Day 26: Foncebadòn a Ponferrada

Well, what a freezing cold night that was. On my mat on the floor in a church in the mountains, there was nothing I could do to get warm. Luckily Jim had left a sleeping pill on the mat for me, so I think it took the edge off somewhat. There was a sense of camaraderie to the morning, someone had brought a kettle we all huddled around and I had a coffee. It was so, so cold as I headed out into dawn at the top of the mountains.

Today was the Cruz de Ferro, an iconic moment in the pilgrimage where you leave a stone to symbolise the leaving behind of the weight you are carrying. I had a small stone Chris and I had collected in London. I walked today with Simone, an Italian archaeologist who was my companion for the Cruz de Ferro at sunrise. He is travelling so light, he wrapped his sleeping bag around his shoulders for warmth. It was bitterly cold, so after leaving the stone and feeling pretty much the same as before, I walked on. I don’t think this was ever a real moment for me but it is an achievement to have made it this far. The walk is beautiful today, cold but as the sun rises the warmth comes. Simone tells me all about the history of Spain, I learn he is very interested in the fall of the Roman Empire in the country. He is a baker by trade, but he has always dreamed of working in a museum as an archaeologist. I said he should be a teacher, as he is very good at explaining things!

We walk through the mountains and down, down down. I slip! My ankles give away and I hit the dusty path, scraping my knee but my trousers are saved! I am thankful for this. The day is tough down about 25km to the beautiful town of Ponferrada. Simone and I celebrate with a beer and he tells me more archaeological things. I am thankful for company but also feeling very weary, I often end up hiking one on one and this can be challenging! We tour the castle and he tells me fascinating clues to help age certain parts of the building. He concludes that the site may have Templar origins, but the main structure is much later.

The town is beautiful but I don’t really explore it. I turn down an offer for dinner so I can spend some time in solitude, maybe the pilgrim gods will forgive me? No dinner for me tonight!

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