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Camino De Santiago

April - June 2022
Walking the Camino Frances, 790km from St. Jean to Santiago. Read more
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  • TravelerCamino De Santiago
    Day 3

    Day Three: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    May 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    So I arrived in Zubiri, well just a bit further on. It’s been a long day but the hike was short. I lost all of my money at some point today! Not sure how that happened. But alas. I’m fine it’s just from the tiredness and more money in hand.

    Today I walked from Roncesvalles in the mountains all the way to Urdeniz.

    I walked with Carlos from Spain. A lovely guy and very nice to talk Spanish again after such a long time. I even remembered the phrase ‘se va a su ola’ which I think was somewhat impressive.

    The day was a lot of downhill, heavy on the knees and I was hungry! But absolutely beautiful and no rain.

    Tonight I am staying at Albergue Aci y Alla en Urdeniz. I’m having the communal dinner tonight, and currently I am sitting with Utra, Marie, Peter-Anne and Danielle by a fire which is at least warm.

    Tomorrow to Pamplona - I have a private room so I can shower and relax in peace!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino De Santiago
    1
    Day 5

    Day Five: Pamplona to Puente de la reina

    May 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Today was a full day. I started the walk this morning at around 7.30 - a little later than usual. But, I slept!! A good night sleep free of snoring. Wonderful! I have to admit I was so tired by the time I checked in to my private room that I bought some sandwich makings and ate them in my room watching tv. Not quite the Camino experience, but I’m at peace with it.

    The day started with leaving Pamplona, moving further away from the city towards the countryside. Cars and roads give away to flowers and fields. I ran into Becky who I had met on the flight, and she was with a big group of people. There was Nico the American from I don’t know where. He was a little standoffish (sorry Nico!), but there was also Jim the retired construction manager from San Francisco. Hodges, the traveller who had introduced me to poles in SJPDP. He was lovely. Becky is from the isle of white, and was very welcoming when I asked if I could join them!

    The first part of the walk was slowly meandering up towards the Alto de Perdon, it was steep but we had all stopped in Ciruz Menor for coffee so I felt prepared. I ended up walking mainly with hodges who told me my walking poles were set up wrong! But he helped me learn how to tie my shoes properly for the descent and I am so grateful for any knowledge that is pole related as I feel like Bambi.

    By the top of the summit everyone was stopping to take photos and I felt it was the right time to keep going. I surprised myself by how fast I could get up the hill. Once at the top I ran into Carlos who had climbed the summit with me on day one. And then I walked mostly by myself.

    I did feel slightly anxious at this point. Having been around so many groups today, I felt that walking alone I was somehow missing this experience, I have been a little like a vagrant moving from one group to another.

    I walked in this feeling for another 10k, but it passed as I reminded myself this walk is for me and no one else. I then met Nicolas, an Italian who wants to move to London. We walked with Becky’s group for a while and then they wanted to stop for another coffee - so we kept on. I mentioned that I wanted to do a small detour. He agreed to come with me and we found our way to the chapel at Eustani. We shared a sandwich I had brought and he told me about his outlook on life, we shared much of this and so we continued on together. We met Amy (from the first photo) and Merle who had walked the Camino before. He said food and water always a good option to pack, so I felt less bad about all of the trail mix and fruit that added another 6kg to my pack!

    In the end I walked over 27k today. I’m now at an albergue enjoying a beer and listening to the trees and the radio.

    All is good.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino De Santiago
    Day 6

    Day Six: Puente de La Reina to Estella

    May 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I started the day with Nicolas at the Albergue Jaqkue. I slept quite well despite the lady above me who again snored through the night! I think I’m getting used to it now. I was up and out by around 7, and headed into town alone.

    The town of Puente de la Reina was absolutely beautiful. I stopped to have a coffee with Carlos from day one and another Carlos from Villalba near Madrid. He told me they made the best bread there in the whole of Spain. The other Carlos agrees to disagree!

    I walk on and walk alone, through vineyards and almond trees. There are fields on either side and there is grass swaying in the wind. Poppies and rapeseed, olive trees and grapes. The sun is shining and I am not feeling too tired.

    I walk through in this sun through to a town where I stop with Carlos and Carlos. I learn that Carlos is 59 and is retired, but runs a meditation school where he lives. He gives me some of his dried figs, Carlos 1 gives me some nuts. He tells me that there is no rush and to enjoy the day, he shows me a meditation.

    We go on walking until I meet with Alta from the second hostel. She is a South African who also works in software design. We walk together alongside Jim who is a thru-hiker from Texas. His knee is very bad, so I slow my pace to walk with him a while. I learn that he is a tech consultant, who worked with dell for 20 years. I try to keep an open mind as he explains how he voted for trump - but we end up finding common ground. ‘many of the worlds problems would be solved if people would just talk to each other’ he said, and he told me about the relationship with his daughter. He also said he would give everything in the world for an extra hour with his dad.

    I left him and Alta in Estella, my final destination for the day. It is a beautiful town, old and with chapels and churches lining the tiny streets. I wander around alone for the rest of the day. Pay for some laundry, and make plans for dinner with Alta and with Amy and Rochelle (who I will find out more about tonight!)

    I’m tired and feeling many emotions - anxious and lonely at times, calm and relaxed at others. Trying to let go of control is hard!

    Tomorrow is another day :)    Read more

  • TravelerCamino De Santiago
    Day 7

    Day Seven: Estella a Los Arcos

    May 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    I can barely remember the start of the day today! That feels very crazy to me, such full days of movement and experiencing.

    I had the best night sleep in Estella, in my little hostel pod. Shout out to the hostel Agora because I really did sleep free of worry!

    I started the day at 6.30 without setting an alarm, so I just went with my body clock. I walked out with Amy who was struggling with her feet a little bit. I walked with her to the local panaderia, but then stopped to grab a coffee and a baguette for the road. In the bar I met a man called Xavi who was also grabbing a coffee. I learned that he was Spanish also, living in Barcelona. He helped me navigate out of the city - he was a little anxious and jumpy. He mentioned to me that he was gay, I think he felt he needed to tell me as I was a woman walking alone! I felt grateful for his consideration. He got a little lost, and ended up walking out the wrong direction together. We corrected ourselves eventually! And then on we went to Los Arcos. He said he would leave me to walk my way - so we parted ways. I saw him again as I reached Los Arcos - but perhaps never again! Xavi, if you are ever in London I will certainly show you around the west end! Everyone is welcome in London.

    The day was spent alone again, but I really have come to enjoy this. I walked though fields and they were so beautiful. It actually was a little emotional! I stopped for a coffee but then walked quite fast through the rest of the day.

    I arrived to a small, rural town of Los Arcos around 12. I’m in a very colourful hostel tonight - not quite the good nights sleep anticipated but, still good I think! We will see. I showered, washed some things and went out to explore. I had a beer with Javier who told me to book as far ahead as I could for Sarria. I then added myself onto dinner with a group from my hostel room! I had a salad and a little bowl of broth and sangria!

    I spend the days osciallting between feeling happy and sad - this is pretty normal for me! Thank you to Chris who is always there for support and for a call when I am feeling lonely. It’s been hard sometimes and my body is certainly feeling it today.

    Tomorrow is a day of 28km - a big day into a large town called Logrono.

    Signing off for now! Bed for me.    Read more

  • TravelerCamino De Santiago
    Day 8

    Day Eight: Los Arcos a Logrono

    May 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    So, the day really started at 5.00 - there was a choir of snores throughout the night. I really am so surprised people can snore so intensely, I was glad to get out into the fresh air.

    I went out for dinner yesterday with a small group from the hostel. By the time I got up, most of them had already started the day. Ouch, did my body hurt today. I felt a twinge in my hip all the way down to my right foot as I scrambled out of the top bunk. I now understand why they say sorry when there are only top bunks left!

    A chorus of snores became a chorus of birds as I left at dawn this morning, making my way 6km to the first town. This is my favourite time of the day, and I resolve to try and leave early so I can enjoy it the most. Maybe this is easier said than done?

    Coffee number one and keep going. Another 10k to a second town called Viana. I see a lot of my fellow pilgrims so I stop for coffee 2. My pace is faster than most, so I stride on into the heat of the day.

    The final 10k I walk alone. I’m in La Rioja now and there are fields of grapes on either side. The landscape has flattened out, but the roads are hardened clay and they are tough on my feet!

    Walking alone into the city of Logrono I pass many pilgrims, and I arrive at the outskirts of town around 1. I covered 27km today. I arrive tired and feeling introverted. I set myself up in the hostel with the usual shower and laundry. I eat a sandwich of chorizo and bread in the patio. I venture in to the town.

    Logrono is a metropolitan centre, but very historic. I wander around the plaza central and visit the gilded cathedral. It is very busy everywhere, there are people ‘paseando’. It is still too early for me to find a bookstore, which was my aim. Things here close for hours over lunch time. Even if it is 4!

    There is street art everywhere. It’s so beautiful mixed in with the old buildings. After about an hour or so of walking around I find a tired Hodges, and his pilgrim family, they have struggled to find somewhere to sleep and they are on the floor in the cathedral! I make plans to meet them for dinner at the famous Calle Laurel.

    I then run into Carlos. It is his last day on the Camino, so we make plans too. I am sad that he will be ending the journey there, I will likely not see him again! A strange feeling when you have shared the journey so far.

    I am grateful for a cold beer and for some company in the form of Hodges and Becky and Nico (much nicer today!) and Lorenzo - who has found a pintxo bar with a famous garlic mushroom.

    We enjoy a beer, and then a famous Rioja wine and some Manchego cheese. The streets are popping with people! There are parties everywhere. The waiter mentions that this is an average Saturday night. It reminds me of London. I part ways with Becky and her crew to meet Carlos and Carlos at another bar. They show me two new tapas, and we share some more wine! It is now so busy on the narrow street you have to push past people to get though. I eat a pigs ear tapa, on a little bun. And more Rioja! I say goodbye to Carlos and he jokes that I owe him a beer. Come visit me in Madrid he says, and we part ways.

    A little hazy I find my way back to the Albergue. I have walked 50,000 steps my watch tells me.

    Tomorrow I have another 28k to go!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino De Santiago
    Day 9

    Day Nine: Logrono a Najera

    May 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Pain pain pain everywhere. I wince as I roll out of bed. My feet once planted on the floor almost buckle beneath me, it takes me by surprise.

    I walk to the bathroom and brush my teeth, there are still many sleeping pilgrims in the room. It is 6.30. Did my trousers get looser in the wash? I notice bruises on my hips and collarbones. My cheeks are windburned and my hair is frazzled. Today I feel like a pilgrim.

    I attempt to get my things together quietly, and I’m out by 7. A little foggy from the wine, and hungry. Nothing open until the next town, and that is in 10k. I make a start.

    The town is still recovering from Saturday night, groups of young men loiter around corners and couples sway together in the morning light. I feel like an intruder, and I keep walking to leave the city behind me. Today, nothing feels easy. My pace is slower, my legs are sore. My hips are burning.

    An hour in and I ask a man how far to the next town, he shares half an orange with me - and says there is a climb. So I climb! Everything feels wrong today. I plug in some music to keep my spirits up.

    After I reach the first town salvation comes in the form of two brief cafe con leche’s. I worry if I stop for too long, I may not start again. I’ve done 13k so far.

    Then comes the wine vineyards of the Rioja, and the heat of the day. I pay for a late start with hot sun rays and hard baked clay underfoot. A sharp pain has developed on my right foot, and my foot crises up. I develop a slight hobble. I keep going in the heat and through the pain. I just have to get to Najera.

    I arrive and I hobble to the hostel. It is lovely here, a bubbling stream right in front of my room. I call. Chris and he tells me I sound tired! I am grateful to hear his voice!

    I wander around in search of ibuprofen gel or something for my foot, I can now not stretch it. Many hobbling pilgrims in Najera today. Of course it is Sunday so I am out of luck. I am given some soothing gel by the receptionist without saying a word.

    As for now I’m reclined with my foot up. Maybe a solo dinner at a nearby meson? Or perhaps just sleep for me!    Read more

  • TravelerCamino De Santiago
    1
    Day 10

    Day 10: Najera a Santo Domingo

    May 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Well, actually Santo Domingo de la Calzada…but who is really checking?

    Day 10 starts with a sore throat. But feet are feeling a lot better, which is good. I also managed to sleep pretty well considering, but the throat is not ideal. I’m out of the albergue by 7.00. Yesterday Becky and her pilgrim family made some dinner and I joined them for pasta and vegetables! I miss vegetables. Even though the food is delicious I am not sure I am getting enough vitamins, hence the sore throat.

    The day today felt much like other days, walking alone, warm midday sun. I walked for the first 5k with David. A lovely Italian man who shared his story and his dreams of finding a little plot of land somewhere to grow vegetables. After a while I left and kept going on into the day. Another hot day and more baked clay beneath my feet. My foot starts to ache again.

    Much of the day passes without much event, and arrive at my destination at just after midday. The town is spread out around a central cathedral, with a story about a chicken at its heart.

    A devout German couple was making the pilgrimage to Santiago with their eighteen-year-old son. When they reached Santo Domingo, a local girl took a liking to the young German, who, being a good Christian, did not respond to her advances.

    Hurt and angry, she put a silver cup into his bag and accused him of theft. The town believed her and hung the innocent boy. His parents, although they were sad, went on to Santiago, where they prayed for their son. On their return trip, they again stopped in Santo Domingo, this time to visit their son’s body. To their surprise, he was still alive, and still hanging from his rope.

    The sheriff was just sitting down to a hearty poultry dinner, and laughed in their faces. “That boy is no more alive than these chickens on my plate,” he said.

    The roasted birds sprouted back their feathers and beaks, got up, and started walking around the dinner table. Properly chastened, the sheriff rushed to the gallows and released the young German, who was pardoned and allowed to go home.

    The story spread, lending credibility to the Santiago pilgrimage and drawing spiritual tourists to Santo Domingo itself, which petitioned the pope to allow them to display two birds, a hen and a rooster, inside the church as a symbol of the miracle.

    As I walked around the church, I spotted the live hens and the cockerel. As I approached them, they squawked. And this is apparently good luck!

    I sat for a while and had a beer, read the guide for tomorrow and bought some food.

    The day ends with me feeling slightly unwell, contemplating going for dinner or just sitting in the dark hostel room.

    Anyway, till tomorrow!    Read more

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