Day 28: Villafranca a O’Cebreiro

The mother of all ascents, as my guide book mentioned, was in fact not an over exaggeration as I had thought. What a day today. I left again later than usual as I struggle to get up at 5.30 these days. I get ready and head into the chilly mountain air, and make it about 1km before stopping for coffee. There are 3 different routes today, and I am headed to O’Cebreiro so need to cover 28km and a really steep ascent at the end to climb over 1000m in less than 1km.

While I enjoy my coffee someone mentions to me I’ve missed the turning for the mountain pass alternative route. I say that I will return to do it, as the main road apparently passes by the road for most of the day. This ended up being a great but extremely challenging day, as the mountain pass took me up 950m and back down again without making much headway in terms of distance. But, the pass was so beautiful. I listened to birds and some music and made my way through the trees and over the stones, thankful for a natural path and a break from walking by roads. When at the top, I stop at a beautiful town where there is a welcoming cafe. I stop there for an hour, very unlike me, but have a coffee and locally made chestnut cake and chestnut liqueur on the house.

I meet pilgrims and watch them go, and i know most of the people by now. I even meet Pien, from the Netherlands, and we share a hug in the knowledge we might not see each other again.

When I finally do leave, the day is in full swing and with that comes the heat. With most of the walk to go and a notorious climb at the end, I do not welcome the heatwave Spain is experiencing at the moment. I walk on.

The walk by the N1, and don’t spot many pilgrims. I figure I am behind. I keep walking through the sun and don’t stop. Applying as much sunscreen as I can. Somehow I make it to Las Herrerias, the town at the base of the mountain. It is 1.30 in the afternoon, and I drink some water and eat my sandwich to give me strength.

And then the climb! My legs tired but capable, the heat suffocating. Climbing in the blaring sun is another experience altogether. I pass a few struggling pilgrims and we wave to each other. I keep going and I try to medicate through the experience. Breathe in, breathe out. I make it to the town before and decide to stop for a beer. Here I sit next to a delightful woman in her 60s and her Camino friend, a Dutch woman in her 50s. They show me so much kindness! They fill up my water and give me some trail mix, they give me the strength to carry on.

I make it finally to Galicia, I cross the border in the mountains and continue another km to O’Cebreiro. A beautiful, ancient town set into the hills. Icy coloured stone and green trees, panoramic views of the valley on either side stretching as far as you can see. I check in and the usual ritual of shower, laundry and unpack. I head into town for food, and enjoy some Caldo Gallego.

I decide to attend pilgrims mass, which I have not done before. I am not religious, but I have heard that it is a special ceremony. I accidentally raise my hand in the sermon when the priests mentions English, thinking he was handing out translations. Nope! I end up delivering the Sermon in English for a room full of peasants. The priest brings people from every language, but English has the most to read. Nerve wracking! I abstain from eating the body of Christ, but I do think it is a beautiful ceremony even though I am not religious. I leave feeling slightly odd, but at peace.

I enjoy a wonderful glass of wine in the company of Fabian from the Netherlands and Anna from Germany. We watch the sunset together, over the valley. I feel very content.

A nights sleep is welcome, but not easy to fall asleep. I blame the wine. A short day tomorrow means a relaxed start, and perhaps even breakfast in the valley.Read more