• Scott Paul
  • Scott Paul

Canada Road Trip 2023

Päättymätön seikkailu — Scott Lue lisää
  • Wet, Wet, Wet

    31. heinäkuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    My front tire sluiced through torrents of water streaming over the sidewalk as I cycled like a fiend through the rain storm. There was no pretense at keeping a single inch of my body dry, cars on the road throwing up swales of water, soaking me with each pass by. My runners squelched and my soaking wet tie die shirt felt like a heavy second skin. How had it all come to this?

    Our day began with an energetic cycle on back dirt roads along the scenic Cape Breton coastline, gentle rolls of waves breaking on rocky beaches. Determined to keep those two wheels moving, in the late morning we biked a 27-km stretch of the Celtic Shores Coastal Trail — a repurposed rail line for cyclists in the summer and snowmobilers in the winter.

    So far so good. But it was the decision to bike a short 2 kilometres to Route 19 Brewery that was the fatal mistake. That and leaving the screened windows on our van open.

    As we sat on the microbrewery deck, a few raindrops began to fall. Our waitress jumped up at the first concussive boom of thunder. And then the storm came full on as we sought dry sanctuary in the brewery. The rain poured down from grey skies when we remembered the open windows.

    And so I volunteered to cycle back and return for Coleen with the van. Chivalry may not be dead, but I can assure you it is most definitely wet, wet, wet.
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  • Toe Tapping

    1. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    When was the last time you had lunch featuring live fiddle music? It has been a while for me as well. Today, you would have seen my feet keeping in time with Joe MacIsaac’s boots as he fiddled us through our meal and yummy Warm Gingerbread Cake with Rum Sauce.

    It was as a toe-tapping good time. I think some of these kids are born with a fiddle in their hand which must makes childbirth here on the Island a painful experience indeed.
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  • Boon Docking

    2. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Also known as random camping, think of Boondocking as couch surfing for RVs. It conjures up, romantic notions of parking on some secluded beach, with an unobstructed view of a setting sun, sinking into the ocean, the place to yourself.

    And it’s free. You can’t see it, but my inner Scotsman is doing a jig right now.

    We’ve done our fair share of Boondocking in Walmart parking lots under sodium lights that make us thankful for our eye masks.

    But last night, at Baxters Cove we had the ultimate Boondock. We had the place to ourselves, the sound of the surf lapping against the shore, cattails gently swaying with the breeze.

    Bliss.

    And did I mention it’s free?
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  • Linger Longer

    4. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    It took us over thirty years to return to Prince Edward Island and after a successful coolant tank repair of our van, I want to linger a while on this lovely isle.

    There’s a relaxed and friendly vibe to the place and this was evident at the ceilidh hosted by the Irish Benevolent Society last night in Charlottetown. There was a folksy feel to the venue, like an old community hall, and the musicians and tap dancers filled the room with music, energy, and laughter. At the intermission, biscuits, small sandwiches, cookies and tea were set out … at 9:00 PM. It was quaint and not all contrived.

    The Irish Scots are made up of a song-writing Celtic bodhran drummer, a devil be charmed guitarist, and a virtuoso fiddler. There was a ton of talent on stage. Throw in intermittent tap dance performances by two world class performers and it was a memorable evening.

    I like it here.

    So we may just have to linger.
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  • Anticipation

    6. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    I pen this post in a small Acadien community hall on the south west coast of Prince Edward Island, awaiting la Famille Leblanc to begin performing. There is a pre-concert buzz in the community centre in both official languages.

    A duo of spotlit guitars stand upright on the stage waiting to be strummed; a bodhran drum on the painted black stage nearby. The microphones are silent now, but in five minutes I expect will be switched on and the music will begin.

    The CDs for the three musical acts — a country and western singer, the New Brunswick Acadien family, and an unbalanced PEI fiddler — lay on a side table along with signage for the ubiquitous 50/50 ticket draw.

    This is our third musical performance in as many nights. Last night’s spectacle was in a very modern Summerside theatre hall. It was called Highland Storm which mirrored the day’s weather when the skies darkened and the winds rocked Charlottetown.

    Pedestrians ran for shelter and failed umbrellas brought comic relief to two travellers warm and dry in their van. What’s that German word? Schadenfreude.

    The weather this last week has been inconsistent but not the music. It has been consistently good, delivered with joy, panache and talent.

    Gotta stop now. The music is about to begin.
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  • What Does the Fox Say?

    8. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Red foxes are big here in Prince Edward Island. Millions of dollars were made back in the early 20th century when fox fashion was all the rage in Europe. Overnight, fox breeders became rich, buying fancy cars and building mansions.

    If a fox had followed our vintage van today what would he have said?

    He’d have seen us visiting parabolic sand dunes on the north coast, crossing a pontoon bridge, surrounded by acres of cattails, and eating a sumptuous dinner of PEI mussels, Cajun shrimp salad, and the best damn crab cakes known to man.

    That’s what the fox would say.

    If he knew English of course.
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  • A Bridge Too Far

    9. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We woke to a downpour of rain and rocking-the-van winds in Charlottetown, and news reports of cancelled ferries and restricted traffic across the Confederation Bridge. Did our van fall into the high-sided vehicles prohibited from crossing?

    We would find out.

    As we approached the coast, the skeletal outline of the bridge loomed out of the grey skies, daring us to cross. We passed a few semi trailers parked near the toll bridge and inched forward in the queue of vehicles, drivers flexing their knuckles which would soon be white. The wind roared and the waves lashed against the bridge moorings.

    Not only did they let us through the toll gates, they charged us $50 to head across the Norththumberland Strait — a wild and windy journey of 13 minutes made disconcerting by the fact you can’t see land for most of it.

    Like modern-day sailors, we called out “land ho” when New Brunswick came into view. The wind howled, Scott screamed (not my proudest moment) and Finnegan laughed like a demented clown as his tires made landfall.

    Catastrophe averted.
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  • C’est la Vie

    11. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    Every now and then, a little rain must fall. And today it poured once more in New Brunswick. It forced us to seek out indoor pursuits — first a library and then a small harbour restaurant in Miramichi who were true to their Facebook posting of 1/2 price mussels — ridiculously delicious. Throw in Oysters Rockefeller and crab-stuffed mushrooms and it was a most memorable meal.

    Apparently holiday calories don’t count so the scrumptious lemon blueberry shortcake was not fattening one bit.

    The rain continued to fall, so we drove up the Acadien coast and found our way to a small community hall in Evangeline where a Cajun/creole band from Louisiana had the locals dancing in the aisles. It was a by donation event and we were offered a yummy seafood gumbo as we entered.

    It seems when it rains it opens up culinary doors for us. C’est la vie.
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  • Kid from Acadia

    12. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    For a good chunk of my youth, I lived in the Calgary community of Acadia. Never thought much about the origin of that name but Acadia’s place in Canadian history and culture is significant in the Maritimes.

    In a to-the-victors-go -the-spoils moment, the English expelled the Acadians from New Brunswick, PEI and Nova Scotia when they defeated the French in one of their many wars in the 18th century.

    The Acadians were deported, families being separated— some went into hiding, many landed in Louisiana. But eventually they returned to start over and in the hotbed of Acadien culture, the New Brunswick town of Caraquet, they proudly show off their pride and colours — red, white, blue and a yellow star wherever you go.

    Banners, flags, lighthouses, lobster nets, park benches all showing off their Acadien patriotism. There is real community buy-in much like people decorate their homes for Christmas. Tuesday, August 15th is the Acadian’s big day and we saw the town preparing for an event which will quadruple their population with visitors.

    A tip of the hat to the Acadians— a proud and resilient people, who embrace their history and traditions — including a delicious sugar pie we ate today at the Acadian Historical Village. Almost worth the price of admission.
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  • Reunion Tour

    14. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    As we make our way west, we are returning to some places which were new to us on the way out and are now like old friends on our return trip — familiar and friendly. Today it was Edmunston, New Brunswick, where we accomplished the mundane tasks of laundry, showers, and topping up Finn’s propane earlier in the day.

    The sun, a less than faithful companion this past week, made a glorious late afternoon appearance today, topping up my Prairie-bred spirits. Blue skies … loving them. Sunshine on my shoulders? Like John Denver, I’m loving it. After the past week’s rain, it has been a joyous day — even the task of washing our clothing couldn’t take the shine off the day.
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  • Happiest … when?

    17. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    When are you the happiest? Singing in the shower or perhaps drinking that first coffee of the morning before the day gets hectic?

    For me, I’m happiest on the trail, whether it’s my boots tramping along some pine needle covered trail, or cross-country skis softly whooshing through the snow, or tires rolling on a bike path.

    I blame Coleen of course for this love affair with nature. She recruited me for many a mountain hike during our courtship. Which reminds me to amend my earlier statement. I’m happiest on a trail with my paramour — Coleen.

    Today’s happiness was a 10 kilometre hike in Frontenac Park. Even the occasional rain shower didn’t dampen my spirits.
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  • Who Cut the Cheese?

    19. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    I will remember Newfoundland for its fish and brewis, Nova Scotia for its fiddles, New Brunswick for the mussels, and PEI for their small-hall ceilidhs, and Quebec for ….

    In a word … cheese. Delectable, goat and sheep cheese which we have found at small farms and grocery stores. And today we acquired two more cheeses unexpectedly.

    At today’s Saturday farmers market , we donated to two women raising money for breast cancer. The energetic road warriors are going to Morocco for a desert road rally. As we handed over cash they gave us small packages of cheese from a nearby cheese maker (Bedouin Cheese) who has been enlisted as one of their sponsors. So appropos.

    That made nine cheeses and counting in our small van fridge. Each time we open the door it’s like we’ve stepped into a fromagerie … whiffs of Gruyère, Boursin, Haloumi, and a few mystery cheeses fill the cabin.

    I’m reminded of that old commercial which talked about how to incentivize your adult children to leave home … stop cooking with cheese. Apparently, a lesson Coleen and I never took to heart.
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  • Facing the Grave

    21. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Death seems a little closer in the Maritimes and Quebec. Driving through small towns, cemeteries are always near, sometimes bisected by the main road. Cemeteries out west often seem tucked away — hidden from view.

    There is history here of course, centuries of European settlements which predate Confederation. A corollary of those lived experiences, is there have been centuries of death as well.

    We attended a music festival in Cape Breton which featured local talent, including a choir led by a tall, grey haired, white collared cleric. He spoke of the now dead composer of the song they were about to sing. The songwriter had been contemplating death in the lyrics — or as the preacher put it “facing the grave.”

    Easy to do out this way, as reminders of those who came before never seems more than a stone’s throw away.
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  • Rosie

    22. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Our bank of travel memories is often filled with a remembrance of a perfect sunset, the joy of a mountain summit hike, a seafood meal on an outdoor patio, chilled wine glass of rose at hand.

    On this cross- Canada expedition a canine has managed to inveigle her way into the top 10 list. Rosie did not make a great impression when we first met her in June, passing through Ottawa on our way to the Maritimes. Laura, her master and member of my online writing group, had rescued Rosie from a home where she had been neglected.

    She was excitable and yapping — not so endearing. But before we left the leafy haven Laura calls home, Rosie had won me over. If she had a shirt, that’s where you would find Rosie’s emotions. So happy when been petted and scratched, mournful eyes when she realized we were leaving.

    On our return trip to Ottawa here in August, Rosie greeted us like long lost friends. Tail wagging vigorously back and forth and often looking at Coleen and I beseechingly from under the kitchen table. Hey, remember me she seemed to be saying.

    Yes, Rosie. We’ll be remembering you.
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  • Bonus Time

    25. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Setting out from Lethbridge three months ago, we vowed to give Toronto and the dreaded Highway 401 a wide berth. Note to self. Resolutions are made to be broken.

    When Julilla said she would be arriving at Lester B Pearson airport in August to renew friendships, forged during her undergrad degree in Hamilton, we were delighted — not for the airport’s vicinity to the urban snarl they call Toronto but rather the opportunity for seeing our lovely daughter.

    So this afternoon we travelled from Peterborough to Toronto, first via a toll road, and then onto the dreaded 401, six lanes of seething madness during rush-hour. We abandoned Finnegan at a local Vietnamese restaurant near the terminal and hired an Uber to take us the last leg — perhaps the best money we have spent on this entire trip.

    It was a joy to see Julilla after many months of only hearing her voice on the telephone. Virtual hugs just aren’t enough. So, thanks to Julilla for giving us bonus time on this extended road trip and will see you at Thanksgiving.
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  • Farmers’ Market

    26. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Whenever we can, we search out and attend farmers markets. We’ve had some success, but none like the fantastic Orillia farmers market today.

    It was held outside, and there were 50 or so vendors, selling everything from honey, to fresh corn, to fresh vegetables, and hand painted linen shirts. Wasps crawled over Coronation grapes, while a long-haired guitarist busked for change.

    We are in the heart of cottage country and the produce could not be any fresher or sweeter. The corn here is challenging their Taber rivals.

    It was a quintessential farmers market, and it will be hard to top in the month we have left before returning to our own farmers market in Lethbridge.
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  • I’ll Huff …

    27. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    … and I’ll puff, and I’ll blow your house down. Well the good residents of Owen Sound have nothing to fear. Their brick houses are the best we’ve seen in our travels. Historied buildings one after another on each block. Most of them in fine repair.

    With the Bruce Trail being just a brick’s throw away and a municipal treasure of a park close by I could see myself living here!
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  • Skinny Side of August

    28. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    These golden days of August find us on the Bruce Peninsula. Campers are enjoying the last days of summer as students prepare to go back to school, their parents back to work.

    It has been a wee bit cooler than I expected as days grow shorter, long pants, and sleeves preferred over their shorter counterparts, and there is a pronounced coolness in the morning air.

    The ferries on this trip have been a real delight. Today we crossed from Tobermory to Manitoulin Island by ferry, and it is an opportunity for some downtime, away from the daily regimen of travel. A time to sit and reflect, leaving the driving to someone else.
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  • A Day to Remember

    29. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Bike fences, gum trees, and a random war memorial … it was a hodgepodge of a day here on Manitoulin Island. We have returned to rural, the traffic bedlam of Toronto mercifully in the rear view mirror.

    Recently the island has become an artists’ Mecca, according to a local chainsaw carver who we chatted up having stopped to see a sleepy forest spirit carved into an old tree. A couple hours before a long line of painted bikes fenced off an artist’s front lawn in such contrast to the old, rough cut zig zag fencing we first encountered last night.

    I will remember the Cup and Saucer Trail for the views of the Niagara Escarpment at the summit, the pouring rain, but also the “gum trees” — colourful wads of gum thumbed onto two different trees. I’ve seen small locks affixed to chain link fences around the world but the gum trees are a first for me.

    At a rural crossroads where the nearest town was perhaps 20 kilometres away, there was an impressive war monument recognizing the island men who fought and died in 20th century wars. Given the size of Manitoulin Island I was blown away by the size and repair of the memorial. Lest we forget.

    Yes, a day to remember for many reasons.
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  • Great

    30. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We are truly returning home, highways, place names, and roadside trading posts now familiar and anticipated. Today included reprise trips to a propane filling station in Sault St Marie, and a gas station/market near Pancake Bay to replenish our charcuterie larder — smoked trout and maple butter will tantalize our taste buds well into Manitoba.

    Today and for the next few days our road travels will skirt Lake Superior. Beautiful open water that rivals any other lake, ocean or seaway that we’ve seen. It lives up to all the adjectives, including the Tony Tiger moniker of …. Grrreat!

    It’s a word that my father often used. Great. “ That’s just great,” he would say when I told him of Marita’s or Julilla’s progress in school or a piano recital, or a holiday, or the bounty of a garden harvest.

    On travels, one has the time to reflect and analyze one’s past, one’s character and look for clues to how you became you. For all the adversity in his life, my father Bob Paul remained open to acknowledging the grandeur of the world. That there is greatness in the world deserving of recognition. And I think that’s just … great.
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  • See You in September

    31. elokuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    At Pancake Bay this morning we had a delicious breakfast of French toast topped with Quebec maple syrup and Ontario farm fresh nectarines. A scrumptious start to this last day of August.

    Our hike this afternoon was a strenuous one, following a trail that led to an outlook over the watery graveyard of Lake Superior which has claimed many a vessel including the one made famous in the Gordon Lightfoot song of the same name — The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald. A grim reminder that the “gales of November” turn these placid waters into dangerous crossings.

    Tonight we lay our heads down underneath Wawa night skies here in Northern Ontario. Wawa. Still my favourite place name outside the whimsy of Newfoundland.

    With just a few hours left in August, I bid you all adieu, and if the fates are kind will see you in September.

    It’s getting late, so I close now contemplating a pre-sleep shower. Oh, Coleen. Care to conserve some water?
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  • Superiority Complex

    1. syyskuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Many businesses in this part of Ontario claim to be superior, including the adjective in their business name. If challenged they can coyly point to Lake Superior, arguing place name not quality. I mean seriously, Superior Septic? Perhaps their shit really doesn’t stink.

    Our rambles along Lake Superior today included a return to Marathon beach and it’s tumbled rocks, a German POW camp at Neys and a jumble of driftwood tossed up and onto the coast like toothpicks.

    Placid yesterday, the lake this evening showed its tempestuous side, white capped waves crashing into the shore, the surf drowning out the wind at times.

    We have a couple more days with this lake of the highest standard — it may be long enough for me to acquire a complex.
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  • Time Travellers

    3. syyskuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today we gained an hour, crossing into the central standard time zone. Losing time as we traveled to the eastern reaches of Canada we are now recouping those one hour increments (1/2 an hour in Newfoundland) on our return trip.

    A person passing our campsite this evening might think they had stumbled though some time travel portal. A couple hand washing their clothing, a 1986 Westfalia van in the background, a powder blue Coleman cooler on the picnic table — Willie Nelson singing On the Road Again.

    Yup … we’re old school. Taking our time to get back home.
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  • Hello Manitoba

    4. syyskuuta 2023, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We said good night to Ontario and good day to Manitoba, the crossing of the border heralded by a polar bear billboard. The smoke and haze have caught up to us. A grocery clerk in Dryden blamed it on forest fires in Alberta and BC.

    Our highlights today included:

    * Husky the Muskie in Kenora, a supersized fish statue
    * buying charcuterie treats at the Keewatin Store
    * free camping at Brereton Lake in Whiteshell Provincial Park (thanks Donna)

    We lay our heads beneath clear Prairie skies … wait do I hear some thunder in the distance?
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