Day 1: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port

We arrived in picturesque Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port this afternoon, after taking a 3-hour train ride from Madrid to Pamplona, followed by a twisty 90-minute taxi ride through the mountains—in a Tesla, no less.

We shared the taxi with a pilgrim from Seattle, Washington, who generously and unexpectedly covered the full cost of the ride.

With a little time to kill before we could check in to Gite Makila, we went in search of something to eat. We’d missed the window for a full lunch but were able to get some tasty sliced meats and cheeses nearby.

After lunch, we dropped our packs off at our lodging and walked up a series of steep, stone steps to the Citadel to admire a lovely view of the town with the Pyrenees looming in the background.

Returning to our hostal we met a friendly woman from Boston and made plans to go out for dinner as soon as the restaurants re-opened. Following a recommendation from our hospitalero, we went to Le Relais de la Nive at 7 p.m.. The place was almost empty when we got there, but soon packed with a mostly local crowd.

Tomorrow we start making our way up the mountains. We’ll spend the night at Refuge Orisson, and then continue on the next day to Roncesvalles. This is the hardest stretch of El Camino Frances, and we’re closely watching the weather given the potential for some severe storms on Monday.

More about that next time!Read more