🗻🇯🇵 Day 10 🇯🇵🗻

40 miles / 4,600 ft / 4:21

Yuki and Masa loaded us up with breakfast, snacks, and a heartfelt farewell. Within two minutes of rolling out, the skies opened and we were pedaling into rain. An older Japanese man looked up from the vending machine where he was retrieving his can of morning coffee and, clearly wanting to practice his English, smiled and called out, “Good morning!” It lifted our spirits before the climbing began.

The road pitched up quickly after our stretch riding along the 釜無川 (Kamanashi-gawa – Kamanashi River) — five miles, some grades hitting 18%. Just as our legs burned the hardest, we came to a road closed sign. What to do? Lisa suggested we ask, and while debating, we pulled out one of Masa’s magical gifts: a まんじゅう (manjū – sweet bean-filled treat). Its 餡子 (anko – sweet bean paste) cheered our spirits as we stood in the rain. Almost on cue, the construction crew appeared. With a bit of Japanese charm, Jim asked if we might pass. Smiles, nods, and a wave later — we were through. Otherwise, we would have faced a brutal detour down one side of the mountain and up the other.

The descent that followed was treacherous — moss-slick pavement, wet leaves, and falling rocks. But eventually we reached a smoother highway and, to our delight, a small roadside rest stop. At first, we thought only of vending-machine coffee. But the smell of hot udon and curry drew us inside, where older women in aprons served us steaming 天ぷらうどん (tempura udon – udon noodles with tempura). For just ¥600 (about $4), we enjoyed hearty noodles, crunchy lightly battered vegetables, and the kindness of the cooks. Alongside came free ぶどう (budō – grapes), an extra couple for us since we were sharing the bowl of soup, and 冷たい麦茶 (tsumetai mugicha – cold barley tea).

When we returned our trays, we fumbled through broken Japanese: 「ありがとう！」 (arigatō – “thank you”) and 「気をつけて！」 (ki o tsukete – “be careful”), they said in return, bowing. As we packed our 自転車 (jitensha – bicycles), one cook hurried out the back, dug through the passenger side of her car, and reappeared with warm 抹茶もち (matcha mochi – green tea rice cakes) filled with 餡子 (anko – sweet bean paste). A parting gift that warmed us as much as the soup had.

Soon another climb delivered us to the longest tunnel of our trip so far — 2.6 km (1.6 miles). Cars roared by, but respectfully, and we glided through. Emerging on the far side felt like stepping into another world: the region of the Fuji Five Lakes (富士五湖 Fuji Goko). From there, a long descent swept us into the basin of Lake Kawaguchiko (河口湖 Kawaguchiko). Lisa savored her gift of mochi by the shore as we dipped our hands into the warm water, Mount Fuji hidden in mist above us. We lingered for photos of the lake, coffee, and the slow rhythm of riding around the touristy area before pushing toward our evening goal: Lake Yamanakako (山中湖 Yamanakako).

Just before our final miles, we stopped at an Ogino grocery store. As we packed up, a friendly man approached — a Japanese local now living in Melbourne. Curious about our 自転車 (jitensha – bicycles) and journey, he chatted with us about Australia and Japan. The storm clouds rolling across the lake cut the conversation short, and we pushed on quickly. With only a mile to go, the rain began falling on the far side of the lake, sweeping toward us. We reached our guesthouse just in time.

Our inn was quiet, with a 10 tatami-mat room (畳 tatami), a wood-floored nook overlooking the lake, and a shared bath and toilet — though we saw no other guests. We peeled off our soggy cycling clothes and slipped into fresh 浴衣 (yukata – traditional inn robes), provided at Japanese guesthouses. Dry, comfortable, and slightly ridiculous-looking on our bike-weary bodies, we laughed at ourselves lounging around like we’d been born to it. From our “balcony,” we watched the storm lash the lake while sipping local beers and munching snacks.

Later we visited the private little 温泉 (onsen – hot spring bath), ate dinner, tended to our chains and 自転車 (jitensha – bicycles), and finished the evening with a miniature Mount Fuji cake — a sweet reminder of where we’d arrived. As we settled in, a small earthquake (震度2.8 shindo 2.8 – magnitude 2.8) rattled the tatami beneath us. Should we worry? Perhaps not. Perhaps we should just be grateful it was only that. Tomorrow, Fuji waits in clearer skies — though the weather forecast does not look good. We reminisced about the bad luck we had with rain in France last year, and laughed at the familiar pattern.Baca selengkapnya