🎌🗾 Day 24 🗾🎌

41 miles / 2,592 ft. / 4:05

C Spoke: 255 miles
B Spoke: 216 miles
A Spoke: 285 miles

Our C Spoke was completed by reaching Kakeru’s house in 金沢 (Kanazawa) at about 4:45 p.m.

Knowing we had an easier day ahead without a massive climb, and thinking it might feel mostly downhill toward the 日本海 (Nihonkai – Sea of Japan), we allowed ourselves a lazy morning. We lingered at the guesthouse until about 10 a.m., chatting more with Arnaud, then finally rolled out into the cool air under bright sunshine, with deep blue skies and dramatic white clouds.

We first circled the small lake near our guesthouse, then turned back into the lower mountains toward Kanazawa. The roads were quiet, shaded in places, and we found ourselves enjoying the slower pace. Around noon we grabbed some おにぎり (onigiri – rice balls), chips, and cold drinks and found a shady park for a picnic. A group of seniors were out playing パークゴルフ (pāku gorufu – park golf), which seems to be part miniature golf, part croquet, and fully a Japanese favorite among retirees. Their friendly greetings reminded us again of how kindness is woven into daily life here.

After lunch, we headed back into the mountains for one more crime to Kakeru’s house. Once we neared the top, we saw the familiar “no entry, road closed” signs. We were hopeful our luck would continue and the construction crew would let us pass. Noting the mud on their shoes, it didn’t seem likely. This time we had to turn back due to a mud slide and a void where the road once was. Down the hill and then back up the descent we enjoyed earlier to find our way around and back to our route.

Although Kakeru’s home was only about 5–10 miles away at that point, I routed us deeper into town to follow the 犀川 (Saigawa – Sai River) down toward the coast. The cycling path was smooth and peaceful, lined with reeds and willows, and before long we reached the seaside.

Standing at the shore of the Sea of Japan, we slipped off our shoes and dipped our feet in the cool waves. The coastline here is striking—Kanazawa faces a stretch of the sea that has long supported fishing communities and trade with Korea and China. Only a handful of people were walking the beach, and for a while it felt like we had the vast ocean entirely to ourselves. Of course, we couldn’t resist staging some ridiculous jumping photos. We’re slowly becoming professionals at finding just the right angle to make it look like we’re launching sky-high.

On the way to Kakeru’s, we made a few stops for groceries, so by the time we rolled into his driveway it was closer to 5 p.m. than planned. Still, it was a relaxed, meandering day, the kind where the journey mattered more than the destination.

That evening, Kakeru and I went out to pick up fresh fish for dinner. Kanazawa is famous throughout Japan for its seafood, thanks to the nutrient-rich waters of the Sea of Japan and the bustling 近江町市場 (Ōmichō Ichiba – Omicho Market), which has been the city’s “kitchen” for centuries. Kakeru piled our basket with a variety of sashimi delights: 鰈 (karei – flounder), 鰹 (katsuo – bonito), 鮪 (maguro – tuna), 鮭 (sake – salmon), and 蛸 (tako – octopus). He also grabbed sea cucumber (なまこ – namako) and 塩辛 (shiokara – fermented squid in its own salty sauce). Having tried shiokara on past trips, I politely passed this time, knowing my palate isn’t cut out for it. Lisa, braver than me, gave both a try, but admitted afterward that they were not her favorites.

Sashimi (刺身) has deep cultural roots in Japan, dating back hundreds of years as a way to appreciate the natural flavors of the sea. The practice emphasizes freshness, simplicity, and respect for the ingredients, and sharing a sashimi meal together feels as much about connection as it does about food. Our spread also included homemade steaming bowls of 味噌汁 (miso shiru – miso soup), 枝豆 (edamame – soybeans), crisp pickles, and warm rice. It was simple, but in that simplicity came richness, and it felt like a celebration of friendship as much as dinner.

By 9 p.m. we were ready for sleep. The C Spoke had come to an end, and while it felt a little bittersweet, there was comfort in reconnecting with Kakeru and his family. The journey had carried us from the mountains to the sea, and in a few days, the D Spoke back to Yamanashi will begin.Read more