Day 26

Day 26: Rest Day #2 in 金沢 (Kanazawa)

Today was our second rest day in a row, and we had a casual plan of visiting the local bike shop, stopping at a 百円ショップ (hyaku en shoppu – 100 yen store), walking through the fish market, and finally making it to the temple we had missed on our earlier cycling detour.

Lisa and I started off by strolling down to the local bike shop while Kakeru was still getting ready. On the way, we took on the surprisingly fun challenge of buying eight postage stamps at the convenience store. It’s amazing how small tasks like this become little adventures when you need to use Japanese. I managed to say, 「切手を八枚ください」(kitte o hachi mai kudasai – I would like 8 postage stamps please). With a mix of Japanese, hand gestures, and big smiles, the transaction was a success.

The bike shop was fun to look around, but we didn’t really need much. One of the great things about traveling by 自転車 (jitensha – bicycle) is that you can’t carry too many souvenirs, which became our mantra again later at the ¥100 store.

Our first big stop of the day was the ¥100 store inside the Apita department store. 百円ショップ are beloved in Japan, offering everything from kitchen gadgets to stationery, cleaning supplies, snacks, and quirky little items you didn’t know you needed until you saw them. They’re sort of like a treasure hunt—practical, affordable, and fun. While browsing, we spotted a perfect pair of shoes for Lisa to replace her worn-out walking shoes. Her feet let out a silent sigh of relief after so many miles on the old ones.

On the way out of Apita, we couldn’t resist stopping at a little stand for たこ焼き (takoyaki – octopus dough balls). Fresh off the griddle, the golden spheres were piping hot, topped with a drizzle of savory sauce, a sprinkle of seaweed, and dancing flakes of bonito. We juggled them carefully, trying not to burn our tongues, and the soft batter and chewy bits of octopus were a bit more to my liking than the first time when I tried them 25 years ago.

From there, we made our way to the famous 近江町市場 (Ōmichō Ichiba – Ōmichō Market), known as “Kanazawa’s Kitchen” since the Edo period. The market was buzzing with tourists and locals alike, stalls overflowing with every imaginable sea creature: gleaming crabs stacked in baskets, squid lined up in rows, octopus tentacles coiled like sculptures, shellfish piled high, and plenty of fish we couldn’t even name. Many people were sampling delicacies right at the stalls, while others lined up at small food counters for fresh sushi or grilled meat skewers. We enjoyed the sights and smells, but decided to slip away to a quieter sushi shop nearby for lunch.

Kanazawa is famous for のどぐろ (nodoguro – blackthroat seaperch), and we made sure to try it among Kakeru’s sushi choices for us. Tender, rich, and slightly sweet, it was definitely a highlight. Along with a comforting bowl of 味噌汁 (miso shiru – miso soup), it made for a satisfying meal.

Our next stop was 大乗寺 (Daijō-ji), a serene Zen temple of the 曹洞宗 (Sōtōshū – Sōtō school of Zen Buddhism). Founded in the 17th century, it has long served as a training monastery for monks, emphasizing meditation and discipline. The temple grounds were peaceful, shaded by tall cedars, and carried a sense of timelessness. For travelers in Japan, it’s helpful to remember that 神社 (jinja – shrines) are Shintō, dedicated to kami (spirits), while 寺 (tera – temples) are Buddhist, places of meditation, prayer, and ancestral remembrance.

After exploring the temple, we wandered through 大乗寺丘陵公園 (Daijōji Kyūryō Kōen – Daijoji Hill Park), a beautiful green space with views stretching over Kanazawa. In winter, families flock here with sleds, turning its gentle hills into snowy playgrounds. On clear days, the park opens westward toward the 日本海 (Nihonkai – Sea of Japan), and beyond those waters lies the Korean Peninsula—a reminder of how close Japan is to its neighbors across the sea.

Back at the house, we sat together around the table, enjoying the delicious meal as we watched the final matches of the 大相撲 (ōzumō – sumo tournament). By about 7:15 p.m., Akinari and Seria burst through the door, still buzzing with excitement from their weekend in 東京 (Tōkyō). They proudly presented us with omiyage—traditional Japanese crackers in a beautifully decorated sumo-themed box. Their thoughtfulness warmed our hearts.

Later, we replayed some of the sumo bouts with Akinari scanning the crowd in hopes of spotting himself, his sister, and their grandparents. No luck this time, but plenty of fun looking.

With rain in the forecast and a long ride of nearly 70 miles (113 km) ahead of us tomorrow, we called it an early night.

Kanazawa, whose name means “Marsh of Gold” from an old legend about a farmer finding flakes of gold while digging potatoes, is home to just under half a million people. Historically, the city thrived as a castle town under the powerful Maeda clan and today is known for its traditional crafts, especially 金箔 (kinpaku – gold leaf), which still supports a major part of the local economy.

Rest days like these remind us that cycling is only part of the journey. The deeper joy comes from relaxing with family, reconnecting with an old friend from 25 years ago, and catching a glimpse of everyday Japanese life. Evenings gathered around the dining room table, sharing a meal, laughing at TV shows, or watching the youngest quietly play with his new sumo dolls, become as meaningful as any miles on the road.Read more