🎌🌰 Day 30 🌰🎌

37 miles / 3,830 ft. / 3:58

Knowing that we only had a short ride ahead (about 40 miles, with a few climbs to keep us honest), we allowed ourselves to enjoy a slow morning. Out of our hotel window we could see a 城 (shiro – castle), a 神社 (jinja – shrine), and the 若い太陽の塔 (Wakai Taiyō-no-tō – Tower of the Young Sun), a strikingly modern tower with bold lines and a futuristic design. The real highlight of the morning, though, was a FaceTime call with Sebastian and MK—hearing their voices and seeing their smiles gave us an extra boost for the day.

Breakfast provided with our stay was 和食 (washoku – Japanese-style meal), complete with grilled fish, rice, miso soup, and pickles, though there were also a few Western touches like cereal, yogurt, toast, and jam. Afterward we lingered over a couple cups of コーヒー (kōhī – coffee) and a slice of rolled cake before heading back to the room to pack up and roll onward.

The weather was pleasant, cool enough to ride comfortably but with sunshine filtering through the hills. As we ascended one of the steeper climbs, we passed through 神道の丘公園 (Jindō-no-oka Kōen – Jindō Hill Park), where a sign told us about the 水仙プロジェクト (suisen purojekuto – daffodil project). This local effort has planted thousands of daffodils on the hillsides so that every spring, the slopes burst into yellow bloom. It was a beautiful thought that flowers of remembrance and hope would welcome future visitors up the same climb.

At the peak of the climb, we found a massive playground. We zipped down the ジップライン (jippu rain – zip line), scrambled up to the lookout tower, and raced each other down the roller slides. All around were bells that visitors (although, we were the only ones there) could ring, their soft tones drifting across the hills and valleys.

Nearby stood the 杉原千畝 (Sugihara Chiune) Memorial, three pyramidal structures each holding a bell—one for charity, one for spirit, and one for courage. Sugihara, a native of Gifu, was a Japanese diplomat stationed in Lithuania during World War II. Against orders, he issued thousands of transit visas that allowed Jewish refugees to escape Nazi persecution, saving as many as 6,000 lives. Today he is often called the “Japanese Schindler.” As we stood there, looking out over the valley we had just ridden through, we rang the bells quietly. It was a moment that blended the beauty of the land with the courage of a man who chose kindness in the face of immense risk.

Our breakfast had been hearty enough that we skipped lunch, instead saving our energy for the viewpoint we had heard about. There, we unwrapped our leftover 枝豆 (edamame – green soybeans) and finished off a half-eaten bag of chips while gazing out over 棚田 (tanada – terraced rice fields). The patchwork of approaching autumn colored paddies stepping down the hillside felt like a living mosaic, each terrace offering a unique earth tone color. The valley stretched far below us, framed by mountains rising in gentle waves, their ridgelines soft in the haze. It was one of those moments when Japan shows her timeless side: human work and natural beauty woven together over centuries.

From there came one a thrilling descent through the terraced fields. A narrow decent that every cyclist dreams of, winding and fast but still just safe enough to let gravity do its work. At the bottom, the road delivered us right into our overnight town: 恵那市 (Ena-shi – Ena City).

Ena is a small but historic town in 岐阜県 (Gifu-ken – Gifu Prefecture), once a key post town on the 中山道 (Nakasendō – the old travel route connecting Kyoto and Edo). Surrounded by mountains and rivers, Ena is known for its crisp air, hiking trails, and seasonal foods like 栗 (kuri – chestnuts) and 柿 (kaki – persimmons). Chestnuts are especially famous here, made into sweets such as 栗きんとん (kurikinton – chestnut paste). As we rolled through, we noticed groves of chestnut trees ready for autumn harvest. The chestnuts, some still in their porcupine-like shell, were almost as big as the Iowa hedge balls.

Before checking into our lodging, we stopped at the grocery store next door for a few snacks and to scout out what we might cook later. Shopping in the mountains was an adventure in itself—the shelves had fewer options compared to what we’re used to in bigger cities or back in the U.S., but that made it fun, like a treasure hunt.

Our home for the next two nights is a small guest house called Hanioheto, tucked quietly into Ena. After dropping our bags, we enjoyed a snack together, showered, and then went back to the store to gather ingredients for dinner. Tonight’s menu: カレーライスヌードル (karē raisu nōdoru – curry rice noodles) with ham and scrambled egg, and Gyoza. Cucumber with salt and soy sauce for an appetizer. While Lisa navigated the kitchen and prepared dinner, I spent about an hour and fifteen minutes in a meeting with the Japanese TV crew from 「なぜ日本に？」(Naze Nihon ni? – Why Did You Come to Japan?). We were working to wrap up the production so the episode would be ready for broadcast in November or December. It felt a little surreal to be deep in conversation about edits and storylines from a quiet mountain guest house, but it made the evening all the more memorable.

The guest house itself has its own story. The owner is originally from Peru; his parents immigrated to Japan when he was seven years old. He has now lived here for more than 30 years, married a Japanese woman, and together they are raising two children—a sweet baby girl only three months old and a lively two-year-old boy. The mix of Peruvian roots and Japanese life gives the house a unique, hippie vibe: warm, welcoming, and alive with laughter. With the energy of children, gentle kindness of two blended cultures , and the cozy atmosphere, it feels more like staying with friends than at a guest house.

Later in the evening we took a short walk to watch the sunset. The sky turned soft pink and gold, and we looked out over rice fields, fruit orchards, and chestnut trees glowing in the fading light. It was the perfect close to the day, reminding us that sometimes the simplest things—quiet walks, home-cooked food, kind people—make the richest memories.

It was a simple day, but it carried all the best ingredients: beautiful views, a little adventure, a touch of history, good food, and the warmth of cozy guesthouse .Read more