Day 33

We started our morning in 飯田 (Iida) with another forecast of rain, which was supposed to ease by 9 AM. So we took our time, enjoying our simple breakfast of banana, yogurt, left over maple bread, rolls, and coffee while finishing up the previous day’s blog post. The guesthouse was warm and quiet. The only other guests were a Japanese family, They were traveling together for a weekend getaway and kindly tried to chat with us again over breakfast. It’s amazing how much can be shared through smiles, gestures, and a mix of broken English and Japanese. Their kindness shone through every word. Before we left, they even brought us some freshly peeled apple slices — a small gesture of generosity that seemed to bridge every cultural gap.

While waiting for the weather to clear, we spent some time chatting with the guesthouse staff member, Tassei, a friendly 26-year-old who had studied tourism but was now brushing up on mathematics, hoping to pass a test to move up in his career. We talked about U.S. sports, Instagram, and YouTube, sharing a few laughs and taking photos together out front before leaving. As we packed up our bikes, he stood in the misty rain, waving goodbye until we were out of sight. It was one of those quiet moments of kindness that stays with you.

As expected, the forecast was a bit off, and the rain didn’t break until closer to 10:30. We lingered over one more cup of coffee, then finally hit the road toward our next stop, about 52 miles away, with roughly 4,000 feet of climbing ahead.

The route followed the edge of the 天竜川 (Tenryū-gawa – Tenryū River), winding through valleys lined with persimmon and chestnut trees glowing orange against the damp gray sky. Eventually, we climbed higher into the mountains, tracing Route 8 northward through another beautiful stretch overlooking the river. The scenery was pure Japan — rolling mist over cedar forests, quiet farmhouses, and rice fields brushed with autumn gold.

At one point, while pedaling uphill, I spotted a tree full of ripe 柿 (kaki – persimmons) and couldn’t resist plucking one. To my surprise, it was perfectly sweet, not bitter. I shared it with Lisa as we rode on, both laughing at how something so small could taste like a victory.

Around mile 30, we rolled into a 7-Eleven (セブンイレブン) for our usual roadside feast: rice balls, a ham and cheese wrap, a few fried cheese puffs, chips, and cold drinks. We found the perfect dry spot for lunch under the wide overhang of an old Honda dealership. It wasn’t glamorous, but after hours of misty riding, it felt like a five-star café.

From there, it was all business — or at least our version of it. We pushed through the last rolling twenty miles, rain coming and going, traffic buzzing around us, but the roads smooth and the miles falling away easily.

We arrived in 岡谷 (Okaya) about forty-five minutes before check-in, but as is so often the case in Japan, the staff was incredibly kind and let us in early. Hot showers never felt better after a damp, cool day in the saddle. The hotel provided all the little comforts that always make us smile — yukata robes, disposable slippers, toothbrushes, razors, and even hairbrushes.

Before dinner, we relaxed in the room with a few snacks: salted cucumber slices, baked sweet potatoes, a handful of mixed nuts, and a couple of cold beverages. Later, we decided to stretch our legs and walked about ten minutes to a nearby restaurant called Everest Dining, an Indian and Nepalese spot that turned out to be fantastic. The curry was rich and flavorful, the rice perfect, and the cheese naan absolutely addictive. It still amazes me that two full dinners, each with a small salad and drink, came to only ¥2,200 — about $14 total, no tax and no tip.

Days like this remind us that even when the weather isn’t perfect, the rhythm of cycling, the kindness of strangers, and the small comforts along the way make every mile worthwhile.Read more