🇯🇵👹Day 45👹🇯🇵

52 miles / 2,215 ft. / 4:15

We woke to sunlight spilling through the windows, painting the mountainside in gold. Our lovely cottage was tucked quietly into the cliffside, overlooking the river below and the rocky bluffs across. Yesterday’s cold rain felt like a distant memory. Today promised warmth, calm skies, and gratitude for another beautiful day in Japan.

Lisa did a bit of work while I dozed a little longer, then she handed me a hot cup of coffee and a chocolate croissant. Oishii! (おいしい – delicious). It was a slow, gentle start, the kind you feel thankful for. We decided to explore the town before heading out, and since we guessed there was a shoe dryer at the nearby laundromat, and to our luck we found the shoe oven, put our shoes in to bake, and wandered off to see the local sights.

We climbed the mysterious “Demon Stairs,” crossed the long suspension bridge swaying gently over the river, and paused at a few statues that seemed to watch silently over the valley. There’s something about small-town Japan that blends myth, nature, and art in a way that feels both ancient and welcoming.

On the way back to reclaim our shoes, we stopped by for our favorite quick breakfast: yogurt, bananas, and a flaky pastry. Simple pleasures always do the trick after a hard day, and we sat in our cottage with our breakfast and enjoyed the mountain view over Kinugawa River quietly taking in the morning.

By midmorning, we had packed up our bags and were back on the road. The sun warmed our backs as we pedaled away from the mountains, their peaks fading slowly behind us. Around lunchtime, we stopped at a small clearing overlooking the valley, a perfect spot to say goodbye to the highlands. Maybe we were reflecting, or maybe just delaying the next climb—it’s always hard to tell.

The rest of the afternoon unfolded like a familiar tune, a mix of rolling climbs and gentle descents through forested roads. The light filtered through the trees, and the scent of cedar and pine filled the air. With a slight tailwind pushing us along, we reached our guesthouse in Daigo, Ibaraki earlier than expected.

Check-in was smooth and welcoming. The staff women smiled warmly and even let us wheel our bicycles right into our room. After a quick load of laundry, we cleaned up and headed out for dinner. Tonight’s meal was tonkatsu (とんかつ – breaded pork cutlet), one of our longtime favorites. It brought back memories of our trip ten years ago with Sebastian—his go-to meal back then.

The little restaurant was alive with laughter, a group of young men in their twenties enjoying food, drinks, and friendship. Watching them reminded us of Sebastian and his friends, and we couldn’t help but smile.

After dinner, we strolled back through the quiet streets under a clear autumn sky. The short walk was just enough to settle full stomachs and full hearts. Back at the guesthouse, we turned out the lights, grateful for another day of sunshine, warmth, and gentle miles.Читать далее