Rocks, Castles, and Batatas Fritas

Day 7: Leiria to Casconha (61 Miles / 5,900 ft.)

After a good night’s sleep, we woke early, ate breakfast, and hit the road. The countryside became rockier around Rabaçal and Penela, with limestone hills, stone walls, and olive trees. Some sections had such large, rough stones that we had to walk our bikes to avoid wrecking our wheels.

We stopped at an old windmill and ate bread, potato chips, and a few other snacks from our panniers.

Later, at Penela Castle, we enjoyed cold Cokes and french fries while talking with a friendly woman who told us about living in Amsterdam and her upcoming move to Angola. She had the same easy friendliness we have found in so many Portuguese people. The 11th-century castle once stood near the frontier between Christian and Muslim territory, helping defend Coimbra during the Reconquista.

With 61 miles and 5,900 feet of climbing, it was another difficult day. We were thankful for the nice weather because rain or strong wind might have made parts of it nearly impossible.

We arrived around 5:00 at Amazônia, a unique place created by a Brazilian family along a Camino de Santiago route. A creek flows beneath the building, visible through glass floors in our room and on the balconies. We cooked dinner in the outdoor kitchen and settled in beside the running water.

A short day planned for tomorrow, but those often catch you off guard!Read more