A Small Village to a University City

Day 15: Vila de Ala to Bragança (60 Miles / 4,390 ft.)

Our final day in Portugal began with a full-service breakfast from Álvaro, Odette, and Mário at Casa de l’ Eigreija. After all their help, cold drinks, conversation, and hospitality, they deserve a big shout-out.

We left a tiny village where sheep wandered through the streets and tractors outnumbered cars. The route carried us across the high plateaus of Trás-os-Montes, repeatedly dropping into deep river valleys before sending us up long, winding climbs, some more than four miles. The roads were quiet, scenic, and really fun to ride.

In Vimioso, we stopped for a Coke, coffee, and a coconut-dusted pastry. Farther down the road, a small café appeared at exactly the right time. My Radler was so cold and refreshing that I immediately ordered another, while Lisa had juice and water.

By afternoon, the landscape began shifting from scattered farms and nearly empty villages toward Bragança, a city being rejuvenated by the Instituto Politécnico de Bragança. Its School of Agriculture fits naturally into this deeply rural region, while international students bring younger energy to the city. Many come from Portuguese-speaking countries, including Cape Verde, which was connected to Portugal until gaining independence through peaceful negotiations in 1975. That shared language and educational connection remains visible here today.

Our hostel is an older residence that Paulo remodeled during COVID. He was clearly proud of what he created, and he should be. It is a wonderful space overlooking Bragança’s medieval citadel. After pizza, groceries, and laundry, we walked up to the castle to watch the sunset.

It feels strange and a little sad knowing this is our final night in Portugal. Tomorrow we cross into Spain, where another Warmshowers host and the next part of the adventure await us. Portugal gave us one final gift: a glowing castle outside our bedroom window.Read more