The Cult (band), the Camino, and a Perfect Day.

Viana do Bolo to Ponferrada (60 miles / 5100 ft.)

Some days are about exploring, and others are simply business on the bike. Yesterday we put our heads down and rode, but in between all that riding was honestly one of the most beautiful days we have ever had on bicycles.

Román had already left for work, but Noelia prepared an awesome breakfast and visited with us before we departed. As usual, the day began with a three-mile climb, but this time we were rewarded with nearly 15 miles of descending, sometimes approaching 45 mph. The temperature was perfect, the sky was clear and everything just seemed to click.

We left the mountains of Galicia’s Ourense province, descended through the Bibei valley and followed the Sil River through Valdeorras. Eventually we crossed into León province and the region of El Bierzo, part of Castilla y León. The mountains slowly opened into a greener and wider river valley as we approached Ponferrada.

We also found ourselves traveling backward along the Camino de Invierno, one of the Camino de Santiago routes. We crossed paths with walkers, followed the familiar shell symbols and passed the beautiful Ponte de Éntoma, an old single-arch slate bridge traditionally linked to Roman times. Lisa and I continued our running joke: “We must be on the Camino de Santiago!” We have been saying it since Lisbon and will probably continue saying it anytime we see a hiker.

Ponferrada felt like a town designed for fans of the rock band, The Cult. Red Templar crosses appeared on businesses and historic buildings throughout the city, while the massive Templar castle dominated the old town. The Knights Templar arrived here in the early 12th century to help protect pilgrims, and even the city’s name comes from an iron-reinforced bridge built across the Sil River for travelers.

Near the castle, we found a place for a cold drink and a snack before checking into our hostel. We felt slightly out of place among the Camino walkers, but everyone was welcoming, and the hostel had secure bicycle parking, a repair area and even a bike wash. That is always a huge relief at the end of a long day.

After showers and laundry, who could resist searching for a kebab? Lisa and I always say you cannot go wrong with pizza, a kebab or Indian food. We both had döner kebabs and french fries, then wandered around town until sunset.

We also came across a rather creepy black-robed statue that looked unsettlingly familiar to American eyes. It represents the Lambrión Chupacandiles, a traditional Nazareno who walks through Ponferrada ringing a bell to announce the coming of Holy Week. The pointed hood is part of a Spanish religious tradition that is centuries older than anything it unfortunately resembles back home.

Around 7:00 p.m., the city suddenly came alive. It was as if someone gave everyone an electric shock and said, “Get out of the house, walk around and have a cigarette!” We joined the evening crowd for a while before returning to the hostel and wrapping up another nearly perfect day.Read more