Sunrise, Shortcuts, and Spanish Tortilla

Day 23: Llanes → Vargas (62 miles / 5,780 ft.)

We woke early to catch the sunrise peeking over the Bay of Biscay, then started climbing. It became another beautifully picturesque day of climbing and descending through green mountains and river valleys.

We passed through Colombres, known for its grand “Indiano” homes built by emigrants who returned wealthy from the Americas. After crossing from Asturias into Cantabria, we followed the Nansa River and stopped to watch the fish below.

Of course, I found us another nice shortcut. It followed a trail that was almost rideable, which means it was mostly unrideable.

Later we found a café where two coffees, a slice of tortilla española, and a chocolate croissant still cost about half what we would expect to pay in the United States.

The route continued through Cabezón de la Sal, a town historically connected to salt production, and along parts of the old Camino Real through Riocorvo and Cartes. This centuries-old road once connected Spain’s northern coast with the Castilian plateau.

A swarm of motorcycles added some extra excitement to our final descent into the Vargas area. We ended at a lovely guesthouse in the countryside, where we ate a tapas-style dinner on the terrace while watching the sunset. Afterward, the owner and another couple joined us for a long conversation about travel, kindness, politics, food, and nearly everything else. It was a wonderful mixture of Spanish and English, helped along by an owner who loved practicing his English.Read more