One Last Dance with the Pyrenees

Day 36: Pierrefitte-Nestalas to Lescar (64 miles / 5900 ft.)

Our route was supposed to take us directly toward Pau, but the night before, Michel looked it over and suggested a detour back into the Pyrenees. He pointed out two more magnificent cols that he insisted we should not miss: the Col du Soulor and the Col d’Aubisque.

The weather forecast was nearly perfect, so how could we say no?

In the morning, our clean laundry was waiting in a neat pile outside our bedroom door. It was one more thoughtful gesture from Nathalie and Michel after an already wonderful stay. We enjoyed a breakfast of bread, fresh marmalade, and coffee before saying goodbye and rolling out at about 8:15.

Michel even climbed onto his motorcycle and guided us through town to make sure we found the correct road. Having our own motorcycle escort felt like a fitting beginning to what would become one of our most memorable days in the Pyrenees.

The first part of the ride would take us uphill for nearly 21 miles, eventually carrying us more than a mile above sea level. Michel had certainly not steered us wrong.

The road climbed through the beautiful Val d’Azun, passing Arras-en-Lavedan, Aucun, and Arrens-Marsous before beginning the serious ascent toward the Col du Soulor. Above us rose the steep, jagged peaks of the Pyrenees. Sheep, cattle, and horses grazed across the high pastures, their bells echoing through the valleys.

At one point, we watched a farmer and his dogs moving cattle down from the higher elevations for the winter. It was one of those timeless mountain scenes that made us slow down and simply watch. The beginning fall colors had also brought out numerous photographers, all trying to capture the same magnificent landscape we were riding through.

As we climbed higher, the air became cooler and the views grew even more dramatic. Lisa and I started debating whether this ride or yesterday’s climb over the Col du Tourmalet was more beautiful. Eventually, we decided there was no point trying to compare them. They were completely different experiences, and both were magnificent.

Along the climb, we kept leapfrogging a mother and father who were supporting their son as he tackled the same two cols. They cheered for us each time they passed, and we cheered for him. That little roadside camaraderie helped us click off the kilometer markers one at a time.

We reached the Col du Soulor at about 4,836 feet. It is one of the classic passes of the Pyrenees and a frequent companion to the neighboring Aubisque in the Tour de France. We stopped for a few photographs but did not linger long. A brief descent awaited us, followed by the final climb toward the Col d’Aubisque.

The road connecting the two cols may have been the most spectacular part of the day. It clung to the mountainside through the Cirque du Litor, with tunnels, cliffs, and enormous views into the valley below. Portions of this dramatic balcony road date to the 1800s, when it was built as part of a route connecting the Pyrenean spa towns.

Then came the final push to the Col d’Aubisque.

At approximately 5,607 feet, the Aubisque is one of the legendary mountains of the Tour de France. It was included in the Tour’s first great Pyrenean stage in 1910 and has appeared in the race dozens of times since. Standing at the summit beside the three enormous Tour de France bicycles, it was easy to imagine generations of cyclists suffering their way up the same mountain.

We spent more time at this summit, especially since the café was open! We celebrated with fries, an omelet, and bread. I had also been carrying a chunk of Camembert in my bag for a couple of days. By this point it was extremely soft and mushy, which made it perfect for spreading over the eggs and fries. Gourmet French mountaintop cuisine!

From the Aubisque, we began an incredible descent through Gourette and Eaux-Bonnes toward Laruns and the Ossau Valley. From the summit, the route would carry us downhill for nearly 30 miles toward Pau.

That morning, we had also received a message from our expected Warmshowers hosts canceling our stay. In five years of using Warmshowers, it was only our second cancellation. They simply seemed to have run out of the energy needed to host and left us searching for another place at the last minute.

Fortunately, another request was answered by Jean-Michel and Isabelle in Lescar, just outside Pau. Once again, the Warmshowers community came through for us.

As the long descent carried us away from the high mountains, both of us felt a little sad watching the Pyrenees slowly disappear behind us. These mountains have become one of our favorite places in the world to ride.

As I get older, I sometimes wonder whether I will ever return to certain places. There is so much of the world left to explore, but the Pyrenees keep pulling us back. After beautiful weather, unforgettable climbs, reunions with old friends, and several wonderful Warmshowers experiences, it was difficult to imagine that this might be our final day riding among them.

We made quick time into Pau, where we did a little sightseeing, found snacks and cold drinks, and stopped at an outdoor store so Lisa could buy a new jacket. From there, we continued to Lescar, the historic first capital of Béarn, arriving shortly before our hosts would be available at 6:00.

When we reached the house, Jean-Michel was outside preparing to return what he called his “special bicycles” to their garage. He took us over to see them, and we immediately recognized the same style of trishaws we use with Cycling Without Age in Iowa City.

Then came the truly surprising connection: Jean-Michel, like me, had helped start a Cycling Without Age organization in his own community.

What are the chances?

After Jean-Michel returned the bicycles, Lisa and I cleaned up, and Isabelle arrived home from her painting and sculpting class. Together, we prepared a dinner of duck, pasta, salad, and vegetables.

Both Jean-Michel and Isabelle are retired, but they fill their days with volunteering and helping others. Isabelle teaches French to immigrants, while Jean-Michel stays busy with Cycling Without Age. They also share our love of mountain biking, hiking, and spending time in the mountains. They recently purchased a second home near where we had stayed the previous night and were already inviting us to return.

The stories and laughter continued around the table until someone finally looked at the clock. It was nearly 11:30!

Once again, a day that began with beautiful roads ended with new friendships and another reminder of why Warmshowers has become such an important part of our travels.

“Bonne nuit, faites de beaux rêves.”

Good night, and sweet dreams.Read more