Gray Roads and Heavy History

Day 49: Saint-Dizier to Varennes-en-Argonne (62 miles / 3150 ft.)

There are days that feel like work. For me, parts of today certainly did, although we were still enjoying the balance of riding and adventuring.

I had a rough night in what seemed like an extremely dusty apartment. I took allergy medicine, wrapped my down jacket around the pillow, and slept inside my sleeping bag. The morning brought more gray skies, chilly temperatures, and a 7 to 11 mph headwind. Even the pavement seemed to be holding onto our tires, and the road felt like one long gradual climb.

Still, we pushed on through quiet villages, forests, and farmland. We stopped to photograph old churches, something that somehow never gets old, and visited the haunting ruins of Trois-Fontaines Abbey. Founded in 1118, it was the first daughter abbey of Clairvaux and once housed a large Cistercian community. Today, its roofless stone walls rise among the trees like something from another world.

As we continued into the Argonne, the history became heavier. This forested region saw years of brutal fighting during World War I and became the site of the massive Meuse-Argonne Offensive in 1918. We stopped at the solemn Aux Morts de l’Argonne memorial, surrounded by autumn trees and gray skies that seemed appropriate for the setting.

In Varennes-en-Argonne, the Pennsylvania State Memorial honors Pennsylvania troops who fought in France and helped liberate the town in 1918. Built in 1927, it stands above the Aire Valley as another reminder of the strong connection between this quiet corner of France and the United States.

Varennes is also famous for a completely different moment in French history. In June 1791, King Louis XVI, Marie Antoinette, and their family fled Paris in disguise, hoping to reach loyal royalist forces near Montmédy. The king was recognized after stopping in Sainte-Ménehould, and word was sent ahead. The royal carriage was stopped in Varennes, and the family was returned to Paris. The failed escape destroyed much of the remaining trust in the monarchy and helped set the stage for Louis XVI’s execution in 1793.

Our hotel, Le Grand Monarque, was already operating as a post station at the time. Supporters of the king waited there for the royal family, but the carriage was stopped only about 200 meters away. Had they reached the hotel and their waiting escorts, French history might have unfolded very differently.

When we arrived, the hotel owner, Alexandre, greeted us with genuine excitement. He helped carry our belongings upstairs and was clearly very proud of the historic hotel he and his wife operate. His warm welcome immediately made us feel at home.

After settling in and warming ourselves with hot showers, we ventured to Carrefour Express for supplies and then found a kebab and fast-food shop near the hotel. The owner was excited to prepare our dinner and took great pride in presenting the food to us. Cheeseburgers, french fries, and a couple of Belgian beers were exactly what our cold and hungry bodies needed.

While eating, we had a sweet interaction with four young French teenagers who were curious about where we came from and what we were doing. They practiced their English, we used our translator when needed, and somehow the conversation worked. It is those small, unexpected connections that make a trip like this so special.

Tomorrow brings something else special. We will reunite with Feyyaz and Arielle, Warmshowers hosts we first stayed with in 2018, in Charleville-Mézières. After a gray and difficult day, that gives us plenty to look forward to.Read more