Saxophones, Citadels, and Cyclocross Weather

Day 52: Givet, France to Namur, Belgium (43 miles / 1,250 ft.)

As we approached Belgium, it seemed only appropriate that we were also approaching some serious cyclocross weather. The forecast called for chilly temperatures, drizzle, and strengthening winds. We wanted an early start and hoped to reach Namur before the weather became too unpleasant.

The morning didn’t look quite as threatening as expected, so we spent a little time circling through Givet and taking a final look at the town. Only about three miles of France remained before we crossed into Belgium.

The change was almost immediate. French stone and stucco gave way to the red and brown brick homes so common in Belgium, many with steep slate roofs, decorative brickwork, large windows, and carefully maintained gardens, roads, and cycle paths. It was subtle, but we could tell we had entered another country.

Most of today’s route followed the Meuse River on Belgium’s RAVeL bicycle network. The Meuse is a natural river, but locks and dams have made it navigable for commercial boats, so long sections feel almost like a canal. For centuries, it has served as an important transportation and industrial corridor connecting France, Belgium, and the Netherlands. For us, it provided a beautiful, mostly flat path north through the narrow valley.

We were especially excited to return to Dinant, which we had visited during our 2018 tour. That time we approached from the north during spring. Today we arrived from the south, surrounded by changing autumn leaves. We remembered the massive cliffs rising beside the river and the impressive homes along the water, but we still couldn’t resist stopping for more photographs.

The grand houses and villas along this stretch reflect the prosperity the Meuse brought through trade, industry, and tourism. Many were built during the 19th and early 20th centuries, when wealthy families wanted homes overlooking the river and its dramatic cliffs.

Dinant is squeezed into an impossibly narrow space between the Meuse and a towering wall of rock. Its onion-domed church sits beneath the citadel, making one of the most recognizable scenes in Belgium. The city is also the birthplace of Adolphe Sax, inventor of the saxophone. The colorful saxophones lining the Charles de Gaulle Bridge honor him and help explain why the instrument appears everywhere around town. We stopped for a few pictures, including a recreation of one we had taken in 2018.

From Dinant, we continued north beside the Meuse toward Namur. The valley remained beautiful, with cliffs, fall colors, large riverside homes, small villages, and boats moving quietly along the water.

Upon reaching Namur, we headed directly for its massive citadel, sitting high above the meeting point of the Meuse and Sambre rivers. We rode the steep cobbled climbs and explored the pathways overlooking the city. The effort was worth it for the sweeping views, although by then it was nearly 2:30 and we still hadn’t eaten lunch.

We searched for a comfortable place out of the wind, but while meandering through one of my little sightseeing routes, we realized we were less than a mile from our lodging. We checked in and finally ate our chicken-and-rice sandwich in the warmth of the apartment.

After some rest, we prepared to walk around the city. Just as we were ready to leave around 5:00, the rain began, so we waited another half hour. It was still drizzling when we ventured out, but we enjoyed a nice tour through the old center, visited a few historic buildings, found some quiet little pubs for sampling Belgian beers (thanks Guthardt for the recommendations!) , and finished the evening with pizza.

Tomorrow could be interesting. We have received several weather warnings, with some parks closing because of expected winds approaching 50 mph and serious rain arriving during the afternoon. Our plan is to leave around sunrise, or perhaps a little before, and ride approximately 55 miles to Luc and Manou’s home in Wemmel. The route will also require us to navigate Brussels.

We hope to arrive before 1:00 p.m. and beat the worst of the storm. If the morning weather is already miserable, our apartment is conveniently located directly across from the train station. For once, we have a Plan B waiting right outside the door.Read more