• Aix en Provence: Capstone of the Tour

    28 novembre 2013, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 37 °F

    We took a bus tour from the port at Toulon, France up to the town of Aix-en-Provence with our guide Olivier. We had a leisurely walk through the old town, and enjoyed its Roman and medieval structures. Afterwards we had several hours to ourselves. At Olivier’s suggestion we went to a stand-and-snack cafe and ordered a ham, cheese and mushroom crepe. It was delicious, even though we had to eat it seated at an empty sidewalk cafe in the cold and wind. We bought candy at an upscale candy shop that specialized in a local delicacy, callisons, that a nobleman once had made for his unhappy wife. We tried it. It wasn’t bad. Then I got a cream horn and some serious coffee, which warmed me up for an afternoon of people watching. The high temperature only got up to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit. As we returned to the ship, Olivier showed us a mountain range where Christian forces once stalled a Muslim invasion in the eighth century, Mont St. Victoire. The high, white cliffs of this marble range, also provided subjects for Cezanne’s paintings. In fact, he so enjoyed the light in this location that he bought a home that allowed him to see the daily changes in the mountain’s illumination. We returned to the ship in time for supper, where we said good-bye to our messmates and packed so that we could be ready to board the airplane in Barcelona the next morning for the flight back to the United States.Leggi altro

  • Pisa: Quiet Grandeur

    27 novembre 2013, Italia ⋅ 🌙 41 °F

    We drove west from Florence to arrive in Pisa just as the sun set. We passed the quarries where the Carara marble was mined for the greatest statues in history. We saw the famous Leaning Tower, the Campanille of the Cathedral, and we saw a glorious sun set over crimson marble. It was a breathtaking end to a day of monumental discoveries.Leggi altro

  • The Art of Florence

    27 novembre 2013, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 39 °F

    Our guide Elizabetha was an art major as well as a guide, and she explained that the genius of Michaelangelo's statue of David lies in his face. Unlike its predecessors, which show a bloody head of Goliath, this statue shows David's face at the moment of decision: "Let's do this thing."Leggi altro

  • Frigid Morning in Florence

    27 novembre 2013, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 39 °F

    Florence is unspeakably beautiful. A lovely bus ride from Livorno to Florence took us through a most beautiful part of Tuscany. I was surprised that the ancestral villages of Vinci, and that of the Bonaparte family are less than five miles apart. From a point overlooking Florence we saw the old city square, the Church of Santa Maria della Fiore, and the Church of Santa Croce all in one view. I was particularly impressed that this last church contains the graves of both Michaelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci.Leggi altro

  • The Flavian Amphitheater

    26 novembre 2013, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    In the afternoon we visited the Colosseum (properly called the Flavian Amphitheater). Glenda was troubled by the many tragic deaths that occurred there. The drive back to Civitavecchia took us through the south gate to the city, which is still standing, along with a portion of the old city wall. Just outside the wall, we saw the appropriately named Church of St. Paul Outside the Walls. This church, according to an old tradition, covers the grave of the Apostle Paul. We returned to the ship around 6:00 P. M. in time for a late supper with our messmates.Leggi altro

  • Lunch at Hotel Bernini

    26 novembre 2013, Città del Vaticano ⋅ ⛅ 45 °F

    Our drive to the Hotel Bernini for lunch revealed more information about Roman imperial history, as we drove down the street where Julius Caesar’s birthplace once stood. The hotel was modern, clean, sophisticated and trendy. The meal was superb. A delightful little girl named Sophia was there with her parents, with whom Glenda struck up a relationship. The rooftop garden made an excellent place for photographs of Rome. We walked to the Trevi Fountain and discovered Yum-Yum Style Pizza, a place we must visit again.Leggi altro

  • Treasures of the Vatican

    26 novembre 2013, Città del Vaticano ⋅ ⛅ 41 °F

    We started with a 90 minute bus ride from Civitavecchia to Rome. Guide Monica showed us the old fort at Civitavecchia, built by Michaelangelo. We came into Rome via the old Aurelian road to see first the Vatican Museum. Some of the exhibits are exactly as I remember them in 1971. Others, including a new visitors’ reception center, were changed for the Holy Year celebration of 2000. The weather was very cold and windy. The ceiling of the Sistine Chapel has been cleaned since I saw it some forty years ago. It is utterly magnificent. Perhaps it was the weather keeping crowds away, but our guide said that in twenty-eight years she has seen the Sistine Chapel as empty as it was for our visit only once before. Next we went into St. Peter’s Basilica. As always, it is so opulently, overwhelmingly beautiful that words fail to describe it. A quick visit through St. Peter’s Square still reveals the obelisk which the Romans stole from the Egyptians. The Vatican keeps it because it stood in the Hippodrome, and was a witness to the martyrdom of St. Peter.Leggi altro

  • Herculaneum, Last Refuge from Vesuvius

    25 novembre 2013, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    I awoke to a beautiful sunrise over Mt. Vesuvius. An 8 A. M. visit to Dr. Dylan Belton had him removing my IV port, and giving me two more boxes of different antibiotics. At breakfast we had a wonderful conversation with a group of women who are co-workers at the Princess Lodges in Alaska. The doctor said I could go into Herculaneum. Our guide, Giaconda, led us on a wonderful tour, during which the weather turned very cold and windy. At the end of the day quite a few of the excursion groups returned to the ship late. Many of the passengers who left the ship in the morning were unprepared for the cold. At supper I tried to make conversation with John, the horse trainer from England, about horse racing and odds making. Tomorrow, according to Glenda, we begin the “Rome Death March,” an all-day excursion to the Eternal City.Leggi altro

  • Recovery

    24 novembre 2013, Ionian Sea ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Enormous relief! When I woke at 5:00 A. M. my temperature was normal, and I felt like myself again. I had other IV’s at 8:00 A. M., 2:00 P. M. and at 10:00 P. M. At 2:00 my attendant was nurse Margie. Rohen administered the IV at night. All other times today I was in bed. I had a good conversation at dinner with Pat, the nurse, about bioethics. We continued to pass through rough seas and thundershowers on the way back to Naples, and entered the Strait of Messina as we went to bed for the night. While I was still running a fever, I dreamed there were two Muslim women, all dressed in black at the foot of my bed. As it turned out, I was looking at my own knees in my black jeans.Leggi altro

  • Pneumonia in Mikonos

    23 novembre 2013, Grecia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    My fever spiked again last night at 103.8, so obviously I’m not out of the woods yet. I went to the ship’s medical center, where Dr. Dylan Belton from Bermuda and PA Rohen from South Africa were both very friendly and helpful. They started intravenous injections for pneumonia and told me to check back by the medical center at 4:30 P. M. By then nothing had changed. It was a difficult afternoon. They gave me another bag of the same IV, started me on a Z-pack, and told me to return in the morning.Leggi altro

  • The Hippodrome

    22 novembre 2013, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Visiting the Hippodrome amazed me! It sits just between the Hagia Sofia and the Blue Mosque. It was adjacent to the palace of the Caesars who followed Constantine in the Eastern Roman Empire. Of course it was important. Chariot races were to the ancient Romans what television is to us--entertainment. However, it was significant historically because of the Nika Riots in 532 A. D. and the iconoclastic controversies in the early church. Yet all of this history occurred in a space about the size of a city block. It is truly amazing how much history occurred in such a small place. There is a helical bronze monument, which was trucated only recently. It can be traced back to the Battle of Thermopylae in 480 B. C. There is an obelisk that came from Egypt. If Constantinople was the capital of the world for a thousand years, then this city block was its heart.Leggi altro

  • The Blue Mosque

    22 novembre 2013, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    The Sultanahmet Mosque is also known as the Blue Mosque because of the lovely blue light that comes through the stained glass windows. There was a place reserved for prayer but the vast majority of people we saw were sightseers. We were impressed that there were women at the doors enforcing a dress code and assisting visitors who did not meet it. Some of the marble cladding the exterior of this building was scavenged from the Hagia Sofia, whose exterior is now made of brick that has begun to crumble.Leggi altro

  • The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul

    22 novembre 2013, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    The Grand Bazaar of Istanbul is a cross between a middle eastern suq and a modern shopping mall. In business since 1461 there are still to be found little stalls selling spices, flowers and leather, but one can also find shops selling Armani, Prada, and Mont Blanc. The sounds, colors and smells are intoxicating, and the place is so large that tourists occasionally do become lost. Guides must call the police to search for such wayward sheep. Any product or commodity is available here, and bargaining is expected.Leggi altro

  • A Day in the Harem, Topkapi

    22 novembre 2013, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    It is hard to imagine that by the nineteenth century the Ottoman Emperors needed a new palace, but they built one nevertheless. The old palace, called Topkapi (the Cannons) is still magnificent. We visited the Tower of Justice, then went into the Harem, the private quarters for the royal family. The ornamentation and the architecture constantly bring surprises with innovation and daring color combinations. Blue and gold stained glass harmonize exquisitely with the gold and the wood on the walls and floors, for example. Our guide, Kenan, was a wealth of information about why the harem, multiple wives and one single successor to the Caliph were essential to the Ottoman royalty. In Topkapi Palace one's historical imagination runs wild.Leggi altro

  • Hagia Eirene

    22 novembre 2013, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Unlike the Haiga Sofia, the Hagia Eirene next door has never been a mosque. It is still used as a concert hall, but all of its old Christian iconography is still intact. An ancient ecumenical council was held here, though not as important as that of Nicea a few miles away. Still, one can sense the age of the faith that founded this church.Leggi altro

  • Hagia Sophia, The Gate of Heaven

    22 novembre 2013, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Today is the fiftieth anniversary of the assassination of John F. Kennedy. We arrived in Istanbul about 7:00 A. M., and the first sight I saw from our balcony was the Hagia Sophia. It also turned out to be the first place we visited. It is not difficult to imagine the Emperor Justinian entering through the imperial doors, to reenact liturgically the grand drama of the cosmos in the Holy Eucharist. For a thousand years this was the central church in the world. It was the Vatican before the Vatican mattered. It was the Gate of Heaven.Leggi altro

  • Kusadasi and Ephesus

    21 novembre 2013, Turchia ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    I was running a little temperature so I decided not to get off the ship for the visit to Kusadasi and Ephesus. We had been here before, so it seemed to be a good day to rest and recuperate. Glenda spent some time going around and photographing areas on the ship.Leggi altro

  • Corinth Canal

    20 novembre 2013, Grecia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    We took the bus to Corinth where we boarded a boat for a trip down the canal. It is remarkable that several ancient and modern attempts to cut a canal here failed. We saw the Acrocorinthos in the distance, but were not able to visit there. It was a lovely, leisurely cruise in an impressive feat of engineering.Leggi altro

  • Worship and Water, St. Mark's

    17 novembre 2013, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    We worshipped at St. Mark’s Basilica. We had to walk on little platforms to avoid the ankle-deep water flooding St. Mark’s Square. Even though the service was in Italian, I felt more at home there than in any United Methodist Church I’ve attended in the last decade. We made a lunch of a small pizza and coffee at a sidewalk cafe in St. Mark’s Square. The privilege of eating that small meal in that location cost $40! We finished touring the Correr Museum. A leisurely walk back to our shuttle boat yielded some excellent photographs. The beauty of Venice’s art and architecture is overwhelming. Since we are ending one cruise now, and beginning another, we got a new set of messmates. John Ward and his caregiver Jenna from Norwich, England joined the table. John, who trains racehorses, was paralyzed three years ago when kicked in the face by a mare. His spinal cord was broken in the accident. Jenna is his nurse who travels with John. Also new at the table were Jim and his wife Pat, from rural Australia outside of Perth. He is a retired sheep farmer, and she is a retired nurse.Leggi altro

  • The Wonders of Venice

    16 novembre 2013, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    Venice is magnificent! I stood on the balcony taking pictures as the ship entered St. Mark’s Basin. We went on an organized tour of the Doge’s Palace with our guide Sylvia, a very witty and capable young lady. Glenda and I chose to forego the tour of the glass shop so that we might visit the Correr Museum. The collection there is incredible. We bought two books on Venice, one on the Doge’s Palace.Leggi altro

  • Dubrovnik-An Unexpected Treasure

    14 novembre 2013, Croazia ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    We were not expecting much from the city of Dubrovnik in Croatia. How surprised we were! I had heard that there were some buildings here from the ninth century. I did not realize that the whole ninth-century town is still intact behind the original walls. The main churches are those of St. Mary and St. Blaise, the patron of Dubrovnik. He miraculously repelled a Turkish invasion. A seventh-century wall around the old harbor leads to the church of St. John. Although we had few expectations of Dubrovnik, the fact that the old city is clean, whole and intact impressed me. One shopkeeper excoriated a man who allowed his dog to foul the street. Dubrovnik has recovered from the artillery shelling it endured in the Serbo-Croatian War in 1994. The main street and the palace of the Rector of the old Republic of Raguza were very impressive.Leggi altro

  • The Chef's Table

    13 novembre 2013, Adriatic Sea ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F

    One of the joys of taking a cruise occurs when the ship offers something akin to what Princess Cruises calls "The Chef's Table." On the Ruby Princess it involves a trip back to the kitchens to see how the meals are prepared. Of course there are samples, ice carving, sugar sculptures and other delights to tickle the palate before one even sits down at the table. When that moment finally arrives, one is seated at a luxurious formal table setting with wines paired for each course. My problem was that though I never drink in excess, I was so preoccupied with the interesting table conversation that the steward continued to refill my wine glasses without my being aware of it. No wonder it was such a delightful meal! The desserts were works of art. The whole meal was a memorable experience.Leggi altro

  • Corfu: The City

    13 novembre 2013, Grecia ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    The island of Corfu (Kerkyra) is a wonderland. It has been domanated by Venetian, Austro-Hungarian and English rulers. The result is a wonderfully cosmopolitan island that bears the stamp of the whole of Europe. Technically Greek now, we saw the house in which Prince Phillip, Duke of Edinburgh, was born. The buildings look Venetian. Every language, including English and French, are widely spoken here. The food is wonderful. The ambience is intoxicating. Corfu has become one of our favorite places in the world to visit.Leggi altro

  • Sissi: Beauty and Tragedy

    13 novembre 2013, Grecia ⋅ 🌧 61 °F

    Empress Elizabeth of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, known to friends as Sissi, was a beautiful woman with a very unhappy life. Her husband was not interested in her. Yet she dutifully bore an heir, who was a serious disappointment. Her getaway from the Hofburg Palace in Vienna was this seaside resort she built for herself. She was fanatical about two things: her beauty, and Greek mythology. She would spend hours each morning arranging her long, lovely hair. She also built this monument to Achilles and the stories associated with Greek gods and demigods. Finally she was assassinated as republican fever swept across Europe in the prelude to World War I.Leggi altro

  • Katakolon: The Port We Missed

    12 novembre 2013, Grecia ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Katakolon is the gateway to Mount Olympus. The day we were to visit the weather was rainy and stormy with heavy winds. Our captain wanted a particular berth. He was advised that to get it he must go out of the port and loiter for a few hours. He did so. When he returned to Katakolon, the harbor master refused to give him the only berth the captain thought safe, so we skipped Katakolon and Olympus, and sailed on up the coast.Leggi altro

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