• The Wild Wild East

    6月9日, 日本 ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    Marugame Castle in Kagawa Prefecture— they call it a castle, but it’s actually a watchtower. When it was built in the twelfth century, it was crucial to the defense of this kingdom.

    In many ways, it was much like the other castles we’ve explored this past week—beautiful, meticulously crafted, and incredibly expensive to build and maintain.

    Why was it needed? Why was it so important? Visiting our fourth castle in seven days sparked a broader reflection on history. Let me explain.

    Some years ago, we toured the Rhine River in Germany. Along its winding course stood one castle after another—dozens of them, many lovingly preserved, others in picturesque ruins. The sheer number made me pause and wonder: Why so many castles in Germany?

    Today, standing on the grounds of Marugame Castle, the same question came to mind: Why so many castles in Japan?

    In medieval Germany, the answer was often a simple one. A local warlord—or, more bluntly, a thug with enough money and muscle—would claim a stretch of territory and build a fortress. Some even strung chains across the river to extract tolls from passing boats. With enough success, they expanded their domain, sometimes becoming dukes or princes. The most ambitious of all became kings. It was a progression fueled not by nobility of character, but by raw power and opportunism.

    It’s a pattern we’ve seen in other stories, too. Growing up, we watched Westerns where a ruthless cattle baron would muscle out competition, employ a gang of hired guns, and take over a town. The formula was familiar: one man seizing power and controlling the local economy—until, of course, the hero in the white hat rode in to set things right.

    Japan’s history followed a similar arc, though without the cowboy in the white hat. In the 12th century, with no strong central government, the most cunning or brutal swordsman might rise to local prominence. Rivals were eliminated or subdued. Castles began as simple watchtowers—tools of control, not comfort. Alliances between these local powers were made and broken, wars erupted, and over time, these opportunists rebranded themselves as the noble class.

    Centuries later, we tour their castles, marvel at their artistry, and stroll through their exquisite gardens. From a safe distance, history takes on a certain charm.

    Yet beneath the beauty lies a past of countless forgotten wars, petty rivalries, and shifting power. Japan, like Europe, is dotted with these reminders—fortresses that speak of a turbulent age when might made right.

    One can only hope that humanity will someday outgrow the old cycles of power-grabs and petty wars, whether waged in armor or in business suits. History, though, suggests the tendency is hard to escape.

    And so it goes.
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  • Badge of the Samurai

    6月8日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    One of the reasons the town of Bizen became so important in medieval Japan was that it was located at the intersection of three major trading routes that ended in Japan’s “Inland Sea.”

    Another important feature in the town’s ancient success was the Yoshii River. Japan has no large iron deposits. The Yoshii River, however, carries down from the mountains, not only the potters’ clay, but also an unusual type of iron-laden sand. Burn it in a hot fire and you get iron and carbon. While the rest of the world was proud of their iron weapons, Japanese sword makers, without knowing its chemical content, were making blades of steel—harder, sharper and more durable than iron.

    Not only did the potter’s craft flourish here, so did that of the very few makers of the weapons that eventually became known as the ”Samurai sword.”

    Around the end of the 12th century, the Kobizen school here laid the foundation for sword production. Bizen became a kingdom renowned for its wonderful sword crafting techniques and the high quality of the blades produced here.

    For centuries Japanese swords have been prized, however, not as weapons, but rather as works of art. During the ages of the Shoguns, the ruler awarded such swords to his Samurai knights as a badge of office.

    Up until 1000 years ago, warriors used these swords in combat. The Japanese sword is a hacking weapon rather than a piercing weapon. Soldiers swung their swords to slash the head off of an enemy, or to cut the legs off a horse in a cavalry attack. By the time of the Samurai, however, the military no longer used swords. Pikes, spears, arrows and gunpowder rendered the sword as obsolete. Among the swords we saw on display, the most recent weapon we could find that had actually been used in combat was dated to the early 15th century.

    Master swordsmith Toshimitsu Imaizumi was born near here just before the turn of the twentieth century. Influenced by his grandfather, he took an interest in Japanese swords when he was a junior in high school. He started making swords. While working at a cotton mill in nearby Kurashiki City, he began the study of forging Japanese swords, and accepting the invitations of the people here who were involved in the craft.

    After World War 2 the Samurai sword was outlawed, and the government collected all it could find. Some very elaborate, very old swords were declared national treasures and were put on display in museums close to the towns where they were made. The government displayed ninety percent of these in the museum we saw today, the Bizen Osafune Japanese Sword Museum. Professionals estimate that between 80 and 90 percent of all historic samurai swords were made within a one-mile radius of this town.

    During the ban on sword production, Imaizumi stayed in Bizen continuing his studies, making blades and small knives.
    The revival of Japanese sword-making began when the postwar ban was lifted in 1954. Imaizumi resumed his experiments with full-size Samurai swords, attempting to recapture some techniques which had been lost over the centuries. For example, he learned that the ancient Samurai swords’ hard edge is the result of a process of repeatedly folding the semi-molten steel and hammering it into over 33,000 laminated layers. Swords are now made the same way.

    Imaizumi began to win numerous awards at Japanese sword expositions, attracted many disciples, and continued his own research into making his own steel compounds and quenching methods up until his death at age 97. He always had great enthusiasm for crafting swords, and he left a legacy of many great swords as a pioneer of the Bizen sword renaissance.

    So today they are works of art to be acquired by collectors. And how beautiful they are! It takes two years to make one, and a new one costs as much as a luxury car.

    Somehow it was very satisfying today to see craftsmen making object exactly as they were made a thousand years ago, using the same materials, methods and techniques. This age-long consistency is just one of the things that make Japan such a land of wonder.
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  • Gifts from the Earth

    6月8日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    During the Edo Period six families were supported by the ruling Ikeda Clan of Bizen to make pottery. The Kimura family is one of those six families. Ichiyou Kimura is the thirteenth generation of the Kimura family making pottery. Their presence in the craft is so significant that the style of pots thrown here are classed in the “Kimura” tradition.

    Ichiyou Kimura led us through his outlet store and workshop, where he showed us the kiln his father built in 1947, and explained to us the intricacies of pot making here in Bizen, the center of ceramics for all of Japan.

    Of course, we have potteries in North Carolina. You may know that Seagrove is sometimes referred to as “jug town.” The potters in central North Carolina were discovered in the early twentieth century when wealthy easterners traveled south to Florida and discovered local potters halfway down the east coast. Abby Aldrich Rockefeller fell in love with American folk art, and suddenly the rural South became chic. Families such as the Rockefellers and the Tufts became patrons for some of the indigenous potters located in the sandhills. The materials and the designs the potters used went back to colonial days in the southeast.

    If there is one thing that disappoints me about the potters of Jugtown today, it is that they rarely use local materials and traditional designs. Instead of using local clay, the Seagrove potters usually import their clay from as far away as Africa and Asia. What impresses me about the potters that we saw here in Japan today is that they still dig clay from the hills surrounding their town. The glazes, colors and designs of their craft go back to the ninth century. They have changed neither their designs, their processes nor their materials.

    The pieces we saw were beautiful. Of course, there are some trendy little trinkets for the tourists, such as tiny ceramic cats or chickens. But they still make the traditional rice bowls, cups for tea ceremonies, and bowls for foods and beverages. Their glazes do not contain lead, so all of the pieces are food-safe. In one shop I saw an elaborate dragon made completely out of ceramics. It was an elegant piece of art.

    The pieces here are not cheap, but with the forming of the pots, the firing of the kiln, and the finishing of the pieces it takes about two weeks to make a pot. The color and design of each piece is governed by the rate at which the clay is allowed to heat up and cool down. Therein lies the art. Obviously, the pieces are prepared in bulk, and once the kiln is hot, as many pieces as possible are fired. Firing takes place only a few times each year.

    It was a privilege to see this ancient art performed before our eyes. When you come to Japan, don’t miss this presentation of the master’s craft.

    The town of Bizen has other attractions as well. While many in our group today were still shopping, our guide pointed out to me two interesting sites. Half a block north was a small Shinto Shrine. I had time so I left our crowd and found a lovely, quiet little sanctuary halfway up a small mountain. A stairway led to the top. I entered the sanctuary and spent a few silent moments of solitude.

    The other place our guide mentioned was an old house with a traditional thatched roof rarely seen in Japan today. While Glenda shopped for more ceramics, I took a few photos.

    With these happy memories safely stored, we left for our next destination in this lovely town.
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  • The White Heron Castle

    6月7日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    White Heron Castle is perfect. It looks as though it was built yesterday. How did this happen?

    This place is one of Japan’s best-preserved castles and a UNESCO World Heritage site. It started out way back in 1333 as a small fortress, but over the centuries it grew into the massive structure you see today, completed in 1609. Here’s the cool part: the castle has never been attacked or damaged in battle. That’s probably why it still looks so pristine.

    Getting there, though, is no easy stroll. The castle is protected by three moats and a maze of clever defenses. The path leading up to the main entrance is steep and uneven—designed to slow down intruders. It slowed us down too! We were huffing and puffing by the time we reached the top. The crew discouraged shipmates with mobility issues from attempting the climb over irregular cobblestones and small boulders implanted in the roadway to discourage pedestrian progress. Even Glenda decided (wisely) to sit out this trek up the mountain. Inside, we spotted all sorts of defense features: narrow slits for arrows, loopholes for guns, and plenty of places for soldiers to rain destruction on anyone foolish enough to try and break in.

    And then there’s the front door: a three-foot-thick sandwich of oak and steel. Good luck getting past that! We also noticed more “murder holes” along the walls—perfect for pouring hot oil or launching arrows at attackers below. Thankfully, today’s visitors just get treated to a history lesson, not a medieval assault.

    A couple of unexpected details really stood out to me. First, the castle actually had indoor toilets, which I wasn’t expecting for a 17th-century structure. Soldiers under siege could use long wooden troughs that were flushed with buckets of water. Pretty advanced, right?

    Even more impressive is how the castle was built to handle earthquakes. The main tower is cleverly suspended from massive wooden beams supported by two enormous wooden pillars passing through all three floors down into the bedrock. This arrangement allows the building to sway with the moving ground instead of collapsing. The builders knew what they were doing.

    And let’s not forget—this place is gorgeous. With its bright white walls perched high on the hill, it looks more like a palace than a military fortress. I kept having to remind myself this was designed for war, not for royalty. The beauty of the place is stunning.

    The best part? The castle was never actually used in battle. No sieges, no fires, no destruction—just seven centuries of history, still standing for us to explore today. It really does feel like stepping into a time machine. If you’re anywhere near Himeji, put this one at the top of your list. You won’t regret it.
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  • Kokoen Gardens

    6月7日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    It seems that every garden we visit is more beautiful than the previous one. Such was the case today with Kokoen Gardens.

    Its expanse is 3.5 hectares (8.5 acres) in size, located just south-west of Himeji Castle. It consists of 9 separate strolling-style gardens of different sizes and landscaping themes in style of the Edo Period (1603 and 1868). The largest of the gardens is called “The Garden of the Lord's Residence.” Beside it lies the “Tea Ceremony Garden” with the Sukiya-style tea house. “Souju-an,” with its authentic Edo Period buildings and landscaping, is used as a backdrop for period TV dramas and movies.

    The ponds throughout the gardens are teeming with large, colorful coy fish, which swim gracefully, adding to the serene ambiance. While our guide did not say anything about the age of these fish, similar coy fish, grace the ponds around the Imperial Palace in Beijing, China. Some of them are reputed to be more than 100 years old. In China these fish have become symbolic of longevity. Regardless of the age of the fish we saw today, they were a beautiful addition to the gardens.

    The gardens are not huge, occupying less than 10 acres. Today they proved large enough, however, to allow Glenda and me to find a few places separated from the other tourists. It’s easy to find a quiet little niche under a pine tree, or sitting in a rock where one can listen to the splashing of a small waterfall. It is difficult to imagine a more peaceful, or a more beautiful place than the Kokoen Gardens.
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  • Landing in Kobe

    6月7日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Although there has been a settlement here since about 300 A.D., Kobe was not significant until about 150 years ago. What made it so important?

    It was one of the first Japanese ports to open to the outside world after American Commodore Matthew Perry demanded in 1853 that the Japanese open their ports. The area around the Kobe port is called Meriken, which comes from the word American.

    Rice is grown near here so this is a major area for sake production. It is different from that rice wine made in Kyoto. There the water is soft, and it makes the sake sweeter. The water here in Kobe has more minerals in it and so that sake is very dry.

    As we sailed in, Gil Dickson and I stood out on the veranda, looking at a Mitsubishi plant, which was a submarine factory in World War II. As we reached the inner Harbor, we saw the curved lines of the Oriental Hotel. From across the port, the curved lines of the Eclipse appear to be a shadow of the outline of the hotel.

    This area is not only an industrial center of Japan, but the agricultural area outside the city is also the home of Kobe beef. The cattle destined for the table are fed a special diet of grain. To increase their appetite they are also fed gallons of beer. The cows regularly have their tummies massaged, and are sometimes treated to classical music as they eat. The result is a steak with unusually consistent marbling, extraordinary tenderness, and a delicious flavor.🥩
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  • The Sail-out

    6月6日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    You always get the most interesting photographs during the sail-out. We are now leaving the port of Osaka, and now we are on our way to Kobe for tomorrow’s exciting activities. I snapped a few photographs of the port which I hope you’ll enjoy.

    I have packed more lightly for this trip than for any previous one, so I have to be very careful about doing my laundry often. Glenda has done yeoman’s work to get our laundry done today. We folded it and put it away so our state room is still very neat. Supper is next, and I think we’ll just miss tonight’s entertainment in the theater and have a quiet evening together.
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  • Welcome Aboard

    6月6日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F

    We have arrived aboard the Scenic Eclipse II, and ever since, we have been treated like royalty. We quickly threw our gear into our stateroom because the crewman who led us to our room had already invited us for lunch at the Yacht Club Restaurant, just aft of our stateroom on Deck 7.

    I started snooping around and found the theater, the Elements Restaurant on deck 4, and the Observation Lounge at the front of the ship. At 4:15 we have a safety briefing, and sail-out should occur just after 6:00 pm.

    The ship is utterly beautiful, the food has been fantastic and we are all set to explore another part of this fascinating world.
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  • Sanjusangendo

    6月6日, 日本 ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    The name means “The temple of 37 bays.” I didn’t count them, but I’m sure it has at least 37. This building is extremely long, occupying a whole city block, and was built in the 13th century. It lies right next door to our hotel, and is the only temple in the world that houses over 2000 statues of the various manifestations of the Buddha. It is very old, very dark, and it reeked with the smell of sandalwood incense and a creepy feeling of the numinous.

    I haven’t quite figured out the connection, but each year there is an archery competition here. A priest anoints an arrow with holy water and touches the heads of a thousand worshippers who line up for anointing. This practice is believed to prevent headaches. Unfortunately, we were not able to take pictures inside, but the gardens outside are beautiful and I hope you’ll enjoy these shots.
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  • Tea, anyone?

    6月5日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    When somebody invites you for tea in Japan, they’re not just asking you to come to a regular tea party. I was attracted to the notion of the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, partly because of my respect for the Christian tradition of the Holy Eucharist. Both of them are highly stylized, highly ritualized meals.

    There is a common misunderstanding about the Japanese tea ceremony. Some authors, even Japanese authors, find the long, detailed, ceremony abstruse. Yet today, a group of women took us through the Japanese tea ceremony, and it was a delightful experience.

    Unlike most tea to which we’re accustomed, the Japanese drink Matcha, which consists of pulverized tea leaves mixed with boiling water. The flavor is very similar to the red tea we usually serve at our tables. However, the consistency is much thicker, about the same as buttermilk.

    The use of the hands, the position of the utensils, the location of the serving bowls, all have symbolic significance in the Japanese tea ceremony. Roles of server and guest are highly scripted, with traditional invitations and responses for server and guests memorized. Yet it is very courteous, very quiet—joyful, yet peaceful. It takes time. It cannot be rushed.

    Our 34 year-old tour guide told us that although she learned the tea ceremony in high school, she has never performed it at home. In fact, she said that she did not know any of her friends who had done it. “It’s a tradition,” she said, “reserved for old folks.” This may be a tradition which will soon pass out of use.

    The last time we were in Kyoto, we participated in the tea ceremony in a Buddhist monastery. One of our shipmates asked the monk conducting the service, “How often do you do this ceremony? Is it just for birthdays, holidays or anniversaries?“

    The monk responded, “No, it can be performed anytime. And it should be performed often. You see, the tea ceremony celebrates the fact that this moment is sacred. Never again will this group of people be gathered in this place for this ceremony. Even if we were to assemble the same group of people together for another tea ceremony, it would not be the same. The people would be different. They would have changed—just in the process of living. They will have had new experiences, new trials, maybe a different job or spouse. Even if the same group were assembled in the same room, another tea ceremony would not be the same. The tea ceremony,” he explained, “celebrates the holiness and the uniqueness of this moment in time.”

    I’m a fan.

    The matron called for a volunteer to come up and prepare the tea after she had shown us how it was done. Shane volunteered me, so I went up and did it. I felt totally lost, but our patient mentors got me through it. I was honored.

    So even though you may not know the rules of a formal Japanese tea ceremony, why not invite a friend over for a quiet cup of tea and conversation? Put away the cell phone and the iPad for an hour. Allow no interruptions. BE with your friend. In doing this, you would have accomplished most of the purposes of the ceremony. You would be with another person in quiet, joyful communion. And after all, isn’t that really the best part of life?
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  • Geisha: Icon and Anomaly

    6月5日, 日本 ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Geishas are different.

    The district of Gion in downtown Kyoto is the center of the geisha district of Japan. A museum here showcases the profession.

    The concept of the geisha is a cultural feature unique to Japan, and it is difficult for outsiders to understand it. A young girl about 14 to 16 years of age makes a commitment to be a geisha, either because she chooses it or because her family urges her to do so. She is enrolled in a boarding school with the strictest rules. She is on trial for one year, after which she may be released from the school if she is judged to be insufficiently talented or pretty. During that time she begins to learn complicated dance and musical routines that are as old, respected and as well known to the Japanese as Shakespeare.

    Once she is accepted into the school, she begins to live like a nun. She cannot have an iPhone, an iPad or any other electronic device to communicate with the outside world. She may not see her family, but is allowed occasionally to write them letters. She may not leave her dormitory without a chaperone. She is trained, not only in dance and music, but also in the art of conversation, etiquette, dress, make-up, art, literature, and any other subject that will be useful in her professional career. That career will be focused exclusively on entertaining men.

    From the time she is 16 years of age until about the age of 22 this regimen continues. During that time she is called a maiko, and her kimono is marked by a red sash around her neck under her kimono. Later as an advanced maiko, her sash will be white.

    When she is around 22 or 23 years of age she takes an examination, which, if she passes, earns her the title of geiko. At that point in her career, she is released from all of the old school rules and is considered an independent contractor, a professional geisha. She is not allowed to marry, but she may have a boyfriend. Indeed, it is permitted for a geisha to have a baby as long as she does not marry.

    A large number of young women leave the profession at this point to marry and raise a family. However, a few remain in the profession, and a very few emerge from this phase as a geisha superstar. Most geikos earn a decent living, as wealthy businessmen invite a team of three or more geikos to perform for their affluent male clients who come to visit Japan.

    Legally prostitution is forbidden in Japan, but in practice a wealthy businessman may engage a geiko for services beyond singing and dancing. In fact, a goal of the few geisha superstars is to hook a so-called “sugar daddy” to support her financially for life, to provide her with an apartment and to become his mistress.

    Whether one finds the custom acceptable or not, the geisha lifestyle is a lonely one. There is intense competition among the geikos, professionally, financially and personally throughout their lives. A geiko can have few friends.

    To us Westerners the contradictions in the geisha lifestyle seem enormous. But to the Japanese, it is simply a profession that is a respected cultural tradition.
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  • Silver Pavilion

    6月5日, 日本 ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Its official name is Higashiyama Jisho-ji Temple, and it is one of the sub-temples of Shokoku-ji Temple.
    It is said that the name Ginkaku-ji Temple came from the Edo period, when it was called Ginkaku-ji Temple in contrast to Kinkaku-ji Temple.(That is, it is called the “Silver Pavilion” in contrast to the “Golden Pavilion.”)
     It originated as the mountain villa Higashiyamadono, built by Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the eighth shogun of the Muromachi shogunate. After Yoshimasa's death, it became a Rinzai sect temple and was named Jisho-ji after Yoshimasa's posthumous Buddhist name, Jisho-in.
     Yoshimasa, who became head of the family at the age of nine and the Shogunate at the age of fifteen, spent his entire life projecting his entire aesthetic sense into the creation of a grand mountain villa that reflected the essence of Higashiyama culture in its simplicity and beauty.

    I suppose the thing that attracted us to it is simply that it has the most beautiful gardens that we’ve seen yet. The man who built it loved to see the moon, so there is a wonderful 8 foot high concrete cone, which he originally made out of sand. It is for the sole purpose of allowing him to view the moon more clearly. I know it does not have the prestige of the Golden Pavilion, but I think it is beautiful nonetheless.

    Coming back to the bus we did a little shopping. There’s a photo here of Bette buying a little bottle of sake. We went to a wonderful tempura restaurant that had shrimp a foot-long. I don’t know how they did it, but it was wonderful.
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  • Nijo-jo Castle—From Isolation to Empire

    6月4日, 日本 ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    To describe Japan’s last four centuries merely as tumultuous would be a profound understatement. Throughout this period, powerful shoguns vied relentlessly for territorial dominance. In many cases, rival armies clashed under the belief that they were each serving the will of the divine—yet silent—emperor.

    By the mid-19th century, the Tokugawa clan had emerged as the preeminent power in Japan. The military exploits of this formidable dynasty are dramatized in the recent Netflix series Shogun.

    For more than 300 years, Japan resisted virtually all Western influence. This period of isolation came to an abrupt end on July 8, 1853, when American Commodore Matthew Perry sailed into Tokyo Bay, compelling Japan to open itself to the broader world. Among the reforms imposed upon the shogunate was the restoration of the emperor as head of state. The final Tokugawa shogun had little choice but to abdicate.

    By that time, the primary Tokugawa residence had already been established in Tokyo—a palace that would later form the nucleus of the modern Imperial Palace, which the imperial family continues to occupy. However, one of the last grand Tokugawa palaces was constructed here in Kyoto, Japan’s ancient capital. That was the palace we visited today: the renowned Nijo-jo Castle.

    While photography of the palace interior is prohibited, the opulence of its design must be emphasized. Every surface—whether of wood, metal, or lacquer—is a masterpiece of artistry. The level of craftsmanship in the carvings, metalwork, and paintings is nothing short of astonishing.

    Our guide explained that the shogun was heavily insulated by layers of advisors. Only four members of his innermost circle were permitted to address him directly. Communications had to pass through successive ministers before reaching an official empowered to speak on the shogun’s behalf. Mannequins within the palace halls depict the abdication in 1867 of the last shogun, named Tokugawa Yoshinobu, offering visitors a vivid sense of the governance and protocol of the era.

    Without photographs, perhaps the closest comparison I can offer is to the richly decorated temple interiors we have visited elsewhere in Kyoto—though the rooms here are far grander and more elaborate. Traditional Japanese interiors employed minimal furniture. Chairs were absent; instead, individuals sat upon the floor. Tables were small, and the primary implements included portable oil lamps and cast-iron charcoal braziers—items that accompanied the shogunate from one palace to another.

    Exhibits throughout the palace also showcased court attire. Both men and women traditionally wore elaborate garments consisting of up to twelve layers of kimono.

    Much like late 19th-century China, Japan—after its centuries of seclusion—recognized that the Western world had far surpassed it in technological and industrial development. This realization was difficult to confront. In the years following Commodore Perry’s expedition, a small group of Japanese youths illegally traveled to Europe, where they witnessed the astonishing advancements of the West. Upon their return, they reported their findings. Their accounts spurred a national movement not merely to adopt Western practices, but to surpass them. Thus began a period of rapid modernization during which Japan embraced and refined Western technology, industrial methods, and military strategy—emerging by the 1930s as a global power.

    After Yoshinobu abdicated in 1867 and the shogunate was abolished, he was spared execution and allowed to retire. He later became a duke and a member of the House of Peers, engaging in various hobbies like painting and photography. Yoshinobu died in 1913. His successor, Iesato, also became a prominent public figure, serving in the House of Peers and was even considered for the role of prime minister. Although the formal structure of the government changed, the ancient traditions of samurai militarism, bushido and a figurehead emperor remained a part of Japanese culture, erupting in the campaigns of Generals Kanji Ishiwara and Hideki Tojo in the first half of the twentieth century.

    Our visit offered insight into the historical reverence once afforded to the emperor. Prior to World War II, the Japanese widely regarded their emperor as a divine being. Today, this belief has largely faded; the imperial family, like its British counterpart, is deeply respected and cherished, though no longer deified.

    Gardens surrounding the castle were open for exploration. We captured several beautiful images of the serene lake and landscaped grounds that encircle the castle.

    Today’s visit to Nijo-jo Castle was both inspiring and deeply informative. The Japanese people possess a rich and distinguished cultural heritage. Their capacity to adopt and improve upon foreign ideas and technologies is truly extraordinary.

    It was a privilege to explore this historic site and, through it, to gain a deeper understanding of this remarkable nation and its people.
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  • Golden Reflections: Kinkaku-ji Temple

    6月4日, 日本 ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    One of the true highlights of our Kyoto visit was Kinkaku-ji, better known as the Golden Pavilion. This stunning temple, covered in shimmering gold leaf, seems to float above its mirror-like pond—a sight that completely captivates visitors. The way the reflection changes with each passing cloud makes it feel alive.

    The site itself has a fascinating history. Originally the family villa of a wealthy Kyoto clan, it was taken over in 1397 by one of the shoguns, who built a palace around a central golden stupa. The estate became a hub for politics, religion, and culture. After the shogun’s death, he willed it to a local group of Buddhist monks. Today, it belongs to the Rinzai Zen Buddhist denomination and has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994.

    At the top of the hill stands a traditional tea house that taught me something I had never known. I used to think all Japanese homes were simple and minimalist inside—but I recently learned otherwise. Most modern Japanese apartments are actually quite small and packed with the same appliances, conveniences and furniture we have in our homes. The image of bare, paper-lined walls comes not from typical Japanese homes but from the traditional tea house. Families wealthy enough to own a decently-sized lot for their home sometimes build a tea house in their garden. Some families who have lived in the same home for generations have a tea house built a century ago that from the outside often looks like a weathered little shack—but inside, it’s a beautifully simple, serene space, perfect for the traditional Japanese tea ceremony.

    As we wandered the garden paths and watched the clouds drift over the Golden Pavilion, the scenery transformed moment by moment. The nearby waterfalls and winding mountain trails only added to the magic of the place.
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  • Bamboo Dreams—Hidden Temples

    6月4日, 日本 ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    If you want to escape Kyoto’s crowds for a bit, Daikaku-ji Temple is the place to go. Once an imperial villa, it became a sacred retreat way back in 876 A.D. Today it’s nestled beside Osawa-no-ike, one of Japan’s oldest man-made lakes. The setting is peaceful, and the reflection of the temple on the water is pure magic.

    It reminded me a little of the famous Golden Pavilion—except without the mobs of tourists and school kids! While the Golden Pavilion buzzes with selfie sticks and tour groups, Daikaku-ji flies under the radar. Aside from a small wedding going on (with a Buddhist priest presiding), we practically had the place to ourselves.

    There’s also a bamboo forest here that is not surrounded by the crowds. It’s a little smaller and a little quieter than the one at Tenryu-Ji. Not so spectacular. Not so showy. But quiet and full of wonder.
    もっと詳しく

  • The Beauty of Tenryu-ji

    6月4日, 日本 ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    If French artist Claude Monet were to paint a picture of heaven, it would look exactly like this place.

    Once an imperial villa, Tenryu-ji Temple became a sacred retreat way back in 876 A.D. Today it is one of Japan’s oldest and most prestigious temples. The setting is peaceful, and the reflection of the temple on the water is pure.

    One thing that really struck me: the way the Japanese embrace the beauty of age and weathering. They don’t let buildings fall apart, but they do appreciate an exterior with a bit of history in its bones. Just yesterday, on our way to the big Kyoto market, we passed at least a hundred shabby-looking gates—only to peek inside and spot the most exquisite little homes and gardens, perfectly tended with fountains, rocks, and delicate plants.

    I found a quiet corner, watched sunlight dance off the water and flicker through the towering bamboo, and could easily see why monks would come here to meditate.

    The star of Tenryu-ji Temple for me? The bamboo forest. And wow—this wasn’t your average patch of bamboo. Some of the trunks were 8 to 10 inches thick! (Fun fact: each joint marks a day of growth.) They made me think of Monet’s paintings—he was obsessed with bamboo and Oriental gardens. But trust me, what we saw today would’ve blown his mind. This was next-level bamboo—far bigger and denser than anything we saw at Monet’s Giverny estate in France

    I can imagine that for the Europeans, who discovered the orient in the late 19th century, this temple and its grounds would probably be about as close to heaven as anything they could imagine.
    もっと詳しく

  • A FANtastic afternoon

    6月3日, 日本 ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    After the morning at the museum, Chuck and I decided to venture off to the Nishiki Market. I had envisioned a place somewhat like a Middle Eastern souk, but this is the largest shopping area I’ve ever been in, and it reminded me of the largest outlet mall in the world on steroids.

    Nestled amid shops selling T-shirts and sunglasses and leather jackets were charming little shops by local vendors. There were hundreds of food stalls offering everything you can imagine from crêpes to ice cream to rabbit and sushi. We wandered around the whole shopping complex for about two hours.

    On our way back to the hotel we were walking down an alley and I saw a tiny shop with an old man seated on the floor. He was surrounded by paper and fabric and pieces of wood, and I realized that he was making fans. I love to collect fans from places around the world, and this looked like the perfect opportunity. His wife told me he had been hand-making fans for over 50 years. He spoke no English and she spoke just a little, but we were able to communicate well enough for me to buy a perfect little fan that she put in its own little case for me. His shop was located 500 steps from the place where the first folding hand fans were invented by Buddhists monks in 794 A.D. Finding this little shop and my perfect fan was worth a 15,934 steps we took this afternoon.
    もっと詳しく

  • A Capital Museum

    6月3日, 日本 ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    Right across the street from our hotel is the National Museum of Kyoto. This city has a special significance in the heart of the Japanese because until the Edo period a couple hundred years ago this was the ancient capital of Japan. It is still considered the spiritual capital. One shouldn’t be surprised to find that the National Museum here contains art treasures going back to prehistoric times. There is a special exhibit being shown for a celebration in Japan that is lasting throughout the year 2025. The theme of the presentation is how Japan’s art filtered out through the world and how the world’s art filtered into Japan. The mixing created a kind of melting pot in which oriental and occidental styles of art merged to produce something incredible. It was a very generous exhibit and took us well over an hour to walk through. The crowds were a bit challenging, as was the intense rainfall today, but we still had a delightfully enriching time. Unfortunately, except for one statue, photographs were forbidden inside the museum. But if you ever have a chance to visit here, don’t miss this wonderful repository of the most beautiful treasures of China and Japan.もっと詳しく

  • Arrived in Kyoto

    6月2日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    We were lost in the central train station in Kyoto, unable to find our way out.

    After several attempts to find the proper exit from the cavernous building, we finally found the taxi stand we were looking for. A pair of uniformed taxi drivers brought us here to the luxurious Hyatt Regency Hotel Kyoto.

    As we were checking in, our travel agent, Shane Lawrence and his wife Mika, came in from a fancy dinner at a Michelin five-star restaurant, and we had a little reunion right there in the lobby. This is a beautiful hotel and I’ll have more to say about it tomorrow. Right now, however, we’re just glad to be here finally. It’s almost midnight on June 2. We lost the day coming across the international dateline so we’ll have to make the most of the time we have here.
    もっと詳しく

  • Osaka

    6月2日, 日本 ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    We have landed in Osaka and are about to take the train into Kyoto. The lights came up in the airplane cabin about 4 AM Pacific time while we were still over the Pacific Ocean somewhere around the Philippines. We landed at Kansai airport at about 6:30 PM local time. I had slept about six hours and Glenda had watched four movies. One she watched twice (Wicked), so I guess that’s five. We are at the Kansai airport’s Japan railway station right now, waiting to take the high speed Haruka express into Kyoto.もっと詳しく

  • A Personal Journey

    6月1日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Obviously we are on a journey to Japan, and I’m delighted to have you with us. But I’m also on a personal journey, an inward journey as we travel to the orient. This post doesn’t deal specifically with any of the countries we’re visiting, so if you’re in a hurry, or just want to know about Japan, you may want to skip this long post. But if you love literature or writing, stick around. I’m having a small crisis in my life, and this trip provides me with the opportunity to conduct an important experiment. But first some background.

    All of my life I have loved writing, first with pen on paper, later with typewriter, with “word processors” when they were new, and most recently with my iMac and laptop computers. I have focused on penmanship since I got my first “B” in the fourth grade. I have carried a fountain pen (not a ballpoint) and notebook on all of the twenty-seven international trips I have taken since my first trip to Mexico in 1967.

    The act of physical writing has charmed my soul for more than 70 of my 75 years. My sister, who was three years older than I, came home each day when she was in the first grade and showed me the letters she had learned to write that day in school. I was writing sentences and sending letters to my grandma by the time I was four years old.

    It should come as no surprise, then, that love fountain pens. I have a small collection. Its oldest member is the pen Glenda’s grandmother used when she learned to write in 1920. I still use these pens daily for my personal journal. One of my most treasured pens is a Montblanc I bought from a lovely Korean salesclerk at the Joon Pen Shop in the World Trade Center a few years before its destruction changed our world. Every one of my fountain pens has a story behind it. Writing with them is for me almost a sacred act.

    The point I’m making is that the physical act of writing is important to me—possibly more important than it is to most people. I confess I’m a dinosaur. I admit it. I hang onto old fashions, customs and technology longer than most. I still even wear sport coats, suits, hats and neckties in appropriate situations. I flatter myself by thinking these habits are a mark of civility. It could be that I’m just weird.

    I like writing, and even typing on a keyboard. The process slows me down so that I actually have time to think not only about what I write, but also about how I am saying it. I have written four novels, none of which is published because I have been unsuccessful in getting an agent who will take them. They may, in fact, be unworthy of publication. I suppose current market trends determine such issues, but I learned in writing these stories that the people we call “writers” are not actually writers. They are composers. They are celebrated not because they can write but because they can compose tales that have interest, tension, universality and characterization. That process that we call “writing “ is actually composition. And the two skills are vastly different. Writing per se is not done by an author; it is done by a scribe or a copyist. An author composes. I love both pursuits, but they are two completely different skills, though each is necessary for the other.

    The world of literature and language, letters and writing, is changing. One of the airlines taking us to Japan has just reduced (again) the size and weight limits for carry-on luggage to ridiculously small dimensions. Consequently, I carry neither pen nor notebook to the land of the rising sun on this trip. I must have my iPhone anyhow, since it is required by airlines and governments for boarding passes and QR codes. My grand experiment is this. The only writing tool have with me is an iPhone. Because I hate typing long documents (like travel blogs) with my thumbs, my writing has now become dictation. The process feels less like composition than conversation. And I’m not used to it yet.

    About the time I was ready to consign the whole new dictating process to Dante’s eighth level of hell, the app providers came out with “artificial intelligence.” I had heard about it for a while, but only started playing with it last month. At first I thought, “Okay, I’ll type with my thumbs or dictate and let the AI-bot proofread and clean up the text. Maybe writing without really writing could still be an option for me.” I have found, though, that not only for editing, but for composing itself, artificial intelligence is good.

    Scary good.

    Glenda just read a novel which she will discuss at her next book club meeting. There is a particular character in the book whom she finds unbelievable. She asked our AI agent to write a college-level essay discussing the unrealistic elements of this character’s depiction in the novel. That’s all. She offered no suggestions. She provided no text, just that general prompt.

    In seven seconds our AI assistant produced a well-reasoned and well-written analysis. Were I her professor, I would give the student who wrote this essay an “A.”

    I love to write these posts on FindPenguins as we travel. I have not simply said to ChatGPT, Gemini or Claude-AI to “write a travel blog about Kyoto,” although it certainly could do so. And without question, its prose is better than mine. So far, for good or ill, everything I write here is still all my stuff. I can see, though, that artificial intelligence is a remarkable tool.

    And I am tempted.

    I’m amazed by it, and I welcome it even though I still have some misgivings. It makes me wonder whether much of my education is obsolete. I spent years developing good cursive penmanship, but when I got a typewriter, cursive became obsolete. Schools no longer teach cursive, and although there are a few parents who bemoan the loss, I do not. Cursive penmanship has been relegated to a small artistic niche of our culture. I accept that reality.

    The same process took place when personal calculators came on the scene. The computational skills we spent years learning were no longer necessary. My high school physics teacher flunked any student bringing a calculator to class in 1966. Conversely, I audited an undergraduate course in astrophysics after I retired in 2012. The professor threatened to flunk any student who did not bring a calculator to class.

    I am tempted to let the AI-bot write my blog, just as I was tempted to take a calculator to do my math for me in my high school physics class. Somehow, though, I still do not feel as though doing so would be quite legitimate or honest. I expect, however, that in a few years we will move to a situation like that of my astrophysics class where all calculations were done by machine. The teacher approved, indeed required, computations to be done by computer. In the near future all writing will be done by robot. Teachers will require it.

    I suppose I could put my question in very simple terms: I spent years learning to write cursive, and now cursive is obsolete. I spent years learning how to compute, and now manual computation is obsolete. I spent years learning to touch type, and now with computerized dictation, typing is obsolete. I spent my life learning how to think. Will thinking become obsolete? Fifty years from now will people be doing anything other than writing code?

    Now that we have these wonderful tools of artificial intelligence, we no longer need to study grammar or composition. It is hard to say whether these changes are good or bad for our culture. Perhaps if technology can do some of the drudge work, then we can spend more time with each other. And of course, if we still want to write with a fountain pen, play the piano or drive our own car (computers can do that now too), we are perfectly free to do so.

    On the other hand, one might ask whether we will actually enjoy the extra time spent in each other’s company if we no longer think, create or reason but let technology do all of that for us.

    I noticed on the airplane yesterday the woman sitting in front of me. She spent the five hours of the flight playing games over cell phone. The first couple of hours she played solitaire, and for the next few hours several games involving the completion of geometric figures or dice. We must be aware of the possibility that if we allow technology to do all of our thinking and creating, we may quickly become bored—and boring. Wouldn’t it be a disappointment to have more time to visit and talk with other people only to come to the vague awareness that there is no one home?

    But Pandora’s box is opened, and there is no way to shut it.

    So my experiment is underway. I will be writing without writing. I will be talking into a machine that will produce written text. But even this effort is unnecessary. I could simply tell AI to write my blog for me, and she would do it. I’ll let you know how it turns out.

    But I’m interested to know what you think. Are there processes in your life that technology is forcing (or allowing) you to change? Is this progress a good thing? I welcome any comments you wish to share.
    もっと詳しく

  • Glenda Finds a Unicorn

    5月31日, アメリカ ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    An overnight in LA isn’t usually on our Japan travel plan — normally we’d just push through. But tonight? It feels like a gift. After a bumpy ride from Charlotte to Los Angeles (decent meal, long day), we were more than ready to land and breathe. Cross-country flights just wear you out, no way around it.

    Our friend and travel wizard, Shane Lawrence, had booked us a room at the Hyatt Regency right next to LAX. It’s a great spot — pretty lobby, comfy room, exactly what we needed.

    You know that feeling when all you want is to kick back and do absolutely nothing? Yep, that’s me right now, stretched out and soaking it in.

    Glenda, though? Different story. She’s been in battle mode with her iPhone. We fly to Osaka tomorrow, but for days we haven’t been able to check in — the airline’s website has been acting as though it were demon-possessed. I must’ve tried close to a hundred times with no luck.

    And then… magic. Out of nowhere, Glenda cracked the code tonight and checked us both in! No idea how — maybe the travel gods smiled on her. We texted Shane (already in Japan), and he replied:

    “Looks like Glenda found a unicorn.”

    Sure did. Tomorrow’s looking a lot smoother — and yes, there will be a celebratory brunch in the airport lounge.

    Next stop: Osaka — with a little extra luck in our pockets.
    もっと詳しく

  • Caught by TSA

    5月31日, アメリカ ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    It’s 11:52 AM on Saturday and we’re on the way to the airport in Charlotte in heavy, speeding traffic. The tailgate of a truck ahead of us came loose and slid across the highway right into our path. Angela swerved to avoid it, but still ran over it with the tires on the right hand side of her Ford SUV. I hope her car was not damaged, although it made a frightful noise when we ran over it.

    About half an hour has passed. We are about to exit I-285 right now to go to the airport, but the traffic is backed up for miles.

    Two horrendous accidents on Interstate 85 brought traffic to a standstill. It took us almost an hour to travel the last 9 miles to the Charlotte airport.

    One result of the traffic accidents was that few cars were getting through to the airport. So when we came to the TSA checkpoint, no one was in line. It was totally empty. We stepped right up to the front.

    The trip through TSA is always interesting, and today was no exception. I had prepared myself as carefully as I could. I had already taken off my belt, put my passport away, emptied my pockets, prepared to remove my shoes and had done all those other things to eliminate any contraband items. I had been working for a week to pack things in a TSA kind of way. “Today,” I decided “I’m going to slip through TSA in 2 seconds flat. Today I will win this game.”

    The agent called me through the metal detector and everything seemed to be fine. He smiled and said, “You’re good. Go ahead.”

    “Yessss!” I thought. “I finally aced TSA.”

    As I turned to leave, a red light went off and a bell sounded. “Sir, he said I am sorry. You have been chosen for a random check.”

    “No problem,” I said. I had already safely deposited everything in the proper place in my 27-pocket Scott-e-Vest, hadn’t I? I was confident. I had prepared for this moment for weeks. However, upon entering the TSA pre-check line, in my rush I had quickly and thoughtlessly stashed my iPhone.

    Somewhere.

    He referred me to a female colleague who pleasantly recited her memorized instructions. “Sir, you have been chosen for a random check. I will need to swab your cell phone.”

    “Certainly,” I said, smiling. I reached into my pocket. No cell phone. Another pocket. No results. A flood of unhappy words rushed through my mind as I struggled to remember where I had stashed the blessed iPhone. I opened the main compartment of my backpack. No phone. I started to sweat.

    I started digging into my backpack for 30 seconds.

    A minute.

    A minute and a half.

    Still digging.

    I looked at the attendant. She kindly smiled, and I’m sure she could see that I was nervous. I was relieved that no one else was behind me. “Oh, yeah,” I thought. “The traffic.”

    Then I remembered.

    The pocket in the outside of my backpack. There was the phone.

    I gave it to her. She swabbed it, put the towelette in a machine, and in just a few seconds a green light on the machine sent me on my way.

    Ultimately this was an insignificant incident. It only delayed me a couple of minutes. But I have been through airline security screenings a couple of hundred times, at least. I know what they involve. I know how to prepare. And on this occasion, I was absolutely, totally ready. I had become a game for me, a contest I was well prepared to play. But I wanted to win. Nevertheless, at the last second I mindlessly stuck my phone where it doesn’t usually live, and I got caught. I These TSA agents were friendly and competent. They did their job well. But still, because of my carelessness, TSA rattled my cage.

    Again.

    So we are through with the hard part now, and we’re sitting here like pretty maids all in a row waiting to board the flight to Los Angeles. But just wait till next time.
    もっと詳しく

  • Bread for the Journey

    5月31日, アメリカ ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    It great to be back in my hometown of Charlotte to start our global journey. My sister in law welcomed us to Stacy’s where we gave her our keys and enjoyed our traditional meal together. Now we’re ready to head for the airport.もっと詳しく

  • Home Again

    2024年12月3日, アメリカ ⋅ 🌙 23 °F

    We arrived home safely from our trip Monday evening around 9:30 PM. By 10:15 pm we were in bed and we woke up this morning to the gift of a beautiful snowfall here in Asheboro. It is so good to travel the world and have adventures, but it is also very good to be home. Thanks for following us on our adventures.もっと詳しく

  • The Last Leg

    2024年12月2日, スペイン ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We have been through security and passport control at the Barcelona airport. Now we are sitting and resting comfortably in the beautiful VIP lounge. They have every type of food and beverage imaginable here, plus a reading area with all of the major newspapers and magazine to the world. Now it’s simply a matter of waiting for our flight and then heading home. It has been an extraordinary trip, but it’s always good to go home again.もっと詳しく

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