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 - Day 8
 - Saturday, June 7, 2025 at 7:23 AM
 - ☁️ 70 °F
 - Altitude: Sea level
 
 JapanKobe34°38’54” N  135°11’19” E
Landing in Kobe
 June 7 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
						
								Although there has been a settlement here since about 300 A.D., Kobe was not significant until about 150 years ago. What made it so important?
It was one of the first Japanese ports to open to the outside world after American Commodore Matthew Perry demanded in 1853 that the Japanese open their ports. The area around the Kobe port is called Meriken, which comes from the word American.
Rice is grown near here so this is a major area for sake production. It is different from that rice wine made in Kyoto. There the water is soft, and it makes the sake sweeter. The water here in Kobe has more minerals in it and so that sake is very dry. 
As we sailed in, Gil Dickson and I stood out on the veranda, looking at a Mitsubishi plant, which was a submarine factory in World War II. As we reached the inner Harbor, we saw the curved lines of the Oriental Hotel. From across the port, the curved lines of the Eclipse appear to be a shadow of the outline of the hotel. 
This area is not only an industrial center of Japan, but the agricultural area outside the city is also the home of Kobe beef. The cattle destined for the table are fed a special diet of grain. To increase their appetite they are also fed gallons of beer. The cows regularly have their tummies massaged, and are sometimes treated to classical music as they eat. The result is a steak with unusually consistent marbling, extraordinary tenderness, and a delicious flavor.🥩Read more
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 - Day 7
 - Friday, June 6, 2025 at 6:03 PM
 - ☁️ 75 °F
 - Altitude: 46 ft
 
 JapanOsaka34°39’26” N  135°25’51” E
The Sail-out
 June 6 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F
						
								You always get the most interesting photographs during the sail-out. We are now leaving the port of Osaka, and now we are on our way to Kobe for tomorrow’s exciting activities. I snapped a few photographs of the port which I hope you’ll enjoy.
I have packed more lightly for this trip than for any previous one, so I have to be very careful about doing my laundry often. Glenda has done yeoman’s work to get our laundry done today. We folded it and put it away so our state room is still very neat. Supper is next, and I think we’ll just miss tonight’s entertainment in the theater and have a quiet evening together.Read more
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 - Day 7
 - Friday, June 6, 2025 at 12:36 PM
 - ☁️ 79 °F
 - Altitude: 39 ft
 
 JapanOsaka34°39’25” N  135°25’51” E
Welcome Aboard
 June 6 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 79 °F
						
								We have arrived aboard the Scenic Eclipse II, and ever since, we have been treated like royalty. We quickly threw our gear into our stateroom because the crewman who led us to our room had already invited us for lunch at the Yacht Club Restaurant, just aft of our stateroom on Deck 7. 
I started snooping around and found the theater, the Elements Restaurant on deck 4, and the Observation Lounge at the front of the ship. At 4:15 we have a safety briefing, and sail-out should occur just after 6:00 pm. 
The ship is utterly beautiful, the food has been fantastic and we are all set to explore another part of this fascinating world.Read more
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 - Day 7
 - Friday, June 6, 2025 at 9:12 AM
 - ☀️ 75 °F
 - Altitude: 108 ft
 
 JapanKyoto34°59’19” N  135°46’19” E
Sanjusangendo
 June 6 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
						
								The name means “The temple of 37 bays.” I didn’t count them, but I’m sure it has at least 37. This building is extremely long, occupying a whole city block, and was built in the 13th century. It lies right next door to our hotel, and is the only temple in the world that houses over 2000 statues of the various manifestations of the Buddha. It is very old, very dark, and it reeked with the smell of sandalwood incense and a creepy feeling of the numinous. 
I haven’t quite figured out the connection, but each year there is an archery competition here. A priest anoints an arrow with holy water and touches the heads of a thousand worshippers who line up for anointing. This practice is believed to prevent headaches. Unfortunately, we were not able to take pictures inside, but the gardens outside are beautiful and I hope you’ll enjoy these shots.Read more
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 - Day 6
 - Thursday, June 5, 2025 at 4:11 PM
 - ☁️ 82 °F
 - Altitude: 131 ft
 
 JapanKyoto34°59’27” N  135°46’17” E
Tea, anyone?
 June 5 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F
						
								When somebody invites you for tea in Japan, they’re not just asking you to come to a regular tea party. I was attracted to the notion of the traditional Japanese tea ceremony, partly because of my respect for the Christian tradition of the Holy Eucharist. Both of them are highly stylized, highly ritualized meals.
There is a common misunderstanding about the Japanese tea ceremony. Some authors, even Japanese authors, find the long, detailed, ceremony abstruse. Yet today, a group of women took us through the Japanese tea ceremony, and it was a delightful experience.
Unlike most tea to which we’re accustomed, the Japanese drink Matcha, which consists of pulverized tea leaves mixed with boiling water. The flavor is very similar to the red tea we usually serve at our tables. However, the consistency is much thicker, about the same as buttermilk. 
The use of the hands, the position of the utensils, the location of the serving bowls, all have symbolic significance in the Japanese tea ceremony. Roles of server and guest are highly scripted, with traditional invitations and responses for server and guests memorized. Yet it is very courteous, very quiet—joyful, yet peaceful. It takes time. It cannot be rushed. 
Our 34 year-old tour guide told us that although she learned the tea ceremony in high school, she has never performed it at home. In fact, she said that she did not know any of her friends who had done it. “It’s a tradition,” she said, “reserved for old folks.” This may be a tradition which will soon pass out of use.
The last time we were in Kyoto, we participated in the tea ceremony in a Buddhist monastery. One of our shipmates asked the monk conducting the service, “How often do you do this ceremony? Is it just for birthdays, holidays or anniversaries?“
The monk responded, “No, it can be performed anytime. And it should be performed often. You see, the tea ceremony celebrates the fact that this moment is sacred. Never again will this group of people be gathered in this place for this ceremony. Even if we were to assemble the same group of people together for another tea ceremony, it would not be the same. The people would be different. They would have changed—just in the process of living. They will have had new experiences, new trials, maybe a different job or spouse. Even if the same group were assembled in the same room, another tea ceremony would not be the same. The tea ceremony,” he explained, “celebrates the holiness and the uniqueness of this moment in time.”
I’m a fan. 
The matron called for a volunteer to come up and prepare the tea after she had shown us how it was done. Shane volunteered me, so I went up and did it. I felt totally lost, but our patient mentors got me through it. I was honored. 
So even though you may not know the rules of a formal Japanese tea ceremony, why not invite a friend over for a quiet cup of tea and conversation? Put away the cell phone and the iPad for an hour. Allow no interruptions. BE with your friend. In doing this, you would have accomplished most of the purposes of the ceremony. You would be with another person in quiet, joyful communion. And after all, isn’t that really the best part of life?Read more
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 - Day 6
 - Thursday, June 5, 2025 at 12:59 PM
 - ☀️ 82 °F
 - Altitude: 138 ft
 
 JapanKyoto35°0’6” N  135°46’30” E
Geisha: Icon and Anomaly
 June 5 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F
						
								Geishas are different. 
The district of Gion in downtown Kyoto is the center of the geisha district of Japan. A museum here showcases the profession. 
The concept of the geisha is a cultural feature unique to Japan, and it is difficult for outsiders to understand it. A young girl about 14 to 16 years of age makes a commitment to be a geisha, either because she chooses it or because her family urges her to do so. She is enrolled in a boarding school with the strictest rules. She is on trial for one year, after which she may be released from the school if she is judged to be insufficiently talented or pretty. During that time she begins to learn complicated dance and musical routines that are as old, respected and as well known to the Japanese as Shakespeare. 
Once she is accepted into the school, she begins to live like a nun. She cannot have an iPhone, an iPad or any other electronic device to communicate with the outside world. She may not see her family, but is allowed occasionally to write them letters. She may not leave her dormitory without a chaperone. She is trained, not only in dance and music, but also in the art of conversation, etiquette, dress, make-up, art, literature, and any other subject that will be useful in her professional career. That career will be focused exclusively on entertaining men.
From the time she is 16 years of age until about the age of 22 this regimen continues. During that time she is called a maiko, and her kimono is marked by a red sash around her neck under her kimono. Later as an advanced maiko, her sash will be white.
When she is around 22 or 23 years of age she takes an examination, which, if she passes, earns her the title of geiko. At that point in her career, she is released from all of the old school rules and is considered an independent contractor, a professional geisha. She is not allowed to marry, but she may have a boyfriend. Indeed, it is permitted for a geisha to have a baby as long as she does not marry. 
A large number of young women leave the profession at this point to marry and raise a family. However, a few remain in the profession, and a very few emerge from this phase as a geisha superstar. Most geikos earn a decent living, as wealthy businessmen invite a team of three or more geikos to perform for their affluent male clients who come to visit Japan.
Legally prostitution is forbidden in Japan, but in practice a wealthy businessman may engage a geiko for services beyond singing and dancing. In fact, a goal of the few geisha superstars is to hook a so-called “sugar daddy” to support her financially for life, to provide her with an apartment and to become his mistress. 
Whether one finds the custom acceptable or not, the geisha lifestyle is a lonely one. There is intense competition among the geikos, professionally, financially and personally throughout their lives. A geiko can have few friends. 
To us Westerners the contradictions in the geisha lifestyle seem enormous. But to the Japanese, it is simply a profession that is a respected cultural tradition.Read more
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 - Day 6
 - Thursday, June 5, 2025 at 10:36 AM
 - ☀️ 75 °F
 - Altitude: 322 ft
 
 JapanKyoto35°1’35” N  135°47’54” E
Silver Pavilion
 June 5 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F
						
								Its official name is Higashiyama Jisho-ji Temple, and it is one of the sub-temples of Shokoku-ji Temple.
It is said that the name Ginkaku-ji Temple came from the Edo period, when it was called Ginkaku-ji Temple in contrast to Kinkaku-ji Temple.(That is, it is called the “Silver Pavilion” in contrast to the “Golden Pavilion.”)
 It originated as the mountain villa Higashiyamadono, built by Ashikaga Yoshimasa, the eighth shogun of the Muromachi shogunate. After Yoshimasa's death, it became a Rinzai sect temple and was named Jisho-ji after Yoshimasa's posthumous Buddhist name, Jisho-in.
 Yoshimasa, who became head of the family at the age of nine and the Shogunate at the age of fifteen, spent his entire life projecting his entire aesthetic sense into the creation of a grand mountain villa that reflected the essence of Higashiyama culture in its simplicity and beauty.
I suppose the thing that attracted us to it is simply that it has the most beautiful gardens that we’ve seen yet. The man who built it loved to see the moon, so there is a wonderful 8 foot high concrete cone, which he originally made out of sand. It is for the sole purpose of allowing him to view the moon more clearly. I know it does not have the prestige of the Golden Pavilion, but I think it is beautiful nonetheless.
Coming back to the bus we did a little shopping. There’s a photo here of Bette buying a little bottle of sake. We went to a wonderful tempura restaurant that had shrimp a foot-long. I don’t know how they did it, but it was wonderful.Read more
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 - Day 5
 - Wednesday, June 4, 2025 at 3:14 PM
 - ☀️ 79 °F
 - Altitude: 141 ft
 
 JapanKyoto35°0’46” N  135°45’1” E
Nijo-jo Castle—From Isolation to Empire
 June 4 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F
						
								To describe Japan’s last four centuries merely as tumultuous would be a profound understatement. Throughout this period, powerful shoguns vied relentlessly for territorial dominance. In many cases, rival armies clashed under the belief that they were each serving the will of the divine—yet silent—emperor.
By the mid-19th century, the Tokugawa clan had emerged as the preeminent power in Japan. The military exploits of this formidable dynasty are dramatized in the recent Netflix series Shogun.
For more than 300 years, Japan resisted virtually all Western influence. This period of isolation came to an abrupt end on July 8, 1853, when American Commodore Matthew Perry sailed into Tokyo Bay, compelling Japan to open itself to the broader world. Among the reforms imposed upon the shogunate was the restoration of the emperor as head of state. The final Tokugawa shogun had little choice but to abdicate.
By that time, the primary Tokugawa residence had already been established in Tokyo—a palace that would later form the nucleus of the modern Imperial Palace, which the imperial family continues to occupy. However, one of the last grand Tokugawa palaces was constructed here in Kyoto, Japan’s ancient capital. That was the palace we visited today: the renowned Nijo-jo Castle.
While photography of the palace interior is prohibited, the opulence of its design must be emphasized. Every surface—whether of wood, metal, or lacquer—is a masterpiece of artistry. The level of craftsmanship in the carvings, metalwork, and paintings is nothing short of astonishing.
Our guide explained that the shogun was heavily insulated by layers of advisors. Only four members of his innermost circle were permitted to address him directly. Communications had to pass through successive ministers before reaching an official empowered to speak on the shogun’s behalf. Mannequins within the palace halls depict the abdication in 1867 of the last shogun, named Tokugawa Yoshinobu, offering visitors a vivid sense of the governance and protocol of the era.
Without photographs, perhaps the closest comparison I can offer is to the richly decorated temple interiors we have visited elsewhere in Kyoto—though the rooms here are far grander and more elaborate. Traditional Japanese interiors employed minimal furniture. Chairs were absent; instead, individuals sat upon the floor. Tables were small, and the primary implements included portable oil lamps and cast-iron charcoal braziers—items that accompanied the shogunate from one palace to another.
Exhibits throughout the palace also showcased court attire. Both men and women traditionally wore elaborate garments consisting of up to twelve layers of kimono.
Much like late 19th-century China, Japan—after its centuries of seclusion—recognized that the Western world had far surpassed it in technological and industrial development. This realization was difficult to confront. In the years following Commodore Perry’s expedition, a small group of Japanese youths illegally traveled to Europe, where they witnessed the astonishing advancements of the West. Upon their return, they reported their findings. Their accounts spurred a national movement not merely to adopt Western practices, but to surpass them. Thus began a period of rapid modernization during which Japan embraced and refined Western technology, industrial methods, and military strategy—emerging by the 1930s as a global power.
After Yoshinobu abdicated in 1867 and the shogunate was abolished, he was spared execution and allowed to retire. He later became a duke and a member of the House of Peers, engaging in various hobbies like painting and photography. Yoshinobu died in 1913. His successor, Iesato, also became a prominent public figure, serving in the House of Peers and was even considered for the role of prime minister. Although the formal structure of the government changed, the ancient traditions of samurai militarism, bushido and a figurehead emperor remained a part of Japanese culture, erupting in the campaigns of Generals Kanji Ishiwara and Hideki Tojo in the first half of the twentieth century. 
Our visit offered insight into the historical reverence once afforded to the emperor. Prior to World War II, the Japanese widely regarded their emperor as a divine being. Today, this belief has largely faded; the imperial family, like its British counterpart, is deeply respected and cherished, though no longer deified.
Gardens surrounding the castle were open for exploration. We captured several beautiful images of the serene lake and landscaped grounds that encircle the castle.
Today’s visit to Nijo-jo Castle was both inspiring and deeply informative. The Japanese people possess a rich and distinguished cultural heritage. Their capacity to adopt and improve upon foreign ideas and technologies is truly extraordinary.
It was a privilege to explore this historic site and, through it, to gain a deeper understanding of this remarkable nation and its people.Read more
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 - Day 5
 - Wednesday, June 4, 2025 at 2:09 PM
 - ☀️ 77 °F
 - Altitude: 325 ft
 
 JapanKyoto35°2’20” N  135°43’44” E
Golden Reflections: Kinkaku-ji Temple
 June 4 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F
						
								One of the true highlights of our Kyoto visit was Kinkaku-ji, better known as the Golden Pavilion. This stunning temple, covered in shimmering gold leaf, seems to float above its mirror-like pond—a sight that completely captivates visitors. The way the reflection changes with each passing cloud makes it feel alive.
The site itself has a fascinating history. Originally the family villa of a wealthy Kyoto clan, it was taken over in 1397 by one of the shoguns, who built a palace around a central golden stupa. The estate became a hub for politics, religion, and culture. After the shogun’s death, he willed it to a local group of Buddhist monks. Today, it belongs to the Rinzai Zen Buddhist denomination and has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1994.
At the top of the hill stands a traditional tea house that taught me something I had never known. I used to think all Japanese homes were simple and minimalist inside—but I recently learned otherwise. Most modern Japanese apartments are actually quite small and packed with the same appliances, conveniences and furniture we have in our homes. The image of bare, paper-lined walls comes not from typical Japanese homes but from the traditional tea house. Families wealthy enough to own a decently-sized lot for their home sometimes build a tea house in their garden. Some families who have lived in the same home for generations have a tea house built a century ago that from the outside often looks like a weathered little shack—but inside, it’s a beautifully simple, serene space, perfect for the traditional Japanese tea ceremony.
As we wandered the garden paths and watched the clouds drift over the Golden Pavilion, the scenery transformed moment by moment. The nearby waterfalls and winding mountain trails only added to the magic of the place.Read more
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 - Day 5
 - Wednesday, June 4, 2025 at 1:19 PM
 - ☀️ 77 °F
 - Altitude: 217 ft
 
 JapanKyoto35°1’47” N  135°40’48” E
Bamboo Dreams—Hidden Temples
 June 4 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F
						
								If you want to escape Kyoto’s crowds for a bit, Daikaku-ji Temple is the place to go. Once an imperial villa, it became a sacred retreat way back in 876 A.D. Today it’s nestled beside Osawa-no-ike, one of Japan’s oldest man-made lakes. The setting is peaceful, and the reflection of the temple on the water is pure magic.
It reminded me a little of the famous Golden Pavilion—except without the mobs of tourists and school kids! While the Golden Pavilion buzzes with selfie sticks and tour groups, Daikaku-ji flies under the radar. Aside from a small wedding going on (with a Buddhist priest presiding), we practically had the place to ourselves.
There’s also a bamboo forest here that is not surrounded by the crowds. It’s a little smaller and a little quieter than the one at Tenryu-Ji. Not so spectacular. Not so showy. But quiet and full of wonder.Read more
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 - Day 5
 - Wednesday, June 4, 2025 at 10:30 AM
 - ☀️ 73 °F
 - Altitude: 135 ft
 
 JapanKyoto35°0’57” N  135°40’27” E
The Beauty of Tenryu-ji
 June 4 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F
						
								If French artist Claude Monet were to paint a picture of heaven, it would look exactly like this place. 
Once an imperial villa, Tenryu-ji Temple became a sacred retreat way back in 876 A.D. Today it is one of Japan’s oldest and most prestigious temples. The setting is peaceful, and the reflection of the temple on the water is pure.
One thing that really struck me: the way the Japanese embrace the beauty of age and weathering. They don’t let buildings fall apart, but they do appreciate an exterior with a bit of history in its bones. Just yesterday, on our way to the big Kyoto market, we passed at least a hundred shabby-looking gates—only to peek inside and spot the most exquisite little homes and gardens, perfectly tended with fountains, rocks, and delicate plants.
I found a quiet corner, watched sunlight dance off the water and flicker through the towering bamboo, and could easily see why monks would come here to meditate.
The star of Tenryu-ji Temple for me? The bamboo forest. And wow—this wasn’t your average patch of bamboo. Some of the trunks were 8 to 10 inches thick! (Fun fact: each joint marks a day of growth.) They made me think of Monet’s paintings—he was obsessed with bamboo and Oriental gardens. But trust me, what we saw today would’ve blown his mind. This was next-level bamboo—far bigger and denser than anything we saw at Monet’s Giverny estate in France
I can imagine that for the Europeans, who discovered the orient in the late 19th century, this temple and its grounds would probably be about as close to heaven as anything they could imagine.Read more
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 - Day 4
 - Tuesday, June 3, 2025 at 1:54 PM
 - 🌧 66 °F
 - Altitude: 121 ft
 
 JapanKyoto34°59’22” N  135°46’12” E
A FANtastic afternoon
 June 3 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 66 °F
						
								After the morning at the museum, Chuck and I decided to venture off to the Nishiki Market. I had envisioned a place somewhat like a Middle Eastern souk, but this is the largest shopping area I’ve ever been in, and it reminded me of the largest outlet mall in the world on steroids. 
Nestled amid shops selling T-shirts and sunglasses and leather jackets were charming little shops by local vendors. There were hundreds of food stalls offering everything you can imagine from crêpes to ice cream to rabbit and sushi. We wandered around the whole shopping complex for about two hours.
On our way back to the hotel we were walking down an alley and I saw a tiny shop with an old man seated on the floor. He was surrounded by paper and fabric and pieces of wood, and I realized that he was making fans. I love to collect fans from places around the world, and this looked like the perfect opportunity. His wife told me he had been hand-making fans for over 50 years. He spoke no English and she spoke just a little, but we were able to communicate well enough for me to buy a perfect little fan that she put in its own little case for me. His shop was located 500 steps from the place where the first folding hand fans were invented by Buddhists monks in 794 A.D. Finding this little shop and my perfect fan was worth a 15,934 steps we took this afternoon.Read more
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 - Day 4
 - Tuesday, June 3, 2025 at 11:33 AM
 - 🌧 64 °F
 - Altitude: 144 ft
 
 JapanKyoto34°59’26” N  135°46’21” E
A Capital Museum
 June 3 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 64 °F
						Right across the street from our hotel is the National Museum of Kyoto. This city has a special significance in the heart of the Japanese because until the Edo period a couple hundred years ago this was the ancient capital of Japan. It is still considered the spiritual capital. One shouldn’t be surprised to find that the National Museum here contains art treasures going back to prehistoric times. There is a special exhibit being shown for a celebration in Japan that is lasting throughout the year 2025. The theme of the presentation is how Japan’s art filtered out through the world and how the world’s art filtered into Japan. The mixing created a kind of melting pot in which oriental and occidental styles of art merged to produce something incredible. It was a very generous exhibit and took us well over an hour to walk through. The crowds were a bit challenging, as was the intense rainfall today, but we still had a delightfully enriching time. Unfortunately, except for one statue, photographs were forbidden inside the museum. But if you ever have a chance to visit here, don’t miss this wonderful repository of the most beautiful treasures of China and Japan.Read more

Chuck CookThis is the only exhibit which we were allowed to photograph. It depicts an illustrious Boddhisatva (whose name I don’t recall) revealing the true Buddha within his soul. I took two years of Comparative Religion under Dr. Braswell, who was an expert in Mahayana and Hinayama Buddhism. Love to meet with you over coffee sometime to discuss what I remember about the human incarnations of the Buddha in living Boddhisatvas. Fascinating!

TravelerWoud love to see the fan you choose to purchase. They all look so beautiful. Loving your and Chucks post. Seems like just yesterday we were together. On a side note, Mikes family have relocated to Raleigh. Not sure when we will be out but will touch base for sure. Off to Iceland, Norway and British Isles in September on the Mars.
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 - Day 3
 - Monday, June 2, 2025 at 10:07 PM
 - ☁️ 70 °F
 - Altitude: 217 ft
 
 JapanKyoto34°59’10” N  135°45’33” E
Arrived in Kyoto
 June 2 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F
						
								We were lost in the central train station in Kyoto, unable to find our way out. 
After several attempts to find the proper exit from the cavernous building, we finally found the taxi stand we were looking for. A pair of uniformed taxi drivers brought us here to the luxurious Hyatt Regency Hotel Kyoto. 
As we were checking in, our travel agent, Shane Lawrence and his wife Mika, came in from a fancy dinner at a Michelin five-star restaurant, and we had a little reunion right there in the lobby. This is a beautiful hotel and I’ll have more to say about it tomorrow. Right now, however, we’re just glad to be here finally. It’s almost midnight on June 2. We lost the day coming across the international dateline so we’ll have to make the most of the time we have here.Read more
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 - Day 3
 - Monday, June 2, 2025 at 7:48 PM
 - ☁️ 72 °F
 - Altitude: 43 ft
 
 JapanTajiri34°26’10” N  135°14’36” E
Osaka
 June 2 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
						We have landed in Osaka and are about to take the train into Kyoto. The lights came up in the airplane cabin about 4 AM Pacific time while we were still over the Pacific Ocean somewhere around the Philippines. We landed at Kansai airport at about 6:30 PM local time. I had slept about six hours and Glenda had watched four movies. One she watched twice (Wicked), so I guess that’s five. We are at the Kansai airport’s Japan railway station right now, waiting to take the high speed Haruka express into Kyoto.Read more
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 - Day 2
 - Sunday, June 1, 2025 at 11:44 AM
 - ☁️ 77 °F
 - Altitude: 144 ft
 
 United StatesLos Angeles33°56’38” N  118°24’34” W
A Personal Journey
 June 1 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F
						
								Obviously we are on a journey to Japan, and I’m delighted to have you with us. But I’m also on a personal journey, an inward journey as we travel to the orient. This post doesn’t deal specifically with any of the countries we’re visiting, so if you’re in a hurry, or just want to know about Japan, you may want to skip this long post. But if you love literature or writing, stick around. I’m having a small crisis in my life, and this trip provides me with the opportunity to conduct an important experiment. But first some background. 
All of my life I have loved writing, first with pen on paper, later with typewriter, with “word processors” when they were new, and most recently with my iMac and laptop computers. I have focused on penmanship since I got my first “B” in the fourth grade. I have carried a fountain pen (not a ballpoint) and notebook on all of the twenty-seven international trips I have taken since my first trip to Mexico in 1967. 
The act of physical writing has charmed my soul for more than 70 of my 75 years. My sister, who was three years older than I, came home each day when she was in the first grade and showed me the letters she had learned to write that day in school. I was writing sentences and sending letters to my grandma by the time I was four years old. 
It should come as no surprise, then, that love fountain pens. I have a small collection. Its oldest member is the pen Glenda’s grandmother used when she learned to write in 1920. I still use these pens daily for my personal journal. One of my most treasured pens is a Montblanc I bought from a lovely Korean salesclerk at the Joon Pen Shop in the World Trade Center a few years before its destruction changed our world. Every one of my fountain pens has a story behind it. Writing with them is for me almost a sacred act. 
The point I’m making is that the physical act of writing is important to me—possibly more important than it is to most people. I confess I’m a dinosaur. I admit it. I hang onto old fashions, customs and technology longer than most. I still even wear sport coats, suits, hats and neckties in appropriate situations. I flatter myself by thinking these habits are a mark of civility. It could be that I’m just weird. 
I like writing, and even typing on a keyboard. The process slows me down so that I actually have time to think not only about what I write, but also about how I am saying it. I have written four novels, none of which is published because I have been unsuccessful in getting an agent who will take them. They may, in fact, be unworthy of publication. I suppose current market trends determine such issues, but I learned in writing these stories that the people we call “writers” are not actually writers. They are composers. They are celebrated not because they can write but because they can compose tales that have interest, tension, universality and characterization. That process that we call “writing “ is actually composition. And the two skills are vastly different. Writing per se is not done by an author; it is done by a scribe or a copyist. An author composes. I love both pursuits, but they are two completely different skills, though each is necessary for the other. 
The world of literature and language, letters and writing, is changing. One of the airlines taking us to Japan has just reduced (again) the size and weight limits for carry-on luggage to ridiculously small dimensions. Consequently, I carry neither pen nor notebook to the land of the rising sun on this trip. I must have my iPhone anyhow, since it is required by airlines and governments for boarding passes and QR codes. My grand experiment is this. The only writing tool have with me is an iPhone. Because I hate typing long documents (like travel blogs) with my thumbs, my writing has now become dictation. The process feels less like composition than conversation. And I’m not used to it yet. 
About the time I was ready to consign the whole new dictating process to Dante’s eighth level of hell, the app providers came out with “artificial intelligence.” I had heard about it for a while, but only started playing with it last month. At first I thought, “Okay, I’ll type with my thumbs or dictate and let the AI-bot proofread and clean up the text. Maybe writing without really writing could still be an option for me.” I have found, though, that not only for editing, but for composing itself, artificial intelligence is good. 
Scary good. 
Glenda just read a novel which she will discuss at her next book club meeting. There is a particular character in the book whom she finds unbelievable. She asked our AI agent to write a college-level essay discussing the unrealistic elements of this character’s depiction in the novel. That’s all. She offered no suggestions. She provided no text, just that general prompt. 
In seven seconds our AI assistant produced a well-reasoned and well-written analysis. Were I her professor, I would give the student who wrote this essay an “A.”
I love to write these posts on FindPenguins as we travel. I have not simply said to ChatGPT, Gemini or Claude-AI to “write a travel blog about Kyoto,” although it certainly could do so. And without question, its prose is better than mine. So far, for good or ill, everything I write here is still all my stuff. I can see, though, that artificial intelligence is a remarkable tool. 
And I am tempted. 
I’m amazed by it, and I welcome it even though I still have some misgivings. It makes me wonder whether much of my education is obsolete. I spent years developing good cursive penmanship, but when I got a typewriter, cursive became obsolete. Schools no longer teach cursive, and although there are a few parents who bemoan the loss, I do not. Cursive penmanship has been relegated to a small artistic niche of our culture. I accept that reality. 
The same process took place when personal calculators came on the scene. The computational skills we spent years learning were no longer necessary. My high school physics teacher flunked any student bringing a calculator to class in 1966. Conversely, I audited an undergraduate course in astrophysics after I retired in 2012. The professor threatened to flunk any student who did not bring a calculator to class. 
I am tempted to let the AI-bot write my blog, just as I was tempted to take a calculator to do my math for me in my high school physics class. Somehow, though, I still do not feel as though doing so would be quite legitimate or honest. I expect, however, that in a few years we will move to a situation like that of my astrophysics class where all calculations were done by machine. The teacher approved, indeed required, computations to be done by computer. In the near future all writing will be done by robot. Teachers will require it. 
I suppose I could put my question in very simple terms: I spent years learning to write cursive, and now cursive is obsolete. I spent years learning how to compute, and now manual computation is obsolete. I spent years learning to touch type, and now with computerized dictation, typing is obsolete. I spent my life learning how to think. Will thinking become obsolete? Fifty years from now will people be doing anything other than writing code?
Now that we have these wonderful tools of artificial intelligence, we no longer need to study grammar or composition. It is hard to say whether these changes are good or bad for our culture. Perhaps if technology can do some of the drudge work, then we can spend more time with each other. And of course, if we still want to write with a fountain pen, play the piano or drive our own car (computers can do that now too), we are perfectly free to do so. 
On the other hand, one might ask whether we will actually enjoy the extra time spent in each other’s company if we no longer think, create or reason but let technology do all of that for us. 
I noticed on the airplane yesterday the woman sitting in front of me. She spent the five hours of the flight playing games over cell phone. The first couple of hours she played solitaire, and for the next few hours several games involving the completion of geometric figures or dice. We must be aware of the possibility that if we allow technology to do all of our thinking and creating, we may quickly become bored—and boring. Wouldn’t it be a disappointment to have more time to visit and talk with other people only to come to the vague awareness that there is no one home?
But Pandora’s box is opened, and there is no way to shut it.
So my experiment is underway. I will be writing without writing. I will be talking into a machine that will produce written text. But even this effort is unnecessary. I could simply tell AI to write my blog for me, and she would do it. I’ll let you know how it turns out. 
But I’m interested to know what you think. Are there processes in your life that technology is forcing (or allowing) you to change? Is this progress a good thing? I welcome any comments you wish to share.Read more

TravelerThanks for your thoughts on this. You do have the best handwriting of any one I know. I just returned from my trip with the bishop to Greece. I used my thumbs to comment on my photos, but I wrote in my travel journal as we drove from place to place. It’s hardly legible! But I’ll most likely be the only one who reads it anyway. I have not yet ventured to experiment with AI. My technical skills peaked in the 1990’s! I did enjoy the cruise, my first. It’s nice not to have to worry about renting a car and finding parking spaces, or having to reserve hotels, or site tickets. Do it yourself has its advantages but it was nice to not have to worry about it. Keep posting! Gayla

Chuck CookThanks for the response Gayla. Yes, we also found, cruising to be a very convenient way of seeing the world. We cruise to get an overview of an area, and then go back to spend several days in the locations we find most interesting. Great to hear from you. Hope you continue to travel and to share the news about your journeys.

TravelerHi Chuck. ever since I had a handheld phone I found I was constant fodder for the recipients of my texts. I should have used spell check in the beginning, then along came the text options for the phone to assume what you were typing. My life was hectic in those days as a Real Estate Agent, and I felt compelled to respond quickly to client communication with me. I was not good at reviewing the text before I sent my message. Some people would have to guess my intentions with the words, and others who are detail oriented found my communication challenging. While I have not investigated AI as of yet, from what I know it would have served me well during that period of my life. I didn't really get the hang of reviewing my responses, until recently, when I have been trying to use my "thumbs". Much slower so I have time to review, and frankly, the people I communicate with now, are mostly family and friends (who by the way remember my old lack of skills in this area, and continue to Love me for my lack of attention to detail.) Love your posts, your prose is always so thoughtful. Can't wait to hear

Chuck CookThanks for this thoughtful response. I suppose every mode of communication has its advantaged disadvantages. The art lies in selecting the one with the most beneficial trade-off.
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 - Day 1
 - Saturday, May 31, 2025 at 6:07 PM
 - ☁️ 72 °F
 - Altitude: 180 ft
 
 United StatesLos Angeles33°56’45” N  118°23’42” W
Glenda Finds a Unicorn
 May 31 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F
						
								An overnight in LA isn’t usually on our Japan travel plan — normally we’d just push through. But tonight? It feels like a gift. After a bumpy ride from Charlotte to Los Angeles (decent meal, long day), we were more than ready to land and breathe. Cross-country flights just wear you out, no way around it.
Our friend and travel wizard, Shane Lawrence, had booked us a room at the Hyatt Regency right next to LAX. It’s a great spot — pretty lobby, comfy room, exactly what we needed.
You know that feeling when all you want is to kick back and do absolutely nothing? Yep, that’s me right now, stretched out and soaking it in.
Glenda, though? Different story. She’s been in battle mode with her iPhone. We fly to Osaka tomorrow, but for days we haven’t been able to check in — the airline’s website has been acting as though it were demon-possessed. I must’ve tried close to a hundred times with no luck.
And then… magic. Out of nowhere, Glenda cracked the code tonight and checked us both in! No idea how — maybe the travel gods smiled on her. We texted Shane (already in Japan), and he replied:
“Looks like Glenda found a unicorn.”
Sure did. Tomorrow’s looking a lot smoother — and yes, there will be a celebratory brunch in the airport lounge.
Next stop: Osaka — with a little extra luck in our pockets.Read more
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 - Day 1
 - Saturday, May 31, 2025 at 10:00 AM
 - ☀️ 66 °F
 - Altitude: 728 ft
 
 United StatesCharlotte35°13’8” N  80°56’42” W
Caught by TSA
 May 31 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
						
								It’s 11:52 AM on Saturday and we’re on the way to the airport in Charlotte in heavy, speeding traffic. The tailgate of a truck ahead of us came loose and slid across the highway right into our path. Angela swerved to avoid it, but still ran over it with the tires on the right hand side of her Ford SUV. I hope her car was not damaged, although it made a frightful noise when we ran over it. 
About half an hour has passed. We are about to exit I-285 right now to go to the airport, but the traffic is backed up for miles. 
Two horrendous accidents on Interstate 85 brought traffic to a standstill. It took us almost an hour to travel the last 9 miles to the Charlotte airport.
One result of the traffic accidents was that few cars were getting through to the airport. So when we came to the TSA checkpoint, no one was in line. It was totally empty. We stepped right up to the front.
The trip through TSA is always interesting, and today was no exception. I had prepared myself as carefully as I could. I had already taken off my belt, put my passport away, emptied my pockets, prepared to remove my shoes and had done all those other things to eliminate any contraband items. I had been working for a week to pack things in a TSA kind of way. “Today,” I decided “I’m going to slip through TSA in 2 seconds flat. Today I will win this game.”
The agent called me through the metal detector and everything seemed to be fine. He smiled and said, “You’re good. Go ahead.”
“Yessss!” I thought. “I finally aced TSA.”
As I turned to leave, a red light went off and a bell sounded. “Sir, he said I am sorry. You have been chosen for a random check.”
“No problem,” I said. I had already safely deposited everything in the proper place in my 27-pocket Scott-e-Vest, hadn’t I? I was confident. I had prepared for this moment for weeks. However, upon entering the TSA pre-check line, in my rush I had quickly and thoughtlessly stashed my iPhone.
Somewhere. 
He referred me to a female colleague who pleasantly recited her memorized instructions. “Sir, you have been chosen for a random check. I will need to swab your cell phone.”
“Certainly,” I said, smiling. I reached into my pocket. No cell phone. Another pocket. No results. A flood of unhappy words rushed through my mind as I struggled to remember where I had stashed the blessed iPhone. I opened the main compartment of my backpack. No phone. I started to sweat. 
I started digging into my backpack for 30 seconds. 
A minute.
A minute and a half.
Still digging. 
I looked at the attendant. She kindly smiled, and I’m sure she could see that I was nervous. I was relieved that no one else was behind me. “Oh, yeah,” I thought. “The traffic.”
Then I remembered. 
The pocket in the outside of my backpack. There was the phone. 
I gave it to her. She swabbed it, put the towelette in a machine, and in just a few seconds a green light on the machine sent me on my way. 
Ultimately this was an insignificant incident. It only delayed me a couple of minutes. But I have been through airline security screenings a couple of hundred times, at least. I know what they involve. I know how to prepare. And on this occasion, I was absolutely, totally ready. I had become a game for me, a contest I was well prepared to play. But I wanted to win. Nevertheless, at the last second I mindlessly stuck my phone where it doesn’t usually live, and I got caught. I These TSA agents were friendly and competent. They did their job well. But still, because of my carelessness, TSA rattled my cage. 
Again.
So we are through with the hard part now, and we’re sitting here like pretty maids all in a row waiting to board the flight to Los Angeles. But just wait till next time.Read more
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 - Day 1
 - Saturday, May 31, 2025 at 7:07 AM
 - ☀️ 57 °F
 - Altitude: 906 ft
 
 United StatesLincoln County35°31’55” N  81°1’50” W
Bread for the Journey
 May 31 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F
						It great to be back in my hometown of Charlotte to start our global journey. My sister in law welcomed us to Stacy’s where we gave her our keys and enjoyed our traditional meal together. Now we’re ready to head for the airport.Read more
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 - Day 24
 - Tuesday, December 3, 2024 at 6:47 AM
 - 🌙 23 °F
 - Altitude: 636 ft
 
 United StatesLong Branch35°43’30” N  79°51’9” W
Home Again
 December 3, 2024 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 23 °F
						We arrived home safely from our trip Monday evening around 9:30 PM. By 10:15 pm we were in bed and we woke up this morning to the gift of a beautiful snowfall here in Asheboro. It is so good to travel the world and have adventures, but it is also very good to be home. Thanks for following us on our adventures.Read more
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 - Day 23
 - Monday, December 2, 2024 at 9:18 AM
 - ☁️ 54 °F
 - Altitude: 56 ft
 
 SpainBarcelona–El Prat Airport41°17’18” N  2°4’25” E
The Last Leg
 December 2, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F
						We have been through security and passport control at the Barcelona airport. Now we are sitting and resting comfortably in the beautiful VIP lounge. They have every type of food and beverage imaginable here, plus a reading area with all of the major newspapers and magazine to the world. Now it’s simply a matter of waiting for our flight and then heading home. It has been an extraordinary trip, but it’s always good to go home again.Read more
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 - Day 22
 - Sunday, December 1, 2024 at 10:12 AM
 - ☁️ 55 °F
 - Altitude: 102 ft
 
 SpainTemple Expiatori de la Sagrada Família41°24’15” N  2°10’30” E
Sagrada Familia
 December 1, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F
						We are in the Basilica of the Sagrada Familia in Barcelona. The most impressive thing when one walks into the building is that all of the stained glass windows on one side are red and yellow, and all of them on the other side are blue and green. The crucifix is unusual. It shows a Jesus not looking down, but rather looking up. I must confess I’m not the biggest fan of Antonio Gaudi, but the colors in the abstract stained glass windows, and his use of soaring space certainly are awe-inspiring.Read more
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 - Day 21
 - Saturday, November 30, 2024 at 8:07 AM
 - ☀️ 66 °F
 - Altitude: Sea level
 
 Western Mediterranean37°46’35” N  0°13’58” W
My Ship
 November 30, 2024, Western Mediterranean ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F
						
								Let me tell you about my ship. 
Every crew member treats me as though I own the ship. That’s why I call this post “My Ship.” 
My favorite place on my ship is the top level of the Explorers’ Lounge on Deck 8 high at the front of the ship. The navigation bridge is just below us, so we get to see what the helmsman sees. 
Another place we like is the World Café, a place for informal dining. We usually have breakfast and lunch here, and in the evening we often take our meals in the Restaurant or in one of the specialty dining areas like Manfredi’s (Italian), or the Chef’s Table. 
The Atrium is the largest room, in the center of the ship. It’s is a good place to go to read, since it also contains the ship’s library. There is a bar nearby if you want to sip something. This is also where Guest Services and the Future Cruise Desk are located. Sometimes musical programs are staged here, and in the evening the classical pianist and the classical string duo play here. Broadway, jazz and rock musical presentations take place in the Star Theater on Deck 2 at the front of the ship. The link below will take you to photos of all of the parts of these ships that we love so much. 
Many of our friends are blessed with beach houses that offer them a wonderful place for rest and relaxation. We like to think of the Viking Ocean Ships as our beach house, or maybe as our boat. But we don’t have to pay for slip fees, fuel, maintenance or insurance when we’re not using the boat, and we don’t spend our weekends driving to the coast to repair damage from the last big storm. 
For us it works. We go to the far parts of the world and wake up every morning in a new country. And we are always learning. I learned more on our Viking World Cruise than I learned in four years of college. 
All of the ships are new, clean, and beautiful with their spare Scandinavian decor. The crew keeps everything impeccably clean and in good repair.
Even though they treat me as though I own the Viking Saturn, I’m not cruising alone. That would get boring pretty quickly. I always meet dozens of folks whose company I enjoy. And one thing I really like about Viking is that all of their ocean ships are identical. When we walk out of our stateroom, we already know where to go to eat, to read, or to sally forth for an excursion off the ship. 
Thanks for coming with us as I have shared my impressions of France, Spain and Africa. My next series of travel blogs will cover our trip to California in January, and another trip to Japan next June. We would love to have you come along. Until then, you may want to get in touch with Viking Ocean Cruises to create your own adventure (or your own ship).Read more
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 - Day 19
 - Thursday, November 28, 2024 at 10:33 AM
 - 🌬 64 °F
 - Altitude: 26 ft
 
 SpainCadiz Port36°31’55” N  6°17’26” W
A Jewel Discovered
 November 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 64 °F
						
								Ten years ago, Malaga was a sleepy little Mediterranean port. Few people came here except to the airport, where they quickly took a flight to the nearby Costa del Sol to enjoy sun and surf for a few days. Oh! What a difference ten years can make! Malaga has now been discovered. There is something here for everyone. The city is now a Mecca for people interested in art, history, music, dramatic arts, cinema, technology and culinary arts.
The official guidebooks say that the city was founded by the Phoenicians around 3000 years ago. Recent construction work around the cathedral has unearthed artifacts going back to 6000 B. C.
Three Phoenician gates and a Roman theater all predate the artifacts left from 800 years of Muslim rule. Malaga’s impressive cathedral is unique. It was begun in a neo-classical style and finished in a baroque style. I use the word “finish” loosely because the building has never really been completed, even though construction began in 1528. Locals refer to her as “the one-armed lady” because only one of two towers was ever built. Construction of the roof began around 1750 and there have always been plans to complete it “mañana.” Wonder of wonders! Workers actually began working on it two years ago. I asked our guide when the new roof would be completed. She smiled and said, “When Jesus returns.” Still, this Malagueña said that she and her neighbors like the old church the way it is, finished or not.
Malaga was one of the first Spanish cities to adopt industrialization, and now one of the first to convert to a hi-tech economy. Google just opened a new IT center right by the port. Malaga is the Silicon Valley of Spain. This city makes much more than computer chips, however. A mountain of potato chips will be consumed in an international hamburger competition going on now, bringing in master chefs from around the world.
Actor Antonio Banderas grew up here, and now makes his home in a building overlooking the two-thousand-year-old Roman theater. When he was a child Banderas would see the ancient stage and dream of becoming an actor. Once established in his career, he bought a house from which he could see the theater that nourished his dreams. His residence, reports say, is palatial inside.
Another favorite son is Pablo Picasso, who spent the first 10 years of his life here. His family moved away from Malaga, and at age 19 he moved to France to make his fortune. He always wanted to return here, but vowed not to do so as long as fascist dictator Francisco Franco was in power. Unfortunately the dictator outlived the artist by 2 years and Picasso never returned to his homeland.
Malaga has been discovered. With 3 million people now claiming it as home, the city’s growth has been exponential. It is now the third largest port in Spain. The Picasso Museum brings visitors from all over the world. The bull ring hosts bullfights only twice a year, and serves most often now as a venue for concerts and exhibitions. There are more than 40 museums here now, including a recent underground branch of the Pompidou Museum of Paris and a world renowned archaeological museum.
For Malaga today the sky’s the limit. The city is taking its place among the world’s leading centers for technology, tourism and the arts. We thoroughly enjoyed our three-hour walking tour into the old city today. When you come, you may want to stay in one of the lovely hotels called “paradors.” The Spanish government has assisted entrepreneurs in finding historical buildings (monasteries, palaces, fortresses, and the like) in the most dramatic locations and converting them into five-star hotels. Some are on the seaside, some on mountaintops or at the edge of cliffs. All are breathtaking. Or, like us, you could come on a Viking Ocean cruise. I’m sitting out in the veranda on a gorgeous Friday afternoon sipping a cold beverage, overlooking the rooftops and dreaming about how sailors came into this very port a thousand years ago. For a taste of Spain’s most ancient history and its newest hopes for the future, there’s no better place to see both than Malaga. And there’s no better way to see it than on a Viking cruise.
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 - Day 19
 - Thursday, November 28, 2024 at 10:26 AM
 - ☀️ 64 °F
 - Altitude: Sea level
 
 SpainPlace d’Espagne de Cadix36°32’4” N  6°17’18” W
Whaddiz Cádiz?
 November 28, 2024 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F
						
								If you didn’t get my joke in the title, it means you’re normal. Over 99.9999 % of Americans mispronounce the name of this place as “ka-DIZZ.” Remember the oil spill? Remember the Exxon kah-DIZZ. 
My title has two words that rhyme exactly. The name is KAH-diz. It rhymes with WHAT-is. The accent is on the first syllable. It comes from the Roman name for this place, but we won’t go into all of that now. 
I have long said that if for some reason we were not able to continue living in the U. S., I would come to Cádiz. An afternoon of walking slowly around this small town reinforced my opinion. 
This city only has about 100,000 people, and it is located on a little peninsula that once hosted a Phoenician town 3000 years ago. But there were people here long before that. It may be the oldest town in the Western world. Although many European towns will tell you that their churches are built on the site of Roman or Greek temples, this is one of the few towns where the churches are built on top of old Phoenician temples.
Cádiz does not have any attractions like an Eiffel Tower or a Taj Mahal, but it has the special charm of a quiet town that is not trying to be anything other than what it is. There’s a beach here. There is also a twelfth-century cathedral, called the “old cathedral,” and one from the renaissance called the “new cathedral.” In the crypt of the new cathedral I saw the tomb of one of my musical heroes, the Spanish composer, Manuel de Falla. There are markets selling fish that were swimming in the ocean an hour ago. And other markets selling the delicious jamon iberico, a ham that comes from hogs grown nowhere else in the world. There is fresh produce everywhere, and more people walk to the markets than drive to them. 
In Cádiz there is time for two old guys just to sit around at the local garage and talk about mañana. But, of course if you know your town has been around for 6000 years, you don’t need to be in a hurry. In Cádiz you can take your dog into a bar. Nobody minds. 
Cádiz is an old girl. She has seen everything come and go several times—Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Moors, kingdoms, emperors, and republics. For too many millennia to count. And she doesn’t get too excited about any of that stuff anymore. She just enjoys sipping a glass of wine in an afternoon garden and smelling the delicious orange trees. She loves to spend an evening just watching the ocean waves crash on her beach. She enjoys taking her time. 
All things considered, not a bad way to live. 
What is Cádiz? It’s not heaven. That doesn’t exist in this world. But Cádiz is a place of uncommon beauty, with people of uncommon kindness who have learned it is the simple gifts that make life worth living. And they have learned that there is really no good reason ever to be in a hurry.Read more
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 - Day 18
 - Wednesday, November 27, 2024 at 8:55 AM
 - ☀️ 59 °F
 - Altitude: 26 ft
 
 MoroccoBassin du Tourisme33°36’19” N  7°37’14” W
Here’s Looking at You, Kid!
 November 27, 2024 in Morocco ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
						
								Our guide Hamid began by introducing a few Arabic phrases such as “Yalla, habibi!” which means, roughly translated, “Let’s go, friends,” a phrase he used often in the course of the morning. He gave us an overview of our itinerary for the day and I was delighted that it contained a couple of stops that had not been previously advertised in the brochure.
On the way to our first stop we passed by Rick’s Café, a re-creation of the restaurant featured in the 1942 movie, “Casablanca,” starring Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. The bar was not on our agenda for the day, so we did not stop, but Hamid mentioned to us that the restaurant is a very popular not only among Americans visiting Morocco, but among residents of Casablanca as well. In my own reading I learned that the King and government were sympathetic to the Allied cause in World War II, but at the request of the U. S. State Department Morocco remained neutral. The allies needed a non-aligned nation where their secret foreign agents and members of the European resistance could hold clasdestine meetings with Germans and others having ties to the Third Reich. So even though Rick’s Bar in the movie is fictional, the film gives an accurate flavor of Casablanca as a place of foreign intrigue, secret diplomacy and undercover operations. The neutrality of Morocco proved useful in 1943 when the Casablanca Conference was held between President Roosevelt, Winston Churchill and Josef Stalin. We saw the buildings in the section of town known as the Habous, where that conference was held. We also saw the house a few doors down which has been the home of the U. S. Ambassador to Morocco ever since the close of the war.
A highlight in this city of 7 million people was the glorious Hasan II Mosque. Blending traditional Islamic elements with modern technology, it is the third largest mosque in Africa. Including its sanctified courtyard, the mosque can accommodate 120,000 worshippers. It was completed in 1993 at a cost of some $800 million. Designed by French architect Michael Pinseau, almost all of the materials in the mosque are from Morocco, even the elaborately decorated titanium doors. The walls and floors are made of hand-crafted Moroccan marble, and the roof is retractable. It boasts the tallest minaret in the world, shooting up 200 meters. A laser at its pinnacle shines every night, pointing the way to Mecca, home of the Prophet Muhammad. The mosque is built on a spit of reclaimed land and is surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean. Among the few objects not of Moroccan design are its 60 chandeliers from the Venetian island of Murano. Each chandelier weighs 2,630 pounds. Remarkably, the building was constructed in only six years and was funded entirely by private contributions. The magnificence of this structure beggars description.
We drove through the neighborhood of Anfa, (or “the hill”) the original name of the city when it was founded in the 7th century. By the time of the European explorations of Africa’s west coast, Anfa had become a haven for troublesome pirates, so the Portuguese blasted the city into ruins in 1468. The town was rebuilt between 1756 and 1790 by Sultan Mohammaed ben Abdallah, an ally of George Washington. The city was renamed Casa Branca, Portuguese for “White House.” It began to grow rapidly as a port and a supplier of wool and tea for the British. Later Spanish overlords changed the pronunciation to “Casablanca” without changing its meaning. The oldest part of town is the neighborhood of Medina. We admired its charming suq and its labyrinthine streets and alleys. It really does look like some of the depictions of ancient Arab towns in the movies of my childhood. This part of the city seems untouched since the eighteenth century and bears its own distinctive charm.
Casablanca was occupied by the French in the early 20th century, becoming a protectorate in 1912. In 1937 the French used an outbreak of typhoid fever as an excuse to deport thousands of Moroccans to the countryside so that they could expropriate land in the city’s center for the construction of a new “rational” housing project. The French built the planned community of New Medina complete, with houses, schools and even a mosque. We saw the houses of New Medina today, which are still occupied by Moroccan families. Our guide was especially proud to show us one dwelling which, until the Covid outbreak, housed a Jewish family. Although that family has now moved to a newer neighborhood, our guide showed us two synagogues. In Casablanca Muslims, Jews and and a small Christian population seem to get along living side by side.
While we were in the Habous area, we popped into the forecourt of one of the palaces of sixty-year-old King Muhammad VI. He has one wife, who was trained as an engineer, and two kids in college. Releasing this sort of private family information is a first for the royal family here. Moroccans love their king. Although his father, Hassan II, was also a beloved monarch, no one ever knew how many wives or children he had. The openness of the current monarch is refreshing.
We ended our tour by cruising down John F. Kennedy Avenue and turning onto Franklin D. Roosevelt Avenue to arrive at United Nations Square, the center of the new commercial area of Casablanca. Here are the Moroccan Stock Exchange, high-rise buildings and shops that sell everything from souvenirs made by local artisans to high-priced clothing of Gucci and Louis Vuitton. Hamid was careful to take us to a store whose merchandise was certified by the government to be made by Moroccans in Morocco. Chinaware, tajines, carved wooden items and leather goods abounded. Some of these items were made in a large facility owned by Richard Branson’s (of Virgin Airlines) mother. Branson has a home and a luxury hotel in Morocco, and his mother is on a mission to provide employment for Moroccan women. One of her cooperative production facilities employs over 800 women. All of the products we saw were really were beautiful. I fell in love with a computer briefcase made of camel leather, but, alas, my suitcase is full.
It is remarkable how Viking Ocean Cruises opens up the world to us. Morocco is no longer just a word on a page or a spot on a map. It is a place with real people, real joys, real sorrows, real life. Though we may set sail again tonight, we will take these wonderful people and their magical country with us in our hearts forever.Read more
















































































































































































































































TravelerThus the name Kobe Beef! Fascinating.
TravelerThe company I worked for was owned by Kobe Steel, so I spent a lot of time there.
TravelerI hope you had your steak rare!