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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella

    PdiS Fingerprinting … ✅

    July 21 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    Another step in the formalities for our Permesso di Soggiorno application is completed!

    This morning we went back to the Questura in Bologna to be fingerprinted.

    We arrived early, so had a bit of a wait. Nonetheless, we were done and on our way back before our actual appointment times of 11:05a and 11:10a. Once our names were called by the fingerprinting tech, it took about 2 minutes each for the process to be completed.

    The tech had no clue how long it might take for our cards to be ready. “Above my pay grade,” was essentially what he said. Someone else working at the Questura said the average is 8-9 months.

    So, now we wait!

    In the meantime, we have a link to check the progress of our application.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Early evening thunderheads forming behind the mountains — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: Not Quite Ready, but …

    July 17 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We’re not quite ready to leave the wonderful cool and comfy temps we’ve been enjoying in the Dolomiti … nor the delightful mountain views.

    We have no choice but to do so, however. We have a Permesso di Soggiorno appointment to keep in a few days and need to return to Bologna. The good news? The heat dome is finally breaking, so we’ll have just the usual summer temps to deal with rather than the sweltering temps that had us escaping to the mountains.

    Anyway, we woke up to rain pitter-pattering on the roof … drenching at times; a drizzle at other times. I didn’t let it stop me from enjoying the balcony since there was no sun to make it uncomfortably hot this morning.

    We could have gone out sightseeing when the rain stopped mid-morning, but we’ll be driving to Bolzano tomorrow, so we decided to just ‘chill’ at the apartment … literally and figuratively. We used the time to do one last load of laundry … the facilities are in the ski/bike room and free to use. We also packed our bags …nearly ready to be zipped up.

    Chores done, we’re now sitting on the veranda … need to finish the open bottle of wine. A good time to reminisce about the memories we’ve added during our mountain getaway.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Ursus ladinicus ... a cave bear subspecies found in 1987 in a cave on Conturines Peak.
    3Full skeleton of a cave bear ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.The cave on Conturines Peak where Ursus ladinicus remains were found — San Cassiano, Italy.Red arrow points to Conturines Peak ... the cave is on the far side and can't be seen from here.Poster showing the bones found in the cave ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano.Mounted cave bear @ Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.Replica of the Conturines cave where the bones were found ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus.A closer look at a sample of bones from the cave ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano.2Cave bear and cub reproduction in the cave ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.Bones from newborn cave bears that did not survive were also found in the Conturines cave.Molar of a cave bear ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.Sample cave painting that might have been found if the Conturines cave was at a lower elevation.1An ammonite fossil ... Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus — San Cassiano, Italy.Wooden cut-out of a Ladin couple in the village square — San Cassiano, Italy.The Parish church of San Cassiano in the Italian Dolomiti.Mural near the church — San Cassiano, Italy."Rotten apple anyone?" — San Cassiano, Italy.

    San Cassiano: Ursus ladinicus

    July 16 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    During the shuttle bus ride in Colfosco, we decided to collect the car from the chalet’s garage and go check out the “art trail” — a footpath with sculptures along the way — in nearby La Villa.

    Manuela had marked up a map for us, but when we arrived in La Villa, we could not find the trailhead. That turned out to be a good thing as we continued our drive and ended up in San Cassiano.

    Spotting the ‘postcard-pretty’ church in the village center, we decided to check it out … maybe even have lunch in the village square. Our decision to do so was clinched when we saw that a museum that had piqued our curiosity earlier during our trip was here as well.

    Where to park was the question, however. The road to the parking structure was closed due to construction. When the GPS took us back to the roundabout to turn us around, we spotted another sign for the parking structure.

    The car parked, we walked to the village square … where we noticed the church door was open. Fearing it might close for siesta, we headed there first.

    With its white-washed walls trimmed in green, and its characteristic onion-domed bell tower, the Parish Church of San Cassiano is quite charming. The presence of a church here is apparently first mentioned in documents from the 15th century. The current building is a re-build from 1782. Two women were cleaning inside. Though they welcomed us, I didn’t want to be underfoot. A few quick snapshots and we were back outside.

    Lunch was at La Vedla, a ristorante/pizzeria overlooking the main drag … and a few quick steps from the church. Our timing was perfect. We had just moved from a rather uncomfortable bistro table to a regular table when the place filled up. In fact, we soon found ourselves sharing our four top with another couple.

    We ordered the Montana Pizza — with speck, mushrooms, and the local grey cheese; and a Caesar salad. Both were very good. Hoping to get some gelato from a shop we had spied in the pedestrian area near the museum, we skipped dessert. No gelato, alas … the place was closed. Oh well.

    The Museum Ladin Ursus ladinicus tells the fascinating story of a cave bear by the same name. Paying the senior admission of €4.50pp, we received audio guides that essentially summarized in English the exhibit signage and provided the audio for the video screens around the museum.

    It was in the fall of 1987 that Willy Costamoling, a man from Corvara, went mountain climbing and made an extraordinary discovery … at about 9,186 feet (2,800m) asl … just below the Conturines Peak. Inside a cave there he found a countless number of bones belonging to a heretofore unknown subspecies of a cave bear from the interglacial period (~40,000 years ago) … a bear that up to 24,000 years ago lived in Europe … in the area between the Ural Mountains and France.

    The museum website explains … “In the following years, a team from the University of Vienna, led by Professor Gernot Rabeder, systematically explored this grotto. The result was remarkable: They had discovered a previously unknown species. Named after its discovery location in this Ladin valley, the bear species was christened 'Ursus ladinicus'. Bones of a cave lion were found in the cave as well [no bite marks from the lion were found on the bear bones]. What's more, due to its high altitude, it is probably the highest site worldwide where cave bear and cave lion remains have been discovered. …”

    We began our visit on the first floor where we listened to the audio guide detailing the exhibits, including the geological history of the Dolomiti. Here we also found a reconstructed complete skeleton of the cave bear.

    Then we walked down the stairs to the basement where there is a replica of the Conturines Cave with the reproduction of a cave bear sleeping with its cub. A short documentary video about the studies conducted by the scientists wrapped up our time at the museum.

    I’m glad we happened on the museum today. It was quite fascinating.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Looking back from the footpath that winds down to town from a spur near the Kolfuschgerhof resort.
    From the footpath to the cableway — Colfosco, Italy.A closer look at the town and church from the footpath to the cableway — Colfosco, Italy.From the footpath to the cableway ... with the town behind us — Colfosco, Italy.Colfosco Cableway ... today's ride up the mountain from the valley station — Colfosco, Italy.Interesting concept to take rocks for a hike ... at the valley station — Colfosco, Italy.And we are off on the Colfosco cableway — Colfosco, Italy.From the Colfosco cableway — Colfosco, Italy.One of several ski bridges over the main road through the town — Colfosco, Italy.1From the Colfosco cableway — Colfosco, Italy.Having fun near the mountain station for the Colfosco cableway — Colfosco, Italy.3Yeah, the chair is a bit big for me 😄 — Colfosco, Italy.This is where we realized that to get to trail #8, we'd have to climb up quite a bit first.Horses and cows grazing in the mountains — Colfosco, Italy.Heading down to the Edelweiss Hut for a snack — Colfosco, Italy.Edelweiss Hut ... not far from the mountain station — Colfosco, Italy.A pair of alpaca at Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.At the entrance to the Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.The view from our table at the Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.Apple strudel with vanilla ice cream ... Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.2An unexpected and delightful moment as we were leaving the Edelweiss Hut — Colfosco, Italy.Near trail #4 as we begin our hike down to town — Colfosco, Italy.Near trail #4 as we begin our hike down to town — Colfosco, Italy.Near trail #4 as we begin our hike down to town — Colfosco, Italy.Looking back from the paved trail as we head down to town — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch is a Ladin church — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Cemetery at Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Chiesa di Calfosch — Colfosco, Italy.Purple fleabane in a garden near the church — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: Gondola Up; Hike Down

    July 16 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    With blue skies and sunshine urging us to get going, we had a quick breakfast at the apartment and headed out around 9:00a.

    Leaving the car parked at Chalet Cogolara, we followed a footpath down from our hilltop perch into town, crossed the road to another footpath, and kept going until we got to the valley station for the Colfosco cableway.

    Our plan was one recommended by Manuela at the chalet … take the gondola up to the mountain station, then follow trail #8 to #8b to hike back to the chalet. What she neglected to tell us was that to get to #8, we’d have to first negotiate the steep #4 trail.

    To revisit our plan in light of this development, we hiked down a short trail to Rifugio Edelweisshütte. At the early hour of 10:15a, there was hardly anyone around. We sat down to enjoy hot chocolate — good but not the thick, gooey kind we had earlier in our trip. We also shared an “apfelstrudel mit vanilleeis” … yes, that would be apple strudel with a side of vanilla ice cream.

    While we were enjoying our ‘snack with a view’, we started to see people hiking up to the hut from somewhere below. Checking the map, we determined the trail would take us down to Colfosco, so we decided to do that hike instead.

    Just as we were leaving, a herd of horses came down from where they were grazing … adults accompanied by colts and fillies. What fun! I’d already seen the two alpaca at the rifugio, and we’d spotted a couple of marmots as we were coming up on the cableway … so plenty of critters today.

    When we got back down to town, we detoured to check out Chiesa di Calfosch, the Ladin church that was originally consecrated in 1419. It was enlarged in 1869 and given a neo-Gothic façade … with the characteristic onion spire on the bell tower. I especially liked the simple, elegant decorations painted on the ceiling inside.

    When we checked in at the Chalet six days ago, Manuela had emailed us free passes for the shuttle that operates between the villages in the region. We decided that taking a ride back to the apartment would save us a considerable amount of uphill walking. It also changed our plans for the afternoon.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Our morning view from Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.
    Patches of blue sky prove to be a good omen — Colfosco, Italy.1On our way to Corvara, we try to check out a biotope lake ... no luck!A good-sized Roman Snail ... and a baby snail hiding in its shell (bottom right) — Colfosco, Italy.Heading up on Seggiovia Prolongià — Planac, Italy.Panorama from the 'Refuge of the Owls' ... Corvara is way down there — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Pralongià Plateau — Dolomiti, Italy.1Eclectic decorations on the deck of the 'Refuge of the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.A tree full of owls ... near the 'Refuge of the Owls — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.One of the many owls near the 'Refuge for the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.A pop of color — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Enjoying the solitude, cool air, and scenery — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Marmolada Glacier across the valley from the Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.An appropriate mosaic mural at the 'Refuge of the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Owls are everywhere at the 'Refuge of the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.The wine hut near the 'Refuge of the Owls' — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.On our way up to the high plateau — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Queen Anne's Lace (I believe) ... certainly not the poisonous hemlock — Pralongià Plateau.Enjoying the view from a bench along the way — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Glimpse of the peak of Sassongher from the trail — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Cima Dieci (far left); La Varella (center); Conturines Peak (far right) — Pralongià Plateau.On the way to the high plateau hut — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.A charming photo op that frames the Sassongher Peak — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Western honey bee on a thistle — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Rifugio Alpina Pralongià ... from the trail up to the church — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.The Alpine Chapel of St Anthony — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.The Alpine Chapel of St Anthony — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.The Alpine Chapel of St Anthony — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Mui at our table @ Rifugio Alpina Pralongià — Pralongià Plateau.A delicious lunch @ Rifugio Alpina Pralongià (descriptions in the footprint) — Pralongià Plateau.Mountain biking trail ... on the way down from the refuge hut — Pralongià Plateau, Dolomiti.Heading down from the Pralongià Plateau on the chairlift ... sudden jolting stop and all 😃.Our early evening storm ... from the Zoom Earth radar image — Colfosco, Italy.

    Corvara: Pralongià Plateau

    July 15 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Woke up to thick fog filling the valley and hiding the mountains and the town from view. By the time breakfast was over, however, so was the fog … in time for us to put today’s plans for an outing in play. The blue sky was hidden behind clouds initially, but that changed by the time we got to our destination.

    Arriving in Planac, just outside Corvara, we parked in the lot for the chairlift that goes up to Pralongià … a high plateau at the far end of the Badia Valley. In the winter, it’s a haven for skiers … this time of the year it is a destination for hikers and bikers.

    Purchasing roundtrip tickets on the chairlift, we were on our way up to the mountain station shortly after 10:30a. It was a refreshing ride … didn’t really need the jackets we’d put on in the parking lot just in case.

    We’ve ridden ski chairlifts before, but this one could accommodate 6 people on each lift. With just the two of us, we were able to enjoy a private ride and turn around to look at the scenery behind us as well. A fun ride … less than 10 minutes.

    The chairlift is actually two phases, but only the first phase — which ends near Ütia Punta Trieste at 6,654 feet (2,028m) asl — is operating this time of the year. (Ütia, by the way, means mountain hut or alpine refuge in the Ladin language.) Despite its name — which means Trieste Peak — the hut is better known as the “Rifugio dei Gufi” (Refuge of the Owls) because of the hundreds of owl carvings, ceramics, and more that decorate the hut and the deck.

    We dallied a bit around the hut, taking the time to enjoy not just all the owls, but also the wonderful view of the mountains in every direction. That there was hardly anyone else around was a bonus.

    And then we began the hike to the alpine refuge of Pralongià, which took us up another 425 feet to 7,076 feet (2,157m) asl. It wasn’t a difficult hike, despite some steep sections. We’d been told it was a 30-minute hike to the hut — now a fairly large facility with a restaurant and hotel. We took longer to get up to it, following a detour that was easier on the knees … via a scenic path dotted with wild flowers.

    It was almost noon when we arrived at the Pralongià ‘hut’ … if you can call it that. The place was packed with mountain bikers and hikers congregating here for food and rest after their strenuous activities. Can’t say as I blame them … the view was spectacular.

    The place was packed but we found a table where we could both sit facing the alpine church on the hill across the way and still be in the shade. A glass of wine; delicious food — braised venison ossobuco from the Alps with celery root crêpes and carrots for Mui; paccheri pasta with venison ragout, Lagrein wine reduction sauce, and freeze-dried raspberries for me. Dessert was an interesting concoction … a mountain pine semifreddo garnished with berries and crunchy bits. Delicious.

    We would have dallied at the restaurant, but we felt guilty taking up a table … even though we had agreed to have a German couple from Stuttgart sit at the other side of our table when they asked if they could share it with us. No sooner were we standing that another couple was taking our seats.

    We hiked back down via the main trail for a change of pace and scenery. With distant clouds portending rain — a storm was forecasted for this afternoon — we decided to continue down on the chairlift and return to the apartment.

    The rain indeed came … earlier than yesterday … and it was much heavier today. That it didn’t last as long as yesterday’s storm meant that we could enjoy our snacks-in-lieu-of-dinner on the balcony.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Screenshot of the radar image from Zoom Earth as the storm moves over us — Colfosco, Italy.
    2Here's a bit of what we experienced — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: It’s Raining, It’s Pouring

    July 14 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    I was totally OK with the plan to stay home today so Mui could go to the clinic in town. Aside from the fact that I could do some catching up with footprints, I could read and relax on the balcony. Frankly, I did more of the latter than the former.

    That there was rain in the forecast was another reason to stay at home … especially since the various weather sites couldn’t seem to agree on when and how much rain we’d be getting.

    After breakfast, Mui went off to the clinic, waiting with the rest of the patients to see the doctor. No receptionist or anything … just the one doc doing everything from seeing patients to taking payments.

    The long and short of it is that he agreed there was an infection. He prescribed an ointment that Mui filled at the pharmacy. Fingers crossed we see results soon.

    Once he got home, we had lunch and just chilled. We had some sunshine, but cloud cover moved in frequently, which allowed me to sit on the balcony earlier than usual … hence the adverse impact on photo processing for footprints.

    The worst of the rain held off until late afternoon, but it has been raining on and off since then. Light at times; moderate at other times … certainly heavy enough to not only veil the distant mountains from view, but the town below us as well. Thunder and some lightning, too. And occasional winds that were strong enough to set the tree branches a-swaying.

    It was too chilly to sit outside for afternoon tea … or even for snacks in lieu of dinner. Nonetheless, I later grabbed the fleece blanket and sat outside for a while despite the rain … thanks to the protection of the wide eaves over the balcony.

    We plan to do some hiking tomorrow if Mui is up for it … and the ground isn’t too soggy. If the radar is to be believed, the wet stuff will continue in waves through the night.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Sunset view from our balcony at Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.
    Nightfall veils all but the twinkling lights of the town ... from Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: A Day of R&R

    July 13 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    After a day of sightseeing yesterday, today was a quiet day at the apartment.

    Mui used this day to visit the pharmacist in town. He wanted to get some drops for what he thinks is an eye infection. He succeeded in his goal. By nightfall, however, there was added puffiness around his eye.

    He now plans to visit the clinic he spotted near the pharmacy and have a doctor look at his eye. But that’s for tomorrow.

    We need to get the infection under control so that his vision is not impaired. I can’t begin to even think about having to drive us back to Bolzano on these twisty-turns two-way roads!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Welcome back to Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.
    Our lunch spot ... Klematys in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.2Delicious food ... and an interesting mask associated with a Ladin legend ... Klematys — PieveLadin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.1Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.European red squirrel ... Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.1Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Ladin Museum in Pieve — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.

    Pieve: Mujeo Ladin Fodom

    July 12 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    From the castle, we drove to Pieve … in the commune of Livinallongo del Col di Lana … aka Fodom in the Ladin language. We’d stopped at this town on moving day and strolled around a bit, but this time we timed our visit to coincide with the opening hours of the Ladin Museum.

    We had time on our hands, however, as the museum did not open until 2:30p. No worries … we wanted to have lunch first anyway. We opted to go to Ristorante Pizzeria Klematys … in the square below the church.

    The ambiance was German/Tyrol; the service fast; the waitress had a sense of humor; and the food was good. Mui ordered the special on the recommendation of our server … a beef fillet doused in a peppercorn sauce that had just the right amount of bite. I ordered the cotoletta alla Milanese (aka Wienerschnitzel) that came with French fries. Both dishes were delicious. We wrapped up with a special dessert — Kaiserschmarrn — which the waitress said isn’t always on the menu.

    Kaiserschmarrn is a traditional fluffy Austrian dessert … it can also be eaten as a light meal. It consists of a slightly sweetened pancake that is shredded into bite-sized pieces while cooking. Often studded with rum-soaked raisins, it is typically caramelized with a bit of sugar and served warm with powdered sugar and a fruit compote.

    I found the backstory to this dish interesting … so here it is as provided by AI: “The name translates to ‘Emperor's Mess’ … originating from the German words Kaiser (Emperor) and Schmarrn (mess or scrambled dish). It is famously named after the Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph I. According to local legend, a chef accidentally tore a pancake intended for the Emperor. The Emperor tried the shredded pieces, loved them, and the "scrambled pancake" became a staple.”

    Onward to the museum.

    We didn’t know much about the Ladin Museum Fodom, but wanted to get a better sense of the Ladin culture since it is an important part of the Dolomiti. We were given a €1 discount each for being 65+ … paid a total of €8.

    The purpose of the museum is to “… preserve and to pass on to future generations the ancient Ladin culture.” There were models of the different types of houses one might see in Ladin communities; agricultural equipment; samples of arts and crafts; several traditional costumes, including the more formal outfits a bride and groom might wear; geological artifacts; and examples of furnishings.

    It was an interesting visit … our only disappointment being that none of the poster-sized signage included explanations in English. So we were left with the information we had pre-read on the web.

    On the way back, we followed the same route we drove when we moved to Chalet Cogolara on the 10th. By 4:00p, we were at the apartment. Wanting to just chill (pun intended), I sat on the balcony and read. The wind added a chill factor that had me seeking out a fleece blanket to wrap around myself. Hey, no complaints … I’ll take cold over the alternative anytime.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On our way to Castello di Andraz — Dolomiti, Italy.
    On our way to Castello di Andraz — Dolomiti, Italy.1Sass de Putia (9,430 feet/2,875m asl) ... On our way to Castello di Andraz — Dolomiti, Italy.An alpine church on our way to Castello di Andraz — Dolomiti, Italy.Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.2Slightly 3D sign for Castello di Andraz delineates the erratic boulder on which the castle was builtCastello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.1Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.Archaeological dig of the church ... as we climb to the top — Castello di Andraz.The roof walkway over the glass ceiling ... Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, ItalySass de Stria (L) and Cima Falzarego (center) — from the rooftop at Castello di Andraz.One of the three medieval toilets ... Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy1View of the nearby hamlet from Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, ItalyKitchen ... sink (lower left); fireplace & chimney (center) — Castello di Andraz —Closer look at the sink in the kitchen ... Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy2Sass de Stria (L) and Cima Falzarego — Castello di Andraz.Panorama of Sass de Stria (L); Cima Falzarego (center); & Coston d'Averau — Castello di Andraz.Some of the artifacts found during restoration ... Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di LanaCastello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy2From the exhibition of photos around Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, ItalyModel of Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, ItalyModel of Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy5Waterfall near Model of Castello di Andraz — Livinallongo del Col di Lana, Italy.

    Castello di Andraz … 3rd Try … Success

    July 12 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    It was very pleasant on the balcony this morning. Of course, it was only 7:00a when I sat outside to read for a bit … and there was a corner still in the shade.

    Why mention this? Because it meant that we got a late start on today’s outing, which took us practically all the way back to Colle Santa Lucia … or near enough.

    You’ll recall that road construction foiled some of our plans last week — A and B as mentioned in previous posts. Well, today being Sunday, the road was open. Having confirmed this by calling ahead, this time we made it to the restored ruins of Castello di Andraz. Third time’s the charm, as they say. Mui took a different route on the way there, the all-new-to-us scenery made the drive all the more pleasurable.

    Once we got to the turnoff for the castle, we decided to drive down as far as we could instead of parking at the top and hiking down. Remember, what goes down must eventually come up 😩.

    We lucked out with a roadside parking spot not too far from the castle. Bonus! The admission ticket for the museum we visited in Selva di Cadore gave us a discount here, so we paid €10 for the two of us … saving €2. Double bonus!

    The castle, which dates back to the 11th through 15th centuries, is situated at 5,670 feet (1,728m) asl … just below the Falzarego Pass in Livinallongo del Col di Lana. It was built atop an immense erratic boulder — which broke away from the Settsass Group during the Ice Age.

    The purpose of this medieval stronghold was to control the routes that linked the territories of first Belluno and later the Venetian Republic. The decline in mineral and timber resources during the mid-18th century led to Andraz losing its importance. In the early 19th century, it was sold to a private owner who used materials from the castle for other construction projects. Eventually, the roof was dismantled and used as firewood … furthering the deterioration of the castle.

    WWI saw Andraz being used as an Italian encampment, which led to its bombing by Austrian forces. During the post-war period, the ruins were used as a quarry for the reconstruction of a nearby village.

    Purchased by the Veneto Region in 1985, the castle has been restored with modern additions … structural reinforcement, steel staircases and a glass roof amongst them. The latter not only protects the interior of the ruins from the elements, but also serves as a terrace from which visitors can enjoy the mountain and forest scenery.

    There were more people visiting the castle than I expected. The good news, however, is that the large group that was inside was leaving as we arrived. We decided to head up to the top and make our way down.

    On the top-most level, the walkway over the glass ceiling that protects the castle was open … even though the signs said that it was only accessible with a guide. We’re guessing that the guide for the group that had just departed forgot to lock the gate for the ladder-like stairs. We were quick to take advantage of the opportunity.

    Frankly, there’s not much to see inside Castello di Andraz. Nonetheless, we wandered through each level, reading the signs identifying and describing each area. The signs also pointed out interesting features that one might otherwise miss … such as the medieval toilets, the sink in the kitchen, the remnants of the timbers to which prisoners were chained.

    There were also a couple of display cases with artifacts found during the restoration, and a model of the castle. We also took time to watch the multimedia presentation … showing how the castle was built atop the erratic boulder and the changes it underwent through the ages.

    An interesting visit that added variety to our activities in the Dolomiti.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Comfy in a short-sleeved t-shirt in the morning ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.
    With the wind picking up as a rain storm moves in, need a fleece blanket to stay warm.That's it as far as a rainbow ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.The rain starts to lift and the mountains begin to reappear ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.1As night falls, this is all the color we get ... Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.

    Colfosco: All’s Quiet on the Central Front

    July 11 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    After yesterday’s twisty-turny drive through the mountains, we were both happy to have a quiet day at the chalet.

    The apartment gets the sun in the morning, so I sat out for just a short time before it felt downright hot … despite the light, cool breeze. No A/C here, so we pulled some of the drapes closed and kept the balcony doors open. Kept us comfy for the rest of the morning.

    Once the sun moved off the balcony, I split my time between photo processing indoors and reading outside. Although we are quite close to two fairly large towns, it’s beautifully quiet up here on the outskirts.

    A light snack for dinner on the balcony tonight. And then I wrapped myself up in a fleece blanket to continue sitting out … watching the daylight dim as it began thundering in the distance. Rain began to fall around 9:00p … right on schedule. The twinkling lights of the houses in the mountain valley below us are now veiled by the steady rain. The eaves afford enough protection to continue sitting outside … which I will do until the evening chill drives me inside.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On our way to Colfosco in the central Dolomiti region.
    The one stop we made was at the ubiquitous big letters — Dolomiti, Italy.Photo point on Passo Campolongo; the Sassongher massif (R) and the Puez Group (L) looms behind.Mui's entrecôte with gravy; crispy onions, and roasted potatoes — Hotel Jägerhof, Colfosco.Welcome to Chalet Cogolara ... we're on the top floor in the building on the right — Colfosco, ItalyTofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.Second bedroom ... perfect for Mui's daytime naps ... Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco.Balcony ... looking south (L) and north; Tofano Apartment @ Chalet Cogolara — Colfosco, Italy.View down to Colfosco and the ski runs and mountains in the distance — Tofano Apartment.View from the balcony down to Colfosco and the mountains — Tofano apartment @ the chalet.Glimpse of Sassongher (L) looking north from the balcony — Tofano apartment @ the chalet.

    Colfosco: Our New Digs @ Chalet Cogolara

    July 10 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The route we followed from Pieve to our new digs was all new.

    Having decided to see if we could check-in early, we didn’t dally along the way … we knew we’d be driving along the same twisty-turny, two-way mountain roads again. One photo stop at the ubiquitous big letters for Corvara was it.

    As we were driving through Corvara and Colfosco we began wondering if we had made a mistake with this booking. Both towns were very crowded; the streets a hub-bub of activity. Of course, as late as we were to planning our Dolomiti ‘escape the heat’ trip, choices for accommodations that fit our budget were limited, so nothing to do but grin and bear it.

    Turns out that Chalet Cogolara, an apart-hotel, is on the outskirts of Colfosco, far from the madding crowd … but still convenient to grocery shopping, several trails, and such. Built in 1970, the property was renovated into apartments around 2018-2019. It is operated alongside Lüch da Rönn, a historic farmstead. The first mention of the high-elevation farm dates back to 1273. Today, the farm is dedicated to breeding sheep.

    We were greeted by Manuela, who apologized that our apartment wasn’t ready. No apology necessary … we were three hours ahead of schedule. She suggested we have lunch and return around 2:00p … and made a couple of recommendations for our meal. We settled on the restaurant at Hotel Jägerhof down the road a bit and enjoyed a nice lunch on the terrace where an umbrella provided plenty of shade from the bright, hot sun.

    Our apartment was ready when we returned around 2:00p. Before taking us up to our top floor apartment for the next 7 nights, Manuela gave us a tour of the facilities, including the garage, the ski/bike room where she pointed out a locker for our use, the laundry room, and more. Then up to our luxurious apartment … named Tofana for some of the peaks visible from the balcony.

    Once we got the lay of the land and unpacked, Mui drove back to Colfosco to supplement our groceries. I took advantage of the balcony — now in the shade — to read for a while. A delightful light meal — wine and snacks with a view down toward Colfosco and the mountains behind — wrapped up our moving day.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    An "it was great to get to know you" selfie w/Raffaella in the Villagrande town square.
    Parking lot with a view — Pieve, Italy.Heading to the museum (only to find it closed) — Pieve, Italy.1Love all the colorful blooms in planters along roads and in the windows — Pieve, Italy.Colorful blooms and wood carvings — Pieve, ItalyPainted shutters — Pieve, Italy.Decorative trim around a window — Pieve, Italy.WWI & WWII Memorial outside the church — Pieve, Italy.Memorial to Katharine Lanz; a Tyrolean patriot; considered a sort of Joan of Arch of Tyrol — Pieve.The Church of San Giacomo — Pieve, Italy.The Church of San Giacomo — Pieve, Italy.In the town square — Pieve, Italy.Detail from the fountain in the town square — Pieve, Italy.1Collection of colorful blooms — Pieve, Italy.Ladin flag in Pieve, Italy.

    Moving Day … With A Detour to Pieve

    July 10 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    After a 10-night stay in Colle Santa Lucia (actually, in the hamlet of Villagrande), today was moving day for us. Raffaella, our host, came to see us off … asking if we could take a selfie together before we left. We were off around 10:00a … after bidding “a s’odëi” (= see you later … in Ladin).

    With check-in at our new place set for 3:00p, our plan was to take a roundabout route to Colfosco … in the central region of the Dolomiti. To that end, we decided to try going to one of the places we were hoping to visit yesterday … Plan A. Alas, that did not prove possible. Hope springs eternal, however, so we’ll try again if we can fit it in.

    Thus, we jiggled our plans, deciding to try an alternate route to another place we had hoped to visit yesterday … Plan B. No problem getting to Pieve, the main town in the commune of Livinallongo del Col di Lana. We even found parking … with a view no less. But the museum that we wanted to check out was not scheduled to open until 2:30p.

    We debated wandering around for a while to kill time, have lunch, and then go to the museum. It didn’t take long, however, to realize that there wasn’t enough to keep us occupied until 2:30p. Instead, we settled on just doing a wander around Pieve and then continued on to our new digs.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Mural at the entrance to the Paleontology exhibits — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.
    Map of Val Fiorentina showing the important sites in the valley — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Schematic showing the geology of the Dolomites — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Mural at the entrance to the exhibits about Italy's first dinosaur tracks — Museo Vittorino CazzettaDiorama showing a dinosaur leaving tracks in the ground — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Photos and information about the dinosaur tracks of Monte Pelmetto — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Cast of the Monte Pelmetto dinosaur tracks; lower right of previous photo shows the cast being made.Diorama of two herbivores and one carnivore leaving tracks — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Fossils from the Dolomites — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Mural at the entrance to last hunter-gatherers of Europe exhibits — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Diorama of a shelter of Mesolithic hunter-gatherers — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Skeleton of the 8,000 year-old Mondeval Man — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Information about the burial find of the Mondeval Man — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Mural depicting the burial of the Mondeval Man — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Mural depicting the Mandriz rock shelter — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.3D model of the Mandriz rock shelter built against an erratic boulder — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.3D elevation depiction of the Dolomiti — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta, Selva di Cadore.Inscriptions of Monte Pore; stele with characters of the extinct Indo-European Venetic language.Inscriptions of Monte Civetta from the Roman Period — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Lion of St Mark ... on a marble border stone — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Carved and painted wooden box from 1576; used to store accounting entries.Book of statutes of the Brotherhood of Santa Maria dei Battuti of Selva and Pescul (16th century).Episode of the Martyrdom of San Lorenzo; 1490 ... from the Church of San Lorenzo in Selva di Cadore.Banner of the Comune of Selva di Cadore — Museo Vittorino Cazzetta.Could this be the precious Rajetta? The question remains unanswered.

    Selva di Cadore: Museo Vittorino Cazzetta

    July 9 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The main activity of Plan C today was a visit to the Vittorino Cazzetta Museum.

    Founded in 1982 as the Val Fiorentina Civic Museum, it features exhibits on paleontology, archaeology, and history. In 1997, it was dedicated to Vittorino Cazzetta, described as “… a passionate, self-taught scholar and author of the area’s most significant scientific discoveries.” Cazzetta disappeared during a trip into his beloved mountains 30 years ago.

    We paid the 65+ admission — €7pp … with a discount part of the deal for another museum we hope to visit.

    The museum is not very big, but it has interesting, well-planned exhibits. Information panels are in Italian and English … though the labels for items in the display cases are in Italian only (thank goodness for translation apps).

    The focus of the museum is the history of the area … from the oldest geological periods to the Middle Ages. Two of the exhibits are of great importance to the region.

    One is the actual skeletal remains from the mesolithic burial find of “L’Uomo di Mondeval” … the 8,000 year old Mondeval Man. The other is a cast of the first traces of dinosaur footprints discovered in Italy … found on a boulder that fell from Mount Pelmetto (one of the mountains we can see from our apartment).

    We started out by watching a multimedia presentation explaining how the Dolomiti (aka the Pale Mountains) — which are inscribed on the UNESCO WHS list — were formed over 250 million years ago. Originating as vast coral reefs in a shallow tropical sea, tectonic collisions later pushed these ancient seafloor deposits thousands of feet up. The rock was then transformed by magnesium-rich waters and sculpted into jagged peaks by ice and erosion.

    (That’s the short story … for more detail, you can start with this link: https://www.dolomites.org/dolomites-history/.)

    We then wandered through the different sections of the museum, starting with the paleontology and geology exhibits where we saw a collection of fossils; the cast of the dinosaur tracks I mentioned earlier; displays and information about Mesolithic hunter-gatherers, including a diorama of a shelter; and of course the skeletal remains and artifacts from the Mondeval Man burial find.

    The second floor had more archaeological finds, including finds from the Mandriz Shelter and the Bronze Age Mondeval de Sora. It was interesting to see how people used huge erratic boulders as part of their rustic shelters.

    On this floor, we also found more ‘recent’ archaeological finds … time being relative and all that. Photo displays of the valley’s most significant historical and artistic sites — such as the ones that inspired us to visit Chiesa di Santa Fosca — rounded out our visit to the museum.

    Even though this museum was not on our radar, I’m glad we had a chance to visit it and learn a bit more about the Dolomiti and the Valley of Fiorentina.

    Tomorrow is moving day … we’ll be heading to the central part of the mountains.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On our way to implement Plan A (and Plan B), we go through one of the tunnels of the Dolomiti.
    Plan A and Plan B both foiled by the road closure — Dolomiti, Italy.Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.St Christopher with baby Jesus ... Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.1Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.Monument honoring the 150th anniversary of mountaineering in memory of ancestors ... @ Santa Fosca.View from behind Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.Chiesa di Santa Fosca from the path to the cemetery — Selva di Cadore, Italy.The cemetery is behind and separate from Chiesa di Santa Fosca — Selva di Cadore, Italy.

    Selva di Cadore: Today’s Plan C

    July 9 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Plan A for today was a bust. So was Plan B.

    The reason? Construction work on the road we needed to drive to get to both places. Sure, the road would be open for two hours between noon and 2:00p … during siesta. But neither place we wanted to visit would be open during that time frame.

    We’re going to try dropping down to those places from the north later during this trip, so I’ll keep them a secret for now.

    Thus, we moved on to Plan C … which took us to a museum in Selva di Cadore, down the road a bit from Colle Santa Lucia. I’ll leave the museum to another footprint.

    After visiting the museum, inspired by a photo I saw at one of the exhibits, we programmed Chiesa di Santa Fosca into the GPS. Short drive up the road from the museum.

    The church, constructed in Alpine Gothic style, was founded in the 13th century; underwent rebuilding in the first quarter of the 15th century … a bell tower with a characteristic onion dome added in the mid-15th century. Sitting by itself on a small plateau, it is considered one of the iconic views of the Val Fiorentina (val = valley).

    What drew me to the church was a mural … pictured on the front façade in the photograph at the museum. The description indicated that the oversized fresco was painted in the 15th century and depicts Saint Christopher with baby Jesus sitting on his shoulder. Considering the considerably deteriorated condition of the mural of Saint Fosca (over the door), I’m thinking St Kit has been ‘touched up’ over the years.

    The door to the church was locked. But the info panel indicated it would be open between 4:30p-6:00p.

    So, under the guise of getting ourselves some gelato in Selva di Cadore, we later returned to take a peek inside the church. Still locked up tight.

    Oh well! At least we got to enjoy some good gelato.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Ra Gusela Pond Reflection ... hike #1 trail in the distance — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.
    Ra Gusela Pond Reflection ... the two peaks on the right are Tofana di Rozes & Tofana di Mezzo.Cows on the way back to the car — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.View of Ra Gusela and many more mountains from the parking area — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.View from the parking area for hike #2 — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Ra Gusela and the Tofanas ... on the wall behind our bed at Cesa dele Angele.

    Dolomiti: Giau Pass … Hike #2

    July 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Our second hike of the afternoon was just a short ways down SP638. Technically, we could have left the car where it was and walked to the trailhead. But what goes down, must come back up. So, we decided to save our energy and drove to the small roadside parking area instead.

    The reason we wanted to do the hike was simple … it was marked on Google Maps as “Ra Gusela Pond Reflection.” Can you say double the pleasure?

    There was no real trail per se. We essentially looked ahead to where the grass seemed to have been trampled through an area where cows graze and followed it. Today our bovine friends were resting on the next hill over.

    When Google Maps said that we had arrived, we looked around for a body of water. What we found was more of a mud pit … with some water. A couple seated on a nearby rock confirmed that this was the spot. Hmmm!

    Disappointing? That was our first reaction. However, our initial grimace at what we found, quickly turned into wide smiles when we realized that we could still get a reflection of Ra Gusela. We just had to walk around to the other side of the mud pit. Even the clouds cooperated and the light brightened to match our grins. Best of all … the wind that came out of nowhere, waited to do so after we completed our photo ops.

    Here’s the funny thing about the Ra Gusela Pond Reflection. We didn’t know it at the time we decided to do the short hike, but what we’d be seeing was the same view that is on the wall behind our bed at Cesa dele Angele!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    View from where we parked the car on the side of the road — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.
    Ra Gusela behind us ... from where we parked the car — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Panorama with Ra Gusela (R) and road down to Da Aurelio (L) — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo (L) and Monte Cristallo (R) — from the Giau Pass, Dolomiti.A closer look at Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo (10,322 feet/3,126m asl) — from Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Bladder Campion ... along the trail at Giau Pass, Dolomiti.View of the mountains from our turnaround point on the trail at Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Heading down ... (L to R) Torre Dusso, Cima Loschiesuoi, Monte Cernera — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Panorama from our turnaround point — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.1Interesting hanging sculpture at the Berghotel — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.Chiesetta Alpina di Passo Giau is a cabin-like wooden chapel — Giau Pass, Dolomiti.

    Dolomiti: Giau Pass … Hike #1

    July 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    After lunch, we drove the short distance on SP638 — a regional road that is part of the Veneto Strade system — to the highest point of Passo di Giau (7,335 feet/2,236m asl).

    The plan was to hike the short trail that starts near Berghotel Passo Giau … in the direction of one of the famous peaks of the area … Ra Gusela. No real parking lots in the vicinity, so we did what all the other cars had done … when we found an open spot on the shoulder, Mui pulled off the road and maneuvered into it.

    The hike wasn’t difficult per se … wide steps pretty much all the way up to a radio link antenna at our turnaround point. Beyond that it was a rock scramble that continued deeper into the mountains and refuge huts. Not taking on that part of the trail.

    Spectacular scenery … despite the overhead clouds.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Ristorante da Aurelio ... we dined on the terrace on the left — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.
    View at Da Aurelio ... the peak on the right is Ra Gusela (8,514 ft/2,595m) — Passo di Giau.View @ Ristorante da Aurelio ... Averau (R) is 8,688 feet/2,648m — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.View from our table ... Ristorante da Aurelio — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.Piz Boé ... 10,341 feet/3,152m (center back) & Col di Lana (center front) ... from Da Aurelio.Delicious lunch @ Ristorante da Aurelio — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.An espresso to wrap up lunch @ Ristorante da Aurelio — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.1At Ristorante da Aurelio ... we dined on the terrace on the left — Passo di Giau, Dolomiti.

    Dolomiti: Lunch at Da Aurelio

    July 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    When we first arrived in Colle Santa Lucia, Raffaella — our host at Cesa dele Angele — texted me recommendations … what to do, where to eat, etc. Amogst the suggestions was what she described as a ‘chic restaurant’ … Ristorante Da Aurelio overlooking the Giau Pass (7,335 feet/2,236m asl).

    We drove through the pass early on during our stay … it connects Colle Santa Lucia with Cortina d’Ampezzo. We passed the restaurant at the time, but other plans were calling us, so we postponed our lunch to another day. That day turned out to be today.

    The plan was to have lunch first, and then do two easy hikes in the immediate area. It all worked out beautifully — with the weather cooperating … comfy temps and sunshine … with ‘sun-ray-filter-clouds’ eventually giving way to puffy clouds as the afternoon progressed.

    The road to get to the pass is twisty-turny. Coming from Colle Santa Lucia, one has to drive through 3 tunnels … easy peasy; and tight, hairpin bends … 29 of them to be exact. No, I didn’t count them myself … each one was clearly numbered with a sign.

    Da Aurelio is at the rifugio by the same name … located at 7,135 feet/2,175m asl. We had no reservation for lunch. But that actually worked out in our favor as we were invited to dine at one of the tables on the deck instead of the dining room inside. Perfect. (Soon after we were seated, the remaining tables on the deck were filled by others who had not made reservations.)

    What can I say! It was a wonderful dining experience. Not surprising since the restaurant bills itself as “A gourmet’s paradise at 2,175 meters in the heart of the Dolomites.” The menu is inspired by nature and features traditional Alpine fare … with a twist — meaning that the chef adds his own interpretation to the recipes. Products are sourced locally and wild herbs and high-altitude edible Alpine flowers are used for flavor and color.

    A delightful meal. And now to hike-off some of the calories.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    A Ladin couple at the entrance to the Ladin Institute at Cesa de Jan — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.
    A mural at the entrance to the Ladin Institute at Cesa de Jan — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.17th century map of the Tyrol by M. Burglechner; in the shape of the heraldic eagle of the county.Foyer of Cesa de Jan where the Ladin Institute is housed — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Upstairs bay window @ Cesa de Jan where the Ladin Institute is housed — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Cesa de Jan (1612) where the Ladin Institute is housed — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.At the start of the trail that turned into the Way of the Cross — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Looking back to the start of the trail that runs by where we are staying — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.The arrows point to our balconies at Cesa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.View from the trail where is turned into the Way of the Cross — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.One of the stations on the Way of the Cross — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Chiesa di Colle Santa lucia from the Way of the Cross — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Selfie from the Way of the Cross (valley view behind us) — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Chiosco Bar da Silver — Pian-Fossal, Italy.Chiesa di San Lorenzo & Selva di Cadore ... the view that was hidden from us by the rain on 1 July.Mui got a macchiato; then jealous of my hot chocolate, he got one for himself (with panna [right]).Mural in the square with symbols of the village — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.Weather vane at Casa dele Angele — Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.

    Colle Santa Lucia: Plan B

    July 7 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    When we visited the tourist office a few days ago, the woman at the desk mentioned the Ladin Museum. That fit in with our desire for an easy day today.

    The Ladins are an ancient ethnolinguistic group that traces its roots back to 15 BCE when the Roman soldiers conquering the region integrated with the Rhaetian and Celtic Tribes. Today there are some 30,000 people who are of Ladin descent … they live in five valleys in the Dolomites. Their culture blends Latin and Alpine-Germanic traditions. Their language is not an Italian dialect. Rather, it is an independent and actively protected Rhaeto-Romance language.

    You might think that I learned all that when we went to Cesa de Jan — which dates back to 1612, and where we understood the museum to be located. Well, you would be wrong. The building is apparently just the headquarters (admin offices) of the Institut Cultural Ladin and the museum is in another town.

    The building was open; the offices locked up. There wasn’t anything to see really, so we were in and out in about five minutes.

    On to Plan B.

    We were curious about the trail/path we could see from our balcony at the apartment. Might as well check it out. Turns out the trail heads down at a steep angle and splits at a hairpin turn. We decided to go left … where the path continues up a steep, slightly-overgrown path that goes around to the other side of the church. At regular intervals there were what looked like votive shrines with numbers on them. That’s when we realized that the path was really a “Way of the Cross.” Good exercise; nice views.

    Once we got off the trail in the village, we decided to head down to the Chiosco Bar da Silver for hot beverages. When we had dinner there the day we arrived, it was raining so hard that we couldn’t see anything. Today, with the sun out, we were able to enjoy our beverages with a view of the towns and villages in the valley.

    Eventually returning to the apartment, we designated the rest of the day for R&R … lunch at home; afternoon tea and evening wine & snacks on the balcony.

    The weather looks like it is going to cooperate for another day, so we’re planning to head up to one of the passes tomorrow for a couple of short hikes. While we’re at it, we’ll check out a restaurant recommended by our host.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena — Rocca Piétore, Italy.
    1Colorful flowers in Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Baptismal fount ... Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.1Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Tabernacle @ Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie — Rocca Piétore, Italy.Chiesa di San Bartolomeo — Caprile, Italy.Sottoguda, Italy.

    On the Way Back

    July 6 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    On our way back from Alleghe to Colle Santa Lucia, we drove in and out of several small villages to see what we could see. Some were quiet; others were more popular and hopping … nowhere to park, however, so we quickly moved on.

    Where we spent the longest time was in the quiet commune of Rocca Piétore … so quiet, in fact, that we did not see another soul around. What drew us to drive across the bridge was a small church — Chiesa di Santa Maria Maddalena — that dates back to the 16th century. Turns out the door was locked. Instead, we went to the Marian Sanctuary of Santa Maria delle Grazie … where we enjoyed seeing the lovely stained glass windows.

    We were home by 5:00p … in time for wine and snacks on the balcony.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Greeted by a welcome mural at the start of the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.
    1Looking towards the Masaré end of Lago di Alleghe — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.Mural on the side of the Mountain & Cave Rescue Corps building — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade; Col di Lana in the center — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.1Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.View of Lago di Alleghe & Col di Lana from the terrace of the restaurant — Alleghe, Italy.Town view from our table at the restaurant — Alleghe, Italy.2A delicious lunch — Alleghe, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Alleghe, Italy.Town view; the restaurant where we ate is at the Sporthotel Europa — Alleghe, Italy.Polenta is a specialty of the region ... it is cooked when it doesn't stick to the pan anymore.Mural in Alleghe, Italy.Looks like a re-purposed chicken coop — Alleghe, Italy.Mural in Alleghe, Italy.Chiesa di San Biagio — Alleghe, Italy.Chiesa di San Biagio — Alleghe, Italy.Chapel of the Black Madonna ... Chiesa di San Biagio — Alleghe, Italy.Mural in Alleghe, Italy.

    Dolomiti: A-Wander in Alleghe

    July 6 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Once we got off the cableway, we made our way to the promenade that follows the shoreline of Lago di Alleghe … which was formed in 1771 when a landslide detached from Monte Piz and blocked the flow of the Cordevole River.

    The scenery was fantastic … all the more so because it was reflected on the lake. We even had sunshine again. A light breeze kept us comfortable.

    Although there were restaurants with better star ratings away from the lake, we opted for a table on the terrace at Lavoi Ristorante Sul Lago to enjoy a quiet meal with a delightful view. Arriving about 15 minutes before the kitchen closed, we had the terrace to ourselves.

    The service was not rushed. The food was excellent … pappardelle with deer ragù for me (a regional specialty); a pulled pork sandwich for Mui. We wrapped up with gelato made in-house … highly recommended by our server. He definitely did not steer us wrong.

    After lunch, we made our way to the upper neighborhood, stopping at Chiesa di San Biagio along the way. Dating back to the 12th century, it is believed that what is today the Chapel of the Black Madonna was the church back then. Our stroll continued via narrow streets to the stairs that took us down to the parking lot where we had left the car.

    A lovely town … much larger than Colle Santa Lucia. I imagine that there are times when the town is hopping. Today wasn’t one of those days … something for which we were grateful.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Pop of color on the way to the funivia station — Alleghe, Italy.
    The village from the funivia — Alleghe, Italy.The village and Lago di Alleghe — Alleghe, Italy.At the end of the first ride; the next cableway station is ahead of us — Civetta Ski Area.The family park is quiet today — Piani di Pezzè ... Civetta Ski Area.Gondolas heading up on the next part of the funivia — Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.Chiesetta Alpina — Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.Panorama from Chiesetta Alpina — Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.L to R: Piz Zorlet 2,379m; Sasso Bianca 2,407m; Marmolada-Punta Penia 3,343m from Piani di Pezzé.Cableway to Col dei Baldi from Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.2Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.Lago di Alleghe from Piani di Pezzè, Civetta Ski Area.On our way up to Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.On our way up to Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.The chalet and Cima di Coldai and Monte Coldai (middle and right peak) — Col dei Baldi.Scenery at Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.L to R: Cime di Forca Rossa, Monte Pelmo & Monte Pelmetto ... which we see from the apartment, too.Scenery at Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.Delightful scenery at Col dei Baldi despite the clouds — Civetta Ski Area.Hot beverages @ Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.Enjoying a great cup of hot chocolate @ Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.Column decoration inside the chalet @ Col dei Baldi — Civetta Ski Area.Monte Civetta (center) from the cableway on the way down to Alleghe.The red arrows are the two funivia lines we rode today from Alleghe.

    Dolomiti: Alleghe Funivie

    July 6 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    When we asked the woman at the tourist information office to recommend a mountain village to visit nearby, she didn’t hesitate in suggesting Alleghe. Thus, that is where we headed today.

    Alleghe is settled on the shores of Lago di Alleghe … in the foothills of Monte Civetta, which rises to 10,565 feet (3,220m) above sea level. Many consider it the geographical heart of the Dolomites (which, if I haven’t mentioned it before, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site).

    When we left the apartment, the plan was to park the car, walk around Lago di Alleghe, and find a place for lunch with a view. We ended up skipping most of the middle part of that plan, replacing it with a funivia (cableway) ride up to the largest ski area in the Veneto Region.

    We had no expectation of snow at the top, but we did find the cooler temperatures that were missing in the valley. So much so that, when the wind picked up, we had to break out the jackets we had tucked into Mui’s backpack. That was the good news. The not so good? We lost the sun the further up we went. Oh well.

    The funivia consists of two separate lines. The first one goes up from Alleghe at 3,182 feet asl (970m) to Piani di Pezzè at 4,763 feet asl (1,452m). The second line goes up a further 1,542 feet (470m) to Col dei Baldi at 6,305 feet asl (1,922m). One can buy tickets for one line or both; one way or round trip. We opted for the latter in both cases.

    On a weekday, there were no lines at all. In fact, our entire time on the mountain was quiet with very few people around. Those we encountered were either heading off on a hike or returning from one of the trails.

    Within a minute or two of purchasing our tickets, we were on our way up. Getting off the first line, we walked in the direction of the station for the second line, dallying along the way to check out the views, and the Chiesetta Alpina, the tiny church near the chalet where Mui grabbed an espresso.

    Pressing onward with our second gondola ride, we spent more time at the top, enjoying the scenery despite the wind and the increasing cloud cover. At the chalet, we grabbed hot beverages — espresso for Mui, and a thick, gooey hot chocolate for me that left Mui salivating. We found seats on the terrace, out of the wind, and enjoyed our beverages with a view.

    We debated doing a hike. The one that went to Lago di Coldai promised a lake with reflections. But we had not come prepared for a three-hour, high-elevation hike. Instead, we decided to head back down to the village for lunch.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Maratona dles Dolomiti-Enel riders coming through Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.
    Maratona dles Dolomiti-Enel riders coming through Colle Santa Lucia, Italy.

    Colle Santa Lucia: Bike Marathon

    July 5 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Driving the twisty-turny two-way mountain roads require the driver’s full attention. Thus it can be quite draining … physically and mentally.

    So, after yesterday’s outing, today was planned as a ‘staycation day’ at the apartment. That worked out well as there was a bike race through the mountains today … which meant road closures.

    According to the information I found on the web, the race is the “Maratona dles Dolomiti-Enel,” a single-day granfondo that winds through seven major passes. One of the three routes covers 85+ miles (138 km) with an elevation gain of just under 14,000 feet (4,230m). The others are shorter with less gain. More power to those who participated.

    This year’s motto for the marathon was “Pax” (peace), with focus on “… a message of solidarity, mindful riding, and communal sustainability.”    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Challenge ... by Valentino Moro — Belvedere Overlook.
    Scenery from the Belvedere Overlook."Here lizard, lizard." — Belvedere Overlook.A small mural on the side of a votive shrine at the Belvedere Overlook.A votive shrine at the Belvedere Overlook.A small mural on the side of a votive shrine at the Belvedere Overlook.A more expansive view of one of the mountains we enjoy from our apartment.

    On the Way Back

    July 4 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Leaving Lago di Misurina, we planned to take an entirely different route back to Colle Santa Lucia.

    Unfortunately, we got turned around as we were leaving the parking lot. So, we followed the route from this morning through Cortina d’Ampezzo (OMG the traffic!). But then, at the junction with SP638, we stayed on SR48 for a change of scenery.

    It was well worth the few additional minutes that this detour added to our drive. As well as getting to enjoy another area of the Dolomiti — on a road that had fewer crazy hairpin turns — we came across an interesting iron and stone sculpture at the overlook near the Belvedere Grill-Bar. A plaque nearby provided an explanation about the Valentino Moro sculpture, entitled “Challenge” …

    “Poised between the earth and the sky, a severed trunk, sturdy and gnarled, stretches out into the void. A new life, a larch, rises from the branch of the stunned stem, symbolizing the triumph of the instinct to survive in every condition and circumstance. The sculpture attests the will to resist, to overcome the pain of the appalling tragedy brought on by the Vaia Storm that, in October 2018, caused the crashing of millions of trees and the destruction of thousands of hectares of forest in the alpine region of the Triveneto.”

    We had not heard of this storm … or if we did, we did not associate it with this region. Curious, when we got back to the apartment I looked up the storm. Devastating by any measure, the description I found on the “Guide Dolomiti” website was shocking to say the least. I’m adding the link here for anyone interested (you may have to translate it using your device app) … https://www.guidedolomiti.com/varie/tempesta-vaia/.

    And on that note, it’s time to call it a day and wrap up today’s outing.    Read more

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