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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

📍 San Marino Read more
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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Quiet morning in San Marino.
    Quiet morning in San Marino.

    Città di San Marino: Day 3

    Yesterday in San Marino ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    From the bedroom balcony, Mui took a ‘sneaky photo’ of me reading on the kitchen balcony and enjoying a second cup of tea.

    At that early hour, the day trippers had not yet put in an appearance and the city was nice and quiet. It was a crisp fall morning, requiring some layers to stay warm. Trust me … it warmed up nicely by the time we left to continue exploring San Marino.Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Morning view from our balcony.
    Morning view from our balcony.Città di San Marino ... deserted in the early morning hours.A government building overlooking Piazza della Libertà — Città di San MarinoThe Public Palace overlooking Piazza della Libertà & San Marino's Lady Liberty.Città di San MarinoChiesa di San Francesco — Città di San MarinoChiesa di San Francesco — Città di San MarinoPorta San Francesco, currently the main entrance to the city, dates back to 1451.The flag of the Republic of San Marino."Carving the History of Freedom" by K. Sakaguchi — Città di San Marino1The Cliff Gate ... on our way down to the trailhead.Glimpse of Borgo Maggiore on the way to the trailhead.Panorama of the lower reaches of the country ... Adriatic Sea in the distance (from the trail).Borghesi was a renowned Italian numismatist/epigraphist; moved to San Marino in 1821.In the square near the cable car terminal are 3D panels like this one for the visually challenged.From the panoramic terrace ... lower reaches of San Marino and the Adriatic Sea.Dedicated to the "Victims of the Bombing of 26 June 1944" — Città di San MarinoThe Basilica of Saint Marinus — Città di San MarinoCeiling of the nave of the Basilica of Saint Marinus — Città di San MarinoThe Basilica of Saint Marinus with the statue of the saint — Città di San MarinoThe view from our table at La Terrazza — Città di San MarinoThe view from our table at La Terrazza — Città di San MarinoLunch @ La Terrazza — Città di San MarinoCittà di San MarinoFontana al Giardino dei Liburni ... marks the inauguration of the new aqueduct in 1962.The Volunteers' Loggias houses San Marino's modern and contemporary art collection.Bronze sculpture in the Myriam Michelotti Garden — Città di San Marino1Bronze sculpture in the Myriam Michelotti Garden — Città di San Marino"La Repubblica" by Italian sculptor Vittorio Pochini (1899) — State Museum.Replicas of the "Domagnano Treasure" (originals in museums around the world) — State Museum.Replica cloisonné piece from the Domagnano Treasure — State Museum.An old Coat of Arms from the Porta San Francesco — State Museum.19th century statue of "La Libertà" by Stefano Galletti — State Museum.18th century painting of a view of San Marino with St Marinus, the stonemason — State Museum.19th century bas-relief carving of Deacon St Marinus — State Museum.17th century ceramic plates depicting Spanish soldiers — State Museum.Bell crater type of Gnathia (type of Italian pottery) late 4th-early 3rd century BCE.

    Città di San Marino: Day 2

    September 23 in San Marino ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Another beautiful, blue-sky day … comfortably cool temps that were on the warm side in the sun.

    We set out this morning with the idea of hiking the Sentiero della Rupe (the Cliff Path) that runs above and behind the iconic towers of San Marino. The trail is only about 3 miles. However, you have to walk practically half-way down the mountain to reach the trailhead. No problem, we thought. Until we got to the trail and started hiking!

    The dirt path was strewn with decaying leaves that hid stumbling blocks waiting to trip the unwary. The uneven stone steps along the way were covered in slippery moss … with nothing to stop you from tumbling off the narrow path. We hiked for about 10 minutes, spending the entire time watching where we put our feet. And this wasn’t even the steep stretch that we were warned about.

    Nope … not fun. So, we retraced our steps to the trailhead, continued down into Borgo Maggiore, another one of this small country’s municipalities, and took the funivia (cable car) up to Città di San Marino. It took just two minutes to go back up the 1,000+ feet (305m) we had walked down in 30 minutes!

    The cable car dropped us off at the overlook in the lower reaches of San Marino. From there, we took a meandering stroll, going uphill and downhill streets … some of them relatively steep. We stopped to visit some of the sites marked on the map before going to La Terrazza, a restaurant with a panoramic view that includes the Public Palace.

    The beauty of arriving just as the restaurant was opening was that we had our pick of the two-top tables. The food was delicious; the wine perfect for our palate; and the lemon-flavored dessert very refreshing.

    After lunch, we planned to check out the council rooms at the Public Palace — one of the sites included in the combo ticket for the state museums and monuments … with the caveat that it is only possible when the parliament is not in session. No can do today, we were told. The State Museum itself was open, however, so we went there to wrap up our day of sightseeing.

    We have one more day left here and hope to use it to hike up to the towers … via the city streets that promise a steep ascent in places … but easier than a narrow, dirt path with hidden stumbling blocks.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Guaita Tower atop Mount Titano — symbol of San Marino — from the bus station.
    Guaita Tower atop Mount Titano — symbol of San Marino — from the bus station.Roundabout @ Piazzale Ex Stazione marks the location of the narrow-gauge railway; operated 1932-1944Porta della Fratta ... La Fratta (left) is where we had lunch.Delicious lunch at La Fratta.Defensive walls of San Marino.Defensive walls of San Marino.1Potable water fountain near Porta della Fratta.Città di San MarinoCittà di San MarinoCittà di San MarinoPiazzetta Garibaldi — Città di San MarinoCittà di San MarinoRelief of Saint Marinus, the legendary stone mason and founder of San Marino.Francesco Messina's life-sized bronze figure in Piazzetta del Titano — Città di San MarinoFrom the steps ... watching the supermarket while Mui shopped inside.Cute doggie — Città di San MarinoThe tower of the Church and Museum of St Francis — Città di San MarinoFountain with stone carving of the coat of arms of San Marino.San Marino Coat of Arms: the iconic towers atop the peaks of Mt Titano.1Stephanie Krome's "Mother & Son" — Città di San Marino1Dedicated to the children who were killed in terrorist attack/school hostage crisis in Beslan (2004)Porta Nova ... part of the third line of defensive walls — Città di San Marino."Conversion of a Very Happy Woman" by A. Piras — Città di San MarinoFrom the tower at Porta Nova.View from the Tower at Porta Nova — Città di San MarinoStairs from Porta Nova up to Porta della Frata.Star of David, Christian Cross, and Islamic Crescent on the belfry of the Nuova Chapel.View from our apartment with the Cesta Tower in the distance.Cesta Tower from our apartment.

    And the Answer Is … San Marino!

    September 22 in San Marino ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    The Republic of San Marino … the world’s 5th smallest country … and perhaps the oldest constitutional republic as well, with a claim of having been founded in 301 CE. That’s where a 2 ½-hour train/bus trip from Bologna brought us today.

    This microstate, entirely surrounded by Italy, is situated on the slopes of the Apennine Mountains. Its capital city — also named San Marino — is one of the nine castelli (municipalies) into which the country is divided.

    The City of San Marino (or simply San Marino here on out) is a medieval walled city with narrow cobblestone streets. It sits atop Monte Titano … the highest point of the country.

    Most people visit San Marino on a day trip. We’re staying three nights at a property that is in the high reaches of the city … just a short hike below the iconic towers set into the defensive walls. We’re looking forward to enjoying the peace and quiet before the day trippers arrive and again after they leave.

    Since we did not want to negotiate the steep cobblestone streets with our carry-on bags in tow, we arranged for the hotel to pick us up from the bus stop outside the city walls. Once we checked in at Hotel Rosa, we left our bags with the front desk and went off to have lunch.

    From the list of restaurant recommendations provided by the hotel, we settled on La Fratta … which turned out to be next door … though we took a roundabout way to get there. We were seated at a table along the railing of the balcony …overlooking Porta della Fratta … the entrance into the city through the older second set of walls. Tasty food; a glass of chilled Sangiovese di San Marino; a delicious crema de catalan served with a scoop of pistachio gelato. A perfect start to our time in San Marino.

    Our apartment was ready by the time we finished lunch, but we decided to walk off our meal first and get some groceries from the only ‘supermarket’ in the city. Our walk gave us an opportunity to meander through the streets, do a bit of window-shopping, and even get ‘acquainted’ with some of the stairs that take people from one level of the city to the next.

    We’re now settled into the apartment — recently renovated, clean, and spacious … though missing ‘decorative touches’ that would make it homey. Time to put together a plate of snacks and watch something on Netflix.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.
    Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.1

    La Piazza si Riaccende

    September 19 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 75 °F

    “The Square Rekindling” … at Piazza Maggiore … the main square, around the corner from where we live.

    An exciting three-night event … a light & music show … the first night of which was part of a crowdfunding campaign that included a concert … and seating. We went tonight instead … to see the first of three nightly standing-room only shows scheduled at 9:00p, 10:00p, and 11:00p. The event lasts about 10-15 minutes, so standing was not an issue.

    The premise of the show is to bring to life the unfinished façade of the Basilica di San Petronio … set to the music of Rossini’s William Tell Overture. The building is used as a canvas for a videomapping installation conceived by Luca Agnani. The projected images depict the different architectural designs that were proposed over the centuries to complete the façade … including a more contemporary “green” tribute.

    Arriving about ½-hour before the show, we found the piazza crowded. It wasn’t long before it was literally packed. We wanted a slightly elevated place to stand so that I could see over all the taller-than-me people. We lucked out with a spot on the steps of the building across the square from the basillica. We were slightly off-center, and the canopies protecting the equipment were a bit of an irritant, but it was otherwise the perfect spot for viewing the show.

    As magnificent — and sometimes over-the-top — as the proposed façades were, I’m glad the basilica has remained as is. Its ‘unfinished’ look gives it a unique identity that seems to fit perfectly into the square where it is located.

    A great show … and worth postponing our upcoming trip by a few days to make sure we didn’t miss it!

    (The video is too long to post here, so I am including a photo slide-show. If you wish to see the video itself, click this link to go to my SmugMug Gallery for Bologna: https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Europe/BCIT/ExpIT/Bl….)    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)

    On Hiatus for a Week

    August 23 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Yes, yes … I know my footprints are always slow to come when we are traveling. Can you blame me? Maybe. But I am out experiencing new things … new places. That’s more important. The writing, I feel, can follow.

    Quick summary … we completed our Havila Voyage in Bergen; flew to Copenhagen for a short stay; and are now in Germany … aboard NCL Sun for a 7-day cruise … the last part of our ‘escape the heat’ plan for August.

    On this leg of our trip, we will have no wi-fi or data … except when we are ashore. And, well … that’s when I will be busy ‘enjoying the moment’.

    So the footprints will just have to come to a screeching halt until we return to Bologna at the end of the month.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    1Approaching Brønnøysund.
    1Approaching Brønnøysund.2The Brønnøysund sign ... marking the geographic center of Norway.585 miles (840 km) between north and south ... geographic center of Norway.The bridge that crosses to Lille Brønnøya.Pop of color at the park on Lille Brønnøya.The pedestrian bridge at the other end of Lille Brønnøya.Brønnøysund Church2Brønnøysund Church & Fishermen's MemorialFishermen's Memorial from 1859.Sailing out of Brønnøysund.Sailing out of Brønnøysund we pass the bridge that links to Lille Brønnøya.Bye bye Brønnøysund.3Torghatten is a unique landmark ... a mountain with a hole in it.

    SB Day 10: Brønnøysund

    August 17 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    Today’s long stop — one hour and 15 minutes in Brønnøysund — was scheduled for 3:00p. By then, any hope for sunshine was gone.

    The small coastal town greeted us with a stiff wind, that occasionally carried rain drops with it. We didn’t let that deter us from going ashore. The locals were smarter … at home, at work, or in the mall … cozy and warm, protected from the wind.

    We went for a wander around town, following the waterfront. We passed the mall … though we did walk through it on the way back; strolled by the local pub, which used to be a barber as well as a bar at one time; found the Brønnøysund sign that marks the geographic center of Norway … Lindenes Lighthouse 585 miles (840 km) to the south; Nordkapp an equal distance to the north.

    Continuing from there, we crossed over to the park on Lille Brønnøya (Little Spring Island) … using the bridge that connects it to the rest of the town. Billed as a cultural hub and a place for festivals, the park was all but deserted today. So, we continued inland from there toward the church, which was consecrated in 1870. Alas, it was closed, so we had to be satisfied with wandering the grounds … where we found a memorial from 1859 to the fishermen from Brønnøysund who lost their lives at sea.

    We were hoping that we’d find a place for a quick bite on the way back, but nothing really grabbed our attention, and the ice cream shop was closed. So, we meandered back to the ship, arriving a few minutes before the all-aboard.

    Around 6:00p, we joined Andy and Wendy for dinner at our assigned table … but did have to beg leave later to go out on the bow on deck 6 forward when the cruise director advised that we would be making a quick detour for a glimpse of the hole in the center of Torghatten, a granite mountain that is 850 feet (258m) asl.

    The scientific explanation for the hole … it was carved out of the softer rock by glacial ice and water during the Scandinavian Ice Age.

    But what mountain with such a unique feature wouldn’t have a legend associated with it? 😄

    According to Norse folklore, the hole was made when a troll king shot an arrow to stop the beautiful girl he was trying to abduct from escaping his clutches. The king of Sømna threw his hat in the path of the arrow to stop it from hitting the girl … and the hat turned into the mountain with a hole … which explains the name … Torghatten = the hat of Torg.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    2The Seven Sisters Mountain Range hide themselves behind clouds.
    2The Seven Sisters Mountain Range hide themselves behind clouds.Seven Sisters Mountain RangeLooking aft on deck 9, we have blue skies to brighten our day.Clouds await us ... looking forward from deck 9.2Alstahaug Church; one of three medieval churches in Helgeland; dating to the 12th century.Stone memorial to 17th-century Baroque poet/clergyman Petter Dass who served at Alstahaug Church.The Migdale is a live-fish carrier that services regional fish farms.

    SB Day 10: Brønnøysund Bound

    August 17 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    Leaving Sandnessjøen, Mui went down to the cabin for a nap … I set myself up at ‘my table’ in the Havblikk Lounge, going outside whenever something caught my eye.

    I was especially hoping to see the Seven Sisters Mountain Range … which is associated with a legend. Trolls, of course.

    The short story is that seven troll sisters took advantage of their father sleeping one night to escape his watchful eye. What they didn’t know was that Vågekallen was lying in wait for them, hoping to catch one of the girls — if not more. What followed was a pursuit with other trolls joining in to rescue them. Unfortunately, they all forgot to keep an eye on the rising sun. And as dawn broke, they were all turned to stone.

    As it turns out, the peaks were mostly hidden by clouds, so all we got was a peek-a-boo view.

    At one point, we had beautiful blue skies … but only in one direction … and only for a short time. But seeing the bright scenery did wonders and elevated everyone’s mood.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    2Reflections in Ørnes ... courtesy of Mui.
    2Reflections in Ørnes ... courtesy of Mui.Reflections in Ørnes ... courtesy of Mui.Reflections in Ørnes ... courtesy of Mui.Reflections in Ørnes ... courtesy of Mui.Reflections in Ørnes ... courtesy of Mui.

    SB Day 10: Ørnes Reflections

    August 17 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Our day started with a quick 20-minute stop in Bodø. At 2:30a, we both slept through it.

    Next stop … Ørnes for 10 minutes at 6:25a found me still asleep. But Mui was up as usual, enjoying a cup of coffee in the lounge.

    Knowing my love of reflections, he surprised me by returning to the cabin with photos he took … red cabins mirrored on the flat calm waters.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    A-wander in Svolvær.
    A-wander in Svolvær.Mui, with Andy & Wendy; they don't realize I am taking a reflection photo of the church tower 😃Replica of a snacks and goods kiosk that stood here between 1916-1960.A-wander in Svolvær.Who is that coming down the path? It's ... (see next photo).... "the Walking Woman (aka Hedda), a painted bronze statue by Sean Henry.Hedda and the Svolvær Church, which was painted in camo colors during WWII."Eye of the North" ... mirrored sculpture by Jeppe Hein; 26 feet (8m) tall / 16 feet (5m) wide2Mirrored in Jeppe Hein's "Eye of the North."Painting on the wall of a gallery.Statue of Jack Berntsen, known as the troubadour of North Norway.Pops of color on a drizzly evening in Svolvær.Fish drying racks.Poster at the ferry terminal in Svolvær.Warehouses on the shoreline.m/s Havila Castor awaiting us at the ferry terminal.Bye bye Svolvær ... hello m/s Havila Capella.

    SB Day 9: Svolvær … A-Wander

    August 16 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Leaving the Lofoten War Memorial Museum, we went for a stroll around town, heading in the direction of the church … even though we knew it was closed. We did find a few things of interest in the park behind the church, so the walk wasn’t for naught, and it gave us a chance to stretch our legs.

    We returned to the ship shortly before it was due to depart from Svolvær. For some reason, though, the ship was delayed by almost an hour. Perhaps a ship’s excursion late returning to the ship. Or, to ensure we passed m/s Havila Capella for the traditional flag waving between the two ships.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Lofoten War Memorial Museum in Svolvær occupies the ground floor.
    Lofoten War Memorial Museum in Svolvær occupies the ground floor.Lofoten War Memorial Museum is filled with non-partisan displays.Many of the items on display are personal in nature.Patriotic plate with Churchill and the HMS Warspite ... a Queen Elisabeth class battleship.Instructions for Allied pilots in case of emergency landings in Russia.Helmet worn by a pilot who participated in the sinking of the Tirpitz.German postage stamps.Torpedo survival badges.The "Gestapo Office" at the museum.Jumping jacks created by the Danish Resistance.Norwegian soldier ... 1940 ... from the Narvik front.One of the infamous Enigma code machines.Replica of Göring's presentation pistol ... a luger.Hiding places for radios and headsets ... the dental plate is the most ingenious.Guitar made by a POW from Poland using matchsticks.Top: Norwegian police soldier after liberation; Bottom: "The King is Back (7 June 1945)."Svolvær Church in camo painting as ordered by the Wehrmacht.Many Samis functioned as guides for those fleeing to neutral Sweden.Lofoten War Memorial Museum.The museum prides itself on its collection of never-before published photos.Hitler and generals inspecting Big Gustav; largest caliber rifled weapon ever built.Hitler's failed "Polar Eisenbahn" (Polar Railway) exhibit; the project used prisoner-labor.The work on the failed project, later benefited Norway ... used to bring the railway to Bodø.American products commonly used by soldiers during WWII.Many children in north Norway helped POWs from Serbia and Russia with food.Lofoten War Memorial MuseumTaxidermied Golden Eagle

    SB Day 9: Svolvær … Lofoten Krigsminnemuseum

    August 16 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Today’s long stop came late in the day.

    Cruising for three hours after exiting Trollfjord, we were scheduled to arrive in Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands around 6:30p. Since we would be out and about in town during our designated dinner time, we went to the dining room for an early meal.

    Disembarking the ship, we were struck by how quiet it was in town. Ahhh, yes … Sunday! So, when we realized that the Lofoten War Memorial Museum was about the only place open, we ended up spending much of our time there.

    Part of the Museum Nord organization now, it was established as a private museum in 1996 by a man named William Hakvaag. An avid collector of all things related to WWII, he described his museum as “non-partisan.” Indeed we found everything from Norwegian, to German, to Allied Forces in the exhibit.

    Something I didn’t know is that the first WWII raid of any consequence happened in the German-occupied Lofoten Islands on 4 March 1941. Many of the Norwegians who fought in the battle around Narvik was from the Lofotens. Thus, it’s not surprising that the nucleus of the artifacts on exhibit are local and personal.

    Despite the small size of the museum, the collection is incredibly extensive and eclectic. Every nook and cranny is filled with objects from WWII … including what is generally accepted as being Norway’s largest collection of WWII military uniforms.

    If there was any rhyme or reason to the way the displays were set up, it wasn’t immediately apparent to us. Frankly, as interesting as the museum was, it was also a bit overwhelming. We ended up simply wandering around, stopping to read labels when something caught our eye. I’m sure we missed a great deal more than what we actually saw.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Hadsel Church ... sits on a site where a church was first mentioned as being present in 1321.
    Hadsel Church ... sits on a site where a church was first mentioned as being present in 1321.Heading towards the narrowest part of Raftsundet Strait.Raftsundet StraitHeading toward Trollfjord.Along Raftsundet Strait.Along Raftsundet Strait.Raftsundet StraitAlong Raftsundet Strait.2Waterfall along Raftsundet Strait.Along Raftsundet Strait.Along Raftsundet Strait.Trollfjord strait ahead.Sea eagle ... not the best video; but worth saving for the memory.Entering Trollfjord.1TrollfjordThere is a hydroelectric power station at the head of Trollfjord.Trollfjord as we begin the return journey.Nearing the mouth of Trollfjord on our way out.

    SB Day 9: Raftsundet Strait & Trollfjord

    August 16 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We were hoping for sunshine — or at least dry conditions — for the special Trollfjord detour that we knew was on today’s schedule … though the exact timing was not known until this afternoon.

    No can do. We had overcast skies and rain … from drizzle to light and steady. Those who had stayed up for the Trollfjord cruise on the northbound leg told us that the weather was worse. Plus, they had to contend with nightfall.

    Trollfjord — home to the oldest rocks in Norway — is an arm of Raftsundet Strait. Short and narrow — only about 1.5 mile (2.5 km) long and a little less than 330 feet (100m) wide at its narrowest point — access to this fjord is limited to small vessels. Coastal ferries can cruise in and out … provided conditions are optimal. That we were able to do so today is something for which to be grateful … regardless of the rain that was a constant companion.

    There is a legend associated with Trollfjord that explains how the fjord was formed. As one might expect in Norway, the main characters are trolls — Vågåkallen and one-eyed Hinnøy. The story involves a feud over whose cows can graze the pastures along the Raftsundet Strait.

    I am sure that if you search the web, you’ll find at least one version of the legend. The short story has the two trolls engaged in a heated fight; Hinnøy falls and his axe creates gash in the earth; when he pulls the blade out, the sea floods an inland lake; and thus the fjord is formed. There’s more to the story, which involves a goat being hurled to a mountain top, but that is neither here nor there.

    Bundled up in our rain gear, we opted to watch the in/out Trollfjord cruise from the ship’s bow … deck 6 forward. There were fewer people here, allowing us to move around to various vantage points. Once we reached the head of the fjord, the m/s Havila Castor sviveweled 180-degrees in place and cruised back out the way it came in.

    Once we left the fjord, we headed indoors to relax with a cup of hot tea while the ship continued onward to today’s long stop in the early evening.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Welcome to Stokmarknes.
    Welcome to Stokmarknes.1I love these coastal cottages that add color and charm.1Some of the cottages are former fishermen's houses (rorbuer) converted into vacation homes.The white building is the Hurtigrutemuseet.If you look closely, you can see the upper decks of the m/s Finnmarken in the museum.On our way to the museum from where our ship docked ... less than 5 minutes away.m/s Finnmarkenm/s Finnmarken plied the coastal express route before it was retired in 1993.2m/s Finnmarken ... one of the several lounges.m/s FinnmarkenOne of several lounges on m/s Finnmarken.Mosaic artwork in one of the lounges on m/s Finnmarken.Public restroom near one of the lounges on m/s Finnmarken.Dining room on m/s Finnmarken.Passageway ... m/s Finnmarken.m/s FinnmarkenShared facilities ... m/s Finnmarkenm/s Finnmarkenm/s FinnmarkenThis stateroom came with en-suite facilities ... m/s Finnmarken.Galley ... m/s Finnmarken.Galley ... m/s Finnmarken.m/s FinnmarkenCargo deck ... m/s Finnmarken.m/s FinnmarkenLifeboats ... m/s Finnmarken.Bridge ... m/s Finnmarken.Communications room ... m/s Finnmarken.Sleeping quarters connecting to the communications room ... m/s Finnmarkenm/s Finnmarkenm/s Finnmarken25'1" tall, I provide perspective for the size of the propeller ... m/s Finnmarken.On the way back to our modern vessel, I grab a quick reflection in a water puddle.Looks like we're carrying a car, too ... in the cargo compartment rather than on deck.Bye bye Stokmarknes ... as it begins to rain.

    SB Day 9: Stokmarknes … Hurtigrutemuseet

    August 16 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Departing Sortland for our next port, we had rain on and off. A good time to watch the scenery go by from the comfort of a lounge … a cup of hot tea in hand.

    The distance to Stokmarknes was relatively short … took us just over an hour. We were scheduled to be in port for an hour … leaving us with 50 minutes to see what we could see. Not much in town, we were told by the cruise director … along with the suggestion to check out the Hurtigrutemuseet … less than 5-minutes on foot from where our ship would be docked. So, that’s what we did.

    I’ve mentioned that Hurtigruten is Havila’s competition. The other way around is probably a more accurate description, since Hurtigruten began plying the coastal express waters in 1893. Its name literally means “the express route.” As such, the museum is dedicated to the history of the ‘route, rather than the ‘company’ itself. As closely as the two are intertwined, however, the lines between them are definitely blurred.

    Hurtigrutemuseet — aka the Coastal Express Museum — is owned and operated by Museum Nord, a regional museum organization in Northern Norway. It works in close cooperation with Hurtigruten, however, as the company has not only contributed historical artifacts and archival photos, but also a retired coastal vessel.

    The m/s Finnmarken — which is on display in the purpose-built glass building — is the focal point of the museum. In fact, if you look closely at the building as your vessel approaches Stokmarknes, you can make out the ship inside … like a ship-in-a-bottle, if you will. I bet it is quite a sight to see when approaching the after nightfall as the vessel is lit up and more clearly visible then.

    Our visit to the museum was fast-paced … not nearly enough time to read the info panels and also wander the decks of the Finnmarken … built in 1956 and retired in 1993. So, we focused on the ship, figuring we could read more about the history of the route online. Even then, we didn’t get to see everything … the engine room being one of the places we skipped.

    Going aboard the ship, which is often described as the “last classic Hurtigruten ship,” was fun and interesting. That we managed to do so without tumbling down the steep ladders … or bruising our shins on the ‘knee-knockers’ … well that was a bonus 😜

    (knee-knockers = maritime slang for coamings, the high sills at the bottom of doors on ships)    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Almost under the bridge as we approach Sortland.
    Almost under the bridge as we approach Sortland.Glimpse of Sortland as we approach the bridge.1Looking back at the Sortland Bridge.The blue buildings are part of an ongoing art initiative ... "The Blue Town by the Strait."The Sortland Church dates back to 1899.Sortland ChurchThe old bell tower of Sortland.Sortland ... rural area along the shoreline.

    SB Day 9: Sortland

    August 16 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Around 12:30p, m/s Havila Castor arrived at its berth in Sortland … a 30-minute stop. One of the unique things about this stop is that the timing of the “Taste of Vesterålen” excursion bus is timed to coincide with the ship sailing under the Sortland Bridge. I looked but didn’t see a bus.Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Approaching the channel in the Risøy Strait.
    Approaching the channel in the Risøy Strait.Approach to Risøyhamn.4Lined up with the others for the approach to Risøyhamn. Which one am I?Approach channel to Risøyhamn.Approach channel to Risøyhamn ... Andøy Bridge to the left.Approach channel to Risøyhamn.Cormorant on one of the buoys of the approach channel.1From the approach channel to Risøyhamn.Risøyhamn from the approach channel.Risøyhamn from the approach channel.Looking back towards the mouth of the approach channel.Bye-bye Risøyhamn.Going under the Andøy Bridge after we leave Risøyhamn.1Squiggly reflections of the bridge piers.1Andøy Bridge went into service in 1974 ... it's about ½ mile long.

    SB Day 9: Risøyhamn

    August 16 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    The approach to the small village of Risøyhamn requires the ship to transit a long, narrow channel marked with buoys. The channel, which opened in 1992, makes it far easier for larger vessels, such as the Havila and Hurtigruten mail ships, to navigate the Risøy Strait.

    With the rain letting up, we joined the many other passengers who lined up at the railing on deck 9 forward to enjoy the approach. It was a bit chilly because of the wind-generated by the ship’s forward movement, but lovely nonetheless.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    A closeup of Trondenes Church, which is at least the second one built here; dating back to 1440.
    A closeup of Trondenes Church, which is at least the second one built here; dating back to 1440.These are the only trees on this islet.Continuing south after Harstad.Continuing south after Harstad.Pop of red along the shoreline.Two pops of red ... and reflections to boot.Continuing south after Harstad.Islets are havens for birds.Continuing south after Harstad.Fish farm as we continue south.Continuing south after Harstad.Continuing south after Harstad.Continuing south after Harstad.Continuing south after Harstad.

    SB Day 9: Risøyhamn Bound

    August 16 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Leaving Harstad, we had about two hours to chill before our 15-minute stop in Risøyhamn.

    Settling myself at what I have dubbed ‘my table’ at the back of the Havblikk Bar, I spent much of that time wandering the outside decks, checking out the views, and enjoying the fresh air … going inside when it rained … on and off.Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Grytøya ... barely a hint of sunrise color left as we begin the approach to Harstad.
    Grytøya ... barely a hint of sunrise color left as we begin the approach to Harstad.Trondenes Church in its rural setting as we approach Harstad.Tom from Customer Service invites Mui into the control room for the passenger gangway.A closer look at the monitor showing the various camera angles during the gangway deployment.Can you see Mui? I think he's the only one who went ashore.Mural on the side of a warehouse.1Yellow tower = bank bldg from 1906; white tower = Frimurerlogen (Masonic Lodge).Apartment complex and ferry terminal.A peek through the buildings at the communal garden for the residents.A peek through the buildings of the apartment complex reveals a larger communal garden.Harstad Church (1958); designed by the same architect who designed the Arctic Cathedral in Tromsø.Harbor Admin Bldg close up by Mui ... built in 1913; destroyed by a fire and rebuilt in 1919.1Mui made it back to the ship!Departing Harstad.Selsbanes Seil is Harstad's prominent water jet; reminds me of the one in Geneva, Switzerland.2Looking back as we depart Harstad.A rainbow pride flag is painted on the Gammelbrygga (old wharf).Grytøya ... continuing our journey south.

    SB Day 9: Harstad

    August 16 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Our first port this morning was Finnsness. It was at 4:20a. As you might expect, we were fast asleep during that 20-minute stop. As close as we are to both gangways, that we aren’t awakened by port operations is a good thing.

    With a ½-hour stop scheduled in Harstad, we went to breakfast early. Once we were docked, Mui hopped off for the 20-minutes he was allowed to be ashore to get a close-up photo for me of the current harbor admin building. I didn’t attempt to walk the distance myself … with my short legs, I would have had to triple time it in the allotted time.

    While he was on shore, I took advantage of the dry conditions to break out my Nikon Coolpix P950 to zoom in on some of the distant scenery that caught my eye.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Blåisen Glacier (???)
    Blåisen Glacier (???)

    SB Day 8: Blåisen Glacier … Maybe

    August 15 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    The coordinates and the timing embedded in this photo make me think this might be Blåisen Glacier. Even the literal translation of the glacier’s name — Blue Ice — seems appropriate for what we saw. But I cannot be sure.

    Regardless, it is another one of the glaciers around the world that seems to be shrinking at an alarming rate.

    We were at dinner when the ship made its 15-minute stop in Skjervøy … so no photos. We are now dining with Andy and Wendy from Kansas City, Missouri during lunch and dinner … at a table in the center aft … with the glass wall behind us. Having table companions means that meals take a little longer, but it’s nice to while away the time chatting as we enjoy our food.

    One more stop tonight … shortly before midnight … in Tromsø. There’s a midnight concert excursion at a church in the city … for those interested. I’m sure we’ll be fast asleep by then.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Mountains and clouds en route to Øksfjord.
    Mountains and clouds en route to Øksfjord.Mountains and clouds en route to Øksfjord.2Mountains and clouds en route to Øksfjord.Mountains and clouds en route to Øksfjord.Sunshine! ... mountains and clouds en route to Øksfjord.

    SB Day 8: Øksfjord Bound … Mountains & Clouds

    August 15 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    With our late departure from Hammerfest, our scheduled arrival at the next port — Øksfjord for 15 minutes — was pushed back as well. More time to relax.

    At one point, I noticed that the clouds in the distance looked so fluffy and soft. Like bowl full of whipped cream. I approached the window. And just at that moment a surprise sighting made my entire afternoon. A whale surfaced right in front of the window, showed its dorsal fin, and then slipped back below the surface. It happened in the blink of an eye. No time to do anything but record it in my brain cells.

    The funny thing is, when Mui and I find ourselves contemplating the sea while we cruise from one place to another, we say something like … “All we need is for a whale to pop up.” Well, that’s exactly what happened with this whale. When I called out the sighting to Mui, however, he thought I was kidding him. He wouldn’t have made it to the window in time to see it anyway.

    Mui did make it up to deck 8 aft for the complimentary moose sausage tasting a bit later. Sorry … he left his phone behind, so no photos.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Town Hall; the town embraces the polar bear as its symbol even though there are no bears here.
    Town Hall; the town embraces the polar bear as its symbol even though there are no bears here.The statue was a gift to the town by US Ambassador Bay; his mother hailed from Hammerfest.Harbor view ... with m/s Havila Castor at the ferry terminal.Norwegian Chef/Adventurer; amongst his many voyages is the one that took Amundsen to the South Pole.M/S Mårøy (white ship) ... served as a passenger vesssel in Finnmark from 1959 to 1980.St Michael's Church; built with donations from Germany for compensation for WWII destruction.Mosaic mural on the exterior of St Michael's Church ... featuring the saint fighting the dragon.Carved entrance doors of St Michael's Church.Stained glass window featuring the previous churches — St Michael's Church.Stained glass window in the stairwell at St Michael's Church.Stained glass wall at the St Michael's church.Colorful mural one one of the side streets in Hammerfest.The Blue Pavilion from the path behind the park.The Blue Pavilion was a gift to Hammerfest during the town's 200th jubilee in 1989.A remembrance selfie at the Blue Pavilion.Street art entitled "Around the World."Hammerfest Church ... built to resemble traditional fish drying racks.Destroyed by the Nazis in 1944, the current church was built in the 1950s.Stained glass window by Jandar Lunde.Pipe organ from 1782; chandelier is one of two from 1750.Children's art work depicting the last supper — Hammerfest Church.Memorial commemorating the British attack on Hammerfest during the Napoleonic Wars in 1809.Info panel at the Church Park, which was the site of at least two churches that were destroyed.Hammerfest Harbor; building on the right is the Arctic Culture Center.2Can't resist a reflection; Stril Barents is a multi-purpose off-shore Arctic support vessel.Bunkering LNG in Hammerfest.LNG Bunkering ... from our cabin window.Hammerfest church as the ship continues south.Located on Melkøya Island, Hammerfest LNG Plant is Europe's first large-sale LNG facility.The natural gas processed here is transported 88+ miles (143km) from a field in the Barents Sea.At the supermarket, Mui found one of favorite Turkish beverages.

    SB Day 8: Hammerfest

    August 15 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    We had the most number of ports of any given day of our voyage today — starting with Mehamn, Kjøllefjord, and Honningsvåg … all in the wee hours of the morning. Slept through all of those. We stopped in Havøysund at 8:00a … heavy rain, so no photos.

    Thus I am moving on to today’s long stop — Hammerfest — where, on our first visit in 2019, Mui and I became honorary members of the “Royal & Ancient Polar Bear Society.” Of course, there are no polar bears in Hammerfest. But that hasn’t stopped the town from embracing the great white bear as a symbol in its coat of arms. In this instance, the polar bear apparently represents the importance of the town as an Arctic hunting and trading post.

    Our stop here was about 1½ hours. No rain; just overcast with threatening clouds … unlike the blue-skies we had when we were here seven years ago. We docked at the ferry pier in the city center, so no long walk this time to get where we wanted to go.

    We had previously hiked the Sikksakkveien — a path that was developed to stop the locals from using the ‘less-than-safe-for-humans’ trails created by goats as they browsed the grass on the steep hillside. So we skipped it this time. Instead, we followed the DIY-walk recommended by the author of the “Coastal Ferry Guidebook.” Some of the stops along the route were familiar. Nonetheless we enjoyed this chance to stretch our legs.

    One memorable experience we did not get to experience this time was seeing Hvaldimir … the beluga whale that was a fixture in the harbor for a while. He left Hammerfest for points unknown soon after we saw him 2019 and hasn’t been back since.

    (Here’s a link to my footprint about Hvaldimir: https://findpenguins.com/52z11qkijr3ou/footprin….)

    We returned to the ship a few minutes before the appointed all aboard time. As we were preparing to go up the gangway, we noticed that the m/s Havila Castor was bunkering LNG. Clouds of cryogenic vapor was floating around at ground level … the transfer hose was encapsulated in frost. No wonder … the LNG flowing through the hose is at a ‘balmy’ -260F (-162C) … yes, those are minus temperatures, folks!

    I later read that Hammerfest LNG, which is Europe’s first large-scale LNG facility, is the one we saw as we passed Melkøya Island on our way into Hammerfest. No surprise then that the bunkering was done here.

    Once we were onboard, we got so busy that I didn’t realize our departure was delayed. No idea why and not sure exactly when we left … but it was almost 1:30p when we passed Hammerfest Church, with its distinctive shape … mimicking the traditional fish drying racks of the region.

    (To see photos from sunny Hammerfest: https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Cruises/NoGlow/NoGlo….)    Read more

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