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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

📍 Turkey Read more
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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Pouring melted & browned butter over our single-portion döner orders ... Özev — Kemeraltı, İzmir.
    We each ordered a single-portion İskender döner ... Özev — Kemeraltı, İzmir.2Extra frothy ayran (yogurt drink) goes well with döner ... Özev — Kemeraltı, İzmir.Döner ... a photo I took in 2010 in Kemeraltı, Konak.Mural on a side street — Kemeraltı, İzmir.Mural on a side street — Kemeraltı, İzmir.Konak Camii (Konak Mosque) — Konak, İzmir.Konak Camii (Konak Mosque) — Konak, İzmir.Kütahya tiles surround the windows @ the Konak Camii (Konak Mosque) — Konak, İzmir.İzmir Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower) — Konak, İzmir.İzmir Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower) — Konak, İzmir.Photo-bombed by a couple of pigeons ... İzmir Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower) — Konak, İzmir.İzmir Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower) — Konak, İzmir.İzmir Saat Kulesi (Clock Tower) & Konak Camii (Konak Mosque) — Konak, İzmir.Government House; late 19th century building reconstructed true to the original after the 1930 fire.

    İzmir: Kemeraltı & Konak

    Yesterday in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    With our time in İzmir dwindling fast, Mui and I ventured into Kemeraltı today.

    Located in Konak, the most densely populated of Izmir’s 30 districts … and generally considered the city center — Kemeraltı is essentially an open-air bazaar.

    One of the largest of its kind in the world, it has been serving as İzmir’s commercial center since the 17th century. Its streets — branching off in every direction — are lined with shops where one can find everything imaginable, from clothing and 24-karat gold jewelry, to household goods and food stuff. There are restaurants, cafés, coffee and tea houses. There are historic mosques and synagogues. And so much more. It is filled with ‘life’ … crowded and loud.

    We had a bit of shopping to do, which we took care of in a hurry. And then off we went to Özev, our favorite place for döner … a massive stack of thinly layered meat that is slowly roasted on a vertical rotisserie spit. Its name comes from “dönmek” which translates as “to turn or rotate.” (Those outside of Türkiye, likely know döner as “gyro” … similar but different.)

    The dish is served as a single portion or a portion and a half … the meat layered over chunks of pide (flatbread) and covered with a generous amount of tomato sauce. If one asks for yogurt on the side, then the döner is referred to as “İskender” … named after the 19th century chef/butcher by the same name who lived in Bursa and is credited with inventing the vertical spit. Of course, an essential ingredient of İskender is the melted and browned butter that is poured over the whole thing table-side … the sizzling sound and aroma of the butter wafting over the table to tickle one’s appetite.

    Alsancak is part of the Konak District. It is a pleasant 20-30 minute walk … when the temperature allows. That wasn’t the case today. So, after our delicious lunch, we walked to the Konak tram stop for the short trip back to Alsancak. Along the way, we could not resist photo ops at the central square where two of the city’s iconic landmarks are located.

    The Konak Camii is an 18th century mosque. Octagonal in shape, it is in the style of classical Ottoman architecture. It is decorated with 19th century turquoise tiles made in Kütahya. At one time, these tiles covered the entire exterior. Today, only the window surrounds are of tile.

    The İzmir Saat Kulesi (İzmir Clock Tower) is an 82-foot (25-meter) tall historic monument located in the very heart of the square. Built in 1901 by the French architect Raymond Charles Péré, it was commissioned to celebrate the 25th anniversary of Ottoman Sultan Abdülhamid II's accession to the throne.

    Both landmarks have survived the multitude of earthquakes to which İzmir is prone … with some repairs as necessary.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2The Lucien Arkas Art Center is located in the Mistral Building in the Bayraklı District of İzmir.
    On the bond between Sonia & Robert Delaunay ... LASM — Bayraklı, İzmir.Rhythm, Joy of Life, 1930 (Robert Delaunay) ... LASM — Bayraklı, İzmir.The Delaunays & their role in reshaping modern art ... LASM — Bayraklı, İzmir.Sonia & Robert Delaunay: Crossing Paths: Early Years ... LASM — Bayraklı, İzmir.Sonia Delaunay; Rue des Grands-Augustins, Paris, c.1914 (Centre Pompidou, Kandinsky Library, Paris).Set design for the film, Le P'tit Parigot, 1926 ... decorated by Sonia with Robert's paintings."Air, Iron & Water" fresco by R. Delaunay @ the Railways Pavilion; International Exhibition, 1937.Mural by Robert Delaunay @ the Air Pavilion, International Exhibition, 1937 ... LASM — Bayraklı.Lucien Arkas Sanat Merkezi — Bayraklı, İzmir.1Series of photos from Paris ... LASM — Bayraklı, İzmir.1"People" by Oman Ünal ... courtyard of the Mistral Building ... Arkas — Bayraklı, İzmir."Medusa" by Malik Bulut ... Arkas — Bayraklı, İzmir.Mural along the Manda Creek "Medusa" by Malik Bulut — Bayraklı, İzmir.Department of Justice buildings and the Manda Creek "Medusa" by Malik Bulut — Bayraklı, İzmir."Embrace" by Marina di Prospero ... Arkas — Bayraklı, İzmir.Kitty Kat staring me down — Bayraklı, İzmir.

    İzmir: Lucien Arkas Sanat Merkezi

    June 7 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 91 °F

    “I have life within me, and color in the world.”
    ~ Robert Delaunay ~

    After spending a bit of time with mom this morning, we decided to head to the only Arkas art facility we’ve not been to yet … the Lucien Arkas Art Center … described as “… the seventh stop on the Arkas Art Route extending across İzmir, … conceived as a space in close dialogue with the city, hosting international exhibitions and collections as well as learning programs, screenings, conferences, cultural events, and gatherings.”

    Opened in April 2026, the center is a collaboration with the Centre Pompidou in Paris. Over the next five years, it is intended that Centre Pompidou will present two exhibitions from its collections at the LASM.

    The current installation, billed is “Sonia & Robert Delaunay: Inventing Modern Colour.” Known for their innovative approaches to color and light, the Delaunays are among the names that have created a transformative impact on the history of modern art.

    What we didn’t realize is that the exhibition is sort of introductory in nature … with only two Delaunay paintings from the Pompidou Centre on exhibit at the moment. Apparently the inaugural season is scheduled for September of this year.

    We were a bit disappointed when we first learned this on arrival at the center … especially since one of the two paintings, and several of the posterized-images of/by the Delaunays, bore the “no photos” warning. That said, there were interesting stories to read about the couple. There were also quotes about color and painting that were thought provoking … which is always a good thing.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    At İzmir Sanat with Mom, Hakan, and Klara ... and jacaranda blooms raining down from the trees.
    2Blue jacaranda trees at Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.Colorful flowers around the Kaskatlı Havuz @ Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.Depiction of ancient Smyrna ... which eventually became İzmir — "Between Two Lines" Exhibition.One of the earliest photos of Kadifekale, the fortress that still overlooks İzmir.Alsancak Waterfront ... postcard from the early 1900s & my photo from 2015.İzmir in the 19th century — "Between Two Lines" Exhibition.İzmir at the beginning of the 19th century — "Between Two Lines" Exhibition.Mom & Klara enjoying the "Between Two Lines" Exhibition.Karşıyaka ... postcard from the early 1900s & my photo from a ferry crossing in 2021.The Pakistan Pavilion @ Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.The Pakistan Pavilion @ Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Tesir" (Impression) Ebru Exhibition @ the Pakistan Pavilion @ Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."My Mother & Me" (S. Alkan) ... ebru adapted to ceramic — "Tesir"(Impression) Ebru Exhibition."Woman with Umbrella" (Ş. Evcil) ... collage — "Tesir" (Impression) Ebru Exhibition."Nevbahar" [Early Spring...from Persian] (S. Alkan) ... collage — "Tesir" Ebru Exhibition"Sunflowers" (H. Akay) — "Tesir" (Impression) Ebru Exhibition."Forget-Me-Not Flowers" (H. Akay) — "Tesir" (Impression) Ebru Exhibition."Wisdom of the Heart ... an adage" (Li hua Zhou) — "Tesir" (Impression) Ebru Exhibition.

    İzmir: Around Kültürpark

    June 6 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Although it was much warmer than yesterday, the temp today was forecast to be cooler than the 90F+ temps expected starting tomorrow. In other words, a good time to take mom out for some fresh air.

    For a change of pace, we were going to go to Kordon — the Alsancak waterfront. But my nephew, Hakan, was in the neighborhood and suggested that he might be able to get away for a bit to join us if we went to the fuar (fair) … which is the name by which most locals refer to Kültürpark, the green space in the center of the city. So, we jiggled our loose plans and headed in that direction.

    On this outing, we asked Klara, mom’s caregiver, to join us … to make sure she knew how to operate the ins and outs of mom’s new wheelchair … much lighter and smaller.

    We lucked out with a table in the shade at İzmir Sanat, a café at the fairgrounds. And yes, Hakan was able to join us briefly.

    Kültürpark is home to the annual İzmir International Fair, which is held … well, I’m not sure exactly when the abbreviated fair is held these days, but it was a month-long late-summer event when I was a kid growing up in İzmir. At that time, each participating country had its own pavilion to promote itself and its products. In recent years, several of the buildings have been re-purposed. Two of them host temporary exhibitions. So, after lunch, we decided to check out the current installations.

    First up … the Atlas Pavilion … “Between Two Lines: A Look at the İzmir of the Future from Today.” In addition to displaying a collection of historical photos, the exhibition “… invites the citizens to dream of a common future …” through workshops, discussions, and more. It was most interesting to see archival photos of the city … many of which ‘pre-dated us’ by a century or two 😄.

    Our visit today was necessarily quick, so if I have time before we leave, I would like to go back for a more in-depth look.

    On our way to the Lozan Gate of the fairgrounds, we stopped to check out a second installation … at what is still referred to as the Pakistan Pavilion. Featured at this group exhibition, entitled “Tesir” (Impression), was art created using the “ebru” (marbling) technique. It was different in many ways from the “ebru” exhibition we went to earlier this week as many of the pieces were collages. We all enjoyed the colorful art, but with no A/C inside the pavilion, it was a bit uncomfortable in the mid-day heat.

    Thus we wrapped up two weeks of our three-week trip to İzmir. How time flies when you are having fun!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2"Hearth" by R.F. Balım — Alsancak, İzmir.
    Untitled painting by Ü. Bilir — Alsancak, İzmir.1"The Face of Broken Time" by G. Yalçın — Alsancak, İzmir."İzmir" by S. Oralerkaya — Alsancak, İzmir.2"Looking Toward Autumn" by R. Saraçoğlu — Alsancak, İzmir."Dance of the Orchids" by Ö. Evcil — Alsancak, İzmir."Kastamonu" [a city in Northern Türkiye] by T. Enginoğlu — Alsancak, İzmir."Girl" by N. Kervan — Alsancak, İzmir.

    İzmir: TSF … Through Time

    June 3 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    We were about to leave the Archaeology Museum when Mui noticed another temporary art exhibition in one of the rooms.

    “Zamanın İçinden” (Through Time) … a group exhibition featuring a number of different painters and sculptors. Studying the works on display, I could not find the thematic thread that connects them with the title of the exhibition. Nor did a search on the internet later provide any information that might have shed light on what we saw.

    Nonetheless, we enjoyed seeing the colorful artwork … thus wrapping up today’s outing.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Cyprus-style terracotta figurine from Old Smyrna (Archaic Period [c. 800-480 BCE in Ancient Greece])
    Scale weight made from bronze (Eastern Roman Period b/w 476-1453 CE).Glass and tile bead necklace (Archaic-Classical-Hellenistic Period).Painted glass amphoriskos and alabastron used to store/dispense scented oils, perfumes, and such.1Terracotta oinophoros designed to carry or serve wine (Roman Period b/w 2nd century BCE to 1453 CE).Terracotta pithos grave from Yeşilova (Early Bronze Age [c. 3300-2000 BCE]).1Terracotta dinos from Pitane-Çandarlı (Orientalizing Period [750-600BCE]).Terracotta lekane (serving dish) rom Pitane-Çandarlı (Orientalizing Period [750-600BCE]).Squat Lekythos (used to dispense oils or perfume) with the figure of a winged youth; likely Eros.Collection of Orientalizing Period amphorae, plates w/stands, and urns.Mural depicting medical practices during antiquity.Marble statue of of Asklepios from Metropolis (Hellenistic Period [c. 330-30 BCE]).Glass jars and stirring sticks used in medical practices (Roman Period).2Mural depicting Alexander the Great as he dreams about founding Smyrna (today's İzmir) in 334 BCE.Marble statue of Athena from the Vedius Gymnasium @ Ephesus (Roman Period).Marble statue of a philosopher from Ephesus (Roman Period)1Terracotta rython (drinking/pouring vessel) from Old Smyrna (Archaic Period [750-480 BCE]).Gold myrtle leaves (Ephesus; Hellenistic Period) & glass necklace stone (Roman Period).2Collection of gold jewelry from Roman/Classical/Hellenistic Periods.Bronze oil lamp (Hellenistic Period [334-30 BCE]).Terracotta figurine from Neonteikhos [modern day Menemen] (Hellenistic Period).1Collection of terracotta women's heads (Classical Period from 6th to 4th century BCE).One of several dioramas at the museum ... this one depicting a marble workshop.Marble lid of a sarcophagus from c. 220 CE ... depicting a reclining couple.Marble sarcophagus (Roman Period).

    İzmir: TSF … Archaeology Museum

    June 3 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    Officially, there are two museums at the Tekel Sanat Fabrikası (Tekel Arts Factory) — the Painting & Sculpture Museum and the Archaeology & Ethnography Museum. I actually consider the latter two separate museums since the collections are distinctly different.

    After checking out the marbling art exhibit, we wandered through the Archaeology Museum, which is on the ground and first floors of the main building. We’ll go back to re-visit the Ethnography Museum — on the top floor of the main building — another time.

    Our museum visit took us on a trip into antiquity as we browsed artifacts ranging from marble and bronze statues, to terracotta figurines and pottery, to decorative glass perfume bottles and gold jewelry, to medical instruments and symbols of death … the latter in the form of sarcophagi and pithos graves. And so much more.

    Whenever I re-visit a place — be it a museum or a town or a gallery — I like to compare the recent photos with the ones I took previously. Why? To see if I was drawn to the same artifacts/places/works of art again … or if something different caught my eye. I’ll have to wait to do my comparison of today’s photos as the ones from 2023 may well be on a hard drive at our house in Colorado. That said, I suspect there will be several duplicates!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2The last time I tried the "ebru" technique was in Beypazarı ... in 2011.
    From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.2From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.From Mine Tülek's "What Water Expresses" marbling exhibition at TSF — Alsancak, İzmir.

    İzmir: TSF … What Water Expresses

    June 3 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    TSF = Tekel Sanat Fabrikası (Tekel Arts Factory); formally … İzmir Kültür Sanat Fabrikası (İzmir Culture & Arts Factory)

    This was our destination today.

    The Tekel facility in Alsancak was once a cigarette factory that dated back to the late 19th century. In 2004, it ceased operation and the now-defunct buildings were re-purposed as a cultural and artistic center. Today, the various renovated buildings house several museums, libraries, event spaces, and cultural and social areas where one can attend seminars, workshops, and ateliers.

    Having explored the museums soon after TSF opened in 2023, our purpose for visiting today was to check out a temporary art exhibition. Yes … another one! What can I say? As hot as it’s been, we’re seeking out places that not only offer visual enjoyments, but air conditioning as well.

    I was expecting that the exhibition would be in one of the event spaces as they have been in the past. Turns out that it was installed in one of the halls of the İzmir Archaeology and Ethnography Museum.

    Temporary exhibitions in the event spaces have traditionally been free. The museum, on the other hand, charges admission. No worries in our case. Age has its privileges … no admission for Turkish citizens who are 65+. We showed our IDs at the ticket booth and received two free tickets to go inside.

    The exhibition we were interested in featured pieces created by Mine Tülek using the “ebru” technique … the Turkish art of paper marbling. AI describes the process as involving “… sprinkling and brushing color pigments onto a pan of thickened, oily water to create swirling patterns, which are then carefully transferred onto a sheet of paper.”

    The installation was small but worth taking the time to visit. I’ve tried my hand at this technique at “living museums” where cultural stories and methods are kept alive with demonstrations. It’s not as easy as one might think, so I appreciated what was on display … especially the more complex pieces. There were also short poems accompanying several of the pieces and QR codes that one could scan to listen to different pieces of music that fit the theme of the art.

    Since we were there anyway, after we perused the “ebru art,” we decided to go for a wander around the museum … coming up in the next footprint.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    At the "Fashion & Painting" exhibition @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.
    From a ballgown, to daytime dresses, to an evening dress, to a peignoir ... Arkas Sanat Alsancak."In Her Boudoir" (D. Enjolras) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye."Mrs. Dotohy" (J.A. Grimshaw) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Day dresses; the one one the right has a bustle @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye."The Long-Awaited Letter" (A. Toulmouche) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.1"Afternoon Tea on Lake Starnberg" (E. Cucuel) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Tuxedo & a man's summer outfit @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.17th century outfit of a French gentleman @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Napoleonic era gown ... and portrait of Napoleon (C.A. Steuben) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir.Roman-style gala dress; Reform-style dress; house dress @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Late 19th century house dress @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Mid-19th century Turkish-style costume @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.At the "Fashion & Painting" exhibition @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Ballgown with bustle ... note the lace-up in lieu of buttons @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir.Evening gown @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Mid 19th century evening dress @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Crinoline dress (L) and Napoleonic era ballgown @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Stylized dress w/Calais lace shawl (D. Enjolras) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye."Summer Evening by the Lake" (D. Enjolras) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.Late 19th & early 20th century outfits @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye."Morning at the Artist's House in Sofievej" (P.G. Fischer) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye."Contemplation" (E. von Blaas) ... love the detail on the shawl @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir.Afternoon dress (possibly for making calls) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye."The Photographer's Visit" (É.F.W. Richter) @ Arkas Sanat Alsancak — İzmir, Türkiye.

    İzmir: Arkas … Fashion & Painting

    June 2 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Arkas is the name of a Levantine family … deeply rooted in İzmir. They migrated here from France some 300-400 years ago, engaging in trade for over three centuries. In addition to being a prominent name in commercial endeavors, they have established several art museums in İzmir to share their expansive collection of art in every form.

    Arkas Sanat Alsancak — sanat being the Turkish word for art — is the closest of these museums to us. It is housed in a neoclassical mansion on Kordon (the Alsancak waterfront). Built in 1906, the building served as the French diplomatic mission until 2009, when it was transferred to Arkas Holding for restoration and renovation.

    Between visits with mom, Mui and I went to the museum today to check out the current exhibit. The older building is not wheelchair friendly, so we were unable to take mom with us. I sat with her later and showed her the photographs I took … a second-hand exhibition, if you will.

    There is a nominal admission for the museum ₺250 ($5.45 at today’s exchange rate) … half that for 65+. But today being Tuesday, it was “people’s day” … meaning that the fee was waived. Score!

    The “Fashion and Painting” exhibition combines selected works from the Arkas collection with pieces from the costume collection of La Dame d'Atours. It brings together 19th-20th century Postimpressionist and Modernist paintings with the haute couture fashions of the same period … mostly women’s attire, though there were some men’s costumes as well.

    The exhibition serves to underscore “… the social life, clothing culture and aesthetic understanding of the period through the relationship between painting and costume.”

    Over the years, we have visited most, if not all, of the temporary exhibitions installed at Arkas Sanat Alsancak. None disappointed. Today was no exception.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Our lunch outing includes a visit to an art gallery ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.
    "Journey" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Hand" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Amazon Guard" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.1"Head to Head" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Mother Nature" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Deer Jumping Across the Precipice" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.1"The Kiss" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.From Cem Sağbil's "Queens" series ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Two Amazons" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Amazon Idols" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Hemera & the Man Holding the Moon" by Cem Sağbil ... were installed in Paris."Apollo" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Center of the Earth" from Cem Sağbil's Origins series ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Center of the Earth" (Cem Sağbil's Origins series); the flower marks where life first appears."Sisyphus" (from ancient mythology) by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Sisyphus & the Broken Moon" (from ancient mythology) by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir"Action/Reaction" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."The Man Who Broke the Circle" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Freedom" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."The Three Graces" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Two People @ the Tower of Babel" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Triple Relief" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Mother Goddess (Cybele)" by Cem Sağbil ... Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.

    İzmir: 3rd Time’s the Charm

    June 1 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Bidding Aylin & Murat “see you later” as they set off on their trip, Mui & I headed out with mom for some fresh air and lunch.

    Once everyone’s tummy was sated, we followed a roundabout way back, stopping by the Mehmet Tüzüm Kızılcan Art Gallery (former History and Art Museum) at Kültürpark to see if it was open now that the bayram (Eid al-Adha) is over.

    After our previous two unsuccessful attempts to check out Cem Sağbil’s “The World Still Blooms” exhibition, today our persistence paid off.

    We were especially happy to find the doors open since the gallery is one to which we can take mom … wheelchair-friendly with plenty of space around the pieces on display and a ramp that provides easy access to the second floor.

    The exhibition consisted mostly of sculptures … bronze the primary medium, with some pieces utilizing timber from olive trees. Some paintings as well. The sculptor’s work is described as carrying “… traces of a long reflection on human existence in the world. …”

    A panel at the entrance to the gallery explained that the exhibition’s title is born of this reflection — “… For an artist who has been sculpting for four decades, the world is not merely a place of crisis and destruction. It is also a place where meaning can still be produced, where thought can still take form, and where the world can still be imagined anew. … And for this reason, the world still blooms.”    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Breakfast at Francala ... with Aylin & Murat — Bostanlı, İzmir.
    2Pancakes for breakfast at Francala ... yummy — Bostanlı, İzmir.Photo op along the Bostanlı-Karşıyaka waterfront — İzmir.1Cockspur Coral Tree ... on the Bostanlı-Karşıyaka waterfront — İzmir.Near the civil wedding hall ... along the Bostanlı-Karşıyaka waterfront — İzmir.2"Frog & Man" by Yücel Tonguç Sercan ... along the Bostanlı-Karşıyaka waterfront — İzmir.Lucky to squeeze in a visit with Esin — Alsancak, İzmir.

    İzmir: Socializing

    May 30 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We joined Aylin and Murat for breakfast this morning … at Francala … in Bostanlı, across the bay from where we are in Alsancak.

    The place is a new addition to the numerous eateries around İzmir that specialize in breakfast. This one is a bread bakery as well. The bread basket brought to your table includes a number of different breads, so you get to sample what is on offer that day and purchase a loaf or two if you wish.

    The breakfast menu is quite extensive. Mui opted for the hot plate … scrambled eggs and sautéed oyster mushrooms & potatoes. Murat opted for the cold plate … sliced avocado, a spicy tomato-paste dip, olives, and cheese. Aylin and I opted for the pancakes made with Francala’s special batter … more like hotcakes. Turkish tea all around.

    After our delicious meal, instead of riding back with Aylin and Murat, we asked them to drop us off at the Bostanlı waterfront promenade and walked to the Karşıyaka ferry pier … a 30-45 minute stroll on a beautiful, blue-sky day with a light breeze that kept the heat at bay.

    A pleasant ferry crossing and a quick tram ride returned us to Alsancak. Mui went to the apartment for a nap; I went to mom’s to spend a couple of hours with her.

    Then it was time for more socializing … this time with Mui’s cousin, Esin. We had a short but sweet reunion at the Lozan Patisserie, catching up on family news. She’s leaving for Seattle on Monday, so we’re especially glad we were able to squeeze in a quick visit.

    By the way, we walked over to see if the art gallery was open today. Nope, still closed. It will be interesting to see if they extend the date of the temporary exhibition since the sculptor has essentially been shorted by at least four days.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Jacaranda tree in bloom at Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.
    A selfie-op with Cem Sağbil's "Charon's Boat" at Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir."Charon's Boat" & the parachute tower, a popular attraction from which fair visitors parachute down.1"Action/Reaction" (sculptor not named; but I found references that it is Cem Sağbil's work)."Action/Reaction" and the parachute tower at Kültürpark — Alsancak, İzmir.

    İzmir: Moyra … A Longtime Friend

    May 29 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Family commitments have kept Mui and me busy since our arrival in İzmir late on the 25th. We’re slowly settling into a routine and starting to carve out time to spend with friends as well as family.

    Moyra and I are friends from junior high … at the American Collegiate Institute in İzmir. She moved to the USA before we did, and now lives in Nashville, Tennessee … when she isn’t traveling.

    In recent years, our trips to Türkiye have coincided on the calendar and we’ve met up for lunch at a favorite restaurant in İzmir. Laughter, reminiscing, chit-chat … these are all hallmarks of our get togethers.

    This time we met up at the entrance to Kültürpark, crossed the street to the Lozan Patisserie, and enjoyed Turkish tea and goodies … with a side order of the ‘hallmarks’ I mentioned above. We were having such a good time that we didn’t remember to take any photos until there was nothing but crumbs left on the table.

    Tummies sated, we decided to check out a temporary art exhibit at the former History and Art Museum in Kültürpark … the large green space in the city center that is home to the annual İzmir International Fair.

    Alas, today is the third-day of Eid al-Adha, an Islamic holiday celebrated around the world. The building was locked up tight. The exhibit is scheduled to close tomorrow, but I am hoping that it might be extended. It’s not far from the apartment, so we’ll meander over sometime over the next few days.

    Anyway, we found some nice backdrops for this year’s ’new memories’ photos and selfies … and clicked the shutter to also take photos of the two pieces of art in front of the museum.

    Then, seeing Moyra off at the tram station, we returned to the apartment. Mui is now busy cooking up a storm … we’re going to cater dinner at mom’s tonight.

    —————————————

    By the way, for those not familiar with Eid-al-Adha, it is commonly referred to as the “Festival of Sacrifice” … Kurban Bayramı in Turkish. It is considered to be one of the two most important holidays in the Islamic calendar… honoring Prophet Abraham's (İbrahim’s) devotion to God and his willingness to sacrifice his son as an act of obedience. As we all know, just as Abraham was about to carry out the command, God intervened and provided a ram to be sacrificed instead.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    TK1324 on its final approach to IST; airport in the photo is the old one; Sea of Marmara (right).

    Welcome to Alsancak, İzmir … Türkiye

    May 26 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Two uneventful flights.

    Two meal services … a hot meal on the 2½-hour BLQ-IST flight ; a cheese sandwich on the 45-minute IST-ADB flight.

    Two landings … slightly delayed at IST; 25 minutes ahead of schedule at ADB.

    One immigration control/passport check … at IST.

    One baggage claim and customs checkpoint … at ADB.

    One 30-minute train ride on IZBAN — İzmir’s commuter rail system … from the airport station in Gaziemir to the train station in Alsancak … free for us 65+ passengers (got to have a Turkish ID).

    One 10-minute taxi ride from the train station to Mui’s sister’s apartment … our base of operations while in İzmir.

    Unpacking and settling in can wait until tomorrow!

    Oh wait … it’s already tomorrow … midnight struck a few minutes ago!

    Oh well, the work can wait until after we have breakfast with Aylin and Murat, and drop in for a quick visit with mom.

    But first … we need to get some shuteye!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Nice view of the landmarks of Centro Storico — Bologna, Italy.

    Aboard TK 1324 to IST

    May 25 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    The Airbus A321-200 that was scheduled to take us on the first of today’s two flights landed at BLQ at 2:10p.

    Since the aircraft was not connected to a jetway, there would be no by-row boarding today. No sooner than the aircraft was on the ground, passengers queued up for boarding … still at least ½-hour away. Go figure. Anyway, we waited until the line dwindled down and eventually made our way down to the tarmac and across to the aircraft. With seats in row 20, we walked to the mobile stairs at the rear for an easy embarkation.

    Our aisle-aisle seats split up a family of four on either side of us. Since the aircraft had empty seats, the flight attendant moved the mother and two daughters to another row … which allowed me to hop into the window seat in Mui’s row … leaving the middle seat empty for a bit of extra elbow room. The legroom … well it is what it is in the economy cabin … OK for our short flight.

    The aircraft pushed back at 3:04p and was wheels up 20 minutes later. We were flying in blue skies and sunshine soon enough.

    Bonus for switching my seat … a distant but clear view of the Due Torri, the Cathedral, the Basilica of San Petronio, and other landmarks of Bologna’s Centro Storico.

    Ciao per ora Bologna!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Waiting for our meal at VyTA Bistrot @ BLQ.
    Looks like we have a 15-minute delay ... no worries.

    Delay?

    May 25 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 90 °F

    Not sure if there is a delay or not!

    TripIt sent me an email advising of a 15-minute delay to our departure. The THY app still shows our flight leaving at 2:55p. However, the incoming flight, which was due in at 1:55p, has not put in an appearance yet. We gave ourselves plenty of time for our connection from IST to ADB … so no worries at this time.

    In the meantime, we arrived at the airport around 12:15p. Checked our bags and headed to security and immigration to complete the formalities. The automated immigration kiosks worked like a charm and we got the wave to continue into the secure area without having to see an agent in person.

    With time to kill, we made ourselves comfortable at VyTA Bistrot and enjoyed a simple but tasty meal. Now, we are waiting at the gate for the inbound THY flight to land.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Off we go — Bologna, Italy.

    And We Are Off

    May 25 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    A 2:55p flight departure meant an easy morning at home.

    Had a relaxed breakfast.

    Washed the bed linens and towels … I’m sure they’ll dry by the time we return mid-June 🤣.

    Mui took the recycling and trash to the bins at the head of our street … and even had time to walk over to Il Duca for his morning espresso.

    Around 11:35a, ready ahead of our planned noon departure, we locked the door to officially begin our brief sojourn to Türkiye.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Boarding pass art 😄

    Leaving On a Jet Plane

    May 24 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    Bags packed … ✅

    Online check-in completed … ✅

    Boarding passes added to our Apple Wallets … ✅

    Perishables consumed … except for what we need to sustain us until we lock the door behind us … ✅

    We are ready to take off tomorrow … for a couple of weeks.

    Destination: İzmir, Türkiye … to oversee mom’s care while my sister and brother-in-law take a short sightseeing and beach break.

    Watch this space for anything fun and newsworthy!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Brother and sister meet up in Bologna, Italy.

    Dinner with Işıl

    May 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    For those who don’t know, Işıl is Mui’s sister.

    She flew into Bologna this afternoon … with three friends. They are here overnight … and then onward on a DIY week-long tour that will take in places like Sienna and Firenze.

    Mui picked her up from her hotel around 5:00p and we got together for drinks at a bar before continuing onto dinner at San Pietro … a trattoria/pizzeria not too far from her hotel.

    A brief but sweet reunion.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.
    Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.Cristina Pistoletto's exhibition ... "Remise en Jeu" — Galleria Cavour 1959, Bologna.

    Pistoletto: Remise en Jeu

    May 22 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Earlier this week, we went to see the work of Michelangelo Pistoletto … the father. Today, we popped into Galleria Cavour 1959 to see the daughter’s work.

    (Just see, mind you … the wearable art, I imagine, falls into the “if you have to ask, you can’t afford it” category since the pieces are sold privately through fine art galleries.)

    "Remise en jeu," is the title of Cristina Pistoletto’s solo exhibition of pieces from her “Fuori Moda Crista” series. In this instance, what is also a sports term in French, roughly translates as putting back into play … or breathing new life into something old, if you will.

    The genesis of the series dates back to 2014 … when Cristina transformed an old black coat by applying to its back a needlework piece depicting a sailing ship. Today, that collection has 100 first edition pieces, each numbered and registered as unique.

    The vintage coats, jackets, dusters, and cardigans are from her own collection. The hand-made needlework pieces were created by grandmothers and aunts. What once hung on walls are now displayed on garments … roses, poppies, landscapes, seascapes, reproductions of the art of Raphael and Leonardo. She also used salvaged objects such as small dolls, decorative buttons, fairytale characters, doilies, and more.

    A sign on the wall describes every piece as “… an archive that carries traces of time, work, and affection. … Father and daughter, two distinct paths that speak to each other and both question the relationship between art, memory, and the present.”

    As someone who has done quite a bit of embroidery, I really appreciated the work at this exhibition. I was never a needlework person, however. That was mom’s forte. My thing was counted cross-stitch … from scratch, and smaller the squares the better … 18 or 22 squares to an inch being my preferred format. My work hangs on the walls of our home in Colorado … where I can see and enjoy them when we are there.

    ———————————————-

    A couple of links to blog posts I did for some of my cross-stitch projects:

    English Garden: https://2totravelphaeton.blogspot.com/2012/09/s…

    Seaside Lovers: https://2totravelphaeton.blogspot.com/2011/01/x…

    Big Cats: https://2totravelphaeton.blogspot.com/2013/12/x…    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Loggia through the wrought-iron gate ... Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.
    Detail from the wrought-iron gate ... Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.The Present ... Self-Portrait with Shirt ... w/reflections on varnished black background.Loggia and some of Pistoletto's art ... Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.2Dining ... from the “Minus Objects” series ... Pistoletto @ Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.Square of Infinity & Islamic Star ... Pistoletto @ Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.Trinamic Mirror ... the dynamics of the number three ... Pistoletto @ Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna.1Bologna Rebirth 2021 ... the symbol of the 3rd paradise is a line drawing 3 consecutive circles.Vignola's helicoidal staircase @ Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.2Vignola's helicoidal staircase @ Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.Vignola's helicoidal staircase @ Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.Pistoletto @ Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.Pistoletto's "Love Difference Table" ... in the Papal Audience Room @ Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna.Pistoletto's "Love Difference Table" ... in the Papal Audience Room @ Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna.Mediterranean countries each were asked to contribute a chair to the table @ Palazzo Boncompagni.Ceiling reflection ... and Italy's "boot" and Sicily & Greece's Peloponnese peninsula.David puts on the armor of King Saul as he prepares to fight Goliath — Papal Audience Room.The beheading of the giant Goliath by David ... Papal Audience Room @ Palazzo Boncompagni.Monumental fireplace; fresco of David being anointed king by Samuel — Papal Audience Room.Reflection on the Pistoletto Love Difference Table ... Papal Audience Room @ Palazzo Boncompagni.1Venus of Rags: concrete cast of the statue; rags Pistoletto used to shine mirror art.Conceptual "Metawork-United Portraits" ... yellow portraits combined to form the blue portraits.Pistoletto's self-portrait on mirror; and AI generated reading of the book in his hand.1My interactive "Mirror of Eternity" mosaic portrait ... Pistoletto exhibit @ Palazzo Boncompagni.Mui's interactive "Mirror of Eternity" mosaic portrait ... Pistoletto exhibit @ Palazzo Boncompagni.

    Michelangelo @ Palazzo Boncompagni

    May 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Sorry … that’s not Michelangelo di Lodovico Buonarrati Simoni … of the Sistine Chapel fame! Rather, it is Michelangelo Pistoletto … of the Love Difference fame.

    After our morning outing … and a bit of a rest, this afternoon we went to Palazzo Boncompagni, which was the home of Pope Gregorio XIII … from his birth until he was installed on the papal throne in 1572. Today, owned by the Benelli family since the 19th century, the palace serves as a host for contemporary art exhibitions and cultural events, while at the same time the family continues to restore parts of the building.

    The exhibition we saw at the palace today is a retrospective entitled “Michelangelo Pistoletto. From Cittadellarte to Statodellarte” … or From the City of Art to the State of Art.

    The City of Art referenced here is a civic laboratory, if you will, founded by Pistoletto in his birthplace of Biella … in the Italian Alps. The idea behind his concept is to show how creativity connects with all sectors of society.

    The tour is guided … which helps to explain the pieces that are a result of over 60 years of research into the relationship between art, society, and politics. The tours are in Italian only. So, we used the “live translation” feature of our AirPods Pro (Gen 3) … which worked out OK once we acclimated to the inherent delay. Since he speaks and understands Italian, Mui definitely got more out of the tour. I managed to get the gist of things and supplemented it with some additional research once we got home.

    The highlight of the exhibition is “Tavolo Love Difference” (Love Difference Table). An interesting work of art that is temporarily installed in the equally interesting setting of the Sala del Papa (the Pope’s Audience Hall). It consists of an oversized mirrored table shaped like the Mediterranean. The chairs around it are from the countries that border the Med.

    The piece serves as the symbol of the Love Difference movement … an “Artistic Movement for an InterMediterranean Policy, founded by Pistoletto in 2002 and presented at the Venice Biennale in 2003, when the artist received the Golden Lion for Lifetime Achievement.”

    Our tour concluded with “Mirror of Eternity” … an interactive installation … explained as follows: “… bridges physical and virtual realities by inviting visitors to upload their own portraits, which are then fused by artificial intelligence with those of other participants. The result is a continuously evolving display of entirely new, virtual faces that echo the generative logic of nature. This digital artwork—designed in collaboration with DMINTI—serves as an exploration of digital immortality and collective memory, allowing an individual's legacy to persist and spawn new artistic life long after they are gone.”

    We had fun participating in the installation … the result (with magnification of a small section that I created) is included in the photos attached to this footprint.

    Pistoletto’s work has piqued our curiosity … so, if we find ourselves in the area, we just might visit the City of Art in Biella.

    ———————————————

    Card Cultura Update: With today’s €3 discount, I am now €7 ahead of the game and Mui is €4 ahead. What that means is that for €25 each, I have visited €32 worth of sites; Mui €29 worth of sites.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Figures of Wolfango in Salaborsa” exhibition at Salaborsa — Bologna, Italy.
    In Wolfango's Words ... translated from the info panel at the Salaborsa exhibition — Bologna, Italy.Figures of Wolfango in Salaborsa” exhibition at Salaborsa — Bologna, Italy.A book that he loved ... Wolfango's mother would read it to him ... Salaborsa — Bologna, Italy.From Alice in Wonderland, to Flash Gordon, to Quadratino and Jorinda & Joringel.From Nautilus, to the Yellow Sub, to Tom Sawyer, to the Little Prince ... and more.From the 7 Dwarfs, to Puss 'n Boots, to "My Name is Adolf from Pef, and War of the Bells.One of the original sketches by Wolfango ... Salaborsa — Bologna, Italy.Play Time! Leave a comment with the fairytales & myths you recognize, & I'll confirm. No cheating!A very different work ... from a book at the library ... "The Farmer's Hand."

    Figures of Wolfango in Salaborsa

    May 19 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    “Drawing is breathing, painting is living.”
    ~ Wolfango Peretti Poggi ~

    We had not heard of Wolfango until we saw some of his illustrations at a temporary exhibit at the Archiginnasio last month … featuring works dedicated to Dante and others.

    As it turns out, he was “… a celebrated international artist and painter who lived and worked in Bologna. His multifaceted work includes paintings, etchings, and drawings … as well as terracotta figures he made for his children.

    The city is showcasing Wolfango in celebration of the centenary of his birth. The "Wolfango 100 - 100 Wolfango" is designed to highlight his work, and honor him through concerts, readings, documentary screenings, a photographic exhibit of the man himself … just to name a few of the events. Some of the events are already past … others are scheduled for later this year.

    Today, as we were passing by Biblioteca Salaborsa, Bologna’s main multimedia public library inside the historic Palazzo d'Accursio, I remembered that some of his work is on display in the Piazza Coperta (covered square).

    The info panel’s description of the “Figures of Wolfango in Salaborsa” temporary exhibition was a instructive as to what we would be seeing, so I am quoting it here rather than paraphrasing it …

    “… you can admire five original drawings, large scenes crowded with characters from children's literature, which were later reproduced on the walls of the Puppet Room of the Salaborsa Ragazzi Library. The exhibition display cases also house sketches, preparatory drawings, and reference books. On the panels, in addition to the words of Antonio Faeti and Wolfango himself, there are spectacular enlargements that recall the Puppet Room and invite children and families to play a game of recognition. For the library, Wolfango has created a world of quotes that pay homage to children's literature and illustration, from Rodari to Calvino, from Luzzati to Disney, from Alice to the Little Prince... In each scene, he has amused himself with a self-quotation: Tom Thumb, Pinocchio, Sandokan... it's up to us to have fun recognizing them!”

    And fun we had.

    I was especially happy to see the reproduced panels as there was too much reflection on the glass display cases … making it not only difficult to see some of the details, but also to get any decent photos.

    A short and sweet detour before it was time for our afternoon plans …    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.
    Palazzo Boncompagni — Bologna, Italy.Palazzo Rosselli del Turco — Bologna, Italy.Palazzo Zani — Bologna, Italy.Palazzo Zani — Bologna, Italy.Palazzo Zani — Bologna, Italy.Palazzo Zani — Bologna, Italy.The aedicula ... functions as the air intake for the ice house ... Palazzo Zani — Bologna, Italy.The ice house at Palazzo Zani — Bologna, Italy.At the Zucchelli Foundation Garden — Bologna, Italy.At the Zucchelli Foundation Garden — Bologna, Italy.At the Zucchelli Foundation — Bologna, Italy.Palazzo Sàssoli — Bologna, Italy.1At the Palazzo Sàssoli — Bologna, Italy.Taking a load off at Palazzo Sàssoli — Bologna, Italy.At the Palazzo Sàssoli — Bologna, Italy.At the Palazzo Sàssoli — Bologna, Italy.Steeple of the Basilica di Santa Maria dei Servi from Palazzo Sàssoli — Bologna, Italy.Giardino dell'Acanto — Bologna, Italy.Bear's Foot Plant (Acanthus mollis) @ Giardino dell'Acanto — Bologna, Italy.At Giardino dell'Acanto — Bologna, Italy.Casa Favia — Bologna, Italy.Casa Favia — Bologna, Italy.1Moth Mullein (Verbascum blattaria) @ Casa Favia — Bologna, Italy.An excellent sentiment — Bologna, Italy.

    Heart of the Diverdeinverde

    May 17 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    The reason we went out in the first place this morning was to check out the ‘secret garden’ at Palazzo Boncompagni … usually closed to the public. Turns out that the garden was small and there wasn’t much to see.

    Done with our outing way earlier than expected, we decided to head to the eXtraBO info point to ask about the Diverdeinverde event that was taking place over the weekend.

    Diverdeinverde = Di verde in verde = from green to green!

    Unlike Bologna Welcome, the main tourist office, eXtraBO focuses on the outdoors — “… trekking, cycling, slow-tourism adventures in the surrounding Apennines, plains, and hills.” As such, a DIY tour of some of the historic private gardens, cloisters, and urban green spaces that open for the Diverdeinverde special event, falls under their jurisdiction.

    Using our Card Cultura to get an €3 discount per person, we purchased our tickets for €12 each — sent to us by email — and set about studying the map we were given to determine our route. Some of the 40 gardens participating in this 12th anniversary event were Saturday-only sites; others were outside the Centro Storico; and still others were ones we had already been to. In the end, we cobbled together 8 green spaces for a personalized route.

    At the risk of offending the Bolognese people, I will say that several of the gardens were less-than impressive. Yes, we got to see these normally hidden green spaces, but they were in need of some TLC [tender loving care]. There was also very little in the way of the colorful flowers that one expects to find in a garden … except in a few places. The places outside the city and in the hills may have been better, but I can’t speak to them.

    That said, we did get to see the city from a different perspective, and spent more time wandering around the city than we originally intended … over 11,000 steps in three hours or so. There was the occasional art work or fresco to enjoy as well. My ‘photographic eye’ found something at each garden. In most cases, the garden was peacefully quiet … always a bonus.

    Besides, it was such a lovely day to be out and about after so many days with overcast and rain this week. So, not a bad outing in general.

    ———————————————

    Card Cultura Update: With today’s €3 discount, I am now €4 ahead of the game and Mui has €1 to go . The cards have definitely been worth the purchase, and we haven’t even visited all the free sites yet!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    2Eritrean Orthodox Tewahdo Church procession @ Piazza de' Celestini — Bologna, Italy.
    Eritrean Orthodox Tewahdo Church procession @ Piazza de' Celestini — Bologna, Italy.2Eritrean Orthodox Tewahdo Church procession @ Piazza de' Celestini — Bologna, Italy.2Bride & Groom and Ring Bearer ... with a cute Fiat Cinquecento ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.A cute Fiat Cinquecento dressed up for the wedding ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.4On her way to the wedding perhaps — Bologna, Italy.Window on a medieval-tower-turned-B&B — Bologna, Italy.On their way to the Cathedral ... on Via Rizzoli — Bologna, Italy.Via Remorsella on a quiet Sunday morning — Bologna, Italy.Window on Via Remorsella — Bologna, Italy.Shrine at the end of a portico — Bologna, Italy.Quote re: taking 5 minutes to think about all the lies we tell ourselves (attributed to Einstein).Street art — Bologna, Italy.Street art — Bologna, Italy.2Street art — Bologna, Italy.1Street art — Bologna, Italy.

    You Never Know … Street Photography

    May 17 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    You never know what you’re going to see when you venture out in Bologna on a Sunday Morning.

    This morning, when I went to meet Mui at Piazza de’ Celestini, we were surprised to see a procession by the Eritrean Orthodox Tewahdo Church come through … around the corner from our apartment. I tried to find out more information about it, but nothing came of my research. Perhaps it was a prelude to further celebrations for their independence from Ethiopia … the anniversary is next week.

    Then it was a wedding party in front of Palazzo d’Accursio … with a cute Fiat Cinquecento as the bridal vehicle; and a few other things that caught my eye … including an adorable little girl all dressed up in her finery … the color of her dress made me think she was part of the wedding party we had witnessed.

    And, of course, there was some fun and interesting street art.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.
    STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.Methinks we have a winner! ... STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna.STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.3STREEAT®️ Food Truck Festival ... Garden of Villa Cassarini — Bologna, Italy.Italians are serious about recycling ... bins like these were all around the park.1Wall of jasmine on the way home ... it smelled heavenly! — Bologna, Italy.

    STREEAT®️ Comes to Bologna

    May 16 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    STREEAT®️ is a traveling food truck festival that was launched in Italy in 2014. The event travels around Italy, setting up in public parks to feature ‘street eats’ and offer people a unique street foods experience. The idea is to promote and “… rediscover the flavors of Italian tradition, but also recipes from other countries.”

    This weekend the trucks set up in the garden of Villa Cassarini … near Porta Saragozza in Bologna.

    It rained Friday … too wet to dine outdoors. Other plans were in the works for Sunday … so going then was out. Besides, that’s when the Madonna would be processing back to the Sanctuary of San Luca after her week-long stay in Bologna … the area promised to be very crowded.

    That left us with one option … to go today. We went early … there was rain in the forecast later in the day. And, of course, you know we — particularly, me — shy away from crowds. We also avoided possible long lines by going earlier … which is always a plus.

    Arriving at the garden/park, we wandered around to see what foods were on offer by the 15 trucks participating in the event, and also take advantage of the opportunity for people-free photos … a quirk of mine.

    We vetoed the American BBQ and smashburger trucks, and then made a second round of the trucks to further winnow down the options … until we settled on Sicilian delicacies. Of course, our decision had NOTHING to do whatsoever with the fact that waiting-to-be-filled fresh cannoli shells were stacked in the display case of that food. truck!!! (If you know Mui at all, you know that I am being a bit sarcastic here 😜.)

    Good food …. nice weather, though we had to seek out what little sun there was as it was a bit chilly. We even had music from a DJ … though it was French and American … go figure!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    At the Maserati Umberto Panini Collection — Modena, Italy.
    Tipo 26 ... first vehicle to bear Maserati's trident symbol; designed in the Bologna workshop.Maserati Alfieri ... 2015 Concept Car.The 100-year-old Tipo 26 ... between two much newer models.Maserati Umberto Panini Collection — Modena, Italy.Maserati A6GCS ... Berlinetta body; first presented @ the 1954 Torino Motor Show.Eldorado ... 1st racing car in Europe sponsored by a company not linked to the world of motors.The MC20 uses the Nettuno engine ... built entirely at Maserati's Modena hub after a 20-year hiatus.Maserati 3500 GT Touring Car from 1960.Maserati's Chubasco ... 1990 prototype.Maserati's Spider Zagato (1931).Maserati motorbikes @ the Maserati Umberto Panini Collection — Modena, Italy.Nettuno and Gran Turismo power trains.Motor Valley info panel @ the Maserati Umberto Panini Collection — Modena, Italy.Happy day-tripper on the bus back to the Modena train station.

    Modena: Maserati … Panini Collection

    May 15 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    The USA has a “Motor City.”

    Italy has a “Motor Valley” … of which Modena is considered to be the capital.

    Today, hopping on a train — and then a bus … followed by a 1.2-mile walk — Mui went to Modena to check out the Maserati Umberto Panini Collection.

    It was a good dreary-day-outing for him … all the more so after a computer mishap yesterday ‘ate’ the Weddell Sea video project he was working on. The trip certainly cheered him up.

    Umberto Panini — a Modanese entrepreneur with “… a deep mechanical passion …” — founded the museum that first opened in the early 1990s. Since 2025, it’s been welcoming car enthusiasts at its current location.

    Since I wasn’t on this outing with Mui, and he is not one to put pencil to paper, so to speak, the next bit is from the museum’s website …

    “The Collection’s heart features an extraordinary selection of Maserati automobiles, tracing the brand’s evolution from its origins to the present day. Umberto Panini saved these in 1996, in their original core of 14 vehicles from the Official Museum. Among them are several iconic and rare models that testify to Modena’s engineering excellence and Italian design.

    The Maserati Umberto Panini Collection is where the passion for motors is passed down through generations, safeguarding the memory of an era and celebrating Italian ingenuity—a true rebirth for the Trident’s history in Modena.”

    The exhibition, which includes single-seaters from the pre-war era to the 2014 Alfieri prototype, spans over 100 years of Maserati production … or as the promotional card Mui was given says, “100 years of passion.”

    As it was raining when he was ready to leave, Mui begged a ride to the bus stop from two British women who’d been wandering the museum as well. Thus he managed to complete a successful outing without getting wet!

    (P.S. Mui didn’t know it at the time, but while he was gone, I went down a research ‘rabbit hole’ and managed to resurrect his Weddell Sea project after trying several recommendations I found on the web. So, he came back to that good news to further improve his day.)    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Collage of media images of the procession into Bologna on the 9th.
    Poster on the wall of the Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter — Bologna, Italy.Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter — Bologna, Italy.The Madonna of San Luca in pride of place ... Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter — Bologna, Italy.Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter — Bologna, Italy.The Madonna of San Luca @ the Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter — Bologna, Italy.Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter — Bologna, Italy.Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter — Bologna, Italy.Marble panel of the ancona for the visually challenged ... Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter.One of the men collecting offerings from the faithful ... Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter.Canopies of the litter used in the procession ... Metropolitan Cathedral of St. Peter — Bologna.

    La Madonna di San Luca in Città

    May 13 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    The much-revered Madonna of San Luca has come to Bologna for a brief stay.

    (The footprint I wrote of our visit to the Santuario di San Luca last fall explains about the ancona and why the shrine is so important in the Christian world. You may wish to read it first … https://findpenguins.com/8pccjefaitoru/footprin….)

    The ancona of the Madonna and child was processed in on the 9th — that is, she was brought down from the Santuario di San Luca with all the pomp and circumstance of a procession and placed in the Bologna Cathedral … formally the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Peter. She will be in the city until the 17th … when another procession will return her to the sanctuary, which sits at the top of Guardia Hill.

    Since we went up to the sanctuary during our Bologna recon trip last fall, we thought it would be fun to take a quick peek at the icon of the Madonna while she’s visiting the city. We purposefully went mid-morning thinking that mass would be over. Turns out that wasn’t the case. In fact, there is a special mass schedule for the duration of the Madonna’s stay at the cathedral.

    We were set to leave and try again later when we noticed that in addition to worshippers sitting in the pews for mass, tourist and school groups were coming in and out, wandering around, taking photos and selfies. No one seemed to mind … certainly none of the men dressed in formal black tailcoats — members of a historic lay confraternity who have various duties, including collecting offerings from the faithful — were stopping people from taking photos. So, we found a discreet spot from which to take a couple of photos of the proceedings, listened to the choir singing a hymn, and then quietly left.

    I’m not sure if we will try to see the procession returning the Madonna to San Luca. I’m not sure I could deal with the mass of humanity that would be accompanying it. We’ll see.

    ——————————————————

    REMINISCING: We were in Cusco, Peru in 2009 … right around Easter … when the Señor de Los Temblores (Christ of the Earthquakes) processes around the city. With the promise of a perch that would keep us above and away from the immense crowds that flooded into the square for the procession, I agreed to check it out.

    I mention this because the photos of the Madonna’s procession reminded me of that experience … which was admittedly quite interesting. I’m including a link here if you would like to see the images included in the blog … worth taking a peek, if I do say so myself, just to see a ‘youthful’ Mui and Erin 🤣 … https://2totravelperu.blogspot.com/2009/04/day-….    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On the TTPER train from Casalecchio Palasport to Bologna.
    1Making the rounds ... on the TTPER train from Casalecchio Palasport to Bologna.

    On the Train: Mui’s Colorful Seatmate

    May 11 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Mui hopped on the TTPER train this morning to do a bit of shopping … IKEA and Carrefour.

    On the way back, he had a colorful seat-mate.

    The young man gave him permission for a photo, explaining that the two of them always travel like this. Then he let his companion make the rounds, visiting the other passengers in the train car.

    This falls into the ‘you never know what you’re going to see’ category.    Read more

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