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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Scenery from the drive to Gruyères via the Jaunpass — Switzerland.
    Scenery from the drive to Gruyères via the Jaunpass — Switzerland.Scenery from the drive to Gruyères via the Jaunpass — Switzerland.Saint Pierre Chapel in Val-de-Charmey, Switzerland.Cute fountain in Broc, Switzerland.Established in Broc in 1898, Cailler has been owned by Nestlé since 1929 — Broc, Switzerland.Who invented milk chocolate? — Cailler Factory in Broc, Switzerland.2One of Mui's photos from the Cailler tasting room in 2015.

    OtR: Spiez to Gruyères

    6 Ogos, Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Leaving Spiez behind, we decided to drive to Gruyères via Jaunpass … a slower but scenic alternative to the highway.

    We ascended uphill through green meadows and pastures, small towns with typical Swiss chalets, and alpine scenery in every direction. Eventually, we arrived at the pass, which is at 4,950 feet above sea level, and then it was downhill through more alpine scenery.

    When Mui went to Switzerland in 2015 with his mother and sister, they did the Chocolate Train experience. That train took them to the Cailler chocolate factory in Broc for a tour and tasting. Since it was on our way to Gruyères, he suggested we stop in Broc on the off chance that we could take a tour. “I want you to experience it,” he said. I think he just wanted to get back into the tasting room for the all-you-can-eat chocolates 🍫 😄.

    As it turns out, there was a three hour wait for a tour. Nope … not going to do that. We did sneak into the shop, but it was packed wall-to-wall with people. Nope not going to wade into a sea of humanity for a couple of bars of chocolate. We’ll get our chocolate fix somewhere else.

    Onward to Gruyères … time to check into our hotel and perhaps go for a wander before we call it a day.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Schloss Spiez ... from the garden we pop into on our way to the castle — Spiez, Switzerland.
    Garden @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Garden @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The Castle Church is at the far end of the courtyard — Spiez, Switzerland.Across the lawn ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.One of the many beautiful carved doors @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Stoves decorated with ceramic tiles were used for heating @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Stained glass panels @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Depiction of Spiez circled by Burgundian troops @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The kitchen @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.From the kitchen @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.A box bed ... sign of a certain level of prosperity ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The Gardrobe ... waste fell down a bricked shaft into a pit within the moat ... Schloss Spiez.Stained glass panels ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Beautiful wood paneling @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Banquet hall (added in 1614) ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Plaster detail from the banquet hall @ Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.View of Spiez from the keep of Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The marina and the town from the keep of Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The Castle Church and Lake Thun from the keep of Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Illustration and costume from a court dance ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.17th century illustration of the castle by A. Kauw ... Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.

    OtR: Schloss Spiez

    6 Ogos, Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Today was another day on the road. But we needed to kill some time before heading to our next destination.

    So, after checking out of the studio apartment in Leissigen, we drove the short 5.5 miles to Spiez … a town on the shore of Lake Thun.

    First on our agenda was a visit to Schloss Spiez … the iconic landmark of the town. Arriving a few minutes before the castle opened for the day, we not only scored a parking spot just outside the castle, but also got to enjoy the grounds and the castle before it started to get crowded.

    Schloss Spiez is perched amidst vineyards on a peninsula that juts out towards the lake. It was constructed in 933 on the orders of Rudolph II, the King of Burgundy. As it changed hands over the years, bits and pieces were added to the original castle … such as the main tower/keep, which dates back to the 13th century, and which reached its current height of 128 feet in 1600. The residential wings date back to the 13th and 14th centuries. The current appearance of the schloss — which resembles more a patrician residence rather than a castle — is from the period between the 15th to the 18th century.

    Once we purchased our admission, we toured the rooms at our own pace, eventually climbing to the top of the square tower from which we enjoyed expansive views of the town and the vineyards, and Lake Thun.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    The Castle Church from Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.
    The Castle Church from Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.The Castle Church — Spiez, Switzerland.Frescoes in the Castle Church — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez ... from the church yard — Spiez, Switzerland.Schloss Spiez ... from the church yard — Spiez, Switzerland.Le Roselier ... an inn built in 1743 is now a private residence — Spiez, Switzerland.Le Roselier ... murals painted by Victor Surbek in 1933-1934 — Spiez, Switzerland.Reconstruction of a 17th century herb garden — Spiez, Switzerland.Vineyards — Spiez, Switzerland.Lakefront promenade — Spiez, Switzerland.Eurasian Coots on Lake Thun — Spiez, Switzerland.Niesen is the iconic mountain known as the "Swiss Pyramid" — Spiez, Switzerland.The keep of Schloss Spiez — Spiez, Switzerland.Find the boat in this picture — Spiez, Switzerland.A closer look at the boat in the wall of the house — Spiez, Switzerland.The Castle Church — Spiez, Switzerland.Sun dial — Spiez, Switzerland.One of the boats that ply Lake Thun is bringing another load of visitors to Spiez, Switzerland.

    OtR: Stroll Around Spiez

    6 Ogos, Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Before leaving Schloss Spiez, we took advantage of the lovely day to sit at a table in the courtyard and have a quick snack.

    Tummies sated, we wandered across to the Castle Church for a quick peek. Constructed around 1000 CE, the Romanesque church sits on the site of an earlier stone church that had a free-standing tower. It served as the private chapel and burial site for the owners of the castle. The frescoes in the vaulted choir date from the 12th century and show Byzantine influences. Other paintings were added in the 16th century, but when the church was remodeled in the Baroque style a century later, they were covered with whitewash. The whitewash was removed when the church was restored to its Romanesque state after ownership passed to the Spiez Castle Foundation in 1929.

    From the church, we walked along a narrow path and used a staircase that took us down to the marina for a stroll along the lakefront. Being the iconic landmark of the town, the schloss was visible from every point around Spiez … as was Niesen, the mountain known as the “Swiss Pyramid.”    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Patio of the Niederhornblick ... a nice spot for our wine & cheese dinner — Leissigen, Switzerland.
    Niederhornblick ... a studio apartment for our overnight stay — Leissigen, Switzerland.The Dorint in Beatenberg is across the lake from our apartment in Leissigen, Switzerland.

    OtR: O/N @ Leissigen

    5 Ogos, Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Once we descended from Susten Pass, an uneventful drive brought us to a familiar road … along the south shore of Lake Brienz. From there, we continued onto the new-to-us south shore drive of Lake Thun.

    The studio apartment we booked in Leissigen overlooks the lake. It is named Niederhornblick [Niederhorn view]. Aside from the view, there’s really nothing special about the place. But it has all the amenities we need for a simple overnight stay.

    Funny enough, we are almost directly across the lake from the Dorint in Beatenberg … where we spent a week earlier in our trip. Of course, the Dorint is looking down at us from its perch high in the mountains!    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    And this is just the beginning of the road to Susten Pass!
    One of the 26 bridges/tunnels on our way up to Susten Pass.Looking back across the valley where we begin our Susten Pass drive.On the way up to Susten Pass.Idyllic alpine scenery on the way up to Susten Pass.Steinmandli Human Nature ... gives a whole new meaning to rock art.One of the many tunnel/bridges on the road up to Susten Pass.Wassen is the east end of the Susten Pass Road.Passing Wassen to begin the climb up to the Susten Pass.Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Meien is one of the villages on the Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Sustlibach (Sustli Brook) cascades from the high reaches down to and under a bridge on the road.Sustlibach cascade on Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.I have a feeling that this café is popular with bikers — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Taking a break for refreshments at Sustenbrüggli — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Mui has coffee; I have a Sanbitter, a non-alcoholic sparking aperitif @ Sustebrüggli.Even up here there is public transport — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.At Susten Pass ... over 7,400 feet — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Alpine cheese anyone? — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Steinsee is formed by meltwater from Stein Glacier — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Panorama of Steinsee, Stein Glacier, and the Alps — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Twin waterfalls streaming down the mountain — Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Susten Pass Road — Switzerland.Our Susten Pass drive is over ... near Meiringen, Switzerland.

    OtR: Driving Over Susten Pass

    5 Ogos, Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Once we entered Switzerland, we had a decision to make. Which Alpine pass to drive over to get to our overnight stop?

    Our options included the St Gotthard Pass … which we could access by deviating from the highway in Airolo. Or we could continue on the highway to Hospental and go through the Furka Pass (of 007 “Gold Finger” fame). Or go even further north to Wassen and drive over the Susten Pass.

    All afforded spectacular views … if the pictures we’d seen were to be believed. So, that wasn’t a decision factor. In the end, we chose Susten Pass … which would give us a more or less direct shot west to Thunersee … not counting all the hairpin curves zigzagging through the mountains.

    Our route took us from Wassen (at 3,050 feet) to the top of the pass at 7,415 feet above sea level and then down to Innertkirchen (at 2,051 feet). The road — 30-miles long and purpose built for tourism — was constructed between 1938-1945. In service since September 1946, the road consists of 26 bridges and tunnels … many tight, zigzag curves … and a steep gradient that at time reaches 10%.

    The views are simply spectacular … jagged mountains, waterfalls, glaciers, and cute villages (in the valleys). Luckily, there are several places where one can pull over to breathe in the crisp, clean Alpine air, enjoy the scenery, and take a break from the dizzying drive.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Goodbye Italy!
    Hello Switzerland!

    OtR: Verbania to Leissigen

    5 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Arrivederci Italia … Bun di Swizzer (or it could be Bonjour Suisse … or Grüezi Schweizer … or Buongiorno Svizzera).

    We have crossed the ‘non-existent’ border between Italy and Switzerland.

    It turned out to be a bit of a challenge. Since the border crossing is officially closed, the GPS kept trying to reroute us all the way back to Switzerland by retracing our route coming into Italy a week ago.

    No worries. We disregarded the GPS instructions and got where we wanted to go.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.
    Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Chapter room (old refectory) @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Frescoes from the old refectory @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.One of the loggias leading to the church @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Sun-bleached frescoes of the Dance of the Macabre @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Olive and grape press @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Looking down the nave toward the main altar @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Ceiling above the main altar @Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.The Votive Chapel dedicated to Santa Caterina @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.The Votive Chapel dedicated to Santa Caterina @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.The Votive Chapel dedicated to Santa Caterina @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Fresco depicting the blessed Alberto @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Mummified remains of the blessed Alberto @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.St Nicholas Chapel ... considered the most important @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno.Chapel of Santa Caterina @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Lily amongst the thorns ... symbolizes the Virgin Mary ... Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso.Colored glass windows @ the church ... Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Garden @ Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso — Leggiuno, Italy.Eremo di Santa Caterina del Sasso (water approach) — Leggiuno, Italy.

    Verbania: D5 … Eremo di SC del Sasso

    4 Ogos ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    One of the reasons we looked at using the ferry system for today’s outing was the highly touted water approach to the Hermitage of Santa Caterina of Sasso in Leggiuno.

    The hermitage is perched on a rock ledge at the bottom of a cliff overlooking the Gulf of Borromeo. Arriving by ferry gives visitors a unique perspective that is not available from any other vantage point. Unfortunately, we just could not make the ferry schedule work … which meant going there by car after we left Rocca di Angera.

    Shortly after 3:30p, we were parking the car and making our way to the ticket office that sits high above the hermitage, requiring one to negotiate 286 steps to get to it. Fear not, modern engineering, has made it possible for an elevator shaft to be dug through the rock in 2010 to make the hermitage more accessible. We opted to walk down and take the elevator back up.

    The hermitage was founded by Alberto Besozzi, a wealthy merchant, who began living here as a hermit after surviving a violent storm at sea. In 1195, he agreed to provide spiritual support to the residents of Lago Maggiore … provided they constructed a chapel honoring Santa Caterina del Sasso. He died and was buried here in 1205. We would be seeing the remains of the eremite next to the chapel that was built per his request.

    The current hermitage is unique in that it is a combination of three chapels that were built separately during three different periods. The frescoes are similarly from different periods but primarily from the 14th to the 19th centuries.

    Walking along a covered loggia with arched openings overlooking the lake, we first stopped at the Chapter Room …. originally the refectory of the old hermitage, which was built in the 14th century.

    A second loggia with arched windows — and a sun-bleached fresco of the Dance of the Macabre high on the wall … which, sadly, I missed — brought us to an inner courtyard. Here was a grotto with nativity figures. Also an ancient wooden wine and olive press.

    On the far side of the courtyard, a portico led us inside the church, which consists of five small chapels that were fused together in the 16th century. The oldest of these is the Votive Chapel from the 12th century that is dedicated to St Catherine. Located at the back of the nave, it is the core around which the remaining structures were added. Signage nearby indicated that it was built using the same measurements as the sepulcher of St Catherine of Alexandria on Mount Sinai.

    Lying in a glass coffin in a frescoed-vault — the so-called Chapel of the Rocks— we found the body of the later beatified Alberto. Signage explained that at the beginning of the 18th century, five big boulders crashed down on the church, but came to a halt on top of the vault, without causing any serious damage. The boulders remained there until 1910 when they harmlessly completed their roll down to the ground.

    Continuing my wander inside the church, I made my way from the back to the front, and squishing myself past some furniture, I found the St Nicholas Chapel. Constructed between the end of the 13th and beginning of the 14th century. With its damaged, but richly detailed frescoes that predate the ones in the Votive Chapel, it is considered the most important part of the church. I found additional old frescoes in the adjacent chapel dedicated to St Catherine. Though the date of its construction is not certain, its name is mentioned in a document from 1315. The Chapel of St Mary was next to… leading me back to the Chapel of the Rocks.

    Retracing our steps through the loggias, we wrapped up our visit in the garden at the far end of the grounds. I’m not sure how many people visit the gardens. Certainly, there was no one there when we went in for a wander … no colorful flowers, but a peaceful place to escape. From here, with tickets for the elevator in hand, we found the access tunnel leading 148 feet (45m) into the rock cliff to ride up 167 feet (51m) up to the top of the cliff.

    I’m glad we went to the hermitage even if we had to settle for not seeing it from the water. (I’ve included a screenshot from the website of the hermitage so you can see what we missed.)

    We managed to get on the 5:05p ferry departure from Laveno … a double-decker this time … but the upper level was entirely empty. By 6:00p, we were at home discussing dinner plans.

    Tomorrow we leave Italy to return to Switzerland for what’s left of our road trip.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.
    Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala delle Cerimonie — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala dei Fasti Borromeo — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala dei Fasti Borromeo — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala dei Fasti Borromeo — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala della Giustizia — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sala del Buon Romano — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Rocca di Angera — Angera, Italy.Rocca di Angera — Angera, Italy.Time to move on to our next stop for today ... Rocca di Angera — Angera, Italy.

    Verbania: D5 … Rocca di Angera (Part II)

    4 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    After checking out the doll and toy museum, which I mentioned in part I, we took the stairs up to the top floor … where we found a series of interconnected rooms designated as the historic halls.

    We began in the “Sala del Buon Romano” … so named for the painting that depicts Giovanni Borromeo driving the Goths from Rome … for which he was given the honorary title of “Buon Romano” [Good Roman].

    “Sala delle Cerimonie” [Hall of Ceremonies] was next. Of course, my eyes immediately went to the collection of mural fragments. At first, I thought they were the restored sections of the murals that once decorated the walls of this hall. Reading the info panel, however, I was surprised to learn that they were brought here from the Palazzo Borromeo in Milan. Turns out that the grand edifice was largely destroyed by WWII bombings in 1943. The fragments that could be saved were removed in 1946 and later brought here. The style of the murals is thought be that of Michelino da Bezosso, who worked for the family in 1445.

    The “Sala dei Fasti Borromeo” was next. The translator tells me the name means Hall of the Glories of Borromeo. I don’t know how high the mural decorating the lower 2/3rds of the room actually went, but I liked the geometric design. Against this background were two oversized paintings from the 1600s. The description panel stated that the room was named for these paintings, which were “… intended to celebrate the antiquity and splendor of the Borromeo dynasty …”. They sure weren’t shy about proclaiming their importance.

    And then we came to the pièce de résistance … the “Sala della Giustizia” [Hall of Justice. An anonymous master artist, known simply as the “Maestro di Angera,” painted the room with frescoes depicting the 1277 Battle of Desio … correlating it with the influence of the planets and the constellations of the zodiac. Geometric patterns added further interest.

    By all accounts, the frescoes decorating the walls and vaulted ceiling of the hall are considered amongst the most complex of the medieval period. Art historians agree that the unknown maestro had a storytelling flair uncommon in the world of northern Italian painting in the 13th and 14th centuries. All I know is that I was quite entranced by the frescoes that have survived to this day and can only imagine what a wondrous feast of color the room must have been back in the day when the paintings were intact.

    I’m glad we made time during our Verbania stay to visit the castle … we enjoyed it both inside and out.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Rocca di Angera ... as we drive up the limestone hill upon which it is perched — Angera, Italy.
    Arched entry into the first courtyard and belvedere — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Belvedere overlooking Lago Maggiore — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Angera Town and Lago Maggiore ... from the belvedere — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Angera Town from the belvedere — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Angera Town from the belvedere — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Rocca di Angera — Angera, Italy.Borromeo family emblems and the access to the lower courtyard — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Lower Courtyard — Rocca di Angera, Italy.18th century wine press in the former stables — Rocca di Angera, Italy.The lower and upper courtyards — Rocca di Angera, Italy.The lookout terrace of Torre Castellana ... now an observation terrace — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Expansive view from Torre Castellana — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Lago Maggiore and Angera from Torre Castellana — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Lago Maggiore and the defensive curtain wall from Torre Castellana — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Small vineyard on the castle grounds — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Defensive curtain wall — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Medieval Gardens — Rocca di Angera, Italy.The castle buildings from the Medieval Gardens — Rocca di Angera, Italy.The castle complex from the Medieval Gardens — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Medieval Gardens — Rocca di Angera, Italy.La Bambolaia (donated by P. Bonato) ... from the doll museum — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Small sample from the doll museum ... including "A Turk Smoking" (1890) — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Sample from the doll museum — Rocca di Angera, Italy.Small sample from the doll museum ... including a Barbie doll — Rocca di Angera, Italy.

    Verbania: D5 … Rocca di Angera (Part I)

    4 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    Our two-part day had us driving to Rocca di Angera first … the farthest point of our outing.

    As we had hoped, there was very little traffic on this section of the lakefront road and it took under one hour to get from the ferry terminal in Laveno to the town of Angera. Next, following instructions from the GPS, we drove roads so narrow that we had to fold the sideview mirrors so as not to break them. The good news? The road was one-way. No oncoming traffic to deal with as we made our way to the top of the 660-foot high limestone hill.

    On the way up, we got our first glimpse of the impressive Rocca di Angera … a castle that sits atop the spur of rock … overlooking the Lombardy shore of Lago Maggiore. Built for military control prior to the 10th century, the property was purchased by the Borromeo family in 1449 and still belongs to them.

    The castle consists of five buildings constructed during different time periods … including a tower and several wings. Several of the castle halls are used for exhibits that are included in the admission … as is the doll museum.

    After purchasing our admission, we walked through the arched gate and up the cobblestone path to another arched gate that opened on to a courtyard. Here, we wandered over to the belvedere to enjoy the aerial views of Lake Maggiore and the town.

    A third arched entrance — above which was a fresco depicting some of the Borromeo family emblems … i.e. unicorn for devotion; camel for patience — led us to the Corte Inferiore [Lower Courtyard]. A wander into the former stables revealed an 18th century wine press — one of the largest in Europe — and barrels that were once filled with wine.

    From the courtyard we gained entrance into one of the wings. I’m going to limit this footprint to the castle grounds and the medieval gardens, so I’ll skip the halls for now and go straight up the stairs at one end of the Hall of Justice.

    The wooden staircase took us to a narrow stone staircase that led to the covered terrace at the top of the Torre Castellana. I’m sure the space was intended as a defensive lookout when it was built. For us, it served as a great vantage point from which to enjoy the expansive views in every direction … and also gave us our first glimpse of the fortified curtain walls enclosing the castle grounds.

    Descending the tower, we went outside and wandered over to the Giardino Medievale. The sign at the entrance explained the four quadrants of the garden — the shaded Grove … for rest and relaxation; the small herbs garden … for aromatic kitchen and medicinal plants; the vegetable garden … the smaller size of which indicates the rise in prominence of ornamental gardens among the well-to-do classes; and the Prince’s Garden … strictly for pleasure and to delight the senses.

    At this point, I should stop writing. But one other part of the castle that I am going to squeeze into this footprint is the museum founded in 1988 by a member of the Borromeo family for the express purpose of exhibiting a collection of dolls and toys from the 18th century to today. Housed in 12 rooms in the Visconti and Borromeo wings, the museum is the first of its kind in Italy. I’m going to share a few photos from the museum in this footprint as well.

    Next up … the halls of Rocca di Angera

    ———————————————

    For those interested in toy museums … extra information from a panel at the entrance to the museum …

    “ … there is a clear connection between antique and modern dolls and social and education behavior, as well as strong ties with the customs and fashions of the past and present. … Without detracting from their ancient charm, the museum intends to follow paths that are strictly connected to history and the specific technology to make these items, in order to provide an essentially limited, educational overview that leaves any other interpretation to the visitor.
    … For this reason, the dolls are displayed in strictly chronological order, showing the different materials used in various periods and phases, from the age of handcrafting to the advent of the mass toy industry.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    One of the passenger-only ferries on Lago Maggiore — Intra, Italy
    Leaving the ferry terminal in Intra, Italy.Arriving in Laveno, Italy.Marina near Laveno, Italy.Mui ready to drive the car off the ferry in Laveno ... I will join him on shore.Waiting for the 5:05p ferry to depart Laveno, Italy.Panorama of Laveno, Italy as the ferry prepares to depart.Departing Laveno for the return ferry ride to Intra.Looking back at a part of Lago Maggiore's Lombardy shoreline.From shore to the ferry ... on the way back from Laveno, Italy.Hello Intra, Italy.

    Verbania: D5 … A Ferry Ride

    4 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The car went for a ferry ride on Lago Maggiore today … and took us along, too.

    Wanting to avoid the heavy traffic on the lakefront road heading south from Verbania and around the tip of the lake, we decided to take one of the ferries that ply the lake daily. When we couldn’t make the passenger-only ferry schedule work, we turned to the Servizio Traghetto, which regularly ferries vehicles between Intra and Laveno … a ride of approximately 20 minutes.

    We had a beautiful, blue-sky day for our ride … especially in the afternoon. On the way to Laveno, we opted to enjoy the ride from the passenger deck. On the way back to Intra, we had a front row seat, which allowed us to enjoy the ride from the car … though I did hop out for some photos and videos.

    Today turned out to be a photo-heavy day, which I am going to have to split into several footprints … starting with this footprint about today’s car ferry rides.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Strolling the back streets of Intra, Italy.
    Strolling the back streets of Intra, Italy.Around the corner and behind these buildings we find delicious gelato — Intra, Italy.Looks like we'll have to wait a bit before we get our turn at the gelateria — Intra, Italy.Strolling the back streets of Intra, Italy.Strolling the back streets of Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.Scale model of the Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.The Basilica of Saint Victor — Intra, Italy.

    Verbania: D4 … Intra

    3 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Intra is one of several small districts of Verbania … situated on the Borromean Gulf of Lago Maggiore. Leaving the beautiful grounds at Villa Taranto, we headed there next.

    Finding a parking spot near the ferry landing, we went off to find some food for our late lunch. It was already siesta time, which meant that our choices were limited. Nonetheless, we had a very tasty meal at Bar Sempione … a thin crust pizza with prosciutto and pistachio pesto … grilled octopus with roasted potatoes … all to share.

    Skipping dessert, we wandered the back streets of Intra in search of gelato, peeking into the Basilica of Saint Victor along the way. Our steps took us to a hidden piazzetta where we found a popular gelateria … the queue flowing out onto the street. It was worth the wait to take our turn at the counter.

    With the late afternoon temperature rising along with the humidity, we decided to call it a day and returned to the apartment to rest up. Tomorrow is our last day in Verbania and we have plans to check out a different section of the Lago Maggiore shoreline.    Baca lagi

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    Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.
    The Putti Fountain at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.From the dahlia maze at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Victoria cruziana greenhouse at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Victoria cruziana water lilies are native to South America ... Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto.Mausoleum Chapel at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Mausoleum Chapel at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Mausoleum Chapel at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Mausoleum Chapel at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Valley Bridge at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Taranto at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Taranto at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The lotus pond at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The terraced garden (from the bottom) ... Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Terraced Gardens at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Terraced Gardens at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Terraced Gardens at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Terraced Gardens from the Petalo Pavilion at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.The Fisherman ... the Terraced Gardens at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Taranto with the Swiss Mountains as a backdrop ... at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto.Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Intra & Lago Maggiore from the belvedere at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.Cityscape from the belvedere at Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto — Pallanza, Italy.

    Verbania: D4 … Villa Taranto Gardens

    3 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Staying local today meant a short drive to the Giardini Botanici Villa Taranto, located between Intra and Pallanza, two districts overlooking Lago Maggiore.

    Established by a Scotsman by the name of McEacharn between 1931-1940, the botanic gardens cover 16 hectares. After acquiring an existing villa, which dated back to 1870, and the neighboring lands, he made a number of major changes to the grounds, including the addition of several water features.

    The villa — named after an ancestor of McEacharn who was conferred the title of Duke of Taranto by Napoleon — now houses government offices, and is closed to public access. The sprawling gardens, which feature nearly 20,000 plants and more than 4 miles of paths, have been open to the public since 1952.

    We found parking in the lot overlooking Lago Maggiore, purchased our admission, and set off to explore the gardens … consisting of colorful flower beds; manicured lawns; terraced gardens; sculptures hidden amongst the plants; a maze of dahlias; a tropical greenhouse filled with Victoria cruziana water lilies; a lotus pond filled with so many plants that it resembled a forest of oversized green platters; rare trees rediscovered after they were thought to be extinct; fountains and streams spanned by bridges made of stone; and a myriad of other features.

    Taking our time to slowly stroll along the paths, we enjoyed the grounds … glad to have blue skies and sunshine, and temperatures that were milder than previous days.

    As we made our way to the formal terraced gardens at the high point of the grounds, we stopped at the McEacharn Mausoleum Chapel that was built in 1965 … with floral-themed stained glass windows bringing the color from the grounds inside. Various vantage points along the way afforded us views of the villa … with a fountain in the foreground sending a jet of water high into the air … with the not-too-distant Swiss mountains serving as a backdrop.

    The formal terraced gardens were a riot of warm colors, the scenery with the mountain-backdrop stunning. We wandered around a bit. We sat in the Petalo Pavilion for a bit. Eventually, our stomachs started complaining that it was long past the noon hour. So, we began the downward trek by way of a set of zig-zagging paths that afforded us views of Lago Maggiore and the neighboring town of Intra.    Baca lagi

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    Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.
    Statue of Christ with Egyptian symbology on the walls ... Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Closer look at the Egyptian symbology on the walls ... Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.Pallanza Cemetery — Verbania, Italy.

    Verbania: D4 … Pallanza Cemetery

    3 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    We decided to stay local today.

    As we were leaving, Mui said he wanted to drive by what looked like a memorial gate he’d seen from a distance. So, we made a detour to check it out.

    Turns out that what he had seen was the entrance to the Pallanza Cemetery. We decided to go in and take a look at some of the monumental family graves decorated with life-size statues. One of the most interesting was a grave that featured a statue of Christ in a niche that included pagan Egyptian symbols carved into the surrounding rock wall.Baca lagi

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    Collegiate Church of San Vittore — Cannobio, Italy.
    Collegiate Church of San Vittore — Cannobio, Italy.Collegiate Church of San Vittore — Cannobio, Italy.Stone art in Cannobio, Italy.Delicious fish and pasta lunch at Antica Stallera — Cannobio, ItalyFresco on a building — Cannobio, Italy.On our way to Piazza King Victor Emmanuel III — Cannobio, Italy.Piazza King Victor Emmanuel III and the marina in the rain — Cannobio, Italy.Piazza King Victor Emmanuel III and the marina — Cannobio, Italy.Charming Italian town ambiance from the marina — Cannobio, Italy.Greater Cormorant at the marina — Cannobio, Italy.Colorful floral display — Cannobio, Italy.Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà — Cannobio, Italy.Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà — Cannobio, Italy.Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà — Cannobio, Italy.Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà — Cannobio, Italy.Depictions of the painting that was the centerpiece of the Miracle of the Holy Pity — Cannobio, IT.Yellow-legged Gull — Cannobio, Italy.Stone seats built into the wall along the promenade offer a place to rest and enjoy the lake views.Charming streetscape — Cannobio, Italy.Along the lakefront promenade — Cannobio, Italy.Looking toward Piazza King Victor Emmanuel III from the promenade — Cannobio, Italy.Fresco on a building — Cannobio, Italy.

    Verbania: D3 … Cannobio

    2 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Cannobio, our next stop, was just about 4 miles from Cannero Riviera. Here we had to go around the parking lot a couple of times before we were able to snag a spot to leave the car for a couple of hours.

    Following an alley, we came to the main road where we found the Collegiate Church of San Vittore … the earliest version of which was built in 1076. The current church, which has an elliptical dome and cupola, was consecrated in 1749. The sacred rib — the story of which I will relate later in this footprint — is kept in a chapel in this church.

    On our way down to the lakefront piazza overlooking Lago Maggiore, we detoured to have a late lunch at Antica Stallera … known for serving homemade specialties. Despite the threat of rain, we opted to sit in the garden, protected by an oversized umbrella. I ordered pasta; Mui ordered fish … and we shared the two dishes. We skipped dessert in lieu of getting gelato somewhere in town.

    A light rain was falling when we left the restaurant. Putting on our rain jackets, we strolled toward the lakefront, found a gelateria en route for a sweet treat, and continued to the piazza named for King Victor Emmanuel III. Despite the rain, the scenery with the colored buildings overlooking Lago Maggiore was charming. Unlike Cannero Riviera, Cannobio was buzzing with activity, the restaurants and shops doing brisk business. No one seemed to mind the rain.

    Walking past the small marina, we continued toward the far end of the waterfront. Seeing the door to the Sanctuary of the Santissima Pietà open, we went inside. The construction of the church was commissioned by San Carlo Borromeo around 1578 … over an earlier church, which stood on the spot where the Miracle of the Holy Pity is said to have occurred in 1522.

    The miracle involves a painting of Christ standing with Mary and St John. According to the story, the figure of Christ came alive and began to emit blood and tears, while a fragment of a human rib protruded from his wounded side. The original painting is in a niche of the main altar. A replica of the painting was displayed on an easel off to the side for ease of viewing. The rib, which I mentioned above as being kept in the Church of San Vittore, is carried to the Sanctuary once a year on 7 January … illuminated only by the candles and lanterns placed on windowsills and along the streets.

    The rain had ended by the time we left the church. Reversing our course, we strolled back to the piazza and beyond, and found an alternate route back to the car via the waterfront. Perfect timing, as we missed the heavy rain that started to fall as we left Cannobio to return to Verbania.

    ———————————————————

    For those interested in what we ate: The pasta dish was made with busiate (a type of pasta that originated in Sicily) prepared Nerano style with courgettes (including the flowers), Caciocavallo cheese, and a hint of Sorrento lemon scent. The fish was a sea bass fillet, served with fennel, carrots, citrus fruit, and lemon oil.    Baca lagi

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    Castelli di Cannero ... drive-by shooting on our way to Cannero Riviera, Italy.
    Castelli di Cannero ... drive-by shooting on our way to Cannero Riviera, Italy.Our first glimpse of Cannero Riviera, Italy.The marina — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Lemons grow in the area thanks to the temperate weather — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Cannero, Italy.Cannero Riviera, Italy.The old port — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The Old Port dates back to the 19th century — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Chiesa di San Rocco — Cannero Riviera, Italy.An open door on the street allows a glimpse of a fresco — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Chiesa di San Giorgio and hillside view from the bridge — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Chiesa di San Giorgio from the bridge — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Chiesa di San Giorgio from a residential street — Cannero Riviera, Italy.Cannero Creek from the bridge — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The replica of the Grotto of Lourdes — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The Parish Church of San Giorgio — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The Parish Church of San Giorgio — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The dome fresco features the Assumption of Mary into Heaven with Pope Pius XII — Cannero Riviera.The Parish Church of San Giorgio — Cannero Riviera, Italy.The wax model of St Faustus the Martyr ... in the crypt of San Giorgio — Cannero, Italy.Model of the Castelli di Cannero ... in the crypt of San Giorgio — Cannero, Italy.Model of the Castelli di Cannero ... in the crypt of San Giorgio — Cannero, Italy.

    Verbania: D3 … Cannero Riviera

    2 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Today we headed in the opposite direction from Stresa to explore a bit of the northwestern shore of Lago Maggiore. That we had far less traffic to deal with on the shoreline road was a bonus.

    We’d seen photos of the Castelli de Cannero, three islets on the lake … two of which are home to the ruins of ancient fortifications that were built during the first quarter of the 16th century by Ludovico Borromeo. We kept an eye out for them as we drove, and I managed to get a couple of useable photos … drive-by shooting the only option since there was nowhere to pull over.

    Arriving at the small town of Cannero Riviera, we lucked out with a parking spot right on the waterfront … not far from the small marina … and the ‘lemon sculpture’ on the lakefront promenade.

    We knew that landing on the islets to visit the ruins of the fortifications was not possible, but we thought we might do a boat ride for a closer look if the timing worked out. No can do … as we found out from signage at the pier.

    Instead, we went for a stroll on the lakefront promenade, enjoying the beautiful day. For what is described as a bustling resort town, the town was unexpectedly quiet … which made our walk all the more pleasant.

    When we reached the old boat harbor, we turned inland, negotiating the maze of narrow streets of what was a fishing hamlet in medieval times. We peeked into the Chiesa di San Rocco when we found its door open … date of construction unknown but it took on its current form in the 17th century; continued through residential neighborhoods to cross the Ponte della Vittorio; and headed up the hill to the Chiesa di San Giorgio, which we had seen from the road as we drove by.

    Arriving at the church from the back road, we stopped first at the Grotta della Madonna di Lourdes below the church. Nearby signage explained that the cave was manmade and replicated the natural one in France. Using the stairs off to the side, we then went up to the church.

    The present day San Giorgio, which dates back to 1841, replaced an earlier church that was destroyed in 1829 by a flash flood of the Cannero Stream. Historic documents indicate, however, that there were previous religious buildings on the site … one as early as 985. Some of the features, such as the marble balustrades, were salvaged from the previous church.

    Before leaving, I stumbled on the crypt from 1892 where the relics of St Faustus the Martyr are preserved … the reconstructed skeletal remains were remodeled in wax in 1957. Also in the crypt was a model of the Castelli di Cannero, so I did get a closer look at the ancient fortifications after all 😜.

    Taking a roundabout route, we returned to the car. The clouds in the sky had started to turn grey. Rain was clearly going to start falling soon. Nonetheless, we decided push on further north to do a bit more sightseeing.    Baca lagi

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    Mui waiting for me to join him for a stroll in the gardens — Isola Bella, Stresa.
    Diana's Atrium, named for the pagan goddess (statue in the alcove) — Isola Bella, Stresa.A number of peacocks roam about freely ... this one patiently posed for me — Isola Bella.2Teatro Massimo ... with a number of visitors when we first arrive — Isola Bella, Stresa.Teatro Massimo ... 15 minutes later and hardly anyone else around — Isola Bella, Stresa.A few of the statues at Teatro Massimo — Isola Bella, Stresa.Statue of Neptune ... Teatro Massimo — Isola Bella, Stresa.Colorful flowers — Isola Bella, Stresa.One of the garden niches with a statue — Isola Bella, Stresa.A glimpse of the Parterre of Azaleas from the terrace — Isola Bella, Stresa.Parterre of Azaleas ... beyond the mountains is Switzerland — Isola Bella, Stresa.Parterre of Azaleas — Isola Bella, Stresa.Parterre of Azaleas — Isola Bella, Stresa.Color through a wrought iron gate — Isola Bella, Stresa.Gardens at Isola Bella, Stresa.The tower behind us now houses a café Parterre of Azaleas — Isola Bella, Stresa.Gardens at Isola Bella, Stresa.Garden of Love from the terrace — Isola Bella, Stresa.Designed in 1634, the Garden of Love retains its original Italian Garden layout — Isola Bella.The Garden of Love — Isola Bella, Stresa.Gardens at Isola Bella, Stresa.Glimpse of the palazzo through the trees in one of the gardens — Isola Bella, Stresa.Gardens at Isola Bella, Stresa.From the orchid greenhouse at the gardens of Isola Bella, Stresa.Waterfront on the back side of Isola Bella, Stresa.Mergansers entertain us as we wait for the boat to take us to the mainland — Isola Bella, Stresa.Bye bye Isola Bella ... from the boat back to Stresa, Italy.The terraces of the Garden of Love on Isola Bella ... from the boat ride back to Stresa.

    Verbania: D2 … Isola Bella (the Gardens)

    1 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    And then there were the gardens at Isola Bella … some of which predate the construction of the palazzo.

    The formal Italian-style baroque gardens continue the over-the-top theme of the palazzo outside. Beautiful … perfectly manicured … flowers adding pops of color … white peacocks strolling about freely.

    We spent quite a bit of time at Teatro Massimo, the section of the garden that consists of ten terraces that form a truncated pyramid … surrounded by sculptures and parterres. And also at the Garden of Love, which retains its original Italian Garden layout from the 17th century.

    When we first arrived at Teatro Massimo, there were a number of visitors dawdling in front of the main feature … returning 15 minutes later, there was hardly a soul around … perfect for a selfie. The rest of the gardens were crowd-free for some reason. No complaints. It made for a peaceful stroll as we checked out the nooks and crannies.

    Turns out that the tower at the far end of the gardens has been turned into a café. We debated getting some pastries and tea, and sitting down for a bit. But ended up getting some gelato on the run so that we would have time to explore the island village. Should have done the tea and pastries as we were disappointed that the village consisted of little more than shops and restaurants.

    Returning to the pier for the ride back to Stresa, we were entertained by a flock of mergansers swimming near the shoreline … and small brown birds in search of tidbits of snacks dropped on the ground by visitors.

    The boat returned us directly to Stresa, so it was a really short ride … one that, however, gave us a chance to see Isola Bella from the water.    Baca lagi

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    The state staircase has granite steps and a marble balustrade — Isola Bella, Stresa.
    Medal Room ... originally the Sala Grande, used for state banquets — Isola Bella, Stresa.Berthier Gallery Ceiling; the walls are covered with artwork in gilded frames — Isola Bella, Stresa.Sala del Trono ... so named for the monumental 18th century throne — Isola Bella, Stresa.Queen's Room ... named for the wife of the King of Sardinia, who spent two nights here — Isola BellaSalone Nuovo; last addition to the palazzo ... Mui provides perspective for the size of the room.Ceiling of Salone Nuovo — Isola Bella, Stresa.The Music Room is where the Stresa Conference was held in April 1935 — Isola Bella, Stresa.1Isola dei Pescatori from the Music Room — Isola Bella, Stresa.Photo op with Isola dei Pescatori — Isola Bella, Stresa.Ceiling detail from the Small Study — Isola Bella, Stresa.Napoleon's Room ... where Bonaparte slept in 1797 with his wife, Josephine — Isola Bella, Stresa.Luca Giordano Room ... named for his paintings; red velvet chairs belonged to Cardinal F. Borromeo.Rare saddle made with carved bone plaques on a wooden structure — Isola Bella, Stresa.Conversation Room; the table was a gift from Pope Leo XII to Count Gilberto Borromeo — Isola Bella.Ballroom ; Belgium's King Leopold was so taken with the room that he recreated a copy — Isola Bella.Display of some of the puppets used in the island's old theater — Isola Bella, Stresa."Sleeping Venus" in the third room of the Grotto Apartment — Isola Bella, Stresa.Floor and ceiling detail from the Grotto Apartment — Isola Bella, Stresa.6th Grotto; collection of saddles; architectural model of Arona Fortress (destroyed by Napoleon).Margherita Medici Room; named for her ceremonial portrait; wife of Gilberto II Borromeo.Galleria degli Arazzi; houses a collection of Flemish tapestries from around 1565 — Isola Bella.A tapestry from the Unicorn Collection; the unicorn was one of the symbols of the Borromeos.Fresco Hall ... fresco was brought here from the Borromeo Palazzo in Milan — Isola Bella, Stresa.Spiral Staircase in the Tower ... left incomplete with no decoration — Isola Bella, Stresa.

    Verbania: D2 … Isola Bella (the Palazzo)

    1 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    The cruise from Isola dei Pescatori to Isola Bella was a short one … no more than five minutes. We got off the boat at a pier near the monumental palazzo that, together with extensive gardens, is the centerpiece of the island.

    When the Borromeos — a wealthy Italian noble family — first acquired the island in the early 16th century, it was little more than a barren rock. Carlo III Borromeo named the island after his wife, Isabella. After all, the island came to him as part of her dowry. In 1632, he began construction of the palazzo. The project was delayed due to a plague outbreak, and later continued by Vitaliano VI and Carlo IV … the latter adding the terraced gardens. Generations of Borromeos followed, each adding its own touch. The palazzo took its present form in 1948 with the addition of the Salone Nuovo. Members of the family still live in a part of the palazzo during the warmer months.

    Described as a Baroque art museum, the opulence of the palazzo is quite something else. Frescoed walls and ceilings; gilded ornamentations; plaster of Paris decorations that add a 3D effect; gobelin-upholstered chairs; invaluable artwork in carved and gilded frames; crystal chandeliers; gifts from Popes; marble inlay and terrazzo floors; each room named for its original purpose, historic event or a distinctive feature. All designed as acknowledgment of the family’s wealth and prestige.

    Our meander through the building took us from a throne room complete with a gilded throne topped with an embroidered silk canopy; to a sala where the centerpiece was a gilded piano with a painted lid stood; to the Napoleon Room where Bonaparte and his wife slept on 17 August 1797; to the grotto apartment … garden-level rooms that are literally encrusted with pebbles, tufa rock, marble, and seashells; to the tapestry gallery that exhibits a collection of Flemish tapestries known as the Unicorn Collection … dating back to 1565; to the La Sala della Musica … where Benito Mussolini and the heads of the French and British governments met to discuss the violations of the Versailles Treaty by the Hitler Germany. It was all over-the-top … gaudy some might say; beautiful and elegant others might find it. Interesting either way.

    Next up … the gardens.    Baca lagi

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    Isola dei Pescatori (L) & Isola Bella from the boat pier ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.
    Aerial view of Isola dei Pescatori (L) & Isola Bella; Isola Madre further out on Lago Maggiore.Closer look at Isola dei Pescatori ... one of the Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Heading off on our boat ride on Lake Maggiore, we pass Isola dei Pescatori ...... for a quick stop to drop off passengers at Isola Madre, before ...... returning to Isola dei Pescatori where we see the back side of the island and then ...... continue to the boat pier to disembark for a brief visit — Isola dei Pescatori, Italy.Welcome to Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Lacecap hydrangea ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Mui showing how narrow some of the streets are ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Mainland lakefront town from Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Mainland lakefront town from Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Small boat harbor ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Small boat harbor ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Statue of the Virgin Mary at the small boat harbor ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Waterfowl in the small boat harbor ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Church of San Vittore ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Church of San Vittore ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.Church of San Vittore ... Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.16th century fresco ... Church of San Vittore on Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.16th century frescoes ... Church of San Vittore on Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Photo op with Isola Bella in the background ... from Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Isola Bella ... our next stop ... from Isola dei Pescatori ... Borromean Islands.Heading off to Isola Bella next ... Borromean Islands — Stresa, Italy.

    Verbania: Day 2 … Isola dei Pescatori

    1 Ogos, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Our more relaxed attitude towards travel these days means that early departures for sightseeing are now the exception rather than the norm. Hence, it was getting on towards 10:00a when we got in the car and headed to Stresa.

    Our destination was the Isole Borromee … aka Borromean Islands. We could have done the boat trip from Pallanza and avoided the traffic on the lakefront road to Stresa. But the ride across Lago Maggiore from Pallanza is longer, and the schedule is less frequent.

    Traffic on the lakefront road was bad, but not horrible like it was yesterday. Once we neared Stresa, I used Google Maps to get us to the piers from which the boats ferrying visitors leave for the islands.

    We would like to have visited all three islands, but knew that realistically, we had time for just two. Having read the descriptions, we settled on Pescatori — aka Superiore — and Bella.

    Purchasing a two-island ticket from VS for €10 each, we hopped on the small boat and sat in the aft deck for the short boat ride. The first stop was at Isola Bella, but neither we nor others with multi-island tickets were allowed to get off then. Not sure why, but we were told that we had to go first to Isola dei Pescatori … Fishermen’s Island. It was a pleasant enough ride on the Lake Maggiore, so we didn’t really mind. The bonus? We got to briefly see Isola Madre, which is further out on the lake.

    Long story short, I have to admit to a bit of disappointment with the ambiance of Pescatori … the only one of the islands that is inhabited all year round. The buildings have seemingly been converted into shops or restaurants, with advertisement signs marring much of the streetscape. Didn’t see a single fisherman anywhere.

    It’s not that we didn’t enjoy strolling around Pescatori, but it was a far cry from the charming fishing village that the description had led us to expect. I suppose if you like to browse shops or want a seafood meal, it’s a fine place. Just not what we were looking for … especially since it was too early for lunch.

    Anyway, we wandered the narrow streets, searching out photo ops … lost ourselves in the maze of back streets, and came out near the Church of San Vittore … parts of which date back to the 9th century. The frescoes in the Chapel of Santa Maria, painted by an unknown master in the 16th century, were an unexpected surprise. In the small port area, we watched grebes and ducks paddling in the water, and stopped to enjoy a small rowboat filled with colorful flowers.

    With 30 minutes to spare before the boat was due back to take us to Isola Bella, we were done exploring Isola dei Pescatori. Mui got himself an espresso at a stand-up bar, and then we found some shade on the waterfront and enjoyed the lake scenery while we waited.    Baca lagi

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    The lakefront promenade welcomes visitors with a dancing fountain — Pallanza, Italy.
    1The dancing fountains on Lake Maggiore — Pallanza, Italy.The bell tower of St Leonard's from the waterfront — Pallanza, Italy.Houses overlooking the piazza on the waterfront — Pallanza, Italy.St Leonard's is the 16th century parish church — Pallanza, Italy.St Leonard's Church — Pallanza, Italy.St Leonard's Church — Pallanza, Italy.2Ceiling detail from one of the side chapels — St Leonard's Church — Pallanza, Italy.The dancing fountains on Lake Maggiore — Pallanza, Italy."We Were Soldiers of Italy" ... WWI Memorial — Pallanza, Italy.Mausoleo Luigi Cadorna, Chief of Staff of the Italian Army in WWI — Pallanza, Italy.Memorial to a cypress tree that was uprooted during a convective storm in August 2019 — Pallanza.A small marina along the lakefront — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Giulia ... originally built by the inventor of Fernet Branca, a famous Italian liqueur.Giardini Villa Giulia ... both the villa and the garden are owned by the city — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Giulia — Pallanza, Italy.The lakefront promenade from Giardini Villa Giulia — Pallanza, Italy.The lakefront promenade from Giardini Villa Giulia — Pallanza, Italy.Delicious dinner at Caffe delle Rose — Pallanza, Italy.

    Verbania: Exploring Pallanza

    31 Julai, Itali ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Technically, we could have walked to Pallanza, Verbania’s lakefront district. But it was still quite hot when we left the house around 4:00p. So, we drove instead. Pure luck landed us a parking spot right on the promenade overlooking Lago Maggiore … not far from the Town Hall.

    My attention was immediately caught by the dancing fountains on the lake … music in the background. Lots of colorful flowers; some statues; a WWI memorial, and a mausoleum just a few steps away. It all combined to make for a pleasant area to wander.

    Spotting the bell tower of St Leonard’s, the 16th century church that was built on the site where once a church from the 13th century stood, we wandered over to take a peek before the 6:00p mass.

    Our steps eventually took us to what was listed as a garden at Villa Giulia … originally built by the man who invented Fernet Branca, one of Italy’s famous liqueurs. There wasn’t much in the way of flowers, but manicured grounds and an expansive view of Lago Maggiore made for a peaceful spot. There was an art exhibit at the villa, but checking out the artist’s work online, we decided it wasn’t to our taste and skipped it.

    Our meander back to the town center gave Mui a chance to check restaurant ratings and menus. We settled on the Caffe delle Rose Bistrot on a side street in the centro storico ... an art-nouveau style restaurant with a retro charm described as a “… journey through time among 1920s counters, artwork, old skylights, and turn-of-the-century advertisements.” The food was delicious … the chef is the Michelin-starred Massimiliano Celeste.

    We skipped dessert at the bistro for a piccolo gelato later from a shop at the top of the street. After our sweet treat, we drove back to the apartment for an early night. We’re hoping to get out early tomorrow to avoid the worst of the traffic on the coastal road.

    ——————————————

    For those interested in the details of what we ate:

    We started out with an amuse-bouche compliments of the chef … a frothy, cold soup consisting of tomatoes, mozzarella, and basilico oil … liquid Caprese salad, if you will. I ordered the Acquerello Risotto, so named for the type of rice used … prepared a la cacio e pepe and garnished with caramelized shallots. It was a primi piatti, but perfectly sized as a main course for me. Mui ordered the grilled octopus, served on a bed of mashed potatoes, and garnished with leeks, raisins, and toasted almonds.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    One last view of Isola di San Giulio before we bid farewell to Orta — Italy.
    Open space living/kitchenette area at the apartment — Verbania, Italy.Welcome kit from the hosts — Verbania, Italy.The outside space is a good-sized balcony with self-watering plants — Verbania, Italy.View from the balcony — Verbania, Italy.Community garden patches and distant mountains — Verbania, Italy.Our sleeping quarters have skylights in lieu of windows — Verbania, Italy.The facilities with a second access door to the balcony — Verbania, Italy.

    OtR: Orta to Verbania

    31 Julai, Itali ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We had arranged with Nicolò to drive us to the covered parking structure at 9:30a … easier than wheeling our bags over the cobblestones. We were up early, however, and even with one last wander down to Piazza Motta after breakfast, we were ready to leave by 9:00a. So was Nicolò. Andiamo!

    In hindsight, we should have avoided the heavy traffic on the coastal road along Lago Maggiore and gone directly to Verbania. Stresa and the other towns along the lake were packed with visitors. ‘Entitled’ drivers disregarded the red and green lights managing traffic in the construction zones, causing unnecessary back-ups. Very frustrating.

    Having received notification that the apartment we’d organized through Booking.com was ready for us to check-in, we jiggled our plans and re-programmed the GPS to take us there. We would do our sightseeing after settling into the apartment instead.

    By 10:30a, I was following the instructions to collect the keys and open the gate to the apartment complex. Parking — free — was one of the reasons why we had booked a place in a quiet neighborhood on the outskirts of Verbania instead of within the hustle and bustle of the resort towns along the lake. It turned out to be a good decision.

    While the place lacks the charm of the Orta cottage, it has all the amenities we need for what we anticipate will be a sightseeing-heavy five-night stay. The hosts even left us a “welcome kit” of snacks and breakfast ingredients to get us started. That we won’t have to deal with the busy coastal roads to get everywhere is a bonus, as is the far-more wallet friendly nightly rate.

    After settling in, we drove to a nearby supermarket to top up on groceries and returned to have a light lunch on the balcony. Browsing a coffee table book that our hosts had left for us, we also came up with a sightseeing plan for the next several days.

    The blue-sky summer day temp was still a bit too hot for sightseeing, so Mui decided to take a nap before we ventured out. I used the time while he rested to do a bit of bookkeeping and a few chores … a productive use of our downtime.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    The oratory where tonight's dinner event took place — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Outdoor chapel at the oratory where tonight's dinner event took place — Orta San Giulio.Honoring the Alpini troops of Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Cheers! Dinner event honoring the Alpini troops of Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Selfie with Nicolò, our host at Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Sagra Alpina

    30 Julai, Itali ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Yesterday, Nicolò invited us to dinner. “Join us if you would like some good, simple food,” was the way he worded the invitation. He went on to describe it as an event that is part of a local festival.

    The festival in question, which is being kicked off with tonight’s community dinner, is the “Sagra Alpina.” It’s a commemorative event that concludes on August 3 with a flag-raising ceremony, and a parade to lay flags at monuments. It is designed to honor the “suffering of the Alpini of Orta.”

    Unfamiliar with the Alpini, I looked it up on the internet. Turns out that the Alpini are the special mountain infantry unit of the Italian Army. These troops apparently distinguished themselves in combat during WWI and WWII.

    The dinner was being served in the courtyard of the Oratorio Sacro Cuore [Oratory of the Sacred Heart] … next door to Casa Longhi. We didn’t have far to go. Amongst the first to arrive, we had our pick of the communal tables. We opted to sit in the back and observe the festivities. We were later joined by some of the local families who seemed to get a kick out of our presence as we were the only non-Ortans present.

    The menu offered a couple of choices … all ‘nonna-style’ cooking. Mui went up to order our food, which was delivered by waitresses who came around collecting the tickets that were issued when placing the order. It was all very well organized.

    We both opted for the Bolognese pasta since Mui thought the bistecca might well be horse meat, which is still part of traditional Italian cuisine. Our pasta came with a side salad and dessert … chocolate torta. Good food. Good fun. And a great way to wrap up our stay in Orta.

    Tomorrow we move on … though we don’t really want to leave. However, it is too late to cancel our prepaid accommodations in Verbania, Italy. Casa Longhi is booked anyway. Hopefully, the newcomers will enjoy their stay as much as we have.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    A gleaming red Fiat Cinquecento ... an older model, I believe — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    This feline is the only living creature we encounter on the Motta Climb to Santa Maria Assunta.Kitty cat on the Motta Climb — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The Church of Santa Maria Assunta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The Church of Santa Maria Assunta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The Church of Santa Maria Assunta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Festival preparations underway in Piazza Mottta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Taking advantage of festival decorations in Piazza Mottta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Arches add charm to the street — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Eerily Quiet

    30 Julai, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Our stepped-meander down from Sacro Monte to Orta took us to the top of the Motta Climb.

    We’d strolled up the Climb from the piazza to the Church of Santa Maria Assunta yesterday … only to find it locked up at the time. When we noticed that it was open this afternoon, we went inside for a quick look.

    The current church sits on the site of a smaller church that was built in the 15th century as a votive offering to the Virgin of the Consolation after the end of an epidemic. Over the centuries, the building was enlarged to its present shape. Its dedication to the Madonna of the Assumption took place in 1560.

    The lights were off inside the church, so we didn’t view the frescoes decorating the interior under the best circumstances. Nonetheless, I am glad we had a chance to go inside.

    As we continued on to the cottage through Piazza Motta, we noticed that it was eerily quiet … considering the time of day. In fact, the whole town seemed especially peaceful. So different from yesterday at the same time. However, there were floral decorations that hadn’t been in the piazza before. Preparations were obviously underway for the local festival that Nicolò had mentioned to us.

    Stopping to take a few photos, we headed home to rest up for our evening engagement.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    View from our hike up to Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Chapel XI ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Chapel XI: St Francis obtains the indulgence of the Portiuncula ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Italy.Chapel XI ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Chapel XIII: St Francis being led naked through the streets of Assisi ... Sacro Monte di Orta.Chapel XIII ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Chapel XIII ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Chapel XIV: St Francis Before the Sultan of Egypt ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta, Italy.Chapel XV: dedicated to St Francis receiving the stigmata on Mount Verna ... Sacro Monte di Orta.The New Chapel was never completed ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta, Italy.Chapel XVI: St Francis Returns to Assisi from Mt Verna ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta, Italy.Chapel XVI: St Francis Returns to Assisi from Mt Verna ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta, Italy.Chapel XVII: The death of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Canobian Chapel (XX): Canonization of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Canonization of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Canonization of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Canonization of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.From Chapel XX toward the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Italy.Portico of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Italy.The Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The Madonna della Pietà is behind glass at the altar of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis.The Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.2Isola di San Giulio from the terrace of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis.Isola di San Giulio from the terrace of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis.Statue of St Francis on the stepped path down from Sacro Monte di Orta to Orta — Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Sacro Monte di Orta

    30 Julai, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Another not-to-be-missed place in the area, we were told, is the UNESCO World Humanity Heritage Site of “Riserva Speciale del Sacro Monte di Orta” … one of four sites in the Lago Maggiore region that, overall, have been designated “Sacri Monti.”

    At 1,300-feet (400m), the mount is the highest point of the peninsula on which Orta is located. It is considered sacred for its “… monumental complex of 21 chapels, with 900 frescoes, 336 statues, and the Church of the Saints Nicholas and Francis … .” The complex, which is the only one dedicated to the life of St Francis of Assisi instead of Christ, was constructed over 100 years … starting in 1590.

    While the site can be accessed by a stepped-climb from Piazza Motta, we decided to head there after our visit to Legro. Thus our route took us up the back way … the road that is used to access Sacro Monte by car. It was a steep climb, which wouldn’t have been bad if it had not been such a hot afternoon. At least we saw some lovely views through breaks in the trees.

    Once at the top, Mui and I split up, He went right to check out a few chapels and then find a place to sit and wait for me. I went left. The downside of the direction I took was that I basically saw the chapels in reverse order, starting with the death of St Francis. No matter … I sorted and ordered them appropriately here.

    Mui and I met up at the Church of the Saints Nicholas and Francis. We peeked inside the church to see the wooden statue of the Madonna della Pietà, which dates back to the 10th century.

    After enjoying the views of Isola di San Giulio from the terrace, we took the stepped path down to Orta. Time to rest up before our dinner engagement.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Our walk starts out flat on the road along the shoreline of Lake Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Glimpse of Lake Orta from the shoreline road — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Mansions on the hillsides overlook Lake Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Almost entirely hidden by the trees — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Villa Crespi ... once a vacation home; today a hotel — Orta San Giulio, Italy.An enchanting weathervane — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Welcome to "the Cinema on the Wall" ... Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco honoring Ennio Moricone ... Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Silvana Mangano in "Bitter Rice" ... fresco in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy."Bread, Love and Dreams" with Gina Lollobrigida and Vittorio de Sica ... Fresco in Legro — Orta.Oratorio di Santa Caterina in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Oratorio di Santa Caterina in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Oratorio di Santa Caterina in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … The Painted Village

    30 Julai, Itali ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    One of the places mentioned under the sightseeing section of the Casa Longhi house booklet was Legro … described as the painted village. Can you say murals? Or maybe frescoes?

    After returning to Orta from our trip to Isola di San Giulio, we had a delicious lunch at Lilo Fieno, one of the restaurants in town, and then set off for the hamlet of Legro.

    The 30-minute walk to get there was fairly easy … along the shoreline of Lake Orta first, and then inland past Villa Crespi. The latter is billed as a hotel with luxurious suites and Michelin 3 star cuisine. It is housed in a 19th century Moorish-influenced mansion — complete with a minaret-like tower — that was once the holiday home of a wealthy cotton merchant. Certainly eye catching … but out-of-place, I thought, in the Lake Orta setting.

    What qualified this walk as ‘fairly’ easy instead of just easy was the temperature. With little shade along the way, the sun was downright brutal. Luckily we had water with us, and were able to replenish our supply when we detoured to the train station for Mui to order a coffee as the cost of using the facilities.

    Legro is one of the 200+ places in Italy famed for frescoes painted using the traditional techniques … by artists both well-known and unknown. The theme in Legro gives it the nickname of “the Cinema on the Wall” and features movies that have been filmed around Lake Orta.

    I’m not sure if we found all 60 of the frescoes, but our meander did uncover a number of them … including the one painted in honor of Ennio Morricone, who wrote many movie scores … “The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly” amongst them.

    Unfortunately, some of the frescoes were difficult to photograph … blocked by trees or simply because of the access angles. The Italian movies represented by the frescoes were unfamiliar to us … except for “A Farewell to Arms” … same with most of the names of the stars … except for Gina Lollobrigida, Rock Hudson, Vittorio de Sica.

    A quick stop at the Oratorio de Santa Caterina before we left Legro, and then we moved on to our next stop of the day.    Baca lagi

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    We begin today's sightseeing at Isola di San Giulio, Italy.
    From the Orta to Isola di San Giulio boat ride — Italy.Mater Ecclesiae (Mother of the Church) Abbey — Isola di San Giulio, Italy.The basilica and the bell tower with the lantern tower to the left — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyBasilica — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyCeiling and roof detail at the basilca — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyDoctors of the Church fresco @ the basilica — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyThe Nativity fresco @ the basilica — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyOne of the two consoles of the basilica's pipe organ — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyThe reliquary of St Julius in the crypt of the basilica — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFresco on the wall of a building that houses a small shop — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyGlimpse of Orta from Isola di San Giulio — Italy.From the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyA fresco on the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyElaborate door knocker ... the pedestrian road on Isola di San Giulio — Italy.From the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyBirds bathing in the waves — Isola di San Giulio, Italy.Departing Isola di San Giulio to return to Orta — Italy.On the boat ride back to Orta San Giulio — Lake Orta, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Isola di San Giulio

    30 Julai, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    First on our sightseeing agenda today was Isola di San Giulio, an island in the middle of Lake Orta.

    People have lived on the island since the Neolithic and Iron Ages, but it was abandoned for a time during the Roman Period. It later became home to a Duke of Lombard and to Berengar II, a King of Italy. Otto the Great, a Holy Roman Emperor, lived on the island for a while during the 10th century. Today just a few families live on the island permanently, allowing it to maintain its old world charm.

    There are a couple of companies that operate the boats that ferry people to the island and the other towns that rim the lakeshore. We simply chose the next one leaving from Piazza Motta, purchasing tickets for the island transfer only.

    Isola di San Giulio is thought to have been a pre-Christian cultural center … perhaps the reason why Julius of Novara — now St Julius — “reached the island sailing on his cloak, freed it from dragons [pagans], and built a church here that was dedicated to the Twelve Apostles.” It is generally accepted that he lived and died on the island during the latter part of the 5th century.

    That first church was later replaced by larger ones. The current Romanesque-style church — Basilica di San Giulio — dates back to the 12th century … modified during the following centuries. Today, it is part of a Benedictine monastery, which was built on the site of a fortified castle that was razed in 1841 to make room for it.

    Arriving at the island, we visited the basilica first. I was immediately struck by the frescoes that date back to the 14th and 16th centuries. While not pristine by any means, they are in remarkably good shape. Before leaving the basilica, we went down to the crypt where we saw the reliquary of St Julius … and a small exhibit of architectural features uncovered during archaeological excavations.

    Next, we took a stroll on the narrow pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island. Along the path, signs encourage people to walk in silence and meditate. The aphorisms were in Italian, German, English, and French, making Google Translate unnecessary … The Way of the Silence … Listen to the Silence … Walls are in Your Mind … Listen to the Water, the Wind, Your Steps. I think that adding a few benches along the road would give people a chance to sit and enjoy the serene atmosphere as they meditate.

    As popular as the island is, we were surprised at how few people we encountered on the island … even though a good number of people had disembarked the boat with us. No more than 10 people passed us as we slowly strolled the road. Where had everyone disappeared to? There were no cafés around … the buildings themselves were not open to visitors … the few unobtrusive shops were still closed. I had read that the perimeter walk took just 10 minutes, so perhaps they had come, walked, and left. We weren’t amongst the fast strollers … it took us a good 60 minutes to return to the ferry landing.

    A couple of boats came and went, but they were heading from the island to other towns along the shoreline. Sitting under a tree as we waited for the boat back to Orta, we enjoyed the sound of the waves gently coming ashore … entertained by small birds bathing in the water and searching out goodies the receding waves might have left behind.    Baca lagi

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    Starting the day with a bit of writing on the balcony ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Cup of coffee anyone? ... Casa Longhi — Casa San Giulio, Italy.After-breakfast balcony time @ Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Peaceful

    30 Julai, Itali ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Up at 6:00a. Finished the laundry. Then sat out on the balcony and did some writing.

    Comfortably crisp morning temperature; dew on the grass in the courtyard; barely audible piano melodies from one of the nearby houses … someone practicing perhaps; birds chirping unseen; carts rolling on the cobblestone streets and alleys every once in a while … perhaps carrying goods to nearby establishments; an early-morning stroller or two; church bells tolling the time. Very peaceful. So nice, in fact, that I didn’t even mind the overcast skies.

    When breakfast was ready, I joined Mui inside … worried that the bees gathering nectar from the flowers might not give us peace after we brought out the food. Afterward, I went back up to the balcony to relax with a cup of hot tea … Mui joining me with his cup of coffee.

    It was definitely best to make the most of our outdoor space this morning since the balcony is in the sun from about mid-afternoon until about 7:30p.

    If we had more days in Orta after today, we probably would have stayed home most of the day. As it is, it was soon time to go off and do some sightseeing.    Baca lagi

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