Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

📍 Italy Read more

Follow Message Statistics

Italy: Ciao Bella
Graphic Japan
Yesterday in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F
Today, we left Italy for Japan … at least for an hour or so!

When Mui bought our Card Culturas from the Bologna Welcome Center several weeks ago, he was given a packet of brochures. Among them was a postcard promoting a temporary exhibition … “Graphic Japan: from Hokusai to Manga” … installed at the Museum of Archaeology.

While the Card Cultura gives us free admission to the museum, temporary exhibits are not covered. We did get a €2 discount on the 65+ admission, reducing the hit to our wallet to €12pp.

The exhibition is described as “…visually chronicling the fundamental stages of Japanese graphic design, journeying from the Edo period (1603-1868) to the present day. … It explores the reasons behind the global success of Japanese graphic art, from ukiyo-e prints (images of the "Floating World") to contemporary posters and manga. …”

The exhibition, which consists of 200+ works that are on loan, is divided into four themes … nature, figures, sign, and contemporary Japonism. Through the various works, the exhibition tells “… a rich story of the evolution of Japanese graphics, showcasing its connection to calligraphy, typography, design, fashion, and even film. The exhibition highlights key artists and themes from different eras, showing how techniques and subjects have changed while maintaining the recognizable visual essence of Japanese culture.”

When we decided to check out the exhibition, which ends on 6 April, we didn’t know exactly what to expect. The art on the walls and the display cases exceeded our expectations and we really enjoyed ourselves. Mui even got some inspiration for his own artistic endeavors.

We wrapped up our outing with lunch at Trattoria La Corte Galluzzi … located in an inner courtyard that is first mentioned in a document from 1288. Delicious tagliatelle al ragù; a Cabernet Sauvignon that our palates enjoyed. Dessert was so-so, however, so when we return, we’ll skip a sweet treat there for some gelato elsewhere.

*** Card Cultura Update … with the €2 discount on admission, I have €13 left to break even.Read more
TravelerGREAT art!
19hReply
6 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
$Dining room ... refractory stone and masonry stove with decorations in relief — Casa Carducci.$
Casa Carducci
March 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
As I mentioned in the previous footprint, the Museo Civico del Risorgimento is housed on the ground floor of Casa Carducci. On the first floor above, is the apartment where the Carducci family lived.

Before leaving the museum, I asked if I could take a look at the apartment … included in my free admission. No problem. With another explanatory booklet in hand, I was escorted upstairs by one of the employees.

Casa Carducci dates back to the 16th century. It was built as a church, and before that, as an oratory. In 1712, the place of worship was destroyed by a fire and subsequently rebuilt. Following the Napoleonic occupation at the end of the 18th century, it was sold to wealthy merchants, who expanded the building. The house owes its current form to that expansion work. Carducci and his wife lived here from 1890 to 1907, when Giosuè died.

Carducci’s book collection is behind glass-fronted bookcases, but everything else in the apartment is out in the open. No surprise then that the escort dogged my footsteps from room to room. She had her own booklet and used it to identify and read about the many objects on display, while I did the same … taking time to photograph some of the items … including the Nobel certificate Carducci received for literature … the news of which was given to him in the study by the Swedish Ambassador.

While there is electricity in the apartment, the light is dim. It made taking photos challenging, but I managed to click the shutter on the phone enough times to have a collection of images to share here.Read more
7 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
Museo Civico del Risorgimento di Bologna
March 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F
We went our separate ways this morning … meeting up for lunch at Il Duca di Amalfi for a quick bite following our individual outings.

Mui headed to Casalecchio to run some errands. Namely, to get materials to put up insect screens. The use of such screens doesn’t seem to be prevalent in Italy … at least around the Centro Storico of Bologna. We have neither a balcony nor a terrace at the apartment, and like to open the windows to ‘bring the outside in’ …. get some fresh air. Hence, a home improvement project for Mui. The screen material is easy enough to cut to size and tack up with a strip designed for that purpose. Two windows down … three or more to go.

In the meantime, I headed out to a museum that Mui showed little interest in visiting.

The word Risorgimento literally translates as resurgence or rising again. This civic museum, which was inaugurated in 1893, focuses on the 19th century political and social movement that resulted in the Unification of Italy.

It was founded to (1) instill “… patriotic ideals in the general public, and particularly in the younger generations;” and (2) “… promote historical research on the recent past …”. To accomplish the latter, a library was founded in 1904, but is housed elsewhere in the city.

The museum covers the time frame from the Napoleonic Age through WWI … the latter considered the conclusion of the Italian unification process. The exhibits in the display cases are accordingly laid out, with the periods in between covering European Restoration, Italian Unification, and United Italy.

Currently, the museum’s exhibit space is housed on the ground floor of Casa Carducci … a national monument that was once the home of writer/poet Giosuè Carducci.

A 20-25 minute walk on a very pleasant day brought me from the apartment to the museum, where I presented my Card Cultura to receive free admission. During the entire time I was there, I had the place to myself. I didn’t mind that at all 😉.

There is little to read at the museum … except for some proclamations, leaflets, declarations, and such. I imagine most of the written material is in the library. I would categorize the museum more as an exhibit of artifacts, of which just a small portion of the museum’s collection is on display.

There is no signage … just numbers identifying the items in each case. No worries. I was given a booklet that allowed me to match items with descriptions. My booklet was in English, but I imagine they have them in other languages as well. Having the place to myself allowed me to take my time viewing, identifying, and photographing some of the exhibited items. The latter was a challenge since all but a few were in glass display cases, but I did my best.

P.S Saved another €3 (65+ admission) … leaving me with €12 to break even on my Card Cultura purchase.Read more
8 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
2 2 2
Reggio Emilia: A Day Trip from Bologna
March 25 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F
Our days of waking up at the crack of dawn to get ready and rush off to go sightseeing are long over. These days, we’re more relaxed about exploring.

That said, we are realizing that if we are going on a day trip — especially somewhere less tourist-oriented — we need to consider picking up the pace at home and not dally too much. Maybe just grabbing a cappuccino and cornetto from a pasticceria instead of having a sit down breakfast at home would help.

You see, there’s this thing called siesta here, and sometimes that adversely impacts our plans. That was the case today. In our defense, when we checked the hours of operation for a few of the sites at our destination, there was no indication of siesta closures.

Regardless, we had a great time in Reggio Emilia … a less touristy charming city and the birthplace of the Italian Tricolor flag. But we had to switch our plans around a bit and focus more on a stroll and lunch than visiting specific places.

Leaving the apartment around 10:30a, we hopped on a bus to get to Bologna Centrale … a test run, if you will, to see how the bus system works … paying for our tickets by tapping with Apple Pay. While some buses turn into the train station to drop off passengers, this one left us across the street.

Once in the station, we purchased our tickets for the 11:35a train, opting to pay for the slightly more expensive InterCity train to save time … €10pp … Reggio Emilio the second stop on the line. We arrived at our destination about 25 minutes ahead of schedule. Not sure how that happened, but no complaints.

A meandering 20-minute walk to Centro Storico — as per Google Maps — took a bit longer since we stopped for a few photos along the way. Eventually, we arrived at Piazza Prampolini … in the heart of the historic center. The square was hopping with a market that was doing a bustling business selling clothing, household linens, and the like.

This square is overlooked by the Duomo … Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta; the clock tower, and the city hall … which is also where one finds the Tricolor Hall. We only had a chance to go inside the cathedral, which was built in 857 and modified several times over the centuries.

I was really hoping to see the 4th century Roman mosaic floor that was discovered under the Duomo, but we were barely inside when the caretaker began locking the doors. He was nice enough to give me a chance to run around and take a few photos, and might have allowed me to see the mosaic floor as well, but I didn’t want to take advantage of his kindness.

After wandering around the market and taking photos of the clock tower at the far end of the piazza, we walked through the Broletto Passage to Piazza di S. Prospero … behind the cathedral and overlooked by the basilica for which the square is named.

Spotting tables set up in the square, we decided to check it out for lunch. The prices were in line with what we’ve seen at places that cater to the locals and the menu looked good. Although it was a little cool in the shade, we opted to sit in the square and combine our meal with people watching.

Sipping a glass of Lambrusco, a regional sparkling wine made with black grapes, we perused the menu — €13 for a main course, water … plain or fizzy, coffee or dessert. I ordered the spinach tortellini served with sage butter; Mui ordered a platter of cold cuts accompanied by Stracchio (Italian cream cheese, if you will) and warm tigelle (small round flatbreads … originally from Modena). Dessert — rice cake, a local specialty, and a lemon cake — wrapped up our tasty lunch.

After our meal break, we strolled around the historic center, burning off some of the calories from lunch and continuing to explore the city. We window-shopped, got lost in narrow side streets, and peeked into a couple of churches where we found the doors open. Eventually, taking a meandering route back, we returned to the train station for the 3:35p regional train back to Bologna … a few more stops than our train this morning; a 45-minute ride; €7pp.

From the train station, we hopped on a bus that took us close to Piazza Maggiore where we went to Windtre, our Italian cell service provider, to renew our monthly plan. And then a slow stroll to the apartment where we put up our feet for a quiet evening at home.

Another great day of exploring what the region offers … even if we had to jiggle our plans a bit.Read more
TravelerLoving all the day trips mixed in with exploring locally!
5dReply
Two to TravelThat’s the plan … before we begin exploring farther afield.
5dReply
Traveler Lovely contrasts and composition.
5dReply
Two to TravelThank you, Bill.
4dReply
9 more comments
10 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
Museo Intl. e Biblioteca della Musica
March 22 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F
The International Museum and Library of Music … our destination when we left the house this morning.

I’ll be honest … it wasn’t the musical instruments on display that drew me to the museum. Rather, it was a couple of photos showing the setting in which the items are exhibited … rooms decorated with frescos. That said, I came away after our visit with an appreciation for more than just the frescos.

We arrived at Palazzo Sanguinetti, the 16th century palace in which the museum is housed … since 2004. The frescos, as I understand it, were restored after the building was donated to the city. The original paintings date back to the 18th-19th century and are representative of the city’s Napoleonic and Neoclassical period.

Stopping by the ticket office first, we showed our card culturas and received our free admission tickets … saved €3 each … 65+ rate.

Our steps then took us toward the courtyard, which seemed very familiar. Ah yes, it was the feature photo in the New York Times article our friend Kadi sent us a few weeks ago … a trompe-l’oeil fresco fronted by a green space … visible at the end of an arched portico.

Selfie taken, we headed up the amazing monumental staircase to the museum itself … on the piano nobile … aka the floor on which the principal rooms of the palazzo are located. Showing our tickets to the attendant at the desk, we then went on a DIY tour through the nine rooms that make up the museum.

It is to Father Gianbattista Martini that Bologna owes its music collection as it was the padre’s own collection that formed the nucleus around which it all grew. Described as “… one of the most illustrious and complex personalities” of the 18th century music world of Europe, he was not only a scholar, historian, and composer, he was one of the best music teachers in Europe. Counting Bach and Mozart amongst his many famous students, this “Father of all Masters” was also an avid collector … manuscripts, opera librettos, autographs and letters, effigies of musicians, and more.

The first room we entered — the Sala alla Boschereccia — set in motion a lot of WOW moments where we studied what was in the display cases, as well as on the walls and ceilings. Being careful so as not to crane my head too far back, and thus trigger a vertigo episode, I wasn’t able to check out all the fresco details to my satisfaction … but that’s just something I have to get used to.

Each room of the museum has a theme, if you will. Rooms 2 and 3 are dedicated to Father Martini … not surprising. The themes continue with the idea of music; and operas, manuscripts, and instruments … segregated by centuries; and musicians such as Farinelli and Rossini.

Another fantastic museum experience in Bologna. As has been the case with all of our museum visits so far, this one was of an exploratory nature. I look forward to returning for a more in depth visit, and also to check out the music library (across the hall from the museum) … there are more frescos there that are calling my name.

So, if I came away with an appreciation for more than just the frescos, you might ask why there are so few photos of the instruments, music scores and librettos, and portraits of the greats of classical music in this footprint. Alas, with a few exceptions, the instruments were all inside glass cases … as was the written material … too much glare to get decent photos. As for the portraits, this time they did take a back seat to the frescos.

P.S. We now have €18pp to go to break even on our €25pp Card Cultura purchase.Read more
TravelerI can imagine that restoration of frescoes is a very challenging occupation. Beautiful.
5dReply
Two to TravelI’m glad they put so much work into restoring them.
4dReply
11 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
2
Street Photography
March 22 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F
We left the apartment this morning with a specific destination in mind.

We made it there, no worries.

But I’ll share that story and the images from that part of our day in another footprint.

I keep telling myself to keep the phone in my pocket when we are heading somewhere so that I am not tempted to take photos. I inevitably fail. Bologna just has so many interesting things that catch my eye.

On today’s wander, we came across a flea market in Piazza Santo Stefano; found the door to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher open — part of Basilica Santuario di Santo Stefano (aka the Seven Churches) — and checked out a chapel on a hall that was behind a locked door when we visited last fall; walked by the the first Maserati workshop … a museum of sorts that is currently closed; spied all kinds of interesting doors and antique knockers; window shopped at sweets shops that are colorfully decorated in anticipation of Easter; caught glimpses of Torre degli Asinelli — one of the two leaning towers of Bologna — peeking above buildings lining narrow streets; and even strolled through the all but deserted Galleria Cavour … with its budget-buster brand shops.

A delightful stroll to be sure.Read more
TravelerSounds like you both are enjoying Bologna!!!
1wReply
Two to TravelWe are … even more so since we are more or less settled.
1wReply
Sonia GelmanMui looks good. Glad to enjoying Italy. Many more places to explore.
1wReply
Two to TravelYes … just getting started.
1wReply
6 more comments
13 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
1
Pizza & Gelato
March 21 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
After doing chores all day yesterday, and spending much of today working on projects while we waited for an Amazon delivery, we decided to wrap up our day by treating ourselves to pizza and gelato.

Weekends tend to find Bologna’s Centro Storico crowded with visitors from far and wide. Today was no exception … groups of scouts, both boys and girls, adding quite a bit to the numbers enjoying the evening. Wading through the crowds on our way out, we returned to the apartment later by way of quieter side streets.

An early dinner at Pizzeria Nettuno was our primary goal … very good as usual. Followed by a sweet treat from Gelateria Gianni … near the Due Torri, the two leaning towers that are iconic landmarks of Bologna … Garisenda and Asinelli.

We discovered the renowned gelateria last fall. Established in the mid-1970s, it is billed as a “… historic artisan gelateria known for its traditional Bolognese gelato.” That being the case, I’m not sure why they use open bins to display their gelato. After all, high-quality gelato is stored in metal canisters with lids … to protect the product from light, air, and temperature fluctuations. At least, I’ve never seen ‘fluffy gelato mountains’ in the display cases. Nonetheless, we enjoy an occasional cone or two of the interesting flavors on the shop’s menu.

By the way, Gianni’s fame is about to grow further. It was one of the two gelaterias recommended in a recent New York Times article about Bologna. (Thanks for the article, Kadi.)

P.S. The second gelateria mentioned in the article was Sorbetteria Castiglione. We passed by it on our way back from Giardini Margherita earlier this week. Would have checked it out, but the shop was closed. We’ll try again another time.

P.P.S. Yes, Garisenda and Asinelli are both leaning towers, the former more so than the latter. I really was too close for a proper photo this evening … so, forgive the very odd angles in the image included with this footprint. I promise there will be better ones in future footprints.Read more
TravelerThere is no better gelato than that in Italy! 🍨
1wReply
Two to TravelAnd Bologna happens to be the “modern capital of gelato” and is considered the best city to experience authentic gelato. There’s even a museum dedicated to this delicacy here.
1wReply
TravelerThat’s it. I’m moving!
1wReply
Two to Travel😄
1wReply
TravelerIf you do, then we will have two couples to visit! 😁
1wReply
Two to Travel😄
1wReply
3 more comments
12 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
Stroll to Giardini Margherita
March 19 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F
A few days ago, we saw a photo of trees laden with pale pink spring blooms. It was taken at Giardini Margherita. Today, with the sun shining bright and the temp promising to be warmer than yesterday, we took a stroll to the gardens — more like a park really — to check them out for ourselves.

We first visited the gardens, a favorite of the Bolognese, when we were here last October. It was a Sunday, and this green space in the city was crowded with families, couples young and old, and groups of friends enjoying the beautiful fall day.

Today being a weekday, the gardens were quieter. Older couples strolling quiet paths, solo runners and bikers, an occasional nanny or young mom pushing a pram. It was a lovely, quiet setting amidst the hub-bub of the city. Alas, the trees were not filled with blooms as we expected … yesterday’s wind and cold temps must have taken their toll.

No matter, we still enjoyed our visit … and walking along streets that we weren’t familiar with to get there and back gave us an opportunity to get to know our city a bit more. It was a nice change of pace from the errands and chores that are an essential part of daily life, regardless of where one lives.

P.S. Sorry … no photos of the grounds at Giardini Margherita. Having taken those photos last fall, I neglected to do so this time. I’m sure we’ll go back at some point … I’ll try to remember to rectify the oversight then.Read more
TravelerI see gelato in your future for breakfast, lunch and dinner come festival time!
1wReply
Two to TravelYou just might be right 😋😉
1wReply
13 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
2
Modena: Duomo
March 14 in Italy
From the Palazzo Comunale, we walked over to the Duomo di Modena … the cathedral for which the foundation stone was laid in 1099 … and where the funeral of Luciano Pavarotti, a favorite son of the city, was held in 2006.

Together with the Ghirlandina Tower and the Piazza Grande, the Duomo is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and Saint Geminianus, Modena’s patron saint. The discovery that Geminianus was buried under a church already on the site led to that church being torn down and replaced by today’s grand edifice.

Tradition has it that the Romanesque style that the architect, Lanfranco, chose for the Duomo came to him as a divine inspiration. True or not, it is generally accepted that the construction of the Duomo in this style was the forerunner for the Romanesque art that subsequently flourished.

We entered through the Porta Regia, the monumental entrance that overlooks Piazza Grande. Noticing a staircase to our right, we decided to go up first. Turns out that the stairs accessed the presbytery … admission charged … €3pp. The young woman at the ticket desk explained that the ticket also serves as a voucher for a discount to the cathedral museums. As the voucher is not date-specific, we opted to use it when we return to Modena another time.

The chapels and central apse upstairs were quite interesting. In many ways, the paintings and mosaic work reminded me of Byzantine churches. From the pier that connects the two side aisles, we were able to look down the length of the cathedral below, with an interesting rose window at the far end … different from the ones we’ve seen before.

The Sacristy, also on the upper level, is where one finds the reliquary arm of Saint Geminianus. It is thought that Pope Lucius III took a fragment of the saint’s arm when his tomb was opened in 1184. The reliquary is behind an embossed silver panel in the Sacristy … which is what we saw. The actual reliquary is brought out only on specific occasions.

Under the raised presbytery is the crypt with the sepulcher of Saint Geminianus. Unlike other crypt’s we have visited that are under the church, this one is on the same level as the nave.

After a brief visit to the crypt, we wandered around the rest of the Duomo, stopping to check out the sculptures holding up some of the columns of the pier; the details of the Campione ambo, which dates back to the 13th century; the parapet of the pier, which is decorated with bas-relief scenes from the Passion of Christ … the Last Supper prominently in the center; the 16th century terracotta Nativity; the marble baptismal font that sits in front of a 15th century fresco in the Bellincini Chapel; the 14th century wooden statue of Saint Geminianus … encased in a glass cabinet; and the Altar of Statuettes from the 15th century; and so much more.

Though one would not necessarily call us ‘religious’, before we left the Duomo, Mui lit a candle and we said a prayer for family and friends.

The Duomo of Modena is definitely deserving of its UNESCO-listing. There are so many details for one to search out … a guided tour might have to go on our ‘do-on-our-return list’ for Modena.Read more
Traveler Bruce and I LOVE this photo! He took a photography class recently and he had a composition assignment for a frame within a frame but finding worthy subjects is difficult where we live but certainly not where you live now!
2wReply
Two to TravelI love to frame when I get a chance … takes time to do so, but so worth it.
2wReply
TravelerErin, you know how much I treasure your wonderful photography. Especially your skill at the interiors of churches and cathedrals. I sometimes wonder how long it would take living in Italy to take for granted the magnificent arts architecture sculpture and beauty of the country for granted
2wReply
Two to TravelA very long time, I imagine. Even re-visiting places we’ve been to before, it is awe inspiring.
2wReply
11 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
Modena: Palazzo Comunale
March 14 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F
The Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall/Municipal Palace) is a complex that consists of a number 17th century buildings. At the time, each building served a different function.

When we decided to detour to the palazzo, it was because we were looking for a higher vantage point to photograph the Duomo. We didn’t find a terrace with a view of Piazza Grande. But we hit the jackpot with a series of historical rooms, some of which were decorated with frescos and paintings.

The Palazzo is open from 1:00p to 3:00p on Saturdays. We found that out after the fact, however. And technically, reservations are required for the free DIY tour. Oooops! In our defense, the clerk who saw us wandering around the rooms at 11:30a said nothing to us. At least we were well within the 32 minutes visitors are allowed for their visit.

Doing a bit of research on the palazzo after we got home, I found a virtual tour (https://salestoriche.unesco.modena.it/en/) that gave me a hint of why we were perhaps ‘under the radar’ during our visit. We didn’t enter through the corridor to the building. Rather, once a bride and groom, who had just tied the knot, came down a set of stairs overlooking the piazza, we used the same staircase to go up … being careful not to slip on the rice the wedding party had thrown at the pair.

The staircase led us to the entrance to the historic halls. The first room was the Camerino dei Confirmati (Chamber of the Confirmed) … once a small loggia that overlooked the palace of the Marquis d’Este.

Branching off to the right from here was the Sala del Fuoco (Hall of the Fire), thought to have been named for the large fireplace where embers were kept hot for the peddlers in the square. Frescoes rimming the walls tell the story of the Siege of Modena (63-42 BC).

Crossing back to the Chamber of the Confirmed, we found ourselves walking through a series of rooms that branch off from the left. First was the Sala del Vecchio Consiglio (Hall of the Old Council) … where the municipal council met in the 17th century. The vault of the chamber features paintings celebrating patriotism and the virtues of good governance.

This room led to the Sala Degli Arazzi (Hall of the Tapestries). Instead of woven tapestries, however, here we found painted imitations by Vannulli of invaluable tapestries that depict scenes from the Peace of Constance and celebrate the role Modena played in the Lombard League events.

What is referred to as the Sala dei Matrimoni (Hall of Weddings) was the last room we explored. The room, which was formerly used as an archive, was more simply decorated with portraits and paintings on the walls that “… represent an ideal gallery of 19th century Modanese figures.”

Spotting a courtyard and a grand wrought iron gate, we left the palazzo via a different staircase … too many posters on the gate to photograph it, but we were rewarded with a statue of Perseus to wrap up our visit.

I would love to return to the Palazzo Comunale with my long lens to photograph some of the fresco details. When we do so, we’ll make sure to make a reservation!Read more
Sonia GelmanIt’s wonderful. Now you can really take time to absorb all the details.
2wReply
Two to TravelExactly what our plan is.
2wReply
TravelerEven without your long lens, you got some great photos!
2wReply
Two to TravelThank you. 😊
2wReply
10 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
4
Modena: A Day Trip from Bologna
March 14 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
When we were in Bologna last fall, we went on two day trips — by train … to Ferrara and to Rimini. Today it was Modena’s turn.

Like the previous two day trips, today’s outing was of an exploratory nature … just to see what the place has to offer before we return for a longer visit.

Modena, roughly northwest of Bologna, is 31 minutes by train. Well, technically, it would take 20 minutes to get there if you take the Freccerossa … the fast train. We didn’t think, however, that it was worth paying €34 (one way) for the two of us just to shave 11 minutes off the ride. Instead, we bought TTPER regional train tickets for €9 each way for the two of us.

Shortly before 11:00a, we detrained at Modena Centrale … a short walk from Modena’s Centro Storico. The sun was out; the temperature comfortable; the walk pleasant along streets lined with colorful buildings.

Soon, we were in Piazza Roma, which is overlooked by Palazzo Ducale. The grand edifice, once the residence of the Estense Court and one of the most important royal palazzos of the 17th century, now houses the Italian Military Academy.

From Piazza Roma, we walked along side streets … unsurprisingly, quiet even on a Saturday since the tourist season is not yet in full swing. Most of the people we encountered were families out to enjoy the day. A quick peek inside Chiesa di San Giorgio, and then we continued to Piazza Grande, the very heart of Centro Storico.

Everything we read said that the Duomo (cathedral) should be our first stop. That was indeed our intention. However, thinking that there might be a better vantage point to photograph the Duomo from a terrace at the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall Municipal Palace), we decided a detour was in order.

What we thought would be a quick stop at the Palazzo Comunale, turned into a visit of the rooms open to the public … and deserves its own footprint. As does our next stop, the Duomo. Thus, moving on.

Mui really enjoys visiting markets, so our steps next took us to Mercato Storico Albinelli (Historic Albinelli Market). This covered market — with beautiful wrought ironwork on the façade overlooking Via Albinelli — was built in 1931. Constructed in the Liberty style, it houses the market that used to be held in Piazza Grande. A beautiful fountain in the center; several aisles of stalls filled with fresh and colorful produce, meats, cheeses, fish, and more … a great place to not just visit, but shop as well … though we didn’t do so today.

It was getting on towards 1:30p when we left the market and headed to Emilia Bistrò on Piazza Roma for our lunch reservation. The place was packed when we arrived … glad we booked ahead ... especially since the kitchen was due to close at 2:30p. Despite its location on a popular square, the place oozed ‘local’ charm. In fact, we didn’t hear anything but Italian being spoken.

Seated at a two-top, we enjoyed a delicious meal accompanied by a glass of wine. Opting to start with an antipasti, we ordered the fried zucchini flowers, served with a citrus mayo. I ordered just a primi piatti as I am wont to do … in this case, hand-made tortellini in a capon broth; Mui got the braised beef cheek with balsamic pearl onions and julienned artichokes + a side of grilled vegetables … zucchini and eggplant. We wrapped up with what the server described as a Modena chocolate cake served on a bed of mascarpone cream. Yummy!

It was getting on towards 3:00p when we left Emilia Bistrò. The temperature, which we had noticed earlier had cooled down from this morning, was now downright chilly. We put on our puffy jackets and headed to the train station for the return trip to Bologna.

Although we arrived with five minutes to spare before the 3:06p train was scheduled to depart, the app would not let us buy tickets for it. Knowing that tickets purchased on the app can be changed until the train departs, we quickly bought tickets for the next train leaving in ½-hour and immediately changed the time to the 3:06p train. Worked like a charm.

An uneventful train ride to Bologna … a walk on quiet backstreets from Bologna Centrale to the apartment … time to put up our feet and rest.

We really enjoyed our exploratory day trip to Modena and look forward to returning … maybe do a balsamic tasting tour … or visit the Ferrari Factory nearby … or check out the museums.Read more
Traveler Does€€€ mean a Mille of euros? (jon)
2wReply
Two to TravelTry €129 for that small bottle of the 25+ year old! 😉
2wReply
TravelerJon again…. Hohum… im guessing you bought a case of it … gifts for the poor folk in colorado? We’re still planning to visit the dau in Europe but don’t have firm dates… & our nephew is in France these days too so we’ll have to visit there too! Geez - so many places so little time… today we woke up to a surprise snow storm!!!! Be well friends!!
2wReply
Two to TravelLooking forward to whenever you visit … just give us some advance warning. You sound like you are doing well post-surgery. as for the balsamic … ohh we bought whole cases of them for the ‘poor folk’ in COS! 😄
2wReply
TravelerEverything looks lovely and delicious!
2wReply
11 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
I Conoscenti Cocktail e Cucina
March 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F
We left Museo Civico Medievale at 2:30p. Time for a late lunch.

With most kitchens at dining establishments that cater mostly to the locals either closed or about to close for siesta, our options were limited. As luck would have it, “I Conoscenti” (The Acquaintances) — just down the portico from the museum — closed at 3:00p, so we didn’t have to go far for our first lunch out in Bologna since arriving on the 25th.

The place lives up to its name. We were greeted as though we were long time acquaintances. We enjoyed the ambiance of the place … small, intimate, friendly, and hospitable.

Arriving at an odd hour pretty much guaranteed that the place would be fairly deserted. The only other table that was occupied had a foursome who were enjoying a lengthy chat … they were still there when we left an hour later.

While the host spoke English, the daily menu was in Italian only … the list of dishes short and sweet Great; not a touristy place.

We ordered two glasses of a red from the Emilia-Romagna Region … made with Sangiovese grapes, and took our time perusing the menu.

We both opted for dishes from the primi piatti section of the menu — lasagna alla Bolognese for me … a premier specialty of Bologna, and often served on Sundays, it was creamy and delicious; tortellini in a cheese sauce made with Parmigiano aged for 24-month for Mui … also delicious. I don’t recall the name or the description of the dessert we ordered, but it came sort of deconstructed … a warm, flaky pastry and a side of chocolate gelato, which melted into a creamy sauce when we combined the two. Our sweet treat was gone in no time.

We will definitely return to I Conoscenti.

The upcoming week is choc-a-bloc with deliveries … some of which are ‘assembly-required’. No matter, soon enough we’ll be settled and enjoying what the city and the country has to offer.Read more
TravelerThe food sounds wonderful.... and good luck with the assembly!
3wReply
Two to TravelThanks. Luckily, we are experienced 😊
3wReply
15 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
Museo Civico Medievale
March 8 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F
Amazon delivered today’s packages just before noon. That meant that we could go out and do something fun this afternoon.

Earlier this week, Mui stopped by the Welcome Bologna office on Piazza Maggiore to buy a Card Cultura for each of us. We learned about these cards when we were here last fall. €25 each for a card that is good for 12 months. It gives us free, unlimited admissions to several museums in the city and the metropolitan area. As well, there are a number of places where we get reduced admission to attractions and exhibits, cinemas and theaters, festivals and music seasons, and guided tours.

We got to use our cards for the first time today, saving €4 (65+ admission) to check out the Bologna’s Medieval Museum [MCM]. We each have €21 left now to break even. No worries; we’ll be ahead of the game soon enough.

Arriving at the museum, we stopped by the ticket office to show our cards and receive our free admission tickets. We then proceeded inside. As we moved through different parts of the museum, we were asked to show the ticket. I imagine they do this because anyone who enters the courtyard could sneak into parts of the museum easily enough.

The MCM is housed in what was once the Palazzo Ghisilardi, one of the most important buildings from the period between 1446-1506 … when the Bentivoglio family pretty much ruled Bologna as de facto lords and tyrants. The palazzo was later acquired by the Fava family … hence it is known also as the Palazzo Ghisilardi-Fava.

Exhibited at the museum are several private collections. The most important of these give visitors a sense of life in medieval Bologna. The eclectic collections are displayed in 24 rooms, artifacts ranging from sepulchral monuments to bronze sculptures, from illuminated texts to weaponry, from glassware to ivory marquetry boxes, from reliquaries to ceramics, and much more.

While the labels identifying the items are in Italian, in every room we found laminated info cards in English … identifying some of the highlights. For this first visit, we focused on those items. There’s still much to see, so I am sure we will return another day to browse more slowly.

While I was wrapping up at the museum, Mui went off to grab a coffee from a nearby café. While he was gone, I continued on to the first monographic Bartolomeo Cesi exhibition … “Paintings of Silence in the Age of the Carracci.” Part of the Jubilee 2025 program, the exhibit focuses on “… his unique, meditative approach to religious art, standing in contrast to the naturalism of the Carracci Brothers.”

The brochure describes Cesi as being well known in Academic circles … not so much amongst the general population. Certainly, had we not visited the Farnese Chapel at Palazzo d’Accursio last fall and gone into the antechamber, we would not have been familiar with his name either.

This particular exhibit is rather small … just 30 pieces … from monumental altarpieces to paintings, portraits, and drawings. They date to the period between the 16th and 17th centuries. I was a little disappointed that there were no frescos, but it was interesting to see Cesi’s paintings and understand why efforts are underway to restore his role in Bologna’s artistic history.

Time for lunch …Read more
10 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
A Week and Three Days
March 7 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F
That is how long it’s been since we stepped off the plane at BLQ.

We’re continuing to work diligently on getting settled … going out for a coffee or gelato run once in a while to get a breather from work. We expect that once the IKEA big-box delivery arrives next week, we’ll be pretty much done.

In the meantime, the smaller orders began trickling in this week. We were especially happy with how quickly the Media World purchases arrived as included in that delivery was a vacuum cleaner and an iron … essential appliances for completing some of our household chores.

Amazon worked like a charm, too. We’re keeping all but two items … which we will be sending back using one of the several return options provided.

As for chores. There were a-plenty.

The floor lamp we ordered through Amazon required assembly. Easy enough to do … and described by Mui as a “practice run” for all the assembly work we will be doing when the IKEA big-box order is delivered on Tuesday.

We installed electrostatic privacy panels on the lower half of the kitchen windows, and put up some curtains to close off the laundry area. With nearly 10-foot ceilings, we needed a tall ladder for the latter project. Luckily, the building has one that is available for tenants to borrow … one less thing to buy.

A return trip to the shops in Casalecchio di Reno was required to wrap up our shopping spree. We took the opportunity to have a tasty lunch at Dispensa Emilia, one of the eateries at the mall that had long queues for dinner when we were at the Gran Reno Mall last week.

Some of the repairs on our punch list have also been completed — the cracked expansion vessel for the combo boiler has been replaced … amid a lot of cussing in Italian as the guy was working in a very tight space; the two rolling shutters that were stuck are now operational. Once the painters come and go on Monday, the punch list will be completed.

We have another Amazon delivery scheduled for tomorrow. If it comes early enough, we might be able to go out and do some sightseeing … 🤞🏻. That will give us something fun to report for a change.Read more
9 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
2
PdiS & A 20,061-Step Shopping Spree
March 2 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F
(PdiS = Permesso di Soggiorno)

Busy day with lots of steps.

First up — a most important errand that we are required to complete within 8 days of arriving Italy … applying for the “Permesso di Soggiorno” (residence permit) … not to be confused with registering our residence, which is a whole different thing we have to do after we receive our PdiS.

We submitted our packages this morning at the designated post office — Piazza Minghetti … a short walk from the apartment. The postal clerk reviewed our forms, collected the additional paperwork and the fee, and sealed everything inside the government-provided envelope, which will go to Rome before being re-directed to Bologna for action.

The clerk also gave us our appointments for the in-person-interviews with the Questura (the provincial headquarters of the state police). Alas, we have to wait until mid-June for that step … earlier appointment slots already taken.

That done, we used the Trenitalia app to buy tickets for the train to Casalecchio di Reno … €1.50 pp each way. We had a bit of time to kill, so on our way to Bologna Centrale we stopped at L’Incontro for a coffee break.

The train ride to Casalecchio’s Palasport stop is about 15 minutes long. From the siding platform where passengers detrain, it is a 5 minute walk to the Gran Reno Mall; IKEA and Leroy Merlin (the local Home Depot, if you will) are about the same distance as well.

Our shopping trip was a success. Having done our research in advance, each stop we made was primarily to “touch and feel” and make sure our selections were satisfactory.

At Media World, we placed the appliance order on the app … delivery scheduled for tomorrow.

At IKEA, we confirmed that the items we had taken photos of last fall were still available, and that they still suited our needs. We added a few items; removed a few items; filled our shopping cart with the smaller items; placed an order for the big-box items … delivery scheduled for 10 March.

At Leroy Merlin, we were in and out rather quickly. Both because we were shopped-out, but also because for this shopping spree, we had just a few items to hand-carry from there. I did feel like a drum majorette carrying the curtain rod all the way home. Yes, I resisted twirling it and throwing it in the air like a baton!

We had just enough time before the 8:38p train back to Bologna to stop by the food court at the mall and pick up a piadina to share … a sandwich made with a thin flatbread that is from the Romagna region.

The train was 5 minutes late … so be it. By the way, if you buy your train tickets on the app, you don’t have to search for a validation machine on the platform… the tickets are validated automatically as soon as the train departs the station.

By 9:15p, having walked well-lit, nearly-deserted streets from Bologna Centrale to the apartment, we were more than ready to put up our feet.

With our Media World delivery scheduled for tomorrow, we’ll be home and not gallivanting about. Our feet will appreciate that.Read more
Sonia Gelman Mui looks like a local man
4wReply
Two to TravelThat’s the goal 😉
4wReply
TravelerI read Portugal is much less red tape than Italy when it comes to residency, Italians are way behind on the bureaucracy. I wish everything goes smoothly for you.
3wReply
Two to TravelAh yes … but then Mui’s dream of living in Italy would be dashed. Fingers crossed!
3wReply
13 more comments
13 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
Permesso di Soggiorno Modulo I
March 1 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F
With the help of an online cheat sheet in English, and Apple’s translate app, we managed to muddle through the first module of the ‘“permesso di soggiorno” (residency permit) application.

Whether we need to complete the second module remains to be seen. We don’t think so, but best to find out for sure before we submit the application package. The agent at the post office should be able to answer the question when we stop by to drop off the paperwork.

To celebrate the completion of our task, we went to our favorite gelateria in Bologna for a sweet treat.Read more
TravelerDee and I wanted to know how long you plan to live in Italy and how you decided to live in Bologna. Ciao!
3/1/26Reply
Two to TravelWe're starting with one year ... that's how long they give the initial elective residence visa for. And then you can renew. So, we'll see after one year whether we extend. As for why Bologna? We wanted somewhere in northern Italy; somewhere less touristy and crowded than Rome, Florence, or Venice; somewhere that had access to all the services for setting up residency; and also somewhere that was a good transportation hub (especially for trains). If we extend, we might move somewhere smaller, but we don't want to buy a car to get around, so that will be a consideration in making any future plans.
3/1/26Reply
TravelerMakes good sense. and sounds exciting and delicious too! Guess you gave up your Colorado residency?
3wReply
Two to TravelKeeping Colorado until we know for sure what our next steps will be.
3wReply
2 more comments
13 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
2
Starting to Settle In
February 27 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F
Nothing exciting to report.

Except perhaps that we arrived at the apartment on the 25th to find the boiler for the heat and hot water on the blink. Luckily the temps are mild at the moment. The tech came to fix it today, so we are nice and toasty tonight.

Anyway, I thought I’d put up a quick post so you don’t think we fell off the face of the earth.

As one might imagine, our first two days in Bologna have been filled with chores and errands … juggling apartment-cleaning and unpacking with shopping for essentials and getting Italian phone numbers.

One very important errand was stopping at the post office to pick-up the forms to apply for residency. Yeah … just because we have elective residence visas (ERVs) doesn’t mean that the paperwork requirements are over and done with. Anyway, we’ll submit the application on Monday and then wait to see how long it takes to complete this step.

After our chores today, we went out to price out things like a vacuum cleaner, iron, etc. As we were crossing Piazza Maggiore we noticed an inordinate number of people … and tents and marquees set up. Turns out they’re prepping for the Termal Bologna Marathon … a popular event that is expected to draw some 40,000+ people … runners and spectators. You can be sure I won’t be setting foot in that direction this weekend!

For dinner, we went to our favorite pizzeria … Nettuno … yummy!Read more
Traveler One of the best foods--a real Italian pizza!
2/28/26Reply
Two to TravelDefinitely our favorite here.
2/28/26Reply
TravelerI hope you get settled in very quickly and also that the paperwork is quickly resolved. Thanks for keeping us up to date on your adventures. 🙂
2/28/26Reply
Two to TravelRed tape is alive and well 🤔
3/1/26Reply
3 more comments
15 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
Welcome to Bologna
February 25 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 52 °F
Even before we deplaned at BLQ, I had a message from the Blacklane car service I had arranged. Having tracked our flight, the driver was advising us that he was already at the airport to pick us up.

Our checked bags were quick to show up on the baggage carousel … one after another. By 5:00p, we were on our way to meet the driver in the arrivals hall.

The drive into the city was uneventful … the rush hour traffic not hindering us in the least. By:6:00p, we were unloading the vehicle. With the management office closed for the day, the realtor had arranged for us to ring the doorbell of a neighbor to be let inside the building … the keys to the apartment itself under the doormat.

We have since unpacked the bag that held our ‘first night essentials’ … linens and comforters to make the bed … towels and daily meds … and so on. While I was unpacking, Mui went shopping for fixings for a light dinner at the apartment. He bought cleaning supplies as well … which we will put to good use before we unpack everything else.

The work of settling in can wait until tomorrow … and the next day … and the day after that … however long it takes.

In the meantime, having made it past 9:30p, it’s time to go to bed for a good night’s rest.Read more
TravelerSleep well. I have to remember the 9 hour difference
2/25/26Reply
Two to TravelGot a good night’s rest, thank you.
2/26/26Reply
TravelerWelcome to the continent, so happy to have you near us!
2/25/26Reply
Two to TravelHappy to be nearer, too 😊
2/26/26Reply
2 more comments
12 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
On Our Way: BRU to BLQ
February 25 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
Entering the Schengen Zone at BRU was a piece of cake. With no one else in line, the formalities took no time at all … just a four-finger print scan and a stamp in the passport.

Then it was just a matter of finding the Brussels Airlines’ Pop Up Loft Lounge to while away the time until the gate assignment for SN3125 showed up on the monitors as A48.

We left the lounge at 2:50p for the scheduled boarding. By the time we made our way to the gate, the process was all but completed. We pushed back 12 minutes early and were wheels up at 3:15p … ahead of schedule.

Uneventful flight … with scenic views of the Alps to entertain us during the meal service, which consisted of a wild rice salad topped with smoked salmon; warm pretzel bread; and a mini box of Belgian chocolates.

SN3125 landed at BLQ at 4:35p … 25 minutes ahead of schedule.

More later …Read more
TravelerWha0t a gorgeous view. So sad i won't see them in person
2/25/26Reply
Two to TravelYou never know 😉
2/26/26Reply
What a great adventure! Congratulations. [Susan Alton]
3wReply
9 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
On Our Way: LHR to BRU
February 25 in Belgium ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F
After an uneventful flight from DEN, UA27 landed at LHR a few minutes ahead of schedule. That was good news since we had what for us was a tight connection of 1 hour and 25 minutes.

Turns out that any concerns about making our Brussels Airlines connection to Brussels was for nought.

There was no immigration to contend with … just a security check point that was easy peasy … except that Mui had to remove his boots and put them through the scanner separately. And then it was just a matter of taking the elevator up one level, showing our boarding passes, and walking to our assigned gate.

Boarding for SN2094 began at 10:30a. A few minutes later, we were in our seats — 1A/1C … the middle seat left empty in what passes for business class on this airline. Looking around, I’m glad I opted for seats in the bulkhead row as we have a good amount of legroom … not the case in the other rows in this cabin.

Anyway, about 25 minutes after take off from LHR, we were wheels dry over the continent of Europe.

We landed at 12:57p local time … 15 minutes ahead of schedule.

More later …Read more
TravelerGREAT START!
2/25/26Reply
Sounds like a fantastic adventure! Wishing you best of luck and happy travels😊 [Mary O. Greenberg]
2/25/26Reply
Two to TravelThanks.
2/25/26Reply
2 more comments
10 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
On Our Way: DEN to LHR
February 24 in Canada ⋅ 🌫 -2 °F
We left the UA Club at 4:30p for the short walk to Gate B36.

Fifteen minutes later, we were boarding UA27 to London… the first of the three flights that will be taking us to Bologna.

Our flight left the gate on time at 5:35p … 25 minutes later we were wheels up. Bumpy climb out, but the turbulence smoothed out once we got to our cruising altitude.

This flight across “The Pond” to LHR is relatively short … as long haul flights go … a little over 8 hours. The cockpit announced that they expect to be on the ground at LHR at 9:12a GMT … 2:12a MST. That would gain us 25 minutes towards clearing any formalities and getting to our next flight.

Warm nuts and cocktails; dinner … with a crisp Italian white; and now dessert … a delicious ice cream sundae.

I’m watching the new Downtown Abbey movie … “The Grand Finale.” Once I finish the movie, I plan to sleep for what remains of the flight.

More later …Read more
Traveler48 FOOTPRINTS !!!! HAVE A GREAT ADVENTURE !!! "With age, comes wisdom. With travel, comes understanding"
2/25/26Reply
Two to TravelThanks … yeah, got caught up on the recon trip. Now to begin the expat adventure in earnest.
2/25/26Reply
9 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
At the United Club @ DEN
February 24 in the United States ⋅ 🌬 68 °F
At 11:27a, the wheels of the Lincoln Navigator Avis assigned us began turning as Mui backed out of the driveway.

There was no sign of the forecasted 60-80 mph wind gusts as we drove north to DEN. By 12:45p, we were pulling up to the West Terminal. Mui unloaded the bags and a United Airlines skycap brought over a cart to take them inside. While I dealt with the formalities, Mui went to return the rental vehicle. By 1:30p, he was back and we were ready to go through security.

We arrived at the airport earlier than usual in anticipation of potential delays at the TSA security checkpoints due to the FY2026 budget for DHS being held hostage by the legislators.

Our timing was good, however. As it was mid-day, we encountered no lines … none whatsoever. It took us seconds to go through the TSA Pre✓ lane, which was reinstated within hours of the announcement two days ago that the program was being suspended in order to redirect resources to the regular security checkpoints.

By 2:00p, having taken the train from the Jeppesen Terminal to Concourse B, we were at the United Club at Gate B44 … enjoying beverages and snacks. We now have several hours to kill … in comfort … with a view of airport operations through the glass wall that our seats overlook.

The UA app tells me that the aircraft that will be taking us across the pond to London arrived two minutes early from Frankfurt. A good sign for an on-time departure for us.

Our travel day is off to a smooth start. 🤞🏻 the rest of the trip runs as smoothly.Read more
TravelerEnjoy this excellent adventure!
2/24/26Reply
Two to TravelThank you … looking forward to a change of country.
2/24/26Reply
Traveler🥰
2/24/26Reply
3 more comments
9 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
One More Sleep To Go
February 23 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F
That we have been busy since mid January when we made the decision to move our departure to Bologna to 24 February goes without saying.

Our days have been filled with …

✅ Keeping healthcare appointments and getting vacation overrides for meds.

✅ Organizing documents for the 2025 federal and state tax filings.

✅ Sorting through household goods and personal items to set aside what will go with us and what will stay behind.

✅ Setting up utility accounts for the Griffoni apartment.

✅ Preparing the house for our absence and organizing a house sitter.

✅ Dining out with friends … breakfast with the Sercels; lunch with the Gelmans; dinner with the Conards.

✅ Canceling subscriptions and notifying the insurance company that the car will be garaged for the foreseeable future.

✅ And packing, packing, and more packing … thank goodness for vacuum pack bags that actually work!

This afternoon, we picked up the rental vehicle that we will use to drive ourselves to DEN in lieu of arranging for a driver.

One more sleep in Colorado before we set off for Italy.Read more
TravelerSo much planning. I can only imagine
2/24/26Reply
6 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
New Departure Date Set
January 17 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 32 °F
Our visa grants us admission to Italy on or after 1 April 2026 — the arbitrary date we set for our move to Bologna based on the 2-3 month estimate for being granted the ERV.

We're not going to wait that long, however.

Instead we are going to take advantage of the 90/180 Schengen rule to move to Italy sooner rather than later.

The 90/180 rule, for those unfamiliar with it, allows "... non-EU nationals, including US citizens, to stay in the Schengen Area for up to 90 days within any rolling 180-day period."

We spent a considerable amount of time in Schengen countries in 2025 ... most of it during the latter half of the year — a month-long car trip in Switzerland and Italy; a month-long cruise in the British Isles and along the coast of Europe; and a three-week Bologna recon trip. Thus, we were unsure how many days we still had under the 90/180 rule

Enter into the picture the Schengen rule calculator.

Long story short, an estimated late February re-entry into the Schengen Zone dropped all of the time we spent in Switzerland and Italy on the car trip, and part of the time we spent cruising the coast of Europe. Result: +/- 45 days available to us under the 90/180 rule.

So, our departure to Bologna is now set for 24 February.

Switching the award airfare we purchased last year to fulfill the ERV application requirement was easy. It took about 10 minutes to cancel the original tickets, look at options for 24 February, and buy new tickets ... for less award miles as a bonus.

We have some very busy days ahead of us to get ready for our "expats in Italy" adventure. Better get started!Read more
TravelerThrilling stuff for so many I am sure, as I cannot count on to hands all the people I know who wish they could relocate across the pond
2/24/26Reply
Two to TravelLooking forward to the change.
2/24/26Reply
6 likes
Italy: Ciao Bella
Three Months! Hah!
January 13 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F
Try three business days instead!

That’s how long it took for us to receive our passports back from the Italian Consulate today … the all-important Elective Residence Visa (ERV) affixed to a page near the back.

I’ll admit it … my hands were shaking when I opened the UPS envelope I found sitting on the front stoop. And even more so when I placed a video call to Mui, the camera pointed at the visa, to let him know our plans were a go.

Now, we need to figure out how to move our trip forward. No sense continuing to let the apartment sit empty since we are already paying rent for it.Read more
TravelerExcellent - glad that you weren't sitting on pins and needles playing the waiting game!
2wReply
Two to TravelIf only the formalities once in Italy would be so quick.
2wReply
6 likes
CH & IT Roadtrip
Roadtrip Overview
January 10 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 37 °F
FindPenguins has a nice feature that creates a quick overview video of trip routes. No real work required on my part. Just click the button and the app does all the work.

Now that the trip is in the rearview mirror and all the footprints are complete, I thought it would make for a fun ending … the last footprint for this trip.Read more
TravelerWe should use this feature more often! Thanks for the reminder.
1/10/26Reply
7 likes

Get your own travel profile

Free

QR code