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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

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  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Opus Tessellatum mosaic floor (1st century).
    Fragment of the funerary stele of Ostiaia Gallenia (1st century BC).Antonio Iovelella's contemporary interpretation of the funerary stele of Ostiala Gallenia.5th century BC tomb of a man and his horse.Tomb of the studded urns (8th-7th century BC; found in Padova in 1974).2Marble bust of Sileno (2nd century) ... deity associated with wine, viticulture, and drunkenness.Mesopotamian statue of a Priest-King from the Uruk period; made from limestone (4th Millennium BC).Roman lapidarium anastylosis (1st-2nd century; found in Piazza Cavour in Padova in 1877).Memorial monument of Claudia Toreuma (1st century).Funerary niche/aedicula of the Centurion Minucio Lorario (1st century BC).Tomb finds — Archaeological Museum.Basalt statues of the Goddess Sekhmet ... 14th century BC; from Karnak (ancient Thebes).Art against frescos from when the museum was a monastery.Giovanni Bellini's "Portrait of a Young Senator" (15th century).Giotto's "Crucifix;" 14th cent; one of only two surviving panel paintings from Scrovegni Chapel.Guariento's "Host of Armoured Angels" (14th century)."The birth of Adone" (top) and "The death of Erisittone" by Tiziano Vecellio (Titian).Paolo Veronese's "Martyrdom of Saint Justina" (16th century).Romanino's "Madonna & Child with Saints Benedict, Justina, Prosdocimo, & Scholastica" (16th century)Giambattista Tiepolo's "St Patrick Bishop of Ireland" (18th century).Antonio Canova's "Stele Giustiniani" (18th century).Pietro Longhi's "Geography Lesson" (18th century).Fresco cycle; Stories of Christ from the convent of the Church of Saints Philip & James @ Eremitani.King David ordering Joab, the "King's men," and the Israelite army to fight against the Ammonites.Antonio Corradini's "Faith."

    Padova: Musei Civici degli Eremitani

    April 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Not unlike Bologna — and other Italian cities — Padova has a collection of civic museums. Having already visited the Palazzo della Ragione this morning, after lunch we headed to the Eremitani Civic Museums … just a short walk from the restaurant.

    Housed in the former convent of the Eremitani, there are two museums here … the Archaeological Museum and the Museum of Medieval and Modern Art.

    The Archaeological Museum exhibits a collection of artifacts from the Paleovenetian to the Roman periods … the purpose being to document life in the countryside of ancient Padova. There is also a section dedicated to Egyptian artifacts … donated by Giovan Battista Belzoni, a Padovano explorer and pioneer archeologist.

    The Museum of Medieval and Modern Art — modern being relative, of course — is a gallery that has a collection of over 3,000 works by great masters of Italian painting… only a quarter of which are exhibited at any given time. The collection also includes sculptures, architectural fragments, frescos, altarpieces, the cross painted by Giotto for the Scrovegni Chapel, and more.

    As has become our habit, Mui and I wandered through the museum complex and searched out the items highlighted in the brochure/map we were given on entry. We completed our mission in about an hour. Mui then left to return to the apartment while I remained behind for a leisurely study of the items on exhibit.

    It was 4:30p when I left the museum to stroll through the Arena Romana … an ancient amphitheater from about 70 AD … now a public park. My stroll took me through the grounds and out to the Giardini dell’Arena at the other end. As peaceful as the Arena Romana was, the garden was a hub-bub of activity, the café on the premises was doing brisk business and those who had not been able to grab a table, were enjoying picnics on the grass.

    Exiting the gardens, the apartment was just a short walk away. Time to rest up before our evening plans take us back out again.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    On our way to La Risorta Osteria del Re Fosco — Padova, Italy.
    La Risorta Osteria del Re Fosco's aperitivi tables ... as we approach the restaurant — Padova.Our lunch spot ... La Risorta Osteria del Re Fosco — Padova, Italy.Part of the dining room at La Risorta Osteria del Re Fosco — Padova, Italy.Mui perusing the menu at La Risorta Osteria del Re Fosco — Padova, Italy.English translation of the menu @ La Risorta Osteria del Re Fosco — Padova, Italy.2Happy camper smiling over his mound of peppered mussels @ La Risorta Osteria del Re Fosco — Padova.Our menu selections ... all delicious ... La Risorta Osteria del Re Fosco — Padova, Italy.Heading back to begin our post-lunch sightseeing — Padova, Italy.Antique door accessory on a side street — Padova, Italy.

    Padova: Passed on the Cavallo and Asino

    April 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Leaving Chiesa di Eremitani, we continued onto the restaurant Mui had found on a quiet street. Reviewers suggested that one would pass right by it since it had little to recommend it from the outside, but that the food definitely made it worth going in for a meal in a casual atmosphere. Perfect!

    We found La Risorta Osteria del Re Fosco easily enough … though it was indeed quite inconspicuous. There were tiny two-top tables on the narrow sidewalk across the street … for aperativi only as there wasn’t enough space to place two dishes on it at the same time.

    The waiter escorted us upstairs and seated us at a two-top. The menu was short and sweet … handwritten in Italian … translated version available in English (also handwritten). A quick perusal had our eyes skimming past the Tartare di Cavallo (Horse Tartare) and the Stufato di Asino (Donkey Stew). No judgment on my part … just a bit too adventurous for my ‘I-love-pasta palate’ even if horse and donkey meat are considered a traditional culinary specialty in Northern Italy.

    Instead, to start, we ordered another dish that is an Italian culinary tradition … porchetta … savory, fatty, and incredibly moist boneless pork roast. It’s a dish that Mui remembers from his days living in Roma as a child.

    For my main, I ordered the lasagna alla Bolognese … delicious (if a bit more than the usual al dente) … it didn’t have the traditional spinach infused pasta, but the béchamel sauce made it nice and creamy. Mui opted for the peppered mussels, which came in a big bowl … yummy, yummy was his only comment as he dug into the mound of mollusks that were perfectly steamed with just the right amount of ‘bite’ from the black pepper infused in the broth.

    After a very satisfying meal, we skipped dessert for gelato later!    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.
    Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Frescos in the presbytery ... Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Frescos in the presbytery ... Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Tomb of Ubertino da Carrara, a lord of Padova who died in 1345 ... Chiesa degli Eremitani.Tomb of Jacobo II da Carrara, a lord of Padova who died in 1351 ... Chiesa degli Eremitani.Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Putting together the fresco is like a jigsaw puzzle ... Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.The previous photo is the section of the original fresco in the lower left.Section of the Mantegna fresco in Ovetari Chapel ... removed before WWII — Chiesa degli Eremitani.Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Wood ceiling of Chiesa degli Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Historic photos of the ruins of Chiesa degli Eremitani after the WWII bombings.

    Padova: Chiesa degli Eremitani

    April 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Following our tower climb, we decided to grab a bite to eat before continuing with our sightseeing. So, we headed to the restaurant Mui had already found for us … detouring to the Church of the Eremitani along the way. Turns out that was a wise choice … the doors to the church were locked for siesta practically on the heels of our quick visit.

    The name of the church translates as the Church of the Hermits. The formerly Augustinian church was built between the latter half of the 13th century and the beginning of the 14th century. Containing some of Padova’s 14th century fresco cycle, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

    Unfortunately, the church’s location near German headquarters during WWII, led to heavy damage from Allied bombings. The famed frescos of the Ovetari Chapel, which was all but destroyed during the bombings, have been partially restored … a decades-long painstaking process of reassembling over 80,000 pieces. Seeing the work in the chapel, it looked very much like a jigsaw puzzle.

    As has surprisingly been the case in this very busy city, we once again had the place mostly to ourselves … no complaints from us.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Our next destination ... Torre degli Anziani (Tower of the Elders) — Padova, Italy.
    Torre degli Anziani ... through the arched entrance to the courtyard of Palazzo Moroni — Padova.Torre degli Anziani — Padova, Italy.This stone sculpture of an old woman represents "Vecchia Padova" (Old Padua).Torre degli Anziani (Tower of the Elders) — Padova, Italy.Torre degli Anziani ... multimedia room — Padova, Italy.Original entrance to the tower ... ~52.5 feet above the ground ... Torre degli Anziani — Padova.First glimpse of the views that await us ... Torre degli Anziani — Padova, Italy.Looking down the new steel staircase ... Torre degli Anziani — Padova, Italy.The bells of Torre degli Anziani — Padova, Italy.Padova from Torre degli Anziani.2Bell tower of the Church of Sant'Andrea ... from Torre degli Anziani — Padova, Italy.Padova from Torre degli Anziani ... roof of Palazzo della Ragione in the foreground.Padova from Torre degli Anziani ... Torre del'Orologio.Padova from Torre degli Anziani.Basilica of Santa Giustina ... one of the largest churches in the Christian world — Padova, Italy.Basilica di Sant'Antonio a Padova... commonly referred to as "Il Santo" — from Torre degli Anziani.Historic water tower under renovation ... from Torre degli Anziani — Padova, Italy."Maid of the Amphora" (L. Giaretta) ... in the upper courtyard of Palazzo Moroni.An inner courtyard at Palazzo Moroni — Padova, Italy.Model of Palazzo Moroni, Torre degli Anziani, and Palazzo della Ragione ... in the Moroni courtyard.Palazzo Moroni & Torre degli Anziani — Padova, Italy.

    Padova: Torre Degli Anziani

    April 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    When we saw a sign at Palazzo della Ragione that the Tower of Elders next door was open for visitors to climb, we immediately added it to our plans.

    First mentioned in documents from 1204, the tower predates the construction of the Palazzo della Ragione … making it the city’s oldest surviving civic building. Plastered with white lime at one time, it was known as the Torre Bianca (White Tower) … as opposed to the adjacent Torre Rossa (Red Tower), which was demolished in the early 14th century.

    Built as the noble tower of the Camposampiero family, in 1215 it was sold to Padova by Tito VI, a prisoner of war … he needed the money to ransom himself. Converted into a bell tower, it was incorporated into a complex of public buildings, including the Council Building and the Palace of the Elders (in reference to the executive body of the Padovano commune) … hence the name by which the tower is known today.

    When we arrived at Torre degli Anziani — crossing the courtyard of Palazzo Moroni … the municipal palace — we were invited to take a seat in the multimedia room. Here we were shown a video that related the history of the tower and the various restoration projects that were undertaken over the centuries

    Some of those restorations added embellishments to the original structure. Those, along with earthquakes and a fire, and the tolling of the bells and vibrations from reconstruction work on public buildings nearby, destabilized the tower. In every instance, further work saved it from collapse.

    The tower owes its current appearance to a major restoration campaign that was undertaken between 1939-1941, at which time plans were made to protect at least the oldest section of the tower. It remained closed to the public for 75 years … until the most recent reinforcement of the medieval structure, including a new staircase, allowed it to be re-opened in December 2025.

    After the video, we were shown to the stairs that led to the observation terrace ~145 feet (44m) above us … and just 190 steps away. At this point, we were outside the tower itself, and it took several flights of stairs for us to reach the original entrance to the tower … ~52.5 feet (16m) above the ground.

    The climb, via the new steel staircase, was an easy one. Near the top, there were windows cut out of the tower — covered with netting — that gave us our first glimpses of the views awaiting us. The windows on all four side of the observation platform were also covered with netting, but the give in the net allowed us to easily bypass it for clear shots of the city.

    I understand that the max group size for the climb is 20, which would be a fairly tight squeeze, especially since time at the observation terrace is limited to 15 minutes. We were lucky … there were just four of us in our group.

    Wonderful views! Worth every step of the climb.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Palazzo della Ragione ... and the Fontanella di Piazza delle Erbe ... on market day — Padova, Italy.
    Looking up to the portico-loggia @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.On the portico-loggia @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Portico-loggia ceiling detail @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.View from the Piazza delle Erbe portico-loggia ... Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione (a distorted pano to show the massive size of the hall).Behind us is a copy of Donatello's bronze horse statue ... Il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione.Fresco detail ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Fresco detail ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Fresco detail ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Fresco detail ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Seat of shame ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Fresco detail ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Fresco detail ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Fresco detail ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Fresco detail ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Fresco detail ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Foucault Pendulum ... il Salone @ Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.Conceptual model of Palazzo della Ragione — Padova, Italy.

    Padova: Palazzo della Ragione

    April 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    Our first timed-entry today was at 10:00a … at the Palace of Reason (I’ve also seen the name translated as the Palace of Accounts.

    As it turns out, there was no need to pre-purchase our admission … at least not today. Not only did we have the place pretty much to ourselves while we were there, but also the attendant allowed us to enter well before our ticketed time.

    The palazzo was constructed in 1218 at the location where once a Roman forum stood … though it was another century before the ship-keel vaulted ceiling was added and the portico-loggias were introduced on both sides of the building. Until the 18th century, the palace was the administrative center and seat of the courts of justice.

    The “il Salone,” on the first floor is massive … 266 feet long; 89 feet wide … with walls that are just as high. The walls are covered with frescoes depicting astrological subjects, making it one of the largest Medieval hanging halls in the world. The current frescos date back to 1420-1430 … they replaced the original Giotto frescos that were destroyed in a fire. The “new” fresco cycle is in three tiers above earlier 13th century paintings of animals that indicated the locations of the various tribunals.

    Aside from the frescos, there are three items of interest in “il Salone” — a wooden horse built for a city joust in 1466 … a copy based on Donatello’s bronze statue of Gattamelata; a pietra del vituperio (stone of shame) … a 13th-century stone seat carved from black porphyry … historically used in a public shaming ritual designed for insolvent debtors who were often stripped down to their underwear first; and a Foucault pendulum … a simple device that was first used in 1851 to demonstrate the earth’s rotation.

    We spent about 45 minutes at the Palazzo della Ragione … way more time than was spent by the few visitors who came and went while we were there. I would have dawdled longer, but a sign we saw at the entrance to the palace added another place to today’s plans, so we moved on.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Azaleas brighten Piazza Garibaldi with a pop of red — Padova, Italy.
    At Piazza dei Frutti, we're surprised to see a market in full swing — Padova, Italy.The market continues over at Piazza delle Erbe ... on the other side of Palazzo della Ragione.Fruit and vegetables galore at the market ... Piazza delle Erbe — Padova, Italy.Architectural detail from Palazzo delle Debite ... Piazza delle Erbe — Padova, Italy.Architectural detail from Palazzo delle Debite ... Piazza delle Erbe — Padova, Italy.Casa di Ezzelino .... once the residence of the tyrant Ezzelino di Romano — Padova, Italy.Rock Pigeon ... this one kept shooing away other birds that wanted to perch on the railing — Padova.Tobiolo Fountain (by Amieto Sartori) @ Piazzetta della Garzeria — Padova, Italy.Like Bologna, this city also has porticos — Padova, Italy.Porta Altinate — Padova, Italy.A cart filled with hydrangeas — Padova, Italy.Café Pedrocchi; opened in 1831, it's a combo of neoclassical and gothic revival styles.Cappella degli Scrovegni at the Arena Romana, which is a beautiful park these days — Padova.Sculptures on the grounds of the Musei Civici Eremitani — Padova, Italy.Inner gate at Palazzo Mantua Benavides, which is now a hotel — Padova, Italy.Charming streetscape on Via Porciglia — Padova, Italy.Looking up Via Porciglia — Padova, Italy.Mural on Via Pietro d'Abano — Padova, Italy.Antique door on a side street — Padova, Italy.Nighttime stroll ... Palazzo Moroni, the municipal palace — Padova, Italy.Nighttime stroll ... Palazzo della Ragione from Piazza delle Erbe — Padova, Italy.Nighttime stroll ... Piazza dei Signori with the Torre dell'Orologio at the far end — Padova, Italy.Nighttime stroll ... Chiesa di San Clemente on Piazza dei Signori — Padova, Italy.Reliving memories from our 2015 Rome trip with gelato from the gelateria we went to there — Padova.

    Padova: Street Photography

    April 23 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    We prefer not to tie ourselves down to timed tickets, but my research into things to see and do in Padova — and the suggestion from our host to make sure we pre-book the Cappella degli Scrovegni — had us re-thinking our go-with-the-flow strategy for our getaway.

    In the end, today turned out to be a combination of planned and unplanned activities. The next few days will likely fold out in the same manner.

    With two timed appointments on today’s schedule — one this morning and one tonight — we set off from the apartment shortly after 9:00a to explore Padova. It was a beautiful day … sunshine and blue skies, but a bit chilly to start. It warmed up quickly enough, however … in less than an hour our jackets were off and in the lightweight backpack we had brought along just for that purpose.

    We strolled along streets and piazzas in the Centro Storico — crowded and noisy … lots of student groups visiting the city; we sought respite on streets off-the-beaten-path and in peaceful, quiet parks; we visited grand palazzos; we climbed 190 steps to check out aerial views of the city; we had a delicious lunch in an obscure osteria; we wandered the exhibits at two museums; we visited a chapel and a church; and we went for a nighttime stroll … mostly so we could wrap up our day with delicious gelato.

    Yes, it was a packed day … with lots of wear and tear on our feet.

    I will write separate footprints for each of the places where we spent any appreciable amount of time throughout the day. In the meantime, here are some of the things we saw on the streets and squares we wandered today.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Heading towards the Centro — Padova, Italy.
    Torre degli Anziani, also known as Torre del Comune or Torre Bianca, is a medieval civic tower.Palazzo della Ragione @ Piazza dei Frutti — Padova, Italy.Torre dell'Orologio overlooks Piazza dei Signori — Padova, Italy.Delicious chocolate and guava gelato and the perfect sentiment on the wafer — Padova, Italy.Streetscape on the way back to the apartment — Padova, Italy.Antique door accessory — Padova, Italy.Mural on the way back to the apartment — Padova, Italy.Embellished portrait of Marilyn Monroe — Padova, Italy.Home sweet home for our getaway — Padova, Italy.

    Hello from Padova

    April 22 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 63 °F

    After de-training at the Padova train station, a 10-minute stroll brought us to the apartment we booked as an alternative to a hotel stay.

    The apartment is small, but has all the amenities we need for our short stay. The big bonus is that it is in a quiet, residential neighborhood … but still walking distance to the places we plan to check out during this short getaway.

    Once we made it to the apartment, Mui’s assignment was to pick up some breakfast fixings at Despar, the grocery store on the ground floor of the building. In the meantime, I got us settled in and when he returned with dinner fixings for tonight, we sat down for a quick meal before going out for a recon stroll … and dessert … gelato, of course … quite delicious.

    I took a few photos, but limited my clicks this time as I am sure I will be giving the camera a workout over the next three days.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    The Freccerossa trains depart Bologna Centrale from the underground station.

    Getaway: Padova

    April 22 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Off to Padova (Padua, in English).

    What started out as a day outing last week, quickly became an overnight trip. Then changed to a two-night stay. And eventually evolved into a three-night getaway.

    For the outbound trip from Bologna Centrale, we opted for the Frecciarossa fast train … standard fare in car 6; with seat reservations.

    More later …    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Announcements for Gelato Week and a map showing the participating gelaterie on our route — Bologna.
    Gelateria #1 ... Cremeria Artiginale d'Azeglio — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #1 ... Cremeria Artiginale d'Azeglio — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #1 ... Cremeria Artiginale d'Azeglio — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #1 ... Cremeria Artiginale d'Azeglio — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #1 ... Cremeria Artiginale d'Azeglio — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #2 ... Matteo Desimoni — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #2 ... Matteo Desimoni — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #2 ... Matteo Desimoni — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #3 ... Cremeria da Paolo — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #3 ... Cremeria da Paolo — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #3 ... Cremeria da Paolo — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #3 ... Cremeria da Paolo — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #3 ... Cremeria da Paolo — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #4 ... Islanda — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #4 ... Islanda — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #4 ... Islanda — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #5 ... La Sorbetteria Castiglione — Bologna, Italy.Gelateria #5 ... La Sorbetteria Castiglione's mural is what drew our attention to Gelato Week.Gelateria #5 ... La Sorbetteria Castiglione — Bologna, Italy.

    A Gelato a Day …

    April 19 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    … keeps the doctor away.

    That’s my story and I am sticking to it! 😊

    When we first saw the flyer for Gelato Week, we thought it was a ‘Bologna-only’ event. After all, Bologna is widely recognized as the modern “Capital of Gelato” and a major hub of the industry … housing the renowned Carpigiani Gelato University and the Gelato Museum.

    Anyway, we were wrong. The event takes place further afield as well. Some of the participating cities this year are Firenze — historically accepted as the birthplace of gelato in the 16th century — as well as Milano, Torino, Roma, Verona, Padova, Napoli, Lecce, and Reggio Calabria.

    (Yes, those are not the English versions of the city names … I am learning Italian, and it is easier for me to distinguish the gender of the city name by using the proper spelling in this language.)

    The way Gelato Week works: you pick the city where you want to participate, select the route you want to follow, decide if you want to purchase your sweet treat in a coppetta or a cornetto [cup or cone], and buy a ticket. You can buy multiple tickets if you want to follow multiple routes. Then you visit the participating gelato shops and … well, enjoy your gelato.

    We purchased our tickets on Monday, the 13th, after the special discount voucher we searched for and found online was activated. We opted for the cone ticket … €14pp … less with the 15% discount voucher. The cone ticket allows 2-3 flavors in a cone or a cup, including the special flavor being offered during this special week.

    We opted for the Santo Stefano route over the Centro Storico. We live in the Centro after all and can go to those gelaterie anytime. Two of the five gelaterie on our Santo Stefano route were in neighborhoods that were well off the beaten path. We went to those by bus (15-25 minute ride) and returned on foot (40-60 minute walk). The other three were all walking distance (15-20 minute walk from the apartment), dallying for photo ops along the way (those photos to be shared at a later date).

    You can visit all five of the participating gelaterie in a single day. But why rush the experience. Gelato is to be savored. So, we spread our gelato treats over the duration of the event, visiting one each day. With two-three flavor cones normally ranging in price from €3 to €5, we were expecting that the dips might be smaller with the ticket, but they turned out to be quite generous actually.

    (By the way, gelaterie is not a typo … it is the plural form of gelateria, which is a feminine noun … but derived from gelato, which is a masculine noun 🤯. Don’t worry, I am not going to bore you with Italian language trivia in every footprint!)

    We’ve had gelati in Bologna many-a-time before this and have our favorite gelaterie in Centro Storico. But after Gelato Week, Cremeria Artiginale D’Azeglio, the first gelateria we visited during Gelato Week, now tops our list.

    That said, Cremeria da Paolo would have unseated all of our favorites, including D’Azeglio, but it is too far … a 20-25 minute bus ride or a 45-60 minute walk. Just not convenient.

    By the way, La Sorbetteria Castiglione is one of the two gelaterie mentioned in a March 2026 New York Times article, “36 Hours in Bologna.” We went there today. I enjoyed the flavors I ordered; the pistachio did not pass Mui’s “taste test.” The gelato was a bit softer than we prefer … I had barely enough time for one quick photo of my coppetta before I had to put the phone away and quickly consume my gelato.

    We enjoyed participating in Gelato Week and look forward to repeating the experience next year.

    On another note … Thanks to the partnership with WAMI (Water with a Mission), each Gelato Week ticket sold guarantees 250 liters of drinking water to a community in Nicaragua, equal to a person's daily water footprint. So, in addition to enjoying delicious gelato, we are doing some good for those in need.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Greetings from Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.
    Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Garden Cosmos ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Peruvian Lily ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Amongst the roses ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Aria Babylon Eyes ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Herbs galore ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.One of the many rose varieties @ Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.1Abracadabra ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Roses galore ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.1Interesting garden novelties (no, not Mui) ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Birds of a feather ... novelty garden items ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Mr. Grass Head at the Kokedama (moss ball) stall @ Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Lavanda Stoechas ... commonly Spanish Lavender ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.1Campanula Ambella ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.1Strawberry plants ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Girasole (Common Sunflower) ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Pincushion Protea ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Bougainville ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Nasturtium "Cream Troika" ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.We're not the only ones visiting Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Stalls selling food ... from pickled herring, to cheese, to truffle, & more ... Bologna in Fiore.Mui chatting with a cheese vendor ... Bologna in Fiore @ Piazza Minghetti.Bologna in Bloom ... Piazza Minghetti — Bologna, Italy.

    Bologna in Fiore

    April 17 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    “Bologna in Bloom” is a biannual event that takes place in the city’s Centro Storico … in the spring and again in the fall.

    I don’t know if it’s always held in Piazza Minghetti, but the fact that the 3-day spring event is essentially around the corner from where we live was an added incentive for us to check it out today.

    We went first thing this morning to avoid the crowds that we expect will descend on Minghetti, and the attached Piazza Francia, later in the day and over the weekend.

    The entire square was filled with colorful blooms — roses, perennials, ground covers, climbers — as well as herbs and aromatics; cacti and bonsai; kumquat and lemon and strawberry plants; and more. It was a warm and welcoming scene … with novelties adding interest. The participating flower growers — all direct producers, I had read — were more than willing to offer advice and answer questions.

    We looked and photographed, but didn’t buy. You see, not only do we not have outdoor space at the apartment, our plans call for being away for weeks at a time … with no one to care for our plants in our absence.

    An enchanting event … living up to its description of being a “… garden of wonders. …”    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Entrance to Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio from Piazza Galvani — Bologna, Italy.
    View toward the courtyard from just inside the entrance to Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio — Bologna.Left bottom: coat of arms of the first 'American' student ... came here from Peru — Archiginnasio.The double-arcaded loggia around the courtyard held classrooms and the chapel — Archiginnasio.View across the courtyard towards the entrance — Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio.Tribute to Cardinal Vidoni ... highlights historical connection of the school w/the Catholic church.Coats of arms on the ceiling of the loggia; note the empty one for a student that got into 'trouble'On the lower arcaded loggia — Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio.Heavily embellished entrance to one of the classrooms on the lower level of the loggia.Memorial dedicated to the Fornasari Brothers, both of whom lectured at the university.Chapel of Santa Maria dei Bulgari — Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio.Leading to the grand staircase of the Legisti is a monument to Cardinal Carlo Borromeo.A closer look at the memorial to Cardinal Carlo Borromeo ... on the Legisti side of the palazzo.Leading to the entrance to the Artists' grand staircase — Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio.Ceiling detail from the Artists side of the building — Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio.Cubiculum Artistarum … a classroom dedicated to the ‘artists’ and the teaching of liberal arts.Teatro Anatomico ... with the dissection table for cadavers in a prominent position.The zodiac ceiling with Apollo, the protector of medicine, in the center ... Teatro Anatomico."Skinned men" statues and the allegory of anatomy receiving a femur from a putto — Teatro Anatomico.Entrance to the Stabat Mater Hall, the auditorium of the Legisti — Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio.Stabat Mater Hall, the auditorium of the Legisti — Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio.Stabat Mater Hall, the auditorium of the Legisti — Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio.2The Hapsburg coat of arms is one of the more prominent ones in the Stabat Mater Hall.Sala Rusconi & former classrooms hold the library's book collection ... seen from Stabat Mater Hall.Some of the bookcases rimming the Stabat Mater Hall ... in the foreground are physics books.Grand staircase detail ... Artists' staircase (L); and ceiling of the Legisti staircase.

    Palazzo dell’Archiginnasio

    April 14 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    What is it that they say about April showers? They bring May flowers? Yeah, that’s it. We’ll see when the next month comes around how true that is.

    In the meantime, our beautiful blue-sky days have disappeared. It’s been raining since Monday … on and off and then pretty much all day today. There’s another day of the wet stuff forecasted for tomorrow … and then it should clear up for a few days before the rain makes another appearance.

    No worries on our part. We found things to do, though we did have to break out the rain gear and our puffy jackets as the temps have dropped, too.

    One of the places we’ve been meaning to visit is the very first building that was constructed as the seat of the University of Bologna … located in the heart of the city and about a 5-minute walk from our apartment. Today, the palace houses the public library, which was founded in 1801 and relocated here from the Convent of San Domenico in 1838.

    The library’s initial collection of books came from religious organizations that were disbanded during the Napoleonic age, and later by the Kingdom of Italy. That collection grew through donations made over subsequent years and are stored on shelves that fill what used to be university classrooms. The former great hall/auditorium of the ‘artists’ serves as the reading room. Though open to the public for research and reading, this part of the palazzo is closed for tourist visits.

    You can go in for a wander around the courtyard and parts of the first floor of the Archiginnasio on your own … free of charge. But if you want to see inside some of the rooms, you need to make an online reservation for either a guided tour or an audio guide. Both get you into two of the four special rooms. But if you want to see all four rooms, you have to book the guided tour. So, we opted for that one … €10 for 65+ … but just €7 with the Card Cultura discount.

    The palazzo was built over a period of just one year …. between 1562-1563 … on the orders of Cardinal Carlo Borromeo, who was the Papal Legate of Bologna, and his deputy, Pier Donato Cesi. It was their intention to have a single location for the university, which heretofore had been dispersed around the city. That this would allow them to control the teachings and make sure the content was church-sanctioned was the underlying idea. (By the way, today’s university is dispersed all over the city.)

    The classrooms were built overlooking a two-story arched portico. Everywhere you look — inside and out — the walls, the ceilings, the staircases are all embellished with sculpted or painted coats of arms and memorials that were added through the ages … of the masters, the supporters, and the students. Of the 7,000 coats of arms that once adorned the palazzo, only 6,000 have survived … making it the “…largest existing heraldic wall complex … .” Quite frankly, it was all a bit mind boggling.

    Although our tour wasn’t until 5:10p, we arrived at the palazzo shortly after 4:00p so that I could take photos in the courtyard and hallways before we joined our guide. The rain lifted while we were in the courtyard, which was a blessing on what was an otherwise dull-lit, overcast afternoon.

    Hoping for a smaller group, we had opted for the last English tour of the day. We got our wish … just 15 of us instead of the usual 30 people that make up a group.

    Our guide, Maurizio, started out by saying that we must have heard that the University of Bologna was the oldest in continuous operation … with teaching beginning around 1088. In the next breath, he continued … “It’s a lie.” True enough … in the sense that until the palazzo was built in the late 16th century, there wasn’t a campus per se, nor formal classes as we understand them. Instead, individual students would approach teachers of their choice and ask for lessons … sometimes on the sly, if they wanted to study topics or theories that were not church-sanctioned.

    Maurizio explained that the building, including the two grand staircases that lead from either side of the courtyard to the first floor, was divided in half … one side for the “Legisti” (law students) and the other side for the “Artists” (students of all of the other fields … philosophy, sciences, math, etc).

    Leading us downstairs from the meeting point on the first floor, Maurizio pointed out several of the coats of arms that were of special significance, including one for a student from Peru who somehow managed to make his way to Bologna to study at the university … “the first ‘American’ student” here. It was here that we learned why some coats of arms were missing embellishments. The story goes that if a student got in trouble and was dismissed from the university, the face of his coat of arms would be painted over.

    Our next stop was one of the two rooms accessible only with the guided tour … the Chapel of Santa Maria dei Bulgari … where students attended services.

    Once decorated with frescoes that told the story of the life of the Virgin — painted by Bartolomeo Cesi — today only fragments remain of the paintings … and the ceiling is new, too. Turns out that during WWII aerial bombardment runs, a bomb missed its target — the train station — and fell here.

    From the chapel, we walked next door to the second guided-tours-only room … the Cubiculum Artistarum … a classroom dedicated to the Artists and the teaching of liberal arts. Here, too, only fragments of the frescoes that decorated the walls remain. Today, the room serves as the headquarters of the Agrarian Society (aka Academy of Agriculture).

    Going back upstairs, our next stop was the Teatro Anatomico.

    Yes, you guessed it … the Anatomy Theater. Named for its auditorium-style seating, this was the room where lessons in anatomy were conducted, including the dissection of cadavers provided by the nearby hospital morgue! (The rumor that cadavers came from cemeteries is apparently untrue.)

    Dating back to 1637, the theater was practically destroyed during the aerial bombings of WWII, but luckily the statues of history’s great physicians and the greatest anatomists of the Bolognese school survived and were placed back in the niches after the restoration work that followed the original design was completed.

    The room was fascinating in many ways — not the least of which was the brilliant white Carrara marble dissection table in the middle of the room … the sixth one since the original one was put there; the coffered ceiling with signs of the zodiac … which ties into the ancient tradition of consulting the stars before medical procedures; and the baldachin held up by statues of “spellati” (skinned men), and topped with a female figure, the allegory of anatomy, receiving from a putto a femur in lieu of a flower.

    The tour was to have ended in the Stabat Mater Hall. Unfortunately, we found the door locked and the attendant gone when we arrived shortly after 6:00p … a planning error on Mauricio’s part. No matter, our tour ticket allowed us to return within a week to view the room since it is often unavailable for visiting due to scheduled events. We didn’t let grass grow under our feet, so to speak, and returned to visit the room today.

    The Stabat Mater Hall, named for the first performance of Rossini’s music by the same name — directed by Donizetti here in 1842 — is the other auditorium of the university … this one for the law students.

    Just WOW! It seemed like every inch of the walls above the bookcases lining the perimeter were filled with paintings of coats of arms … some, like the one depicting the double-headed eagle of the Hapsburg, standing out in size and detail. On one wall, a door with a locked wrought iron gate gave us a chance to peek into one of the rooms where the library collection is stored … the door at the other end leading to the remaining series of former classrooms with shelf after shelf filled with a dizzying number of books. Just amazing.

    This footprint, as often happens, went longer than I intended when I sat down to write it … and there is still so much more I could add. Instead, here’s a link to the website where there’s more detailed information for those interested … https://www.archiginnasio.it/lang/en/visita-l-a….)

    Card Cultura Update: With today’s €3 discount, I have just one €1 left to break even; Mui is still €3 behind me 😊.)    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Lunch at Da Cesari ... a neighborhood restaurant — Bologna, Italy.
    A glass of regional Sangiovese to toast the day ... Da Cesari — Bologna, Italy.A delicious lunch ... Da Cesari — Bologna, Italy.Mui always enjoys a post-meal caffettino (a standard shot of espresso ... Da Cesari — Bologna.My surprise birthday cake ... from Il Duca ... a neighborhood pasticceria — Bologna, Italy.Judas Tree in bloom (in the courtyard across the street from our apartment) — Bologna, Italy

    Buon Compleanno to Me

    April 11 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    True, we celebrated my birthday early with a trip — and lunch and dessert — in Parma a few days ago.

    Mui didn’t let the actual day go by without recognition, however. Since we don’t exchange gifts — and haven’t for I don’t know how long — he took me out to lunch … and also surprised me with a small cake at home later.

    Our lunch reservation was at Restaurante da Cesari … around the corner from our apartment … with the ambiance of a friendly, family-operated neighborhood dining establishment.

    Da Cesari’s origins date back to 1955 when it began operating as an osteria and wine reseller. It is often described as a place that “Italians bring their Italian guests to dine” … an excellent endorsement.

    After ordering a ½ bottle of a regional Sangiovese, we perused the menu and listened to the specials.

    Our first course was an appetizer special … the classic Italian dish of “asparagi con uova” … blanched asparagus garnished with a chopped, hard boiled egg, EVOO, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Now, I am not an asparagus aficionado, but I really enjoyed this preparation. Oooops … forgot to take a photo of it.

    Some might find my choice of tagliatelle alla Bolognese as my main course boring. But it is one of my favorite dishes, and hey … my birthday, my choice. Mui ordered a scottona roast beef. We had to look up what scottona means … it refers to a female bovine under 2 years of age that has never given birth … producing tender, marbled meat with a delicate flavor. I think Mui ordered the dish mostly for the artichokes that garnished the meat, but he said the roast beef was fantastic, too.

    Dessert was a taster’s plate of three delicious sweet treats … a semifreddo with eggnog and crunchy almonds … reminded us of crème brûlée; a slice of panna cotta with a caramel syrup topping … reminded us of a caramelized flan; and a slice of chocolate torta tenerina … a traditional flourless chocolate cake.

    The whole meal was delicious … and we felt pleasantly full when we left Da Cesari to return home.

    No dinner tonight … still too full from lunch. But I couldn’t resist a bite of the lemon cake with which Mui surprised me. I’ll have the rest of my cake for tea tomorrow.

    A lovely birthday in Bologna … as I begin inching my way towards another decade … but I still have 729 days before that auspicious milestone. Who knows where that celebration will take place.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Festa della Polizia ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.
    Forensic Unit vehicle ... Festa della Polizia ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Festa della Polizia ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Vintage Alfa Romeo mobile squad car ... Festa della Polizia ... Piazza Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.

    Esserciempre

    April 10 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    “Esserciempre” … Always There”

    That was the theme of this year’s Festa della Polizia, a nationwide event that celebrates the anniversary of the founding of the Polizia di Stato (State Police).

    April 10 is apparently the date of this annual event … this year celebrating 174 years of serving the Italian people.

    Mui was on his way to the market when he stumbled onto the event that was set up in Piazza Maggiore … exhibits showcasing the history of the force, vintage and modern police cars, motorbikes on which the kids were climbing gleefully for a photo op.

    Mui doesn’t usually take photos when he goes out to run errands, but he has ‘strict instruction’ to do so as an expat … to share local events as well as travel memories.

    Thanks for remembering, Mui.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    The entrance to the Monumental Complex of Pilotta — Parma, Italy.
    Looking up toward the grand entrance to the Farnese Theater ... Palazzo della Pilotta — Parma, ItalyThe grand entrance to the Farnese Theater ... Palazzo della Pilotta — Parma, Italy.Historic photo of the Farnese Theater ... this entire area was covered with scaffolding today.Horseshoe-shaped seating at the Farnese Theater ... could accommodate 3,000 spectators — Parma.Leonardo da Vinci's "La Scapiliata" (c. 1492-1501) in a 15th/16th century Italian frame.Double faced flint (center) from the Paleolithic Period (3.3 MYA to 11,650/10,000 years ago).Neolithic statue of a woman representing a "lady of death and rebirth" (5th Millennium BC).Celtic bronze helmet found in a burial structure in the Parma Apennines (3rd century BC).These statues from the Veleia excavations led to the founding of the Archaeological Museum in 1760.Statue of Germanicus with the head modified into that of Nerva (1st century AD).Ceiling detail from the room with the statues — Palazzo della Pilotta.Back of one of the Etruscan mirrors in the collection (4th-2nd centuries BC)Fragment of the tomb of Imeneminet, high-ranking military officer (Saqqara, Egypt; 1330-1295 BC).National Gallery at the Palazzo della Pilotta — Parma, Italy.Palatine Colossi are the 2 giant statues of Dionysius (top left) and Hercules (top right/bottom).Canova's "Maria Luigia of Austria as Concordia" (1810).Giovan Battista Borghesi's portrait of Marie Louise of Habsburg (1839)."The Madonna of St Jerome" (1526-1528) by Antonio Allegri (aka Correggio).Inner Courtyard from the National Gallery (from a streaky window; sorry) — Palazzo della Pilotta.Hans Holbein's "Erasmus of Rotterdam" (c. 1530).The Farnese coat of arms near the Palatini Library @ the Palazzo della Pilotta.The Palatini Library — Palazzo della Pilotta.17th century ebony and ivory cabinet made in Central Italy."Coronation of the Virgin" by Correggio ... fragment from the apse of a church in Parma (c. 1522)."The Turkish Slave" (1530) by Francesco Mazzola (aka il Parmigianino).

    Parma: Monumental Complex of Pilotta

    April 9 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    After lunch, we walked over to the Piazza della Pace … where we started out our day in Parma this morning.

    Our destination was the Complesso Monumentale della Pilotta … which was built as a palazzo for the Farnese Court, integrating the ducal residences and connected to the Ducal and Garden palaces that were across the river. Built around 1583, it was expanded over a period of time. Its name comes from a noble game called pelota that was played in the courtyards on specific occasions.

    Today, in addition to the Farnese Theater, which replaced a large palace hall in 1618 as the first modern theater in the Western World, the complex consists of the Palatina library, which was established here in the mid 18th century, and also houses the National Museum of Archaeology, the Bodoni Museum, and the National Gallery of Parma. The Fine Arts School is also housed in a wing of the palace, but it is not open to visitors.

    Our first stop was the ticket office … where we were given a €4pp discount on the admission because parts of the complex are closed due to ongoing restoration work. Securing our daypack in a locker, we headed off to explore what was open today. We had a brochure with a map of the building to help guide us, but with the restoration closures, we were soon ‘lost’. The good news? Staff stationed around the complex, were happy to help us get on track.

    Since the complex is massive and there is so much to see, we made a ‘game’ out of our visit … sort of like a scavenger hunt for the pieces highlighted in the brochure.

    When we left the museum around 3:30p, our route back to the train station took us through an international food festival on a street lined with stalls. Delicious smells were emanating from several of them as they prepared for tonight’s opening. Still full from lunch, we were satisfied to just smell and not partake.

    We managed to make the 3:58p train back to Bologna … a regional train with a few more stops than the train we took this morning. Nonetheless, we were back at Bologna Centrale at 5:10p … just in time to walk out of the station and hop on bus 25 back to our neighborhood.

    Our visit to Parma proved to be a lovely pre-birthday trip that gave us a taste of the city. We’ll go back to explore further, but first we have other places that we have not yet been to that we need to tackle.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Palazzo della Pilotta and the Verdi Monument from Piazzale della Pace— Parma, Italy.
    Giuseppe Verdi Monument at Piazzale della Pace ... inaugurated in 1920 — Parma, Italy.Aging determines the quality of the Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese — Parma, Italy.The belfry of the Parma Cathedral was added between 1284-1294 — Parma, Italy.The San Giovanni Battista Baptistery was built between 1196-1216 — Parma, Italy.A closer look at the entrance to the Baptistery — Parma, Italy.The Duomo and belfry/clock tower from across the Piazza del Duomo — Parma, Italy.Mui's photo of the interior of the Duomo — Parma, Italy.A closer look at the sanctuary of the Duomo — Parma, Italy.Amazing ceiling and fresco work at the Duomo — Parma, Italy.The main organ at the Duomo is a reconstruction of a 1787 Sarassi instrument — Parma, Italy.Ceiling detail from the north transept of the Duomo — Parma, Italy.A unique art installation of suspended mirrors overhead on a street in Parma, Italy.Hercules & Antaeus ... one of the many statues that can "telephone" you if you download the app.Palazzo del Governatore at Piazza Garibaldi — Parma, Italy.Behind the Garibaldi Monument are two sundials that date back to 1829 — Parma, Italy.Torrente Parma (Parma River) is all but dry ... at least in the area where we saw it — Parma, Italy.The Parma River divides the city in two ... it flows from the Apennines to the Po River — Parma.Mui perusing the menu at Osteria della Ghiaia — Parma, Italy.A delicious lunch @ Osteria della Ghiaia — Parma, Italy.Torta Susanna @ Osteria della Ghiaia ... an early birthday cake — Parma, Italy.The Partisan Monument honors the Italian resistance against Nazi-fascism — Parma, Italy.

    Parma: A Day Trip from Bologna

    April 9 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    With a train trip of little over an hour ahead of us, we were up and out the door early today. So early, in fact, that we managed to get on the 8:33a train instead of the 8:55a departure we had planned on.

    By 9:45a, we were at the Parma train station, ready to explore Emilia-Romagna’s second largest city after Bologna … the city of prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano … the birthplace of Verdi, the composer; Toscanini, the conductor; Parmigianino, the painter; Bertolucci, the film director. Oh, and yes, Franco Nero was born here as well.

    We started our visit by strolling the streets, visiting the amazing Duomo which is chock-a-block with frescoes and paintings, and generally enjoying the beautiful spring morning.

    Then it was time for lunch … at Osteria della Ghiaia … one of the places recommended by the woman at the Parma Welcome office when we stopped by to pick up some brochures to plan future visits to the city.

    The place was quiet; the service personal; the food delicious. I ordered the homemade pappardelle with a ragù made from Parma ham; Mui ordered a platter of Parma hams and salamis, including a prosciutto aged for 25 months that simply melted in your mouth … served with a balsamic infused onion jam and homemade fry bread.

    Our dessert — Torta Susanna … a Parma specialty since the 19th century — came with a candle. Apparently, Mui whispered to the proprietor that our visit to the city was an early birthday celebration since a nationwide rail strike is planned on the actual day. The cake — a shortcrust pastry base topped with a layer of ricotta cheese and a dark chocolate ganache — was light and delicious.

    Unlike some of the smaller towns we’ve visited, many of the sights in this university city apparently remain open during siesta hours. We took advantage of this to spend the afternoon at a monumental complex.

    But more on that in the next footprint …    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Etruscan artifacts from tombs uncovered in the area — Museum of the History of Bologna.
    Construction of Via Emilia ... Bononia was founded in the center point of the road in 189 BC.We time travel back to walk the rough pavers of Via Emilia during the Medieval Period.The three lost towers of Bologna (right); Garisenda (far left) and Asinelli stand today.Mock up of Asinelli Tower, with cutaways showing the staircase inside.Canale delle Moline ... by an anonymous Bolognese painter (1852).Palazzo della Mercanzia with WWII damage ... compared to my photo from last October.Diorama of the Battle of Fossalta (1249) in which the Bolognese captured King Enzo of Sardinia."The Stolen Bucket" ... now a symbol of Modena ... a war trophy stolen from the Bolognese in 1325.Powerful family politics at play ... marriage of Giovanni (II) Bentivoglio and Geneva Sforza.Charles V was crowned King of Italy and Holy Roman Emperor in Bologna in 1530.Ceiling detail depicting Juno ... by 18th century Bolognese painters.The famous school of Bolognese puppeteers was born in the early 19th century.Piazza Maggiore with storytellers and puppeteers ... by an anonymous Bolognese painter.Ceiling detail depicting the Apotheosis of Hercules ... early 18th century Bolognese painters.The Plague of 1630 in Bologna ... by an anonymous Bolognese painter of the 16th century.Cartoon scene with animals ... by Antonio Beccadelli, an 18th century Bolognese painter.The history of the art of books in Bologna began before the birth of the printing press.Ceiling detail depicting Diana with Cupid ... early 18th century Bolognese painters.Majolica ceramic set commissioned by the Duke of Montpensier ... workshop of Angelo Minghetti.Bust of Eliza, older sister of Napoleon Bonaparte; Napoleon's mirror from Villa Aldini.Tricolor silk shawl and vest (c. 1848).Aemilia Ars: an influential Bolognese artistic & craft society founded in 1898 ... for applied arts.Marconi, born in Bologna in 1874, is a representative of the city's technological heritage.Giorgio Morandi's "White Road."Frida Kahlo: The Gaze as Identity” ... temporary exhibit at the History of Bologna Museum.

    Storia di Bologna & Frida

    April 8 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    Palazzo Pepoli Vecchio, our destination this morning, is a medieval fortress and noble residence in Bologna … constructed in 1344 by Taddeo Pepoli, the city’s first lord.

    But that was then.

    Today, the palace is home to the Museo della Storia di Bologna (the Museum of the History of Bologna) … with exhibits covering the city’s growth and transformation from its roots as the Etruscan city of Felsina (founded c. 510 BC), through the Roman era when it was known as Bononia (founded 189 BC), to medieval times, and more recent periods.

    Within the 36 rooms of the museum, one finds stories of important events and notable people who left their mark in the pages of history books. Objects and art add interest … designed to visually enhance the written material on the panels.

    With all the text in Italian, this is a museum where making use of the audio guide is essential. Since our visit today was intended as an overview, we decided to skip the audio this time and rely on the laminated cards for an overview of the theme of each room. Our attention focused on topics that we are more or less familiar with. When we return for a more in depth visit, we’ll get the audio guides and explore at a slower pace.

    Before we wandered through the museum proper, we checked out the temporary photographic exhibition installed on the ground floor of the museum … “Frida Kahlo: The Gaze as Identity.”

    The photos are all of Kahlo staring into the camera with her signature, unblinking gaze that became “… an integral part of her identity and, subsequently, of her legend.” The photographic portraits present “… a shifting and multifaceted image: there is the Frida captured by the gaze of her lover, the gallery owner, her closest friends, and the most renowned photographers; but also the one observed by reporters and her fellow Hispanic-Americans. …” The exhibit was an interesting glimpse into the woman and her life. Sorry … photography not allowed.

    We wrapped up our outing with lunch at Trattoria da Giampi e Ciccio, described as a no frills place that serves traditional dishes. For a change, I ordered the whole wheat cordonetti pasta with julienned prosciutto and sautéed zucchini; Mui opted for the Cotoletto alla Bolognese … basically a breaded veal cutlet topped with a thin slice of prosciutto and drowned in a creamy cheese sauce. The presentation of the dishes was indeed no frills … the taste, however, was spot on.

    Card Cultura Update: admission to the museum was free, thus saving us €7 each; the temporary exhibit wasn’t covered, but we did get a discount of €4 each. After today’s outing, I have €4 left to break even on the Card Cultura … Mui is €3 behind me.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    At the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.
    Tulips at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Frilled tulip at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Frilled tulips at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Japanese cherry tree blooms at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Geraniaceae erodium pelargoniflorum ... at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.At the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Japanese Camellia at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.Tulips at the University of Bologna's Botanic Garden and Herbarium.One of the original citrus fruits from which all other citrus types developed through hybridization.The Canale delle Moline (Mill Canal) is a continuation of the Reno Canal — Bologna.Canale delle Moline ... from the other direction several streets over — Bologna.Finestrella di Via Piella (Little Window of Via Piella) is at the far end — Bologna.Antique door handles — Bologna, Italy.Lunch at Trattoria Montanara — Bologna, Italy.Lunch at Trattoria Montanara — Bologna, Italy.Stained glass panel at the entrance of a church — Bologna, Italy.Limestone wall panel on a building — Bologna, Italy.Victory/Due Torri mural/street art — Bologna, Italy.Mural/street art — Bologna, Italy.Mural/street art — Bologna, Italy.Mural/street art — Bologna, Italy.

    L’Orto Botanico e l’Erbario

    April 6 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Spring is definitely making its presence known with another day in a series of blue skies, sunshine, and comfy temperatures. Hope it’s here to stay … at least for a while.

    After breakfast, we headed off to check out the Botanic Garden and Herbarium of the University of Bologna. Established in the 16th century, the garden is amongst the oldest in Europe.

    The sign at the entrance indicated that the grounds cover some two hectares, reaching as far as the ancient city walls. It didn’t feel that big to us … but then a good chunk of the garden was off-limits … perhaps being restored. Nor were the greenhouses open. In that respect, our outing was a bit disappointing. But we did get to stroll in a peaceful setting on a beautiful spring day, so that was lovely.

    From the botanic garden, our steps took us to our old neighborhood … Irnerio … where we stayed in an AirBNB for nearly three weeks during our recon trip last fall. We checked out the canal … dry last fall; water flowing now. And stopped to photograph some murals/street art and antique door accessories.

    Since we were in the area, we decided to have lunch at our favorite restaurant … Trattoria Montanara … where we had our very first meal in Bologna last fall. Our timing was perfect. No sooner were we seated at a table on the sidewalk that the place filled up … inside and out.

    A half-liter carafe of red wine … Sangiovese. A delicious shredded artichoke salad to start …. garnished with shaved Parmigiano-Reggiano, EVOO, balsamic vinegar, and pine nuts. We both ordered the tagliatelle al ragù as our main dish and finished with gelato topped with Fabbri cherries. All delicious … all top-notch food … as one might expect in Italy’s culinary capital.

    A very pleasant spring outing to kick off another week of our expat life in Italy.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Hiking up through San Michele di Bosco Park to the church visible through the trees — Bologna.
    Exterior and bell tower of the Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco (scan from postcard) — Bologna, Italy.Panorama of the city view from the terrace at San Michele in Bosco — Bologna.Basilica di San Petronio (L); Asinelli Tower (R) ... San Michele in Bosco — Bologna.Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Presbytery at Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Dome over the high altar ... Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Looking back from the presbytery toward the back of Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Sacristy ... Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.One of the chapels at Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Open confessional ... priest on the left of the divider ... Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — BolognaDetail from the open confessional Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Gate connecting the long corridor with the Chiesa di San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Now doctor's offices, behind the doors were once cells where the monks lived.Meridian Line in the long corridor ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, ItalyThe length of the corridor causes a telescoping effect of the view through the window — Bologna.Mural in the long corridor ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Clock/fresco ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Entrance to the glassed-in central cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Central cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Central cloister (postcard; this side now under construction) ... Complex of San Michele in BoscoEnd of glass-enclosed corridor ... central cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco.Bell Tower from the Octagonal cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.Fresco in the octagonal cloister ... Complex of San Michele in Bosco — Bologna, Italy.View of the Bologna hills from Giardino Remo Scoto — Bologna, Italy.

    San Michele in Bosco

    April 4 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    On the flight from İzmir to Bologna last fall, Mui’s seat-mate was a Bolognese man who suggested that going up to San Michele in Bosco to see the best view of Bologna should be on our list of things to do. We didn’t make it there back then.

    When today dawned as a beautiful spring day — with blue skies and sunshine, and a forecast of 72F as the high temp — we headed off to do as the man had suggested.

    First a walk through the city … to a new-to-us area of Bologna. Then, leaving the urban setting behind at Giardino Remo Scoto, a hike through the San Michele in Bosco Park. The dirt path up to the top of the hill was wide, grass and trees on either side. Nothing manicured about this park … it was all natural. Quiet, too. The only people we encountered were locals walking their dogs off-the-leash … all well-trained and well-behaved … the dogs, that is.

    Catching a glimpse of the church at the top through the trees, we enjoyed a brief commune with nature.

    Our outing may have started out just for the purpose of enjoying aerial views of Bologna. But we found so much more to explore once at the top of the hill.

    San Michele in Bosco, which translates as San Michele in the Forest, was built as a monumental monastic complex on the site of previous monastic settlements dating back to the 4th century. It was rebuilt by the Olivetan monks after they arrived in 1364.

    Over the following centuries, the monastery was abandoned, re-settled, and renovated … sometimes used for its original religious purpose, at other times as military barracks, a jail, a villa for a pontifical legate, and a residence for the King of Italy. At the end of the 19th century, the monastery was converted into what became one of the best orthopedic hospitals in the world.

    Checking out the views, next, we wandered into the church … single nave with several chapels, the presbytery and the high altar at the top of a staircase with a marble portal. A quick peek into the sacristy with a beautiful fresco at the back of the room; a careful look at the open confessionals with beautiful details.

    Going through a door at the far end of the presbytery, we were hoping to find the cloisters … the unusual octagonal one promising more frescos. We found both eventually, but first we found ourselves in a 530-foot long corridor lined with doors. Here were the rooms that once served as monks’ cells. Each one now has a sign indicating it’s an office for a doctor. We had inadvertently entered the Rizzoli Orthopedic Institute.

    Of interest in the corridor were several frescos; a Meridian Line similar to the one we saw in the Basilica di San Petronio last fall; and the window through which one can see the city view. The window is aligned with the top of Asinelli Tower. As I understand it, the length of the corridor causes a perceptual illusion. Moving away from the window, the tower looks bigger than it does when you move closer. We were about to test this out when we were distracted by what sounded like a door being locked.

    It was 11:55a and, as it turns out, the door connecting the corridor to the church had indeed been locked for siesta! The good news? We were able to walk around the hospital complex at leisure, check out the cloisters, and eventually make our way outside to a garden at the Institute … a bench in the shade served as a place for us to have a quick snack before hiking down.

    A fun outing … one that gave us an unexpected chance to explore new-to-us sights. There’s still plenty to see at the San Michele in Bosco Monumental Complex. Perhaps we’ll make an appointment for a tour next time.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    A fun time at TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.
    TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.A riot of color @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Picking tulips @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Picking tulips @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Lady bug & tulip @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.I make a friend at TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.All set with our bouquet @ TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Our bouquet from TuliPark — Bologna, Italy.Placed in cold water ... no vase; Mui 'McGyver' made one out of a plastic water bottle.

    A Stroll Among Tulips

    April 3 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Ask people where tulips originated and the answer you will get from most is “the Netherlands.”

    That’s partly true … but only in that the Dutch commercialized the flower to the point that tulips became an economic and cultural symbol of the country. They are responsible for the branding, if you will.

    In actual fact, tulips were first cultivated by the Ottoman Turks as early as the 10th century. In fact, the flower gave its name to the period in Ottoman history known as the Lâle Devri (Tulip Era) … from 1718 to 1730 … a time of peace, and artistic and cultural significance. It was toward the latter part of the 16th century that tulip bulbs were introduced to the Netherlands … and they ran with it!

    End of the history lesson. Now for today’s story.

    Last week, we came across mention of a place called TuliPark … a tulip farm, really. It is the brainchild of a company that has over 40 years of experience in the flower sector … initially a family-run operation.

    Every year a “blooming festival” is held at TuliPark, which mimics the Dutch countryside in several cities around Italy … Bologna, Bari, and Rome to mention a few. The farm is open to visitors sometime in March/April … the dates varying a bit depending on the weather and growing conditions. The rest of the year, the fields are maintained and prepared for the planting of new bulbs.

    We decided to wait until this week to visit TuliPark, monitoring the blooming updates on the website. After several overcast days, when the sun came out and the sky shed its gloomy grey for brilliant blue, we decided to head there today … with the bloom forecast at 85%.

    To get to TuliPark, we hopped on bus 11B from a stop near the apartment. After a 30-minute or so ride, we got off across the road from the park to find fields covered in a riot of color … what we would call a “renk cümbüşü” in Turkish.

    Row after row of tulips in varied shades of red, burgundy, orange, yellow, pink, purple, and pristine white … some striped; some fringed. It was such a delight to walk amongst the rows of colorful blooms … stopping for photo ops that begged to be taken. The scene was simply … well, magical would be one way of describing it. That there were very few people visiting while we were there was a bonus. (I imagine we had an advantage over waiting for the 100% bloom, which falls on Easter weekend this year, and promises fields packed with visitors.)

    Admission is charged to enter TuliPark … €9pp. In return, you get three tulips each free … additional blooms at €1 each. The best part? You get to pick your own tulips and take home a bouquet in a symphony of colors of your own choosing.

    You don’t get to keep the bulbs, however. If the bulb remains attached to the tulip, as was the case with most of the ones we picked because the recent rain had softened the soil, the staff snip it off. They don’t do this to replant the bulbs themselves. Nor do they throw them away. Rather, these bulbs are donated to schools and institutes and municipalities. A form of civic-minded charity that is to be applauded.

    We had a wonderful time at TuliPark and look forward to revisiting next year.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    This temporary exhibition briefly took us to Japan today — Bologna, Italy.
    Graphic Japan Exhibition at the Museum of Archaeology — Bologna, Italy.Wild Geese ... Illustrated Notebook Series (1713, Edo Period) ... Graphic Japan Exhibition.Pair of mandarin ducks on a frozen pond beneath falling leaves (U. Hiroshige; 1840-1843, Edo Period)Pair of cranes with young's, pine tree and rising sun ... from Kyōsai's drawings for pleasure.Poster for Nihonshu (Japanese sake) ... by N. Kazumasa — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Long-sleeved kimono from the first half of the 19th century, Edo Period — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Hand-carved paper stencil with turtle motif for fabric dyeing (late 19th century; Meiji Era).Obis from the 19th century — Graphic Japan Exhibition.OK Moon Color (M. Keizo) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Suijin Shrine Forest and the Massaki Region along the Sumida River (100 Famous Views of Edo Series).Toto Norenkai (an Association of Long-Established Shops) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Hara. View of Mount Fuji & Ashitakayama (Famous Places along the 53 Stations of the Tōkaidō).Kimono ... taken before I noticed this one had a "No Photos" sign — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Beauty writing a letter (Series: 5 Types of Female Beauty ... K. Utamaro; 1803-1804, Edo Period).Ichikawa Danjūrō [as Soga Gorō] ... U. Toyokuni (1814) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Graphic Japan Exhibition — Bologna, Italy.Graffiti caricatures of actors on warehouse walls (U. Kuniyoshi; 1848, Edo Period) — Graphic Japan.Forest and Woods (Y. Ryūichi; reprint 1990) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.NOH-UCLA — Japanese Traditional Performing Arts (K. Mitsuo; 2017 poster) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Welcome to Japan (N. Masayoshi; 1988 poster) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Owl on a pine branch and rising moon (U. Hiroshige; c. 1830, Edo Period) — Graphic Japan Exhibition.Japonism in Italian posters ... "Madama Butterfly" (L. Metlicovitz; c. 1904) — Graphic Japan.Graphic Japan Exhibition — Bologna, Italy.

    Graphic Japan

    March 30 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Today, we left Italy for Japan … at least for an hour or so!

    When Mui bought our Card Culturas from the Bologna Welcome Center several weeks ago, he was given a packet of brochures. Among them was a postcard promoting a temporary exhibition … “Graphic Japan: from Hokusai to Manga” … installed at the Museum of Archaeology.

    While the Card Cultura gives us free admission to the museum, temporary exhibits are not covered. We did get a €2 discount on the 65+ admission, reducing the hit to our wallet to €12pp.

    The exhibition is described as “…visually chronicling the fundamental stages of Japanese graphic design, journeying from the Edo period (1603-1868) to the present day. … It explores the reasons behind the global success of Japanese graphic art, from ukiyo-e prints (images of the "Floating World") to contemporary posters and manga. …”

    The exhibition, which consists of 200+ works that are on loan, is divided into four themes … nature, figures, sign, and contemporary Japonism. Through the various works, the exhibition tells “… a rich story of the evolution of Japanese graphics, showcasing its connection to calligraphy, typography, design, fashion, and even film. The exhibition highlights key artists and themes from different eras, showing how techniques and subjects have changed while maintaining the recognizable visual essence of Japanese culture.”

    When we decided to check out the exhibition, which ends on 6 April, we didn’t know exactly what to expect. The art on the walls and the display cases exceeded our expectations and we really enjoyed ourselves. Mui even got some inspiration for his own artistic endeavors.

    We wrapped up our outing with lunch at Trattoria La Corte Galluzzi … located in an inner courtyard that is first mentioned in a document from 1288. Delicious tagliatelle al ragù; a Cabernet Sauvignon that our palates enjoyed. Dessert was so-so, however, so when we return, we’ll skip a sweet treat there for some gelato elsewhere.

    *** Card Cultura Update … with the €2 discount on admission, I have €13 left to break even.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Mui gets to work repairing the tear on the corner of the suitcase — Bologna, Italy.
    From that to this ... doesn't look pretty, but it will work — Bologna, Italy.

    Mui “McGyver”

    March 29 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Unfortunately, one of the suitcases we shipped from Colorado Springs to Bologna was badly damaged en route.

    Mui figured he could perhaps repair the bag. So, he put his ‘McGyver hat’ on and came up with a solution. A bunch of zip ties … black, of course; a tube of heavy duty adhesive. And voilà … the tear is patched up.

    It doesn’t look pretty, but it will do the trick if we need to use the bag to ship stuff somewhere.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Casa Carducci ... Giosuè and Elvira lived in the apartment on the first floor — Bologna, Italy.
    Antique doorbells @ Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.The circular staircase in the foyer goes up to the Carducci apartment — Bologna, Italy.There are bookcases everywhere in the apartment, but this room is officially designated the library.Ceiling detail from the library of Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Carducci's study ... where he spent most of his days ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Carducci's study ... portrait of Dante ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Carducci's Nobel Prize certificate for literature ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.The study ... plaster caricature of Carducci in the act of polishing the "Italian boot."Ceiling detail from Carducci's study ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Carducci's bedroom ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Basin in the corner of Carducci's bedroom ... operational from 1901 onwards.Dining room ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Dining room ... refractory stone and masonry stove with decorations in relief — Casa Carducci.Elvira's bedroom at Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Barrel-vaulted ceiling in Elvira's bedroom at Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Painting of Carducci in Elvira's bedroom at Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Elvira's drawing room ... the picture of the little girl is their daughter, Libertà (Titti).Ceiling detail from Elvira's drawing room ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.Walnut shelf and alabaster objects in Elvira's drawing room ... Casa Carducci — Bologna, Italy.

    Casa Carducci

    March 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    As I mentioned in the previous footprint, the Museo Civico del Risorgimento is housed on the ground floor of Casa Carducci. On the first floor above, is the apartment where the Carducci family lived.

    Before leaving the museum, I asked if I could take a look at the apartment … included in my free admission. No problem. With another explanatory booklet in hand, I was escorted upstairs by one of the employees.

    Casa Carducci dates back to the 16th century. It was built as a church, and before that, as an oratory. In 1712, the place of worship was destroyed by a fire and subsequently rebuilt. Following the Napoleonic occupation at the end of the 18th century, it was sold to wealthy merchants, who expanded the building. The house owes its current form to that expansion work. Carducci and his wife lived here from 1890 to 1907, when Giosuè died.

    Carducci’s book collection is behind glass-fronted bookcases, but everything else in the apartment is out in the open. No surprise then that the escort dogged my footsteps from room to room. She had her own booklet and used it to identify and read about the many objects on display, while I did the same … taking time to photograph some of the items … including the Nobel certificate Carducci received for literature … the news of which was given to him in the study by the Swedish Ambassador.

    While there is electricity in the apartment, the light is dim. It made taking photos challenging, but I managed to click the shutter on the phone enough times to have a collection of images to share here.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Casa Carducci, a national monument ... the museum is housed on the ground floor — Bologna.
    Uniform of the Royal Velites and the National Guard of Bologna; gala jacket & dignitary suit.Medallions representing Gioacchino Murat & Caroline Bonaparte; King & Queen of Naples (1808-1812).Hilts of swords for deputation ... 18th century (top) and 19th century.Mitre & pastoral staff that were used to adorn the statue of Gregorio XIII @ Palazzo Comunale (1797)Ceiling detail from the exhibit hall of the Museo Civico del Risorgimento — Bologna.Silk handkerchief celebrating the amnesty granted by Pope Pio IX to political prisoners.Turtle shell rings with patriotic inscriptions (1848).Uniforms of the Battalion of Hope ... consisting of Bolognese pupils."Dance Around the Tree of Liberty on the Bridge on Via Lame in Bologna (1849)" ... by Belvederi.Tree of Liberty (replica) ... an important Jacobean symbol revived during the 1848-49 revolution.Roof detail and patriotic silk handkerchiefs.Uniforms of Garibaldi's red shirts; and the only one that was coffee-colored (with a bullet hole).Uniform of the Garibaldine Guides w/red forage cap; anonymous portrait of Garibaldi.Model of the National Holiday of the Statute 1860.Portrait of Vittorio Emanuele II; 1st king of the Unified Italy (by Elisabeth Modell; 1859).Jacket, haversack, helmet "Adrian" model; 1916 antigas mask — WWI exhibit.WWI propaganda posters for Italian war loans.Model of the air-raid protection for Fontana del Nettuno (L); the fountain as it is today (my photo)Mui's home improvement project ... insect screen installation — Bologna, Italy.

    Museo Civico del Risorgimento di Bologna

    March 28 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 55 °F

    We went our separate ways this morning … meeting up for lunch at Il Duca di Amalfi for a quick bite following our individual outings.

    Mui headed to Casalecchio to run some errands. Namely, to get materials to put up insect screens. The use of such screens doesn’t seem to be prevalent in Italy … at least around the Centro Storico of Bologna. We have neither a balcony nor a terrace at the apartment, and like to open the windows to ‘bring the outside in’ …. get some fresh air. Hence, a home improvement project for Mui. The screen material is easy enough to cut to size and tack up with a strip designed for that purpose. Two windows down … three or more to go.

    In the meantime, I headed out to a museum that Mui showed little interest in visiting.

    The word Risorgimento literally translates as resurgence or rising again. This civic museum, which was inaugurated in 1893, focuses on the 19th century political and social movement that resulted in the Unification of Italy.

    It was founded to (1) instill “… patriotic ideals in the general public, and particularly in the younger generations;” and (2) “… promote historical research on the recent past …”. To accomplish the latter, a library was founded in 1904, but is housed elsewhere in the city.

    The museum covers the time frame from the Napoleonic Age through WWI … the latter considered the conclusion of the Italian unification process. The exhibits in the display cases are accordingly laid out, with the periods in between covering European Restoration, Italian Unification, and United Italy.

    Currently, the museum’s exhibit space is housed on the ground floor of Casa Carducci … a national monument that was once the home of writer/poet Giosuè Carducci.

    A 20-25 minute walk on a very pleasant day brought me from the apartment to the museum, where I presented my Card Cultura to receive free admission. During the entire time I was there, I had the place to myself. I didn’t mind that at all 😉.

    There is little to read at the museum … except for some proclamations, leaflets, declarations, and such. I imagine most of the written material is in the library. I would categorize the museum more as an exhibit of artifacts, of which just a small portion of the museum’s collection is on display.

    There is no signage … just numbers identifying the items in each case. No worries. I was given a booklet that allowed me to match items with descriptions. My booklet was in English, but I imagine they have them in other languages as well. Having the place to myself allowed me to take my time viewing, identifying, and photographing some of the exhibited items. The latter was a challenge since all but a few were in glass display cases, but I did my best.

    P.S Saved another €3 (65+ admission) … leaving me with €12 to break even on my Card Cultura purchase.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Arco del Follo, a historical gate with a Latin inscription to Napoleon, who visited in 1797.
    Chiesa Parrocchiale dei SS Pietro Ap. e Prospero V — Reggio Emilia, Italy.2Portico in Reggio Emilia, Italy.Mural in Reggio Emilia, Italy.Entrance to Palazzo Sacrati — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Reggio Emilia is the birthplace of the Italian Tricolor flag ... first adopted in 1797.Courtyard and mural at Galleria del Monte — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Market in Piazza Prampolini and the clock tower at Palazzo Monte di Pietá — Reggio Emilia, Italy.2Piazza Prampolini and the clock tower at Palazzo Monte di Pietá — Reggio Emilia, Italy.The clock tower and the Duomo ... Piazza Prampolini — Reggio Emilia, ItalyMadonna and the child with the Fiordibelli couple ... on the Duomo tower — Reggio Emilio, Italy.The Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Dome of the Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Fresco @ the Duomo (Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta) — Reggio Emilia, Italy.The Crostolo Statue in Piazza Prampolini ... names for the stream that flows through the city.2Via della Croce Bianca in B&W — Reggio Emilia, Italy.The Broletto Passage links Piazza Prampolini and Piazza di S. Prospero — Reggio Emilio, Italy.Piazza and Basilica di S. Prospero — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Piazza di S. Prospero — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Chiesa di San Giorgio (Church of Saint George) where the Ukrainian Greek Catholic community worship.Chiesa del Cristo ... the Orthodox Church — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Chiesa del Cristo ... the Orthodox Church — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Building entry in the historic center — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Colorful side street in the historic center — Reggio Emilia, Italy.Detail from doors in the historic center (the two on the right are bell pulls — Reggio Emilia, Italy

    Reggio Emilia: A Day Trip from Bologna

    March 25 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Our days of waking up at the crack of dawn to get ready and rush off to go sightseeing are long over. These days, we’re more relaxed about exploring.

    That said, we are realizing that if we are going on a day trip — especially somewhere less tourist-oriented — we need to consider picking up the pace at home and not dally too much. Maybe just grabbing a cappuccino and cornetto from a pasticceria instead of having a sit down breakfast at home would help.

    You see, there’s this thing called siesta here, and sometimes that adversely impacts our plans. That was the case today. In our defense, when we checked the hours of operation for a few of the sites at our destination, there was no indication of siesta closures.

    Regardless, we had a great time in Reggio Emilia … a less touristy charming city and the birthplace of the Italian Tricolor flag. But we had to switch our plans around a bit and focus more on a stroll and lunch than visiting specific places.

    Leaving the apartment around 10:30a, we hopped on a bus to get to Bologna Centrale … a test run, if you will, to see how the bus system works … paying for our tickets by tapping with Apple Pay. While some buses turn into the train station to drop off passengers, this one left us across the street.

    Once in the station, we purchased our tickets for the 11:35a train, opting to pay for the slightly more expensive InterCity train to save time … €10pp … Reggio Emilio the second stop on the line. We arrived at our destination about 25 minutes ahead of schedule. Not sure how that happened, but no complaints.

    A meandering 20-minute walk to Centro Storico — as per Google Maps — took a bit longer since we stopped for a few photos along the way. Eventually, we arrived at Piazza Prampolini … in the heart of the historic center. The square was hopping with a market that was doing a bustling business selling clothing, household linens, and the like.

    This square is overlooked by the Duomo … Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta; the clock tower, and the city hall … which is also where one finds the Tricolor Hall. We only had a chance to go inside the cathedral, which was built in 857 and modified several times over the centuries.

    I was really hoping to see the 4th century Roman mosaic floor that was discovered under the Duomo, but we were barely inside when the caretaker began locking the doors. He was nice enough to give me a chance to run around and take a few photos, and might have allowed me to see the mosaic floor as well, but I didn’t want to take advantage of his kindness.

    After wandering around the market and taking photos of the clock tower at the far end of the piazza, we walked through the Broletto Passage to Piazza di S. Prospero … behind the cathedral and overlooked by the basilica for which the square is named.

    Spotting tables set up in the square, we decided to check it out for lunch. The prices were in line with what we’ve seen at places that cater to the locals and the menu looked good. Although it was a little cool in the shade, we opted to sit in the square and combine our meal with people watching.

    Sipping a glass of Lambrusco, a regional sparkling wine made with black grapes, we perused the menu — €13 for a main course, water … plain or fizzy, coffee or dessert. I ordered the spinach tortellini served with sage butter; Mui ordered a platter of cold cuts accompanied by Stracchio (Italian cream cheese, if you will) and warm tigelle (small round flatbreads … originally from Modena). Dessert — rice cake, a local specialty, and a lemon cake — wrapped up our tasty lunch.

    After our meal break, we strolled around the historic center, burning off some of the calories from lunch and continuing to explore the city. We window-shopped, got lost in narrow side streets, and peeked into a couple of churches where we found the doors open. Eventually, taking a meandering route back, we returned to the train station for the 3:35p regional train back to Bologna … a few more stops than our train this morning; a 45-minute ride; €7pp.

    From the train station, we hopped on a bus that took us close to Piazza Maggiore where we went to Windtre, our Italian cell service provider, to renew our monthly plan. And then a slow stroll to the apartment where we put up our feet for a quiet evening at home.

    Another great day of exploring what the region offers … even if we had to jiggle our plans a bit.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Courtyard with trompe-l'oeil fresco by Luigi Busatti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.
    Courtyard with trompe-l'oeil fresco by Luigi Busatti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Ceiling in the ticket office ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.In the ticket office ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Monumental Staircase ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Monumental Staircase ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.In the entry to the museum wing ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Sala alla Boschericcia ... and two of four sixteenth-century chromatic harps in the world — MIBdM.One of the four sixteenth-century chromatic harps in the world; Harmonicorum volume (1636).Sala alla Boschericcia ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Sala di Enea ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy.Sala di Enea ... from Father Martini's collection ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala di Enea ceiling detail ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna,Sala della Zodiaco ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala di Enzo ... pianoforte with floral decorations ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna.Sala del Gabinetto ceiling detail ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM.Sala delle Feste ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala delle Feste ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala delle Feste ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala all'Orientale ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala all'Orientale; model of Bologna's Teatro Comunale ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna.Sala all'Orientale ... watercolor sketch of a costume from an opera ... c. 1740 ... MIBdM — Bologna.Sala del Gazebo ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala del Gazebo ... bust of Wagner and the score and libretto for his "Lohengrin" — MIBdM.Sala del Gazebo ... Rossini memorabilia and sketch of him in his death bed — MIBdM.Sala della Virtù ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala della Virtù ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala della Virtù ... buccin with a dragon head ... MIBdM — Bologna, ItalySala Grottesca ceiling detail ... Palazzo Sanguinetti ... MIBdM — Bologna, Italy

    Museo Intl. e Biblioteca della Musica

    March 22 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    The International Museum and Library of Music … our destination when we left the house this morning.

    I’ll be honest … it wasn’t the musical instruments on display that drew me to the museum. Rather, it was a couple of photos showing the setting in which the items are exhibited … rooms decorated with frescos. That said, I came away after our visit with an appreciation for more than just the frescos.

    We arrived at Palazzo Sanguinetti, the 16th century palace in which the museum is housed … since 2004. The frescos, as I understand it, were restored after the building was donated to the city. The original paintings date back to the 18th-19th century and are representative of the city’s Napoleonic and Neoclassical period.

    Stopping by the ticket office first, we showed our card culturas and received our free admission tickets … saved €3 each … 65+ rate.

    Our steps then took us toward the courtyard, which seemed very familiar. Ah yes, it was the feature photo in the New York Times article our friend Kadi sent us a few weeks ago … a trompe-l’oeil fresco fronted by a green space … visible at the end of an arched portico.

    Selfie taken, we headed up the amazing monumental staircase to the museum itself … on the piano nobile … aka the floor on which the principal rooms of the palazzo are located. Showing our tickets to the attendant at the desk, we then went on a DIY tour through the nine rooms that make up the museum.

    It is to Father Gianbattista Martini that Bologna owes its music collection as it was the padre’s own collection that formed the nucleus around which it all grew. Described as “… one of the most illustrious and complex personalities” of the 18th century music world of Europe, he was not only a scholar, historian, and composer, he was one of the best music teachers in Europe. Counting Bach and Mozart amongst his many famous students, this “Father of all Masters” was also an avid collector … manuscripts, opera librettos, autographs and letters, effigies of musicians, and more.

    The first room we entered — the Sala alla Boschereccia — set in motion a lot of WOW moments where we studied what was in the display cases, as well as on the walls and ceilings. Being careful so as not to crane my head too far back, and thus trigger a vertigo episode, I wasn’t able to check out all the fresco details to my satisfaction … but that’s just something I have to get used to.

    Each room of the museum has a theme, if you will. Rooms 2 and 3 are dedicated to Father Martini … not surprising. The themes continue with the idea of music; and operas, manuscripts, and instruments … segregated by centuries; and musicians such as Farinelli and Rossini.

    Another fantastic museum experience in Bologna. As has been the case with all of our museum visits so far, this one was of an exploratory nature. I look forward to returning for a more in depth visit, and also to check out the music library (across the hall from the museum) … there are more frescos there that are calling my name.

    So, if I came away with an appreciation for more than just the frescos, you might ask why there are so few photos of the instruments, music scores and librettos, and portraits of the greats of classical music in this footprint. Alas, with a few exceptions, the instruments were all inside glass cases … as was the written material … too much glare to get decent photos. As for the portraits, this time they did take a back seat to the frescos.

    P.S. We now have €18pp to go to break even on our €25pp Card Cultura purchase.    Read more

  • Italy: Ciao Bella
    Portico at Piazza Minghetti — Bologna, Italy.
    Portico at Piazza Minghetti — Bologna, Italy.Via de' Pepoli — Bologna, Italy.2Via de' Pepoli — Bologna, Italy.The first Maserati workshop ... temporarily closed — Bologna, Italy.Flea market ... Piazza Santo Stefano — Bologna, Italy.Entrance to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher ... Basilica Santuario di Santo Stefano — Bologna.Chapel of the Madonna of the Consolation ... Basilica Santuario di Santo Stefano — Bologna.Door within a door ... on Strada Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Getting ready for Easter ... on Strada Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Impromptu art exhibit inside the 17th century gallery of Palazzo Segni — Bologna, Italy.Ceiling detail from the 17th century gallery of Palazzo Segni — Bologna, Italy.Antique door handles ... at a building on Strada Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Window display on Strada Maggiore — Bologna, Italy.Entrance gate at Palazzo Pepoli Vecchio ... decorated with the heraldic chessboard of the family.Entrance gate at Palazzo Pepoli Vecchio ... decorated with the heraldic chessboard of the family.Torre degli Asinelli ... from Via Castiglione — Bologna, Italy.Palazzo Cassa Risparmio — Piazza Minghetti — Bologna, Italy.Detail from the Poste Italiane building on Via de' Toschi— Bologna, Italy.Galleria Cavour ... a high-end shopping mall — Bologna, Italy.Mui making rabbit ears @ Galleria Cavour — Bologna, Italy.Easter decoration at Galleria Cavour — Bologna, Italy.

    Street Photography

    March 22 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    We left the apartment this morning with a specific destination in mind.

    We made it there, no worries.

    But I’ll share that story and the images from that part of our day in another footprint.

    I keep telling myself to keep the phone in my pocket when we are heading somewhere so that I am not tempted to take photos. I inevitably fail. Bologna just has so many interesting things that catch my eye.

    On today’s wander, we came across a flea market in Piazza Santo Stefano; found the door to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher open — part of Basilica Santuario di Santo Stefano (aka the Seven Churches) — and checked out a chapel on a hall that was behind a locked door when we visited last fall; walked by the the first Maserati workshop … a museum of sorts that is currently closed; spied all kinds of interesting doors and antique knockers; window shopped at sweets shops that are colorfully decorated in anticipation of Easter; caught glimpses of Torre degli Asinelli — one of the two leaning towers of Bologna — peeking above buildings lining narrow streets; and even strolled through the all but deserted Galleria Cavour … with its budget-buster brand shops.

    A delightful stroll to be sure.    Read more

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