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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

traveled in 76 countries Read more
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  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)

    On Hiatus for a Week

    August 23 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Yes, yes … I know my footprints are always slow to come when we are traveling. Can you blame me? Maybe. But I am out experiencing new things … new places. That’s more important. The writing, I feel, can follow.

    Quick summary … we completed our Havila Voyage in Bergen; flew to Copenhagen for a short stay; and are now in Germany … aboard NCL Sun for a 7-day cruise … the last part of our ‘escape the heat’ plan for August.

    On this leg of our trip, we will have no wi-fi or data … except when we are ashore. And, well … that’s when I will be busy ‘enjoying the moment’.

    So the footprints will just have to come to a screeching halt until we return to Bologna at the end of the month.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Scenery en route to Havøysund.
    Scenery en route to Havøysund.A patch of scenery spotlighted by the sun ... en route to Havøysund.We have blue skies ... at least for a while.Approaching our berth in Havøysund.Glimpse of Havøysund from the ship.Hoping for a good shot of the Havøysund church, Mui went aft ... but only the spire was visible.Hurtigruten's Nordlys passes us on its southbound journey as we continue north.Scenery as we depart Havøysund.Birds of a feather flock to a rock as we depart Havøysund.

    NB Day 6: Havøysund

    August 13 in Norway ⋅ 🌬 48 °F

    If m/s Havila Castor was on schedule, it would have been 10:10p when it stopped in Skjervøy last night. We wouldn’t know. We were both fast asleep. Same for our 10-minute stop in Øksfjord at 1:50a this morning.

    It was not surprising that I slept through the 40-minute stop in Hammerfest shortly after 5:00a. It was surprising that Mui was also fast asleep at that hour as he is usually heading out for his morning coffee at just about that time. Turns out that the allergic sinusitis that had been plaguing me — exacerbated by the constant change in the weather — had found a new victim.

    A hot shower, some Ibuprofen for the headache, and a fortifying breakfast. Mui then returned to take a nap and rest up for today’s long stop later this morning. Having spent so much time in the cabin, I left him to sleep and went out for some fresh air.

    There are a number of lounges and outdoor spaces on the ship where one can relax and enjoy the passing scenery between walks on the outside decks.

    The lounge on deck 6 seems to have the cleanest floor-to-ceiling windows, but the only open space is at the bow … often too windy. There’s no lounge on deck 8, though there is plenty of outdoor space … part of it covered. With my recent bout of sinusitis, however, staying out for the next several hours probably wasn’t going to be smart. So up to the Havblikk Bar & Lounge I went … on deck 9 forward.

    A corner grouping of chairs around a coffee table at the back of the lounge turned out to be the perfect spot. I had a floor-to-ceiling window on the port side. I could see through to the starboard across the foyer … in case something of interest popped up on that side. And I had a door nearby for easy access to the panorama deck and the forward terrace when something warranted going outside … which I did as we approached Havøysund at 8:30a for 15 minutes. That it wasn’t raining at the time was a bonus.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    "Between Heaven and Earth" — Folke Fjällstrøm ... using birch tree, reindeer antlers, oil.
    "Between Heaven and Earth" — Folke Fjällstrøm ... using birch tree, reindeer antlers, oil.N-Áslat Valkeapää, Finnish Sámi writer/musician/artist ... representing Arctic tundra & midnight sun"Landscape from Norwegian Islands at Spitsbergen" by Franz Wilhelm Schiertz (1879).Sculpture by Ann Kristin Einarsen; using porcelain, oak, and taxidermied squirrel."Storm on the Norwegian Coast" by Knud Andreassen Baade (1846)."High Mountain" by Hans Gude (1858)."Cormorants in the Midnight Sun" by Thorolf Holmboe."From the Arctic Ocean" by Otto Sinding (c. 1895)."Northern Norwegian Landscape" by Georg Saal (1855)."From Svolvær" by Gunnar Berg (1889).L to R: two papier-mâché pieces by Huuva; "Milk Bowl" by Andersen; "23 Attempts" by Mellem.Two art installations inspired by nature (descriptions added to the photo)."Why Did You Leave the Tent Alone?" by Hani Zurob — Mother Dough Exhibition."The Palestinian Series" — Mother Dough Exhibition."Zeftland #8" by Hani Zurob — Mother Dough Exhibition."Atomkraftsdansen (The Nuclear Power Dance)" by Norwegian artist Eli Marie Johnsen.

    NB Day 5: Tromsø … Nordnorsk Kunstmuseum

    August 12 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    The Northern Norway Art Museum website describes its mandate as “… to generate interest, awareness, and knowledge about visual art and craft in the region … .” The museum has three branches … one in Bødø, one in Svalbard, and one here in Tromsø. Its collection consists of historical and contemporary art, and it also hosts temporary exhibitions.

    Admission to the museum was NOK 110pp = approx $12 at today’s exchange rate. Once we purchased our tickets, we hung our wet gear on a coat tree near the entrance and headed up to the top floor as recommended by the woman at the desk. Here we found not only some of the pieces from the museum’s collection, but also the preservation workshop … no one was working today.

    The exhibition on this floor — entitled “To Nature” — consisted of a selection of artwork representing the topic at hand … but through different perspectives. Several of them were from the 19th century when Romanticism in Europe turned the attention of artists’ gaze north to the “… Arctic, to its beautiful and untouched nature.”

    Moving down to the next floor, here we found a temporary exhibitions entitled “Mother Dough: The Slow Alchemy of Witnessing” … featuring works of artists who live in or were born in Tromsø’s twin city … Gaza … a 25-year relationship. The message of each piece was more or less political in nature, described as emerging “… from fragments absences, and unfinished gestures. They refuse closure. They refuse to disappear. Like mother dough, art remains alive through those who tend to it and those who carry it forward.”

    A small museum … but with some interesting pieces, some of which were designed to be thought provoking.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Anders Sunna's stencil work of Magrethe Kitti, prominent advocate for Sami culture/history.
    Anders Sunna's stencil work of Magrethe Kitti, prominent advocate for Sami culture/history.Yup ... there's another troll ... we are in Norway after all.A statue of Norwegian polar explorer Roald Amundsen takes pride of place in the city park.Manhole cover.Tromsø Cathedral was built in 1861 using horizontal log construction.Tromsø Cathedral: only wooden cathedral in Norway; northernmost Protestant cathedral in the world.Tromsø Cathedral ... the stained glass windows were designed by Gustav Vigeland.Tromsø Cathedral: the Vigeland-designed stained glass windows were installed in 1960.A-wander in Tromsø, Norway.A-wander in Tromsø, Norway.Fangstmonument (Arctic Hunter Monument): a tribute to whalers/fishermen of the 18th/19th centuries.Fangstmonument (Arctic Hunter Monument): detail from the pedestal.Sculpture representing the "Midnight Sun Marathon"; by Leonardo Lustig (2016).1Mural of Amundsen: celebrates his ties to the city where he prepared for his polar expeditions.The puffin mural is part of the Amundsen and whale mural.We spent quite a bit of time here in 2011 ... the museum is in the old customs house from 1830.Amundsen is one of our favorite polar explorer's for his no-nonsense approach to expeditions.Near the Polarmuseet; walrus sculpture honoring the region's historic ties to Arctic marine mammals.Ishavskatedralen ... aka Ice Sea or Arctic Ocean Cathedral is on the mainland.1Gateway to the Arctic Ocean ... with the Arctic Ocean Cathedral across the water.Gateway to the Arctic Ocean; by veteran artist Marie Bockalie and a team of up-and-coming artists.Ice Sea (Arctic Ocean) Cathedral.1Selfie photo-bombed by what looks like a hooded crow to my right.In 2011, we walked across the .6-mile long Tromsøbrua to visit the Ice Sea Cathedral.Fake or not, the digital flames and crackling sounds trick the mind and we feel warmer.

    NB Day 5: Tromsø … Paris of the North

    August 12 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    … so deemed by 19th century travelers who found themselves surprised that a city that grew out of trade and fishing was unexpectedly sophisticated, with the residents clad in fine fashion and the social life quite vibrant. Today, any such fashion was hidden under rain gear and the streets and cafés were mostly deserted.

    The weather as we approached Tromsø gave us a bit of hope that there would be no rain for our visit to the city. Those were dashed. We got rain … and plenty of it. At first it was a drizzle, then it stopped, then it restarted and fell steadily, and finally it poured. The cycle repeated itself for the duration of our four-hour stop in the city.

    Having spent several days in Tromsø prior to our 2011 expedition voyage to Svalbard we were looking for something different to do this time.

    We had hoped to get together with a friend who lives here, but she was on her way to the airport for a flight to England even as the ship was docking. She had suggested a very nice place for us to check out on our own … outside the city. “It will take a little effort to get there, but it will be worth it,” was her accompanying comment. The weather being what it was, however, we decided to bag that idea.

    Nor was the weather really conducive to visiting the Botanic Garden that was my back-up plan.

    Instead, we headed to the Tromsø branch of the Nordnorsk Kunstmuseum (Northern Norway Art Museum) not too far from where m/s Havila Castor was berthed. I’ll leave that portion of our afternoon to another footprint, and share here images from our meander through the city streets.

    We eventually returned to the ship … dry thanks to our rain gear, but chilled to the bone thanks to the stiff wind we encountered at the “Gateway to the Arctic Ocean” mosaic installation.

    Once we divested ourselves of our outer wear, we headed up to the coffee/hot water machine on deck 6, made ourselves some hot tea, and relaxed in front of the ‘fake’ fireplace in the forward lounge. Ahhh! The mind is a great thing … just seeing the digital fire flames and hearing the crackling of the burning logs made us feel warmer 🤣.

    🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹

    P.S. We did not cross the bridge from Tromsø to the mainland to visit the Ice Sea Cathedral this time. If you would like to see what the interior looks like, here’s a link to the post I wrote in 2011 … https://tinyurl.com/Ice-Sea-Cathedral.

    If you would like to virtually check out the Polarmuseet … https://tinyurl.com/PolarMuseet.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Welcome to Finnsnes, Norway.
    Welcome to Finnsnes, Norway.Freia chocolates mural ... yummy, yummy.Scenery as the ship maneuvers to leave Finnsnes.To continue north, we have to cruise under Gisundet Bridge ... one of 15 on the NB coastal voyage.

    NB Day 5: Finnsnes

    August 12 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    While we were ‘behind the scenes’ with the Hotel Manager and the Service Manager, the ship was continuing its way to our next stop — Finnsnes.

    This was to be a 30-minute stop … 20 minutes with the 10-minute all aboard guidelines. Still, long enough to check out two points of interest … or so claimed the “Coastal Voyage Guidebook.

    Alas, I didn’t have that much time as we were wrapping up our tour and that left me with just 10 minutes of shore time.

    I did manage to get a shot of the mural advertising Freia chocolates (yummy, yummy) … it was on the side of the building across from the ship’s passenger gangway.

    Óttar, the Viking seafarer from the 9th century, will just have to wait until another time.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Welcome to the Insider Tour aboard m/s Havila Castor.
    Welcome to the Insider Tour aboard m/s Havila Castor.Looking out through the forward windows of the bridge.Captain Bruland welcoming us; the first and second mate on duty; first mate has steering control.Captain Bruland using a visual aid as he explains about the propulsion system.Our attentive group on the Insider Tour during our bridge visit.Modern sailing vessels all have a lot of monitors providing important information.Some of the many monitors with information used to navigate the vessel.Just a small button instead of a big ship's wheel to steer the ship.Green across the board is a good sign.The port bridge wing and the view from the wing.Looking toward the starboard bridge wing and the captain's 'conference room'.Crew lounge ... they even have a massage chair, which I'm sure gets good use."We throw darts while waiting for the service elevator," quipped the Hotel Manager.Our tour leaders ensured watertight doors were always closed behind us as we toured the lower decks.Cargo gangway ... with cargo for the next port pre-positioned for unloading.Every piece of cargo brought aboard gets an immediate label showing its destination.The ship has its own forklift to move cargo around.Cargo bay aboard m/s Havila Castor.Tromsø is getting some OJ; on the right are collapsed boxes for shipping king crab orders.Tank where food waste is converted into fish food for discharge when in open seas.Cold room for trash (top); paper recycling; can & glass crusher; broken ceramic ware for recyclingOn the door of the workshop.One of the pristine workshops ... everything has a place, everything in its place.Chief engineer explaining what all the monitors are in the engine control room.m/s Havila Castor's engine control room.The founder of Havila, Per Sævik, talking about the formation on the company.Some of the sustainability measures used by Havila vessels.Interesting tidbits ... post-tour handout.

    NB Day 5: Insider Tour

    August 12 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 46 °F

    What was planned for us — and what, therefore, changed how I intended to pass the morning — was the Insider Tour of m/s Havila Castor.

    Though the tour is not widely promoted, nor scheduled in advance, I had read about it while doing my pre-voyage research. Mui went to the service center on embarkation day to add our names to the list. We were advised soon after signing up that the tour would be conducted today, 12 August. But not feeling well the past two days, it had slipped my mind. At least the P/A reminder announcement gave us a 15-minute warning before we had to present ourselves at the conference room.

    The tour was led by the ship’s Hotel Manager and the Service Manager. It lasted a little over an hour … ending with a video presentation that introduced us to Per Sævik, the founder of the company. Now 85, he retired last year as chairman of the company, leaving operations in the hands of his children who are following the path he set for sustainable cruising along the Norwegian Coast.

    By participating in the tour, we essentially went behind the scenes … not just to the bridge, where the Captain explained how the ship’s navigation systems work, but also to the crew deck, the cargo area, and to many of the work areas, such as the trash/recycling room, the workshop, and the engine control room.

    It was an interesting glimpse into how things operate on a Havila ship and the goals of the company … which include operating climate-neutral vessels by 2028. Havila’s focus on sustainability is quite commendable … all the more so because they are already preparing to meet the more stringent rules for plying these waters … expected to be forthcoming in the near future.

    One of the things that struck me in particular is how they have managed to reduce food waste. While such waste on traditional cruise ships can be as much as 1 kg per passenger/per day, on Havila the target for waste is to be no more than 75 grams (2025 statistics showed the average per passenger/per day waste was 68 grams). This is done by having table-service for all meals and just a small supplemental buffet at breakfast. There is no food just lying around for people to grab … or not. As well, plated portions are on the small side … with passengers able to request second helpings if they haven’t had enough. (We felt the portions were just right.)

    Now … back to my plan to enjoy the scenery as we continue north.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    The yellow building is the Harbor Administration for the port of Harstad.
    The yellow building is the Harbor Administration for the port of Harstad.The Harstad skyline as we continue our voyage north.Harstad, Norway.Trondenes Church; northernmost stone-built church from the medieval period; this one built in 1440.Hurtigruten's Vesterålen passes us as it heads south.

    NB Day 5: Harstad

    August 12 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    I released myself from quarantine today. It was self-imposed after all. While I wasn’t fully recovered, I felt much better. Definitely good enough to go to the dining room for breakfast … where I was greeted warmly by the dining room staff.

    When we left the dining room around 7:40a, we were already pulling away from the dock at Harstad, this morning’s ½-hour stop. It wasn’t raining for a change, so I went up to the first open deck I could get to for a few quick shots.

    Returning to the cabin, I began preparing for the next several hours on the ship ... looking forward to a day where I didn’t have to take photos through the cabin window.

    Turns out that the m/s Havila Castor staff had something else in mind for at least some of us!    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    2Hadselbrua (Hadsel Bridge) ... as we continue north from Stokmarkness.
    2Hadselbrua (Hadsel Bridge) ... as we continue north from Stokmarkness.Hadselbrua (Hadsel Bridge) ... as we continue north from Stokmarkness.

    NB Day 5: In the Wee Hours

    August 12 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    I happened to be up around 2:00a and noticed that we were about to go under a bridge. The timing seemed appropriate for it to be the bridge the ship sails under after leaving Stokmarkness to continue north. I couldn’t resist a quick video before returning to slumberland.

    We have two more overnight stops after this one — Sortland and Risøyhamn … at 2:55a and 4:35a respectively … each for about 15 minutes. I thought I’d mention them since I don’t intend to be up for either, so no footprints will be forthcoming for them.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    1Henningsvær's old (square) and new (red roof) lighthouses — en route to Svolvær.
    1Henningsvær's old (square) and new (red roof) lighthouses — en route to Svolvær.Just before arriving in Svolvær, Hurtigruten's Kong Harald passes us on the port side.On approach to Svolvær.Busses are awaiting our arrival to return passengers who left on an excursion at an earlier port.Farewell for now ... as we depart Svolvær the sky takes on the pastel hues of a sunset.Svolvær, Norway.Fish drying racks as we depart Svolvær.1Per Ung's "Fiskekona" (Fisherman's Wife) bids us farewell as we leave Svolvær.

    NB Day 4: Wrapping Up with Svolvær

    August 11 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Our last port of the day was Svolvær in the Lofoten Islands.

    m/s Havila Castor docked for under an hour at around 9:20p. Since we will have a longer daytime stop here on the way south, Mui decided to refrain from disembarking. Past his bedtime anyway 🤣.

    P.S. Kong Harald, the Hurtigruten ship that passed us on our way up to Svolvær, was named for the then reigning King Harald V. Who knew at the time that we’d be sending our condolences to the people of Norway upon the king’s passing on 28 August 2026 … a little over two weeks later.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Welcome to the Lofoten Islands of Norway ... en route to Stamsund.
    Welcome to the Lofoten Islands of Norway ... en route to Stamsund.1The sun is making an effort to come out ... no success, however — en route to Stamsund.On approach to Stamsund in the Lofoten Islands.Lofoten Islands scenery in B&W.Mural on the Stamsund dock that begs a photo op.Departing Stamsund for another stop in the Lofoten Islands later tonight.

    NB Day 4: Welcome to the Lofoten Islands

    August 11 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    Our first stop this evening was Stamsund,

    It was also our first stop in the Lofoten Islands. However, it was just for 25 minutes. All aboard is 10 minutes prior to the scheduled departure time. Thus, anyone wishing to step off the ship had to be back in 15 minutes. That was long enough for Mui to head down the gangway to get a photo of a mural on the dock. The mural begged to be used as a photo op, but the angle from the cabin didn’t work to our advantage.

    If there is one small regret about our hastily-planned ‘escape the August heat’ trip, it’s that we could have disembarked here to spend some time in the Lofoten Islands before re-embarking a different Havila ship to complete the journey. It would have been a good alternative to the Baltic cruise we’ll be doing after we disembark m/s Havila Castor on the 19th. Then again, considering the rain we’ve been having, perhaps our decision to stay aboard was a smart one.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Colorful flowers brighten up a rainy day in Bødø.
    Colorful flowers brighten up a rainy day in Bødø.Colorful flowers brighten up a rainy day in Bødø.Anna Benoni, who lived between 1851-1939, was Bødø's "Molly Malone," a figure from Irish folklore.1Anna Benoni "glided along the street ... humming in blissful calm ..." carrying a bundle of juniper."Sea Eagle Family" by Skule Waksvik; installed in 1996 to celebrate the 180th anniversary of Bødø."Between Sky and Mountain" by Philippe Dommen; installed in 2004.Honoring King Haakon VII; considered an exemplary monarch by Norwegians, he was king b/w 1905-1957.Portside activities as seen from the window in the cabin.Sailaway views — Bødø.The brick clock tower is at the Bødø train station; the final extension of the Nordland train line.Sailaway views — Bødø.Sailaway views — Bødø.

    NB Day 4: Bødø

    August 11 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    This mainland town in Norway, considered by some as the gateway to the Lofoten Islands, has a history that dates back to the Stone Ages, but it did not become a township until 1816.

    It was one of the ports I was looking forward to visiting since we had a scheduled stop of just over two hours here. I even had a self-guided walking tour in mind … following a path described in the “Coastal Ferry Guidebook” (written by Emma Vestrheim) that I had purchased before we embarked m/s Havila Castor in Bergen. It wasn’t meant to be since this was the second day of my self-imposed quarantine.

    At least Mui got a chance to stretch his legs and take some photos for me during his pharmacy run and meander around town … though he had to contend with rain most of the time. He found colorful flowers. He found interesting sculptures. No luck finding any Vicks Vaporub, however … the pharmacist explained that it simply isn’t stocked in Norwegian pharmacies … though it is available by ordering online. He was given an alternative ointment that I will use tonight.

    Meanwhile, I entertained myself watching the activities portside, where rolls and rolls of thick ropes — perhaps hawsers — were being loaded onto the ship … along with some flat crates that I wasn’t able to identify.

    The rain seemed to let up for a bit after Mui returned. However, by the time the ship was ready to cast off its lines, ominous grey clouds were once again portending more wet stuff and making my departure photos through the cabin window rather lackluster. I clicked the shutter anyway since who knows if we’ll make it back to this part of Norway again.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Looks like the sun is trying to break through ... en route to Bødø.
    Looks like the sun is trying to break through ... en route to Bødø.1Just a bit of sunshine makes such a difference.Mountain tops wreathed in low-lying clouds ... such is the ambiance of the area.A pop of color ... selective processing.One of the many fish farms we've been seeing on this voyage ... on the way to Bødø.

    NB Day 4: Bødø Bound

    August 11 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    After we left Ørnes, I decided a nap was in order.

    Very unusual for me to want to take a nap, but I felt rather tired … a sinus infection will do that to you.

    Hence, not many photos from the cruise to Bødø … today’s long stop of the voyage.

    I’m glad that I at least got a couple of shots when the sun put in a very brief appearance to light up the scenery.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    1A pop of color on our approach to Ørnes.
    1A pop of color on our approach to Ørnes.Scenery as m/s Havila Castor approaches Ørnes.Small islets like this one are iconic of the Norwegian coast.Scenery as m/s Havila Castor approaches Ørnes.Ørnes, Norway.Ørnes, Norway.Port-to-port passengers waiting to embark the ship in Ørnes.Ørnes, Norway.It's 10:11a, and we are away from the dock in Ørnes.Ørnes, Norway.Ørnes, Norway.Ørnes, Norway.Ørnes, Norway.1Ørnes, Norway.

    NB Day 4: Ørnes

    August 11 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    We arrived at the dock in Ørnes, our mid-morning 10-minute stop, on time at 10:00a.

    One thing about being on a mail ship is that rarely is there a delay in arrival and departure times. The crew — on the ship as well as on the dock — have the whole process down to a science. So much so that the specially designed clam-shell gangway begins deploying even before we are tied up. I’ll try to get a video clip to show the process when I have the opportunity.

    A scenic sail-in took us to the dock where northbound port-to-port passengers were huddled in the doorway of the building that serves both as a terminal and a cargo warehouse. They were quick to come aboard as soon as the all clear was given that the gangway was secure.

    While I watched the proceedings from the window of our cabin, Mui donned his rain jacket and ventured out to the covered area on deck 8 midship to take some photos for me.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    2The generally accepted latitude of the Arctic Circle is marked with a globe.
    2The generally accepted latitude of the Arctic Circle is marked with a globe.The Arctic Circle Globe on Vikingen, an islet off the Norwegian coast.The globe is from 2006 and replaces an earlier one that was destroyed by hurricane-force winds.Arctic Circle Globe with the peak of Hestmannen (aka Hestmonkallen) in the background still hidden.Blue Nose Ceremony ... initiating those crossing the Arctic Circle for the first time.

    NB Day 4: North of the Arctic Circle

    August 11 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    The Arctic Circle is one of those imaginary lines that circumnavigate the earth horizontally. It is generally accepted as being located somewhere around latitude 66°33′ N. The exact position changes due to the tilt of the earth’s axis. I looked it up on the internet and at the present time, the circle is at 66°33′51″ N.

    m/s Havila Castor crossed north of the circle this morning … at 7:53:35a. I know this because they had a contest to guess the time of the crossing and the winning guess closest to the actual time was announced at the Blue Nose Ceremony.

    Blue Nose Ceremony? “What is that,” you ask.

    It is a maritime initiation rite designed to celebrate entering the realm of Boreas Rex (King of the North) for the first time. Participants are put through freezing challenges … such as a polar bear plunge into icy waters; their noses are painted blue to symbolize the freezing temperatures of the region; and they are often rewarded with a shot of Aquavit or similar drink.

    No, there was no polar bear plunge onboard the ship today, but there was ice involved in the ceremony … and I don’t mean the ice cubes in the drinks.

    Having been north of the Arctic Circle many times, we didn’t participate in the ceremony. I was in the cabin anyhow. Mui did go up to watch and record a short clip of the festivities for me. I’m including it here even though the ceremony followed our 10:00a stop in Ørnes.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    2The hamlet on Indre Kvarøy Island ... with the peak of Hestmannen visible in the background.
    2The hamlet on Indre Kvarøy Island ... with the peak of Hestmannen visible in the background.The hamlet on Indre Kvarøy Island.The hamlet on Indre Kvarøy Island ... with the peak of Hestmannen visible in the background.The peak of Hestmannen has hidden in the clouds.1Used on the glass walls in the lounges. Would love to have this window-cleaning system at home!

    NB Day 4: Arctic Circle Bound

    August 11 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    Two stops overnight … Brønnøysund, Sandnessjøen; and Nesna at 6:00a … all long enough to drop-off/pick-up cargo and port-to-port passengers. Though I was up and down throughout the wee hours, I missed them all. Perhaps I’ll catch them on the way back.

    With my sinuses continuing to drain, it wasn’t the most restful night. That said, the fizzy expectorant — think Alka Seltzer-like — seems to be doing the trick without fits of coughing. I am not stuffed up; nor do I have a headache. I wish, however, that we had brought some Vicks VapoRub with us as it always helps at night. We figured that we’d pick some up from a pharmacy if needed. Hah! Apparently the pharmacies in Trondheim don’t stock it. Mui will try to get some at our next stop.

    Once again, Mui played butler, bringing breakfast for me to nibble on in the cabin. Once again, I had to be satisfied with taking photos from the cabin … with Mui contributing to my collection of images when he spotted scenery of interest.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Sunset as m/s Havila Castor begins its approach to Rørvik.
    Sunset as m/s Havila Castor begins its approach to Rørvik.Sunset as m/s Havila Castor begins its approach to Rørvik.Modern apartment buildings along the coastline — Rørvik, Norway.Rørvik at dusk.Rørvik at dusk.Rørvik at dusk.Rørvik at dusk.Forklift unloading cargo destined for Rørvik.Bye, bye Rørvik.

    NB Day 3: Rørvik

    August 10 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Mui had dinner in the dining room and brought back something for me to nibble on. He said that he chatted with a couple from Kansas City, Missouri over dinner … he at his table; they at their table. Havila is a bit stringent about table assignments and though no one else has occupied the two top barely separated from ours, the wait staff didn’t want Andy and Wendy to move to it.

    And thus ended our 3-port day as we continue north.

    By the way, the third port — for which there is no footprint — was Kristiansund … our first stop in the wee hours of the morning when we were fast asleep. It was just a 15-minute call and we didn’t even notice it as we were deep in dreamland!    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    2Built in 1880, the Kjeungskjær Lighthouse sits on a rock near Brekstad.
    2Built in 1880, the Kjeungskjær Lighthouse sits on a rock near Brekstad.Small lights like this one mark the route through the fjords and warn against dangerous rocks.Cruising along the coast of Norway en route to Rørvik.Cruising along the coast of Norway en route to Rørvik.Cruising along the coast of Norway en route to Rørvik.Buholmråsa Lighthouse was built in 1917. It is still operational and welcomes overnight guests.Like so many of Norway's lighthouses, Buholmråsa has been automated.

    NB Day 3: Rørvik Bound

    August 10 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    After partaking of the soup Mui brought me when he returned from his pharmacy run in Trondheim, I went back to bed for a long nap. When I woke up around 3:00p, I was feeling much better. But the hacking cough caused by the sinus drainage was enough to keep me in the cabin. At least I could take photos through the window!

    Mui was in and out of the cabin, at one point going up to the bar on deck 8 aft. No … not for a drink. Rather, there was a blue mussel tasting on offer. Mui came back to report that they were tasty … but smaller than the New Zealand green-lipped mussels, which are milder and also slightly sweeter.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    The historic fortifications on the island of Munkholmen — Trondheim, Norway.
    The historic fortifications on the island of Munkholmen — Trondheim, Norway.Hurtigruten's Richard With heading southbound from Trondheim.Mui goes a-wander in Trondheim, Norway.Trondheim, Norway.Trondheim, Norway.Memorial to sailors who lost their lives during WWI and WWII — Trondheim, Norway.Burst of color at the memorial — Trondheim, Norway.Trondheim, Norway.PoMo — the modern and contemporary art museum — is housed in this building — Trondheim, Norway.You're bound to encounter trolls all over Norway — Trondheim, Norway.For obvious reasons Nordre Gate is known as Umbrella Street — Trondheim, Norway.Trondheim, Norway.Never fails ... it seems like there is always a kebab place named İstanbul in every city we visit.

    NB Day 3: Trondheim

    August 10 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 54 °F

    I’ve been battling a sinus infection for a while. It came to a head last night. The drainage from my sinuses had turned into a sore throat by this morning. Such an irritant. Feeling rather crappy overall, I slept in while Mui went to breakfast. He acted as butler and brought me something to nibble on.

    This was all before the whale encounter I posted in the previous footprint.

    Our ship pulled into Trondheim at 9:45a for its scheduled 3-hour call. I was in no mood to go out for a wander, so I bid Mui farewell and went back to bed. He went off to stretch his legs with a walk around the city where Norwegian kings and queens have been crowned through the ages. While he was at it, he stopped at a pharmacy to pick up some meds to help ease my discomfort.

    I didn’t even hear him come back, but he was on the ship in time for lunch. He was kind enough to continue butler service with a bowl of soup … and a ‘side order’ of the photos that he took around Trondheim.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    We have whales keeping us company.
    We have whales keeping us company.

    NB Day 3: Trondheim Bound

    August 10 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    “Admiral, there be whales here!” exclaims an excited Scotty to Kirk.

    That’s one of my favorite lines from “Star Trek IV: The Voyage Home.” An appropriate line as we encountered several whales this morning … swimming in the direction of Trondheim as m/s Havila Castor continued its northbound voyage. They were a bit distant, but it’s always fun to see whales … even if I had to be satisfied with seeing them through the window of the cabin. Luckily, Mui managed to get a short clip … very recognizable dorsal fins.Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Welcome to Molde, Norway.
    Welcome to Molde, Norway.There are more people waiting to embark than I thought there would be — Molde, Norway.

    NB Day 2: Molde … Last Port Tonight

    August 9 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 52 °F

    Mui’s already fast asleep.

    I was about to call it a night when I noticed that the ship was approaching Molde, our last port of the day. So, I stayed up.

    This is a 30-minute stop … just long enough to load/unload cargo … embark/disembark port-to-port passengers.

    I’m already in my jammies. It is after 10:30p after all. Otherwise I might have popped out onto the pier for a few minutes. As it is, a few photos through the window of the cabin will have to suffice.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    During a break in the rain after leaving Ålesund.
    During a break in the rain after leaving Ålesund.

    NB Day 2: Crepuscular Rays of Sunset

    August 9 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Lovely crepuscular scenery greeted us after leaving Ålesund … and before it began raining again. A bit of tint to the landscape, too … making up for the lack of a colorful sunset tonight.

    Crepuscular rays are also known as god rays, Jacob’s Ladder, or twilight rays. The latter is most appropriate as the term comes from the Latin word, crepusculum … meaning twilight.

    These rays are often seen when the sun appears just above or below a layer of clouds at twilight. The degree of contrast between light and dark determines how prominent the display is. The color of the rays result from the particles and gasses that scatter the rays as the light passes through them.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Back to Ålesund we come.
    Back to Ålesund we come.Ålesund, Norway.Ålesund, Norway.Mount Aksla in the background — Ålesund, Norway.Mount Aksla to the left — Ålesund, Norway.In 2017, we climbed the 418 steps to the top of Mount Aksla for great city views — Ålesund, Norway.Ålesund, Norway.Ålesund, Norway.Ålesund, Norway.Aspøy Skole (yellow building), was built in the 1920s — Ålesund, Norway.

    NB Day 2: Back to Ålesund

    August 9 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    This was another short stop in Ålesund … just long enough to pick up the tours and independents who disembarked this morning.

    Again, the ship docked at the commercial port on the other side of the city. I know this because I’m used to seeing Mount Aksla to the right and it was on the left this time. Took me a minute to get my bearings. Anyway, I got a few glimpses of the city between buildings, but that was it for photo ops. At least there was no rain at that moment.

    And then, onward north … and into the rain.

    After spending most of the day in the fresh air on deck, it was an early night for us back in the cabin.

    🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹

    P.S. If you are curious about what the city looks like when the sun is shining, here are some links for footprints from when we visited Ålesund in 2019. Since we’d stopped here in 2017 and done our city-wander and Mount Aksla trek then, we opted to spend most of our time at a museum just outside the city. Alas, no photos to share from the earlier trip.

    https://findpenguins.com/52z11qkijr3ou/footprin…

    https://findpenguins.com/52z11qkijr3ou/footprin…

    https://findpenguins.com/52z11qkijr3ou/footprin…

    Photos from the Museum: https://findpenguins.com/52z11qkijr3ou/footprin…

    Photo Gallery 2019: https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Europe/Norway/&Aring…    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Mount Aksla ... on our approach to Ålesund to drop off the tours.
    Mount Aksla ... on our approach to Ålesund to drop off the tours.Map showing the fjords area we will be cruising.Passage through Storfjorden (Great Fjord).One of the ferries that ply Storfjorden.Fish farm near Stranda in Sunnylvsfjorden.Waterfalls stream down the cliffs in all the fjords — Sunnylvsfjorden.The lifeboats add a pop of color — Sunnylvsfjorden.Waterfall in Sunnylvsfjorden.Waterfall in Sunnylvsfjorden.At the mouth of Geirangerfjorden.Rib boats tour ... some of those people look miserable in this weather — Geirangerfjorden.Waterfall in Geirangerfjorden.Waterfall in Geirangerfjorden.The lower part of a waterfall in Geirangerfjorden.The Ørnevegen is one of the zig-zag roads along Geirangerfjorden.Approaching Geiranger — Geirangerfjorden.Geiranger at the head of Geirangerfjorden.Geiranger at the head of Geirangerfjorden.We did the 327-step waterfall walk to the surging Storfossen (Great Waterfall) in Geiranger in 2017.Geiranger at the head of Geirangerfjorden.Kayakers in Geirangerfjorden.Another waterfall on the return cruise through Geirangerfjorden.The Troll Face — Geirangerfjorden.Seven Sisters Waterfall ... sometime there are less than seven; sometimes more — Geirangerfjorden.Tour boat at the Suitor Waterfall (across from Seven Sisters) — Geirangerfjorden.Tour boat at the Suitor Waterfall (across from Seven Sisters) — Geirangerfjorden.Suitor Waterfall (across from Seven Sisters) — Geirangerfjorden.Back at the mouth of Geirangerfjorden.The small protected area on deck 8 was our favorite spot ... there were heaters, too.Bye bye Geirangerfjorden ... back in Sunnylvsfjorden.Through the fjords on the way back to Ålesund.Through the fjords on the way back to Ålesund.Through the fjords on the way back to Ålesund.This is what the green-clad cliffs are like in the sunshine!Looking aft as we leave the fjords.On the way to Ålesund.

    NB Day 2: Onward to Geirangerfjorden

    August 9 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    The itinerary on the website showed an all day stop in Ålesund.

    Well, sort of. Maybe in the winter time.

    In the summer time, the ship makes a quick 15-minute stop in Ålesund at 9:45a to offload tours. Independents can also get off. But they have to keep themselves entertained until 7:00p because the ship doesn’t return to the city until then. What does it do in the meantime? A roundtrip cruise through the fjords to Geiranger.

    We’ve been to Ålesund twice before. We’ve also been to Geiranger … just once. What to do? We could disembark for a wander in the city and have lunch at one of our favorite restaurants. Or we could stay on the ship for a relaxing and scenic cruise … weather permitting. Since it was still raining, we crossed our fingers for better luck in the fjords and stayed aboard.

    As it turns out, the weather did not cooperate … until the very end. Nonetheless, we had a peaceful cruise … quiet … even quieter through Geirangerfjorden itself as m/s Havila Castor went on battery power alone for the roundtrip cruise between the mouth of the fjord and the town of Geiranger. Not a peep out of the ship the entire time. And no emissions at all.

    The coast of Norway is a maze of fjords that branch off of one another. To get to the UNESCO World Heritage site of Geirangerfjorden, the ship has to first negotiate Storfjorden … and then one of its branches, Sunnylvsfjorden. Geirangerfjorden then branches off of the latter and reaches 9.5-miles (15 km) further inland.

    On either side of the ship were tall, green-clad cliffs with hundreds of waterfalls streaming down their sides. With all the rain Norway has been getting this summer, the falls were full and scenic. As one passenger near me remarked, “This country sure has a sh!tload of water!!!” Low-lying clouds wreathing along the cliffs added to the ambiance.

    We had better luck with the rain on the way back out of the fjords. It drizzled on and off … but we had periods of clearing. By the time we left Geirangerfjorden, there was even some blue sky and hints of sunshine to enjoy … short-lived though they were.

    Taking photos was a challenge … I had to dial down the exposure setting on the camera, and make heavy-use of the de-hazing filter. Can’t control the weather, so it is what it is.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Torvik, Norway ... the first daytime port of call on day 2 ... 10 minutes!
    Torvik, Norway ... the first daytime port of call on day 2 ... 10 minutes!Torvik, Norway ... yes, the white dots near the trees are sheep.Torvik, Norway.Bye bye Torvik, Norway.Torvik, Norway ... as the rain gets heavier.Torvik, Norway.

    NB Day 2: Ålesund Bound … Torvik

    August 9 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 55 °F

    … Day 1 being embarkation in Bergen.

    Overnight Stops: Flørø & Maløy.

    Went to bed with pouring rain. Woke up with pouring rain. I’ve read that this can be a recurring theme on these coastal voyages. We’re here to escape the heat that is plaguing much of Europe, so I will try not to complain about the ongoing ‘liquid sunshine’ that is dogging our steps. Or is it the other way around and we are following in the wake of the rain? In any event, I’ll issue a ‘bulk apology’ in advance for all the rain drops that will likely be streaking through the photos I’ll be taking.

    Got a very good night’s rest. We could barely feel m/s Havila Castor move through the sea as it mostly hugged the coastline, weaving its way through the islands along the Norwegian coast.

    The ship’s eco-friendly propulsion system — LNG and electric batteries — ensured a quiet night.. Even the two stops we made in the wee hours of the morning at Florø and Måløy didn’t disturb our sleep … even though our portside cabin is the third one to the aft of the cargo bay hatch.

    Mui was up around 6:00a for his morning coffee … from the machines on deck 6. I stayed abed for another hour and then joined him for breakfast … open seating starting at 7:00a. This is the only meal where there is a buffet … hot dishes, such as eggs and pancakes, ordered off the menu and served at the table … as is juice and hot beverages.

    Yes, we tried the “brunost” … brown cheese … which isn’t cheese really. At least not in the sense that we think of cheese., Wikipedia describes this iconic Norwegian food as “… made by boiling down the whey, milk, and cream of goat's milk, cow's milk, or a mix of both. The long cooking process caramelizes the milk sugars (lactose), giving it a dense, fudge-like texture and a sweet, caramel-like flavor.” We liked it … but I am not sure ‘it likes me’ 😊

    By the time we were ready to proceed with the rest of the day, the ship was ready to call on Torvik … on the islands of Leinøya. There is no town near the dock. Rather it’s all farms … so what you see is limited. Nonetheless … a peaceful setting and I’m glad we got a glimpse of a place that we would unlikely to be visiting otherwise.    Read more

  • Escape the Heat (August ‘26)
    Yes ... m/s Havila Castor is a postal vessel.
    Yes ... m/s Havila Castor is a postal vessel.Jekteviksterminalen ... taken on 7 August when there was no rain — Bergen, Norway.Reception on deck 4.The builders plate Mui was going to go on a scavenger hunt to find ... right there at reception."Ship's visit plaques" for the 34 ports of call on our journey.The namesake of the ship ... not one star, though the six look like one.1Model of m/s Havila Castor ... lower middle photo shows location of our cabin.Cabin 4308 ... seaview superior double ... deck 4 midship.Cabin 4308 en suite ... seaview superior double.Passenger laundry room ... deck 4 forward.Deck 5 lobby ... where we embarked m/s Havila Castor.Digital panels announcing next stop with arrival and onboard times (10 minutes before departure).Deck 5 ... our corner on embarkation day (left by the window).Deck 6 ... reception/service center.Deck 6 ... conference room.Havly; pay café for food & beverages for those without the meal plan; or for something different.Deck 6 ... one of several lounges around the ship.Deck 6 aft ... Havrand; main restaurant; there is also a fine dining restaurant for a surcharge.Deck 6 forward ... another lounge; puzzle area; fireplace;access to the bow deck.It's a mind game 😂 ... the fireplace in the deck 6 forward lounge is a digital display.Deck 6 ... forward bow deck ... looking back toward the bridge.Deck 8 ... looking aft.Deck 8 ... small covered area with seating ... starboard is designated for smoking; port non-smokingDeck 8 ... port side covered seating w/heaters.2Looking down on the bow from the deck 9 forward terrace.Deck 9 ... looking aft.Deck 9 ... due to its eco-friendly propulsion system, there is no traditional funnel.Deck 9 ... one of the many seating areas around the ship.From Deck 9 ... looking aft toward LNG stack and jacuzzis on Deck 8.Deck 9 Forward ... Havblikk (Seaview) Lounge with open viewing area ahead of it.Stairwell from deck 9 to deck 8.1Temperature gauge on m/s Havila Castor ... loving these temperatures.Recycling is a big deal; not the kind that would require using the seasickness bags on the wall 😊.Passenger embarkation and disembarkation ramp on deck 4 (at 2x speed for the video).

    “12 Days … 1000 Memories”

    August 8 in Norway ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    … these are the words with which Havila Kystruten begins its description of the 12 Day “Round Voyage” Coastal Express experience that will be taking us from Bergen to Kirkenes and back again … BKB in the passenger vernacular.

    Today, as we embark m/s Havila Castor in Bergen, we are looking forward to making that promise a reality.

    More later …

    🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹🔹

    And now it’s later. Here’s today’s story.

    Our day started with rain … and continued with rain. After visiting the Bryggens Museum, Mui suggested we head to the mall to check out the waterproof Sketchers slip-on shoes he’d seen in the store a few days ago.

    Our hiking boots are waterproof. But if the weather these past few days was any indication of what was ahead, having easy-on/easy-off footwear to wander around the outdoor decks — and run in and out as needed — would not go amiss. Yes, we each picked up a pair … and left the mall wearing them. They stood the ‘test of rain’ quite well!

    While we were at the mall, we grabbed a bite to eat … much better than we expected for a fast food joint. Then, stopping by our old neighborhood to pick up our stored luggage, we hopped in an Uber to Jekteviksterminalen — less expensive than a taxi, we’d been told.

    If it had not been raining so hard, we would have delayed our arrival at the terminal to avoid the check-in crowd. But conditions being what they were, we decided to brave what we expected to be a fairly long queue. Yes, the line was long … snaking around inside the terminal. But it became much longer very quickly after we arrived, extending to the outside the building. It took us an hour from arrival to boarding the ship … but at least we weren’t outside in inclement weather.

    We knew cabins would not be ready until about 6:00p. So, once we’d been scanned aboard, we found a corner with comfy seats and a power point and made ourselves comfortable for the next 1½ hour. While I read through the embarkation pamphlet, Mui went to the restaurant to book our dining times … breakfast open seating; lunch/dinner at specified times at assigned tables. The 6:30p and 7:00p dinner slots were already taken, so he signed up for 6:00p. Which is fine … except that it is automatically paired with the 11:30a lunch slot. Methinks I’ll be skipping lunch quite a bit as I doubt I’ll be hungry enough for another meal after breakfast.

    Between going walkabout around the ship to familiarize ourselves with the layout of what is essentially a ‘ferry-with-luxuries’, and playing with our iDevices, time flew by … wi-fi is included for everyone. Before we knew it, the ‘cruise director’ was announcing that we could go to our cabins.

    I mentioned in a previous footprint that we are in an SSD cabin — seaview superior double — on deck 4. It is far more spacious than we expected it would be … plenty of storage, too … though a few drawers instead of shelves would work better. The en suite is a bit lacking in storage, but we’ll make do. There is a weird half-glass wall between the shower and the rest of the facilities, so we picked up an extra towel to help soak up any water overflow.

    We were settled into #4308 in short order.

    And then off to the restaurant for dinner … open seating tonight. All meals are table service … ‘small dishes’ that are intended to reduce food waste. You’re welcome to order additional appetizers, main courses, and/or desserts if you haven’t had your fill. Perfect portions in our estimation, so we did not need to order anything extra. Good food … dishes focused on the specialties of the regions we’ll be sailing through. That said, I prefer my food rather hot, so I will have to get used to what I consider warm food.

    Just before sailaway, we went to the daily meeting in the conference … doubling as the emergency safety briefing as well. The captain also put in a brief appearance along with some of his senior officers … so the meeting ‘tripled’ as the welcome aboard and meet the officers party they have on regular cruise lines. Our session was in English, but there were sessions earlier in Norwegian/German as well. All announcements, in fact, are made in the three languages.

    We sailed from Bergen at 8:30p as scheduled. Still pouring cats and dogs, so we did not go out on deck. Fingers crossed for when we return to Bergen on the 19th!

    That’s a wrap for today.

    P.S. Since I am posting belatedly, the photos from around the ship are from various days and times. Yes, there are others onboard with us, I asked Mui to take photos of the public spaces when he goes out for his morning coffee … not many others around at 5:30a … I wonder why 🤣.    Read more

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