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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

traveled in 74 countries Read more
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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Mui makes a friend in Geneva!
    La Grande Roue is Geneva's 110-foot tall ferris wheel.View from La Grande Roue — Geneva.View of the flower clock from La Grande Roue — Geneva.Italia ... one of the ferries that one can ride on Lake Geneva ... from La Grande Roue — Geneva.Pont du Mont-Blanc with Geneva Harbor (Lake Geneva) on the right — Geneva.Peruvian Lilies in one of the fountains in Old Town Geneva.Carrousel @ Place de la Madeleine and a drinking fountain in Old Town GenevaDrinking fountain near Place de la Madeleine in Old Town ... decorated with reliefs of cherubs.One of the three stone mosaics at the top of the stairs leading up to a terrace in Old Town Geneva.Old Town Geneva.Old Town Geneva.Tower of the Temple of the Madeleine in Old Town Geneva.An elaborate door knocker in Old Town Geneva.A quaint passageway in Old Town Geneva.Church bell a-ringing in Old Town Geneva.I love that the fountains are all decorated with flowers.The Old Arsenal with mosaic murals depicting two of the big moments in the history of Geneva.Mural at the Old Arsenal depicting the arrival of Julius Caesar in 58BC.Old Town Geneva.Fountain at the Promenade de la Treille in Old Town Geneva.Le Jet d'Eau ... with a rainbow — Geneva.

    Geneva: Day 1 … Old Town Meanderings

    July 12, 2025 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    After lunch with Didier, we walked along the lakefront together. Our steps eventually took us back to the hotel to rest for a couple of hours during the hottest part of the day. Around 5:30p, we resumed exploring Geneva. Our destination this time was Vieille Ville … the historic Old Town.

    Once again, we crossed Lake Geneva via Pont du Mont-Blanc. Before entering Old Town, however, we stopped to ride the ferris wheel near Jardin Anglais first … fun … all the more so since neither one of us had ridden one since we were children. Great views, too.

    Old Town Geneva is the largest of its kind in all of Switzerland. It consists of a maze of narrow cobblestone streets and alleys; charming squares and fountains decorated with flowers; secret passages; parks, terraces and promenades; and several museums and landmarks … though none of these were on our agenda today since they were all closed by the time we arrived for our early-evening stroll. No matter … we enjoyed the ambiance anyway … perhaps all the more so because at one point all the church bells joined the ringing bells of the cathedral.

    It was just past 8:00p — and still light outside — when we retraced our steps back to the hotel via the Pont du Mont-Blanc. Our reward along the way … a rainbow in the plume of water coming out of Le Jet d’Eau!    Read more

  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    A photo op at the park next to the restaurant where we had lunch with Didier — Geneva.
    Restaurant La Perle du Lac Genève ... our lunch spot — Geneva.That's Mont-Blanc above my head — Geneva.Lac Léman with Mont-Blanc in the background — Geneva.2This little bird has a discerning taste in dessert 😊 — Geneva.

    Geneva: Day 1 … Lunch w/Didier

    July 12, 2025 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We met Didier on an Antarctic expedition that took us from the tip of Argentina to the bottom of New Zealand’s South Island … by way of the Ross Sea. When we bid Didier farewell in February 2015, we promised to visit him in Geneva … ‘his city’. Well, it took us 10 years to do so, but we kept our promise today.

    When we contacted Didier to see if he was going to be home during our short visit to Geneva, he not only said yes, but also promised that he had a very nice, special restaurant in mind for lunch. He kept his promise.

    A 10-minute walk through the city brought us to Restaurant La Perle du Lac Genève … overlooking the lake … with France’s Mont-Blanc a hazy silhouette beyond. The food was fantastic … the ambiance was great … the camaraderie was perhaps the best part of our all-too brief reunion. Hopefully, we’ll get together again someday … without letting another 10 years pass.    Read more

  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Breakfast in our room at Hotel Suisse — Geneva.
    Notre Dame Basilica — Geneva.On the Rhône side of Pont du Mont-Blanc — Geneva.One of the water taxis that ply the river and the lake — Geneva.Grebes and swans a-swimmin' on the Rhône River — Geneva.Mateo generously shared pieces of his bread so Mui could feed the swans — Geneva.Le Jet d’Eau de Genève ... an iconic symbol of the city since 1891.Le Jet d’Eau de Genève and Lac Léman — Geneva.Le Jet d’Eau de Genève and Lac Léman — Geneva.Four Seasons Fountain ... Jardin Anglais — Geneva.Four Seasons Fountain ... Jardin Anglais — Geneva."The Key is in the Tree" sculpted by R. Schultz out of a 120-year-old sequoia — Jardin Anglais.The flower clock is actually operational — Geneva.National monument commemorating Geneva joining the Confederation of Switzerland — Geneva.Mausoleum at Jardin des Alpes that commemorate the life of Charles II, Duke of Brunswick — Geneva.Brunswick Monument at Jardin des Alpes — Geneva.Brunswick Monument and Le Jet D'Eau — Geneva.

    Geneva: Day 1 … Morning Stroll

    July 12, 2025 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Breakfast in the room … having a kitchenette made it easy; then a stroll down to Lac Léman … known to Americans as Lake Geneva. But before we got that far, we detoured to the Notre Dame Basilica when we noticed the doors were open.

    Our stroll down to the waterfront was a pleasant one … comfy temps, a light breeze, and sunshine galore. Our route took us to Pont du Mont Blanc … the bridge that marks the transition between Lac Lêman and the Rhône River. We slowly made our way across the Rhône side of the bridge, stopping frequently to take photos of the scenery … and the swans, grebes, and mallards swimming about as they eagerly grabbed any handouts that might come their way.

    Using the path under the bridge, we crossed over to the lake side for a closer look at Le Jet d’Eau de Genève … an iconic symbol of the city since 1891 that technically is a pressure relief valve for a hydraulic plant. The jet shoots water up to a maximum height of 460 feet (140 m) … at a speed of 125 mph (200 mph) where the water exits the system.

    After a detour to Jardin Anglais to check out the Four Seasons Fountain, we walked along the lake side of the bridge and returned to our hotel … this time taking a route that found us at the Jardin des Alpes, where we stopped for a few photos of the Brunswick Monument.

    Noting that the clock was ticking down towards our lunch date with Didier, we hastened our steps to complete our morning stroll in Geneva.    Read more

  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    A nice bonus on our ADB-GVA flight ... plenty of legroom and elbow room.
    Bye bye İzmir ... we'll see you again in September.Peek-a-boo view of the Alps.Peek-a-boo view of the Alps.If the iPhone location tag is to be believed, this is Matterhorn.So many receding glaciers in the Alps.2On the train from GVA to the Geneva City Center.Our quiet room with a kitchenette — Hotel Suisse.View of the train station from our room ... the Coop grocery store is in the shopping center below.

    Hello Geneva!

    July 11, 2025 in Switzerland ⋅ 🌙 72 °F

    An on-time departure from ADB … a smooth flight with no one sharing the exit row seats with us (not only more legroom, but more elbow room as it turns out) … views of the Alps (and perhaps even Matterhorn) … an on-time landing at GVA.

    What more could we ask for from a travel day?

    Well, it would have been nice if passport control at GVA had lived up to the efficiency for which the Swiss are known. It took us 1.5 hours to get from our arrival gate to the baggage carousel … and all but 10 minutes of that time was spent inching along the immigration queue, waiting for our turn to have our passports stamped by one of only four immigration agents on duty!!! With so many flights arriving at the same time, no idea why more of the 14 or so kiosks weren’t staffed this afternoon.

    The good news? Everything went smoothly once the formalities were completed. Our bags were waiting on the carousel when we arrived to collect them; we had no trouble finding the train platforms for the one-stop ride from the airport to the Geneva city center … no tickets needed thanks to the transport passes provided by our hotel … and no wait to get on a train either.

    A short walk from the train station put us at Hotel Suisse, where we will be staying for three nights … its convenient location being one of the reasons why we opted for this hotel. Check-in was quick and soon we were settling into our room on the second floor … a quiet one as requested. Then, off to Coop for groceries … just steps away from the hotel … this convenience being another reason why we opted for this hotel. Our room has a kitchenette that will come in handy for breakfast … maybe even light dinners since we plan to make lunch our main meal of the day on this trip.

    Now to get some rest. Tomorrow we’ll explore Geneva a bit … and also meet a friend for lunch.    Read more

  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Looks like we are set for an on time departure.

    Our Air Chariot Awaits!

    July 11, 2025 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 86 °F

    Or so we hope!

    Instead of boarding from a jetway, we are going to be shuttled to the aircraft by bus. That means we can’t see the plane from the terminal. Have to trust that not only is our aircraft parked on the tarmac, but that the A/C is on when we get there!Read more

  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    A glimpse into our plans for this roadtrip.

    Off Again!

    July 11, 2025 in Turkey ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Actually, we’ve been ‘off’ since 4 May … that’s when we left Colorado.

    Since then, we’ve been in İzmir, Türkiye. Our primary purpose here is to help mom as she continues her struggle with Parkinson’s.

    We don’t normally come during the summer months as it gets oppressively hot. This summer thus far has been no exception. We are trying to survive the summer heat that settled over us like an unwanted cloak almost as soon as the calendar turned from May to June. Thanks to the wall A/C unit we had installed at Mui’s sister’s apartment — our base of operations when we are in İzmir — we are surviving. Being outdoors is definitely a challenge … one that we are hoping will change later today.

    Mui and I are waiting for a taxi to pick us up momentarily to begin the ‘travel chapter’ of this trip that will see us exploring Switzerland … with a dip into Northern Italy. In other words, we’re off to seek cooler temps as we explore new-to-us places. Considering the recent heatwave in Europe, however … well, we shall see if the ‘cool quest’ bears fruit.

    Another ‘travel chapter’ will follow our CH & IT [Switzerland & Italy] roadtrip before we return to İzmir in mid-September. But that’s for a separate FindPenguins adventure, so I won’t get into it here.

    For now, I will leave you with a rough map of our planned bases of operation. Will we stick to the plan? I guess we’ll find out eventually!    Read more

  • Life in Colorado
    Our "welcome home" sunrise on 13 March — Colorado Springs, CO.
    Our "welcome home" sunrise on 13 March ... as the skies get brighter — Colorado Springs, CO.Our "welcome home" sunrise on 13 March ... changes color — Colorado Springs, CO.Colorful sunrise on 14 March — Colorado Springs, CO.Storm clouds on the horizon on 14 March — Colorado Springs, CO.And then it starts snowing suddenly ... on 14 March — Colorado Springs, CO.17 March ... another colorful start to our day — Colorado Springs, CO.17 March ... another colorful start to our day — Colorado Springs, CO.17 March ... another colorful start to our day — Colorado Springs, CO.2Aftermath of the 18 March snowstorm ... too windy to document the storm itself — Colorado Springs.

    Sunrise & Snow

    March 19, 2025 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

    The morning after we returned from Antarctica — March 13 — we had a beautiful sunrise … from deep pinks and mauves, to pastel colors, to golden hues.

    [For those who are following the Antarctic trip … yes, I am still working my way through the thousands of photos I took so that I can complete my footprints.]

    There was more color in the sky the next morning, too. But on the horizon were clouds foretelling of a storm on its way. A few hours later, it was snowing. The white stuff moved out quickly … by nightfall, any accumulation was gone.

    The cycle repeated. And then came the bombogenesis on the 18th … an unexpected snow storm … with no warning … raging through the night. No idea how much snow really fell in our area. With the winds gusting up to 60 mph, the dry snow was blown about hither and yon all night. I’m not sure if the storm fit the true definition of a bombogenesis, but it sure felt like a snow-bomb had exploded!

    The rest of the week is forecasted to have seasonal weather. We shall see.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    4

    Route Overview

    March 12, 2025 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 43 °F

    FindPenguins has a nice feature that creates a quick overview video of trip routes. No real work required on my part. Just click the button and the app does all the work.

    Now that the trip is in the rearview mirror and all of the footprints are complete, I thought it would make for a fun end to this journal … the last footprint for this trip.Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    At IAH as the sun rises through the raindrops — Houston, Texas.
    The rising sun colors the grey metal of the 757-300 that we are flying to DEN.Pikes Peak in the distance signals we are almost home.Welcome to DEN! — Denver, Colorado.

    Onward to Colorado & Home

    March 12, 2025 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 45 °F

    True to their word, at 5:00a, the crew opened the aircraft doors and we began deplaning from our EZE-IAH flight.

    Going through immigration was the easiest it’s ever been with Global Entry. We didn’t even have to take out our passports, or use one of the DIY kiosks. Instead, we got in the Global Entry line, walked up to a camera that took a photo, turned around and gave our last name to an immigration officer, and got the wave to continue.

    Collecting bags at the first point of entry is such an antiquated process when there is customs service available at your final destination. In this instance, however, we didn’t mind as we wanted to see if we could jump on the 7:15a flight to DEN. Turns out that we could, although the only seats available were clear in the back … a window and a middle seat … two rows apart. It was sad to give up our exit seats, but oh well. Short flight anyway!

    Having re-checked our bags, we turned the corner to go through security. OMG! What a disaster! No TSA Pre✓at that particular check-point. A long, slow-moving line. It was 5:35a. Boarding for our flight was at 6:25a. Would we make it?

    Long story short, we did. But it was a stressful 25 minutes … and then we had to hot-foot it to our gate in Terminal C.

    More …. when I get home!

    At 🏠 ….

    It’s now 8:00p MST. We landed at DEN almost 12 hours ago.

    My body is still on BsAs time, however, and thinks that it is 11:00p. “Bedtime,” it says to me. But I want to stay up for another hour to better synchronize to local time. Best to keep occupied. What better way to do that than to write about the end of today’s story

    The UA agent who switched us from the later flight to the 7:15a flight had suggested that we might be able to switch to better seats at the gate … adding, “Passengers often miss this connection.” As it turns out, we were able to change the middle seat to a window exit.

    Our 2-hour flight was uneventful. I did a bit of writing to while away the time, but mostly looked out the porthole and enjoyed the scenery. Surprisingly, I took very few photos … my ‘shutter finger’ just wanted to rest, I guess!

    A glimpse of Pikes Peak signaled that we were at home. Not really, though. UA2433 still had a short distance to go to DEN to land and then we’d be making our way back home to Colorado Springs.

    We were wheels down at 8:30a … at the gate by 8:41a … all bags accounted for by 9:10a. We had texted our driver, Vincent, while in Houston to alert him to the change of plans, so he was standing by to drive us home.

    By 10:30a, about the time we would have taken off from IAH had we not switched flights, we were at home sweet home … bringing our trip to a conclusion.

    Unpacking our bags will be the true sign of the end of our trip. But that can wait until tomorrow!    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Just a short distance to go before we land at IAH.
    On the ground at IAH — Houston, Texas.We have to wait until 5:00a before we can deplane ... @ IAH — Houston, Texas.

    Hello Houston!

    March 12, 2025 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    I had my longest and best sleep on a flight ever. Must have been really tired. We had about 1.5 hours left to land at IAH when the cabin lights came on and I decided to get up. Mui was just getting up as well.

    By the time we finished folding and putting away our bed linens, it was our turn to be served breakfast. Mui took the omelet option as he always does; I opted for the French Toast with vanilla and blueberry sauce. It was quite tasty, but just a bit too sweet at 3:50a CST.

    An hour later, we were on the ground, taxiing to Terminal E at IAH. By 4:50a, we were at our gate.

    At the moment, we are on hold at the gate. We have to wait until 5:00a to deplane because immigration and customs officials come on duty at that hour.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer

    On Our Way to IAH

    March 11, 2025 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    It’s getting on towards midnight … Argentinian time. Texas is two hours behind; Colorado three hours. My eyes are starting to get heavy, but before I succumb to sleep, let me catch up today’s travel story.

    Boarding began on time. As is the case with most USA-bound flights, there was a last minute security check as we made our way to the counter to scan our boarding passes. Usually, these checks are done randomly. However, everyone had to go through the process tonight. It was a cursory check, really, so we were on our way without much of a delay.

    Soon enough, we were in our Polaris seats and getting settled. When the flight attendant for our section came around with bubbly, we each took a glass to toast the conclusion of a successful Antarctic expedition. A great swansong adventure to the region. Should have taken a photo … as Jan would say, “If there is no proof, it didn’t happen.”

    The 777-200 pushed back at 8:55a … ahead of the 9:05p scheduled departure, and we were wheels up at 9:10p. A good omen for an on time arrival.

    As UA818 climbed up to its cruising altitude, we enjoyed the twinkling lights of Buenos Aires spread out below us. Before long, we were leveled off and the flight attendants were coming around with warm nuts and beverages. The meal service followed soon after. Dessert was the best part of the meal … ice cream with chocolate sauce.

    During dinner, I finished the movie I had started after we took off … Jessica Lange, Kathy Bates, Pierce Brosnan in “The Great Lillian Hall” … the story of an actress who finds herself suddenly diagnosed with a form of dementia as she is preparing for a major new role. The story is apparently inspired by the life of the late American stage actress, Marian Seldes.

    Now, the movie is finished; my bed is made up; I’ve got my United jammies on. Time to get some sleep.The app shows the flight duration as 10 hours and 30 minutes. However, before take off, the cockpit announced that we would cover the 5,066-mile distance to IAD in 9 hours and 44 minutes. If that’s accurate, we still have 7+ hours to go. Plenty of time for a good snooze that should keep me going until we get home tomorrow. Mui’s already snoozing, so he’ll be rearing to go, too.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Pretty much a straight shot from EZE to IAH.

    Killing Time @ EZE

    March 11, 2025 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Funny coincidence … Karin & Wilco, our neighbors on Ortelius, are apparently in the room next door at the Posada … once again our neighbors. We found that out when they came down to breakfast shortly after us.

    Our request for a late checkout could only be accommodated until 1:30p as someone else was due into the room at 2:00p. Oh well. At least we didn’t have to check out at 11:00a and were able to prep for our travel day at a leisurely pace.

    The hotel’s transfer van took us to EZE @ 1:00p. Who should we run into when we entered the terminal but Maria and Jan, new friends we made on Ortelius. They were waiting to check their bags, but had an hour to go before they could do so. We had four hours to wait because the counter wasn’t due to open until 5:05p. So, we joined forces and went to Pan de Quotidien for a light lunch. In short order, we were joined by Karin & Wilco, and Ingrid, another fellow passenger.

    Around 2:00p, we said our farewells to everyone as they left to check-in or make their way to security. We went for a stroll to stretch our legs and find a quiet spot where we could while away a bit more time.

    Eventually, it was our turn to go to the counters designated for UA to leave our bags in the care of the airline. Easy peasy. Going through security was was easy … very few people in the queue, and things moved along quickly. Then came immigration! We were first directed to the e-kiosks to complete the immigration process on our own, and then it was just a matter of going to an e-gate where our facial scans were matched to the passport scan. In no time at all, the formalities were completed.

    We walked through Duty Free and picked up a bottle of Amarula. But the check-out line was so long that we returned the bottle to the shelf and left empty-handed. A short walk then took us to the Star Alliance Lounge … which could do with a refresh. Not much in the way of snacks and stuff, but at least the seats were comfortable and it was better to while away our time until boarding here instead of at the gate.

    Speaking of boarding … it is scheduled to commence at 8:15p … in 45 minutes time. More once we are on the plane.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    A comfortable enough room for an overnight stay at Posada de las Aguilas @ EZE - Buenos Aires.

    Settled in @ the Posada

    March 10, 2025 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 66 °F

    After an uneventful flight from USH, AR1887 landed at EZE close to its scheduled arrival of 9:45p. We deplaned onto the tarmac and were transferred to domestic arrivals by bus.

    It took awhile for the bags to show up, but once the conveyor belt started moving it wasn’t too long of a wait for our bags to arrive in quick succession.

    Next step was to call the hotel for the included transfer. We tried the number we were given several times — using WhatsApp and WePhone — but got no answer. It was already past 10:30p, so we decided not to wait around.

    Arranging for a ride at the Taxi Ezeiza stand just outside the secure luggage claim area, we had a speedy drive to Posada de las Aguilas (Inn of the Eagles). The good news is that when we explained that no one had answered the phone, the woman at the front desk apologized and immediately refunded the cost of the ride to us in cash, so we are not out of pocket for that expense.

    Assigned to room 11 on the first floor — top floor of this place — we left the two bags we won’t be needing at the check-in desk and followed our escort through the grounds to our room … which has everything we could want for an overnight stay. Because we have an evening flight tomorrow, I booked us a superior king room so we have a comfy place to kill time. We have requested a late checkout, but won’t know until we go down for breakfast as to the actual time we have to leave. It is dependent on availability of the room.

    In any event, it is now past midnight and time for bed. We have no intention of setting the alarm for tomorrow morning. Breakfast is served until 11:00a, so we can have a leisurely morning.

    By the way, we got a nice surprise when we landed and cell service was once again restored. We have been upgraded to Polaris business for our flight to Houston tomorrow night! Thank you United!    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Farewell selfie at USH with Luce and Taras — Ushuaia, Argentina.
    Dark skies as AR1887 begins its run for take off from USH — Ushuaia, Argentina.Whitecaps in the Beagle Channel is often a sign of a rough Drake Passage crossing to Antarctica.

    Aboard AR 1887: Farewell Ushuaia

    March 10, 2025 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 41 °F

    Arriving at 1210 Avenida Maipu shortly before 2:00p, we went inside to collect our lugagge. It was easy enough to find them as there were very few bags left. It was then a quick Uber ride to the airport.

    The check-in line at USH wasn’t too long, but it was moving at a snail’s pace. No worries. We had plenty of time to kill. When our turn came, we checked our bags and asked for exit row seats … quickly granted by the agent.

    There was no line at security, so we were done with the formalities in no time. There were a few familiar faces as we wandered around the small concourse. We stopped to chat with fellow passengers, and also spent time with Luce, one of the dive guides, and Taras, Ortelius’s third officer. Then, finding a couple of seats near an outlet, we whiled away the time surfing the web while charging up our phones.

    Around 5:00p, we moved over to gate 6. Embarkation was scheduled to start at 5:30p. With no aircraft at the jetway, however, it was obvious that there was going to be a delay.

    The B737 that was to whisk us away arrived around 5:45p. Once boarding was called, it went smoothly. The aircraft pushed back at 6:32p, but then we had to wait on the apron for a military aircraft to land before we could continue onto the runway. It was 6:50p before we were wheels up.

    The flight has thus far been uneventful. The itinerary showed the flight duration as 3 hrs and 30 mins … the cockpit said it would be 2 hrs and 55 mins. That means we should touch down at EZE more or less on time.

    More when we get to our hotel …    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    L to R: Ocean Endeavour, Viking Octantis, Ortelius, & Ocean Nova ... all heading south later today.
    Memorial to a ship that went down with all hands in the Strait of Magellan in 1949 — Ushuaia.Gulls along the Beagle Channel — Ushuaia, Argentina.Memorial to a Fuegian musician — Ushuaia, Argentina.Home of an early settler (1927) saved instead of being demolished — Ushuaia, Argentina.Mural depicting the train that took prisoners to Tierra del Fuego to chop down trees — Ushuaia.Symbols of the land ... winds cause trees to be mis-shapen; Fuegian fox — Ushuaia, Argentina.The Prison at the End of the World ... now a museum — Ushuaia, Argentina.The Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia, Argentina.Top: What's left of the prisoner train; Bottom: Traction Engine ... Presidio — Ushuaia, Argentina.Replica of the San Juan de Salvamento Lighthouse ... Presidio — Ushuaia, Argentina.The Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia, Argentina.The Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia, Argentina.The Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia, Argentina.The Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia, Argentina."Lost Hopes" ... @ the Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia, Argentina."Mara, Smoke in Tifffany" by Diego Buey @ the Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia."Fitz Roy ... Return of the Beagle 1831" @ the Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia."Mission of Ushuaia & the Bridges Family" @ the Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia.Wooden door built by the convicts for the entrance of the Parochial Church of Ushuaia @ the PresidioPainted penguins @ the Prison at the End of the World (Presidio) — Ushuaia.View from the grounds of Maria Lola Restaurant — Ushuaia, Argentina.

    Cold Day Exploring Ushuaia

    March 10, 2025 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 37 °F

    With our flight to Buenos Aires scheduled for 6:15p, we had plenty of time to kill in Ushuaia.

    Our original plan was to throw our luggage in a rental car and drive out to Tierra del Fuego National Park to do some hiking. However, checking the forecast a few days ago, the weather looked less than ideal for spending time outdoors. So, we canceled the rental and came up with a new plan that involved visiting the old Presidio; sipping hot beverages at a café; sating our tummies at a nice restaurant; and treating ourselves to ice cream at Almendra.

    The new plan required that we find luggage storage somewhere in town … a problem that was resolved when EL Sara announced that we could leave our bags at the Oceanwide-contracted storage location until 2:00p.

    It turned out to be a typical Ushuaia-weather-day … with everything from sleet to rain, to overcast skies; to the sun peeking out at times. Rinse and repeat. And strong, cold wind gusts as we walked down the pier after disembarking Ortelius.

    Once off the pier, the wind wasn’t too bad, so we followed the waterfront to take photos of Ortelius and today’s batch of expedition vessels that would be heading south before the end of the day. Along the way, gulls and southern lapwings provided entertainment.

    Leaving the waterfront, we walked up to the Presidio next. I had a hunch that we were probably going to be too early. But what the heck! A little uphill walking never hurt anyone. I was right. The doors would be opening at 10:00a. That was 45 minutes away.

    To kill time, we walked over to Avenida San Martín in search of hot beverages. We found what we were looking for at Ana y Juana. The place turned out to be a good choice and we whiled away more time than we intended as I took advantage of the good wi-fi to upload all of my draft FP footprints.

    By the time we returned to the Presidio — officially the Cárcel del Fin del Mundo (the End of the World Prison) — it was getting on towards 11:00a. We purchased our admission and went in for a whirlwind look-see.

    The prison dates back to when Ushuaia was a penal colony. Operating between 1902 to 1947, it consisted of five wings radiating from a central hall … with 386 cells housing roughly 600 inmates at its peak. Today, it houses a collection of museums under the auspices of Museo Marítimo y del Presidio de Ushuaia. As such, it is one of the a major tourist draws for anyone who spends any appreciable time in the city.

    We started out by checking out the artifacts scattered around the courtyards … such as an engine and train car from back in the day when they were used to transport prisoners to Tierra del Fuego to chop down trees; and a replica of an old lighthouse that was built in 1884 … operated through 1992.

    Inside, skipping the Maritime Museum, which we explored in-depth in 2007, we wandered through the Prison Museum … some of the wings restored; others still pending renovation. The Antarctica Museum was seemingly missing a number of the exhibits we saw in 2007. The Art Museum had several new exhibits, and some of the prison cells were painted with murals depicting historic scenes from the early days of the penal colony. Unfortunately, the Art Gallery was closed until 3:00p, so we did not get to see that part of the museum.

    We left the museum around noon for our 12:30p lunch reservation at Maria Lola at 12:30p. We arrived 15 minutes ahead of schedule, so we waited a bit, wandering the grounds and taking photos of the view of the city while we waited for the restaurant to open.

    By 12:35p, there was still no sign of activity … nor a sign to explain why the restaurant wasn’t opening. Bearing in mind the luggage pick up deadline of 2:00p, we gave up on Maria Lola. Doña Lupita, the empanada place where we had lunch pre-expedition, was not far. So, we headed there instead. Soon enough, we were ordering our empanadas … fried please … though my choclo [corn] empanada was baked. Good, simple food.

    Next up … sweet treats at Almendra, the ice cream shop … and then a quick stop at La Anonima for a couple of bottles of water. It was now 1:30p … time to head to the storage place and collect our luggage.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Hello Ushuaia ... from Ortelius at the pier.
    Hello Ushuaia ... from Ortelius at the pier.The bags are offloaded and waiting to be identified ... disembarkation soon — Ushuaia, Argentina.Map showing landings and zodiac cruises ... from our expedition trip log.

    RWSE Day 28: 5,489.6 NM Later …

    March 10, 2025 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 37 °F

    All good things must come to an end!

    And so it has for the first-ever Remote Weddell Sea Explorer expedition … in Ushuaia … where we started 28 days ago.

    We were up well before EL Sara’s wake up call at 7:15a. Last minute items placed in the bags; zippers pulled and locked; weights verified … all under the airline limit of 15 kg. We placed the bags in the hallway outside our cabin and went up to the bar to get out of the way of the staff and crew rushing to move bags into the reception foyer … the staging area until the conveyor belt could be extended to start offloading everything.

    Breakfast was announced at 7:30a. It was a hurried affair. Now that the expedition was truly at an end, everyone was anxious to get going. At 8:10a, EL Sara made the first call for disembarkation.

    Captain Remmert was at reception, shaking hands and bidding everyone safe travels. We reciprocated … wishing godspeed to him and the ship’s complement on their return to the Antarctic. All indications are that Ortelius is in for a rough crossing back down to the peninsula.

    Finding our bags in the line up on the pier, we took them to the truck that would be transferring them to Avenida Maipú 1210 for storage. Satisfied that the bags were loaded, we then went around, bidding farewell to shipmates and the expedition team before heading off on the long walk from the ship’s berth to the port gate.

    The wind was blowing strong. It was downright cold. For a minute, it felt like we were back in Antarctica. We really could have used another layer of clothing in Ushuaia today.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer

    RWSE Day 27: Charcot Wants an Answer

    March 9, 2025 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    First though … here’s a link to the passenger slide show Expedition Team member Claudio screened for us tonight (the file is too big to post here):https://eenusa.smugmug.com/Antarctica/RWSE/FP-J…. I hope you enjoy it!

    And now … for Charcot’s question.

    I read the following quote by Charcot not too long ago …

    “Why then do we feel this strange attraction for these polar regions, a feeling so powerful and lasting that when we return home we forget the mental and physical hardships, and want nothing more than to return to them? Why are we so susceptible to the charm of these landscapes when they are so empty and terrifying?” ~~ Jean-Baptiste Charcot ~~

     I’m not sure I have an answer to his question.

    Even after four trips to these southerly latitudes … even after this expedition to one of the most remote regions of the world … the conundrum remains unanswered in my mind.

     The polar regions — both south and north … and I include Greenland and Svalbard in here as well — have certainly held an attraction that has brought us back to the icy scapes of the world again and again.

     Perhaps we were infected with ‘the incurable ice virus’ that I read about as we were preparing for our first Antarctic expedition. Perhaps we ‘fell into the clutches’ of the peaceful, pristine, and quiet nature of these regions. Perhaps we were ‘captivated’ by the wildlife that seemed completely impervious to our presence. Perhaps we just wanted to be different and see places that most people don’t think about much … let alone visit. Perhaps it is all of the above. One thing is for sure, however, it wasn’t the weather and sea conditions — at times quite horrendous — that led to our repeated ‘scratch the polar itch’ adventures.

     When we set off on our first Antarctic expedition, we thought it would be a once-in-a-lifetime journey. That proved wrong … so very, very wrong.

    Will there be another polar journey like this one sometime in the future?

    Only time will tell!    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    2A colorful sunrise greets us on our second day in the Drake Passage.
    A fun wake up call from Tennessee and Gary.A unique lecture from Allan was first up on our second day in the Drake Passage.Design concept for "The Turtle & The Eagle."Historic photos and the route followed by the cruiser to Boston.Loaded on a boat, the cruiser is taken to the Antarctic.The expedition was in response to the German Neuschwabenland Expedition.The planned route for using "The Turtle & The Eagle" in Antarctica.Over designed; under tested ; rushed into service ... things didn't go to plan.Title slide from Becky Kagan-Schott's presentation about the diving activities.The divers not only wore a dry suit, but a heated under-suit.From Becky's "Deep Weddell Sea Scuba Diving & Snorkeling" presentation.From Becky's "Deep Weddell Sea Scuba Diving & Snorkeling" presentation.Becky in the icy waters ... from the "Deep Weddell Sea Scuba Diving & Snorkeling" presentation.From Becky's "Deep Weddell Sea Scuba Diving & Snorkeling" presentation.From Becky's "Deep Weddell Sea Scuba Diving & Snorkeling" presentation.The heli team that was key to some of our best memories from this expedition.Quebec (above) and Tango (bottom left) and Sierra preparing to take off from Ortelius one last time.Bidding the helicopters adios as they leave Ortelius for the last time.Southern giant petrel using the winds to stay afloat.With our Dutch friends ... Marianne & Jon.Land ahoy! We're in the Beagle Channel.A colorful sunset before nightfall envelopes the scenery.One last dinner with shipmates on Ortelius.The navigation chart and the bow flag were auctioned to raise money for the SG Heritage Trust.

    RWSE Day 27: Drake Passage Day 2

    March 9, 2025 in Argentina ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    “An Antarctic expedition is the worst way to have the best time of your life.”
    ~~ Apsley Cherry-Garrard ~~

    Woke up to a colorful morning … the hues quickly changing from pastel pinks to bright yellows and deep oranges. What a great way to start the last day of our expedition!

    I braved the wind to go out and get a couple of quick sunrise shots before retreating to the cabin. Having crossed the Atlantic Convergence overnight, the temperature had warmed up from the previous days … but the windchill from by the 25-knot wind was enough to encourage a day indoors. Otherwise, the conditions weren’t bad. Certainly, the sea was slight … with gentle swells to remind us that we were still on a ship, cruising toward South America.

    Our official wake up call this morning was an interesting one … courtesy of Tennessee and Gary … the former imitating the voice of Sir David Attenborough; the latter imitating the calls of penguins and birds. They made quite the comedy team.

    After breakfast, we joined Allan for a presentation titled “The Curious Case of Admiral Byrd’s Antarctic Snow Cruiser” … an intriguing and unusual topic that we had never heard or read about previously. He regaled us with the story of a ground-breaking engineering project … part of the 1939 US Antarctic Service Expedition led by Admiral Richard Byrd. The images Allan shared of the 55-foot, 30-ton, diesel-electric cruiser — which failed to live up to expectations — could well have been something out of science fiction … except that there were historic photos of the vehicle to back up his presentation.

    (For those interested, here’s a link to more information about Byrd’s Cruiser: https://www.antarcticacruises.com/guide/antarct….)

    I previously mentioned that we have a group of passengers on the ship who have been diving in the icy Antarctic waters. Following Allan’s presentation, Becky Kagan-Schott, one of the leaders of the group and an underwater photographer of some note, gave a brief presentation … featuring some incredible photographs.

    Around 2:00p, Ortelius began its approach to the Beagle Channel. Most of us went up on the deck behind the bridge to bid the helicopter team adios. It was a bitter sweet farewell. We enjoyed getting to know them, and appreciate the work they put in to ensure our flights were not only fun, but safe in the harsh Antarctic conditions.

    As Ortelius entered the Beagle Channel, the usually sheltered waters showed whitecaps; the wind was strong, making it difficult to stand on the foredecks. But we persevered as the channel was filled with whales … mostly blows; occasional fins and flukes … all distant, but visible to the naked eye.

    At 6:15p, when we would have normally gathered for the daily recap, we all came together in the bar for Captain Remmert’s farewell cocktail party. The highlight of the event was the expedition slideshow that Claudio put together. It brought back the wonderful memories we made on this voyage. After dinner, expedition members were standing by in the lounge to copy the slideshow and a few other files to our personal devices.

    Before the end of the evening, those who had bid generously on the expedition flag that’s been flying on the bow since we left Ushuaia and the navigational chart for the voyage received their items. The money raised by the auction — held while we were in SGI — will benefit the South Georgia Heritage Trust.

    Ortelius has yet to dock in Ushuaia. The lights are twinkling off in the distance, however, so I am sure we’ll get there soon enough. In the meantime … one last sleep for us aboard the ship.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    It's pretty much a straight shot through the Drake Passage to Ushuaia.
    From Gary's presentation about his research into IBD.From Gary's presentation about his research into IBD.From Gary's presentation about his research into IBD.Capturing an adult emperor penguin is no easy matter — from Gary's IBD presentation.Emperor penguin chicks in a huddle once they are old enough to be left alone.Emperor penguin chick waiting for its turn to be sampled — from Gary's IBD presentation.Taking emperor penguin chicks to be sampled — from Gary's IBD presentation.Tennessee looks awfully comfortable on the glacier — from the Life in the Freezer presentation.From Tennessee's Life in the Freezer presentation.Union Glacier Basecamp ... from the air and from the ground.Day trip to the South Pole — from the Life in the Freezer presentation.Wandering Albatross ... screenshot of title slide for today's daily recap.Relief from the purple monster is ahead of us — from the daily recap.From Phil's Greenland briefing during the daily recap.The expedition that is credited with launching modern oceanography.Route of HMS Challenger's four-year scientific expedition.Dr Angel explains her plankton research to the rest of us.

    RWSE Day 26: Rollin’ Drake Passage

    March 8, 2025, Drake Passage ⋅ 🌬 43 °F

    “Notorious for violent storms, which quickly turn a moderate sea into
violent confusion, turmoil and mountainous waves.” ~~ Sir Ernest Shackleton … describing the Drake Passage ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    The sea state wasn’t bad, but it was blowing about 35 knots. There was a bit of wet stuff falling … on and off … enough to turn the decks icy as the temperature was barely above freezing. Best to stay inside. So that is what we did … occasionally going up to the bridge to check out the forward views as Ortelius cleaved its way through the Drake Passage. Neither the whale blows, nor the wanderers, gray-headed and black-browed albatrosses were a strong enough inducement to go outside.

    EL Sara had planned a full day of lectures for us, so we were kept busy.

    First up after breakfast was Gary who gave a presentation about his 2008 research into the emperor penguins of the Auster Rookery … near Australia’s Mawson Station in East Antarctica. His talk gave us insight into “ … the status of diseases in the Auster rookery, specifically investigating the prevalence of Infectious Bursal Disease Virus (IBDV).”

    After studying the four sets of samples taken throughout different life cycles of the penguins, it was determined that antibodies to IBD were present in all, and that the antibodies in adults increased significantly through the year … not so much in the chicks.

    (For anyone interested, here’s a link to a synopsis of the study: https://www.antarctica.gov.au/magazine/issue-15….)

    Tennessee was up next with a presentation entitled “Life in the Freezer.” With some amazing photos as visual aids, he talked about the time he spent working at the Union Glacier Basecamp just weeks before he joined our RWSE. The camp can accommodate 70 guests in double-walled clam tents. The guests are flown in to the camp, which is near a blue-ice runway. That it is cold goes without saying … after all, the glacier is just 690 miles from the South Pole.

    Why go to Union Glacier? To experience what I would consider ‘extreme wilderness adventures’ in the remote interior of the continent … such as hiking over blue ice, skydiving, flying to the South Pole for a day. Would we do this? Nah … we like our adventures ‘soft’.

    Before lunch we took care of some logistics matters … returning our muck boots and helicopter landing cards since we will need neither for what remains of our expedition.

    Much of the afternoon was free. We used the time to pack our bags for disembarkation … now just two sleeps away. Mui then took a nap; I sorted through photos … doing a virtual visit to some of the unique places to which this expedition took us. I was so engrossed in my ‘virtual trip’ that I missed Chloé’s talk … “Umwelt: How Animals Might Sense the World.”

    At the daily recap, EL Sara shared once again a screenshot from Windy. Looks like we still have a it of the purple monster ahead of us … though there is a promise of improving conditions around the tip of South America and in the Beagle Channel.

    Phil kicked off the recap briefings by sharing a bit more about his time in Greenland.

    Tennessee followed with a quick snippet about the HMS Challenger Grand Tour of 1872–1876 … a scientific voyage that spanned the globe … covering nearly 69,000 nautical miles. The purpose of the expedition was to study the deep sea, leading to the discovery of 4,700+ new species. It also mapped the ocean depths. The expedition is credited with launching modern oceanography.

    Clara then assisted Dr Angel Yanagihara, an associate researcher at the University of Hawaii, with her brief presentation. Angel is one of the passengers on Ortelius, but she’s been on the ship for a while now for the purposes of conducting a research project entitled “Plankton Observations of Lifecycles and Ecobiomes (POLEs): Mapping Polar Coastal Marine Biomes.”

    By the way, today’s Daily Program came with instructions for disembarking Ortelius on 10 March. Our flight to Buenos Aires is in the afternoon, so we will take advantage of the luggage storage service, but will need to make our own way to the airport at the appropriate time. We were hoping to do some hiking at Tierra del Fuego National Park, but I don’t think the 2:00p pick-up deadline for luggage storage is going to work. We’ll have to rethink our sightseeing plans.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Bringing the zodiacs aboard one last time on this expedition — Elephant Island.
    We have another "purple monster storm" between us and the tip of South America.The results of the Helicopter Photo Contest.Sometimes you really have to work for your breakfast ... from Phil's presentation.From Clara's presentation about "Una Ventana al Mar" ... an educational project.Clara shared this amazing image from the Beagle Channel in her presentation, "Una Ventana al Mar."After 497 days on sea/ice, Shackleton & his men arrive at Elephant Isl. (Tennessee's presentation).Shackleton and 5 men set off from Elephant Island to seek help (Tennessee's presentation).Surviving on Elephant Island (Tennessee's presentation).The men created huts on Elephant Island by overturning the boats (Tennessee's presentation)."All's Well" ... arrival of Yelcho on 30 August 1916 (Tennessee's presentation).To the Drake Passage we start to make our way.

    Day 25: Heading to the Drake Passage

    March 7, 2025, Drake Passage ⋅ 🌬 37 °F

    By lunch time, everyone who was willing to brave the elements for a closer glimpse of Elephant Island was back on board. In the worsening conditions, getting the zodiacs back on the ship was a challenge … one that the crew accomplished while we were having lunch.

    And then it was time to head north across the Drake Passage. We have two full days ahead of us to reach Ushuaia, Argentina to complete the expedition where we started.

    Our afternoon at sea was filled with workshops … followed by Dr Amar’s presentation about “Cold Water Immersion.” Mui and I used the afternoon to rest before the recap.

    EL Sara kicked off the daily recap by showing us a screenshot from the Windy app. The gist of what we were seeing … we’ll be heading into rough seas and strong winds. Mother Nature is not going to be kind to us … which means that we will have no time for off-ship activities on our way north.

    Phil went first for the recap briefings, showing us what it takes to get something as simple as breakfast in polar regions … let’s just say there’s a lot of shoveling involved.

    Clara was next … sharing with us the goals of an educational project in which she is involved — “Una Ventana al Mar” (Window to the Sea). The group is working on a web page that will provide online resources for free download, and hopes to expand the project to other regions by working with researchers and teachers.

    Tennessee — who was still on a “I finally made it to Elephant Island” high — wrapped up with a topic apropos to today’s visit to Elephant Island. Using historic images taken by Frank Hurley, the photographer on the Endurance Expedition, he told the story of the rescue of the 22 men Shackleton left behind on the island when he and 5 others braved the Southern Ocean to go in search of help. I didn’t realize that there were three unsuccessful rescue attempts prior to the one aboard the Yelcho … which successfully evacuated the men nearly 4.5 months after they made land on Elephant Island.

    After the excitement of the past 20 days or so, we are looking forward to some downtime … which will be punctuated with lectures and … hopefully some interesting sightings.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    First glimpse of Elephant Island — South Shetlands.
    A forbidding land — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.Endurance Glacier — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.One of the many glaciers streaming down to the ocean — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.Penguin colony @ Elephant Island, South Shetlands.Chinstrap penguins — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.Antarctic fur seal posing by the Pardo Monument — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.The Pardo Monument — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.Gentoo and chinstrap penguins and fur seals — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.Can you see the leopard seal patrolling the shoreline? — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.Leopard seal on the hunt — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.RIP little penguin — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.Making our way back to Ortelius — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.Zodiacs returning to Ortelius ... waiting to be hauled up — Elephant Island, South Shetlands.2017 Memories: a zodiac cruise in the ice; a landing at Cape Lookout — Elephant Island.

    RWSE Day 25: Elephant Island

    March 7, 2025, Scotia Sea ⋅ 🌬 36 °F

    "Soon after we were hauling ashore the scant amount that was left of our stores and dragging our boats on to what appeared to us the promised land. We did not know Elephant Island then - that it was nothing more than a gigantic mass of rock, carrying
    on its back a vast sheet of ice." ~~ excerpt from Endurance by Frank Worsley ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    After Endurance sank on 21 November 1915, Shackleton and his men endured the hardships of living in ice floe camps and trudging across the ice in an attempt to reach land … unsuccessfully. With the ice floe they were on breaking apart, on 9 April 1916, they took to the three boats they had been man-hauling and set off for the nearest land they could find. Five harrowing days later, they reached Elephant Island.

    Part of the South Shetland Islands, Elephant Island was far from an ideal place. It was bleak … it was barren … and it was far removed from shipping routes. With little hope of being rescued from the island, Shackleton set off in one of the boats with five of his men to seek help from the whaling stations on South Georgia Island … some 800 miles away.

    The 22 men who remained on Elephant Island somehow managed to survive the perilous conditions until their rescue on 30 August 1916.

    Our own trip to Elephant Island was nowhere near as difficult. Ortelius cleaved through the stormy waters overnight and brought us to this desolate piece of land in the early hours of the morning. It was overcast and foggy. It was cold. It was snowing. Swells crashed ashore in great splashes. And there was a katabatic wind coming down the peaks. In other words, typical conditions for Elephant Island.

    Like Shackleton and his men did all those years ago, we rounded Cape Valentine, and made our way to Point Wild … where the 22 men clung to life while they awaited rescue.

    EL Sara, went off with Allan and Tennessee, to scout out the conditions. It certainly seemed to us like we would be ship-bound. However, they found an area in the lee of the rocks where conditions were within operational parameters for a quick zodiac cruise … just long enough to get us close to shore to take a peek around the area and give us a glimpse of the monument to Captain Luis Pardo — of the Chilean Navy tug, Yelcho — who rescued Shackleton’s men.

    The zodiac ride was bumpy … the swells about 6.5 feet. Once we passed through a narrow channel, conditions were better. The rock and boulder-strewn beach at Point Wild, where the 22 men lived in overturned boats, was filled with Chinstrap penguins and Antarctic fur seals. We got a decent view of the monument to Pardo … against a backdrop of blue glacier ice. Offshore, there were a couple of leopard seals hunting in the water … at least one hapless Chinnie was caught by one of the predators.

    I had kept my fingers crossed that on this second visit to Elephant Island Mother Nature would be kinder to us. It wasn’t meant to be. But perhaps that wasn’t such a bad thing. We certainly got a feel for the conditions Shackleton’s men had to endure … not for a couple of hours like we did, but for four and a half months.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Title slide for Gary's presentation.
    Slide for Gary's presentation.Slide for Gary's presentation.Title slide for today's recap.Fingers crossed conditions improve by the time we get to Elephant Island.Recap briefing about an important weather element in Antarctic waters.There's little to stop winds from circling around the Antarctic continent.Katabatics are cold, dense winds that flow downhill due to gravity.Yes ... we've got some rough seas tonight — Antarctica.

    RWSE Day 24: Into the Storm We Go

    March 6, 2025, Southern Ocean ⋅ 🌬 34 °F

    After lunch, workshops were held for those interested in crevasse rescue; helicopters; video editing; first aid. Mui used the time to take a nap … I took the time to download photos.

    Shortly before 4:00p, Gary announced his lecture with what we later learned was the territorial warning call of an adult skua. His topic was “The Truth About South Polar Skuas” … birds that he has studied extensively and which he deems as being very intelligent. In fact, Gary is widely regarded as a leading authority of these birds. I’ve never been a fan of skuas, but he gave us some thoughts to ponder that might change the way I look at these birds in the future.

    The lecture was followed by the daily recap.

    EL Sara’s announcement that we will be arriving at Elephant Island early tomorrow morning was greeted by cheers. But she had some bad news, too. Weather and sea conditions were looking far from optimal. She won’t know what activities, if any, will be possible until we get there and check out the conditions for ourselves.

    Recap was wrapped up with a presentation entitled “Windpower??? Or the Power of Wind!” That the wind is a defining force in these latitudes was the take away from the presentation.

    This will be our second time at Elephant Island. I hope it will be kinder to us this time.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    A brief glimpse of color before the overcast takes over — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.
    Every time a floe approaches, the gangway has to be pulled up to avert damage — Weddell Sea.We're entertained by wildlife rafting by Ortelius — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Zodiacs waiting to load up — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Fur seal asleep on a floe — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.My, what sharp teeth you have! ... fur seal on a floe — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Ice sculpture — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Piles of ice — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Ice sculpture — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Ice sculpture — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Ortelius waiting for us — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Bobbing on the ocean — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Ice sculpture — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Hot chocolate with rum and whipped cream — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Ice sculpture — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Cruising in the pack ice — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Cruising in the pack ice — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Zodiacs waiting to be brought back aboard — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Pintado petrels resting on the water — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.A clear blue stripe indicates heavily compressed ice — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Splish, splash — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Fulmar on the wing near an ice sculpture — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.A giant tabular on the horizon — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.Big splash along the edge of an iceberg — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.

    RWSE Day 24: Dallying in the Pack Ice

    March 6, 2025, Southern Ocean ⋅ 🌬 32 °F

    “It was a first-rate tragedy, but tragedy was not our business.” ~~ Apsley Cherry-Garrard … on the fate of Captain Robert Scott ~~ (from the Daily Program)

    A bit of color at sunrise! But that color did not last long. It was one of those days where overcast skies dominated. The wind was strong … EL Sara reported 35-40 knots when she made her morning announcement. And Ortelius pretty much danced on 3-5m swells that the bridge described as “choppy!”

    Still cruising within the generally accepted boundaries of the Weddell Sea pack ice, we would be dallying in the area to avoid the ‘purple monster’ to our north … wreaking havoc in the South Shetlands. By contrast, we had it ‘easy’.

    The ice was looser … the floes were moving fast … some with seals taking a ride on them. Initially, loading the zodiacs was a breeze and those passengers quickly went off on their bumpy ride. Challenging times awaited the rest of us as floes of all sizes closed in along Ortelius … one after another.

    The gangway was lowered between floes, but had to be pulled back up to avoid damage when another floe began approaching. The zodiac that was loading had to move away until the all clear was sounded. Drivers waiting their turn to load ‘played bumper cars’ with the smaller floes in an attempt to re-direct them. At other times, they revved their motors to get out of the way of a floe. Rinse and repeat, It took a while for the rest of us to get away for our ice cruise, but we made it.

    Once again, we were with Allan. We felt safe in his care. He made sure we understood this would be a bumpy ride and that there was a good chance of spray as we got underway. He also warned us that we could well be recalled to the ship early if conditions continued to worsen.

    First up, we came across a couple of fur seals … one sleeping peacefully; the other one not so pleased with the presence of zodiacs nearby. We didn’t stay long as we did not want to further stress out the animal. Ice sculptures were all around us … remnants of icebergs that had been unable to withstand the changes wrought by Mother Nature.

    Allan took refuge from the winds by getting us into the lee of some of the larger pieces of ice, but photography was challenging.

    At one point, we were heartened by short-lived patches of blue in the sky. The sun wasn’t able to break through the clouds … except briefly. Nonetheless, those few minutes brightened the ice, adding to our pleasure in the icescape.

    As we were being entertained by the birds using the winds to stay aloft, we spotted a lone black-browed albatross … which prompted Allan to add to the ambiance of the moment by reciting a couple of lines from Coleridge’s “Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner.”

    With the wind increasing to 45 knots, the zodiacs were recalled to the ship. Delivered safely to the expedition staff on the vessel, we were greeted with hot chocolate, topped with mounds of whipped cream … spiking with rum optional. A welcome back that was greatly appreciated by one and all.

    This was our shortest zodiac outing of the expedition … just about an hour long. But there was plenty to keep us entertained from the ship’s decks while we waited for the zodiacs to be brought aboard — ice sculptures floating by; pintado petrels, fulmars, and other birds on the wing or resting on the surface of the Weddell Sea; seals rafting by on ice floes; huge splashes from waves crashing onto icebergs … one on which two penguins were seeking relief from the rough elements.

    As Ortelius started weaving its way through the ice, we went inside to warm up … and see what was on the agenda for on-ship activities for the rest of the day.    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    One of the complimentary postcards we picked up in the lobby of Ortelius.
    Images of Endurance in its watery grave in the Weddell Sea.

    RWSE Day 23: Endurance Found

    March 5, 2025, Southern Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 30 °F

    Actually, the ship was found three years ago today … on 5 March 2022 … where it lies in the icy waters of the Weddell Sea … at a depth of nearly 9,900 feet (3,000m) … over a century after it was crushed in the ice pack … and 100 years and two months after Shackleton died on SGI on 5 January 1922.

    That being the case, tonight was the perfect time for an after-dinner screening of a documentary movie about the Endurance … with an introduction and afterword by Tennessee … and popcorn to boot.

    A joint production by National Geographic and Disney, the documentary is simply entitled “Endurance.” It opens with a 1910 quote by Theodore Roosevelt: “The credit belongs to the man who is actually in the arena … if he fails, at least he fails while daring greatly.” A description apropos to what Shackleton attempted with the Endurance Expedition.

    The documentary tells the story of the finding of the wreck by the Endurance22 Expedition, which was organized and funded by the Falklands Maritime Heritage Trust. Footage from the expedition is combined with historic photos and Frank Hurley’s original 35mm footage from the 1914 expedition … color-treated for the first time in this documentary; explanations by the Endurance22 Expedition members; and Shackleton’s and his crew’s words … taken from their writings and recordings, and in their own voices, using AI technology.

    The images of the wreck show it to be in an amazing condition — the icy waters having preserved much of the ship … it’s name as clearly visible as it must have been when the ship was crushed in the ice.

    Finding the vessel was an incredible feat … considering that overcast conditions at the time Endurance sank made it impossible to mark its position. Endurance22 had to rely on coordinates Frank Worsley, the captain, wrote in the ship’s log … an assumed position based on sextant readings taken the day after the sinking and his estimates of the direction and speed of the ice drift.

    Found though the ship is, as stated at the end of the documentary, “The Endurance remains undisturbed. It is protected by international treaties ensuring its conservation.”    Read more

  • Remote Weddell Sea Explorer
    Screenshot of the title slide for tonight's recap — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.
    The "Purple Monster" ... wreaking havoc in the north of the Peninsula — Antarctica.We have 150 NM to go to reach Elephant Island ... weather permitting — Antarctica.Frostbite is an injury caused by freezing of the skin and underlying tissues ... Dr Amar's lecture.Screenshot of slides from Dr Amar's presentation on frostbite.The bridge is quiet at this hour with the passengers at dinner — Aboard Ortelius.There's a lot of ice out there — Weddell Sea, Antarctica.

    RWSE Day 23: Recap … Storm Ahead

    March 5, 2025, Southern Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 30 °F

    Back on the ship after our zodiac cruise, we had just enough time for hot showers before heading up to the lounge for the daily recap to find out what tomorrow had in store for us.

    The news wasn’t good.

    The Windy slides EL Sara shared showed a huge area of purple — which Allan later named the “Purple Monster.” A storm was brewing in the Peninsula region … including our target area for activities in the Bransfield Strait, South Shetlands, and Elephant Island. It would be impossible to do any kind of off-ship activities there for the next 24-36 hours.

    The solution was to spend another day in the vicinity of where we had explored today before cruising the 150 NM to Elephant Island. Frankly, we didn’t mind as we’d spent time in the target area in 2007. Where we would be whiling away our time would be all new to us.

    Rupert, one of the passengers, followed EL Sara. Looks like some of the passengers are devising a quiz two days hence to test how well the expedition team has come to know the passengers. Questions and photos to be contributed by everyone. Turnabout is fair game, I suppose. After all, the team quizzed the passengers about the polar knowledge imparted to them over the previous weeks.

    Dr Amar wrapped up the recap with a briefing about frostbite … how it happens, how to prevent it, how to recognize and treat it. Interestingly, the most important take away for me was to re-warm the affected appendage only if there is no chance of re-freezing.

    A special documentary screening is scheduled for later in the evening. But first … dinner.    Read more

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