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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

📍 Turquie En savoir plus
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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Haifa & the Baha'i Gardens from the ship ... we're going to the very top today — Haifa, Israel.
    The Carmelit is a six-stop underground funicular — Haifa, Israel.Can you see Insignia — joined by Viking Star today — way down in the port — Haifa, Israel.Along the quiet promenade atop Mount Carmel — Haifa, Israel.A "we visited the Baha'i Gardens from a distance" selfie — Haifa, Israel.Glimpses of the Baha'i Gardens — Haifa, Israel.Wood block painting of Geishas @ the Tikotin Japanese Art Museum — Haifa, Israel.Example of art in miniature @ the Tikotin Japanese Art Museum — Haifa, Israel.3-D representation & photos of the Sapporo Sculpture Garden ... Tikotin Japanese Art Museum — Haifa.Cockatiels @ the Haifa Zoo — Haifa, Israel.Cattle Egret & Black-Crowned Night Herons in the free-flight aviary @ Haifa Zoo — Haifa, Israel.Stork in the free-flight aviary @ the Haifa Zoo — Haifa, Israel.Portrait of a Mura @ the Haifa Zoo — Haifa, Israel.Red Kangaroo with a joey in the pouch @ the Haifa Zoo — Haifa, Israel.Beautiful flowers add color to our day — Haifa, Israel.Falafel sandwich for lunch ... and a gelato treat for dessert — Haifa, Israel."Allenby Garden Viewpoint" ... mural along the Gdera Stairs — Haifa, Israel.Mural by Anna Lukashevsky ... along the Gdera Stairs — Haifa, Israel."Downside Up" ... mural by Boaz Noy along the Gdera Stairs — Haifa, Israel.

    Haifa On Foot

    12 avril 2022, Israël ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    And when I say on foot, I mean this was a 17,787-step day of meandering around Haifa … from the waterfront … to the crest of Mount Carmel … back down to the waterfront … and all the way in between.

    The Carmelit is Haifa’s funicular/underground metro. With only six stops, the system runs between the city’s most important centers. We walked out of the port and headed to the station at Paris Square, in the city’s downtown center … a 15-minute walk in all. After purchasing single-ride tickets from the vending machine, we were on our way up to the last stop … the Gan-Ha’em Station.

    First, a walk along the Louis Promenade, which took us to the top of the Baha’i Gardens, which are sculpted into the mountainside. Along with the Shrine of the Báb (aka the Golden Dome), they are a symbol of the city. I had looked into booking the guided tour that allows visitors access to the entirety of the grounds and the shrine, but the gardens are closed today. So, we had to be satisfied with a glimpse from the promenade that overlooks the property.

    We had no specific plans on where to go or what to do today, so we just wandered and ended up wherever our feet took us … the Tikotin Museum of Japanese Art … the Haifa Zoo (it was obvious that the animals were well taken care of from the way the caretakers talked about them, but the facility itself is in need of a facelift).

    More meandering eventually brought us to a small, hole-in-the-wall kind of place — Falafel President — that was doing brisk business. We joined the locals and ordered two falafel sandwiches, which we ate at one of the tables on the sidewalk. Excellent. Then, onto Golda, the gelateria we had spotted earlier for a delicious, creamy Belgian chocolate treat. Excellent.

    Thus fortified, we began the 45-minute trek down to the port.

    Haifa is situated on hilly terrain. The roads, instead of going straight down, follow a zigzag pattern along the mountainside. Pedestrians in the know take the “step routes” which make for short cuts that go through quiet neighborhoods and narrow alleys. Luckily, Google Maps routed us down via these steps because I had not been able to get my hands on a map of the color-coded routes. Along the way, we enjoyed murals and other bits of art.

    Thus, we wrapped up our visit to Israel. Tomorrow we have a sea day before our first port of call in Turkey on the 14th. I know our feet are going to appreciate the chance to rest up.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Happy Birthday to me ... Aboard Insignia — Haifa, Israel.
    Happy Birthday to me ... Aboard Insignia — Haifa, Israel.Happy Birthday to me ... Aboard Insignia — Haifa, Israel.

    Haifa: Celebrating My Birthday

    11 avril 2022, Israël ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    For years now, as our travels have picked up, I’ve had the pleasure of celebrating my birthday in different countries. This year I’m in Israel on this special day.

    I won’t tell you how “young” I am, but there is a 6 and a 4 involved … you can put the numbers in whatever order you deem appropriate 😄

    I love the Italian specialty restaurant on the ship — Toscana. So that’s where we went tonight. A cake and serenade by the staff were part of the occasion. Thank you all for making my day one to remember.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    A selfie with the abundant yellow flowers — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.
    Snails found a home amongst the petals — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Looking out towards the waterfront from the visitor center — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Scene from the presentation at the Visitor Center — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Bronze pieces from a Roman merchant vessel that sank in the harbor — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.The Governor's Palace Baths — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Two of the palace vaults — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Looking down the length of the hippodrome — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.The public latrines — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Roman mosaic floor — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.A "we're at the public bathhouse" selfie — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Roman mosaic floor — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel."Overlooking the harbor" selfie — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.The lower palace swimming pool — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.The "disappointing" Roman amphitheater — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Panorama of the site from near the south entrance — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Sculpture by Michael Shacham — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Colorful flowers add pleasure to our day — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel."Family" ... by Yael Shalev — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.Fortifications surrounding the site on the land side — Caesarea Natl Park, Israel.

    Haifa: Caesarea National Park

    11 avril 2022, Israël ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    From our previous visit to Haifa, I knew the train station was walking distance to where Insignia would be docked today. Not that we were taking a train. Rather, I knew the path to get us out of the port on foot was in that direction. Instructions from port security — and an escort by Javier, Insignia’s Chief Purser, when we ran into him along the way — made getting to the port entrance easy peasy.

    Short of taking a tour, renting a car was the easiest way to get ourselves to Caesarea National Park, about 40 km from the port. Luckily, Suncar (on Jaffa Street) was just a 15-minute walk from the port. Soon, we were breezing down Hwy 4 to Hwy 2 to Rte 6511.

    The park has a beautiful setting on the Mediterranean coast, between the Crocodile and Hadera rivers. I’m not going to go through the entire history of the area … anyone interested can look that up. Suffice to say that Phoenicians were living here as far back as 586-332 BCE. Other empires and kingdoms took over in the years that followed … and then the Romans came in 30 BCE. They awarded the land to King Herod, who built a large port city and named it Caesarea in honor of Octavian Augustus Caesar … Herod’s way of saving his neck from the chopping block.

    We entered the ruins of Caesarea through the perimeter fortifications and slowly made our way to the harbor area and the Visitor Center, which was open today. The museum inside is small, but the short film gave us a brief glimpse of how Herod built the city. Then, we wandered out towards the harbor, following a meandering course that took us through the ruins of the palace, vaults, public latrines and baths; along the length of the hippodrome where chariot races were held; and on to the Herodian Amphitheater.

    We enjoyed our visit to Caesarea National Park … except for being disappointed in the amphitheater, which has been restored with modern materials and now sports a performance stage that doesn’t fit the ambiance one bit. The Mediterranean served as a beautiful background for the ruins, the brilliant sun and blue sky adding to our pleasure in the day.

    All in all, an enjoyable day that more than made up for yesterday’s frustrations in Ashdod.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    A "we are in Haifa" selfie — Israel.

    Welcome to Haifa, Israel

    11 avril 2022, Israël ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    What a nice change from yesterday in Ashdod!

    Though Insignia missed her 6:00a arrival at the Port of Haifa, we were maneuvering into our berth behind NCL Jade by 7:00a. Within the next ½-hour, We were cleared to go ashore. No waiting around today … even if we did have to show our passports at three different checkpoints as we made our way out of the port area on foot.

    On our previous overnight visit to Haifa, we explored farther afield … Jerusalem & Bethlehem one day … and Acre (Akko) another day. This time, we are staying close.

    Today’s story will be coming up in the next footprint as we have to pick up our rental car to get to our destination.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Reading on the veranda as we wait for the ship to be cleared — Ashdod Port, Israel.
    Afternoon tea with Cella in Horizons — Ashdod Port, Israel.Thank you for listening Oceania! Here's our full length mirror! — Aboard Insignia.

    Ashdod: We Waited and We Waited

    10 avril 2022, Israël ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    Do I even want to write about what turned out to be a “bust” for us? Not really, but I will. So here goes the “short” story of today.

    We knew the COVID-19 formalities were going to delay us. We were prepared for that. After all, we’d been told that the process could take up to six hours. The first part — the PCR testing — went smoothly and the testing was completed ahead of schedule. Then, we waited … and we waited … and we waited … and we waited. No announcement for us to proceed to immigration. That answered the question from this morning. Since we were not berthed at the terminal, we’d be going through the formalities on our way to the Sea Mall.

    At 11:30a, we went up to the Waves Grill for lunch. Then, we waited … and we waited. CD Leslie came on the P/A to say we were still waiting for the test results and immigration … and promised to be back in an hour with an update. So, we waited … and we waited. Leslie made another announcement. The same news … waiting on test results and immigration. One cabin number was then called with the request to contact the front desk. Later, I heard that there was one inconclusive test. Was that someone in the cabin that was called? Probably.

    Anyway, it was just about 3:00p when Leslie finally came on the P/A system to say Insignia was cleared. He proceeded to call the tours to the gangway. No calls for us independents until 3:30p.

    By that time, Mui and I had decided to throw in the towel. You see, immigration was still ahead of us. We’d have to take the shuttle to the terminal, go through the formalities, then get back on a bus to go to the Sea Mall. The museum we were planning to visit would be closed by the time we got there. We didn’t feel like it was worth the hassle to go through all that just to walk around the marina area. Instead, we figured we’d have afternoon tea on a quiet ship. Yeah, right!

    Apparently, the “clearance” given earlier was just for PCR testing. We were just sitting down to tea when the announcement came that “everyone” had to go through immigration, whether they planned to leave the port or not.

    So, we trudged down the gangway only to see the bus we’re required to ride through the port pulling away as it was at capacity. It was another 20 minutes before another bus pulled up to collect us and a few others. Five minutes after that we were pulling up by the terminal. The only good news in all this? Those on the buses ahead of us were already finished so we just walked up, showed our passports, went through the security checkpoint, walked back out, and got back on the bus back to the ship.

    By this time, it was 4:30p. The Panache Quartet was still playing in Horizons, but afternoon tea was already being dismantled. The wait staff were kind enough to accommodate us … and we were joined by Cella, who was also late to the “tea game.”

    Now, at 6:00p we are not only back in our cabin, but I am ready to put this whole debacle behind me. It takes a lot to frustrate us. But the Israelis managed to do so in a big way today. I sure hope our next couple of days in Haifa will make up for today.

    On the bright side … I had mentioned in my cruise satisfaction survey that I wished there was a full length mirror in the cabin. What seemed like minutes after we dropped off the survey at the front desk this morning, there was a knock on the door. Yup … a new door for the double closet … with a full-length mirror on the inside panel. Now that’s what I call service!    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    We're sharing Ashdod port with NCL Jade — Israel.

    Welcome to Ashdod Port

    10 avril 2022, Israël ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    I say port, because that’s where we are … and where we will remain until the results for the Israeli-administered PCR tests come back. Last announcement I heard, there were 9 or so passengers who had not yet been to the Insignia Lounge PCR Clinic. Hopefully, they have since made their way to complete the testing requirement.

    The process went very smoothly this morning. Our side of the deck 7 cabins were slated for 8:50a. But at 8:30a, an announcement was made for anyone who had not been tested to make their way down to the lounge. By 8:45a, Mui and I had taken our turn and were back in the cabin to finish preparing for our day in Ashdod.

    Next, we await the announcement to complete immigration formalities in the terminal. We’ve got a little twist in the process, however. Apparently there is a crane near the terminal so we were not allowed to dock there as scheduled. Instead, we will have to be shuttled to the terminal.

    Will that mean that we’ll get shuttled, go through the formalities, and then return to the ship to await PCR results before being shuttled to the Sea Mall when said results are ready?

    Or will that mean that they will wait for the test results to come back first so that we can then proceed to the Sea Mall once the immigration formalities in the terminal are completed?

    That question has not been answered by the authorities as yet.

    In the meantime, we did get some good news on the shuttle front. The last shuttle back from the Sea Mall to the port is now at 8:00p. That’s more like it since Insignia is in port until 10:00p. We won’t need to seek alternative means to get back to the ship and can enjoy our time in the city.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022

    We Have Our Ashdod Entry Instructions

    9 avril 2022, Eastern Mediterranean ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Another quiet day at sea … lunch with friends Pam & Ray in the Grand Dining Room was the only interesting portion of the day. Oh, and we also broke with our Terrace Café breakfast routine to eat our morning meal in the Grand Dining Room today.

    Since there is nothing noteworthy about our day, I’ll just write a bit about the instructions delivered to the cabin last night for tomorrow’s entry process into Israel.

    The plan is for testing to commence at 6:30a ... ½-hour after we're scheduled to arrive. There will be no announcements into the cabin so as not to bother those who want to sleep in because they are further down the testing list … as we are ... at 8:50a.

    Once the testing is completed, it is expected that immigration procedures will begin around 10:00a. That time, however, might change, so we are to wait for the announcement and then proceed into the terminal building with our passports … which will be returned to us at the time we go to the Insignia Lounge for our PCR test. Then, back to the ship to await clearance of Insignia by the Israeli Authorities.

    On another topic with regards to our arrival. Apparently, we are not allowed to walk through the port tomorrow. So, O will be operating a shuttle to the Sea Mall in the city center. I looked it up and it’s not far from the Marina. That’s the good news.

    The bad news is that although we are in port until 10:00p, the last shuttle is @ 5:30p. Assuming we can get on the first shuttle @ 1:00p, that will give us just about 4.5 hours in the city. Is it even worth going? We’ll try to figure out tomorrow if we can make our way back to the port on our own at a later hour. Private vehicles are prohibited from entering the port and only a few taxi companies are allowed to enter the port … or so I read. Thus transportation is the hurdle that we need to figure out. Research is pending.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022

    Quiet Day @ Sea

    8 avril 2022, Eastern Mediterranean ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    (This post is really just so I can get a footprint into our route … nothing exciting to report.)

    The only ding-dong that was broadcast into the cabin today was the bi-weekly safety briefing … in lieu of the in-person muster drill. All good then.

    Tonight we attended the Oceania Club Party that was held in the Insignia Lounge for past passengers. The event was hosted by GM Claudio and Oceania Club Ambassador, Cella. We didn’t stay through to the end as we had dinner reservations at the Polo Grill. But we were there long enough to learn that the official passenger count for this segment is 286. That is 20 less than I had originally heard.

    Off to wrap up our quiet day at sea with a show in the Insignia Lounge.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022

    Our At-Sea PCR Testing Clinic

    7 avril 2022, Eastern Mediterranean ⋅ 🌙 59 °F

    With some 814 NM to go before we reach Ashdod, Israel, we’ve completed the pre-arrival PCR testing hurdle that was announced this afternoon. It was painless … the Insignia crew have the process down to a science.

    The Insignia Lounge — our primary entertainment venue — took on the cloak of an at-sea-PCR-testing clinic and passengers were called down by deck number … deck 8 even numbered cabins … then odd numbered cabins … followed by deck 7 even numbered cabins … and so on. Each call was preceded by the now infamous ding-dong!

    When we went down to take our turn, the line was short … with social-distancing markers placed on the floor along the hallway. First, our Israel Green Pass QR code was scanned. Then a lab tube with a barcode was scanned into each of our records. Sealed in a little baggie, the tube was then handed to us and we were directed down to the dance floor where three “kiosks” were set up with privacy panels. Medical personnel then swabbed us, disinfecting hands and putting on fresh gloves before repeating the process for the next passenger.

    All in all, it took us maybe five minutes to get through the entire process … with the majority of time taken up by the administrative minutia that preceded the swabbing.

    Since the ding-dongs were going to continue regardless of whether we abstained from food or not (see previous footprint for how every meal today seemed to be interrupted by a ding-dong), we rewarded ourselves with dinner and a show tonight … the latter headlining Stephanie Webber, a Welsh vocalist who has a lovely voice … but needs to work on her stage presence.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Have Green Pass ... will travel to Israel 🤞🏻

    A Ding-Dong Kind of Day!

    7 avril 2022, Eastern Mediterranean ⋅ 🌬 59 °F

    Turning her bow away from Valetta, Insignia set a course for Ashdod, Israel.

    We were already dressed for the day, so we went up to the jogging track on deck 10 to put in a couple of miles worth of steps as the ship danced on the 10-12 foot waves. The wind was strong … and would be getting stronger. In his noon announcement, in fact, Captain B reported gusts up to 40 knots.

    A couple of quiet hours of reading and it was time for lunch in the dining room. It was then that the P/A system went ding-dong … again. What now?

    Turns out that it was Leslie, our Cruise Director … with more news of entry requirements for Israel. Actually, I already knew about the online entry statement required to be completed within 48 hours of arrival … the information was in the first pre-embarkation letter sent out by Oceania HQ. I had heard through the rumor mill, however, that O might be trying to negotiate an exemption to the requirement. The Israelis obviously weren’t playing ball.

    Anyway, step-by-step instructions for completing the form were awaiting us when we returned to the cabin. I have since completed the form, adding Mui as my companion. The internet signal was good … no glitches along the way.

    The proud bearers of the Green Pass that says we can enter Israel from Ashdod on the 10th — pending the PCR testing that the authorities will conduct that morning — off we went to Horizons on deck 10 forward for afternoon tea.

    We were sipping our tea when ding-dong went the P/A system. Not again, we both thought. It was CD Leslie with a teaser announcement advising that trivia was canceled due to “a situation” and promising to return in 15 minutes with more information.

    True to his promise, the P/A system went ding-dong again. We’d been discussing what the news could be. Israel canceled and replaced with other ports? That was at the forefront of our minds. After all, it didn’t feel like they really wanted us visiting.

    Turns out that we are still going, but are having to jump through another hoop … a PCR test at sea, in advance of the one the Israeli Authorities will be giving us when we arrive in Ashdod.

    Mui and I will go with the flow, as we usually do. After all, these are the tribulations of travel during COVID-19 times. But I will say that the Israeli requirements are really above and beyond the pale!

    I think we might skip dinner tonight! Don’t need any more ding-dongs today 😉😀    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Bye, Bye Valletta, Malta — Aboard Insignia ... in the Med!

    Lost Valletta!

    7 avril 2022, Strait of Sicily ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    A 2-hour delay departing Trapani last night due to slow bunkering + fairly heavy rockin’ and rollin’ overnight which slowed down Insignia en route to Malta. But that wasn't the reason why we lost Valletta today.

    When a rare ding-dong of the P/A system broadcast into the cabin at 8:30a was followed by the voice of Captain Brajcic, I was thinking he might be announcing a delay in our arrival into Valletta. After all, at the time, we were off-shore from another Maltese island, Gozo, with a bit more to go to reach the Island of Malta.

    But no, it wasn’t a delay he was announcing. Rather, it was the cancelation of our port of call.

    To get into Valletta, the ship needs to go through a narrow channel between two fortifications. Strong crosswinds are a problem, therefore. And that’s exactly what the conditions were like in Valletta this morning. So, the Maltese Port Authority deemed it too dangerous for us to dock. Thus, in the blink of an eye, Valletta went bye-bye.

    So, now we have three days at sea en route to Ashdod, Israel instead of two.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Hello Trapani, Sicily.
    As our pilot boat leaves, a tugboat approaches to assist Insignia into her berth in Trapani, Sicily.Must be laundry day — Trapani, Sicily.Time for a cannolo break in the home of cannoli — Trapani, Sicily.Something we all wish for Ukraine ... peace — Trapani, Sicily.Fontana del Tritone — Trapani, Sicily.A "we are heading to Bastion Conca" selfie — Trapani, Sicily.The beach near Bastion Conca is covered with dried seaweed — Trapani, Sicily.To the Men of the Sea ... by the Trapaneze sculptor, P. Majorca — Trapani, Sicily.An "on the waterfront" selfie — Trapani, Sicily.Colorful flowers and Torre di Ligny — Trapani, Sicily.A "we are on the way to the Torre di Ligny" selfie — Trapani, Sicily.Rocks behind Torre di Ligny — Trapani, Sicily.Panels decorating the gate of Cattedrale San Lorenzo — Trapani, Sicily.Panel decorating the gate of Cattedrale San Lorenzo — Trapani, Sicily.

    Trapani: On Foot

    6 avril 2022, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Just as today was a “one cannolo” day on shore in Trapani, it will also be a one footprint day.

    Trapani, a city on the west coast of Sicily, is still an important fishing port … as it was when it was founded by the Elymians. It’s name is derived from Drépanon, a Greek word that means “sickle” … in reference to the city’s curving harbor.

    When our ship called on Trapani in 2015, we explored the city on foot and saw all that was of interest to us. Another time, we visited the hilltop village of Erice.

    So, this time I arranged for a taxi to take us to the ferry pier outside the city … from where small boats take people to Mothia to visit the ruins of an ancient and powerful city on San Pantaleo Island. With the forecast for high winds and rain, however, a few days ago I decided to cancel those plans. A little early, yes, but I wanted to give the driver the courtesy of being able to book another customer.

    So, we ended up spending the day in Trapani again, walking off the ship where Insignia was berthed. Wouldn’t you know it? No rain. But the wind was sure a-blowin’. Nonetheless, we managed to put nearly 15,000 steps on our feet once more.

    We wandered all over town, getting lost on side streets before eventually finding ourselves on Corso Vittorio Emmanuelle. The last time we stayed in town, this street was a lively place with lots of cafés, restaurants, and shops. Not so today. Methinks COVID-19 has taken a real toll on businesses here and they are still trying to get back on their feet. Or, we were out too early!

    No matter, we found the same pastry shop across the street from the cathedral open today. Here, Mui satisfied his craving for that special Sicialian treat … cannoli. Cannolo, actually, since he had only one this time. I find this pastry too sweet, so I opted for a cup of fondante (dark chocolate) gelato. He was happy with his treat … I was happy with mine.

    Thus energized, we strolled over to the waterfront on the far side from the port and made our way first to Bastion Conca … and then to Torre di Ligny. The latter was built in 1671 as an addition to the coastal defenses. From this tower, it was possible to control both the Mediterranean and Tyrrhenian seas. The Museum of Prehistory is housed in the tower. Alas, as many of the other places were, the museum was also closed today.

    We looked for a place to eat while we wandered. The few places we found didn’t appeal to us. In the end, we decided to just return to the ship for a late lunch at the Waves Grill. Not a bad decision as the wind has picked up considerably from earlier in the day. Besides, it’s nice to have time with a good wi-if signal so I can post this footprint now instead of waiting until everyone is at dinner 😉    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Crepuscular rays add to our enjoyment at dinner — Aboard Insignia.
    New definition of "fully vaccinated" ... per the EU.

    New Definition of “Fully Vaccinated”

    5 avril 2022, Tyrrhenian Sea ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    It’s not unknown for us to bypass the dining room and dine at the Terrace Café when we have a series of ports of call ahead of us. So, that is what we did tonight. The bonus? The tables on the aft deck were set for those who preferred to dine al fresco. Though bundling up was required, this was definitely a better choice while the EU’s indoor masking rules remain in play.

    There’s another EU COVID-19 policy that has apparently been announced. We received notice of this when we returned to our cabin after dinner.

    I’ve attached a copy of the letter … but here’s the gist of the new definition of what fully vaccinated means: “… no more than 270 days have passed since the last dose of the primary vaccination series or if the person has received a third dose.” The letter goes on to say that the booster must have been received at least 14 days prior to embarkation.

    Mui and are good. We received our boosters in November … that fits within the “at least 14 days prior to embarkation” clause.    En savoir plus

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  • RTW Redux ... 2023

    Airfare to MIA Booked

    5 avril 2022, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Welcome to Cagliari, Sardinia.

    But no ... I am not going to write about our day here since the story belongs to the European Crossing and Türkiye trip.

    What I am going to write about, however, is yesterday's airfare purchase for our RTW2023 precursor cruise in December. I didn't write about this yesterday because we were still at sea and the internet on Insignia was acting up (to put it politely).

    Anyway ...

    I wasn’t looking to book airfare to get us from Colorado Springs to Miami just yet, but non-stop award tickets on United Airlines for 12,500 miles per person were just too good to pass up. We have since upgraded those economy cabin tickets to Economy+ … poor man’s business class, if you will.

    25,000 miles to fly in economy might not seem like such a deal. But ever since the airlines moved to dynamic pricing of award tickets, the required miles have gone sky-high. In fact, earlier this year, these same tickets were twice as expensive. I'll keep monitoring flights, of course, and should the fare go down, I will cancel and rebook.

    Our United Airlines branded credit card gives us two checked bags each ... free. I’m actually hoping we won’t need to use our full allotment, but it’s good to know we won’t have to pay extra if we do.

    The flight from DEN to MIA will be a duplicate of the one we did in March this year to get ourselves to Miami for the European Crossing. Same time … same place. Different seats, however.

    Airfare to return us home from San Francisco at the end of RTW2023 is pending. Those flights won't be available for booking until August.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Cathedral of Santa Maria currently has a Neo-Romanesque style — Cagliari, Sardinia.
    Ceiling detail in the nave ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Detail from the stairs up to the altar ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Detail from the stairs up to the altar ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Marble balusters of the stairs up to the altar ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Detail from the ceiling above the altar ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.The pulpit was originally sculpted for the Pisa Cathedral ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari.Marble work under the pulpit ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Glimpse into the crypt below the altar ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.The Crypt ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Marble work decorating the Crypt ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Marble staircase in the Crypt ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Marble staircase detail in the Crypt ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Side chapel in the Crypt ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.Marble altar piece in the Crypt ... Cathedral of Santa Maria — Cagliari, Sardinia.

    Cagliari: Cathedral of Santa Maria

    5 avril 2022, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    (Third and final footprint for our port of call in Sardinia …)

    The Cagliari Cathedral has the grand name of “Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Castello.” That last bit of the name is in reference to its location in the Quartiere Storico do Castello.

    The church was constructed during the 13th century in the Pisan-Romanesque style. Later, when it was restored in the 17th century, it took on a Baroque style. A subsequent restoration in the 1930s, gave it a Neo-Romanesque appearance … more in keeping with its original look.

    We went in for a quick look-see, but I was so intrigued by all the marble-work that we ended up staying a bit longer … which actually worked out nicely as by the time I came back up from the crypt, the ship’s tour was long gone and I was able to study the marble details to my heart’s content.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    A "we visited the Orto Botanico" selfie — Cagliari, Sardinia.
    Borago officinalis @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.The succulent garden @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.Within the frame of an Agave attenuata @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.One of several fountains @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.Selfie @ the Pozzo Romano (Roman well) @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.Find Mui ... he provides perspective for the Euphorbia canariensis @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari.Pinetta (aka Stone Pine) @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.Lavatera maritima @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.Adhatoda vasica @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.An "Alien Species" @ the Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.Oxalis pes-caprae @ Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.The Roman amphitheater from Orto Botanico — Cagliari, Sardinia.

    Cagliari: Orto Botanico

    5 avril 2022, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    (This is footprint #2 … fewer words since I’ve already told the story of our call on Cagliari in the previous post.)

    Orto Botánico di Cagliari is billed as one of Italy’s most famous botanical gardens. It was founded in 1865 and, at present, is operated under the auspices of the University of Cagliari. The 2,000 species it boasts are mostly from the Mediterranean Region.

    We enjoyed a nice wander along the paths of the garden, but were disappointed that the greenhouses were closed … COVID-19 precaution, I am guessing. Nor did we see any aviaries.

    But there was a surprise photo op that we were delighted to come across … the ruins of the ancient Roman Amphitheater. The site was hidden behind the wall that runs around the gardens. We would not have known to walk in that direction if not for a distant glimpse of the ruins as we were climbing up some steps. Mui had no problem viewing the ruins over the top of the wall. I, on the other hand, being slightly height-challenged, had to find a foothold and hoist myself up a bit 🤪    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Welcome to Cagliari, Sardinia — Italy.
    Heading to the Orto Botanico via deserted streets — Cagliari, Sardinia.Ruins of Villa di Tigellio — Cagliari, Sardinia.Santuario Sant'Ignazio da Laconi — Cagliari, Sardinia.The ruins of the 2nd Century AD Roman Amphitheater — Cagliari, Sardinia.Giardini Pubblici Galleria Communale d'Arte — Cagliari, Sardinia.Like the locals, Mui enjoys his espresso at the counter — Cagliari, Sardinia.A "we are in Cagliari" selfie — Sardinia, Italy.Colorful buildings at a piazzale near the cathedral — Cagliari, Sardinia.A lovely view — Cagliari, Sardinia.Bastione di Saint Remy — Cagliari, Sardinia.The terrace at Bastione di Saint Remy — Cagliari, Sardinia.One of many interesting gates where the traffic has to take turns going through — Cagliari, Sardinia

    Cagliari: On Foot

    5 avril 2022, Italie ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    Cagliari — aka Casteddu in Sardinian … meaning castle — is the capital of the island of Sardinia, which is an autonomous region of Italy.

    (I’ll follow this footprint of the general story of our day, with a couple of specific ones.)

    Our first visit to Cagliari was in 2015 … on Nautica … another Oceania ship. On that occasion, we climbed up to the castle for beautiful views of the city laid out before us. Then, we got lost — on purpose — in the back streets of the city.

    This time, we started out in the Quartiere Storico di Stampace … uphill from the waterfront. Our destination was the Orto Botánico. We were hoping to bookend the botanical garden with the ancient ruins of Villa di Tigellio (an aristocratic Roman villa from the Imperial Era, which tradition says belonged to Tigellius, a Latin poet) and the Roman Amphitheater (dating back to the 2nd century AD … half of it carved into the rock; half if it built using the local white limestone). Alas, both were “temporarily closed”, but we managed to get a good view of them anyway.

    Our meandering walk then led us to a public garden, and from there to neighborhoods where we saw barely anyone until we arrived at the Cathedral. More narrow roads, with cobblestone “water channels” running down the middle, led us to the Bastione di Saint Remy, one of Sardinia’s majestic monumental complexes, which was built in a Classic style between 1896 and 1902 on the old city’s medieval bastions.

    Making our way down from the bastion, we went to a “locanda” for a late lunch. It proved to be a partial disaster unfortunately. For one thing, though the tables were in front of the restaurant we thought we had selected, the one we were seated at actually belonged to a restaurant that was on a side street. That in itself wasn’t the issue. It was the inconsistent quality of the food that was the problem. My spaghetti alla carbonara was quite tasty and perfectly al dente. Mui’s pearl pasta with shrimp, on the other hand … well, the shrimp was cooked well, but the pearl pasta was practically raw. We sent it back and shared my pasta instead. Later, we made up for our disappointing meal by getting some delicious gelato from the incongruously named Peter Pan Gelateria.

    All in all, we had a very nice day in Cagliari … the sun was out for most of the time. Comfy temps … except when the breeze picked up. And then it was quite chilly. Typical spring weather.

    More to come on this day before we set sail …    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Masks are back! — Aboard Insignia ... in the Med.

    Masks Are Back …

    4 avril 2022, Western Mediterranean ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Leslie, our Cruise Director, gave us all fair warning this afternoon. The details, along with two KN95 masks, were in the cabin when we returned from dinner.

    This is an EU requirement. Essentially, we are to mask up anytime we are indoors once we leave the cabin … unless we are actively eating or drinking.

    Masks must be of a kind designated as FFP2. FFP stands for “filtering face piece.” Such masks have an efficiency designation ranging from 1 to 3, with 1 being the lowest. That explains what the number 2 specifies. The KN95 masks fulfill the FFP2 requirement.

    Physical/social distancing is to be adhered to as well.

    The info letter went on to describe what “actively eating or drinking” means. And no, having a drink or a plate of treats on the table or in your hand does not qualify. Rather, until we leave the EU, or we’re told otherwise, it will be eat/sip and mask up.

    We don’t consider this to be a problem as we’ve been masking up in enclosed public places when in proximity to larger numbers of people anyway. Safety first where COVID-19 is concerned!    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Rough day @ Sea — Aboard Insignia ... in the Med.
    The Beaufort Scale is important to mariners.

    Stormier Med … Day 2

    4 avril 2022, Western Mediterranean ⋅ 🌬 54 °F

    We woke up this morning to much more noticeable dancing of Insignia on the Med.

    The “Report from the Bridge” on the NavChannel showed the waves were still at about 12 feet … they sure looked bigger than that from the veranda.

    The wind, however, had definitely increased in strength, going from about 28 knots last night around 10:30p to 47 knots at 7:30a this morning. To put that in perspective … from 32 mph to 54 mph. Describing those numbers in words, the winds went from a near gale on the Beaufort Scale to a strong gale … a gale that was sending a filmy spray from the waves crashing into the hull up to deck 7 at times.

    Needless to say, going up to deck 10 forward and lying face down on a massage table in a dark, warm room did not seem like a good idea. So, we canceled our massage appointments … actually rescheduled them to another day.

    We’re handling the motion of the ocean well enough. No problem having breakfast at the Terrace Café on deck 10 — inside of course. We opted, however, to “stay low” and had lunch and dinner in the Grand Dining Room on deck 5.

    If I heard him correctly, Captain Brajcic, reported at noon that conditions will begin easing. We shall see.

    He also reported that we have 280 NM to go to our next stop … Cagliari, Sardinia. I was especially happy to hear this because the “Report from the Bridge” has been messed up since our departure from Funchal. Instead of the distance to Cagliari decreasing, it’s been steadily increasing. At least we now have confirmation that we are indeed headed in the right direction!

    [P.S. Wikipedia describes the Beaufort Scale I mentioned above as “… an empirical measure that relates wind speed to observed conditions at sea or on land. Its full name is the Beaufort wind force scale.”]    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Collage of Memories — Gibraltar, UK (2003).
    Collage of Memories — Gibraltar, UK (2017).View this morning from the bridge camera — Aboard Insignia ... the Mediterranean Sea.Snow capped mountains of Spain's Sierra Madre National Park — from Aboard Insignia ... the Med.Conditions in the Med ... from our veranda on deck 7 ... Aboard Insignia.Conditions on the Med ... looking forward from our veranda — Aboard Insignia.

    Rockin’ & Rollin’ in the Med

    3 avril 2022, Alboran Sea ⋅ 🌬 55 °F

    I have no idea if we were in sight of the Rock of Gibraltar as promised around 6:00a. I was fast asleep. It would have been dark anyway, so the rock would have been a silhouette with twinkling lights. But here are a couple of collages … consider them a reminiscence of two of our previous visits to Gibraltar … in 2003 on Celebrity Millennium and in 2017 on Insignia.

    The transit of the Strait of Gibraltar must have been fairly calm. If not, the swells must have been moving in the right direction as I wasn’t aware of any real movement while I slumbered on.

    Conditions have since become rougher … definitely a “one hand to the ship” kind of day.

    The 3:00p “Report from the Bridge” (on the Navigation Channel) had the waves at 11.5 feet (3.5m) … they did look bigger from our deck 7 veranda. (Check out the last video in this footprint.) It was a blowin’ for sure … 31.5 knots (or 36.2 mph). I was expecting worse, so no complaints on either count. The mid-day temp was 57F … but with the wind blowing hard, I bet it felt a heck of a lot colder. I wouldn’t know as I did not venture out on deck today.

    We’ll see if things get better or worse overnight into tomorrow.

    In the meantime, we just wrapped up our very quiet day at sea with dinner and a show. The former was with fellow Coloradans and new friends, Jon and Pat. Unlike us, they are on for the full world cruise. It was a tasty meal in the Grand Dining Room … with no lull in the conversation as we all got to know each other. The latter — the show, that is — featured flutist Suzanne Godfrey. She entertained us with her skill on the flute, piccolo, and the penny whistle … in a show entitled, “Mancini, Movies, and More.”

    Looks like we’ll be rocked to sleep tonight!    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Ever-changing COVID-19 entry requirements.

    New COVID-19 Entry Requirements

    2 avril 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 57 °F

    We returned from lunch today to find a 3-page document outlining the entry requirements for the ports ahead … as they stand as of 1 April 2022.

    The good news is that Italy, Turkey, and Greece require nothing special. Guests are allowed to go ashore independently or with tours … masking required for all three countries — with Italy specifying FFP2 masks — when in public and communal places and when using public transportation … vaccination certificates may be checked when entering indoor venues such as restaurants and museums. All things we’re used to already.

    [KN95 masks, by the way, fit the bill for the FFP2 requirement; the ship has them available for those who need them.]

    Malta has similar requirements. But they threw us a slight curve ball by requiring that vaccine cards be approved through the VeriFLY app. This is for USA and Canada residents only. We handled that easily enough. Mui downloaded the app to his phone, and with a little assistance from Carlos at the purser’s desk, he set up our profiles. Luckily, I had already completed the PLF (passenger locator form) for Malta before departing Colorado Springs, so we had the QR codes handy to complete the process.

    [For those USA/Canada citizens who are having problems with the VeriFLY app and/or completing the Malta PLF, Oceania has arranged a special session tomorrow to assist them.]

    Israel, also has the usual masking, etc. But they threw us a MAJOR curve ball with the most onerous entry requirements.

    Upon arrival in Ashdod, they insist on the Israeli Health Authorities administering PCR tests to everyone. I guess they don’t trust Oceania to administer the tests on the sea day before our arrival to make things less cumbersome. Once tested, but before we get the results, they then require us to go to the terminal to pick up our passports and complete the immigration formalities. That done, we are to return to the ship to await clearance.

    Oceania has been told to expect that the whole process might take as long as 6 hours!!!! Needless to say, despite our rather lengthy port call (6:00a to 10:00p), all-day excursions to places like Jerusalem and Masada are no longer possible. Once I confirmed that Oceania had canceled their all-day ship’s tours, I canceled the private tour I had organized to Masada and the Dead Sea. I’m not sure what we will do when we call on Ashdod now … I still have time to figure that out.

    The one bit of good news in Israel’s onerous requirements is that we’ll be cleared for Haifa by the steps taken in Ashdod, so at least those plans remain intact … for now.

    (P.S. Viking Star, also doing a world cruise, has finagled its itinerary to arrive a day early in Ashdod and remain at anchor to take care of the testing by having the Israeli authorities come aboard the ship. But they are already in the area, so that is easier for them to do. For us to be able to take similar action, one of the three ports en route to Ashdod would have to be canceled. No one wants that after so many cancelations.)

    Frankly, if I had any say in the matter, I’d skip Israel entirely and head to Turkey … plenty of ports to choose from there … could also stop somewhere like Rhodes along the way. But I have no say in the matter. So, we’ll go with the flow wherever the ship takes us.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Lunch at the Waves Grill ... yup, wearing long sleeves now — Aboard Insignia, Atlantic Ocean.
    The pool is off limits today ... the water was spraying higher just minutes ago — Aboard Insignia.1A Toscana tradition ... olive oil & balsamic; roasted garlic; focaccio; parmesan; & wine — Insignia.

    Not Quite thru the Strait

    2 avril 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 61 °F

    We spent a quiet day aboard Insignia, skipping our daily walk on the jogging path on deck 10 to give our feet a rest. I think they deserved it after the 17,500+ steps we walked yesterday in Funchal.

    While it’s not been smooth sailing, the motion of the ocean has not been particularly bothersome. That said, Leslie, our Cruise Director, was on the P/A system a little while ago to warn about rougher conditions ahead. The old adage — “one hand to the ship” — will be the word of the day for the next few days.

    A friend who is on Oceania’s Marina, which is two days ahead of us, mentioned in her blog that they’ve had to battle 60 knot winds and some big swells. We just might have to endure similar conditions as we go through the funnel that connects the Atlantic to the Mediterranean — the Strait of Gibraltar.

    P.S. Leslie checked with Captain Brajcic and advised us that we’ll be in the Strait around 3-5a … and will be passing the Rock of Gibraltar around 6a … weather and sea conditions permitting. Personally, I plan to be tucked into bed and fast asleep. But I’ll see if I can dig up a couple of photos from previous transits for tomorrow’s footprint.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    The yellow fort is one of the places we have yet to explore in Funchal, Madeira Island.
    Madeira Island sailaway.Madeira Island sailaway.

    O Adeus Funchal!

    1 avril 2022, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We have set sail from Funchal!

    Upon our return to Insignia — following a 17,564-step day exploring the city — we headed up to Horizons on deck 10 forward for a bit of tea and goodies to tide us over until dinner.

    I haven’t mentioned the shows we’ve been enjoying on the ship after dinner. Tonight’s show warrants a mention as it featured an Insignia cast member and a crew member. The show started off with Chief Engineer Ned who is from Ukraine. He is apparently a whiz on the electric guitar (his is a small, light, travel version). His mini hard rock concert was definitely a change of music style for the clientele of this ship. Next up was Gabi Gonzalez, who is one of the lead singers in the ship’s cast. Her show — first as a solo performer — was called “Gabi Goes Adele.” She did an outstanding job and her mash-up of Adele and Lady Gaga for the finale gained her a standing ovation.

    We had a wonderful day in Funchal … explored some new-to-us places … and left many more places to check out for the next time we find ourselves calling on Madeira Island. It is a popular stop for ships crossing the Atlantic Ocean, so I’m sure we’ll be back!

    We’ve been warned to expect some rock ‘n roll motion in the Strait of Gibraltar. But that is still more than 24 hours away. In the meantime, we’ll enjoy another day at sea tomorrow.

    (The photos are from our Funchal sailaway.)    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    Santa Catarina Park — Funchal, Madeira Island.
    Christopher Columbus ... Santa Catarina Park — Funchal, Madeira Island.Bird of Paradise ... Santa Catarina Park — Funchal, Madeira Island.Across the main lawn, the cottage-like chapel ... Santa Catarina Park — Funchal.Santa Catarina Park — Funchal, Madeira Island.A "we visited Santa Catarina Park" selfie — Funchal, Madeira Island.Insignia awaits us at her berth ... Santa Catarina Park — Funchal, Madeira Island.These steps lead up from the waterfront to Santa Catarina Park — Funchal, Madeira Island.

    Funchal: Parque de Santa Catarina

    1 avril 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    This lovely park, which overlooks the Bay of Funchal from its hillside perch, covers some 36,000 m2. Alas, we didn’t have time to explore all of it today. No time, certainly, to check out the aviaries, and we only saw two of the sculptures dotted around the park.

    Contrary to the article I had read, however, the Santa Catarina Chapel, which resembles a cottage more than it does a place of worship, was open. As there were people in prayer inside, I was satisfied with just a quick look-see from the door.

    Our stroll did take us to the small pond where fountains were gushing. Swans were a-swimmin’ as well … until a soccer ball landed in the water and they decided it was safer to hide amongst the bushes when the young kids began throwing stones in the pond in their attempts to retrieve the ball.

    Not a quiet park on this spring afternoon … plenty of people of all ages out to make the best of the nice day … young parents with strollers … young lovers in nooks and crannies … elderly locals resting on the benches overlooking the pond … kids playing ball. Nonetheless, our time in the park was a nice “green end” to our day amidst the narrow cobble streets of Funchal.    En savoir plus

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  • EuroCrossing & Türkiye 2022
    A "we are at the Igreja do Colegio" selfie @ the Funchal College of Jesuits — Funchal, Madeira.
    Main Altar ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira Islands.Trompe-l'oeil ceiling ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira.Arch detail in a side chapel ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira.Azulejos in a chapel ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira.Azulejos & marble ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira.80 steps up to the terrace ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira.View from the tower terrace ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira.Pigeons on the tower terrace ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, MadeiraView from the tower terrace ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira.View from the tower terrace ... at the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira.Town Hall near the Igreja do Colegio — College of Jesuits ... Funchal, Madeira.

    Funchal: Jesuit College

    1 avril 2022, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    From Rua da Santa Maria, my research led us to the Funchal College of Jesuits. The article I had read described the building as worth visiting … and promised sculptures and paintings. Plus, it said that we could climb the tower — €1pp — to check out the views.

    If there was a public entrance to the college building, it wasn’t apparent. But we were able to get to the tower by going in through Igreja Do Colegio [College Church] dedicated to St John the Evangelist. Apparently, construction of this Jesuit church was started in 1629 and finished in the first half of the 18th century. The nave is flanked by lateral chapels, the ceiling is painted in trompe-l’oeil, and the walls are decorated with frescoes. I found some beautiful azulejo tiles in some of the chapels … happy camper.

    We found the desk where an attendant was selling the €1pp tickets. Unlike most church towers, this one isn’t particularly tall … 80 steps took us up to the viewing terrace from where we enjoyed the expansive views in all directions.

    This stop turned out to be a little gem … especially since there were very few people visiting … obviously the Jesuit College is not on the must-visit list of most visitors to Funchal.    En savoir plus

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