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Ahmet Erkun
Ahmet Erkun

Ahmet Erkun

74 カ国を旅行しました もっと詳しく
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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    The lakefront promenade welcomes visitors with a dancing fountain — Pallanza, Italy.
    1The dancing fountains on Lake Maggiore — Pallanza, Italy.The bell tower of St Leonard's from the waterfront — Pallanza, Italy.Houses overlooking the piazza on the waterfront — Pallanza, Italy.St Leonard's is the 16th century parish church — Pallanza, Italy.St Leonard's Church — Pallanza, Italy.St Leonard's Church — Pallanza, Italy.2Ceiling detail from one of the side chapels — St Leonard's Church — Pallanza, Italy.The dancing fountains on Lake Maggiore — Pallanza, Italy."We Were Soldiers of Italy" ... WWI Memorial — Pallanza, Italy.Mausoleo Luigi Cadorna, Chief of Staff of the Italian Army in WWI — Pallanza, Italy.Memorial to a cypress tree that was uprooted during a convective storm in August 2019 — Pallanza.A small marina along the lakefront — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Giulia ... originally built by the inventor of Fernet Branca, a famous Italian liqueur.Giardini Villa Giulia ... both the villa and the garden are owned by the city — Pallanza, Italy.Villa Giulia — Pallanza, Italy.The lakefront promenade from Giardini Villa Giulia — Pallanza, Italy.The lakefront promenade from Giardini Villa Giulia — Pallanza, Italy.Delicious dinner at Caffe delle Rose — Pallanza, Italy.

    Verbania: Exploring Pallanza

    7月31日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Technically, we could have walked to Pallanza, Verbania’s lakefront district. But it was still quite hot when we left the house around 4:00p. So, we drove instead. Pure luck landed us a parking spot right on the promenade overlooking Lago Maggiore … not far from the Town Hall.

    My attention was immediately caught by the dancing fountains on the lake … music in the background. Lots of colorful flowers; some statues; a WWI memorial, and a mausoleum just a few steps away. It all combined to make for a pleasant area to wander.

    Spotting the bell tower of St Leonard’s, the 16th century church that was built on the site where once a church from the 13th century stood, we wandered over to take a peek before the 6:00p mass.

    Our steps eventually took us to what was listed as a garden at Villa Giulia … originally built by the man who invented Fernet Branca, one of Italy’s famous liqueurs. There wasn’t much in the way of flowers, but manicured grounds and an expansive view of Lago Maggiore made for a peaceful spot. There was an art exhibit at the villa, but checking out the artist’s work online, we decided it wasn’t to our taste and skipped it.

    Our meander back to the town center gave Mui a chance to check restaurant ratings and menus. We settled on the Caffe delle Rose Bistrot on a side street in the centro storico ... an art-nouveau style restaurant with a retro charm described as a “… journey through time among 1920s counters, artwork, old skylights, and turn-of-the-century advertisements.” The food was delicious … the chef is the Michelin-starred Massimiliano Celeste.

    We skipped dessert at the bistro for a piccolo gelato later from a shop at the top of the street. After our sweet treat, we drove back to the apartment for an early night. We’re hoping to get out early tomorrow to avoid the worst of the traffic on the coastal road.

    ——————————————

    For those interested in the details of what we ate:

    We started out with an amuse-bouche compliments of the chef … a frothy, cold soup consisting of tomatoes, mozzarella, and basilico oil … liquid Caprese salad, if you will. I ordered the Acquerello Risotto, so named for the type of rice used … prepared a la cacio e pepe and garnished with caramelized shallots. It was a primi piatti, but perfectly sized as a main course for me. Mui ordered the grilled octopus, served on a bed of mashed potatoes, and garnished with leeks, raisins, and toasted almonds.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    One last view of Isola di San Giulio before we bid farewell to Orta — Italy.
    Open space living/kitchenette area at the apartment — Verbania, Italy.Welcome kit from the hosts — Verbania, Italy.The outside space is a good-sized balcony with self-watering plants — Verbania, Italy.View from the balcony — Verbania, Italy.Community garden patches and distant mountains — Verbania, Italy.Our sleeping quarters have skylights in lieu of windows — Verbania, Italy.The facilities with a second access door to the balcony — Verbania, Italy.

    OtR: Orta to Verbania

    7月31日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We had arranged with Nicolò to drive us to the covered parking structure at 9:30a … easier than wheeling our bags over the cobblestones. We were up early, however, and even with one last wander down to Piazza Motta after breakfast, we were ready to leave by 9:00a. So was Nicolò. Andiamo!

    In hindsight, we should have avoided the heavy traffic on the coastal road along Lago Maggiore and gone directly to Verbania. Stresa and the other towns along the lake were packed with visitors. ‘Entitled’ drivers disregarded the red and green lights managing traffic in the construction zones, causing unnecessary back-ups. Very frustrating.

    Having received notification that the apartment we’d organized through Booking.com was ready for us to check-in, we jiggled our plans and re-programmed the GPS to take us there. We would do our sightseeing after settling into the apartment instead.

    By 10:30a, I was following the instructions to collect the keys and open the gate to the apartment complex. Parking — free — was one of the reasons why we had booked a place in a quiet neighborhood on the outskirts of Verbania instead of within the hustle and bustle of the resort towns along the lake. It turned out to be a good decision.

    While the place lacks the charm of the Orta cottage, it has all the amenities we need for what we anticipate will be a sightseeing-heavy five-night stay. The hosts even left us a “welcome kit” of snacks and breakfast ingredients to get us started. That we won’t have to deal with the busy coastal roads to get everywhere is a bonus, as is the far-more wallet friendly nightly rate.

    After settling in, we drove to a nearby supermarket to top up on groceries and returned to have a light lunch on the balcony. Browsing a coffee table book that our hosts had left for us, we also came up with a sightseeing plan for the next several days.

    The blue-sky summer day temp was still a bit too hot for sightseeing, so Mui decided to take a nap before we ventured out. I used the time while he rested to do a bit of bookkeeping and a few chores … a productive use of our downtime.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    The oratory where tonight's dinner event took place — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Outdoor chapel at the oratory where tonight's dinner event took place — Orta San Giulio.Honoring the Alpini troops of Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Cheers! Dinner event honoring the Alpini troops of Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Selfie with Nicolò, our host at Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Sagra Alpina

    7月30日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    Yesterday, Nicolò invited us to dinner. “Join us if you would like some good, simple food,” was the way he worded the invitation. He went on to describe it as an event that is part of a local festival.

    The festival in question, which is being kicked off with tonight’s community dinner, is the “Sagra Alpina.” It’s a commemorative event that concludes on August 3 with a flag-raising ceremony, and a parade to lay flags at monuments. It is designed to honor the “suffering of the Alpini of Orta.”

    Unfamiliar with the Alpini, I looked it up on the internet. Turns out that the Alpini are the special mountain infantry unit of the Italian Army. These troops apparently distinguished themselves in combat during WWI and WWII.

    The dinner was being served in the courtyard of the Oratorio Sacro Cuore [Oratory of the Sacred Heart] … next door to Casa Longhi. We didn’t have far to go. Amongst the first to arrive, we had our pick of the communal tables. We opted to sit in the back and observe the festivities. We were later joined by some of the local families who seemed to get a kick out of our presence as we were the only non-Ortans present.

    The menu offered a couple of choices … all ‘nonna-style’ cooking. Mui went up to order our food, which was delivered by waitresses who came around collecting the tickets that were issued when placing the order. It was all very well organized.

    We both opted for the Bolognese pasta since Mui thought the bistecca might well be horse meat, which is still part of traditional Italian cuisine. Our pasta came with a side salad and dessert … chocolate torta. Good food. Good fun. And a great way to wrap up our stay in Orta.

    Tomorrow we move on … though we don’t really want to leave. However, it is too late to cancel our prepaid accommodations in Verbania, Italy. Casa Longhi is booked anyway. Hopefully, the newcomers will enjoy their stay as much as we have.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    A gleaming red Fiat Cinquecento ... an older model, I believe — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    This feline is the only living creature we encounter on the Motta Climb to Santa Maria Assunta.Kitty cat on the Motta Climb — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The Church of Santa Maria Assunta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The Church of Santa Maria Assunta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The Church of Santa Maria Assunta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Festival preparations underway in Piazza Mottta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Taking advantage of festival decorations in Piazza Mottta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Arches add charm to the street — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Eerily Quiet

    7月30日, イタリア ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Our stepped-meander down from Sacro Monte to Orta took us to the top of the Motta Climb.

    We’d strolled up the Climb from the piazza to the Church of Santa Maria Assunta yesterday … only to find it locked up at the time. When we noticed that it was open this afternoon, we went inside for a quick look.

    The current church sits on the site of a smaller church that was built in the 15th century as a votive offering to the Virgin of the Consolation after the end of an epidemic. Over the centuries, the building was enlarged to its present shape. Its dedication to the Madonna of the Assumption took place in 1560.

    The lights were off inside the church, so we didn’t view the frescoes decorating the interior under the best circumstances. Nonetheless, I am glad we had a chance to go inside.

    As we continued on to the cottage through Piazza Motta, we noticed that it was eerily quiet … considering the time of day. In fact, the whole town seemed especially peaceful. So different from yesterday at the same time. However, there were floral decorations that hadn’t been in the piazza before. Preparations were obviously underway for the local festival that Nicolò had mentioned to us.

    Stopping to take a few photos, we headed home to rest up for our evening engagement.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    View from our hike up to Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Chapel XI ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Chapel XI: St Francis obtains the indulgence of the Portiuncula ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Italy.Chapel XI ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Chapel XIII: St Francis being led naked through the streets of Assisi ... Sacro Monte di Orta.Chapel XIII ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Chapel XIII ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Chapel XIV: St Francis Before the Sultan of Egypt ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta, Italy.Chapel XV: dedicated to St Francis receiving the stigmata on Mount Verna ... Sacro Monte di Orta.The New Chapel was never completed ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta, Italy.Chapel XVI: St Francis Returns to Assisi from Mt Verna ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta, Italy.Chapel XVI: St Francis Returns to Assisi from Mt Verna ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta, Italy.Chapel XVII: The death of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Canobian Chapel (XX): Canonization of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Canonization of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Canonization of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Canonization of St Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.From Chapel XX toward the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Italy.Portico of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Italy.The Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The Madonna della Pietà is behind glass at the altar of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis.The Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis ... Sacro Monte di Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.2Isola di San Giulio from the terrace of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis.Isola di San Giulio from the terrace of the Church of Saints Nicholas and Francis.Statue of St Francis on the stepped path down from Sacro Monte di Orta to Orta — Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Sacro Monte di Orta

    7月30日, イタリア ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Another not-to-be-missed place in the area, we were told, is the UNESCO World Humanity Heritage Site of “Riserva Speciale del Sacro Monte di Orta” … one of four sites in the Lago Maggiore region that, overall, have been designated “Sacri Monti.”

    At 1,300-feet (400m), the mount is the highest point of the peninsula on which Orta is located. It is considered sacred for its “… monumental complex of 21 chapels, with 900 frescoes, 336 statues, and the Church of the Saints Nicholas and Francis … .” The complex, which is the only one dedicated to the life of St Francis of Assisi instead of Christ, was constructed over 100 years … starting in 1590.

    While the site can be accessed by a stepped-climb from Piazza Motta, we decided to head there after our visit to Legro. Thus our route took us up the back way … the road that is used to access Sacro Monte by car. It was a steep climb, which wouldn’t have been bad if it had not been such a hot afternoon. At least we saw some lovely views through breaks in the trees.

    Once at the top, Mui and I split up, He went right to check out a few chapels and then find a place to sit and wait for me. I went left. The downside of the direction I took was that I basically saw the chapels in reverse order, starting with the death of St Francis. No matter … I sorted and ordered them appropriately here.

    Mui and I met up at the Church of the Saints Nicholas and Francis. We peeked inside the church to see the wooden statue of the Madonna della Pietà, which dates back to the 10th century.

    After enjoying the views of Isola di San Giulio from the terrace, we took the stepped path down to Orta. Time to rest up before our dinner engagement.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Our walk starts out flat on the road along the shoreline of Lake Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Glimpse of Lake Orta from the shoreline road — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Mansions on the hillsides overlook Lake Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Almost entirely hidden by the trees — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Villa Crespi ... once a vacation home; today a hotel — Orta San Giulio, Italy.An enchanting weathervane — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Welcome to "the Cinema on the Wall" ... Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco honoring Ennio Moricone ... Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro, the Painted Village — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Silvana Mangano in "Bitter Rice" ... fresco in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Fresco in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy."Bread, Love and Dreams" with Gina Lollobrigida and Vittorio de Sica ... Fresco in Legro — Orta.Oratorio di Santa Caterina in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Oratorio di Santa Caterina in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Oratorio di Santa Caterina in Legro — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … The Painted Village

    7月30日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    One of the places mentioned under the sightseeing section of the Casa Longhi house booklet was Legro … described as the painted village. Can you say murals? Or maybe frescoes?

    After returning to Orta from our trip to Isola di San Giulio, we had a delicious lunch at Lilo Fieno, one of the restaurants in town, and then set off for the hamlet of Legro.

    The 30-minute walk to get there was fairly easy … along the shoreline of Lake Orta first, and then inland past Villa Crespi. The latter is billed as a hotel with luxurious suites and Michelin 3 star cuisine. It is housed in a 19th century Moorish-influenced mansion — complete with a minaret-like tower — that was once the holiday home of a wealthy cotton merchant. Certainly eye catching … but out-of-place, I thought, in the Lake Orta setting.

    What qualified this walk as ‘fairly’ easy instead of just easy was the temperature. With little shade along the way, the sun was downright brutal. Luckily we had water with us, and were able to replenish our supply when we detoured to the train station for Mui to order a coffee as the cost of using the facilities.

    Legro is one of the 200+ places in Italy famed for frescoes painted using the traditional techniques … by artists both well-known and unknown. The theme in Legro gives it the nickname of “the Cinema on the Wall” and features movies that have been filmed around Lake Orta.

    I’m not sure if we found all 60 of the frescoes, but our meander did uncover a number of them … including the one painted in honor of Ennio Morricone, who wrote many movie scores … “The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly” amongst them.

    Unfortunately, some of the frescoes were difficult to photograph … blocked by trees or simply because of the access angles. The Italian movies represented by the frescoes were unfamiliar to us … except for “A Farewell to Arms” … same with most of the names of the stars … except for Gina Lollobrigida, Rock Hudson, Vittorio de Sica.

    A quick stop at the Oratorio de Santa Caterina before we left Legro, and then we moved on to our next stop of the day.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    We begin today's sightseeing at Isola di San Giulio, Italy.
    From the Orta to Isola di San Giulio boat ride — Italy.Mater Ecclesiae (Mother of the Church) Abbey — Isola di San Giulio, Italy.The basilica and the bell tower with the lantern tower to the left — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyBasilica — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyCeiling and roof detail at the basilca — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyDoctors of the Church fresco @ the basilica — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyThe Nativity fresco @ the basilica — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyOne of the two consoles of the basilica's pipe organ — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyThe reliquary of St Julius in the crypt of the basilica — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFresco on the wall of a building that houses a small shop — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyGlimpse of Orta from Isola di San Giulio — Italy.From the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyA fresco on the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyElaborate door knocker ... the pedestrian road on Isola di San Giulio — Italy.From the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyFrom the pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island — Isola di San Giulio, ItalyBirds bathing in the waves — Isola di San Giulio, Italy.Departing Isola di San Giulio to return to Orta — Italy.On the boat ride back to Orta San Giulio — Lake Orta, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Isola di San Giulio

    7月30日, イタリア ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    First on our sightseeing agenda today was Isola di San Giulio, an island in the middle of Lake Orta.

    People have lived on the island since the Neolithic and Iron Ages, but it was abandoned for a time during the Roman Period. It later became home to a Duke of Lombard and to Berengar II, a King of Italy. Otto the Great, a Holy Roman Emperor, lived on the island for a while during the 10th century. Today just a few families live on the island permanently, allowing it to maintain its old world charm.

    There are a couple of companies that operate the boats that ferry people to the island and the other towns that rim the lakeshore. We simply chose the next one leaving from Piazza Motta, purchasing tickets for the island transfer only.

    Isola di San Giulio is thought to have been a pre-Christian cultural center … perhaps the reason why Julius of Novara — now St Julius — “reached the island sailing on his cloak, freed it from dragons [pagans], and built a church here that was dedicated to the Twelve Apostles.” It is generally accepted that he lived and died on the island during the latter part of the 5th century.

    That first church was later replaced by larger ones. The current Romanesque-style church — Basilica di San Giulio — dates back to the 12th century … modified during the following centuries. Today, it is part of a Benedictine monastery, which was built on the site of a fortified castle that was razed in 1841 to make room for it.

    Arriving at the island, we visited the basilica first. I was immediately struck by the frescoes that date back to the 14th and 16th centuries. While not pristine by any means, they are in remarkably good shape. Before leaving the basilica, we went down to the crypt where we saw the reliquary of St Julius … and a small exhibit of architectural features uncovered during archaeological excavations.

    Next, we took a stroll on the narrow pedestrian road that circumnavigates the island. Along the path, signs encourage people to walk in silence and meditate. The aphorisms were in Italian, German, English, and French, making Google Translate unnecessary … The Way of the Silence … Listen to the Silence … Walls are in Your Mind … Listen to the Water, the Wind, Your Steps. I think that adding a few benches along the road would give people a chance to sit and enjoy the serene atmosphere as they meditate.

    As popular as the island is, we were surprised at how few people we encountered on the island … even though a good number of people had disembarked the boat with us. No more than 10 people passed us as we slowly strolled the road. Where had everyone disappeared to? There were no cafés around … the buildings themselves were not open to visitors … the few unobtrusive shops were still closed. I had read that the perimeter walk took just 10 minutes, so perhaps they had come, walked, and left. We weren’t amongst the fast strollers … it took us a good 60 minutes to return to the ferry landing.

    A couple of boats came and went, but they were heading from the island to other towns along the shoreline. Sitting under a tree as we waited for the boat back to Orta, we enjoyed the sound of the waves gently coming ashore … entertained by small birds bathing in the water and searching out goodies the receding waves might have left behind.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Starting the day with a bit of writing on the balcony ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Cup of coffee anyone? ... Casa Longhi — Casa San Giulio, Italy.After-breakfast balcony time @ Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: Day 2 … Peaceful

    7月30日, イタリア ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Up at 6:00a. Finished the laundry. Then sat out on the balcony and did some writing.

    Comfortably crisp morning temperature; dew on the grass in the courtyard; barely audible piano melodies from one of the nearby houses … someone practicing perhaps; birds chirping unseen; carts rolling on the cobblestone streets and alleys every once in a while … perhaps carrying goods to nearby establishments; an early-morning stroller or two; church bells tolling the time. Very peaceful. So nice, in fact, that I didn’t even mind the overcast skies.

    When breakfast was ready, I joined Mui inside … worried that the bees gathering nectar from the flowers might not give us peace after we brought out the food. Afterward, I went back up to the balcony to relax with a cup of hot tea … Mui joining me with his cup of coffee.

    It was definitely best to make the most of our outdoor space this morning since the balcony is in the sun from about mid-afternoon until about 7:30p.

    If we had more days in Orta after today, we probably would have stayed home most of the day. As it is, it was soon time to go off and do some sightseeing.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Isola di San Giulio sits in the middle of Lake Orta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Isola di San Giulio — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Piazza Motta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Palazzo Della Comunita ... Piazza Motta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Frescoes on the Palazzo Della Comunita ... Piazza Motta — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Parish church of San Pietro in Carcegna — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Glimpse of Lake Orta from the parish church — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Afternoon tea on the balcony 🧸 — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Orta San Giulio, Italy.Chiesa di San Rocco — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Panorama from an overlook — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Public garden at Palazzo Comunale — Orta San Giulio, Italy.In the public garden at Palazzo Comunale — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Palazzo Comunale — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Palazzo Comunale — Orta San Giulio, Italy.At the bottom of the 'Motta Climb' — Orta San Giulio, Italy.On the 'Motta Climb' — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Santa Maria di Assunta ... at the top of the 'Motta Climb' — Orta San Giulio, Italy.View from the top of the 'Motta Climb' — Orta San Giulio, Italy.One of the older buildings on the 'Motta Climb' — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Cobblestone street branching off from the 'Motta Climb' — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Cobblestone street that took us home from the top of the 'Motta climb' — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Gelato ... a sweet treat on the way home — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Mui at the main entrance to Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: “I Borghi Più Belli d’Italia”

    7月29日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    It took only one errand run when we first arrived, followed by a stroll around town later, to determine that Orta San Giulio deserves being described as “one of the most beautiful villages of Italy.”

    The early evening was cooler and more comfortable when we went out for a post-dinner passegiata (walk). Peaceful as well … the day-trippers gone; locals and overnight visitors at dinner or at home … just a few strollers out and about.

    Our meandering stroll took us first to Piazza Motta where we studied the remnants of the frescoes adorning the 16th century Palazzo Della Comunita … where town representatives used to meet.

    We then walked along narrow, cobblestone streets and alleys … lined with colorful buildings sporting flowers in window boxes; found a beautiful garden at the Palazzo Comunale (Town Hall) … with lakeside views that gave us a closer glimpse of Isola di San Giulio in the middle of Lake Orta; peeked into small churches … where the empty pews enhanced the peaceful serenity; and went up the cobblestone stepped ‘Motta climb’ … lined with some of the oldest houses in Orta and topped with Santa Maria di Assunta, the parish church that was locked up for the day.

    Eventually, we followed a narrow cobblestone alley — dodging the mosquitoes that came out at dusk — to return to our cottage … ready for a quiet evening.

    An excellent first day in Orta.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Welcome to Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.
    Looking back to the main entrance to the property ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The courtyard is the family's space, but we never saw them use it ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio.The building to the right is our cottage ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Our two-story cottage from the courtyard ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Entrance to our cottage ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.A small but thoughtful gesture ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.The balcony is off the bedroom ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.View from the balcony ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.View from the balcony ... Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.Lake Orta and Piazza Motto is just a one-minute walk from Casa Longhi — Orta San Giulio, Italy.

    Orta: Casa Longhi

    7月29日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Orta — short for Orta San Giulio — is a lovely little town overlooking Lake Orta … in Italy’s Piedmont Region.

    The plan was to meet Nicolò, our host, at 4:00p. The GPS gave our arrival as 3:20p, however. So I texted him and he agreed to meet us earlier at the covered parking lot where the free parking for Casa Longhi is located. Once we met up, he opened the barrier gate for the garage, led us to the designated parking floor, helped us transfer our carry-on bags to his car, and drove us to our accommodations.

    Casa Longhi, which dates back to 1459, is Nicolò’s family home. In fact, the family still live here. They converted an attached two-story cottage into the rental that we booked through Booking.com … for an unbelievably reasonable price for the area (especially in hindsight).

    The apartment has been modernized with all the conveniences … without losing its old-time charm. Simply lovely … warm and welcoming. Pristine. A cute little balcony with a courtyard and street view of the neighborhood. Quiet … despite its proximity to centro storico just a one-minute walk away. Most deserving of the excellent reviews that led us to book the place.

    Had we known back when we booked Casa Longhi that we would fall in love with the cottage as well as the town, we would have made this place our base for the duration for our time in Italy. As it is, we’ll be here for just two nights.

    After dropping off our bags, we went for a stroll … primarily an errands run. It was hot and Piazza Motta was crowded with day-trippers. The eateries lining the square were doing a booming business; small boats were ferrying people back and forth to Isola San Giulio in the middle of Lake Orta.

    Purchases completed, we returned to Casa Longhi to get settled and start our laundry. We had wine and snacks for dinner, and then went back out to explore the town.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    1The Matterhorn comes out to bid us farewell — Zermatt, Switzerland.
    Except for two other early birds, we have the Zermatt Shuttle train car to ourselves.Honoring firefighters who fight the red dragon of wildfires — near Brig, Switzerland.Welcome to the Italian Alps ... en route to Domodossola, Italy.Cemetery at Domodossola, Italy.Domodossola, Italy.The parish church dedicated to Saints Gervaio and Protasio — Domodossola, Italy.The parish church dedicated to Saints Gervaio and Protasio — Domodossola, Italy.The parish church dedicated to Saints Gervaio and Protasio — Domodossola, Italy.The parish church dedicated to Saints Gervaio and Protasio — Domodossola, Italy.The parish church dedicated to Saints Gervaio and Protasio — Domodossola, Italy.The tower of the parish church dedicated to Saints Gervaio and Protasio — Domodossola, Italy.Domodossola, Italy.Piazza Mercado — Domodossola, Italy.Piazza Mercado — Domodossola, Italy.Piazza Mercado — Domodossola, Italy.2Cannoli and Sfogliatella in one of the bakery windows — Domodossola, Italy.Piazza Mercado — Domodossola, Italy.Domodossola, Italy.Domodossola, Italy.Domodossola, Italy.Lunch @ Alibi by Urban — Domodossola, Italy.Mural @ Alibi by Urban — Domodossola, Italy.On our way to Orta, Italy.

    OtR: Zermatt to Orta … Domodossola

    7月29日, イタリア ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Today was moving day … and the Matterhorn came out for all of one minute this morning. Just to bid us goodbye.

    The cool morning temperature made for a bracing walk to the Zermatt Bahnhof. With everything going smoothly, we were on the 9:35a shuttle down to Täsch. The train was not at all crowded at that hour … only two others in the train carriage with us.

    At the Täsch Terminal, we found our car and loaded up. The barrier once again recognized the license plate and we were soon on our way to northern Italy. With blue skies overhead, we enjoyed a scenic drive to Visp … and onward to Brig.

    The plan was to drive the Simplon Pass to cross into Italy. But because we were using the back roads, the GPS kept re-routing us to the Simplon Tunnel car train. Eventually, we gave in and complied with the GPS directions … we’ll just have to drive the pass on the way back to Switzerland.

    When we arrived at the train station, we were surprised to see no cars queued up. The mystery was solved a few minutes later when we got our turn at the ticket kiosk. Due to technical issues, they were not sure if the train was going to make the run.

    Just as we were debating switching plans again, the manager came up to say the issue had been resolved and the train was a go. Good. We bought tickets for the next train, followed the instructions of the handler, and drove onto the train … exactly as we did for the Kandersteg to Goppenstein car train just a few days ago.

    This train ride was different from the previous one. For one thing, it was a longer ride … 20 minutes from Brig, Switzerland to Iselle, Italy. Second, there were no views at all … the entire 12.4-mile (20 km) ride was inside the Simplon Tunnel, cut through the Alps in 1906 at an elevation below the pass. For most of the 20th century, this tunnel was the longest in the world.

    *** The current record holder is a train tunnel in Japan that is 13. miles (22.2 km) long.

    Since the train shaved quite a bit of time off of our drive, we decided to stop in Domodossola, a city in Italy’s Piedmont Region … at the foot of the Italian Alps. The city’s history dates back to 12 BCE when the Romans conquered the region. It is, however, better known for declaring itself a free partisan republic in September 1944 … thus participating in the WWII uprising against the Germans … even if the rebellion didn’t last long.

    Finding street parking, we walked the short distance to Piazza Mercado. On the way, we stopped to take a peek inside the parish church dedicated to Saints Gervasio and Protasio … well preserved frescoes on the underside of the arch at the entrance.

    We then strolled the streets and the piazza. There were more people than I expected to see here. Turns out that Domodossola is a popular place from which to visit Sacro Monte Calvario … a pilgrimage site that is on the UNESCO Humanity Heritage List.

    With our tummies grumbling that it was lunch time, Mui found a highly rated pizzeria — Alibi by Urban … on a back street … away from the crowds. We felt that it was too hot to sit outdoors, so we sat inside … and had it all to ourselves. We ordered a prosciutto pizza and a salad to share. Good food.

    We skipped dessert at Alibi in order to get a sweet treat from a highly rated gelateria. Yummy! And then back on the road to Orta … an uneventful drive from Domodossola.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Staying in at the apartment, we are rewarded with a glimpse of the Matterhorn — Zermatt, Switzerland
    Selfie photo-op with the Matterhorn — Zermatt, Switzerland.The clouds brighten as the sun goes down, but we don't get a colorful sunset — Zermatt, Switzerland.At nearly 10:00p, we still ave a glimpse of the Matterhorn — Zermatt, Switzerland.A lit up cross on the hillside — Zermatt, Switzerland

    Zermatt: Day 2 … Matterhorn Peeks Out

    7月28日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    After our museum visit, we walked back to the apartment.

    The plan was to go back out for dinner in the village. In the end, however, we decided on wine and snacks on our balcony.

    Our reward? Matterhorn peeking out through the clouds. The mountain never quite ‘came out fully’ but we did get glimpses of it even as night fell and the lights of Zermatt started twinkling.

    Tomorrow we leave Zermatt for the next stop of our trip.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    The living space of an old village house — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.
    Drawer beds (see photo within the photo) allowed two or three to sleep in a bed — Matterhorn Museum.Cowshed/barn with traditional Quartzite stone slab roof — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.Taxidermied owl and hawk — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.Alpine dairy where cheese was made after the cows were moved to Alpine pastures — Matterhorn Museum.Teahouses back in the day also served as gift shops — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.Mock up of the English Church ... the mirror makes it look whole — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.St Jodern returning on the back of satan with the bell gifted by the Pope — Matterhorn Museum.The first mountaineering boots were made by Burgener in his small shoe atelier in Zermatt in 1879.Mountaineering boots through the years — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.The Seasons — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.Female ibex and kid — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.Foxes being watched by a marmot — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.Nutcracker — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.Replica of the Monte Rosa, one of the first hotels built in 1865 with the rise in tourism in ZermattMiniature rooms and replica of the Monte Rosa Hotel front desk — Matterhorn Museum."X" marks the spot where four of the seven first ascenders fell to their death — Matterhorn Museum.In the words of Peter Taugwalder, Jr. — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.The second rope that snapped as four of the seven first ascenders fell — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.Doll with traditional 20th century costume of Zermatt worn on Sundays — Matterhorn Museum, Zermatt.

    Zermatt: Day 2 … Matterhorn Museum

    7月28日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    With rain sprinkling again, we headed to the Matterhorn Museum after our meander around the village.

    The museum is open from 2:00p to 6:00p daily … CHF 10pp senior rate. It is promoted as Zermatlantis … a reference to the exhibits that take visitors back to the old days … and perhaps also to its subterranean construction.

    The museum is well done, but it was very crowded. No surprise I guess since indoor rainy-day activities in Zermatt are limited. Mock-up of buildings provide insight into life in the 19th century. Taxidermied animals familiarize visitors with some of the creatures of the area. Most of the signage is in German only. Nonetheless, the exhibits were interesting.

    When we had dinner at the Pollux Hotel, we’d been told of the connection the hotel has with the Matterhorn. Apparently, Peter Taugwalder, an experienced mountain guide — and uncle of the men who built the Pollux Hotel —was one of the seven to make the first ascent of the Matterhorn via the Hörnli route.

    The party made it to the summit, but on the way down, one of the climbers — the most inexperienced of the seven men — slipped and knocked another climber off his feet. Within seconds, four of the seven were falling to their deaths. The remaining three, including Taugwalder, were on a separate rope that wasn’t strong enough to arrest the pull of the four men who were falling and snapped. The rope in question is now exhibited in the museum. What struck me was the thinness of the rope … it didn’t look to be strong enough to stop one man from falling, let alone four of them.

    We left the museum wondering if the Matterhorn will ever give up the location of the body of Lord Douglas … the only one of the four bodies that has yet to be recovered.

    *** For anyone interested, this link tells one version of the story of the misadventure: https://everesttoday.com/four-lives-one-rope-th…    もっと詳しく

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    Welcome to Hinterdorf ... the old village — Zermatt, Switzerland.
    The one-street wide Hinterdorf makes for a charming setting for a stroll — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Inderbinen Fountain ... at the bottom of Hinterdirfstrasse — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.Hinterdorf — Zermatt, Switzerland.

    Zermatt: Day 2 … Hinterdorf

    7月28日, スイス ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    Old Zermatt — aka Hinterdorf [rear village] — made for a short but delightful stroll … from where it branches off Bahnhofstrasse down to Inderbinen Fountain … honoring Ulrich Inderbinen, a local mountain guide who climbed the Matterhorn 371 times … the last time when he was 90 years old.

    One street long, Old Town consists of 30 or so buildings constructed in the traditional style of the original Valais mountain farmers. The narrow street is lined on either side with barns, stores, stables and old houses that date back to the period between the 16th and 18th centuries. The dark timber buildings, some of which stand on stone stilts to keep mice out, are described as follows:

    “ … made of larch, the tree that dominates Zermatt’s surroundings. Rich in resin, the timber is particularly resistant to pests. The houses are roofed with heavy slabs of rock, which compress the timber supporting it and make the construction more robust still. Sunshine and weather darken the wood, and over the course of many years it turns black. As a result, the building becomes much more effective at absorbing and storing heat.”

    The street is easy to overlook. In fact, we encountered only 4 or 5 couples wandering down Hinterdorfstrasse while we were there. So glad the clerk at the visitor center encouraged us to visit the street … and doubly glad the weather cooperated.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Mountaineers' Wall ... or so I dubbed this landmark — Zermatt, Switzerland.
    Detail from the Mountaineers' Wall — Zermatt, Switzerland.The Marmot Fountain — Zermatt, Switzerland.The free community library is housed in a building from 1730 — Zermatt, Switzerland.St Mauritius Church — Zermatt, Switzerland.St Mauritius Church — Zermatt, Switzerland.Noah's ark painting on the ceiling of the nave ... St Mauritius Church — Zermatt, Switzerland.Bronze Alphorn ... in memory of the seven first ascenders of the Matterhorn — Zermatt, Switzerland.The bronze alphorn is on the parish hall steps — Zermatt, Switzerland.A quaint planter on the terrace of the parish hall — Zermatt, Switzerland.Pretzels anyone? — Zermatt, Switzerland.The Vispa rises from the glaciers in the mountains and runs through the valley — Zermatt.In the window of a gift shop — Zermatt, Switzerland.The English Church (St Peter's) — Zermatt, Switzerland.The English Church (St Peter's) — Zermatt, Switzerland.Charming old building on a back street — Zermatt, Switzerland.The charm of the old building is enhanced by colorful flowers — Zermatt, SwitzerlandNude watering the flowers 😜 — Zermatt, Switzerland.The friendship garden — Zermatt, Switzerland.Columns in the friendship garden — Zermatt, Switzerland.Mountain Guides Memorial (center) at the Mountaineers' Cemetery — Zermatt, Switzerland.Grave of the Unknown Climber in the St Mauritius churchyard — Zermatt, Switzerland.World War II Monument — Zermatt, Switzerland.The Vispa on our way to the apartment (circled in pink) — Zermatt, Switzerland.

    Zermatt: Day 2 … Exploring the Village

    7月28日, スイス ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    Klein Matterhorn — aka Glacier Paradise — was socked in when we woke up. No surprise, I guess. There was snow in the forecast for the high peaks. The forecast called for more sunshine than rain in Zermatt village, however, so we flipped our plans for the day upside down to meander around the village in the morning, keeping our fingers crossed that the mountains would clear later in the day. That hope was squashed, unfortunately. Nonetheless, we had a very enjoyable day in Zermatt.

    Following a shortcut from the apartment that had us crossing the railway tracks, we walked to the village center after breakfast.

    Out steps took us first to what I have dubbed the “memorial wall’ to the Matterhorn climbers and the popular fountain decorated with mischievous bronze marmots. Stopping to photograph some of the older buildings that now house eateries and shops, we came to the parish hall where a bronze Alphorn installed on the steps of the parish hall attracted our attention. Decorated with bronze larch branches, it is a memorial of sorts to the first seven who ascended the Matterhorn in 1865. Had I known in advance about the tiny figures hidden in the branches, I would have taken some detail shots. Oh well.

    Next, we peeked inside the St Mauritius Church. Historical records indicate that there has been a church by that name in Zermatt since 1285 … likely a smaller version … slightly different location. Today’s church was constructed between 1913-1916; the clock in the tower was installed in 1925; and the Noah’s Ark painting on the ceiling of the nave was added during the complete renovation that was undertaken in 1980. After our brief stop at the church, we went to check out what’s left of the Hinterdorf … which I will leave to another footprint. Similarly, I’ll write in a separate footprint about the Matterhorn Museum we visited when it started to rain.

    While I detoured to the 1870’s English Church — aka St Peter’s — to check out the stained glass windows, Mui went in search of a place for lunch. We ended up at the restaurant at the Pollux Hotel again … ordering from the daily menu this time and enjoying our food on the sidewalk terrace despite the light rain that started to fall. By the time we were done with our lunch, the rain had let up, so we continued our wander.

    Our first stop was at the Freundschaftsgarten [Friendship Garden], a small park with a pond, benches, and a couple of sculptures. Peacefully serene. From there we went to the Mountaineers’ Cemetery, and then to the Matterhorn Museum I mentioned above was the last stop of our day.

    By late afternoon, our feet were screaming for some relief. Time to return to the apartment to rest-up.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    The view from our apartment ... Zermatt Village and the Matterhorn.
    The studio apartment is small but has all the necessities for a two-night stay — Zermatt.Enjoyed listening to the band as we perused menus in downtown Zermatt, Switzerland.Delicious meal ... at the café at the Pollux Hotel — Zermatt, Switzerland.

    Zermatt: Checked-In & Dined

    7月27日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Wake Up to Matterhorn …

    That was the name of the listing on AirBNB for the apartment we ended up booking for our two night stay in Zermatt. Catchy title … and true … until the clouds moved in soon after we checked in. But that was later … let’s get to the apartment first.

    We knew that we’d have to walk a bit from downtown Zermatt to the apartment and then negotiate 62 steps to get to Haus Fontana. A few wrong turns added to the distance, but using a video and map provided by the property manager, we got ourselves back on track. The good news is that we got to the apartment before the drizzle we encountered soon after leaving the train station turned to a downpour.

    From the photos included with the AirBNB listing, we knew the studio apartment was going to be small. A sofa bed in lieu of a real bed; a tiny kitchenette. Good enough for two nights certainly … and clean. And in a residential area away from the hub-bub of busy downtown.

    Arriving at the apartment around 4:45p, we immediately went out on the balcony to check out the scenery. Good thing we did. With the rain increasing, we managed to see the Matterhorn for a few minutes before the clouds veiled it. Tomorrow’s Matterhorn forecast is for snow, so we’ll have to cross our fingers and hope we have another chance to see it before we leave on Tuesday.

    When the rain let up, we headed back into the village for dinner. We were welcomed by a band playing on the main drag. Not sure if they play every day or just on weekends, but it was a nice touch.

    Checking out the various dining options, we settled on casual terrace dining offered at the Pollux Hotel. It was cold, but not uncomfortably so at 6:00p. We took one of the tables on the terrace overlooking the main street, sipped our wine, and enjoyed our food while watching the crowds passing by. I ordered the Wiener schnitzel … served with potato wedges seasoned with herbs, Parmesan, and garlic; steamed vegetables; and cranberry jam. Mui ordered the sliced “Zurich style” veal … meaning it had a creamy mushroom sauce … served with rösti and steamed vegetables. Both dishes were accompanied by a crisp salad with a delicious dressing. By the time we were finished, we had no room left in our tummies for dessert.

    It started to rain again and the temperature cooled considerably while we were eating. By the time we left the restaurant just before 8:00p, the rain was steady. On the way to the apartment, we stopped at Denner for groceries — breakfast fixings mostly. We got back to the apartment before the rain turned into a downpour.

    While there is snow in the forecast tomorrow for the high peaks, it’s rain with which we will have to contend. The woman at the Visitor Center said that it would be clearing up in the afternoon … in town at least. She gave us a few ideas for things to do, so we’ll be spending tomorrow exploring Zermatt.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Welcome to Gornergrat, the top station on the Gornergratbahn — Switzerland.
    Of course we need a selfie with the Matterhornt from this vantage point — Gornergrat Station.This engine is one of the three that operated the first generation of the Gornerbahn.Two icons in one ... not bad for a 'self-selfie' 😊 — Gornergrat Station — Switzerland.View in the opposite direction with Gornersee in the foreground — Gornergrat Station, Switzerland.Rock Cairns — Gornergrat Station, Switzerland.Gornergrat Chapel ... dedicated to St Bernhard von Aosta — Gornergrat, Switzerland.Gornergrat Chapel — Gornergrat, Switzerland.L to R: Saints Maurice, Bernard, and Theodule — Gornergrat Chapel.One can find all things Matterhorn at the shops (photo of a poster) — Gornergrat, Switzerland.L to R: Gornergletscher; Monte Rosa Massif; Grenzgletscher — Gornergrat Station, Switzerland.L to R: Santa Rosa Massif, Gretzgletcher, and the Liskamm — Gornergrat, Switzerland.Panorama of the expansive view from the terrace — Gornergrat, Switzerland.The thinning Gornergletscher from the terrace — Gornergrat, Switzerland.The Monte Rosa Massif — Gornergrat, Switzerland.Taking a snack-with-a-view break on the terrace of the Sky Lounge — Gornergrat, Switzerland.Hot chocolate with a mound of whipped cream ... an appropriate drink for cold temps — Sky Lounge.

    Zermatt: Up to Gornergrat

    7月27日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    “Nowhere is there such a display of grandeur and beauty
    as can be seen from the Gornergrat summit.”
    ~ Mark Twain, 1878 ~

    Ready to continue on to the top station, we scanned out of the Rotenboden Station and hopped on the next train for the very short ride to Gornergrat … going up another 900 feet or so to 10,132 feet (3,089m) above sea level.

    Once we de-trained and took a couple of selfies, Mui opted to rest a bit while I walked over to the Golden Spot Photopoint. The terrace is so named not just for being the perfect spot from which to take souvenir photos with the Matterhorn, but also because this is where “… the golden locomotive 3003 sparkles elegantly and grabs everyone’s attention as soon as they enter Gornergrat station.” This is one of the three locomotives of the first generation of the railway; the other two, also painted gold, are exhibited elsewhere. Along the paved path to the viewing terrace, a series of panels inform visitors about the history and development of the Gornergrat Railway … considered “a pioneering achievement in the construction of the cog railway …”.

    Rejoining Mui, we walked up the path and past the rock cairns built by visitors. At the Gornergrat chapel, which is dedicated to St Bernhard von Aosta, we stopped for a quick peek. The chapel was constructed in 1950 … at the request of the bishop who used to read Sunday mass in the dining room of the Kulmhotel Gornergrat when it opened at the end of the 19th century.

    From the chapel, we continued on up to the Summit Cuisine and Shopping Center where one can find all things Matterhorn … from clocks and chocolates shaped like the iconic peak; to mini-Matterhorn figures placed inside bottles of alcohol a la ‘ship-in-a-bottle’; to anything else you can think of, including posters, calendars, key fobs, magnets, clothing, and tea towels.

    As it was past 2:00p, we decided that are grumbling tummies needed to be sated. We perused the menus, but didn’t much care for the restaurant options. Instead, we went to the Sky Lounge … with an al fresco setting on the terrace. We found some comfy seats to sit down, sip hot beverages, and share a slice of chocolate cake to tide us over until dinner … all with a view of the massive peaks of the Pennine Alps.

    Shortly after 3:00p, we hopped on the train down to Zermatt. We were on the wrong side of the train this time. No matter, we had taken our fill of photos already. Half an hour later, we were releasing our luggage from the lockers at the Zermatt Bahnhof.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    1Our first glimpse of the Matterhorn from the Gornergrat train — Zermatt, Switzerland.
    And again ... Matterhorn with Zermatt village ... from the Gornergrat train — Switzerland.Not the best selfie in the world ... but a keeper — from the train — Switzerland.Around every corner we get clear views of the Matterhorn and the peaks of the Pennine Alps.View of the peaks of the Pennine Alps from the Rotenboden train station — Switzerland.2The Matterhorn and Riffellsee reflection. We'll be heading down for better reflections.Grenzgletscher (Border Glacier) flows down the right side of Monte Rosa to join Gornergletscher.The combined Gornergletscher and Grenzgletscher fill the valley between the mountains.Patches of blue fill the sky and brighten the view of the Pennine Alps — Switzerland.The Matterhorn ... this time with some blue skies as a backdrop — Switzerland.2This reflection view on Riffellsee is why we came here — Switzerland.2With the Matterhorn peak at 14,682 feet, that paraglider is definitely flying high.The next photo identifies most of the peaks in this view — Switzerland.Screenshot from the PeakFinder app.Left to Right: The Monte Rosa Massif; Grenzgletscher; the Liskamm — SwitzerlandDetail screenshot of the peaks in the previous photo.One last shot of the Matterhorn from near the Rotenboden Station — Switzerland.2Had to 'steal-with-photo-credit' this Toblerone shot from the Gornergratbahn website.

    Zermatt: Matterhorn from Rotenboden

    7月27日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    Beware… lots of photos of the Matterhorn in this footprint … though I am giving you a break and not sharing too many from when the backdrop was overcast.

    Our plan for today was to wander around Zermatt after storing our luggage at the train station, have a late lunch, check-in at the apartment at 4:00p, and shop for a couple of self-catered meals. Tomorrow we would go up to Gornergrat and the Matterhorn.

    A check of the weather on the Swiss Meteo app, however, had us considering flipping our plans. Seeing the Matterhorn wide open on the Gornergrat webcam sealed the deal. We walked over to the Gornergratbahn, purchased our tickets, and got on the next train going up. Scoring starboard seats, we had great views of the iconic pyramid-shaped Matterhorn most of the way up, and even managed a selfie when the train stopped at one of the interim stations.

    Including the train station in Zermatt, there are seven stops on the Gornergratbahn. As long as you continue to travel in the same direction — always up or always down — you can get on and off at as many stations as you wish. We knew that there was the potential for reflection views of the Matterhorn if we got off at the Rotenboden Station (elevation 9,235 feet (2,815m) … one before the last station. So, that’s what we did.

    After stopping a few minutes for photos from near the station, we started our short hike down to Riffellsee … going through the Alpine Garden. The botanist who was checking the plants suggested that we take the slightly longer but less steep trail down to the lake … good recommendation since the pebbles and rocks underfoot were loose.

    Even from high on up, it was apparent that we were going to be rewarded with a reflection of the Matterhorn on the still waters of the lake. True, the backdrop was not the hoped-for clear blue sky. But there was not a ripple on the lake (except when some idiot threw in stones); the air was crystal clear; the Matterhorn was showing off its iconic shape … the other peaks were vying for our attention as well. We got beautiful reflection shots from several different vantage points.

    After about 50 minutes, we hiked half-way up the trail to check out the scenery in another direction … glaciers streaming down from between the peaks, several of them clearly in retreat. Grenzgletscher (Border Glacier) on the other hand, flowing around the right side of the Monte Rosa Massif, was clearly still feeding Gornergletscher, Switzerland’s second largest river of ice … even though the retreat of the latter has caused the connection of the two glaciers at the base of the massif to be replaced by a moraine.

     We spent about 20 minutes enjoying the scenery of the mountains and glaciers. We were so entranced by the view that we almost didn’t notice the changing sky behind us. Patches of blue were starting to make an appearance … the light was getting brighter … the sun was coming out.

    From our vantage point at the glacier overlook, we could not see the Matterhorn, but there was a good chance things were changing behind it, too. Walking around the side of an outcropping, we confirmed the change. Of course, we had to go back down to the Riffellsee for more reflection photos.

    The sky never cleared entirely, but we didn’t mind the ‘character clouds’ that actually made for more interesting photos IMHO. That said, we could have done without the one filmy cloud that stubbornly parked itself on the face of the Matterhorn.

    By the way, no Toblerone shot! We neglected to buy a chocolate bar to take with us when we impulsively changed our plans.

    ———————————————————————

    *** SHFC Reconciliation (PER PERSON): CHF 120 outlay … we added to our credit balance with the CHF 66.00 R/T Gornergratbahn ticker purchase. We are now ahead of the game by CHF 114.30/person.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Our first train ride today is the Lötschberg Tunnel car train ... from Kandersteg to Goppenstein.
    Unlike two days ago, there is no long queue of cars waiting to board the train — Kandersteg.We drive onto the train and off we go — Lötschberg Tunnel car train in Kandersteg, Switzerland.We enjoy lovely alpine views part of the way during our ride on the car train — Switzerland.Off the train, the next step today is to drive to Täsch for another train ride — Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Vineyards ... from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.Scenery from our drive to Täsch, Switzerland.End of the road ... need to take a train from here to go up to Zermatt — Täsch, Switzerland.

    OtR: Kandersteg to Täsch to Zermatt

    7月27日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Woke up to no rain today! Of course, the weather was clearing now that we were leaving Kandersteg!!!

    The dining room at the Belle Epoque Hotel Victoria opened @ 7:00a this morning. No hot food at that hour. OK by us. An earlier than planned breakfast meant that we were on the move by 8:15a … heading to the Lötschberg Tunnel car train even earlier than we had anticipated.

    Car trains are a convenient way of crossing Switzerland’s mountainous regions and avoid long drives on the curvy roads in the mountain passes. There are apparently five of these trains that traverse the Alps. The road here ends just beyond Kandersteg. To travel further south, one must take the train. Or drive all the way back to Interlaken and then around to the Furka Pass … a scenic drive, but making for a very long day. So, the car train it would be for us.

    When we arrived in Kandersteg on the 25th, we drove by an incredibly long queue of cars at a standstill … stretching quite a distance out of town. It was the line-up for the vehicles that were waiting to board the car train. When we went out later that day to check on the logistics for embarking the train, the line was still very long. That led us to pre-purchase our ticket online … good for any departure within a year. This would allow us to by-pass the line at the ticket kiosk and go through a different lane to queue-up for the train.

    Turns out that having advance tickets was unnecessary this morning. When we arrived at 8:27a, there was absolutely no vehicles in sight. Having our ticket in hand, however, we were able to use the self-service gate to check in and board the 8:36a train that was minutes away from departing. Ticket scanned, we simply drove down to the train, entered the lane indicated by the handler, and drove up a ramp and onto the train … continuing forward through several empty carriages until our forward progress was blocked by a parked vehicle. We then turned off the engine, rolled down the windows, and settled in for the 18-minute ride to Goppenstein at the other end.

    The ride was interesting. Part of it was in the open … with views; part of it went through the Lötschberg Tunnel, construction for which started in 1906. The tunnel has been in regular service since 1913. At the highest point of the 9-mile (14.6 km) track, we reached 4,070 ft (1,240 m) above sea level. Soon enough, we were de-training in Goppenstein.

    Our drive after de-training took us through a series of short tunnels that seemed like they were built primarily to protect vehicles from avalanches. It was a pleasant enough drive … partly cloudy skies with intermittent sunshine and blue skies … passing by and through many villages. A more industrial ambiance overall. There was nowhere to pullover to enjoy the scenery, so I had to make do with drive-by photography.

    Around 9:45a, we arrived in Täsch … where the road dead ends. Finding the Matterhorn Terminal was easy. Because we had reserved our parking space here in advance a few days ago, the scanner at the entrance read the license plate and the barrier opened automatically. As it turns out, we could have arrived sans reservation today. There were plenty of open spaces and we found one easily enough on level -3. Securing the car, we went up to level -1 to purchase our R/T tickets using our SHFC for the train that was about to leave. By 10:10 we were seated. By 10:16 the train was rolling. By 10:28, the 12-minute ride was over … the highlight being the glimpse we caught of the Matterhorn from our starboard side seats.

    ———————————————————————

    *** SHFC Reconciliation (PER PERSON): CHF 120 outlay … we added to our credit balance with the CHF 8.60 R/T Zermatt Shuttle ticket purchase. We are now ahead of the game by CHF 48.30/person.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    You can't see the rain in this photo, but you can see the low-lying clouds — Kandersteg, Switzerland
    Many more waterfalls today ... some a trickle; others being fed by the continuous rain — Kandersteg.Waterfall through the heavy downpour — Kandersteg, Switzerland.

    Kandersteg: Rainy Rest Day

    7月26日, スイス ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    “Rain, rain, go away
    Come again another day. …”

    So goes the nursery rhyme. I’ll add to it by asking the rain to preferably return after we leave Switzerland!

    Today was a day of downpours. When the wet stuff let up for a bit, it wasn’t for long. That pretty much tells today’s story.

    The weather never cleared for us to do the hike that had brought us here in the first place. No museums and such to visit in Kandersteg … or the immediate vicinity. We looked further afield to find somewhere to go, but every webcam we checked showed fog and rain. In the end, we declared it a day of rest. Mui napped most of the day away; I did some bookkeeping and other housekeeping chores.

    We went out briefly a couple of times. Once to buy some socks that are a better fit with the new hiking boots we bought for me yesterday. And once to get a bite for dinner. We wanted to return to Café Schweizerhof. As luck would have it, most of the tables were reserved for a special occasion. So, we ended up at the Ritter Restaurant at our hotel. The food wasn’t bad … Mui enjoyed the schnitzel he ordered; my rösti with raclette cheese was way too rich and I had to push the dish aside after eating only about a quarter of it.

    Back to the room for an early night. We hope to get an early start tomorrow … fingers once again crossed for improved weather.    もっと詳しく

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    Welcome committee — Kandersteg, Switzerland.
    Evangelical Reform Church — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Evangelical Reform Church — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Evangelical Reform Church — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Ceiling detail @ the Evangelical Reform Church — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Kander River Evangelical Reform Church — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Gardenscape from our wander — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Colorful blooms from a residential garden — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Gardenscape from our wander ... bunnies in the background — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Waterfall at the turnaround point of our wander — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Belle Epoque Hotel Victoria — Kandersteg, Switzerland.The original Ritter Hotel from 1789 — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Room 421 @ the Belle Epoque Hotel Victoria — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Panorama of the view from our room — Kandersteg, Switzerland.Consecrated in 1977, St Mary's Catholic Church is a recent addition to the village — Kandersteg.Charming village scenery with the Kander River flowing under a stone bridge — Kandersteg.The 'resident cat' at Café Schweizerhof has its own comfy chair — Kandersteg, Switzerland.A little bit of clearing and color at sunset ... a good omen for tomorrow? — Kandersteg, SwitzerlandThe photo that prompted us to add Kandersteg to our itinerary. Hope to see it tomorrow.

    Next Stop … Kandersteg

    7月25日, スイス ⋅ 🌧 57 °F

    Since we were hoping to do a hike in the Kandersteg area, we didn’t dally once we reached Stechelberg.

    Kandersteg is noted for its mountain scenery, and offers a number of hiking trails in the summer. It was a photograph of Oeschinensee that had us stealing a day from our planned stay in Beatenberg and another one from Zermatt to include the area in our plans.

    We arrived in Kandersteg around 12:30p … way too early to check into our room at the Belle Epoque Hotel Victoria & Apartments. We found a parking spot in front of the hotel, used our parking app to set our departure date for the 27th, and went inside to leave our bags with the concierge so we could go for a wander.

    Though the skies were overcast, there was no rain at that point. Mother Nature would be making up for that grace period later.

    First, we briefly peeked inside the Kandersteg Evangelical Reform Church … simply decorated but with a beautiful wood ceiling. Then we headed off to do a scenic walk along the Kander River … recommended by the desk clerk at the hotel. Perhaps we made a wrong turn, because our steps took us along a road lined with homes and ended at a gondola station. We debated going up the mountain, but the summit was cloaked in clouds. When it started to rain, that sealed the deal and we returned to the hotel, where our room was ready for check-in.

    The history of the hotel goes back to 1789 when “… for the solace and necessity of travelers and the sick’” a tavern was built in Kandersteg. Named the Ritter, it consisted of 12 chalets. In 1895, with the rise in tourism, the Victoria section of the hotel was added in the Edwardian and Victorian styles.

    As requested, we were given a room on the top floor — #421. The top floor for guests, that is. Turns out that they use the 5th floor for storage and as housing for the international students hired for the summer season. Mui had to caution them earlier tonight when the noise of running feet above us kept echoing in our room. No problems afterward.

    As for the room … both the bedroom and the bathroom are spacious, but they lack charm. The floor is a bit creaky, but not bothersome. The biggest issue is the incongruously modern ceiling lights that are not working and the two lamps by the bed are insufficient to light the room. The front desk staff was no help when we brought the problem to their attention. Luckily, the student (from Argentina) who is a member of the cleaning staff for our floor brought us a couple of floor lamps … he earned a special tip. Anyway, we are making do, but the room should have never been assigned to begin with.

    The light rain that had dogged our footsteps back to the hotel had turned into a serious downpour while we were settling in. By 3:15p, however, the rain was starting to show evidence of letting up, so we went out for a short wander. Then to Café Schweizerhof for an early dinner. The kitchen was closing at 4:00p … which the waitress explained is when the chef takes his rest before the dinner service starts @ 6:00p. The ‘chef-in-training’ provided tasty food, so no complaints.

    By the time we left the café, it was raining again … steady downpour. So, we returned to the room for an early night. With no comfortable seating in the room, Mui is having to make do with the bed. We moved the small table in the bathroom to the bedroom and I am using that as a desk to draft this post. Bedtime soon.

    Tomorrow’s plan calls for us to take the cable car to Oeschinensee for a hike. Fingers crossed the weather will cooperate.    もっと詳しく

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    Mürren is the first station on the 3-stage cable car system between Stechelberg and Schilthorn.
    2Heading up from Mürren to Birg on the cable car — Switzerland.Brilliant skies and sunshine as we approach Birg the intermediate station on the way to Schilthorn.Scenery from the cable car on the way to the Birg Station — Switzerland.Piz Gloria from the cable car as we continue to the Birg Station — Switzerland.Promoting Spy World — Birg Station, Switzerland.Spectacular view as we continue up to Schilthorn on the cable car — Switzerland.Looking down from the cable car on the way up to Schilthorn — Switzerland.Our 'haloed' cable car reflection on the way up to Schilthorn — Switzerland.Jungfrau ... on the way up to Schilthorn — Switzerland.On final approach to the summit of Schilthorn — Switzerland.Panorama of the view from the Sky Terrace — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.From the terrace — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.Better take a selfie before the view closes up — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.And then a white wall of clouds and nothing more — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.Panorama of the Sky View Terrace ... even that patch of blue disappears — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.With London way out there somewhere ... so the sign on the ceiling says — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.The buffet stations stay stationary as the tables revolve 360 degrees — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.Champagne anyone? — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.The Golden Lattice from the movie now used to display rocks from around Switzerland — Piz Gloria.More of the rocks on display in the golden lattice — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.This is the view we would have seen had the weather gods cooperated — Piz Gloria, Schilthorn.On the way down from Mürren to Stechelberg — SwitzerlandHope for blue skies in Mürren when I stop to photograph Mürrenbachfall — Stechelberg, Switzerland.

    Mürren: Breakfast in the Clouds

    7月25日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

    The early bird catches the worm!

    In this case, the early birds at least got a brief glimpse of sunshine and views on the way up to Schilthorn … and even a bit from the terrace.

    Schilthorn, at 9,744 feet (2,970m), is one of the ‘shorter’ peaks in the Bernese Alps. Yet, it is quite well known … for two things mostly. The instantly-recognizable building at the summit is one of them. Its connection to “Bond, James Bond” is another … it was here that some of the scenes in the movie “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” were filmed, starring George Lazenby as the world famous spy.

    Our breakfast-included-reservation at Hotel Alpenruh came with the option of enjoying one of our morning meals at Piz Gloria, the revolving restaurant at the summit of Schilthorn. We had read that the food was so-so. Nonetheless, we wanted to see the view anyway, we decided to take the hotel up on the offer. Since we’d be departing Mürren today, we requested a reservation for 9:00a. We figured the 8:10a cable car from Mürren to Schilthorn would take us up some 4,300 feet (1,310m) and put us at the top around 8:30a … giving us ½-hour to wander around to enjoy the views before breakfast.

    The tickets that were included with our hotel package covered the roundtrip ride up to Schilthorn via Birg, so we did not have to purchase tickets. Alas, there was nothing but thick fog/low-lying clouds ahead of us as the cable car left Mürren. Sigh!

    Just as we were resigning ourselves to another day of having the summits cloaked by clouds, our luck changed. In an instant, the clouds started to part. High up in the distance the sky was blue and there was sunshine! The jagged peaks of the Alps became visible … as did Piz Gloria at the tippy top of Schilthorn. The question now … would these conditions last?

    At the Birg station (elevation 8,790 feet [2,677m]), we hotfooted it to the cable car that goes up to Schilthorn. With no one else in line, and the next cable car not expected for another 15-20 minutes, the operator left Birg early, giving us a headstart. The scenery was spectacular … the green vegetation covering some of the mountain landscape looked like velvet … the white clouds were brilliant … the black rocks of the Alps stood in stark contrast against the blue sky. Below us, we passed over a couple of lakes and patches of snow, and even saw a ‘haloed’ reflection of our cable car. It was quite surreal.

    When we reached the Schilthorn Station, we quickly got our bearings and headed up to the Skyline View Platform on floor 0 … oddly the arrival level at the station is marked -3. We negotiated a few detours along the way due to ongoing construction to upgrade the cable car system and the facilities and found the right door to get us out onto the terrace, part of which was also closed due to construction.

    It didn’t take us long to figure out that the clouds were moving back in. We walked around the terrace, photographing the view before it was veiled completely. Five minutes later we were surrounded by clouds in every direction. The “Swiss Skyline” — Eiger, Mönch, and Jungfrau — and the 200 other peaks of the Bernese and Valais Alps were all gone. The view was still in hiding when we left some two hours later. Time for breakfast.

    Piz Gloria takes about 45 minutes to revolve 360° on its axis; thus giving everyone a chance to see the views from every direction … no need to fight over tables. In the 007 movie, the building served as the infamous villain Blofeld’s hideout and was named Piz Gloria. After the filming was completed, the restaurant simply retained the name. Why not? The movie was a free promotion of the locale after all. It claims to be the first revolving restaurant of its kind, but I read that Eye of the Needle in Seattle actually predates it by seven years or so.

    At 9:00a, there were very few others having breakfast/brunch. We presented our voucher and were escorted to reserved seats by the window … with a view of … nothing but clouds. So our “breakfast with a view” was actually “breakfast in the clouds.” Not even a break in the white wall as the restaurant took us around to different views. Oh well … at least we got a peak at the view first thing in the morning. I checked the webcam a few times later in the day and the cloud-cover seemed to be constant.

    Breakfast was fine … buffet style, and we helped ourselves to everything, including champagne. It was weird to have a buffet station next to us one moment, only for it to be replaced by another as the restaurant floor with the tables revolved continuously. As it did so, signs attached to the roof pointed the direction of major cities and distances.

    There are a number of attractions at Schilthorn … including the Walk of Fame, described as “… where cast and crew members of “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” leave their traces at the legendary Bond film location.” We skipped this one, and the Spy World and Cinema … the latter two were still closed. We would have walked out to the Piz Gloria View observation deck on the ridge, but … well, you know, those pesky clouds were hiding even the restaurant from view. Instead, we decided to head back down. We had a drive ahead of us and different views to enjoy … weather willing.

    When we got to the Schilthorn cable car station, we hopped on for an immediate ride. There would have been a short wait at Birg, but the operator allowed us onto the next car going down with a staff member … sans driver, operated remotely. Getting off in Mürren, we went to hotel, collected our bags, and completed our check out. Then we took the cable car down to Stechelberg to collect our car.    もっと詳しく

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    We are welcomed back from Allmendhubel by a pair of cute frogs — Mürren, Switzerland.
    Colorful flowers in a garden near where we come back from our hike — Mürren, Switzerland.A modern chalet with typical Swiss bells — Mürren, Switzerland.Lunch @ Alti Mezg — Mürren, Switzerland.Lunch at Alti Mezg — Mürren, Switzerland.Cheese fondue for lunch at Alti Mezg — Mürren, Switzerland.So far, the only mountain goats we've seen are sculptures of one kind or another — Mürren.Candlelight Dinner with champagne @ Hotel Alpenruh — Mürren, Switzerland.Candlelight Dinner with champagne @ Hotel Alpenruh — Mürren, Switzerland.Delicious food for our Candlelight Dinner @ Hotel Alpenruh — Mürren, Switzerland.

    Mürren: Day 2 … Lunch and Dinner

    7月24日, スイス ⋅ 🌧 50 °F

    It was almost 1:00p when we completed our Allmendhubel hike. Our route had brought us back to the Hotel Alpenhus. Perfect. We dropped off our bags and headed out for a light lunch.

    This time we went to Alti Mezg … an available table on the sidewalk a bonus for our fondue lunch. Hot tea was our beverage of choice … appreciated all the more towards the end of our meal when the temperature started dropping quite quickly. Following a short post-lunch stroll in the village, we returned to rest up. I intended to sit on the balcony while Mui napped, but even layered up it was too chilly. Instead, I fiddled with photos and did a little journaling at the desk in the room.

    Around 6:30p, we went to the dining room at our hotel for the Candlelight Dinner included in our package. Our meal started with a house-marinated salmon appetizer served with a dill sauce, followed by a creamy tomato soup. Next was a lemon sorbet palate cleanser served in a champagne flute. The main course was a tenderloin with peppercorn sauce and a side of potatoes au gratin and sautéed vegetables. We wrapped with a local dessert … Alpenruh Cream Slice … custard between two mille-feuille shells. We were pleasantly stuffed by the time we left the table.

    We will be leaving Mürren tomorrow. But before we do so, we have one more thing we want to do. We are praying that despite what the forecast calls for, we will have at least some sunshine and blue skies.    もっと詳しく

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    By 8:00a, the white wall of clouds began clearing, allowing us to see the village — Mürren.
    We're going to head up to Allmendhubel by funicular — Mürren, Switzerland.Crossing paths with the funicular that is heading down — Mürren, Switzerland.1View of Mürren from the funicular to Allmendhubel — Switzerland.View of the area around the funicular station from the sundeck — Allmendhubel, Switzerland.Selfie with the ubiquitous big letters — Allmendhubel, Switzerland.Edelweiss ... on the flower trail — Allmendhubel, Switzerland.3Suddenly we find ourselves in the midst of a herd of cows.2Mui makes a new friend — Allmendhubel, Switzerland.A selfie op that we can't pass up — Allmendhubel, Switzerland.Heading down to Mürren from Allmendhubel — Switzerland.Heading down to Mürren from Allmendhubel — Switzerland.Heading down to Mürren from Allmendhubel — Switzerland.Fireweed add a pop of color to the scenery ... on the way down to Mürren from Allmendhubel.Slug, or land slug, is a common name for any apparently shell-less terrestrial gastropod mollusc.Heading down to Mürren from Allmendhubel — Switzerland.Heading down to Mürren from Allmendhubel — Switzerland.2Mürrenbach ... a bach is a body of water that has a current; it is smaller than a river.Mürrenbach ... heading down to Mürren from Allmendhubel — Switzerland.Mürrenbach ... where it cascades down the mountain, it forms Mürrenbachfall.If the clouds had lifted, this would have been our view from Allmendhubel.

    Mürren: Day 2 … Allmendhubel Hike

    7月24日, スイス ⋅ 🌧 48 °F

    Completely socked in!

    There was nothing but a wall of white clouds outside our window when I woke up at 7:30a. Thirty minutes later, the clouds were on the move. The town came into view very quickly. The mountains took their own sweet time … never clearing fully unfortunately. Off to the right, the cable car was going up and down … no passengers. There was a big box attached to the bottom that had not been there yesterday. I’m guessing daily supplies are transported in this manner during the early runs of the day.

    After breakfast, we geared up for a hike. There are a number of them that one can do from Mürren. The webcams showed the views were similarly socked-in at all of the trails. So, we decided to head up to Allmendhubel, described as “Mürren’s own mountain.” The plan was to take the funicular up ~900 feet (275m) to the station at 6,257 feet (1,907m). We’d decide what to do once we got up there.

    Decision made, we walked to the station near the village center. The upper reaches of the mountain were hidden by the fog … perhaps low-lying clouds. Unsure whether we would be hiking or taking the funicular down, we bought one-way tickets with our SFHC. Minutes later we were on the way up, the track partially going through a tunnel. We got some nice views of Mürren before we entered the tunnel … glad for at least that much.

    Considering we couldn’t see much beyond the tunnel entrance from Mürren, it came as no surprise that the scenery when we arrived at Allmendhubel was veiled by the mist. At least the immediate vicinity was clear, so we did have some ‘scenery’ to entertain us. We picked up some hot beverages at the café as the damp weather added to the chill factor and we needed a warm-up. We were hoping to drink our beverages on the sundeck, but the benches were all as damp as the air. At least it wasn’t raining. We ended up sipping our drinks while we wandered around, watching the antics of the families in the kids area.

    After the ubiquitous ‘big letters’ selfie, we headed to the Flower Trail that loops around a garden where one can not only see plants from Alpine meadows and pastures, but also examples of mountain plants from Africa and Asia, and more. Frankly, there wasn’t much to see, but we did get to see some Edelweiss, so we called our time in the garden a win.

    One of the highlights of our time at the garden was a small herd of cows. We were studying some purple bell flowers when we heard the faint sound of bells. We looked around but didn’t see any cows, so we thought that perhaps they were wind chimes. Suddenly, as we were walking towards the sound of the bells — which was growing progressively stronger — the cows appeared out of the mist. The herd continued past us in the direction from which we had come … stopping to graze frequently. We continued in the direction from which the herd had come … dodging fresh cow patties!

    With no sign that the weather was going to clear up for us to enjoy the views, we looked at hiking options. No sense going up … the low-lying clouds would hide even more of the view. So, we decided to hike down. We’d been told that the North Face Trail would eventually get us to Mürren — a little over 3.5 miles (6 km). Or, we could take a shortcut. I don’t know if we followed the shorter trail exactly, but our route took us through Mirrenberg, and then across the Mürrenbach, which continues down the mountain to form Mürrenbachfall. The trail was mostly dirt, though the section we followed through Mirrenberg was a paved road.

    I have no idea what distance we covered, but I do know that we took nearly two hours with stops for photos along the way.

    Oh, by the way, the clouds never did lift, so we never did get to see the mountains from high on up.

    ———————————————-

    *** SHFC Reconciliation (PER PERSON): CHF 120 outlay … with today’s purchase of a CHF $3.50 funicular ticket to Allmendhubel, we are now ahead of the game by CHF 43.20 pp.    もっと詳しく

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    2With the day-trippers gone, the streets are eerily quiet — Mürren, Switzerland.
    From our stroll around the village — Mürren, Switzerland.From our stroll around the village — Mürren, Switzerland.From our stroll around the village — Mürren, Switzerland.Standing guard at the fountain — Mürren, Switzerland.1From our stroll around the village — Mürren, Switzerland.From our stroll around the village — Mürren, Switzerland.The fire station mascot is keeping an eye on things from high up — Mürren, Switzerland.Marienkappelle ... the Roman Catholic Church — Mürren, Switzerland.Marienkappelle ... the Roman Catholic Church — Mürren, Switzerland.Marienkappelle ... the Roman Catholic Church — Mürren, Switzerland.Ceiling of the Marienkappelle ... the Roman Catholic Church — Mürren, Switzerland.1Kitty cat roaming the streets — Mürren, Switzerland.From our stroll around the village — Mürren, Switzerland.From our stroll around the village — Mürren, Switzerland.Kicking off the Folklore Night festivities with music — Mürren, Switzerland.From our stroll around the village — Mürren, Switzerland.From our stroll around the village — Mürren, Switzerland.Cute napkin where we had dinner at the Edelweiss Hotel restaurant — Mürren, Switzerland.

    Mürren: Exploring Crowd-Free

    7月23日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    By 4:30p, we were back in our room at the Hotel Alpenruh. We sat on the balcony to relax for a bit and rest our weary feet. The peaks were showing evidence of clearing, however, that didn’t last long. The sky had been getting progressively more overcast … the cloud deck getting lower. Soon enough the mountains were back in hiding.

    We left the hotel around 6:00p to get some dinner and go for a wander. After the hub-bub earlier in the day, the streets were eerily quiet; the atmosphere peaceful. The day-trippers were gone. The village now belonged to the residents and those of us who were booked into accommodations. The overlook that affords some of the best views was no longer a beehive of selfie-takers who posed interminably until they got the perfect shot for their social media pages. Time to take a selfie or two of our own. Except that the light was really blah … we’ll try again tomorrow, but at least we have the photos from when we braved the crowds at lunch time.

    As we strolled along the main street, we perused menus. Eventually, we settled on the restaurant at the Hotel Edelweiss … partially because of the terrace with its view of the mountains. We were about to be seated when it started raining. So, we ended up dining indoors instead … which was perhaps a good thing as the temperature had dropped and it was turning chilly. Good food … schnitzel and a salad for Mui; rösti with pears and raclette cheese for me … good, but oh so rich.

    Our after-dinner stroll took us off the main street. Hardly anyone was out and about. We passed residential homes and boutique hotels; stopped to enjoy window-boxes overflowing with flowers; and checked out the carved statues we came across. When we found the door of the Marienkappelle Catholic Church open, we went inside for a quick peek. The church was built between 1892-1893 as a post and beam structure, with neo-Gothic style windows. It is apparently one of the first Roman Catholic churches in the Bernese Oberland. The stained glass windows standing out in the otherwise simply decorated church.

    As we were meandering, we heard the distant notes of music. It sounded like it was coming from a marching band. Walking towards the music, we found the band walking in the direction of the Alpines Sportzentrum. Turns out that tonight was folklore evening. A cavernous hall was filled with picnic tables; at the stalls along one wall food was being prepared. Too bad we didn’t know about this earlier. Too full from dinner, we continued our stroll … this time towards the hotel for a good night’s rest.    もっと詳しく

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  • CH & IT Roadtrip
    Alpine farm on the way from Mürren to Gimmelwald, Switzerland.
    A cute calf checking us out as we check it out ... on the way to Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Pop of yellow adds charm to the floral display ... on the way to Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Interesting snow slide barriers ... on the way to Gimmelwald, Switzerland.At this hour, the cable cars that are going up are mostly empty ... on the way to Gimmelwald.Welcome to Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Another cable car ... but this one is heading somewhere else other than Mürren.Too bad the mountain tops are cloaked — Gimmelwald, Switzerland.A few more steps and now we can see the main village — Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Nice spot to take a load off and enjoy the views — Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Panorama of the scenery and the village — Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Charming wood pile — Gimmelwald, Switzerland.This goat's curiosity was strong enough for it to pause grazing to check us out — Gimmelwald.Gimmelwald, Switzerland.On the wall of a hut in Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Even the water trough is decorated with flowers — Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Old boots recycled as flower pots — Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Gimmelwald, Switzerland.Some of the colorful blooms from our hike to Gimmelwald, Switzerland.

    Mürren: Hiking Down to Gimmelwald

    7月23日, スイス ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    “If Heaven isn’t what it’s cracked up to be, send me back to Gimmelwald.”

    I read this statement on grindelwald.com, a website authored by an aficionado of this small, village in the Alps. The website continued, “… No cars, no TV, no newspapers, not even a food store, but many cows and plenty of cheese.” Sounded idyllic to us. When we found the village on the map, and realized that it was down the road, so to speak, from Mürren, we added it to our plans.

    Situated at an elevation of 4,472 feet (1,363 m), Gimmelwald is essentially between Stechelberg in the Lauterbrunnen Valley and Mürren, about 1,000 feet further up the mountain. Accessible only on foot or by cable car, the name of this unspoiled village was first mentioned in 1346. Not sure what the population was back then, but today it is around 100.

    We’d been told that there was a path we could hike down. Turns out that it was the road that connects Gimmelwald with Mürren. There weren’t many vehicles with which to contend, so traffic wasn’t an issue. We encountered other hikers along the way … but few and far between. Overall, an easy hike that we found to be quite peaceful. Cows and goats in farmyards … colorful flowers along the side of the road and decorating huts and houses … cable cars passing overhead … and of course, expansive Alpine views that accompanied every step of our hike.

    When we reached the village, there was nary a person around. Even the shop was unattended … the shopkeeper depending on the honesty of the shoppers. We decided to grab a drink … maybe a snack. Of the two options available to us, we settled on the Biergarten at Pension Gimmelwald. Aha … here’s where everyone was. Also at the Mountain Hostel, around the corner. Mostly hikers by the look of their gear.

    Drinks with a view and then it was time to head back to Mürren to explore it a bit more in depth. Gimmelwald is a stop on the Stechelberg-Mürren line, so it was just a matter of buying two one-way tickets and take the easy way up.

    *** SHFC Reconciliation (PER PERSON): CHF 120 outlay … with the card paid off, the Gimmelwald-Mürren cable car ticket added CHF $4.40 to our credit balance. We have now saved CHF 39.70 on public transport in Switzerland.    もっと詳しく

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