• Cruising the Arafura Sea

    29. desember 2023, Arafura Sea ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    Day 2 of 3 days at sea.

    Overnight, we turned west around the Cape York Peninsula and are now cruising along the Top End of Australia.

    The Arafura Sea is treating us well … flat calm seas. Sunshine and a less-humid 86F for a high. A beautiful day to be at sea. Definitely a relaxing one.

    When we embarked Regatta in Sydney, Ben, who mans the Specialty Dining Reservations Desk, managed to get our reservations sorted out for our days at sea on this segment. Tonight, we once again dined at Toscana.

    We don’t always go to the shows in the Regatta Lounge. Tonight, we made an exception and went to see Danny Elliott, billed as Australia’s premier multi-instrumentalist and vocal entertainer. His high-energy show did not disappoint. The guy’s reputation is well earned.
    Les mer

  • Itinerary Change #4: No Cooktown For Us!

    28. desember 2023, Coral Sea ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Day 1 of 3 days at sea.

    Instead of visiting Cooktown on the Cape York Peninsula of Far North Queensland today, we are having a sea day … cruising the Coral Sea … weaving in and out of the Great Barrier Reef as we make on our way to Darwin.

    We are 0 for 2 where Cooktown is concerned.

    The first time Cooktown was canceled was on our 2017 world cruise. On that occasion, the culprit was the weather. Insignia got as far as lowering its tenders to transport pier-side paraphernalia to prepare for the arrival of passengers. The tenders turned back before they ever got ashore. The seas were just too rough; the rain was coming down in sheets.

    The weather is the culprit for this cancelation as well. Not the weather at present however, as we are having a sunny day today … with calm seas and light winds. Rather, the weather in question this time is ex Cyclone Jasper.

    The first named storm of the 2023-2024 Cyclone Season for Australia, Jasper formed on 2 December, became a Category 4 severe tropical cyclone at its peak on 8 December, and finally dissipated on 18 December. Long-lived definitely, it brought disastrous, drenching rain … dropping some 88.5+ inches in places … with sustained winds in the range of 120-140 mph.

    Having watched the news coverage of the storm while we were in Sydney, we were pleasantly surprised that we were able to dock in Cairns yesterday. We kept our fingers crossed for Cooktown. But when we found the cancelation letter from GM Dimitris in the cabin upon departure from Townsville on the 26th, we were not surprised.

    Last night, Captain Giulio further explained the reasoning for the cancelation. The Australian Government has designated the Far North QLD as a natural disaster area. The military has been activated to help with the clean-up. Communities remain cut off. And contaminated water carries bacteria that can lead to some serious illness. IMHO … all good reasons for us to not venture into the area.

    Our thoughts are with all the people affected by the disaster. Hopefully the area will have recovered by the time we drive back up this way on our overland. Perhaps third time will be the charm for Cooktown.
    Les mer

  • Cairns, QLD

    27. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 86 °F

    While there are other towns and cities from which one can get out to the Great Barrier Reef (GBR), Cairns is generally accepted as “the place” to do so. In fact, the city’s economy is heavily dependent on GBR-based activities.

    When Insignia stopped here in 2017, we flew out to the GBR in a helicopter, landed on a pontoon, and after the snorkeling activities were completed, we returned to Cairns by boat. This gave me a chance to see the reef from the air since I am not a snorkeler. Mui enjoyed his time in the water.

    Today, he snorkeled the GBR again. This time on a ship’s tour that went out to the Marine World Pontoon. Two hours to get out there … four hours at the pontoon where he spent much of his time in the water … two hours to get back. He said that the coral was hit and miss … 45% living. Colorful fish were plentiful. No stingers to worry about. No images from his experience, I’m afraid, since he can’t process his GoPro footage until we get home.

    (Link to our photo gallery from 2017 if you wish to see photos of the GBR from the air … just scroll past all the animal/bird photos from the Dome in Cairns … now closed — https://eenusa.smugmug.com/RTW-2017/Voyage/Cair….)

    My plan, while Mui was out on the GBR, was to take the Kuranda Rail up into the rainforest. A solo outing that I was looking forward to. Alas, Tropical Cyclone Jasper, which hit northern Queensland with all its ferocity earlier in December, put paid to those plans. A few days ago, I received notification that due to storm damage to the range, the train service was canceled.

    So, I went for a wander around Cairns instead.

    To get some respite from the humid heat, my meanderings were centered around indoor venues … with good A/C. The Art Gallery of Cairns and the Courthouse Art Gallery are both small venues and didn’t take up too much of my time. The Cairns Gallery, unfortunately, was closed.

    Next, I headed to the Cairns Aquarium where I saw the denizens of the oceans, reefs, and rivers. I guess you could say that I went snorkeling, too … I just didn’t get wet!
    Les mer

  • Townsville, QLD

    26. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    New-to-Us Port #2.

    Located on the north eastern shore of Queensland, Townsville is the gateway to the central portion of the Great Barrier Reef.

    Magnetic Island, a popular place to go snorkeling, is just a short ferry ride away. But we plan to do that when we drive up north along the shore later during our Australian adventure. So, today we hopped on the courtesy shuttle from the cruise terminal to the CBD to check out the city.

    Our plan was to stroll The Strand, a promenade fronting a tropical beach, and then go to the Reef HQ, an aquarium filled with flora and fauna native to the Great Barrier Reef. No can do on the latter … it’s closed for Boxing Day. As a matter of fact, the entire city had a deserted vibe. The only places where we saw people in large numbers were at the water playgrounds on The Strand.

    As hot as today was — 97F at one point before noon — one would expect the beach to be packed. Nope. This is stinger season … and the stingers in Australia can be downright deadly. For that same reason, Mui stayed away from the beach as well.

    Our 1.5-mile stroll took us to the gates of the Jezzine Barracks. But we made it no further. The sun was blazing hot. There was no breeze to provide relief away from the shoreline. Nor any shade. Deciding that the barracks would just have to go on the “later” list, we looked around for a place to grab some food … preferably somewhere with A/C. No luck. So, we ordered up an Uber to return us to the CBD.

    Thanks to our Uber driver, we found the only restaurant that seemed to be open … The Courtyard on City Lane. On a non-holiday weekday, the place I am sure would be hopping. Not today. Except for a family of four, we were the only ones there. No matter … the beer was ice cold; the cheeseburger spring rolls were piping hot, and both the burger and the pork pibil tacos were tasty.

    After lunch, we walked the short distance to the shuttle stop and managed to snag a couple of the last few seats remaining. The A/C upon entering the cruise terminal was like manna from heaven … a cold shower once back in the cabin was even better.
    Les mer

  • Cruising the Coral Sea

    25. desember 2023, Great Barrier Reef ⋅ ⛅ 82 °F

    Wishing all who celebrate a very Merry Christmas!

    For us, it was a quiet day at sea. Did nothing to break our sea day routine … except to have dinner at the Polo Grill tonight.

    So, this is a few words and one photo post … just to get a footprint on the map for today.Les mer

  • Mooloolaba, QLD

    24. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ 🌧 77 °F

    New-to-Us Port #1.

    With a mere 76 NM to go overnight from Brisbane, Regatta arrived at its anchorage for the tender port of Mooloolaba at 7:00a. Too early to go anywhere. So, we took our time over breakfast … on the outside deck at the Terrace Café.

    Our day ashore started with sunshine and rough seas.

    Our day ashore ended with a rain storm and rough seas.

    The tender ride in either direction was a bumpy one. We were, in fact, surprised that we were even tendering ashore in these conditions. Turns out, as I later heard, at some point after we left, tendering was halted and a number of passengers were unable to go ashore at all.

    For us, our time ashore at the beach town of Mooloolaba involved a long walk along the esplanade. We had gone ashore prepared to spend time at the beach so Mui could go for a swim. It took just one look at the surf to change those plans. No matter. Our stroll followed a scenic path, and with the breeze moderating the temperature, it was a pleasant way to enjoy the town.

    Eventually, retracing our path back into town, we went to The Wharf — the area near the tender pier — to have lunch at See … a seafood restaurant recommended to us by one of the locals. She did not steer us wrong. Mandala Pinot Noir … served chilled; Parmesan loaf; coconut prawns for me and barramundi for Mui. It was all delicious.

    That we got to enjoy our meal on the restaurant’s deck … without getting wet when the storm moved in with heavy rain and strong winds … well, that was a bonus. Even better, the intense storm was over by the time we were ready to walk to the tender pier for the wild ride back to Regatta.

    The ship was an hour late leaving its anchorage. We didn’t really mind as we were still managing a strong shoreside cell signal … thanks to the Telstra eSims we purchased in Sydney when we first arrived in Oz Land. We used it to call family … in my case to wish my mom and sister, both of who are Christmas Eve babies, happy birthday and merry Christmas.

    The show tonight was, as one might expect, Christmas themed … “‘Twas the Night Before Christmas.” Bryn, our cruise director [CD], started things off with a reading of the story by that title … adapted to the Regatta. There were Christmas carols and dances by the cast members, and the guest entertainers and the quartet participated as well. Very well done.

    Tomorrow we get to relax at sea while Regatta continues to chip away at the 634 nautical miles between Mooloolaba and our next port of call.
    Les mer

  • Brisbane: Roma Street Parkland

    23. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Our destination after walking through the Brisbane CBD was the 11-hectare park known as the Roma Street Parkland. I mentioned it in the meanderings post, but felt that our delight in the park deserved its own footprint.

    Located in an area that, for thousands of years, was used by Aboriginal people for meetings and ceremonies, today it offers locals and visitors alike a different kind of meeting space. It was developed in 1995 on land that in the 19th and 20th centuries was used as a railway goods yard.

    In addition to extensive pathways and boardwalks that twist and turn, and go up and down, there are recreational areas, such as a children’s play area and an open air theater. Of course, the primary focus is the colorful flora in well-tended beds.

    The highlight, for us, was the Spectacle Garden in which, a nearby sign explained, that over 16,000 flowers are planted each year. Scampering around the grounds were Australian brushturkeys and water dragons … giving us something other than plants on which to focus our attention on occasion.

    A riot of color in the true sense of the word.
    Les mer

  • Brisbane, QLD: Meanderings

    23. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    A day of cruising the Coral Sea yesterday brought us from New South Wales to Queensland … specifically, to the state capital … Brisbane.

    When we called on Brisbane on our 2017 world cruise, Insignia sailed up the Brisbane River to dock much closer to the city than Regatta did today at the Brisbane Cruise Terminal in Pinkemba … 12 miles from the CBD [central business district]. The good news? There was a complimentary shuttle, running every 30 minutes, to take independents like us to ANZAC Square for our Brisbane meanderings.

    In 2017, we spent our day in Brisbane at the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. This time, the plan was to explore the city itself. Turns out that today being Saturday — and Christmas Eve to boot — many places were closed. In fact, the entire CBD had a deserted vibe. No worries. We will be returning to Brisbane during the overland portion of our itinerary. We will visit then what we missed today.

    Our go-with-the-flow stroll first took us to City Hall where our hopes for checking out the city views from the tower observation terrace were dashed … no reservations available for the elevator. So, we continued onto the Roma Street Parkland … a highlight of today that I’ll post about in the next footprint.

    A mid-day lunch break at the historic Shingle Inn Café — re-created at City Hall — gave us a respite from the humid heat. Tasty food to sate our tummies did not go amiss, of course. And then it was onto the Birrunga Gallery to see some Aboriginal art … sorry, closed. Instead, we headed to the Anglican Cathedral of St John, where Mui had read that there are beautiful stained glass windows … it did not disappoint.

    By mid-afternoon, the heat was getting to be uncomfortable. When our plans to peek into the exhibit gallery at ANZAC Square fell through (you guessed it … closed), we opted to hop on the next shuttle back to the ship. Cooling breezes wafting over the Deck 5 Promenade made for a comfy spot to do a bit of reading and writing.

    Tonight we were hosted for dinner in Toscana by GM Dimitris. Our table mates were a couple from Austria, and a couple from Hawaii who, as it turns out, was on this year’s world cruise with us. A lovely way to wrap up our day in Brisbane.
    Les mer

  • Cruising the Coral Sea

    22. desember 2023, Tasman Sea ⋅ 🌬 73 °F

    Quiet day at sea. A bit windy … with 10-foot swells. But we don’t feel the movement much … especially in our stateroom which is low (deck 4) and midship.

    Tonight was the Captain’s Welcome Celebration party … typical format — receiving line headed by Captain Giulio and General Manager [GM] Dimitris; introduction of senior officers; toast to smooth sailing; a song or two and dancing.

    Drinks on the Captain tonight until 8:00p … all around the ship.

    We’ve already come across several crew and staff familiar from our world cruise on Insignia earlier this year … including Sasa, who has since been promoted from Restaurant Manager to Food & Beverage Director.

    We wrapped up our day with dinner in Toscana … where we were served by Charmaine, whom we first met on Insignia. It’s nice to see faces break out in smiles when we encounter crew who know us from previous cruises.
    Les mer

  • Bye Bye Sydney … For Now

    21. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ 🌬 70 °F

    With the rain drying up, the weather gave us a break to enjoy sail away from WBCT. We were glad to have our rain jackets with us regardless as there was a fair bit of wind that added a considerable chill factor.

    Shortly after 6:00p, Regatta pulled away from its berth, backed into a side channel to turn itself around, and pointed its bow towards the Sydney Harbour Bridge … then out between The Heads to the Tasman Sea.

    No sooner were we in open waters that the white caps made it clear that we would be rockin’ and rollin’ our way north tonight.

    A quiet evening, with a late-ish dinner in the GDR wrapped up our embarkation day.
    Les mer

  • Embarked Regatta @ WBCT

    21. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ 🌬 68 °F

    20-minute ride to WBCT [White Bay Cruise Terminal] … drop off checked bags for delivery to the cabin … short wait for the check-in stalls to open.

    By 11:15a, we were onboard Regatta. A quick stop in the Grand Dining Room [GDR] to check-in at our muster station … no formal mustering anymore; everything is done by video and a scan of ship’s cards to confirm you know where your muster station is located.

    Regatta is a twin of Insignia, on which we spent over 200 days this year. Thus, familiar with the layout and where everything is, we didn’t need to wander around to get our bearings. Just a few stops to photograph the holiday cheer around the ship and then up to the Terrace Café for lunch. With very few people onboard at that time, the venue was unusually quiet. That would be changing by the time we left to while away time at the Horizons Lounge on Deck 10 forward.

    On this cruise, we are in an oceanview cabin. What that means is that our stateroom would not be ready until 3:00p or thereabouts. No worries. I used the time to upload a couple of footprints. Mui read for a bit. We also set up our ship wi-fi accounts … the plural is not a typo … every stateroom gets two logins now … regardless of whether booked under the Simply More promotion.

    When the announcement came that all stateroom categories were now ready, we headed to 4052 to get ourselves settled in for the next month … plus a few days. Our luggage had been delivered, so unpacking and storing our belongings didn’t have to wait until later in the afternoon.

    Now to go up to Deck 10 and enjoy the sail away from Sydney.

    The good news … the on again, off again drizzle is finally history.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: Rainy Day Art Wrap-Up

    20. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    It rained all day. In other words, a perfect day to spend indoors at the Art Gallery of NSW.

    The museum is billed as one of the country’s flagship art museums. When it was first established in 1871 it had neither a collection nor a building. Those came later. Over the following 150 years, the museum not only changed names, but locations as well. One thing that didn’t change was the role it continues to play in the cultural life of NSW as well as Australia.

    As a public museum, there is no admission charged … except for special exhibits, like the current one … featuring Kandinsky’s work. We opted to skip it as there was more than enough to see in the free galleries.

    In fact, a little after noon, we had to take a break for lunch before continuing with the remaining galleries. The first restaurant we tried at the museum wasn’t even seating anyone without reservations. That’s how popular it is. So, we went to the Gallery Café instead. The place was packed, but we were seated after a 5-minute wait. A hearty soup seemed like the perfect choice on a rainy day … and it was. Mui enjoyed his green papaya salad, a specialty of the chef.

    Then back to exploring the museum. Just when we’d think, “OK, we’ve visited all the galleries,” rounding a corner, or coming up to what looked like a wall from a distance, would lead us to another room. Amazing place.

    We finally left the museum around 3:15p. It was still raining … steady, light, wet. After running some errands, we headed home to leftovers for dinner … from yesterday’s lunch at the East Chinese Restaurant. Then, the dreaded packing chore … ugh!

    The Sydney bag has been repacked … the carry on bags await toiletries and other last minute items before they can be zipped up.

    We’re ready for the next phase of our Australia adventure.

    Tomorrow we embark Regatta.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: Opera House Tour (Thumbs Down)

    19. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    Our preferred backstage tour for the Sydney Opera House, a UNESCO World Heritage Site — recognized as “a masterpiece of human creativity” — had been sold out for quite sometime. Same with tickets for Swan Lake, the only performance we were interested in seeing. So, after checking one more time for cancelations earlier this week, we gave in and booked the 1-hour general tour.

    After finishing up at the Pylon Museum and Lookout , we strolled towards the Opera House. We still had time before our 2:45p tour, so we checked out some restaurants to get a bite for lunch. We settled on the East Chinese Restaurant, opting to sit inside as not only was it smoky outside, it was also humid … which made it quite uncomfortable on an already hot day.

    Arriving at the tour meeting point, we “cloaked” Mui’s daypack as it was deemed bigger than a piece of A3 paper. We then met up with the tour guide, who checked our tickets and issued headsets. All good so far.

    Unfortunately, I can’t say that the tour very was good. We didn’t see much that was truly interesting … and the commentary didn’t give us any insight that we couldn’t have gleaned for ourselves from the internet. Certainly, the tour wasn’t worth the money. It falls into the “loss” category for today.

    We started out with a short multimedia presentation that didn’t provide any information … just a sped up collection of photos and imagery set to loud music. Then we went into a room that was initially meant to be storage for the Main Stage above it … but was converted into a small stage for plays. Nothing really interesting there.

    Our route then took us up a bunch of stairs to the red-carpeted foyer for the Joan Sutherland Theater … used for opera and ballet performances. We did go into the theater itself … after watching a brief video about the building’s history in the lobby. No photos inside the theater, however … no idea why.

    Next, we went out to the open space between the two sides of the Opera House … this was sort of interesting as we got a different perspective of the “sails.” And then it was over. No, we did not get to go into the Main Stage … there was a matinee performance. True, the Opera House is an operating facility and there is always something going on somewhere. Disappointing nonetheless.

    We drowned our disappointment with a chocolate orange fondant cake at Guylian, a café associated with the famous Belgian chocolatier.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: Pylon Museum & Lookout

    19. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    “Our Bridge is made from a whopping 550,000 pieces of steel!”

    “6 million or 3200 tons of rivets hold our Bridge together!”

    “Did we mention it’s a pretty-strong Bridge? 96 trains were shunted onto the Bridge for load-testing … .”

    Those are just some of the tidbits we learned from today’s first outing.

    Our sixth day in Sydney dawned overcast … the skies hazy with wildfire smoke. I was hoping that it would clear before we set off for the Bridge Climb Pylon Museum & Lookout. No such luck. Oh well … with rain in the forecast for the next two days, we decided to proceed with our plan anyway.

    We started out by walking under the Sydney Harbour Bridge to check out — during daylight— the catwalks we had scrambled on and around to get to the ladders that had led us above the road deck for our bridge climb. As luck would have it, there were some climbers to add visual interest. (Just pretend they are us when you look at the photos 🤭)

    Finding the elevator from the street level up to the bridge level, next we took a short stroll to the southeast pylon where the museum and lookout are located. And then came the steps … over 200 in all … with some 130 of them from the museum level up to the lookout, which sits at 290+ feet above sea level.

    The focus of the small museum is the planning and construction of the bridge. There are a couple of artifacts in display cases, however, the exhibits are mostly short snippets of info to read … accompanied by historic photos. A 7-minute video, shown on a loop, highlights the key information … a quick overview, if you will.

    The Lookout is billed as the original Sydney city observation terrace. It’s worth the climb … though it would have been even better if we’d had blue skies as a backdrop for the scenery. Nonetheless, we enjoyed seeing the Sydney Harbour Bridge from a different perspective, searching out and finding the places we had climbed and walked on our bridge climb just two nights ago.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: St James’ Church

    18. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Before wrapping up our day with errands, we stopped in for a quick look-see at St James’ Church.

    Constructed between 1819-1824, it is Sydney’s oldest church. It was designed by the same convict architect — Francis Greenway — who designed the Hyde Park Barracks.

    This Anglican church wasn’t supposed to be a church at all. Rather, it was supposed to be a courthouse for Governor Macquarie. But a commissioner who was sent down from London overruled the governor and deemed the building to be constructed as a church.

    Regardless of what it ended up being, it is one of the surviving group of Macquarie Period buildings in the country. Though changes have been made since it’s completion in 1824, the building’s exterior has remained in the style of a Georgian town church.

    While the undercroft was used for many different purposes over the years — to bed down Allied servicemen during WWII being one of them — the feature that draws visitors down into that part of the church is the Children’s Chapel that was opened in 1929 for younger children. The walls and ceilings of the chapel are decorated with colorful murals.

    We went down to see the murals, but had to be satisfied with studying them through the glass door as the room was locked.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: Hyde Park Barracks Museum

    18. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    As we were very near the Hyde Park Barracks Museum, from the Archibald Fountain in the park we crossed the street to check it out.

    A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the barracks are described as an “extraordinary record of the living legacy of colonial Australia.” The compound, built to house convicts, was constructed between 1817-1819 … designed by convict architect Francis Greenway. Later it served as a depot and asylum for immigrant women. Then it transitioned into law courts and government offices. Today it is a very-well done museum to which admission is free.

    On arrival, we were given headphones and receivers that are essential for the immersive experience.

    The visit then started on the top floor of the building. As you move from one room to another — or from one display to another — the receiver senses your location and the appropriate commentary automatically starts up. The descriptions are fairly short … on purpose, I would think, because if you move away to another spot, the receiver senses the change and the story changes with the move.

    Dioramas and artifacts in display cases aid in bringing alive the experiences of the men and women who lived in the barracks back in the day.

    We both found this to be a fascinating museum.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: St Mary’s Cathedral

    18. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    From the Australian Museum we crossed the street to St Mary’s Cathedral.

    Considered the spiritual heart of Catholic Sydney, the foundation stone for the church was set in 1821 by Governor Macquarie. That first cathedral was destroyed by a fire in 1865. The one that stands today was built in two phases between 1866 and 1928, but it wasn’t until the year 2000 that the original design was fully completed. In the English Gothic revival style, it is Australia’s largest cathedral.

    We entered through the front door, I took a photo from the rear of the aisle, and just then the priest arrived to say Mass. Ooops, no more photos. Leaving would have disrupted the service, so we sat down to wait it out.

    I snuck out at one point to go down to the crypt — which the deacon said was OK to visit during Mass. There were beautiful tile details to keep me occupied for part of the service while Mui used the time to rest in a pew at the back of the church.

    Once the service was over and the congregants had left, I wandered around, studying the beautiful stained glass windows and taking photographs. Then, we were off to continue our sightseeing.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: Australian Museum

    18. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    From the ANZAC Memorial, we walked about mid-way down Hyde Park and then took a right to go to the Australian Museum across the street.

    The museum is billed as a place to experience “science, culture, and nature in the heart of Sydney.” Founded in 1827, it is Australia’s first museum. Today there are some 21 million cultural and scientific objects that are rotated through the exhibits.

    The amazing thing is that except for special exhibitions, such as the current “Ramses & the Gold of the Pharaohs,” there is no admission charged. Having spent three weeks in Egypt in 2018, we opted to skip the paid exhibit and visited the permanent ones only.

    With so much to see, we decided to focus on a few key exhibits … the 200 Treasures in the beautiful Westpac Long Gallery taking up most of our time. Of course, we didn’t skip the others … we just wandered through them at a faster pace.

    The 200 Treasures exhibit actually consists of 100 artifacts deemed most-valued plus the stories of 100 of Australia’s most-influential people. I must admit that I had a hard time stopping myself from photographing all of the treasured items, but I did my best as I would have otherwise still been in the gallery at closing time.

    Between visiting the galleries, we ended up on the top floor where we found one of the several food places in the museum — Bistro Gadi. It is apparently a pop-up venue. The menu had an Egyptian flare … a nod to the Ramses exhibit, I imagine. The concept was simple … one main + two sides; one main + 3 sides; 3-sides, etc … priced accordingly. With beautiful views of Hyde Park, St Mary’s Cathedral, and Woolloomooloo Bay as a bonus, it was a good place to take a break.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: ANZAC Memorial

    18. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    While we were relaxing at home yesterday — resting up for our Bridge Climb — we worked on a general list of things we want to see/do before we leave Sydney on the 21st.

    Today, we began to chip away at that list.

    It was a busy day of sightseeing! Made possible by comfy temps on a day that started out overcast but turned sunny by mid-afternoon. To save some steps, we started out by taking the T3 train from Circular Quay to the Museum Station, exiting at the south end of Hyde Park. Perfect … exactly where we wanted to be for the short walk to our first stop … the Art Deco style ANZAC Memorial.

    (For those unfamiliar with the term, it’s an acronym that stands for Australia and New Zealand Army Corps. By the way, I really condensed this footprint as best I could … you’ll just have to forgive the length as this site has special meaning for us. I promise, the remainder of today’s footprints won’t be nearly as wordy.)

    The ANZACs and the Turks were on opposite sides during WWI. In fact, they faced each other in some of the worst battles of the war … the Gallipoli Campaign … Gelibolu, in Turkish. Yet, they forged a special relationship that endures to this day. Whenever the opportunity presents itself during our travels, Mui and I search out ANZAC memorials … and participate in remembrance ceremonies … most recently aboard Insignia during our world cruise … and hopefully here in Australia before we leave.

    With that as a background … let’s move on to today’s memorial visit.

    The website describes the memorial as “A physical expression of the spirit and legend of the ANZAC — Honouring Service, and the Courage, Endurance, and Sacrifice by all servicemen, servicewomen and their families.” A quote, in part, by Bruce Dellit, designer of the memorial, describes war as leaving “… burning embers of destruction — is no thing of glamour and no cause for glorification.” Honoring sacrifices made by those who served without glorifying war is a delicate balance … well achieved at the memorial.

    Though we tend to associate the term ANZAC with the Gallipoli Campaign of WWI as that is when it was first used, the memorial is for all Australians, all armed and auxiliary services, and all campaigns in which they were involved. This is apparent in the imagery, symbolism, and inscriptions around the memorial.

    We found everything about the memorial exceptionally moving …

    … from the Hall of Service where the names of the places from which the WWI enlistees hailed are etched into black marble with embedded containers of soil from those places … and the ring of soil in the floor representing 100 battlefields and sites of military significance for service personnel from NSW;

    … to the Hall of Silence … at the center of which stands George Rayner Hoff’s “Sacrifice” … based on the story of Spartan warriors from Greece being sent off to war with the words “to come home with their shield or on it”;

    … to the Hall of Memory … with its balustraded-opening decorated like a wreath forming the top of the Well of Contemplation looking down on the Hall of Silence … the Dome of Stars with some 120,000 gold stars representing the men and women who served overseas during the Great War … the Flame Room with what we would refer to as the eternal flame, flanked by the flags of Australia, New Zealand, and NSW … the Niches of Remembrance representing the principal theaters of war in which the Australians served during the Great War … Gallipoli, the Western Front, Egypt and the Sinai-Palestine, and the principal sea battles of the Royal Australian Navy;

    … to the plaque with the words of Atatürk’s famous “Letter to the Mothers” … addressed to the mothers of the ANZAC soldiers who fell during the Gallipoli Campaign and who are buried in Gelibolu;

    … to the special memorial to all Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander people who served to defend the country … consisting of giant bullets … some upright, some on their sides.

    I’ll end this footprint with the words at the bottom of the plaque at Aboriginal and Torres Strait Islander Memorial … meaningful words that also explain the positioning of the “bullets” … and which are appropriate to the ANZAC Memorial in general …

    “We remember those fallen … We honor those standing.”
    Les mer

  • Sydney: Coathanger Summit Climb

    17. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Reader beware! An exceptional experience deserves an exceptionally long footprint.

    Today started as an easy day at home. Why? Because we wanted to be rested and fresh for tonight’s grand adventure.

    Not that we were idle, mind you. We worked on a loose plan for the remainder of our days in Sydney and did some chores. We also went out for a nice lunch at the neighborhood pub around the corner from us … The Hero of Waterloo! Great fish and chips … so-so burger … delicious crème brûlée.

    With a span of 1,640 feet, the Sydney Harbour Bridge — an iconic landmark, which the locals fondly call the Coathanger — is one of the world’s longest steel-arch bridges. You can drive across it. You can take a train across it. You can walk across it. And if you are adventurous enough, you can climb it … except on December 30 and December 31, when the climb takes a back seat to preparations for the world-famous New Year’s Eve fireworks display.

    When we left the USA, we were still unsure if we wanted to do the Sydney Harbour Bridge Climb. We also wanted to make sure that if we decided to go ahead, we would have a nice day for it as the experience operates rain or shine. In the rain would be no fun. So, we opted not to make any reservations. That turned out to be OK as we found plenty of availability when we checked the website a few days ago … thanks to being flexible with our dates. We even managed to book a night climb … our first choice of all the available options.

    The Bridge Climb is no Mickey Mouse operation … even if we did have Disney Wonder docked in Circular Quay while we were climbing the bridge!

    First, there are all kinds of rules about what you can take with you on the climb … which is little more than the clothes on your back. Loose items are all dis-allowed … no bracelets or dangly jewelry, no barrettes or hairpins, no bags, no open-toe or unlaced shoes, no cameras or phones, no nothing. Anything that is allowed — such as eyeglasses — must be secured to your person by lanyards with special clips. And any essential meds — such as asthma inhalers — must be carried by the climb guide.

    Next, there are a bunch of safety measures to get through … watching a safety video; doing a breathalyzer test; donning a “blend-into-the-steel-structure-of-the-bridge” climb suit; buckling into a safety harness; tethering eyeglasses to our suits with lanyards and special clips; getting issued headlights and headsets … just to name the ones I remember off hand. The whole process took about 30 minutes, with checks and double checks by staff before we were given the thumbs up.

    All prepped, it was time to set out on the climb. But first, we received instruction on how to negotiate the four ladders that would take us from below the road deck to the outer arch of the bridge. The instruction included practicing going up and down ladders similar to the ones we’d be negotiating during the climb.

    Finally, we stepped into the Climb Base below the Bradfield Highway — the road carried across Sydney Harbour by the bridge. After latching onto the safety guide wire, we set off on a walk that took us across narrow catwalks and steps and cantilevers. The walk was fairly fast-paced, but not so much so that you were left breathless. There was, however, little time to dally. Paying attention to where we were stepping so as not to run afoul of low overhead beams and other steel infrastructure, meant that there wasn’t much time to take in the views. No worries, that would come later.

    Our initial destination was the Southeast Pylon. Once we arrived there, it was time to go up the aforementioned four ladders — vehicle traffic and trains whizzing by overhead as we did so. The ladders took us up to the start of the outer arch. From there to the summit it was all steps … 1,332 in all — no, I didn’t count them for myself.

    As we made our way up to the tippy top of the bridge, we had several opportunities to stop and take in the delightful skyline … the Sydney Opera House was the main attraction … though Disney Wonder did garner quite a bit of attention, too. We even had some entertainment along the way … fireworks in the distance and music from the party boats flitting here and there in the harbor.

    Before we set out, our climb guide had instructed us to line up in a specific way … all group members together … from shortest to tallest. This was essential for the photo-ops during the climb as we could not un-tether to juggle around each other. There were three photo-ops … one with the Sydney Opera House; one at the tippy-top where the two 65-foot tall flag poles fly the Aboriginal and the Australian flags; and another one with the skyline as a background. A special contraption ensured the camera was kept steady for the shots taken with flashlight.

    Crossing the catwalk at the summit, we made our way to the southwest side of the bridge. After enjoying the views from that vantage point and completing the skyline photo op, we began the descent back down to the Climb Base.

    When we arrived, we gave ourselves a round of applause before going into the ready room to divest ourselves of all the accoutrements we’d been loaded up with. Then, receiving our “Bridge Climb Sydney” hats — nothing like being walking billboards for the experience — we went off to change out of our climb suits.

    Of course, with no cameras of our own, it was a foregone conclusion that we’d be buying the “official photos” from our climb. Having pre-purchased the package with our climb tickets, picking up a voucher to download the photos at our leisure was all we had to do.

    Thus, not only have we joined the millions of everyday guys and gals who have accomplished the climb over the past 25 years, but we are also now in the company of celebrities like Oprah Winfrey, Will Smith, Matt Damon, Nicole Kidman, Robert De Niro, Pierce Brosnan, Cate Blanchett, Prince Harry, and many others who have conquered the Coathanger.

    Oh by the way … if you are amongst those who would only venture onto the bridge due to the additional safety measure provided to the structure by the four pylons added after the bridge was constructed. I hate to burst your bubble, but those pylons are just for show and do nothing for the bridge. In fact, they are not even secured to the bridge structure!
    Les mer

  • Sydney: Taronga Zoo

    16. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 88 °F

    Of course we prefer to see animals in the wild. Who doesn’t?

    But that is not always possible. We believe that zoos — well run and credentialed ones — have an important role to play in the animal world … and we don’t mind supporting those that participate in worthwhile conservation programs by visiting them on occasion.

    The website indicates that Taronga “… cares for over 5,000 animals from over 350 species, many of which are threatened.” It is committed to not just the conservation of wildlife in Australia, but around the world as well. As we wandered around, I noted several references in information panels to the zoo’s active involvement in breed and release programs. So, they do good work.

    On that note, here’s the story of today’s visit to Taronga Zoo, which officially opened in 1916. Taronga is an Aboriginal word that means "beautiful view". An exceptionally appropriate moniker as we enjoyed delightful views of the city from various points around the grounds as we visited the many different animal habitats.

    Located in the suburb of Mosman, a 12-minute ferry ride took us from Circular Quay to the zoo. The ferry wharf for Taronga is near the lower entrance. It’s possible to walk up through the grounds from there. But we did something better. Bus 238 — which transfers ferry passengers from the wharf to Balmoral — makes its first stop at the upper (main) zoo entrance. The bus was waiting at the wharf stop, so, we hopped on. Well worth the AUD $1/person fare … which, in USD, comes out to about $0.67/person.

    (By the way, we are loving the tap on/tap off system in place for public transportation … ApplePay/GooglePay work beautifully, so we have not had to invest in Opal Cards.)

    Once the zoo opened at 9:30a, we followed the meandering paths back down through the grounds … seeking shade wherever we could find it. What we thought would be a 2-hour visit lasted twice as long. Fun times in the company of not-so-wildlife. Despite the brutal sun — the high today was 90F — the animals were out and active … our thanks to all the critters for cooperating with our plans today.

    Returning to Sydney on the ferry, we searched out a place for a late lunch. We ended up at the Munich Pub in The Rocks where good German food and local beer served as a wrap up for our day.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: A Secret Garden & Lunch

    15. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    At the end of our stroll along Lavender Bay, we hung a right and went under the train rails to find ourselves in what our friend had described as a “gem” … Wendy’s Secret Garden.

    This is no manicured garden. Rather, it has an almost jungle-like vibe … very rustic … with paths meandering this way and that through various levels. Garden statues and rusty artifacts tucked into nooks and crannies. Very peaceful … a perfect place to get away from the hubbub of big city living for a few hours … especially on a three-ship-day in Sydney.

    The Wendy mentioned here is Wendy Whiteley, wife of renowned painter, Brett Whitely. Following Brett’s death in 1992, grief-stricken, she threw herself into clearing piles of overgrowth on the land at the foot of their house. From this effort today’s garden was born … still maintained by gardeners whom she employs.

    Contrary to its name, the garden is not a secret. In fact, the website describes it as “ … one of the worst kept secrets in Sydney … .” That might well be the case. Today, however, we pretty much had it to ourselves, encountering only a few people … and those at a distance.

    Eventually we made our way to the top of the garden and walked across the road to the Kirribilli Club. Since we are not members, Mui had to register, but as our friend had told us, we did not have to pay for a membership.

    Our destination at the club was the restaurant … Lavender by the Bay. We arrived at 11:30a and snagged one of the few remaining tables on the terrace. The kitchen, we were told, would open at noon. No worries. With the spectacular view as eye candy, we ordered a couple glasses of Pinot Noir from the Adelaide Hills and whiled away the time easily enough.

    For lunch, we ordered a cheesy mushroom arancini starter that was perfectly fried to a golden hue … and followed that with the seafood platter … which consisted of cold and hot selections. To wrap up … a delicious carrot cake.

    After lunch, we followed a different path that took us through Clark Park and down from there to the waterfront. A delightful stroll — it wasn’t as hot today as it was yesterday — took us back to the wharf for the ferry to Circular Quay.

    We had noted that there was a concert in a park in The Rocks tonight. So, we headed home for a couple of hours to rest up. Unfortunately, the concert turned out not to cater to our taste in music, so when we did venture out again, we did not stay long. Oh well … we still had a lovely day.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: Along Lavender Bay

    15. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☁️ 75 °F

    After a goodnight’s rest, we were up early. Not because of jet lag, mind you. But simply because we are early birds. In fact, considering the time change we put our bodies through to get to Sydney, we’re doing pretty darn good in the jet lag department.

    The plan was to take it easy today. To that end, we took the advice of a friend who used to live in Sydney and hopped on a ferry to cross Sydney Harbor to Milsons Point. On the agenda was a stroll along Lavender Bay and a visit to … well, that part will be in the next footprint.

    The ride across from Circular Quay was a short one … five minutes , if that. Turns out that the Milsons Point Wharf is where the Luna Park is located. There sure were some crazy rides that had riders screaming their heads off … only to turn around and go back for seconds! No thanks … not our cup of tea.

    Lavender Bay is a suburb on the lower North Shore of Sydney. Known as Gooweebahree in the Dharug language of the Aboriginal people, Lavender Bay was named after the bosun of the Phoenix, a prison hulk that was moored in these waters for many years.

    We followed the shoreline path, enjoying the lovely skyline views that included the Opera House in the distance … the Coathanger, as the Sydney Harbor Bridge is fondly called, dominating the foreground views. We stopped frequently for photo ops during our relatively solitary stroll as there weren’t many people out and about in the mid-morning hours.
    Les mer

  • Sydney: Errands & More

    14. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 99 °F

    Just because the plan for today was to run a bunch of errands doesn’t mean that we didn’t stop to enjoy the sights around the city as we went from one shop to another.

    What was on our list?

    Pick-me-up beverages at the Bar Cycle in Marsh Bay … an iced Americano for Mui; tea for me … and a spinach and feta roll to share.

    Groceries, of course … we plan to self-cater at least some of our meals.

    A couple of eSIMs from Telstra so that we have Australian phone numbers and data for ease of communication … T-Mobile’s not going to cut it in a number of places we plan to visit over the next 4.5 months.

    A lightning to USB-A pigtail from Apple so Mui can download his GoPro videos to an external drive through his iPad … we both left our laptops at home in Colorado in an effort to simplify our electronics on this trip. Fingers crossed it works out!

    A couple of honest-to-goodness Australian Outback hats … specifically the Akubra brand, which Mui had his heart set on.

    Our plans to have dinner out after our errands didn’t quite work out. Timing issues. But also, it got hot very quickly … 97F by the time we wrapped up our errands around 3:30p. I was drained … stick-a-fork-in-me done. A 14,000-step day following a 17-hour flight might have had something to do with our change of plans, too.

    We’ll pick up our sightseeing tomorrow … the weather being the driver behind what we decide to do. One thing is for sure … we’re looking forward to more chats with friendly Aussies.
    Les mer

  • We Have Arrived in Sydney

    14. desember 2023, Australia ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Welcome to Sydney, Australia!

    UA 101 landed at SYD 10 minutes ahead of schedule.

    Since we qualified for using the Smart Gates to enter the country, after deplaning we quickly went through the two-step DIY process that included scanning our passports, receiving a pass, and going through a biometric-verification gate.

    The only time we saw Border Forces Agents was when they collected our entry passes and customs forms (completed on the plane) at the “nothing to declare” gate after we collected our bags.

    Then it was just a matter of ordering an Uber to take us to the AirBNB apartment in The Rocks … our home away from home for a week.

    We’ll refresh ourselves and then head out to do some grocery shopping.

    The plan is to stay active so that we can start adjusting to the 18-hour time difference. What we will actually do is still TBD.
    Les mer

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