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Meandering East

desember 2017 - juni 2025
Our family of three travelled in our off-grid camper, slowly making our way East, literally and metaphorically. Currently static in Al Andalus. For now. Taking in the history and learning a bit about natural farming. Les mer
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  • ReisendeMeandering East

    Split

    20. juni 2018, Kroatia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Uncle Tony was staying in Split for three nights in a hotel then we had planned to drive down the coast and he to leave from Dubrovnik seven days later. We stayed in various car parks in the the Marjan Hill area of Split in the archaeology museum car park, Jezinac beach and Kasjuni beach, while Tony stayed in the old town. We wandered the old town together, explored the Diocletian Palace and attempted a city beach swim which got disrupted by the throngs of beach goers as it turned out to be a public holiday celebrating Anti-fascism. Strangely we bumped into two separate Croatian people who remembered us from Los Canos de Meca in Spain.Les mer

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  • ReisendeMeandering East

    Makarska riviera

    23. juni 2018, Kroatia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We drove with Tony on board along the coast, next stop Camping Makarska Riviera. We stopped and shopped in the picturesque town of Omis on the river, before pitching up at the large campsite among the pine trees on a fairly commercial stretch of beach. We enjoyed eating ice-cream, watching the sun set and riding the train in the evening along the 4km stretch of coast to the centre of town and back. The following day we attempted to trek to Nugal Beach from Tucepi but found the coastal path was not suitable for a toddler or a 70 year old so we sped on and were glad we did as the next stop was awesome.Les mer

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  • ReisendeMeandering East

    Luka, Trpanj

    24. juni 2018, Kroatia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We planned another stop between Makarska and Dubrovnik and quite randomly decided to try somewhere on the peninsula and picked a reasonably priced campsite on a beach near the town of Trpanj. The quickest way to get there was car ferry from Ploce on the mainland so we boarded the three o’clock. We had a hunch it might be less crowded, commercial and built up on this peninsula but we were blown away with this choice. The ferry arrived in the small harbour of the pretty town of Trpanj and we drove narrow streets for a few kilometres until we saw a caravan through the olive trees. Luka - a secluded palm tree lined beach cove with views of the mainland mountains and was our favourite spot in Croatia. Camp Vrila was German run, understated and had a lovely chilled vibe. We were sad to be staying only one night. Tony’s apartment was five minutes walk away and had a balcony with views of the sea. We left the peninsula via road- an awesome drive, through the valley stopping at the Great Wall of China-style fortified town of Ston.Les mer

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  • ReisendeMeandering East

    Dubrovnik

    25. juni 2018, Kroatia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Tony’s last stop was Dubrovnik and we dropped him at his hotel before trying to park for the night ourselves. Dubrovnik is an epic place - a fortified city where higgledy piggledy houses, forts, castles and churches seem to nestle between mountains and islands with winding roads perched on sheer drop cliffs that seem to hang above the city, before tunnelling into mountains and pirate ships sail by between the islands. Great location for Game of Thrones. Nowhere to park a 20ft Motorhome. We managed to park illegally briefly to say our goodbyes and saw Tony off from here before setting off to Bosnia. Or Montenegro. Which ever country would take us with the least hassle.Les mer

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  • ReisendeMeandering East

    Risan

    26. juni 2018, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We decided to head straight for Albania and spend some time relaxing there with cheaper food and cheaper campsites. We spent two days driving through Montenegro which we loved. It was rainy and grey but the country was rugged and green and lush and wild. Buildings got scruffier, vehicles got older, things felt free-er. We much preferred this feeling to the polished regulation of Croatia. We drove through Kotor, Budva and Podgorica, stopping the night by an abandoned house on the water at Risan. Kotor was epic: a fortified busy port town on the tip of the water inlet. The inlet is shaped like a butterfly and feels more like a lake so it feels surreal to see giant cruise ships moored up looming over the town.Les mer

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  • ReisendeMeandering East

    Lake Shkodra and Theth

    27. juni 2018, Albania ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    When we entered Albania we headed to the nearest campsite on our map which was Lake Shkodra resort. It was a strip of land like a run-way where at one end your eye was taken up to snow capped mountains and at the other end a wooden jetty jutted out into the still lake with the mountains of Montenegro beyond. A restaurant on the lakeside served lovely food and children played racquet sports. We stayed for four days to recoup and did some canoeing on the lake. We then decided to drive to the ‘blue eye’ of northern Albania which was near Theth in the mountains. We drove the narrow windey mountain road for an hour or so where nearly at the top it became a dirt track with no crash barrier and no passing places - only 4x4s passed us. We parked up and slept at the top for the night and then drove back down in the morning. We drove through the busy market town of Shkodra headed for Krujë next.Les mer

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  • ReisendeMeandering East

    Kruje

    2. juli 2018, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The mountain town of Krujë was recommended as a day trip from Shkodra so we decided to make it our next stop. Krujë Camping was a lovely, small rustic campsite and we arrived to find it empty. We mused to ourselves that maybe the owner had gone to buy bread, or to mosque, and indeed he had done both, and soon returned to greet us. H had great fun rambling around the hilly stepped site blooming with olive trees, fruit trees, herbs and flowers, chickens roosting in the old concrete bunker, a duck and a guard dog. Shputim, the host gave us a lot of his time and told us a lot about Albania. We spent an hour in the town the next day which had a castle and a recently restored artisan market in the centre but H was too tempted to touch all the handicrafts so we cut our losses and moved on. Tagan was keen to find halal meat and found a halal butchers in Fushe-Kruje at the bottom of the hill. For some reason, butchers seemed to be attached to petrol stations.Les mer

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  • ReisendeMeandering East

    Llogara National Park

    3. juli 2018, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We re-remembered that cities unfortunately were not easy for us so we drove through Tirana, headed for the coast. We hit Vlora, a large beach town which had an American feel to it- like a cross between Miami and San Francisco. Wide boulevards, palm trees, and 1970s villas perched atop huge craggy cliffs. We continued along the built-up beach resort coast line, which felt quirkier and shabbier than Croatia. Also in Croatia it felt like people lived along the beach, here it felt like just holiday makers. We camped on a basic beach site in Orikum and had the worst mosquito attack yet. We moved on quite depressed. We headed for the next beach only to find a massive mountain in the way- llogora. It was a stunning drive, and when we got to top we were above the clouds. We stopped at an epic parking place and took in the view: mountains tumbling down to beaches, and bright blue sea below. The layer of cloud between us and the beach made it feel like we were upside down. It was totally surreal and vertigo inducing. The photos don’t do it justice. Our breaks failed on the way down the other side, but we were safe and two Albanian men came to the rescue and delivered us safely to Dhermi beach.Les mer

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  • ReisendeMeandering East

    Gjipe beach

    5. juli 2018, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Gjipe beach is a hidden beach in the gorge of a densely wooded river valley. It can only be reached by foot, just about by 4x4, or by boat. We parked at the top of the gorge and trekked the kilometre walk down the coastal path. The view of the coast and the beach was absolutely stunning. Despite its remoteness there were still fifty or so people there, and three beach shacks selling food and drink. There was also a simple ‘eco’ campsite set back along the river with makeshift showers, communal meals, a few solar panels and hundreds of butterflies. we decided a rent a tent here for the night and hike back up in the morning when it was cooler. H enjoyed the noises of the forest and the silhouettes of the spiders, beetles and bugs on the tent as the morning sun shone in, and petting the litter of puppies that the campsite dog had just birthed. Somebody cried all the way back up the hill and we arrived at the bus to find a puncture needed changing. Gjipe beach should stay this way forever, but it won’t. There was already talk of the land being sold.Les mer

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  • ReisendeMeandering East
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    Livadhi beach

    6. juli 2018, Albania ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We were looking for a beach where we could wild camp in the shade of a tree for weeks on end, but none of the beaches had been suitable so far. Livadhi was a long stretch of beach near the town of Himare. It had a couple of hotels and bars at the top end and then the dirt track continued into olive groves peppered with campsites and the odd beach shack. Horses and donkeys roamed around and Albanians trying to make money for the season selling umbrella shade camped in tents and caravans along the beach. We liked that this beach was not so developed. We spent nearly a week here at a Nasho’s Greek run campsite where we got the brakes fixed, ate like kings, swam in the sea twice a day and made some friends. H played for hours on his own in our camp building empires, learnt to swim and made friends with two Italian girls. We were sad to leave.Les mer

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