• Jodie Faulkner
  • Jodie Faulkner

Camino de Santiago 2024

Paris to Santiago to Dublin Leggi altro
  • Inizio del viaggio
    5 settembre 2024
  • Paris to St Jean de Pied

    7–8 set 2024, Francia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Boarded the train at 10am for a 5 hour journey through the picturesque French countryside.
    I reflect on my night in Paris that I enjoyed much more than anticipated. It was putting myself out of my comfort zone to walk into a crowded cafe surrounded by people speaking French and order a meal that made my experience authentic.
    The train to St Jean de Port Pied was filled with excited Pilgrims all starting tomorrow.
    St Jean de Port Pied is a traditional stone walled city, cobblestone narrow streets, picturebook stuff ! And Gite de la Jacque Albergue was a perfect choice for accommodation, an extremely quaint 400 year old building. I sat around the table for breakfast with the other Pilgrims who were lovely, the host, Nicole, gave us a Camino journey ceremony including the John Denver track "Sweet Surrender" to send us on our way. It made a special start.
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  • Camino Day One over the Pyrenees

    8–9 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    28kms St Jean de Port Pied to Roncesvalles
    Spectacular scenery over the Pyrenees Mountain range
    Solitary but a sense of family
    6 and a half hours
    I made it and loved it !
    Overnight Hotel la Posada, a restored medievil hotel XVI century
    in a stunning rural setting in Roncesvalles
    The Monestry hostel is also a feast for my eyes... original XII century medievil
    building purpose built to house hundreds of exhausted Pilgrims.
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  • Day 2 Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    9–10 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    After a quiet night in my luxuious Posada Roncesvalles room and a lovely French breaky of yoghurt, pastries, ham and cheese, I was ready to tackle my 28km walk today.
    It was a challenging walk with many hills, so glad that I trained ! I walked alone but it is one big Camino pilgrim family here. There was a German fellow singing, father and son happily chatting and a woman who looked about 90 yrs in her dress, cardy and joggers. Tonight I stay in Zubiri Etapa Hostal in a dorm room with 4 others, already treated myself to a vino tinto and tapas, I will sleep well.Leggi altro

  • Day 3 Zubiri to Pamplona

    10–11 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Set out at 730am this morning with 23km to walk fully loaded with my 8kg pack for the first time. I was certainly feeling the extra weight by the end of the day but glad I did it.
    Pamplona is the capital of the Navarre region, an historic gothic walled city founded in 75BC by Julius Caesars rival, Snafus Pompeius Magnus.
    Famous because it hosts the running of the bulls every year in July.
    Today I followed Joseph from New York on the trail today, good company and a wealth of historic information.
    I'm staying in the Cathedral Plaza hostel with a great view of the epic cathedral, bunk room of 12 people and have some other Australians here to make me feel at home. Had my first Paella for dinner, yum !
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  • Day 4 Pamplona to Puerto la Reina

    11 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Had my first encounter with a top bunk last night at the hostel in Pamplona, packing up this morning was tricky. Headed out of beautiful Pamplona about 830am having cafe con leche and churros for breaky at a quaint pastry shop.
    The walk was 23km over a wind turbine hill, transported my luggage ahead, and purposely walked slower today.
    Passed the famous pilgrim statues, quaint little villages, and then descended via rocky paths to Puerta la Reina. Met a lively bunch of Irish gals, walked and chatted with 28-year-old Rocky from Lithuania, he reminded me of Forest Gump ! Interesting guy had blisters and terrible foot pain, carrying his life in 23 kg pack having started 3 months ago hitch hiking through Netherlands and France, on a year long journey, 5 euro day budget, lost 11kg so far. Wants to settle in Australia eventually.... I didn't know it yet but Rocky would become my most staple pilgrim companion, practising his English on me and we would both finish at Santiago on the same day.
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  • Day 5 Puerto la Reina to Estella

    12–13 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Private room in Hotel Jacque and a good rest. Went for a sunrise walk at 7am before breaky to photograph the iconic bridge, couldn't resist ! before setting off for 22 km to Estella about 930 am carrying my 8kg pack.
    Picture perfect hilltop towns and vineyards, olive groves, and wild plums along the way.
    Walked with Maryanne from Townsville half the way and then had a pilgrim dinner at 5pm in Estelle with Marda from Sydney. We were both starving!
    Estella has the most amazing buildings, wow !
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  • Day 6 Estella to Sansol

    13–14 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Estella was a beautiful traditional Spanish village built along a river. All the locals out walking in the evening, so friendly. Agora Hostel was old on the outside and fully Ikea decked out 8 years ago on the inside, clean and fresh. Had a quad room to myself and the best hot shower. Alfonso delightful host did my washing for 5 euros.
    Today's walk 28 km not difficult, passing the Monastry famous wine fountain continuing a tradition of providing wine for the Pilgrims.
    Caught up with Lithuanian Rocky again who stole us some grapes from the vineyard, also walked with Isabella from Brisbane and Ben from NZ. Tom and Malcolm, I had met 2 days ago at the iron Pilgrims and Jason from the Albergue on Day one. There are many with injuries but I am good so far.
    Tonight in a quiet village, gorgeous Hostal Sansol bunk room with 24 pilgrims. Had a delicious Paella dinner with all the pilgrims. Early to bed, 5 degrees overnight but warm as toast in the hostal.
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  • Day 7 Sansol to Logrono

    14–15 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Albergue Sansol host was a very funny man. Asked him what's for breaky this morning and he said "you can have whatever you want because this is paradise" in his Antonio Bandaras Spanish accent.....
    So I had 2 fried eggs, ham, toast yoghurt and coffee. He gave me a huge hug on departure telling me I was a good person (I had tipped him 1 euro)
    22km nice slow walk today with Marda from Sydney, Michelle from Utah stopping several times. Carrying my full pack from now on.
    Arrived into Logrono, capital of the La Rioja wine region. A larger town blending the ancient 11th Century medievil with a modern younger university population, famous for its authentic tapas bars. Marda and I had tapas and a wine slushy, ( pinchos) Tom from Derry in Ireland, Marda and I went to St Patrick's Irish pub, they took our photo and transferred it onto the Guiness froth.
    Winderfel Hostel bunk room.
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  • Day 8 Logrono to Najera

    15–16 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Early morning out at 7am to cover 29 kms today. Mostly walking with Marda, she is a lot slower than me but it's nice to do a slow pace.
    10km before breaky then a long haul through wine country into Najera around 4pm.
    Just like something from an old Spanish movie set, the town is sitting beside stunning red cliffs.
    Bought some cheese and bickies for dinner, nothing open until 730pm and there is some kind of festival going on that I feel better avoiding.
    Private room wirh heaps of character and balcony beside the cliffs in Hostel Cuidad Najera and early night.
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  • Day 10 Santa Domingo to Belorado

    17–18 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Breakfast buffet at the Parador was delicious and shared a table with Tom and Malcolm, it was nice to catch up with them.
    830am commenced my walk to Belorado, after 5km caught up with Joanne and Bob from Canada Toronto to walk with, husband and wife only married one year.
    Staying at Cuesta Albergue in bunk room 7 bunks and looking forward to the Pilgrims meal tonight, I'm starving.
    Francesca Usa, Sharon Korea and Matts Norway, Janet and Lyn from New Jersey in bunks around me.
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  • Day 11 Belorado to San Juan de Ortiga

    18 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    First night of no forward booking, out at 530am in the moonlight following 2 Japanese pilgrims with headlamps to make it 24 km to the municipal monestary ahead of the crowd and secure a bed.
    Came across Page from Georgia USA, a walking buddy, although she was a little bit loopy (a 47 year old traumatized with mother and commitment issues, walked away from 2 engagements), we chatted and filled in the time arriving ahead of the crowd. A book she recommended by an Australian author "Juicy life"
    The monestary bunkhouse in San Juan Ortiga is an ancient building accommodating more than 100 pilgrims and my home for the night... I am excited to be staying here.
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  • Day 12 San Juan de Ortega to Burgos

    19–20 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Slept well in the Monestary, it was cold, I was glad they provided a blanket. Left at 6am for 26km walk to Burgos and race for Municipal bunk bed. Got a bed.
    My shin muscle is a bit stiff today, I walked too fast yesterday while chatting with Page from Usa.
    Solo walk today, it was peaceful. Passing huge wheat harvests and a green shady last 5km along the River into Burgos. The Spanish are huge walkers with many elderly out strolling arm in arm and offering "Buen Camino" to strangers. It's a beautiful lifestyle here.
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  • Day 13 Burgos to Hornillos del Camino

    20 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    An early morning, 7am its still dark.
    Today is the beginning of a 220km stretch walking through the Meseta, spanish desert.... 20km today.
    Stopped for breaky in a cute little cafe run by Mother, daughter and Grandaughter.
    Entered the Meseta dessert crossing and chatted with Clements from Germany, a quietly spoken man, happy for the company as the crowds of pilgrims seem to have dispersed. He is a lovely man from Hanover walking solo with 2 daughters and wife at home. He was also in the monestery 2 nights prior and mentioned to me that I was one of the 2 people snoring !
    Arrived into Hornillos, an old rural town a bit like a movie scene from a Spanish western.
    Lucky got the last bed in The Meeting Place Aubergue, bunk bed in 10 room.
    Ran into Martha again looking for food, had a delicious ham and cheese on crusty bread.
    Pilgrims meal tonight at the Albergue.
    After dinner, a local opera/jazz/blues performance to top the day !
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  • Day 14 Hornillios to Castrojeritz

    21 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Had a good rest in Hornillios last night and hit the road at 8am this morning. Walked with Anje from USA/Poland for a while then caught up with Marda.and we walked a slow walk all the way to Castrojeritz. Nice morning tea stop sharing an egg crusty bread and chocolate croissant.
    My shin is a bit stiff and swollen today but ok.
    Rosalie Hostal tonight and Pilgrims dinner.
    Wandered around Castrojeritz pre dinner, absolutely stunning old village style almost rubble buildings and Roman paths. The history here is mind blowing and beautiful.
    As I sit in an outdoor public space writing this, there is an old Spanish man whistling a serenade. Music to my ears.
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  • Day 15 Castrojeritz to Boadilla del Cami

    22–23 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Rosalie Albergue was in the top end of town, a good location, pilgrims dinner and authentic old spanish hostel, Happy to chat with Isabelle from Brisbane in my bunk room of 4. Scrambled egg pilgrims breakfast and on the trail at 730am leaving the memorable old town behind.
    Walked with Janice and Tony for 10km to morning tea stop and the desert km pass quickly. The scenery is surprisingly contrasting to previous days with a gentle hill leading to a spectacular valley crossing.
    My shin splint is better than expected but I slowed down the last few km into my destination today. Iced it and will rest this afternoon.
    A private room tonight and have already eaten a huge meal of white bean salad, pork loin and chips with wine and bread.
    Boadilla is a quiet little village but overflowing with Pilgrims and chitter chatter. Sat in the village square to soak up the sun and culture as Tom and Malcom wander in.... I owe them a glass of white wine from a few days ago when they found me wandering around....
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  • Day 16 Boadilla to Carrion del Camino

    23 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Spent 3 hours last night forward booking all Camino accommodation and reading my Brierley Camino Guide Book. I have some knowledge of the second half of the journey. It's all about to change !
    Today's walk was an early start out the door in the dark at 7am to cover 26km of long flat track across the Meseta. Caught up with Joanna and Bob at Fromista breaky stop and our chatter passed the kms quickly.
    Arrived in Carrion del Camino and overwhelmed by my private room accommodation tonight in The Real Monestary San Zoile, a repurposed 11th Century massive Monestary, WOW !
    Met a lovely pilgrim from Singapore, Reyna, also staying there, had lunch together at the Monastry restaurant located on the top floor amongst 1000 year old beams, it was a surreal setting.
    An a la carte lunch of bread, wine, cold tomato soup, tuna pickle salad, sirloin steak and cheesecake with cookie and fig icecream, decafinado coffee. Followed by a long hot bath in my 1000 yr old room filled with character.
    An evening walk led Reyna and I to the 7pm Santa Maria church mass where we met our pilgrim friend Kathy and after mass received a Pilgrims blessing by the singing nuns. Quite a special highlight.
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  • Day 17 Carrion to Ledigos

    24 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Picnic day ! It was a long straight walk today and we were lucky enough to come across a picnic table to lay out our feast of wine, cured meats, cheese, chocolates, grapes and baguette. It was a fun day with Reyna, Kathy, Declan and a very special memory.
    My pack was much lighter when we continued, it rained a little bit so we ponchos up.
    Afternoon arrival into La Morena Hostel, interesting pod style bunk bed.
    The pilgrims meal together was the best so far, 3 couses starting with Irish stew !, there are many familiar faces staying here, including my Irish/American pilgrim friend Declan, who would become a treasured source of Ireland knowledge and tips for me.
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  • Day 18 Ledigos to Calzada del Coto

    25 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    First day of walking in the rain, walked by myself, 20kms and arrived early to secure a bunk bed at the municipal hostel.
    Tomorrow heading out on the Roman path , a route forged by Julius Caesar and his army. This is the option to avoid walking beside a main road.
    Supermarket sandwich at the end of my walk and the local fruit is really good.
    Early night
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  • Day 19 Calzada to Reliegos

    26–27 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Set off in the rain with my new friend Sophie from Belgium. Rocky, and his friend Richard came from the previous village to walk with us. We are the only ones from the hostel who have chosen to walk the Roman route today because of the weather, it is an unsealed path and there was a lot of rain forecast....
    23 km to Relieigos, it was good to have company, a long road with no small villages.
    We left Rocky 5km before Relegios, his feet were in a bad way having just done an 80km non stop walk to catch up after his delay in Burgos.
    Sophie speaks 4 languages and phoned ahead to secure us a bunk in the municipal hostel. She was great company. We stuffed our shoes with newspaper to help them dry and after hot showers headed to the local restaurant run by the twins, Gils Restaurant for a delicious 3 course pilgrims dinner. The food was amazing ! very hospitable lady. Once again, a group of familiar faces and we all had an enjoyable dinner together.
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  • Day 20 Reliegos to Leon

    27 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Sunrise start this morning.
    Sophie and I had a good day walking together, the last section of the Meseta desert.
    Stopped for breaky. snacks and chats.
    A long walk into Leon through the new part of the city.
    My hostel Quarter Leon Jacquebiru is very nice. comfy, old building. Great location in the old town. Leon is one of the largest cities on the Camino, the old town is magical and has a magnificent cathedral.
    Met Ellie from Tassie, she is 70 years old and struggling with an ankle injury.
    We had dinner at a cosy restaurant and train tour around the old city. Nice night.
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  • Day 21 Leon to Villares de Orbigo

    28–29 set 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    38km today and 59 000 steps !
    My biggest day so far.
    Glad to move on from Leon, it is a large city and took a long time to exit.
    I was happy to have a solo walk day after a few days with company. Although glad to have met Sofie from Belgium, whom I walked with for the past two days, she was such a genuine person.
    A pleasant reward arriving into my destination, the cutest little village.
    And a delicious pilgrims dinner with some new friends, Joe, Jerry, Jenny... the 3 Js who quickly adopted me as their 4th J.
    I have a 10 bed bunk room all to myself tonight at Albergue El Cantro in Villares de Orbigo.... it was so peaceful.
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  • Day 22 Villares de Orbigo to Astorga

    29 settembre 2024, Spagna ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Everything was Camino groove today. Walked slowly with Joe, Jerry and Jenny from dinner last night who have claimed me as one of their J team. Set out at 830 am after relexing night in my private dorm room and only 14km to cover today., Stopped regularly to sit in the sun as it was a cold morning. Passed through quaint villages, the path was winding and a bit of elevation is starting to return.
    The most amazing Oasis donation stop 7km out from Astorga where I had breakfast of all the local fruit, pastries, cheese, fresh juice, coffee.
    The lovable border collie soccer dog lived there. Sat in the sun and soaked it in.
    The entrance to Astorga didn't disappoint... and the cathedrals ! Omg
    Found an Irish Bar with pilgrims meal, a delicious Russian salad, and it was good to feed myself early..
    Astorga famous for puff pasties and chocolate, sampled them of course..that was dinner.
    My Aubergue hostel San Javier is near the Catedral and is a centuries old building, 3 levels, huge dorm room all single low beds.
    I caught up with Marda in the square eating croissant, lol
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