Day 18, Castrojeriz to Fromistra

I was a bit daunted by the length of today’s walk - it was supposed to be 25km but turned out to be 26 - nonetheless it was a joy. It began with a steep climb up
the Alto de Mostelares but we coped with our early morning workout and enjoyed the views at the top across the Meseta. (Our photos don’t capture the effort involved in the ascent). We were both hungry before we reached our first town (about 11km in) so we took an earlier break at a picnic stop and ate our yogurts, spreading out our nuts, seeds, fresh and dried fruit without the worry we feel when we try to eat our own (healthier) food at a cafe when we buy coffee. The view was sublime - we ate and marvelled at the cloud formations in front of us.
Everyday I’m struck by how varied the countryside is. Today we had bouts of bright sunshine with brilliant blue skies, and moments of muted light and Eric Ravillous-like landscapes. There was even a forest! We both wish we could draw or paint pretty much every day.
Coffee stops were enlivened by encounters with Camino friends - and Fiona was delighted to find a bowl of vegetable soup - a rare vegan treat!
We walked today for about 7 and a half hours, including 3 breaks, but there was never a moment when it felt too much. This might be because we are now so fit - but more likely because the majority of the walk was flat and the weather, once more, was blessedly cool.
I’m hugely grateful my feet are holding up though I remain paranoid and change into a very attractive pair of Jesus sandals with socks in the course of every walk.
The approach to Fromista where we’re staying tonight ran by the side of a canal, built in the 18th century to facilitate the transportation of grain from this region. It added a last touch of variety to the final kilometres.
There’s a church here built in 1066 - I found it’s simplicity rather beautiful and loved the carvings on the capitals.
Dinner tonight was with our Canadian friends, Sheryl and Janice who only have two days walking left. They hope to return to complete the Camino another year.
One last thought. Tonight we caught a glimpse of a rare sight on our Camino travels - children. I’ve been missing them. Fromista is a proper town where families live but I’ve been fretting about the absence of children in the little medieval villages we’ve passed through in the last two and a half weeks. Seems sad to me.Read more