Day 29, Rabanal to Riego de Ambos

I didn’t sleep as long as I would have liked last night - I didn’t get to sleep until past midnight, partly because of noise in the dormitory and partly just me. Nonetheless I woke early and was up by 6am. We had a slow start and left Rabanal a bit later than usual - it was nearly 8 before we hit the road. We began the day, unusually, with a leisurely breakfast. The English volunteers at the Confraternity hostel provided tea with bread and marmalade in the kitchen and I loved it! I have been missing breakfast.
The day began with a 7.5km climb to Cruz de Ferro (elevation of 1490m) the site where modern pilgrims place stones. Fiona had brought one from home and placed it at the foot of the iron cross and I think it was significant for her. Lots of other people seemed to be there just for the photo opportunity and I found this place less moving than other people I’d spoken to had suggested.
As we started to walk downhill the sky cleared and we enjoyed the first wonderful views of a day that delivered hour upon hour of beauty. It was so refreshing to be back in the grandeur of the mountains surrounded by heather, birdsong and trees.
The walking was pretty hard though. The long descent to Riego, where we are staying tonight, was tough going - we were walking on a mixture of bedrock, shake and dirt tracks. I was very grateful that we were doing it in dry weather (despite some threatening clouds) because I wouldn’t fancy it in slippery conditions.
Eventually we arrived at the tiny village, still in the mountains (elevation 929, population 40) where we are sleeping tonight. We’re staying in a family enterprise which provides beds and the only bar or restaurant in the village. After a wonderful nap (didn’t want to wake up) we went for a little walk, picked more cherries and then settled for dinner on their terrace. The young man who looked after us clearly thought we were bonkers to want to sit outside but we insisted and held our nerve through a curious light shower which was accompanied by warm evening sunlight. We ate salad, padron peppers, bread and a plate of goat’s cheese, the usual (v nice) hard sheep’s cheese and walnuts washed down with red wine. It was delicious.
We are now planning an early night.Читать далее