Day 38, Gonzar to Ponte Compana

I was really happy to be on the road again this morning at 7am on a bright but chilly day. I sent a lot of the heavier items from my rucksack on ahead in the hope that carrying a lighter bag would ease the pressure on my ankle. Armed with ibuprofen, Fiona and I set off with Anna in pretty perfect walking conditions. Our first stop was at a neglected but very intriguing archeological site at Castromaijor - the site of human habitation from the 4th century BC until the early Roman period. Only a small area appears to have been excavated and there was little explanation but it appeared that we were looking at homes and streets from almost 2 and a half thousand years ago.
This was a day of gentle landscapes and happy livestock. We passed cattle calmly grazing and then I found myself fascinated to see them feeding as we passed through a village. We saw places where sheep could graze so safely that they appeared to be slumbering though the morning.
Fiona went off in search of a Romanesque church which the guidebook warned was not always open, offering the advice that you should call Jesus first (number provided) to check whether you could get in. I knew for sure that an extra 4kms would not work for me so we split at this point. (Despite encouraging signage, unfortunately Fiona found the church closed).
We met again in Palas de Rei, a reasonable sized town, where Anna managed to buy new underwear having mislaid hers a couple of days ago. Fiona and I stopped for a lovely cheese sandwich and then set off again for the final 5 kms.
Before reaching our destination we stopped at a little artisan shop where we both bought Camino shell earrings. This was hardly the renunciation of worldly goods we thought we’d learned on the Camino - but I have always been sceptical of my ability to give up buying stuff once the opportunity arises again. The huge disincentive on the Camino is the added weight any new purchases would involve - who’s to say abstinence from material goods will have the same attraction when you no longer have to carry them on your back every day.
Our accommodation tonight is lovely. It seems to be a former mill and is surrounded by water. Our room is charming with a multitude of hefty beams crisscrossing the ceiling and the whole site is beautifully presented.
Dinner was also lovely. The vegetarian option was simple but really tasty and much appreciated. We spoke to two Australians (Rose and ?), an Italian vegetarian called Sylvia, Kim from California and Catherine from Montpellier.
All in all, it’s been a lovely day. However, tonight I am worried about the ankle which is pretty sore. I walked 24.5kms today which in retrospect was too far. Tomorrow is just over 20kms - I will do the first 10 and then consider a taxi. I do wish I wasn’t finishing like this.Read more