Smeerburg Glacier in Bjornfjordur

In the afternoon, Seabourn Venture sailed to the far end of the fjord and into a heavily glaciated and sea-washed wonderland. The scene: ancient granite bedrock beneath tumbling, rumbling, crumbling glaciers, sliced, as if by a manic troll's axe, into crevasses and towering ridges of broken séracs, aiguilles of ice poised above the sea. The colours expressed in the ice are reflected light. As snow is compressed in the heart of glaciers, the air is forced out, and gradually, the snowflakes are turned into ice that reflects light from the blue/violet end of the spectrum: ultramarine, turquoise and sapphire.

In Smeerenburgfjorden, melting glaciers coloured the water with reflected light from suspended minerals. Re-frozen, pure water ice from the glacier's base pirouetted in the tide and sparkled like a gigantic cut diamond reflecting light in every direction. The scalloped surfaces of rolled icebergs showed the petticoats of past positions, revealing that a constant flow of water had washed the ice back and forth before the centre of gravity altered and it had pivoted to turn upside down.

Two rock arms had cradled the waves between them, channelled them and raised their crests to carve out the glacier's base, creating a deep cave. This brought to mind a tunnel into the underworld, like something from Viking Mythology: Niflheim, the cold, dark, misty region to the north where the world was created.

This incredible rock and icescape held guests' view and fired their imaginations until it was time to return to their ten-deck tower of comfort and care to reflect on an amazing afternoon close to nature, raw and uncompromised.

As John Muir knew from his time outdoors, "As long as I live, I'll hear waterfalls and birds and winds sing. I'll interpret the rocks, learn the language of flood, storm and the avalanche. I'll acquaint myself with the glaciers and wild gardens and get as near the heart of the world as I can."

Text and photos by Robert EgelstaffRead more