Through the valleys to Nagoya

Turns out that having a hotel next to the train tracks is not a great idea. Lots of freight trains pass through Toyama during the night (no , I didn’t take photos). After a restless night it’s another early start for the 0758 Hida Limited Express to Hida-Takayama. The benefit of a JR Pass is being able to reserve seats online and, having watched the comings and goings at Toyama for half hour, I take my seat for the 90 minute trip. Toyama is on a flat plain half surrounded by mountains. Yesterday they were invisible but today they are on view. As the journey continues the line is in deeper, narrower valleys with often only a river for company and from time to time cuts through tunnels.

Tateyama is a cute old town with lots of temples nearby and old buildings. I grab a map from the tourist info office and walk around finding a temple, an outdoor market - tempting food on offer but it’s barely past breakfast - and the old town streets.

Arriving back at the station there’s a delay as a train has struck an animal. The train rolls in about 20 minutes late and heads to my next stop Gero, known for its Onsens (hot springs) but these are mostly out of the town centre. There is a spring that bubbles up right by the main river so I dip my feet in; it is very hot indeed! A walk around town shows it is very quiet with only a few tourists. I trek uphill some distance to see a temple recommended in the guide books with a good view over the town. Grab some snacks and head back to the station.

Last train of the day is another Hida LEX to Nagoya. The route continues through valleys crisscrossing the river until Gifu where the valleys end and the land is flatter across to the sea. Nagoya is Japan’s fourth largest city and largest station in the country. It is enormous and full to bursting with crowds. My hotel is a few minutes away. A quick dinnner (yakitori chicken and rice) and it is time for an early night.Read more