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Mountains and Islands Japan
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Mountains and Islands Japan

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    Work Less Travel MoreMountains and Islands JapanTraveler

    Homeward bound

    June 18 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    And 9 days of hectic travelling are done. My hotel is at the airport so alarm set for 6.30 and through security and in the lounge by 7.05.

    Interesting news on board - because of all the restrictions over the Middle East and Ukraine we are going eastwards over Alaska and Greenland rather than the usual route west. Maybe I’ll see the Arctic for the first time.Read more

  • Work Less Travel MoreMountains and Islands JapanTraveler

    Matsuyama and back to Tokyo

    Jun 17–18 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    My flight is 1145 so I just have time for a quick visit to take a photo of Dogo Onsen, a public hot spring bath, said to be the oldest in Japan although the current building dates back to the 1890s. It is also said to be the inspiration for the bathhouse in the film Spirited Away which was more the reason for my visit. Its looks suitably old and Japanese. The Iyotetsu tram takes me there and back to grab my bag and head to the airport. My rail pass has expired now so it’s quicker and cheaper to fly than take the train (7 hours) back to Tokyo.

    The “train” in the picture below is actually a tram made up to look like a loco. It is called the Botchan train and relates to a book based in the Matsuyama area. It only runs at weekends and is apparently wildly popular.

    I hadn’t intended to write about the flight but its route and the clear weather meant I got a great birds eye view of the whole of Shikoku and the peak of Mount Fuji above the clouds.    Read more

  • Work Less Travel MoreMountains and Islands JapanTraveler

    Shikoku

    Jun 16–17 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Today I set out to travel round the western part of Shikoku, a large island in the Seto Inland Sea connected to the mainland by rail, bridges and ferries I’ve never been here before and this is going to be a whistle stop tour. Timing is everything as the key train connection I need to make is only every 3 hours.

    The Shimanto LEX takes me from Takamatsu to Kochi (Shikoku) via the interior of the island including the picturesque Oboke Gorge. Similar to previous days, once away from the urban area the train starts climbing into the hills and then dives through some lengthy tunnels emerging in a deep valley with the river alongside. There are some small station halts here clinging onto the side of the hill and nearly every village has a station served a few times a day but not by this train. Once past Oboke the train starts to descend again towards Kochi.

    At Kochi I have an hour or so before the next train and grab an early lunch at a bakery chain called little Mermaid. Some snacks too; a lychee soda must be worth a try, right? It is time for the 1149 Dosan Line Ashizuri Limited Express to Kubokawa. On time of course.

    At Kubokawa by chance - yes really- the Tosa Toki no Yoake no Monogatari, a sightseeing train with dining on board is waiting for its return trip. That’s the white one in the photos.

    I’m changing onto the Yodo line, a rural line that runs 3 or 4 times a day cutting across from the south side of Shikoku to the west side at Uwajima. It’s a single yellow car but at weekends an open sided vehicle is attached for tourists. The line follows the Shimanto-gawa River which has two notable features (1) it is uninterrupted by dams and therefore said to be the last clear-flowing stream in Japan and (2) there are chinkabashi, or low water crossings, spanning the river at regular intervals. The bridges' distinguishing feature is a lack of guardrails to prevent them from being washed away in a flood. I manage to get a photo of a couple.

    The Yodo line is barely troubled by passengers on my trip. 5 in total during a 2 and a half hour journey until the last 20 minutes when a large group of school kids board. The cost to keep it running with dozens of bridges and tunnels must be substantial. One last train takes me the final 90 minutes onto Matsuyama; a marathon journey over.

    Dinner is karage fried chicken and rice washed down with some local sake. Actually I should call it Nihonshu as sake is the generic name for alcohol too.    Read more

  • Work Less Travel MoreMountains and Islands JapanTraveler
    Himeji Castle
    Hello Kitty train en route to KyotoShinkansen Hikari - Shin-Osaka to HimejiHimeji Castle towers

    Himeji and Takamatsu

    June 15 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Himeji Castle is said to be the finest example of Japanese castle architecture. It’s less than an hour from Osaka on the Shinkansen and nicely on the way to my next overnight. Leaving the bag in a locker at the station (almost every station has lockers) O step outside and can immediately see the castle. But it’s a wee way away and there’s a bus waiting so that’s the choice made. I’ve never seen a castle like it. The white walls of the keep, repainted a few years ago, sit on huge blocks of stone. It’s a steep walk up to the entrance to the keep and there are 8 flights of steps up to the top of the keep. The steps and floors are all wood so shoes are removed at the bottom and carried to the top and back down. Fab views of the city.

    There’s a formal Japanese garden next door so a quick visit is made then it’s back to the station for another Shinkansen onto Okayama and then the Marine Liner LEX to Takamatsu. There’s one double deck car but unfortunately the upper deck is for first class ticket holders only. Nevertheless I have a fine view of the Seto Inland Sea going over the bridge to the Island of Shikoku.

    An hour of cooling down at the hotel and then I have time to visit another garden - Ritsurin - which is just a few minutes on the local train. The garden is formally laid out with paths and lakes and trees dating back to 1745 and is one of the largest in the country.

    Dinner and sleep!    Read more

  • Work Less Travel MoreMountains and Islands JapanTraveler
    Deer in search of food
    Nara Park train at NaraBowls and more bowlsDinner !!

    A day in Osaka

    Jun 14–16 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    A bit of a well deserved lie in this morning (8am). Off to Nara, east of central Osaka, known for its temples and tame deer. The train has a deer livery and the grab handles are in the shape of deer heads. The weather forecast is ominous and sure enough as I walk to the first temple I get completely drenched. Then the rain stops and it’s more humid than before. The deer are supposed to live in the park but they walk up and down the main road from the station looking for food (which street sellers helpfully have available for purchase). There are hundreds of them and are considered envoys of the gods so can roam freely. They are not at all aggressive but will nip gently if they think food is hidden in pockets or bags.

    I head for the largest temple Todai-Ji whilst the rain hammers down. It pauses as I get to the temple which contains a giant bronze Buddha; the largest in the world at 16m and dating to 751AD.

    I walk around a circuit of a few more temples and ornamental lakes gradually making my way back to the Kintetsu-Nara station. Time for a bit of shopping inside away from the weather looking for leaf tea for Emz. The first shop is sold out the second one is closed and the third one I am successful. Might have picked up a present for myself too; a model of one of the trains I travelled on earlier in the week.

    Osaka is incredibly busy. It is a Saturday so there are people everywhere and the choice of shops is endless. By chance I walk down ‘kitchen street’. Dozens of shops with a Sat array of kitchen knives, crockery and cooking equipment. Alison and Emz would be here all day.

    It’s time for dinner and I spot a Tonkatsu (breaded pork) restaurant at the department store. Absolutely delicious and just what I needed.    Read more

  • Work Less Travel MoreMountains and Islands JapanTraveler

    Through the valleys to Nagoya

    June 12 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Turns out that having a hotel next to the train tracks is not a great idea. Lots of freight trains pass through Toyama during the night (no , I didn’t take photos). After a restless night it’s another early start for the 0758 Hida Limited Express to Hida-Takayama. The benefit of a JR Pass is being able to reserve seats online and, having watched the comings and goings at Toyama for half hour, I take my seat for the 90 minute trip. Toyama is on a flat plain half surrounded by mountains. Yesterday they were invisible but today they are on view. As the journey continues the line is in deeper, narrower valleys with often only a river for company and from time to time cuts through tunnels.

    Tateyama is a cute old town with lots of temples nearby and old buildings. I grab a map from the tourist info office and walk around finding a temple, an outdoor market - tempting food on offer but it’s barely past breakfast - and the old town streets.

    Arriving back at the station there’s a delay as a train has struck an animal. The train rolls in about 20 minutes late and heads to my next stop Gero, known for its Onsens (hot springs) but these are mostly out of the town centre. There is a spring that bubbles up right by the main river so I dip my feet in; it is very hot indeed! A walk around town shows it is very quiet with only a few tourists. I trek uphill some distance to see a temple recommended in the guide books with a good view over the town. Grab some snacks and head back to the station.

    Last train of the day is another Hida LEX to Nagoya. The route continues through valleys crisscrossing the river until Gifu where the valleys end and the land is flatter across to the sea. Nagoya is Japan’s fourth largest city and largest station in the country. It is enormous and full to bursting with crowds. My hotel is a few minutes away. A quick dinnner (yakitori chicken and rice) and it is time for an early night.    Read more

  • Work Less Travel MoreMountains and Islands JapanTraveler

    Toyama

    June 11 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    A bit of a cheat since this is the same day as the previous footprint but I ran out of photo space. Arriving at Dentetsu Toyama station I collected my luggage (what a great service) and checked in to my hotel nearby. The room is tiny but overlooks the Shinkansen track so not all bad .. unless it’s noisy tonight.

    Time for a quick walk round town. To the river where in April the cherry blossom is in full bloom and boat trips float up and down, to the castle and grounds, the Glass Museum which looked interesting but was a big building with a limited collection. And then a tram ride to the maritime district of Iwase with its streets of old wooden maritime buildings. The smell of old wood is strong.

    Finally dinner - delicious ramen and Gyoza and I won’t say no to a bottle of sake either.    Read more

  • Work Less Travel MoreMountains and Islands JapanTraveler

    Tateyama Kurobe Mountain Route

    Jun 11–12 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    The mountain route uses a range of different transport to take tourists from Ogizawa to Toyama via Mount Tateyama reaching 2350m.

    First step is to drop off my bag for it to be transported to the end of the route. Then a 40 minute trip on the bus from Shinano-Omachi to Ogizawa. Here I pick up my ticket ordered on line a few months ago. It is pouring with rain and the mountains are covered in mist again. May be a gloomy and wet day.

    At Ogizawa an electric trolleybus runs in a 5km tunnel carved through the mountain. There are lots of people so 3 buses run in convoy for about 20 minutes pausing to let a similar convoy go the other way. On arrival at Kurobe Dam everybody has to walk across the dam admiring the views en route (or that would be the case except for the rain and mist). I can already see snow on the slopes above.

    Next transport is a cable car - funicular to us - further up followed by a ropeway (cable car). The mist has really drawn in now. There’s still a way to go before the top at Murodo which is reached by another electric tunnel bus.

    At Murodo there is an alpine walk but the snow underfoot and the rain makes that both perilous and wet so I make do with a walk to the famous snow wall. The snow covers the ground and roads here to a depth of 20+ metres in winter and in April the road is uncovered by tractors leaving a 15-20 metre wall of snow either side. It is at its best in April but still an impressive 13m today.

    Time for a steamed pork bun to assist with the drying out then a bus (just a bus) heading down the other side to Tateyama dropping nearly 1500m in height. Another cable car then a heritage train makes the eventual trip to Toyama.    Read more

  • Work Less Travel MoreMountains and Islands JapanTraveler

    To the mountains

    June 10 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Landed at Haneda dead on time and through customs and immigration in a few minutes. First I have to collect my Japan Rail Pass. I feared a long queue which may have put my schedule at risk but there is no queue .. at all.

    I’d allowed an hour to get sorted so I’m ahead of plan and some replanning is needed. There is a direct train that would take me most of the way to my destination but where’s the fun in that.

    So the journey is:
    Monorail to Hamamatsucho
    Keihin line to Tokyo station
    Horuriku Shinkansen to Ueda
    Shinano railway local train to Nagano
    Shinonoi limited express (LEX) to Matsumoto which rapidly climbs into the hills with great views and then descends into the next valley.
    And finally another local track on the Oito line to Shinano-Omachi.
    Phew!

    Shinano-Omachi is in a wide valley surrounded by hills and mountains. And is the starting point for the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine route, a popular tourist trail (I should add - using transport not walking). The mountains, where I am headed tomorrow, are shrouded in rain and mist.

    Time for dinner and a long sleep.    Read more

  • Trip start
    June 10, 2025
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