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Pat's Cycle Tour - 2017
  • Patrick Leary
  • Patrick Leary

Pat's Cycle Tour - 2017

A 38-day adventure by Patrick Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 8, 2017
  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    The Night Watch ( Impressively huge at 3.6m x 4.2m) - Rembrandt van RijnBike Park - multilevel at Amsterdam Central station1Heineken Museum

    Amsterdam (NL)

    July 9, 2017 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Arrived at Schipol airport, unboxed my bike, loaded my gear and pedaled the 15 km into the city. Very fortunate to be hosted by friends from South Africa in an apartment close to the city center.

    Amsterdam is considered the most bicycle friendly city of the world. Bicycles by far outnumber the cars in the city. No Peter Sagan wannabes in flashy lycra, with top of the range carbon bikes around here, and also no helmets.

    Got my cultural fix and visited the Rijksmuseum. One of the sixty museums in Amsterdam, and ended the day, at the other end of the spectrum, the Heineken Museum.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    11GPX

    Zaanse Sanchs (NL)

    July 10, 2017 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The Zaanse Schans is a residential area in which the 18th and 19th centuries are brought to life. It is a little hamlet, really just for tourists. My timing was perfect, as I was leaving all the tour buses began arriving.

    Leaving Zaanse Schans I battled a bit with my navigation. Lesson #1: don't always believe directions given by a local. Finally found my way and began heading towards the coast, and the North Sea.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    Waiting for a FerryFirst glimpse of the North Sea

    Hoek van Holland (NL)

    July 10, 2017 in the Netherlands ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The next stop after Zaanse Sachs was Zandvoort. First glimpse of the North Sea. The coastal section was quite pleasant until the wind picked up later in the afternoon, direct headwind but fortunately only for the last 30 km.

    Went through The Hague and then settled down into a campsite at Hoek van Holland. The ride was slightly longer than I had planned at 136km.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    Rotterdam
    Pont CrossingGPX

    Gorinchem (NL)

    July 11, 2017 in the Netherlands ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    Left Hoek van Holland with a glorious tailwind. Happiness !! At some stage during a serious downpour, I think I passed through Rotterdam (world's third biggest sea port).

    The route took me through Kinderdijk, known for its iconic 18th-century windmills. Its water-management network features 19 mills, plus dikes and reservoirs that control flooding in the polder (low-lying land).

    Lost count of how many ferries I used today to cross the numerous waterways.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    Cycle Path Train CrossingGPX

    Rhenen (NL)

    July 12, 2017 in the Netherlands ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    Woke up to rain. Checked the weather App and 99% chance of rain most of the day. Decision time. Bunker down all day and do nothing, or bite the bullet and get on with it.

    Back on the bike. Stopping once on the bike was not an option. At 13 deg and wet you just get to cold.

    Did my deed of the day and stopped to help two kids stuck with a puncture in the middle of nowhere. The younger was just 7 yrs old.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    Yet another ferry !Found a nifty device to pump tyres. Pity it's a bit bulky to carry on the bikeGPX

    Wesel (DE)

    July 13, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Along the cycle paths they have what look like windsocks, only larger and made of netting. As you cycle along you lob your trash into the net !

    Rode over a hill today, must be out of the Netherlands now.

    This area is heavily populated, and with all the towns it is slow going. All the wind turbines that dot the countryside were stationery, which if you are cycling is a good thing.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    Cologne 70 years agoCologne 79 years agoCologne CathedralCologne CathedralCologne Cathedral

    Cologne (DE)

    July 14, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Not all green pastures, and tranquil meadows. This northern section of the Rhine is also known as the Industrial Ruins. Slow going and without a GPS it would be even worse.

    Rode through Duisburg (couldn't help myself and stopped at a Starbucks for a cappuccino) also Europe's largest inland port, then to Dusseldorf (the Tour de France started here 2 weeks ago), then to Cologne (one of the oldest cities in Germany.

    The biggest landmark in Cologne is the gothic style Cologne Cathedral completed in 1880 and took 632 years to build !    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    Remnants of the last bridge that was still intact during WWIIOld crane erected in 1559 and remained in use till 1911 for loading millstones on to the bargesCampsite packed with touring cyclistsGPX

    Koblenz (DE)

    July 15, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Approaching now the more scenic part of the Rhine.

    When its a long day, to pass the time it's fun to chase the eBikes till their batteries go flat, then pass them. Once done with the eBikes, then start pacing yourself against the barges heading upstream along the Rhine (barges are slower).

    Passed the remnants of the last bridge that was still intact during the 2nd World War. The USA troops used this bridge to cross into Germany. Hitler had four of his officers executed as he believed that it was sabotage that they had not blown it up.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    The start of of the vineyardsSunday afternoon on the "beach" on the RhineGPX

    Mainz (DE)

    July 16, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today was the start of the Middle Rhine, the picturesque section with medieval castles. This section has no fewer than 50 castles, and is also know as the Romantic Rhine. All the castles and fortresses are proof that this section of the Rhine was an important trading route during the Middle Ages.

    Lining the Rhine from the Netherlands to Switzerland are nine UNESCO World Heritage sites.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    Main Course, and DesertGPX

    Speyer (DE)

    July 17, 2017 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Not much happening on the route toady. Still a few barges carrying cargo but not nearly as many on the lower section of the Rhine. You can see now why the Rhine is considered Germany's economic transport vein, and one of the world's busiest waterways.

    The route largely runs through nature-reserves and wine-growing regions. Some of the best Riesling wines are produced in this region.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    About 5km before Strasbourg I passed a stream, could not help myself and stopped for a dip.

    Strasbourg (FR)

    July 18, 2017 in France ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Big day today with 140 km. So far nine days on the bike and 1,088 km clocked.

    The past two days have been sweltering with today reaching 36 °C. Doesn't help much starting early as you still on the bike in the midday heat. I knew my "Rehydrate" would come in handy at some stage.

    Found a bike shop on route to carry out some much needed repairs which cost me about two hours.

    Somewhere today I crossed the border into France.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    1
    11GPX

    Basel (CH)

    July 20, 2017 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The start of today's route followed a wooded canal cycle path almost dead straight for 50 km (144 km in total today). Somewhere on route I crossed another border, now in Switzerland.

    Basel - a drop of Germany, a pinch of France and a splash of Switzerland !

    Two new learnings today. Fun pastime is to take your kit, stuff it into a drybag, and then drift downstream using the bag for buoyancy for as far as want.

    The other, a non-motorised passenger ferry. The bow of the boat is attached to an aerial cable across the river. Pointing upstream steer across the river using the current as propulsion.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    1
    11GPX

    Flaach (CH)

    July 21, 2017 in Switzerland ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Some big mountains beginning to loom now on the horizon. Scary stuff ! Today was the first day with a few small climbs. Gravity sure slows you down when the combined weight of bike plus kit is 40 kg.

    The route today took me past one of Europe's most powerful and impressive waterfalls just downstream from Schaffhausen. Also had the privilege of some fresh snacks alongside the cycle path today, raspberries, apples, and plums.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    1

    Lake Constance (CH)

    July 22, 2017 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today's route followed mostly the shores of Lake Constance (Konstanz) which borders Austria, Germany, and Switzerland. Lake Constance, known as “the heart and soul of Europe". At some stage today I was back in Germany.

    Perfect weather and many families out on their bikes riding along the shores and stopping at all the recreational facilities on route.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary

    Vaduz (LI)

    July 23, 2017 in Liechtenstein ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Crossed a border yet again, this time into the small country of Liechtenstein. It has an area of just over 160 square kilometers, and an estimated population of 37,000.

    Very quite being a Sunday and was through the country in a flash.Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    111GPX

    Chur (CH)

    July 23, 2017 in Switzerland ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The majestic Alps beckon !!

    From Liechtenstein the gradient starts to go up as you head towards the source of the Rhine. Heading towards Chur the river passes through breathtaking ravines.

    Today is the day where I say goodbye to the Rhine, my friend off and on, for the past 1,477 km. The Rhine passes through six countries, and under three different names; Rhine, Rhein, Rijn.Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    11How heavy must these slate roofs be ?That dark patch in the middle is where I amGPX

    Splugen (CH)

    July 25, 2017 in Switzerland ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    Time to now cross the Alps.

    Yesterday I was caught in two storms before 10am and only made it halfway of my planned route. Called it a day and decided to find some place dry.

    Second attempt today not much better. Started out, but turned back after a few km. Freezing cold and raining. Opted out and caught a bus for the last section (20 km), with the bike hanging precautiously on a rack at the rear of the bus.Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    Leaving Splugen
    Sixteen SwitchbacksSummit and passing into Italy1GPX

    Splugenpass (Alps)

    July 26, 2017 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    The lower section of the pass leaving the town of Splugen had five switchbacks. The upper section had sixteen switchbacks !

    At the summit of the pass was again another border, this time crossing into Italy. On the Italian side of the pass is Montespluga, a small village which is cut off from both Italy and Switzerland during the winter.

    Going up was one thing, but the decent going down was hair-raising. Going to need need new brake pads after today.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary

    Lake Como (IT)

    July 26, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Once down the pass it was time to head towards Lake Como. My route followed the eastern shoreline.

    This area really is picturesque. Towering mountains on the one side, and stunning villages hugging the shoreline on the other. Took my time along this section enjoying the scenery.Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    12Milan Cathedral took 600 years to completeGPX

    Milan (IT)

    July 27, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Leaving Lake Como and Lecco, I eventually found a path (away from the traffic) alongside the river leading away from the lake. Along the river were a number of small hydro electric plants and locks to control the flow.

    Getting closer to Milano I was able to follow a canal that guided me into the city. With 10km to go I then resorted to the trusty GPS to guide me into the city.

    More bike repairs in order and the trusty stead is spending the evening at a friendly bike shop. Will be collecting the stead tomorrow evening ready for the next leg.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary

    Milan (IT)

    July 28, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    The city has long been named Fashion Capital of the World. Today was a day for exploring, on foot, and a bit of Metro.

    The Milan cathedral is the 3rd largest in the world, and took nearly 600 years to build. That's just mind boggling !!

    Accommodation was a B&B with a view of onto one of the main fashion streets. Free entertainment from the small balcony watching all the hustle and bustle in the street below, and in the evening some musicians added to the entertainment.    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    GPX

    Fidenza (IT)

    July 29, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Left Milan fairly early to miss the traffic. Good to be back on the bike again. A solid 150 km today. Again another 36 °C day at least the route was very flat.

    Cycle touring tip: Most towns are like ghost towns most of the day, and if you need water, look out for the church spire, then the church, then the graveyard. There is a tap in every cemetery.

    50 km out of Milan I joined up with the "Via Francigena" route (The Via Francigena is the common name of an ancient pilgrim route running from France to Rome, though it is usually considered to have its starting point further away, in the English cathedral city of Canterbury)    Read more

  • Patrick LearyPat's Cycle Tour - 2017Patrick Leary
    1GPX

    Filattiera (IT)

    July 30, 2017 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Big change today, from the flat farmlands of yesterday, where the only action seemed to be the farmers working their lands. Heading back towards the coast now.

    Today was another mountain pass, the Passo della Cisa (1600m of climbing). Amazing scenery and views from the summit. Not many cars but loads of motorbikes racing up the pass.Read more

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