• Hungary: Heviz

      18. september 2023, Ungarn ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Heviz: a small little town near the edge of Lake Balaton (the largest inland lake in central Europe). It was just a quick stopover so as to break up the driving on our way to Slovenia, so no photos were taken here. The only thing of note was that we finally met a friendly Hungarian at our Airbnb (although he might've been friendly, but their dog certainly wasn't with it had strong house guarding tendencies 😂). The only other thing to note here was that Emma thrashed me in Scrabble.😢 She did have the perfect storm in getting the Z, the Q, the J, 3 S's and both blanks though, but still, a thrashing nonetheless.😔 That means Emz has now won the last 3 games and I'm worried what the future holds for me against her in Scrabble.😔Les mer

    • Hungary: Budapest

      16. september 2023, Ungarn ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

      So after Slovakia, we headed for Budapest, Hungary. Emz might be sick of me using the country's name as a pun and jokingly saying,'Emz, are you Hungary?' I still don't think the joke gets old.😂 Anyways, Budapest! Probably one of the most beautiful cities (certainly large cities) that I've seen in Europe! Really picturesque! I didn't realise that Budapest is actually 2 cities (Buda and Pest) that are separated by the Danube River (one of the largest rivers in Europe). They're basically one large city now, but it was interesting to note. Buda is on the far more hilly side whereas Pest is on the flat plain next to the Danube, so running in Buda felt like running in Simons Town where everywhere you go is up! The first day we visited something that is truly a historic legacy. It is a stretch of railway that is run by CHILDREN aged 10-14 years old! It was a programme started by the Soviets in the 1950s apparently to try to get children more interested in the railway so that they might eventually start working in this field. That's the official reason anyway. To me, it sounded more like child labour and just a way to get more people to work! Anyways, I think now it is a prestigious thing for the kids to do and the train line is still running today! The kids do everything! They take your money, issue tickets, check the tickets, do the accounting and do the signalling on the train! This train runs 7 days a week so apparently only the academically strongest child applicants are accepted to do the work as they have to miss school for short periods during the week to do their transportation duties. What was also really cool was we were on the steam train line which added to the experience to be going on something so historic.
      That evening we walked down to the Fisherman's Bastion which gives great views of the city from the Buda side and it really was beautiful!
      The next day we went to a public bath house which Budapest is famous for! These large bath houses I'd honestly thought were a thing of the past but in Budapest, they're still thriving! A ticket to the bath house gives you access to these large outside pools as well as many smaller indoor pools plus saunas and steam baths, all at varying temperatures. It really was a must visit! We spent a couple hours there until all our fingers and toes looked like my late Nanna Molly's digits.🙈 After this, we walked around the Pest side of the city. This side was also really pretty with many street lined cafes and bars, old tram lines and we also went and saw the largest synagogue in Europe. One would think we finally saw something positive w.r.t. the European Jewish community's plight during WW2, but - even though the synagogue made it through the war- it was at this synagogue that the dead (from starvation) Jewish people of the ghetto were found when Budapest was liberated by the Soviets. Sadly most bodies were not even recognisable by the end of the war as the Jewish community were not allowed to bury the dead.
      That evening we then went and watched the Bokke thrash Romania and then went and had goulash for supper, a typical Hungarian meal. The food was okay, but nothing exceptional. Overall a great city though, but we would say the people in general were some of the unfriendliest we've met on our travels.
      Les mer

    • Slovakia: Spis

      13. september 2023, Slovakia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

      Slovakia, the land of castles! It was just a quick 2 night stay in this smallish country, but what's fascinating about Slovakia is this little country has more castles per capita than any other country in the world! So the first day we spent exploring one of the better known castle ruins by the name of Spis Castle, which is a massive castle on a very dramatic hillside in the more eastern part of the country. In fact, it is one of the largest castles in Europe and was built in the 12th century (so almost 900 years ago!). The next day we were due to do some more exploring, but the weather was - for the first time in a while - miserable. So we ended up having a catch up day at the hostel instead. That evening, we went to a local restaurant to try some Slovakian food. Once again the starters were delicious with a homemade duck pâté that Emz and I shared. For mains, I had essentially a pork roast and Emz had some Slovakian potato dumplings. Both meals were delicious! The next day we visited another castle ruin by the name of Sasov castle on our way to Hungary. A far smaller 14th century castle but still quite impressive for how it was built on this steep hill on the edge of a cliff face. They'd also dug a tunnel into the mountain where they used to place large blocks of ice cut out from the river below to use as a sort of rustic fridge which was also interesting to note. Overall, Slovakia was a brief visit. The country is probably a little more run down that some of the other Eastern European countries, but interesting all the same!Les mer

    • A smoked sheeps cheese which is a delicacy of the regionThe town was littered with stores that looked like a factory in China had just vomited on them!

      Poland: Zakopane

      12. september 2023, Polen ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      So after a good victory by the Bokke, it was time to leave Krakow (with only a mild kopseer🤕) and head further south in Poland to their ski resort town called Zakopane. So yep, skiing in Winter, and HIKING in Summer.😁 Now we were warned that this town is the holiday centre of Polish tourism and that it can be quite busy, but we weren't prepared for just how busy it was to be! The town was heaving! Absolutely packed and on a Monday! We had been recommended to go on a hike to an alpine lake in the Tatra mountains called Morskie oko, but we were advised to leave at 4:30am (!😳) in the morning to avoid the crowds on the trail. Emz and myself decided we'd seen some really nice lakes in Scandinavia and it seemed unnecessary to go and elbow our way through hundreds of other tourists to see something similar. So we found our own trail in the mountains which was just as nice to us and had far fewer people. ☺️Les mer

    • Trying local Polish cherry schnapps!

      Poland: COME ON BOKKE!!😁🥳🇿🇦

      10. september 2023, Polen ⋅ 🌙 19 °C

      After a depressing morning at Auschwitz, our mood was thankfully improved when we went to watch the Springboks play at an Irish pub in Krakow. The pub was packed with almost exclusively SA expats! We ended up having such a lekker jol after meeting Christi and Piotr, 2 fellow Saffas who are currently living in Krakow. We might've won the rugby, but our heads the next day certainly felt like they were on the losing side. Come on Bokke!!!😁🇿🇦🇿🇦🇿🇦Les mer

    • The sadistic, taunting entrance to Auschwitz 1
      The train track that took over 1 million people to their deathsEntrance to one of the blocksUsed Zyklon B cannisters from the gas chambersShoes of the deceasedSuitcases of the deceasedFiring squad wall

      Poland: Auschwitz

      10. september 2023, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      This is probably one of the most sobering places that anyone could ever wish to go to. I've read many nonfiction and fiction books on this place as I've always tried to understand how human beings could do such things to one another. I think- since leaving here- I've been left with more questions than answers. It's an absolutely mortifying place. One would expect it to be so, but it was even more so than I imagined. The only way in which it is 'interesting', is to see how carefully the sadistic Nazis planned this, the macabre systems put in place to murder people on an en masse basis and the lengths they went to to hide their crimes. Everything was planned for from the start for their Final Solution to the 'Jewish Problem'. For example, all the death camps were built in Poland and not Germany for fear of reprisal from the German civilian population if they ever found out. Poland was also selected as it had the largest Jewish community in Europe at the time (over 3mil Jewish people). They chose Oswiecim (the town in Poland germanised to 'Auschwitz') for its excellent train transport links to the whole of Europe. They cleared a 10km radius around the camps so no one would know what was going on ie the only people intended to leave the camp were the SS officers. The list goes on. As tragic as this place is, I do think it is almost a place that everyone should visit. Empathy, integrity and respect were completely lacking in this place and visiting this foul place reinforces the fact that EVERYONE is deserving of these attributes. Sorry, some of the images are sadly quite disturbing, but people need to understand the horror of this place so as not to forget one of the worst events of history.Les mer

    • Poland: Krakow city and Jewish quarter

      8. september 2023, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      The next couple of days were spent exploring the city itself and the Jewish quarter. The old town was similar to many European cities with a massive square, horse drawn carriages and quaint buildings along cobbled streets. This was by the most touristy place we had been to though in a long while and it took some adjusting to the crowds of Krakow. But there's a reason it's touristy! Krakow is a renowned party city (hence the crowds) and I guess if you can't beat 'em, join 'em!😁 So we did go to one of the famous underground clubs on the 1st night to squeak a bit of tekkie which was fun!🥳On the 2nd day, we went to what once was a large Jewish quarter. Sadly, this community was decimated during WW2 and has never recovered. The Nazis had also set up a Jewish ghetto between 1941-1943 prior to sending the Jews to extermination camps and there is still a piece of this wall remaining. We then went to a photo gallery museum basically depicting what remains of the Jewish plight within Poland post WW2 which was very interesting but also quite a depressing sight to see. We never got a chance to go, but also in Krakow is Oskar Schindler's enamel factory where he saved 1200 Jewish lives at great risk to his own. He is one of if not the only member of the Nazi party to be honoured in Israel.Les mer

    • The Last Supper carved into the salt of the largest church
      Outside of the mineKing Casimir III The Great carved out of saltChandelier where the crystals are made of saltThe large church/cathedral carved into the salt undergroundAnother religious scene carved in the churchThe large caverns supported by the wooden beamsOne of the different types of saltA blue saltA dining hall carved into the salt for functions eg weddings!

      Poland: Krakow (Wieliczka Salt Mine)

      8. september 2023, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

      On our first day in Krakow, I decided to indulge in Emma's love for geology and mining and head with her to an underground salt mine at the edge of Krakow. Wait, maybe it's my love for geology and mining🤔...who knows🤷🏻‍♂️ but we went there anyway. So now a salt mine might not sound like many people's idea of a fun day out, but this is no ordinary salt mine! Well, if anything, this place feels like you've just walked onto a Lord of the Rings fantasy set and I was almost surprised to NOT see little dwarves running around with their mining tools. Blocks of salt have been excavated here since the 13th century that they've now dug out 200km of tunnels underground! It was also due to this salt mine that Poland was relatively wealthy in the middle ages due to salt being such a highly valuable commodity in those days. So much so, that the mine used to pay the miners in salt and that's how the word 'salary' came about. What is interesting about this place, is that the miners would spend really long periods underground. So because of this, they essentially built a 'town' underground! All carved into the salt! This included a chapel, a bar, a dining hall and even horses! They also supported all these cavernous halls and passageways with wood which was interesting as one would expect the wood to decay with time. But, seemingly counterintuitively, this is not the case! The salt acts as an antibacterial preventing decay and the wood actually gets stronger with salt and its dehydrating properties, meaning that some of the wood is 100s of years old! Iron/steel is not used at all as it'll just rust away, thus, even after the age of industrialisation, they continued to use just horses/ropes and counter balances to get the salt to the surface as machinery wouldn't last long in the mine. The mine closed about 15 years ago as it's now too expensive to mine salt vs the surface dehydration methods used these days. Still an unbelievable place and it's amazing what has been carved just out of salt!Les mer

    • Sundowners on the Vistula
      The town squareThe old town wellAs African a sunset as one can get!Emz enjoying her conversion to beer😉Steak tartare dish!!🤤🤤🤤Duck and veggie soupPork schnitzel and cucumber saladCabbage and quinoa like spring rollsTown in the evening.

      Poland: Kazimierz Dolny

      6. september 2023, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

      So this was another 'off the beaten track' recommendation and this one FINALLY paid off! This little medieval town, on the banks of the Vistula River - the river that snakes its way though the whole of Poland- charmed us in more ways than 1! By now we had seen many a medieval town, but this town now exposed us to the scintillating Polish cuisine! Once again, our expectations were not above the limbo stick but our supper in this little town ended up being one of our best suppers on the whole trip! Of particular delight was the 2 starters; a duck and vegetable soup with a hint of citrus and a steak tartare with egg yolk. Absolutely delicious!🤤 Emz's main was a vegetarian twist on a Polish dish (Golabki) where cabbage and quinoa were wrapped almost in like spring rolls and I had a more generic pork schnitzel with mash and a delicious cucumber salad which was also delicious despite its simplicity. We also had lovely sundowners on the bank of the Vistula and it honestly felt like it wouldn't be amiss if a hippo popped its head out of the water.😂 Another town to win us over to Poland as an excellent country to visit!Les mer

    • Beautiful umbrellas lining the cobbled street
      Emz posing by the city signEmz showing off Poland and her interview skillsTreating Emz to a Stewart family staple Sunday meal. Emz is firmly converted😁

      Poland: Bialystok

      5. september 2023, Polen ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

      Just a quick overnight stop and our first impressions of Poland were very different to what I was expecting! I had an image of Poland being just another cheap, run down Eastern European country. Well, yes, it is cheap, but quite the contrary otherwise! Poland has some incredible countryside from forests to farmlands and really had a SA feel to it (probably aided by the great weather we were experiencing here too!). The houses are all really well kept and the farms immaculate! On our way to this city, we passed again close to Belarus and went through parts of what remains of the oldest forest in Europe (The Bialowieza Forest). It was in this area that I saw an actual wild EURASIAN WOLF!!!!😁😁😁 Such a rare and lucky occurrence with almost no one I know being able to boast the same claim! It was however very fleeting (it ran across the road in front of me from 1 side of the forest to the other), so sadly Emz didn't get a chance to see it either.😔
      Bialystok was a nice, non touristy city with a small but nice old town and it was definitely worth staying the night. We were also shocked at how cheap everything was. Poland is by far the cheapest country we have stayed in up to this point. Things were definitely looking up in Poland!☺️
      Les mer

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