• Vickie Ludiker

Camino de Santiago

51-дневное приключение от Vickie Читать далее
  • Day 28. Bercianos to Mansilla de la Mula

    12 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    We had a good thunderstorm last evening and it cleared enough to get a picture of the sunset. I think we both slept very soundly. We got going about 0645 and caught a picture of the sunrise. It was about 45 degrees with a wind. I had everything on plus gloves for a while. Fortunately, we were able to shed gloves and jackets mid morning. It continued to stay overcast while we walked which we are grateful. I was afraid the Meseta would be very hot without shade, but we got lucky! By the time we reach Leon, we will be out of the Meseta!
    Today was a tough day for me mentally and physically. My foot continues to bother me and today I could not find the “sweet” spot to keep going. Most of the time I can take my mind off of it but today was tougher to do. Steve even got me to play a musical game where we would take turns humming or singing the lyrics to songs and the other one naming that tune. We quickly realized that we were bad at remembering lyrics and we sounded terrible…..but it did take my mind off of the pain for a while.
    Today we walked to Mansilla de La Mulas. Our room is gorgeous and apparently new. We even have a balcony to dry our clothes on. I feel like a local. No shame here! We hang it all out for everyone to see. Hahahah. We covered 17.8 miles (40768 steps) today. Tomorrow is only a 12 mile day to Leon! Grateful for the cloudy day, grateful for the picture I received today from our house sitter(Linda) of Sophie—I was just missing her and grateful to be able to relax a bit today
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  • Day 29. Mansilla to Leon

    13 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Had a great night’s sleep and we were off at 0700 this morning. My foot is somewhat better. I had a tightened tendon from my heel to behind my knee. Steve thought I might have a blood clot but no swelling of the leg or hot feeling noted. Once it got warmed up, I was feeling good. But when he wanted to stop for coffee, I felt I needed to keep walking so it wouldn’t get cold on me. I think that’s what happened to me yesterday…we stopped 4-5 times and it cooled off and it was just so painful getting going again. He stopped and I kept on. He is a faster walker and I knew he would catch up but after 45 minutes I hadn’t seen him. I had followed yellow arrows out of town until I couldn’t find anymore. Then I asked a woman about the trail and she pointed in a direction I was headed…so on I went. Finally after an hour, I pulled out my 360 app to find him. We were parallel to each other but I was way off course. He was about to call a taxi to come find me but I finally found the trail with other pilgrims walking. Reunited again! We ran into our friend Keith from New York City. We walked with him into Leon. Very pleasant guy and I told him how much he helped me today before we went separate ways. His company and conversation kept my mind off the leg/foot. People come into your life at the right time and for a reason. Feeling blessed!
    We made it to Leon!!!! 14 miles and 32251 steps! We are going to take a rest day tomorrow and explore the city and the Cathedral. Absolutely beautiful. Today I’m grateful that the foot/leg is better, grateful for Keith and his company, and grateful for a rest day. Sleeping in!!!
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  • Day 30. Rest day in Leon

    13 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Our rest day has been very pleasant. Slept til 0730 and then went out for breakfast. A mango smoothie for me and Cafe con leche and expresso for Steve. Found some yogurt and glazed donuts. They were huge and so yummy! Next was going through the Cathedral of Leon. It was started in the 13 century and it took 50 years to complete. It is of Gothic style and is known for its thin walls and use of stainglass windows. The church of lights. Also went to their museum.
    Ran into our Romanian friend, Mati. He was outside the grocery store. He had bought new shoes yesterday and ended up walking 40 km or 25 miles. Then ran into Peter (New Zealand) having coffee with a couple from Washington State (John and Diane). We tried to get in for a massage but they were booked. That sure would have been nice.
    We had a very nice nap and went out for lunch. Same as yesterday. Steve really liked it but I think we are done with pizza for a while. On the way back, we ran into Terry (Canada) just arriving trying to find her place for the night.
    Amazing how you keep running into people even in a large city. Tomorrow we will be heading out early. I have soaked my foot in epsom salts and will get them ready tonight for tomorrow. We will be heading to San Martin tomorrow. Today I am grateful for the rest, grateful for visits with friends and grateful to be here
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  • Day 31. Leon to San Martin del Camino

    15 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Today leaving Leon, we ran into our friend’s Edelweiss and Mia. I thought they were way ahead of us. It was fun seeing them again. Today we had a choice of 2 routes. The original or the optional. We were doing the original. For some reason the marking of the trail was not very clear and we ended up on the other path. When we discovered it, we were about a mile in and had to turn around and retrace our steps. The walk today was nothing special. It was mainly next to a highway. No beautiful scenery but we did go through Valverde and they had some storks. The babies were huge! We walked 15.3 miles (35005 steps). Grateful we weren’t in further on the wrong trail, grateful for the beautiful weather and grateful for the ability to call my son and motherЧитать далее

  • Day 32. San Martin to San Justo

    16 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    We were unable to get a bed in Astorga, so we are going to stop about 1.5 miles from there and pass through tomorrow morning. Today we stayed with the original route although it was near a highway. Steve was wishing we had taken the other scenic route. But as the saying goes, there is a reason we were on that path…. We were the only ones there with one other person behind us. I recognized him from various Albergue but had not met. He is usually with a large group of South Koreans. We stopped to shed some layers and he came up on us. We asked if was alright and he said he was just following us. He did not want to pass. He wanted to follow. His name is Kin and he wanted us to guess how old he was. Steve guessed about 70. He thanked us profusely and said he was into his 80’s. I knew then, that was why we were there on that route. I don’t know why he was there alone but we kept an eye on him til we got to our place. Hope we meet again.
    After a short nap, we went to find food. This bar had the best hamburguesas. It was missing the onion tho! Met a local playing cards. Looked like solitaire to me. I was able to call and wish my dad a happy Father’s Day! Tomorrow we will be back in the mountains again. Should be more beautiful scenery but weather can be unpredictable. Today I am grateful that we were where we needed to be, grateful to be able to talk with my dad and grateful for a hamburger! Today we walked 12.9 miles (29638 steps)
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  • Day 33. San Justo to Rabanal

    17 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 48 °F

    Early morning. Headed toward Astorga. Only about 3 miles. Stopped to get breakfast. Good size city. Beautiful cathedral. Wish we had gotten a place there yesterday so we could explore. It was not open when we passed by tho. We passed a church that was doing some renovations and they had discovered a home that must have belonged to a family of means. They had indoor baths and thermal area. Intricate tile work. Apparently this may be our last nice day for a few days. Projected rain for tomorrow and 3-4 more days. Temps will be chilly as well. The path is to be more shard like. We have been over that type of surface when it was dry….not thinking it would be too fun if it were wet. We will have to see how to maneuver that. We walked 16 miles today (36641 steps). Tonight we are going to go listen to the Gregorian Monks. Grateful for the beautiful day, grateful for a nice bed tonight and grateful for a good meal this eveningЧитать далее

  • Day 34. Rabanal to Molinaseca

    18 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    I awoke about 4 am to thunderstorms. It continued to rain for several hours. It’s been a while since we have had to put all our rain gear on to walk. Walked to a local bar in Rabanal for some breakfast. We stopped at a significant place called Cruz de Ferro to leave a stone that pilgrims bring from home to leave at the foot of the cross. This was first done in the 11 th century, probably by the Celts that originally owned this part of the country. Later a little chapel was erected dedicated to St James.
    We found our resting place in Molinaseca. It reminds me of an air b&b. Kitchen, family area and rooms upstairs. Not sure how many will be with us tonight. We made a pharmacy run and also a stop at the local grocery store. The shop owner was very generous. He was giving samples of nuts and dried fruits and even gave us each a banana as we left. The rain has left and tomorrow appears to be overcast. Hoping for less rain. Grateful for the grocery store, grateful for our place to stay and grateful for the forecast of no rain while we are in the mountain.

    https://youtube.com/watch?v=dehhOHvAm38&si=…
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  • Day 35. Molinaseca to Cacabelos

    18 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌩️ 66 °F

    Last evening before the rain, we strolled around Molinaseca. Down by the bridge/park area and a very old bridge. Later we went up to the church and met Tim sitting outside. I said “Buenas Tardes” and he said “Where you from?” He said he did not think he had met anyone from Oklahoma at the church. He did the Camino 5 years ago and it changed his life so much that he up and moved to Molinaseca. He attends to the church. He wanted to make sure it was open for anybody to drop by. Five years ago, so many of them were closed and he has worked to change that. Not sure where he was from, he said he lived many places due to his being with the railroad. Very very nice person. He is not Catholic and chooses not to learn Spanish, just so he does not get involved in their politics etc. but he will sit all day at the church and visit with the Pilgrims.
    We had a great walk today. Went through the town of Ponferrada. Los Templarios Castle has a moat and drawbridge and houses the Knights Templars library.
    We are staying in Cacabelos today, in a lovely little room. We enjoyed a delicious lunch of tossed salad, bread and trout.
    We realized that we have been on this journey for one month today. It almost seems incredulous that we have walked at least 600 km during that time. We have met so many from all over the world with one goal——to reach Santiago. It is hard to put into words the many human acts of kindness, vulnerability and sincerity that everyone exhibits and experiences. It will be something that we will miss and not soon forget. Today I am grateful for the wonderful walk without rain, grateful for this journey, and grateful that we have had this experience.
    Walked 15 miles and (34339 steps)
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  • Day 36. Cacabelos to Vega de Valcarce

    20 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    We left Cacabelos this morning with the temps about 50 degrees. Very pleasant for walking. Crossing the Rio CUA out of town and back into the wine country. Rows and rows of grapevines and a few hills to climb. Villafranca was an interesting town. Castillo de Villafranca was on our path. It was built in 1515 over a previous fortification. We then had a second breakfast and came across Bernie from Austria. He said he was very tired, he hurt all over but he was very happy! I think we all are starting to feel the same way. He then proceeded to get a beer. It was 9 am! I came across a quilt shop in Villafranca! Unfortunately it was closed. About the last 3-4 miles, it started raining. We donned our rain gear and kept walking to Pensión Francisco in Vega de Valvarce. I can’t believe how wonderful it is. The host was very sweet and there were little treats in our room. And would you believe Bernie showed up here too. When he saw his room, he could only say how good the Camino has been to him! We also ran into Chen and Anna from South Korea today. They are staying in the same place tonight. We first met them on our 2nd day in Borda. We thought they would be so far ahead by now since we had to take 5 rest days in Burgos. What a happy reunion and to find them doing so well!
    We had a wonderful dinner with mixed salad and seafood paella and Steve had to have the ice cream! Today we walked 16.59 miles (37984 steps). Hoping tomorrow will be a short day (12 miles) since we have a significant climb in the morning.
    Today I’m grateful for the nice walk, grateful for the clean laundry(we splurged and had it done for us) and grateful for a full belly!
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  • Day 37. Vega de Valcarce to Alto de Poio

    21 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ⛅ 48 °F

    The tune to “Oklahoma” ran through my head today as we headed out to climb up to O’Cebriero (1500 m). It was a beautiful morning, temps starting at 47 degrees, it was a beautiful day and I had such a happy feeling to be back in the mountains again! We passed through several small villages nestled into the side of mountains. Homes with large and small gardens, chickens, and cows. As we left Vega De Valcarce we stopped at a bar for a coffee and a resident was bringing his cows through town. Running of the bulls as Steve said. The views were so beautiful today. As we reached the top to O’Cebreiro, a man playing the bagpipes, welcomed us to the little town. When we got to the center square, a bus had let off tourists. You could hardly move because of so much traffic. We decided to go to the next village for a second breakfast. I don’t know if I am ready to be in crowds again. It felt so odd. As we left, we passed the oldest church on the Camino. Wanted to go in but it was closed.
    We met up with our friends Chen and Anna from South Korea, Stuart from Great Britain and Bernie from Austria. All going to different Albergues for the night. We did pass from the Leon Province to the Galicia Provence today. Supposedly this area is known for their beef.
    There is 152 km left til Santiago (94 miles)! We can hardly believe that next week we will finally arrive! Today we hiked 14.8 miles (33872 steps). Tomorrow we will sleep in a bit for our Albergue is only about 9 miles. Easy day. Our knees can use the rest.
    I am grateful for the unbelievable hike today, grateful for our supportive friends and grateful for the privilege to be able to do this hike.
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  • Day 38. Alto de Poio to A Balsa

    22 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Looking forward to a short day. We left in a dense fog this morning. About 50 degrees and misty. It finally cleared after we had our first breakfast. The trail had loose gravel and slate rock on a steep descent. We made it to Tricastela, one of the larger villages. Found an ATM to withdraw some money. Was afraid there would not be any in these small villages and it is a Saturday. As we left town, we saw a very old building. The door was open and a man was sweeping the floor. He directed us to an English version of what the building used to be, a smelting shop in the Middle Ages. As we kept going, we passed pastures with cows and their calves. One group had 10 babies laying around. Walked by a barn and a donkey put his head out. He let me rub his head. Our Alburgue is in A Balsa, called El Beso. It is a vegan establishment. Very rustic. We were the first to arrive, so we had our choice of bunk beds. This time we both took a bottom. Had our showers. The shower had a button you pushed for lukewarm water that lasted 15 seconds, then you keep punching for more water. This is the first one like this that we have come across. Today we walked 10.35 miles (23711steps). Our last sign said we were 131 km (81 miles from Santiago! One of our friends from the start of our journey, Rachel, got in today and she sent me a picture. She is 76 years old and did it by herself. She is from Indiana! Wish we could be there with her!
    Today I’m grateful for an easy day, grateful for my friend Rachel finishing her Camino, and grateful that I was able to talk to both my son and mother!
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  • Day 39. A Balsa to Sarria

    23 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌫 52 °F

    These old buildings with the thick stone walls are so cold! There were only three of us in the Albergue, so we were able to double up on blankets. But I also had on my puffy and every item I brought with me. Had not done that in a while. Once we got started, we had a very steep incline. Nothing like getting your heart pumping and warming up. We met Beverly from Georgia on the route. She is 65 and is a world traveler. She was in Gambia just before starting the Camino. She is still on her Malaria medication. Love her adventurous spirit!
    Ran into Stuart at a little Donotivo (donation) spot this morning. Had to use the WC while there and I never felt so special! The views were spectacular once we got through all the mud and muck. Well worth the climb. Unfortunately, I am starting to get shin splints. Probably from the hike from O’Ceberio. Another round of steroids for me. Good grief! I don’t think I have walked normally for 3 weeks, since Burgos anyway!
    Found our Pension for the night and of course it was at the top of many many steps. Once up there the host told us room was not ready. Good way to get the boarder to order food while they wait! Also waiting was JoAnn from Australia. On her first Camino as well. We are talking about going to a Pilgrims Mass at the Chapel of San Lazaro. A 13 th century building that would care for those with leparosy. Sarria is a starting place for many pilgrims. Also it is a place where many routes converge to travel on to Santiago. From here on the route will be quite busy with “fresh” pilgrims. We look rather worse for wear. Part of the walking wounded. Already it is hard to find places to stay along the route. We will trust that the Camino will provide. Today we walked/limped 11.7 miles (26792 steps). Today I am grateful for the 2 new pilgrims we have met, grateful for the steroids and grateful to be able to wash my hair today! (It’s the little things)
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  • Day 40. Sarria to Portomarin

    24 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ 🌫 57 °F

    We opted to go meet our friends Beverly and Stuart for a drink and dinner last evening. Spain is celebrating with a fiesta in honor of the summer solstice. The riverwalk was packed with families and people just enjoying the music and food. The sangria was the best ever!
    The next morning we were out early as well as many other pilgrims. The path was busier than we had ever seen. It is a new feeling. Many young people, girls with makeup and perfume, children with parents…it brings new life to the trail. Reminds me of when I was 16 and did a 20 mile Walk for Humanity. Young people laughing and just enjoying each other. I hope they look back on this with a desire to maybe revisit it as they get older.
    The walk was pleasant. We started again with a good climb. It was warmer at 56 degrees when we started but overcast. It was going to reach 84 today, our warmest day. Our destination today is Portomarin. We crossed the bridge and the first thing I see is a very steep set of stairs that we had to climb. Our room is lovely and overlooks a street full of restaurants. We are having a relaxing early dinner with salad, pizza and spaghetti. Stuart and Beverly are wanting to get together for dessert later. It’s possible…. Today I am grateful that I was able to talk with dad and Carol yesterday. Grateful for only 59 more miles to Santiago and grateful for the journey we have had.
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  • Day 41. Portomarin to Ligonde

    25 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We left Portomarin this morning in the fog. Fifty six degrees and a large number of pilgrims. Portomarin sits near a beautiful lake which we crossed going back out of town. This was a short walk today to rest my leg a bit. 12 miles (27600 steps). Right off we ran into our friend Rachel that we met 2 weeks ago, maybe longer. We were so happy to see her again. She is suffering with a bad blister which has slowed her down. Then we met a woman from Washington DC, Julie. She is on break from teaching/counselor. She said she was doing the “tourist route”. I suppose that is a good way of putting it. She had just started the day before. I had noticed last evening that many people, young and old were in the pharmacy getting fitted for knee braces and blister aids.
    We had a 15 km (9 mile) climb first thing this morning. That will get your attention! One really had to be careful with the crowds. Many not paying attention, bicyclists trying to get by, not to mention cars. I met a gentleman, Alan from England, where we are staying and he asked what I thought about the trail since Sarria. We both agree it is definitely different. Many with loud blaring music, making phone calls, texting. There is not many that say or even acknowledge when you say Buen Camino. I suppose this is to get me ready for the crowds in Santiago and the return home. It has been so nice to have the peace and quiet during the day walks. I miss that time in my head. 46 more miles to Santiago!!!!
    We got to our spot for the evening and we had a pleasant outdoor sitting area with Alan and Joann (Australia) that we met in Sarria until the rain clouds moved in. If this keeps up, I will sleep very well! Today I am grateful for seeing Rachel again. I am grateful for Steve, my ever present cheerleader, and I am grateful for the shorter day.
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  • Day 42. Ligonde to Melide

    26 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    I was up before 5 this morning. We left at 6 in the dark, foggy morning, Using our phone flashlights to see the route. We had 2 hours of peace and quiet before the crowds caught up with us. It was just wonderful. We had our morning climb right off the bat. Today was rolling hills, not bad. Our destination was Melide and our Albergue was right on the path. We could not believe our luck when we showed up to find that it had a swimming pool! The water felt so good on my legs. I did not bring a bathing suit! It’s just so refreshing! It reminds me of Bernie saying “The Camino has been so good to me”. I feel that way too! Today we walked 14.7 miles (33659 steps). We will have to walk to find a place to eat later but for now a nap and a dip is in order. Today I am grateful for the 2 hours of silence this morning, grateful for the refreshing pool and grateful for 32 miles left to Santiago.Читать далее

  • Day 43. Melide to O Pino

    27 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    On the road at 6 again this morning. Saw a handful of people about 1.5 hours into our walk but the crowds did not come. Did we walk faster, leave earlier than the others, did they quit or are they tired and wanted to start later. I don’t know but so happy to have more peace in our day. We stopped for a break and Steve had a luscious tomato salad.
    We passed many fields of corn and eucalyptus trees. Much of our trail was shaded by the trees. When the sun came out, I was so happy that we were very close to our place for the night. We have been so taken care on the Camino. We are staying in O Pino at a lovely Albergue called Casa de Horreo. Pablo greeted us so warmly and helped us get settled. He helps his parents run the business. He speaks very good English and makes us laugh. Today we walked 15 miles (34655). We have 32 km (19.5 miles) left. We have friends that are finishing today and tomorrow. Hoping to catch up with them in Santiago on Saturday! Today I am thankful for the peace on the trail, grateful for all the people that help us on this journey and grateful for Stephen, he carries the heavier pack and I know his back is tired.
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  • Day 44. O Pino to Lavacolla

    28 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    It was a beautiful, cool morning with a nice breeze when we started. Quiet walking in the still of morning is the best. It looked like it may be the same as yesterday, but after 2-3 hours we came upon a huge group that buses had let out. Probably about 100 people dancing, laughing and with families walked maybe a quarter mile and then the bus picked them up again. We met up with Beverly at one of our stops. She will be staying in the same town tonight before going into Santiago tomorrow. Our friend Stuart arrived today in Santiago. He went to noon Pilgrims Mass and witnessed the Botafumeiro! It has recently been reinstated after a lengthy absence due to maintenance. We are hoping that we will be able to witness it while we are there. We plan to get there early and register our completion at the pilgrims office, find our room and then watch for friends and get to the Mass by noon.
    I cannot express how happy we are to be this close to completion. So many emotions and memories of this journey. It will take a while to process what we have been through. Today we walked 13.5 miles (31081 steps). Tomorrow we have 10km (6 miles) to walk into Santiago. Just AMAZING!!!! We are grateful for staying well enough to complete this journey, grateful for the friends we have made and grateful for being even closer to coming home!
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  • Day 45. Lavacolla to Santiago

    29 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    COMPLETO!!!!!! We made it to Santiago this morning at 9. We had 6 miles and we left at 615. Cool morning. Had to wear my puffy til we climbed our first hill. So surreal to finally be finishing our journey. We went to the church square first to get a few pictures before the crowd appeared and then to the pilgrims office to register. We were number 66 & 67 to finish. Yesterday they had 3202 pilgrims complete their journey. Anxious to see how many come in today. We found our home for the next 2 days and had breakfast. Then went back to the cathedral for Mass at noon. We were standing in line and I saw our friend Rachel from Korea. She was overcome with emotion. I ran over to give her a hug. So glad to see her in Santiago. Unfortunately, just as we got to the door, they had reached maximum capacity. We are hoping to get into the 730 mass this evening.
    There was a huge event happening in the square today. A band set up and was playing. I loved the conductor! He was so expressive. It seems to be a celebration of cancer awareness. And on top of that, a wedding occurred and everyone applauded for them. An amazing place to be. We stopped at the Parador for a drink, cookies and chocolate sauce.
    Steve is so relieved not to be carrying that pack anymore. Our room has a bathtub, so I know where I will be later! We ran into Beverly in line for Mass and then we saw a couple from France Martine and Jean Luc. We have run into them throughout the Camino, but because of language barrier, it’s been hard to communicate. But we knew what each was feeling today!
    Such a surreal feeling. Very emotional, yet much happiness . Exhausting but exhilarating. So glad we have a few days here before we return home. Today we walked 8.4 miles (19219 steps). Today I am grateful for the completion of the Camino, grateful for the friendships along the Camino and grateful for the ability to allow my body to rest
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  • Day 46. Santiago

    29 июня 2024 г., Испания ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    How wonderful life is post Camino!!! 2916 pilgrims came in yesterday! We are grateful to be among them. We attempted to go to noon mass but by the time we got to the door, the capacity was full. They turned us away and said the next one will be at 730 that evening. We got there at 6 and the doors were open and we found our seats. I could smell the incense that they used in the botafumeria. I still held out hope that we would get to witness it as well. The Bishop was there and that made me more hopeful!!! And before I knew it, it was lit and it was swinging over the whole church. The most amazing thing to witness! Following this, we met our friends for dinner. Met some new friends and shared our experiences. Many are moving on to different countries, some walking on to Finestere ( the end of the world). Info was exchanged with promises to keep in touch. WhatsApp is huge among pilgrims.
    We were able to sleep in and it was a bit disorienting, for when I woke, I thought I had overslept. It was so nice to know I could roll over and enjoy the rain that was going on outside. We toured the Pilgrims Museum and the cathedral. Saw Saint James tomb and was able to climb up the main alter and touch the Saint. We may have one more dinner with the friends that are left and then we will be on our own.
    Today my miles are very small 1.25 miles. Funny!
    Today I am grateful for the extra sleep, grateful for our new friends and grateful for all our blessings!
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    Окончание поездки
    4 июля 2024 г.