• Vickie Ludiker
maj – lip 2024

Camino de Santiago

51-dniowa przygoda według Vickie Czytaj więcej
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    15 maja 2024

    Day 1

    16 maja 2024, Stany Zjednoczone ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Delayed a day in getting started but we have finally begun. About to board our flight in Chicago for Madrid. Not the flight or seats we initially booked but at least we have a seat.
    We will be arriving in Madrid at 0730 on the 17th and we will hit the ground running to catch a train. Wish we could have had some time in Madrid. Maybe at the end of our trip. Czytaj więcej

  • Day 2

    17 maja 2024, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    We made it to Madrid!!! Our flight from Chicago was delayed 1 1/2 hours. We arrived with 40 minutes to get from the airport to the train station. Our driver, Mauricio, was determined to get us there on time. We had 5 minutes to spare thanks to a new friend, Scott, who was in the same boat. Once we got to Pomplona, we grabbed a taxi. He drove like he was in the Gran Prix. The switchbacks did not slow this guy down. Final destination for the day St Jean Pied de Port, France. So grateful for a hot shower and dinner. Now for a good nights rest. One more rest day before we start the climb up the Pyrenees Czytaj więcej

  • Day 3

    18 maja 2024, Francja ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    A wonderful, relaxing day in SJPP. Explored the town, toured the Bishop’s Prison and the Citadele from the 14th century. The albergue we are staying is 400 years old. Had a wonderful Pilgrims meal this evening. Pilgrims from Britain, South Korean, Austria and Barcelona. We found our walking poles so I guess we are set to head out the door tomorrow morning. Rain is expected!
    Grateful for this community that we have joined
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  • Day 4. Saint Jean Pied de Port to Borda

    19 maja 2024, Francja ⋅ 🌩️ 55 °F

    Up early, quick breakfast and on to the trail out of town to Borda. Beautiful scenery. The clouds followed us all day. Rained for a while but cleared. Started again in the evening. Stopped midway at Orrison and had hot chocolate. The temps fell as we climbed higher.
    I had my first “What the hell was I thinking” moment. I had to laugh. I figured I would but not this early.
    Our lodgings in Borda is wonderful. Very clean. I was so cold that I jumped into my 4 minute shower. I washed all vital parts and then stood in the hot water for 3 whole minutes!!!! Best part of my day!
    We will be sharing dinner with friends from South Korea, Croatia, New Zealand, Australia, and Indiana.
    Grateful that we made it, for the friends we have met and all the lessons we are learning on this journey. 17000 steps and 7.5 miles today. More tomorrow
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  • Day 5. Borda to Roncesvalles

    20 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 43 °F

    What an extraordinary day! We had a nice breakfast and then left in a chilly 43 degree, windy rain. We faced more uphills. So glad I brought my gloves. I had everything I brought on. Kept meeting up with those we met the night before. A nice break was a food truck where I had some hot chocolate and Steve had boiled egg, coffee and banana.
    We had a very messy patch that resembled a muddy bog. Hated having to sink my feet into the muck-mice running all over. Also passed an area that in the Middle Ages, they would hang or burn witches at the stake.
    Then we came to my favorite spot. Horses, cows and black faced sheep wear cowbells. The music was so beautiful.
    The rain kept moving in and out. Finally we arrived at our destination Albergue de Roncesvalles. It is run by the Dutch. Mainly volunteers from Holland. We are now in Spain.
    Today we did 12 miles and 28,470 steps.
    Today I am reminded that I am grateful to Dr Gursky for the new hips. Dr Mogelnicki for making sure my feet/toes were ready for the trip and to my every day coach. Steve Ludiker
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  • Day 6. Roncesvalles to Lintzoin

    21 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    We had a much more pleasant walk today. Plus it was shorter. Only 10 miles. Tomorrow will be a doozy…..15 miles mainly uphill. Need to get an earlier start. Today it was partly cloudy when we left and 45 degrees, no wind. We passed the little chapel and ended up going through densely grown forests. What a nice change. One group of trees was so dense that it was pitch black. It made me think of the wizard of oz. The trees were covered in moss. I thought a few might throw apples at us. Ha
    We had pizza for lunch and then it started raining.
    I was so grateful for a shorter day to rest my knee also grateful for less rain and a private room tonight.
    We had a great meal last night of pasta, fish and potatoes. And I had the best nights sleep as well. 23,217 steps today
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  • Day 7. Lintzoin to Trinidad de Arre

    22 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    We both felt stronger today. Maybe our bodies are getting used to the routine now. Unfortunately we miscalculated our mileage between stops. We expected to go 15 mile and ended up over 17. We were exhausted and hungry. But our place does not fix meals. Couldn’t find anything g in town, so potato chips and chocolate malt is what for dinner. Oh well, breakfast in Pomplona tomorrow I hope!!
    The coarse today was shards of stone or mud puddles. Kept us on our toes.
    Grateful today for the bed and the food I found and for sunshine!
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  • Day 8. Trinidad de arre to Uterga

    23 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 63 °F

    Heading to Pomplona this morning for breakfast. Nice town. Would have like to explore a little more. Beautiful cathedral where we got a stamp. Outside of city was lush fields of grain and wild poppies. The countryside was so beautiful. Still some steep climbs. Once we crossed Alto del Perdon, I believe we are out of the Pyrenees. An iconic sculpture at the top depicting medieval pilgrims heading westward. Dinner was amazing: fish, French fries, green salad with tomatoes, rice with a fried egg on top and ice cream for dessert. We scarfed it down. We started later but still came in in the same amount of time 8-6pm. 15.7 miles and 36000 steps
    Grateful was a better meal, our beds either a blanket and a shorter day tomorrow!
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  • Day 9. Uterga to Lorca

    24 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 43 °F

    A very nice day. Left Uterga with a beautiful sunrise. Walked thru fields of poppies. The walk was lined with wild roses, honey suckles and Spanish brooms. Walked with a young from Germany. Ferdinand. Had such a sweet smile and so eager to talk to us Americans. When we got to Obanos, we saw an old cathedral with rough sidewalk. Past cemetery and olive trees and vineyards. After climbing, we came to a wonderful surprise at the top of a hill. A young g woman had cold water, juice and wine. Also slices of pineapples and oranges, pears and apples. Bread with olive oil and salt. Such a blessing. Got into Lorca at 1530. Showered and did our laundry. Dinner at 6. Ran into Rachel, 75 year old that had lost her passport her first day. She had to go to Madrid to try to replace it. Good to see her again
    Steve developed a blister under a toenail. They helped him with that with Epsom salt soak and draining. Will have it checked in Estella tomorrow
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  • Day 10. From Lorca to Azqueta

    25 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Much shorter day. 5.85 miles. We had to make a stop at Urgent care for Steve’s blisters. They were so helpful and kind to each of us. We made a pharmacy run to get what we needed. Had a second breakfast but not exactly what I was hoping for. Went to check into our albergue but it was the wrong town….so we kept on walking. Shower done , hair is done and the owner of the albergue made us the best tuna fish sandwich!!!
    Walked with Petra from Sweden today. Having knee issues…helped her by giving her my hiking poles. We have ended up in the same as for the night! Also 2 from Germany that we met two nights ago is here as well. Thank you for all your thoughts and prayers. We feel them and appreciate them. Feeling grateful for the care Steve received today, grateful for the short day and for the best tuna fish sandwich ever!!!
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  • Day 11. Azqueta to Sansol

    26 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 50 °F

    Goodbye to friends made at our albergue. Helena, the hostess, rang a bell as we each left. Such a sweet parting. The day was rolling hills. Good to get a rhythm going. Stopped in Los Arcos for a snack and went into a beautiful cathedral. Gothic, Baroque and Renaissance architecture was noted. Every inch was either gold fresco, carved wood, etc. Did not have a reservation for the night, but somehow something appears. Nice shower and Paella for dinner. Looking forward to a good nights sleep. Hope there are not any snorers. Hahah
    Grateful for ear plugs, grateful for a bed tonight and grateful for dinner.
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  • Day 12. Sansol to Logrono

    26 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Rolling hills mostly out of Azqueta on our way to Logrono. The sun came out very hot towards the end of our walk. We decided to find a room. We did not have reservations and most places were full. But we passed Alburgue Sansol and they welcomed us! I probably looked like I was going to pass out The host made a most delicious dinner of salad, bread, paella, watermelon and chocolate cake and was the entertainment as well. Slept so well. Got up before 6 to get more miles in before the sun catches us and it turns out that it was a cloudy day and cooler. We found our place for the night and it is a hotel. How nice for us. A private room and best of all a bathtub. I thought I was going to cry when I saw it. Grateful for the bathtub today, grateful for the cloudy skies and great for the men and women that sacrificed it all for our freedom to roam Czytaj więcej

  • Day 13. Logrono to Ventosa

    27 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Wonderful hotel in Logrono. The bath was a god send and the breakfast was filling. The signs out of town were not as frequent or noticeable. The locals were more than happy to help us by pointing or telling us the way.
    We were treated to a catholic mass the night before at the Santa Maria Magdalena cathedral. So beautiful!
    We are learning to be more adaptable. Usually when we get into town, bars and restaurants are closed and don’t reopen til 6-7. After all the walking, we are usually ravenous. We try to have crackers, protein bars and fruit at all times. We found a place and had a Caesar salad with chicken nuggets and a pasta dish. Was not one of my favorite meals. When we get in town, we usually check in and leave our shoes at the door. Then we are shown to our room( usually 3-4 flights of steps). Shower and bathroom are typically on first floor. We then shower and inspect our feet, change bandages and sometimes take a short nap.
    There was many street art pieces in town and out on the trail
    13.2 miles today with 30128 steps. Grateful for the many locals that kept us on the right path, grateful for the wonderful place to rest and thankful for the great food to nourish our body
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  • Day 14. Ventosa to Azofra

    29 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    Tried something new today. We went down to one backpack and had the other transported to our next location since we had a reservation. So much easier without the extra 15 lbs on my back. We carried just the essentials- water, meds and foot care needs.
    We left at 7 this morning and caught the sunrise. Pleasant walk past vineyards Saw people out tending the delicate vines. Came into Najera. Passed a cathedral built in 1422. Beautiful wild roses grow along the road. Had to get supplies from the pharmacy and stop at an atm. Not everyone takes a credit card.
    Our Pension is a beautifully updated property with a balcony. Once we had lunch/dinner, I had an afternoon nap. We have decided we like getting into town at an earlier time. We did 10.8 miles today and 24800 steps. Hope to get out earlier tomorrow and go about 12 miles to Granan.
    Grateful for this lovely place to rest, grateful for the transport service today and grateful for the absence of negativity in our life
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  • Day 15 Azofra to Granan

    29 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    We had a bit more energy yesterday evening, so we explored Azofra and sat in the square and enjoyed the locals along with a local wine for Steve and a coke for me. I was able to catch the sunset which occurred about 10pm.
    Got to the bar for breakfast at 0630 and was on the trail at 7. Had quite a few walkers starting off at the same time. This was unusual for us.
    Passed a golf course when we got into Ciruena. The next big town was Santa Domingo. Had a bit of a rest and lunch. Found a market and picked up some fruit and protein bars. Tonight we are in Granan. We got in about 230 after 14.5 miles. It was overcast and cool. Nice day for the walk.
    Grateful for the cooler temperatures, for the peace from long walks and feeling stronger each day
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  • Day 16. Granon to Ages

    31 maja 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    We walked over 14 miles yesterday and our Alburgue was a mile off the trail. It did not have WiFi, so was unable to post til the morning.
    Alburgue Neustra Senora Carresqueda was huge and we were the only guests there. The temperatures dropped during the day but fortunately we had blankets. A very nice green salad with tuna over the top was my dinner. Steve got the same with Cordon Bleu and French fries. The host showed us around and we saw an old alter in the basement that had been part of the town of Granon for centuries.
    In the middle of the night, Steve woke with a throbbing great toe. It was red and swollen. He had Keflex and took it. We discussed taking taxi to medical facility. By the time we were ready to leave, he thought he was better. So after just over 14 miles we reach the clinic and the doctor through google translate made it very clear that it would not heal unless he stopped walking. Dr Diana was very good. We then took a taxi to Ages and will make our way to Burgos tomorrow and rest for 5 days.
    Ages is nice. I am in a room with 5 men, bunk bed, creaking door and I know they snore from the time they took a nap. Fun times tonight!!!
    I’m grateful for continued treatment for Steve, grateful for the respite in Burgos and grateful for the taxi.
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  • Day 17. Ages to Burgos

    1 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 46 °F

    Had a restful night in Ages. I put my silicone in my ears and never heard a thing. We took a taxi to our Hotel Corona de Castilla Burgos. Room was not ready so we went to breakfast. Later we found the pharmacy for epsom salt. While Steve soaked his feet, I had a nap. Felt so good to get caught up on some rest. Afternoon was spent visiting the Cathedral de la Santa Maria Burgos. It is said to be 800,000 years old (1221). It had quite a bit of Gothic influence popular in its day. The first Bishop was from Paris and that was the leading style of the time. As it expanded one will find Baroque influences as well. In 1984 it was listed on the UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE LIST.
    We later enjoyed a nice salad with fried chicken and eggs and French fries.
    Steve has done well wearing his sandals and resting. Can’t wait to see what tomorrow brings. Grateful for a new city to explore, grateful for the downtime to heal and grateful to talk with my parents today
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  • Day 18. Burgos

    2 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ⛅ 59 °F

    We met a pilgrim from Washington State this morning, taking a rest day due to knee issues. We made a good connection and chose to go back to the Cathedral for the Pilgrims Mass. Although we are neither Catholic nor Spanish speaking, it was heartfelt. Took a stroll along the plaza and park area. They were having a live concert with a 4 piece band.
    I woke up this morning with some plantar fasciitis pain to my heel, but with a band, a few exercises and ibuprofen, I was able to get around better.
    Maybe we are just two old people wanting to do the impossible…..but we keep bouncing back. Three more days and we will be back on the trail again
    Grateful to have met another pilgrim and shared the Mass with her, grateful for time to heal all things, grateful for time to reflect on our journey
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  • Day 21. Burgos.

    4 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Our last night in Burgos! Our 36 wedding anniversary as well. When we married, we backpacked through Europe but not quite the same way. We have enjoyed our time in Burgos. The residents seem to know how to slow down and be more casual. They are conscientious about recycling and keeping trash off the streets.
    We spent our day looking at the Evolution Museum. A modern four floor building with much information. We spent some time in the park eating grapes and apples. Steve was intrigued with a “statue” that turned out to be a mime.
    We had a nice dinner and topped it off with churros and warm chocolate sauce.
    We are now getting our backpacks ready for tomorrow. We have tuna and bread, fruit, nuts and plenty of water for our day. We will be starting the Meseta, a plateau of wheat fields. Known for not having trees, or rest areas. We will get an early start and hope to get much of it done by early afternoon.
    Steve’s feet are good. I am now on a steroid dose pack for the plantar fasciitis. Hope that and ibuprofen will get me on down the road.
    Grateful for this guy I married so many years ago, grateful for the steroids and grateful to be back on the road again……
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  • Day 22. Burgos to Hornillos

    6 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Felt like I was awake all night. Not sure if it was the anticipation of walking or the steroids. Probably both. We got going about 0630 just before sunrise. Many other pilgrims were on the path already. Fields of poppies and other wildflowers lined the path. We decided to do a light day since it’s the first one since Steve’s blisters. His feet looks great. Dr Diana knew what she was talking about. My heel was painful from the first step. The pain was trying to rob my joy but it was a cool 55 degrees and gorgeous walk, that I just couldn’t let it happen. Lovely, huge roses growing wild. Several stork nests on church bell towers. We are staying in Hornillas tonight. There are three bunk beds in our room. All six spots are taken. Again Im the only female with 5 guys. One from England, Spain, South Korea and New Zealand.
    We did 8.8 miles (20,000 steps). Tomorrow will most likely be about the same. Kinda depends on my foot. Today I’m grateful to be out on the trail again, grateful for the peace that this experience provides, grateful for the friendships made along the way.
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  • Day 23. Hornillos to Castrojeriz

    6 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 84 °F

    We had a very good stay in Hornillos. Ran into Terry again from Canada. I love when our paths cross with other pilgrims we have met along the way. The group there were fun, making it very enjoyable and relaxing. We met Johann from Belgium, a couple from Connecticut, Peter from New Zealand and Stuart from Great Britain. Johann had done 6 Caminos, Peter had done 2, the couple from Connecticut had done the Appalachian trail in 5 months. All very accomplished hikers. We enjoyed another wonderful meal of paella and of course the wine flowed freely.
    I slept better last night but poor Steve was up most of the night. We got out about 0730, overcast skies and had a great walk to Hontanas. The fields were full of wildflowers and wheat. Some had already been baled. Went into a small cathedral where an older man stamped our pilgrims passport. He then wanted to show us a room outside of a small village. He pushed a button to start the water down the mountain into the fields. Very sweet of him to show it to us. We met a couple of girls from China enjoying the wildflowers and we all took pictures and shared them. They were too cute. We passed some ruins of an old monastery in San Anton. It is now being used as a municipal Albergue. We had a very slight rain while walking. Very refreshing and welcomed.
    Today we are staying in Castrojeriz at the Albergue Rosalia. We walked 13.3 miles (30,462 steps). The plantar fasciitis is more of an annoyance than pain now. So I think a combination of things is starting to work. I’m grateful today for walking without pain, grateful for the little shower we had on the trail and grateful for the beautiful walk we had
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  • Day 24. Castrojeriz to Fromista

    7 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    We left the Albergue Rosalia about 0730 and walked about 7 hours to Fromista Alburgue Estrella de Camino. We had had a loud thunderstorm during the night and it cooled the temps down to 49 degrees. It was perfect for climbing the hill when we left town. The view was amazing from the top looking back towards town and the view from the other side was even more beautiful. The Meseta has not disappointed!!!
    We walked 16.7 miles (38,248 steps) today, but tomorrow will be a light day—-12 miles to Corrion de las Condes. This Alburgue does not offer a group dinner and the restaurants close at 2. We had a couple of cans of tuna and a baguette. Very tasty. A young man from South Korea had bought spaghetti at the store but no way to cook it, so we insisted he share our meal with us. I’m grateful for the beautiful walk today, grateful to be able to share a meal with another, and grateful for the pleasant weather
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  • Day 25. Fromista to Carrion del los Cond

    9 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    We had more overnight rain showers. The temps cooled off. I slept in my leggings and puffy inside my sleeping bag liner. Still chilly. Our room had 10 people on bunk beds. WiFi was iffy. We got out about 0730 and walked to our next stopping point in Carrion del Los Condes. We walked 12.6 miles (28,910 steps). Met several of our fellow pilgrims from previous Albergue,Johann from Belgium, Stuart from Great Britain, Edelweiss and Mia from China, Lo from Taiwan and Tyler from New York after just graduating from college. The path today followed the main road. We still saw many fields and fields of wheat, wildflowers, and potatoes.
    We are about 2 days away from the half way mark. It is hard to believe that we have been walking about a month. It seems a blur and so distant. The thought of getting closer to the end is exciting but also sad to think of it ending. Not sure if I was really expecting to feel that way.
    We are staying in a private room tonight, Hostel La Corte. Very nice and clean and attached to a wonderful restaurant. We had a late lunch of garlic fried trout, salad and fried potatoes. Steve had ice cream for dessert. We even had time for a nap😜. Grateful for the shorter walk, grateful for the cooler temps and grateful for the lunch and a nap!
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  • Day 26. Carrion to Terradillos

    9 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    We were able to go to the Pilgrim’s Mass last evening. The priest was much more relaxed and even a bit playful than the one in Burgos. When the ceremony was over, he asked that the pilgrims come to the front. He wanted to know where everyone was from. Afterwards, he gave individual blessings to each of us. Then invited us into the antechamber for the stamp. I was very interested in receiving the stamp but also very interested in the older relics and artwork in that room.
    We left Carrion with a cool 45 degree temp and a breeze that kept “pushing” us forward. We had read and had been told that it was going to be a long stretch without places to rest or get water. We had about 2.5 liters of water just in case we needed it. To our surprise, we came upon a food truck serving coffee and breakfast items and within 3 miles a very nice rest stop. We keep running into familiar friends and meeting new ones along the way. We may only say “Buen Camino” or “How are your feet”
    But it is well intentioned. Saw Rachel and Tomo today. Walked with Tomo a while. He asked Steve what makes for a long relationship? Tomo later told me what he had asked and I said “ I would love to hear what he said”. Tomo thought that was funny!
    We walked 17 miles (39,040 steps) today to Terradillos. We had a wonderful meal of spaghetti,salad, and fish. It was the best spaghetti ever! When you come in as hungry as we do, everything is the best ever!!! Tomorrow we head to Bercianos. Today I am grateful for the wind to my back, grateful for the spaghetti and grateful for a place to lay my head.
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  • Day 27. Terradillos to Bercianos

    11 czerwca 2024, Hiszpania ⋅ ☀️ 41 °F

    We got started early this morning. I had a pep talk with my feet (especially the one with plantar fasciitis). This is the day we would get to our half way mark in Sahagun. But I think we had a misunderstanding, for once we got there , I think my feet thought they were done for the day. They did not want to go the extra 6-7 miles to Bercianos! We made it anyway! 15.8 miles and 36210 steps. I’ve noticed that the vineyards and olive groves are replaced by corn and potatoes now in the fields along with the wheat and still wild flowers along the way. Came across a marker this morning in memory of a Methodist Pilgrim that passed in 2013 on the Way. Also I find I spend a lot of my time with my shadow. Long stretches where Steve will walk ahead and then wait for me to catch up. A lot of time spent in your head…..
    We chose not to get our certificate in Sahagun. We did get a stamp instead and then moved on to our place in Bercianos. The Albergue La Perala is new with a wonderful sitting area outside to enjoy a refreshment or visit with friends. We cleaned up, had lunch, washed our clothes and hung them on the line. It was 40 degrees when we started this morning, so I had everything on. It’s hard to get things washed all at once but I managed to wash the 2 tops I have and wear my rain jacket while they dried.
    We ran into an old roomie, Stuart (Great Britain) and met a friend of his Luke from Belgium. Later at the Albergue, another roomie Fran came in for lunch before heading to his Albergue. We met him at the same time we met Stuart. I was the only female in a room of 5 guys. I remember when I met him, he introduced himself and said his name is Francisco from Valencia Spain but his friends call him Fran and he wanted me to call him Fran. When we saw each other again today, he runs over like we were old friends and grabs us by the shoulders and leans in and kisses each cheek—-that is how friendships are on the Camino. We are sharing a common road that we hope will lead to the same end.
    Tomorrow we will head to Leon. A much bigger city. So today I am grateful to get to the half way point in our journey, grateful for the friends we meet and continue to see and grateful for clean clothes!
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