Camino de Santiago

A 45-day adventure by Christine Read more

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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Fromista to Carrión de los Condes
September 30, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
9.30.2017 Saturday
It was a leasurely 13 mile walk with beautiful cool weather. The trail was very flat and dry. As we spoke to an elderly gentleman, we learned there had been no rain since April. That explained the very dry fields and hard surfaced trails. Despite the trail, the fields had their own serene beauty. We visited the beautiful Santa Maria del Camino church which hosted a free concert at night. A wonderful American guitarist played an amazing 16 string guitar he had invented. Dinner was at a wonderful restaurant which was ironically attended by several of our Camino family.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Ledigos to Sahagún
October 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C
10.2.2017 Monday. 13 miles
So today we officially reached the half way point between St Jean to Santiago. We have walked approximately 250 miles. Wow!

Let me tell you this has not been easy. Yes the end of the day is all smiles because the sense of accomplishment feels so good.

We've been through dozens of beautiful churches, taken endless pictures of peregrino statues and scenery and have met incredible people from all over the world. It's amazing how relaxed and open everyone is. They're all your family. Everyone says hello and we all greet each other like old friends. When we arrive at a cafe or end of day destination, we all share our pain. Many limping, sore bandaged feet and toes. You don't realize how sore your feet are until you stop. Immediately the shoes come off and sandals on. As you walk around town, it's easy to spot a peregrino by their sandals and the way they walk. We all just smile at each other.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero
October 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
10.3.2017 Tuesday. 12 miles

Today was one of our "shorter" Days. The trail was straight, flat and thankfully a lot was tree lined. We came across a small church that looked so simple, and yet, again, the inside was beautiful. The afternoon. quickly turned hot with no trees which always makes a short day longer. Was nice to meet up with four marvelous Canadian woman that have become friends.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Carrión de los Condes to Ledigos
October 3, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
10.1.2017 Sunday
The early cool mornings are probably the most pleasant. Most of Spain is still asleep and all you see is your fellow peregrinos starting out another day. Mentally, you have a clear mind. You are relaxed. Feels good not to have to do anything in the day other than walk......

The churches along the way are truly amazing. The large cathedrals are beautiful but then there are the small simple looking churches that you walk into and their beauty amazes you. They capture your soul.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
El Burgo Ranero to Mansilla de las Mulas
October 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
10.4.2017 Wednesday 14 miles.

A beautiful cool day to walk. Long stretches of straight dirt path made the walking easier. Throughout the last few days we have been seeing what appear to be huts made into a hill with a chimney. A more elaborate one can be seen in the third photo below. They are used for storage for food and wine

The best part of this day was our dinner. It was the best meal we've had on the Camino. La Curiosa only seats 18 people and I can only say the meal was fabulous. We were amazed when our meal was only €12.50 per person for first course, second course, dessert, coffee, bread, bottled water and wine! My spare ribs (deep fried) with homemade chips was the best I had ever tasted. A great way to end our day.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Mansilla de las Mulas to León
October 4, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 16 °C
10.5.2017 Thursday
And uneventful entry into León through the commercial area led us to the center of the old city. There stood a breathtaking view of the León Cathedral. We were fortunate to arrive for yet another feast (León Province) - San Froilán. Looking forward to a couple days of rest and enjoying the festival!Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
León
October 7, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
10.6.2017 Friday

Cathedral León
We visited this French inspired 13th-16th century cathedral in the late morning (today was one of the rare days we were able to sleep in 😴and rest our weary feet 💅). Upon entry there are 128 stained glassed windows with a surface of 1800 sq metres. Absolutely breathtaking. It took over am hour just for the audio tour and we'd have to return Saurday just to visit the museum.

Probably haven't mentioned that all of Spain still takes a siesta in the afternoon. Typically from about 1:30 -4:00 pm (and later) All stores are closed and only some cafes and tourist shops are open.

Evening was a relaxing gathering in our apartment with 4 of our lovely Canadian Camino friends. 🍷🍷🍷

In the evening we enjoyed the Mideval festival feast and entertainment.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
León
October 8, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 8 °C
10.7.2017 Saturday
Second day of rest ☺

We returned to the León Cathedral to see the museum and were treated to see a huge open market in the plaza. The size and quality of the produce was outstanding. Then off to the museum.
Unfortunately, no photos were allowed in the Cathedral so I can only say it had an incredible display of artifacts from the 10th to 17th century.
At night the streets were filled with people (I think all of Leon) celebrating with bands playing throughout the streets. It was quite the spectacle!Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
León to Villar de Mazarife
October 8, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 19 °C
10.8.2017 Sunday 13.5 milea
🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♂️🚶‍♀️
Up at 6:30 (45°) and on our way again. We walked nearly 4 miles before we were out of the city. On the way out we were able to see the León Pompadour Hotel and get a stamp for our Camino passport.
The way was more than half paved and still over mostly brown dry fields. We had a wonderful communal meal at the auberque we stayed at. Salad, Gazpacho soup, paella, crepe dessert and wine - €10. It was nice to chat with new pilgrims from South Africa.

To bed early for a long walk tomorrow!Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Villar de Mazarife to Astorga
October 8, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
10.9.2017 Monday 21 miles

Up at at the crack of dawn to attempt one of our longest days - 21 miles.

The advantage of walking extra miles will allow us more time in Astorga and to rest up for our next mountain climb to the highest point on the Camino.

Feet all taped and ready to go. Oh yes, wonderful paper tape.... cover healed blisters and pray you've taped the right areas so you don't get any new ones!
The sunrise was beautiful with not a cloud in the sky. We have had great weather. No rain, cool mornings and warm afternoons.

Starting to see a few more hills and corn crops as we approach Astorga. Today's photos show some of the many peregrino statues dedicated to the Camino.
Exhausted, we crawled into Astorga boasting we had made it all the way.Read more
TravelerYeah! You did it!
10/12/17Reply
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Astorga
October 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C
10.10.2017 Tuesday

We continue to be blessed with cool mornings, blue skies and warm afternoons. We haven't seen any rain since the Pyrenees.

It was an incredible to be standing in a city, Astorga, that was founded by the Romans in the 1st century B.C. We were able to see some remains of city walls built by the Romans!
We visited the beautiful Astorga cathedral which is an amazing mixture of Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic, Neo-Classicist and Baroque since it was constructed over several centuries.
We also toured the 19th century Episcopal Palace (Palacio Espiscopal), designed by Antoni Gaudi.

Lunch at Las Termas was a special treat. A local restaurant with no menu. Just sit down and they start serving food. First a dish of mixed meats (beef, chicken, sausage, pig ears, bacon)...all you can eat. We ate a lot, expecting that was the meal. But no, next came a large dish of cooked garbanzo beans with cabbage that was delicious! ....all you can eat. As if we didn't have enough, here comes the soup. Superb. Followed by home made dessert! Not to mention 2 great bottles of temparillo wine. All this, bottled water and great bread - €22
Incredible!!!Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Astorga to Foncebadón
October 10, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C
10.11.2017 Wednesday 17 miles

Leaving Astorga on a chilly morning. We start out with very cold hands that warm up after the first hour and by afternoon we're wearing short sleeves. The way is starting to change from brown to rolling hills with some greenery and pretty scenery. We start our looonnnggg ascent to the highest town on the camino.

It was a long 8 hour day with a stop for lunch. Our destination was at an alburque in Foncebadón. The town had been deserted but is now being revived by the increase of pilgrims on the Camino. It looked like an old delapputated western town with no street. Many houses were still deserted. The last photo is the view across from our alburque.....no paved road, just uneven dirt and rocks!Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Foncebadón to Ponferrada
October 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
10.12.2017 Thursday - 17 miles 9 hours

A very emotional day today. We finish our ascent from the highest town to the highest point on the Camino, the Iron Cross (Cruz de Ferro). It's origin can be traced back to the Romans to mark territory but the most know is to mark the Way (to Santiago) when it is hidden by snow.

Tradion is the pilgrim places a stone they have brought from their origin as a recognition of leaving behind sins and burdens in their lives. Each has their own variation and personal intentions as to it's meaning.

It is a very personal moment with great emotion. As we began to descend, our walk was quiet, deep in our own thoughts.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Ponferrada
October 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C
10.13.2017 Friday. Rest day

Toured the grand Templar castle built in 13th century. But, the highlight of the day was another great restaurant Manny had discovered. Off the beaten tourist path hid a charming small restaurant with a beautiful view of the hill over the river below. Manny and I shared a wonderful fresh fish (the only fresh fish we had since arriving in Spain) with of course a wonderful wine. Dessert was a delicious lemon mouse. Needless to say we weren't very hungry for any dinner.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo
October 13, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
10.14.2017 Saturday - 16 miles

One of our earlier start days, on our way before by 7:45. Temperature expected to go to upper 70s which is quite warm for walking. We did arrive in Villafeanca early enough to walk around the old town. Manny's cold had returned so was a good relaxation evening.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Villafranco del Bierzo to Las Herrerias
October 15, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
10.15.2017 Sunday 12.5 miles

8:00am still dark, cool damp upper 50s .morning, Walked between beautiful mountain valleys along paved road less traveled. Many old, nearly abandoned towns held an eerie beauty. i tried to imagine what it was like before the highway that now hung between the mountains by enormous pillars.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Las Herrerias to Fonfria
October 16, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
10.16.2017 Monday 13 miles

13 grueling miles today! Woke up smelling smoke and discovered it was from the fires here in northern Spain. 8:30am - After making sure the fires were not on the camino, we headed out. At least the temperature was in the 60s.
This was supposed to be one of the most beautiful parts of the Camino with stunning mountain views which would make you forget the 10 mile uphill climb. Much to our dismay, we were not able to see anything but smoke. The climb was our second hardest climb (after the Pyrenees) but most difficult due to the smoke - making it hard to breathe.
No beautiful views, just smoke. We passed through a few nearly deserted towns and O Cebreiro which had a nice church. It is the first town in Galicia region. We were exhausted when we arrived at our stop for the day, Fonfria, at 3pm.

Fortunately the fires are on the other side of the mountain. Tomorrow we will be checking if any parts of the Camino are closed.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Fonfria to Pintin
October 17, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 12 °C
10.17.2017 Tuesday. 13 miles

Today we elected to start out after 9 due to the rain and steep decent ahead. Light rain and dense fog covered the area (and light smoke). The long down slope was rocky but not nearly as bad as expected. The fog and smoke lifted and we could finally enjoy the hillside views. The ground was covered with lots of chestnuts and we came across an 800 year old chestnut tree. We met a lovely South Korean pilgrim who was traveling alone. He was fascinated by the large trees and beauty of the landscape.

We expected to have an easy day after the downhill but it turned into more steep up and down hills on wet paths that pushed us to our limit.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Pintin to Marcadoiro
October 18, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
10.18.2017 Wednesday 15.5 miles

Leaving at 8:30 we had cool temperature that required an extra layer under the rain coat. The trail through old farms was relatively easy compared to what we had been walking the last 2 days.

Today we were happy to arrive at the100k mile marker to Santiago de Compostelo. Serria is the 100k town where many pilgrims start their Camino. 100k is the minimum required distance for a certificate from Santiago.

We noticed the trail appeared much more groomed when we left Serria. Mostly wider and easier to travel. There were many fruit trees and thousands of chestnuts. A couple houses had set up food stands with fruit, cakes, drinks that were supported by donations. It's a welcome treat on the Camino. We were lucky to walk through only a few rain showers that lasted 10 minutes.

Our auberque is Abergue Mercadoiro and we have an unusual private suite in a stone house with sitting room and 2, step down to "cave", stone bedrooms!Read more
Traveler100K That's more my kind of pilgrimage (one week )
10/20/17Reply
TravelerSuch a cool hotel!!
10/20/17Reply
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Mercadoiro to Airexe
October 19, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
10.19.2017 Thursday 14.5 miles

A cool morning that hardly warmed up. Up and down hills, cool wind with on and off rain. A day that reminded me of the cool days on the Pyrenees.

We met one of our Canadian friends who was taking a bus to meet her friends ahead. She had hurt her knee running from the fires on the Camino.
We later passed through some areas that were totally burned.

Today we passed through one of the more treacherous area of the trail. No alternate path, we had to pass between two stone walls with very steep wet rocks. Debbie traversed part way sitting down! Check out Manny's video in Facebook. We were happy it was only a short distance.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Airexe to Melide
October 20, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C
10.20.2017 Friday 14 miles

We all believe this was one of our easiest days despite the distance. The entire mostly small gravel unpaved trail was virtuesly down hill. Since the 100k make in Serria, the trail appear to be wider and better groomed.

In Melide, we found another great restaurant called Casa Alongos. Delicious octopus (for those who like it) (a speciality in this area), incredible scallops, grilled goat cheese salad, grilled vegetables, blank Angus burgers and homemade rice pudding. Not your typical Spanish meal. And of course, to top it off, a great bottle of Alvarinho (Albariño) wine.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Melide to Selceda
October 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 11 °C
10.21.2017 Saturday 16 miles

Because of the dark mornings, we have had to start our walk a little later each day. Today started about 8:40 and just light enough to see the trail markings. A wide trail today, but steeper hills very wet and muddy but easy on the feet. Still was a long 16 miles.

Today we saw a donkey on the trail next to a stand with stuff to buy and feed the donkey! Most memorable and emotional was two women pushing an elderly man in a wheel chair. What strength. I felt I truly suffered nothing on the way. Also met someone who was doing the Camino for the third time and another walking back from Santiago after having walked to Santiago, taken a bus to Oporto and walked to Santiago again. Amazing.

So here we are, near the end of our journey. Shorter walk tomorrow and Monday when we walk into Santiago.
Speechless.Read more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Selceda to Lavacola
October 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C
10.22.2017 Sunday 11 miles

Last walk before Santiago. Took it slow so we could enjoy the beautiful path through unusually large eucalyptus trees. Always a few hills to climb.
We met two pilgrim women at our hotel and enjoyed talking about the Camino places and people we had met. The Camino is very much about the people you meet along the way.

Ready for our final leg into Santiago tomorrow. 10kRead more
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Camino de Santiago Christine Da Silva
Lavacola to Santiago de Compostela
October 21, 2017 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
10 23.2017 Monday 6 miles 10k

"It's good to have an end to journey toward but it's the journey that matters in the end."
TravelerIs it cold or does Manny still have his cold. GREAT ACCOMPLISHMENT!!!
10/23/17Reply
Christine Da SilvaIt was cold!
10/24/17Reply
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Trip end
October 21, 2017