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Via Francigena - part 3
  • Carmel Carlsen
  • Carmel Carlsen

Via Francigena - part 3

This is the last leg of the Via Francigena - also known as the Sud. It runs from Rome to Santa Maria di Leuca. Read more
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  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    My first off street path
    3Outside Serrano4The locked public toilet at Parco TorcitoRoman ruins in Parco Torcito1Saint Mary Montevergine cryptPalmarggiIn Maria S.S. Palma curch1The ceiling in Guirdignano church1Saint Angelo's crypt12Castello Argonese

    Day 47: Martano to Otranto

    May 12 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Another day of great walking (32.82 km), though I have to say it got a little hot (26°c). I was surprised at how well I coped with the heat. My highlights today were seeing a woodpecker and a black snake (literally in the grass). The Way today was very welcoming, there were Buon Camino benches, art pieces and signs. I took heaps of photos and, of course rested on one of the seats. Additionally, I walked through a lot of parkland with picnic tables, toward the end there were even some marble benches. I came across a public toilet in the first park - locked, of course. I also walked through some Roman ruins and even came across a disused rail line that looked in pretty good nick. I also visited two crypts: Saint Mary Montevergine and Saint Angelo. Finally, the end of the Way brought me back to the sea - the water looks perfect.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    4The cathedral ceiling in Otranto
    24The Danish pilgrims22Cute coffee cart10Spotted on a Land Rover on a dirt road22The ceiling in the church, Santa Maria Maddelina, in Uggiano4In the church at Cocumola

    Day 48: Otranto to Vignacastrisi

    May 13 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    A shorter walk today (27.59 km). The Way began with an encounter with two pilgrims from Denmark, who started at Lecce, they walked past as I was having my morning coffee. The first part of the Way was along the coastline - very nice - and then moved inland through dirt tracks, dirt roads and minor back roads. I saw some lovely churches in the smaller towns I walked through, kept smelling licorice, for some reason (Anne-Laure thinks it may have been fennel), and was met with some light rain as I arrived in Vignacastrisi. Unbelievably, Anne-Laure, Tony, Cliff (who's wife was once a Librarian, before she studied law, I found out at dinner last night) and I are all in the same accommodation here! There just might be a party!
    Update: the licorice smell was the aniseed plant. Perhaps someone was mowing it    Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    4
    2211112The church ceiling in Tricase2

    Day 49: Vignacastrisi to Tricase

    May 14 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    A very short walk today (15 km). Today's highlight along the Way was spending the entire time with both Tony and Cliff. They are both faster walkers than I am, but as it wasn't too long, I was able to keep up. Anne-Laure's foot is almost healed and so she met us at Tricase, and she and Tony have continued on another six kilometers, so that they will have a shorter walk tomorrow into Leuca. I was in my accommodation by 11:30 am, having already enjoyed a beer to complete the walk. I'll spend the rest of the day relaxing and doing as little as possible.Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    6Love it: liquid therapies
    San Domenico church in TricaseCity walls in TricaseInside San Francesco da Paola church in Gagliano del Capo22222Approaching Santa Maria di Leuca22Ionia SeaBasilica Pontifica Santa Maria di Finibus Terrae (lands end)182The water is so clear4

    Day 50: Tricase to Santa Maria di Leuca

    May 15 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    Cliff and I headed out from Tricase at 7 am. Cliff sets a very good pace and we powered through the walk. We met up with Anne-Laure and Tony just over 3 km out of Santa Maria di Leuca and arrived at the Basilica just after 11:15 am, all together as planned (after an 18.1 km walk). I won't deny, some tears came to my eyes! We hugged, we smiled and we entered the Basilica to give thanks. Obtaining the testimonium was easy; we filled out the register, I was the 606 pilgrim to finish this year, and a lovely nun gave us our final stamp and completed our testimoniums for us. She was very meticulous about our names. I noticed, that of all the other pilgrims in the register (which started on May 5th), we were the only ones who had walked the Via Francigena. All the others had started in Lecce and walked what's called the Camino di Salento. We had a celebratory lunch and then went to our respective accommodations. I realised that I had lost my ear buds and, vaguely remembering hearing something fall as I was walking after we met up with Anne-Laure and Tony, I retraced my steps along the Way to be rewarded! The poor things, which were in a silicon pouch with my rosary beads (which are now all broken), had been run over by a car. They are battered, but are still working. What a blessing! Tonight, we had a delicious meal together as a final celebration as Anne-Laure and Tony are heading off tomorrow at 6:25 am. I feel very good - I made it!Read more

  • Carmel CarlsenVia Francigena - part 3Carmel Carlsen
    The Ionian sea2Grotto del DiavoloShades of sculpture by the seaInside the local church

    Day 51: Santa Maria di Leuca - rest day

    May 16 in Italy ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    I woke up early, unintentionally, I assure you. I rang home and as I was talking to one of my daughters out the front of my hotel, Anne-Laure and Tony walked past! I accompanied them to the bus stop and waved them off. I returned to my room and eventually resurfaced around 9 am to find a coffee and was lucky enough to get a good one - so I had two. I then walked around the town and along the coastline for a while. Santa Maria di Leuca is a typical seaside town and at this time of year is very quiet. I can imagine it buzzes in the summer. Around lunchtime there was a storm, which cleared pretty quickly and then Cliff and I met for a leisurely lunch. I've spent the rest of the afternoon organising my exit tomorrow morning and lazing around. I'm heading off to Rome tomorrow and then onto Assisi to complete the Via di Francesco.Read more

    Trip end
    May 17, 2026