• Nathan Laurie
  • Vela Huang
nov. 2023 – mar. 2024

Cruising NZ

Sailing a 45ft sailboat around NZ, exploring islands, diving, and sharing our experience with mates along the way Læs mere
  • Stevie's Island - Butterfish Bonanza

    22. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    Yesterday was about the crayfish, today's theme is the Butterfish.

    This morning we woke up to find our anchorage had gotten a little bumpy overnight. So after everyone had crawled out of their beds, we packed up the boat and left to find a calmer spot at Stevie's Island.

    Once we got out of the shelter of the Cavalli's, the sea state was very uncomfortable. Daniel went a bit green and quietly made a contribution to Tangaroa off the back of the boat. After about an hour and a half, the water got a little bit calmer as we got around the Western side of Stevie's. We found a likely looking spot and put the anchor down for lunch.

    Unfortunately the swell was bending around the corner, so we opted to try and tuck in a little closer and succeeded in a marginal improvement in comfort. Nathan and Daniel jumped in for a dive, setting a couple of ground baits to try and lure in a snapper. Although there were a couple of legal snapper feasting on the busted up kina, nothing was worth taking so we let them be.

    Nathan did bump into a nice fat Butterfish, and popped a nice shot off just behind the gills. After a little bit of extrication from the seaweed, Nathan ticked off another target species, and we had a beautiful feed for dinner, adding to the Butterfish Daniel shot previously.

    It was a bit of a miserable afternoon with rain showers, so indoor activities prevailed for the rest of the afternoon (excluding Nathan catching and accidentally releasing a nice Kahawai).

    For dinner, Vela whipped up a soup using the bones of the Butterfish, as well as her Chinese pork belly specialty dish, while Nathan and Daniel crumbed and fried up the Butterfish.
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  • Stevie's to Whangaroa Harbour

    23. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Nathan and Daniel started the day by getting into their wetsuits for a 7am dive. A relatively short dive as Nathan's mask was fogging up badly, but it yielded some good results. Two Goatfish and two Painted Moki going into the fish bin. Both species are very striking, the Painted Moki with it's bold stripes, and the Goatfish with it's electric blue markings on its face and fins.

    After that the weather closed in and we had light drizzle or worse for most of the day. In one of the few breaks in the weather, the team packed the boat up and headed for Whangaroa Harbour. The rain didn't stay away long and Nathan was very quickly nominated to be at the helm in his wet weather gear.

    Cruising through the Whangaroa Harbour entrance, and with the misty rain and low cloud it felt a little like we were in Milford Sound. The Duke's nose was still quite an impressive feature as well, hoping we'll be able to climb it in the coming days if the weather improves.

    Vela fried the Goatfish whole with ginger, garlic, soy sauce and oyster sauce for a delicious dinner. The Painted Moki will be delivered to Nathan's parents for smoking (possibly our last chance to get smoked fish).

    Fingers crossed we get some better weather for Christmas!
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  • The Duke's Nose

    24. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Christmas Eve morning. After a couple of days where we didn't do a lot, we thought it was time to stretch our legs and do some sightseeing. So after a slow morning, we had trevally pita's for lunch and launched the dinghy for a shore excursion.

    We landed at Lane Cove hut and hiked up the track to the Duke's Nose, roughly 30 min and 180m elevation. The track was a bit muddy after the wet weather, but super interesting with steep sections held together with tree roots and a couple of sections where you have to scale a cliff (aided by a safety pole).

    Although it was cloudy, the views were still epic, and brought to mind scenes from Avatar.

    After a photo shoot at the top, we headed back down the track for a dip in the water to cool off.
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  • Christmas Eve in Waihi Bay

    24. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    After our hike up the Duke's nose, it was time to drop Daniel off back on shore so he could spread some Christmas cheer (aka crayfish).

    We motored into Whangaroa Marina, spotting a couple of shark fins behind the boat (they really seem to be everywhere at the moment!) and dropped Daniel off. Afterwards we headed back out to find a nice quiet spot to settle in for the evening. Waihi cove looked perfect and there were no other boats in sight.

    We spent the rest of the evening paddleboarding around the bay (in between the rain) spotting heaps of eagle rays, Parore, Kahawai snapper and more from the surface. Nathan hooked a baby kingfish and even after playing with camera angles still couldn't make it look big.

    We traded in the Pig Fish and Goat Fish from previous days for some "Cow Fish" (steak) for a change, which Jamie cooked to perfection. And we ended the evening with a nightcap (or six) and tried out a little bit of night time photography.

    The bay was perfectly still, and we had a very peaceful sleep, with just the sounds of Morepork and Kiwi calling in the bush.
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  • Christmas Day

    25. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    A slow day for Christmas, as it should be! Nathan whipped up a batch of breakfast pizzas (pancakes) and we picked up Nathan's sister (Emma) and hey boyfriend (Josh) from Whangaroa Marina in the afternoon.

    Nathan, Emma and Josh went for an epic paddleboard around the bay, playing with the eagle rays in the shallows by the mangroves for a long time.

    After being threatened by Vela that we only had pumpkin for dinner, we endeavored to catch a couple of fish for dinner. We managed three small Kahawai which Vela turned into a delicious meal.

    We finished the night playing some board games and polishing off a bottle of red wine, when a gust blew Emma's paddleboard off the boat, resulting in an all hands on deck rescue mission (which was successful).
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  • Boxing Day at Stevie's

    26. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    We woke up in the morning to blue sky! We hadn't seen any for a couple of days so Nathan got excited to do a load of washing, unfortunately the blue sky didn't last long...

    Leftover croissants for breakfast while we motored over to Stevie's to take Emma and Josh for a snorkel. We shot a couple of fish, with both Jamie and Vela shooting their first fish with a spear gun! Vela shot a nice Red Moki (yes we known you shouldn't shoot them, but there are heaps around and it was a good first fish for Vela!) And Jamie shot a big fat Silver Drummer. We experimented with the Red Moki as sashimi, but quickly decided it was better cooked, and the Silver Drummer, while not the most luxurious fish, was edible in a curry for dinner.

    We pulled out the headsail on the way back to Whangaroa where we said goodbye to Emma and Josh. Both enjoyed their short stay, but unfortunately got a little queasy from the waves.

    Now we're completely sick of the damp drizzle, but the forecast is looking up for the next few days, so hopefully Nathan will be able to get that washing dry...
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  • Whangaroa to Doubtless Bay

    27. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    This morning we finally left Whangaroa to continue our journey north. Sunny weather again so Nathan re-ran yesterday's washing and managed to get it dry today (yay!).

    No wind so we motored to Waimahana Bay where we stopped for lunch and a swim. The water was a little bit green and we were all keen for a bit of snorkeling so we headed around the corner into Taemaro Bay where the visibility was better.

    We checked under every boulder and in every crevice, but couldn't find a crayfish for the table. Nathan managed to shoot a Butterfish (he missed a shot on a second Butterfish - grr) and a Pig Fish, while Jamie also pulled in a Pig Fish on a line. It was good to be able to put some fish in the fridge as we've got 8 people on the boat from tomorrow until the new year.

    To top everything off, Jamie hooked a donkey of a Kahawai as we were heading into Takerau Bay. The Kahawai almost spooled him (crappy old reel) but we managed to get the yacht stopped and the fish turned towards us. Nathan thought it might have been a rat Kingy with how it was fighting, but no it was a big fat Kahawai.

    Once we were anchored in Takerau, Nathan filleted up the fish, most for the fridge but with one of the Pig Fish going in the hot pot for dinner. Another nice surprise was a couple of big fat golden bars (roe) in the Kahawai, which also made its way into the hotpot.

    During dinner, the line at the back of the boat went off and Nathan reeled in a nice little trevally which we added to our fridge stocks.

    Afterwards, we settled in and enjoyed a nice little sunset, which we haven't seen for a few days. Looking forward to having a bunch of our mates on board for the next few days!
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  • Whatuwhiwhi

    28. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    This morning was a little bit of boat admin (cleaning) before we made a short hop over to Mangonui. Today we were greeted by an additional five crew members; Daniel returned with Atusa, as well as Max, Jenny and Nathan M.

    Max arrived first, but after a big night previously he went downstairs to rest. While we waited for everyone else to show up, we were treated to a spectacle as a pod of orca showed up. The orca hung around for about 30 minutes, and had upwards of 8 individuals, including a very large male and a couple of juveniles.

    Afterwards Daniel and Atusa arrived and Nathan treated the team to an ice cream, Jamie was particularly happy with his lemonade popsicle (cheap date).

    Nathan and Jenny arrived with all the provisions for the boat, and after we had packed everything and everyone into Starling, we set off for the Karikari peninsula. After about an hour and a half of motoring through a slightly uncomfortable sea sea-state and some fog, our first spot was not particularly comfortable with the boat lying perpendicular to the swell. So we tucked in a bit closer at Whatuwhiwhi and found a flat anchorage for the evening.

    Another wicked meal by Vela with sous chef Max and everyone set off to bed for an early night. Fingers crossed for some decent weather tomorrow and some snorkeling!
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  • Whatuwhiwi - Karikari Peninsula

    29. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    After a very peaceful night, we woke up to some beautiful cafe quality coffees before heading for a brief sail along the peninsula. We returned to the bay where we stopped briefly last night, and found it a much more comfortable anchorage with less swell and a better wind direction.

    Nathan and Daniel went for a dive, with Nathan M and Jenny snorkeling nearby and Jamie mothering the group from the dinghy. After a pretty quiet start, as we all swam towards the headland, the water came to life with fish of all different varieties. 2-spot Demezel, Koheru, Snapper, Red Moki, Butterfish, and even a school of Kingfish. Daniel managed to put a shaft through a nice Kingfish, much to everyone's excitement!

    Wanting to contribute, Nathan ducked back into the water and found a brace of beautiful butterfish to add to the haul. Both Nathan and Daniel also shot a Koheru each, rumored to make delicious sashimi (and proven to be true!)

    The afternoon was spent dealing to the fish, and finding some neighbors to deliver some fresh Kingfish. There was also some paddleboarding and swimming. For dinner, Daniel cooked up the Butterfish and Kingfish for some wraps.

    We were treated to a gorgeous sunset, and we all know "red at night, shepherds delight", so fingers crossed for an awesome day tomorrow!
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  • Maitai Bay

    30. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Beach day!

    With the best weather forecast for a couple of days, the team voted to head around the peninsula and spend some time at Maitai Bay.

    We stopped on the way for a dive, hoping to chance across a couple of crayfish. Unfortunately no luck on that, but Daniel did shoot a couple of pig fish for lunch.

    After a couple of hours chilling at the beach, we headed back to the southern side of the Karikari Peninsula for some shelter (it was a bit too rolly at Maitai Bay to spend the night).

    Quiet day ahead of what will likely be a big one tomorrow...
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  • New Years Eve! Whatuwhiwhi

    31. december 2023, New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    After breakfast, we had one last hunt for some crayfish on the Karikari peninsula (unsuccessful) before it was time to find a spot to anchor up for our NYE party.

    We headed further west back to Whatuwhiwhi where the water was flat and we had shelter from the 20kt northwesterly wind.

    Junk food, drinks, disco lights and music was the order of the evening. And as a crescendo to our new year's count down, Nathan M and Daniel went for a midnight splash.

    Good fun, good vibes, lots of laughs and an all round awesome way to see out 2023!
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  • New Years Day

    1. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    This morning a S/SW wind picked up, so we headed across Doubtless Bay to Takerau Bay. We chilled out, recuperating from last night, and Nathan and Daniel went for a dive, hoping to run into a school of Kingfish or other nice eating fish or locate the eligible crayfish. Unfortunately the water was a little unproductive, and we came away with just a couple of Parore.

    Afterwards we headed into Mangonui to drop off Daniel, Atusa, Nathan M, Jenny, and Max, with just Nathan, Jamie and Vela staying on board for the passage down the West Coast to Nelson. After topping the fuel tank up (once Nathan finally figured out how to put in the right pump number...) we pulled out some sails and headed out of Doubtless Bay to spend the night in Maitai Bay. A few other boats are anchored in here with us tonight as well.

    We will have a bit of a planning session tonight for the journey South. But the brief version is that we'll head around North Cape and Cape Reinga, before heading south down to Nelson. The trip from Maitai Bay is roughly 470 miles which we expect to take around 3-4 days. The weather window is looking really good and we are excited to keep exploring our beautiful country!

    Time to get a good night's rest tonight, and we'll touch base again once we're back in cellphone reception.
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  • West Coast Day 1 (around the top)

    2. januar 2024, Tasman Sea ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Today was D-day. The start of the big part of our adventure, and our longest, most intimidating sail yet. Around the top of the North Island, down the West Coast, past Taranaki, and finishing up in Nelson.

    After spending a disappointingly rocky night in Maitai Bay, we completed a few last minute preparations before pulling up the anchor; securing the dinghy, tying some jackstays (to tether onto if we have to go to the bow) and a spot of light breakfast.

    A very light easterly wind greeted us, and we pulled the mainsail out to assist the engine, heading for North Cape at about 6 knots. Our maths have us arriving into Nelson late Thursday/early Friday - assuming favorable conditions. However we are prepared for the journey to take longer, and set our Coastguard Trip Tracker App to expect us in around Friday evening.

    Unfortunately, conditions did not start out exactly how we hoped, we seemed to have got our timing all wrong and were consistently pushing into 1kt of tide. It felt a bit like sailing through mud.

    We rounded North Cape at about 3pm and turned our bow towards Cape Reinga, about 15 miles away. We now had a nice 10kt northerly breeze, which encouraged us to roll out our big headsail (genoa). The nowcasting was still advising that there was 15-20kt from the South at Cape Reinga, so we were on the lookout for the change to come through.

    Vela was downstairs and heard a mayday call over the radio from a boat somewhere near the Three Kings. We were over 6 hours sailing to get to the area, and with other vessels nearer and better suited for a rescue attempt, we did not respond. After listening in to the chatter, all vessels were eventually told to stand down. The details were a little unclear but we were advised all were safe, possibly a false alarm.

    With Nathan on the helm, the wind went light and a very obvious new breeze from the South was coming in. We tacked the headsail across, and hooked into a beautiful 12kt southerly. The breeze continued to build to about 15kt, so we rolled the big sail away and pulled out our smaller headsail (jib). It was a good thing we had plenty of breeze, our speed through the water was consistently over 8kt, but the tide against us was sometimes closer to 3kt. The mud we were sailing through earlier had turned to quicksand!

    The closer we got to Cape Reinga, the rougher the seas got. It really is a nasty piece of water. There were large breakers a long way out past the Cape, so we stayed well clear.

    We rounded about 6.30pm, and after some obligatory selfies, Nathan handed over the helm and braved going downstairs to cook some Spaghetti Bolognese for dinner.

    Afterwards, we settled into an upwind sail in tricky conditions. Heading mostly Southwest, hoping to find a Westerly change to take back in towards the coast. We felt a little behind where we expected to be, but all onboard were safe and well, and we were mostly headed in the right direction!
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  • West Coast Day 2 (the slog begins)

    3. januar 2024, Tasman Sea ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Today was a bit of a grind. We settled into our watch shifts nicely - essentially three 4 hour shifts; 4 hours on watch, 4 hours off watch (but upstairs and ready if needed) and 4 hours asleep (only called upon if necessary). We also decided to split the 4 hours on watch and 4 hours off watch into two 2 hour segments, trying to break up the monotony and tiredness of hours straight concentration behind the wheel.

    The watch system worked really well, and we all got in our rest. Those who were on watch were greeted with plenty of wildlife, dolphins (or maybe small whales, difficult to tell from a distance), Sunfish, petrels and other seabirds, and even a visit from an albatross!

    Unfortunately, the predicted Westerly change did not come through, and we spent most of the day tacking upwind, trying to make the most of the light and shifty winds. We did manage to turn the motor off for a few hours and we enjoyed the serenity. The water had turned an amazing azure blue, and the only other sign of human life was the occasional plane overhead leaving a vapour trail.

    Around 5.30pm, with the wind lightening further, we decided to roll away the genoa (which we pulled out early in the morning as the wind had lightened), and we turned the motor on, pointing the bow towards Taranaki. While it had been nice trying to sail, it was feeling like we weren't making any ground towards our destination even though we were traveling at close to 6kt. This speed meant we were only heading towards our destination at 3kt at best as we had to zig zag our way South.

    With the headsails both away and the engine on, we were making between 5 and 6kt directly towards Taranaki which was ticking the miles off significantly faster.

    Status quo was maintained through the night watch, and we came up with a more realistic arrival time into Nelson of late Friday or early Saturday morning.
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  • West Coast Day 3 (making miles)

    4. januar 2024, Tasman Sea ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The wind completely disappeared today. Don't worry, we expected and planned for this! We put the headsails away for most of the day and motored straight towards Taranaki with just the mainsail out.

    We were once again visited by a couple of albatross, which are simply majestic, beautiful animals. They glide across the water with almost no effort, turning to "surf" down the faces of the waves.

    After whipping up some "zhoushed up" 2 minute noodles (with meatballs and some spring onions), the team took a breather and put our swim gear on. Safety first though, we slowed the boat down to less than 1kt, had two lines trailing in the water for safety and a third line ready to throw if needed, and always kept one person on the boat. We then proceeded to enjoy a dip in the gorgeous blue waters of the Tasman Sea.

    The water was warm and clear, but at 1500m deep there was little chance of seeing the bottom. After a couple of dives, a short drag behind the boat and some obligatory manu's, we climbed back on board, dried off, opened a couple of cold ones, and continued South.

    The forecast Westerly breeze started to fill in, so we pulled the big genoa back out and made good progress, at times cracking 8kt. Unfortunately the breeze didn't build as we had hoped and we've been averaging closer to 6.5kt since. Regardless, we made a heap of miles in the right direction today, and the mood on board has been very light and happy.

    Plan is to head in close to the Taranaki coast to get some updated weather forecasts, and update family, friends, and Coastguard of our whereabouts and eta into Nelson. Fingers crossed we'll get a beautiful sunrise with Mount Taranaki in the background in the morning!
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  • West Coast Day 4 (arrival in Nelson!)

    5. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We woke up this morning to a bit of a grey drizzly day. Unfortunately we didn't get a sunrise over Mount Taranaki, but still managed a nice photo. We did manage to find some signal off the Taranaki coast to update friends, family and Coastguard of our whereabouts and wellbeing.

    After checking the updated forecasts, we found that the last little rush of a 15kt Westerly into Nelson wasn't going to happen. A low pressure system seemed to be dragging the wind away with it, leaving us with a 5-10kt Southwesterly. Unfortunately this is a tricky angle to sail at, and means that we will have to keep the motor on to make good time into Nelson.

    We threaded our way through the oil platforms and a couple of big cargo/tanker ships, and kept chugging South. It was nice to see a bit of humanity, even though it was very industrial. Vela cooked up some veggies with chicken for lunch, good to fend off the scurvy and get away from the standard snack food grub.

    As we welcomed Farewell Spit... we started to encounter some wildlife. We saw a pod of what we think were pilot whales, Dusky dolphins, numerous albatross, seals, and a couple of pods of other whales which we couldn't identify as we only saw them spouting off in the distance.

    To help pass the time, and because it was well overdue, Nathan got Jamie to give him a haircut, looking semi-respectable and suitable for contact with civilization again.

    Once we got close enough to shore and had some decent reception, we were able to contact Nelson marina and book a berth for a few nights. We are planning to catch up with some more friends in Nelson and are likely to be land based for a couple of days. Our current ETA is to be tucked away in our berth by 3am tomorrow morning.

    We can't wait to get our hands on a proper barista coffee and some eggs bene tomorrow morning!
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  • Nelson Day 1 (food & beer)

    6. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We got into Nelson marina at 3am in the morning, and after a short celebratory rum, we put our heads down for a nap. We already had plans to catch up with Amin and Cil (who live in Nelson) and were woken by a phone call at 10.30am to catch up.

    After quickly sorting everything with the marina, we packed the boat and ourselves up and met up with Amin and Cil. Straight to a lovely little cafe for breakfast and coffee before spending the afternoon/evening at a couple of the local breweries.

    Amin and Cil gave us the full sales pitch for moving to Nelson (we're still not convinced they aren't on a commission from Nelson city council...) Amin has a wider tour of the Nelson area planned for us tomorrow.
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  • Nelson Day 2 (Kaiteri, icecream & beer)

    7. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    This morning we were greeted with a beautiful, sunny, blue sky Nelson day. Our amazing hosts, Amin and Cil, prepared coffee and breakfast for us, including home made bread.

    Afterwards, Cil was unfortunately called in to work, but Amin played an amazing tour guide for us, taking us for a quick walk around downtown before heading out to Kaiteri, stopping at a little river for a walk along the way.

    After soaking in the sun on the golden sands at Kaiteri, and a dip in the water, we stopped at the Riwaka Hotel for a beer and a late lunch. A final treat of real fruit ice cream before heading back into Nelson.

    Unfortunately we said goodbye to Jamie today, who has to be back at work tomorrow. Jamie has been with us for the last 4 weeks (since that awful rocky night in Tutukaka) and has been awesome to have on board. It's been awesome having Jamie's competence on board continue to grow, to the point where it felt like Vela and I had a personal driver, only getting the wheel handed to us if we were getting close to things we might hit, or a tricky anchorage. We will definitely miss having Jamie on board, but there is a chance he joins us again for a shorter stint once we get closer to Auckland.

    We ended the evening back at Amin & Cil's with wine and cheese on the lawn before retiring inside.
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  • Nelson Day 3 (attempted departure)

    8. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Today we were lucky to have Amin take a day off work (he didn't seem too upset at having to do this) to drive us around Nelson and prepare for setting sail towards the Abel Tasman. We stopped at a couple of local fruit & vege shops which had an amazing array of locally grown produce, including fresh milk straight from the farm (can't wait to make some flat whites with that!)

    After we had gathered everything together and had one of the best butter chicken pies, we headed to the boat. Unfortunately this was where we ran into a hiccup.

    When Nathan started the engine, we were greeted with a lovely, long, loud warning tone. After checking the panel, we had a battery warning light. On further investigation, Nathan discovered that we had no reading from our engine battery. This seemed very strange, but we were able to start our engine anyway so Nathan voted to head off to the Abel Tasman regardless and figure it all out once we were there. Intelligent and clever as always, Vela asked "what about our anchor" and we quickly scrapped the plan to head off as we had no power to our anchor winch... Bugger.

    On even closer inspection, Nathan managed to find a blown fuse. So thinking a replacement fuse was all we needed, off we trotted to Burnsco. Unfortunately the new fuse immediately blew, so the problem was deeper than we were able to diagnose.

    Some frantic googling and phone calls ensued and we managed to find a marine electrician who wasn't still on holiday and able to promptly pop down to visit us. After a couple of hours and managing to hunt out some electrical diagrams from online, our electrician had to call in the big guns (his boss) to help him figure out the issue.

    Eventually they were able to pinpoint the issue to the extractor fan in the engine bay. The extractor fan creates a negative pressure environment in the engine bay, ensuring no nasty fumes leak into the cabins. The bearing in the fan (which is 8 years old at this point) had given way, drawing too much power and causing the fuse to blow every time we tried to turn the engine on.

    By this time, it was too late to get hold of a replacement fan, so we booked another night at the marina and will have a new fan installed in the morning before setting off.

    Boats... Right?

    After all the excitement, it was time for Vela and Nathan to make a decision as to the rest of our journey. We have two options available to us:
    Option 1 - continue South to explore Stewart Island and Fiordland
    Option 2 - spend more time in the Abel Tasman and Marlborough Sounds before continuing North

    After some serious consideration, we had more or less reached a decision when there was a knock on the hull. A man named Bill who also owns a Oceanis 45 (exact same make and model as Starling) had come over to say hello. After chatting for a bit, it turned out Bill was an experienced boaty and had cruised Stewart Island in the past. We asked his opinion on our decision and he said we would be too rushed to do Stewart Island and Fiordland justice. So that confirmed our thoughts and we've made the decision to keep our trip to the top of the South Island before heading up the east coast of the North Island. This allows us to spend more time in cruising hot spots such as the Coromandel and Great Barrier Island, and a possible third attempt at the Poor Knights.

    Afterwards, we invited Amin and Cil down to the boat to celebrate and enjoyed a wine together while watching the sunset.
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  • Nelson - Stilwell Bay

    9. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We started off the morning with our friendly electricians paying us a visit to install our new engine bay extraction fan. This took about 10 minutes and once it was done, we filled up our water and diesel tanks and set sail for the Abel Tasman.

    After heading out of the shelter of Nelson marina and the port, we were greeted with a lovely 15kt Southerly which had us flying across the bay to Abel Tasman at nearly 9kts. About 30 minutes in, we hit a convergence zone as the sea breeze filled in and we ended up sailing in a 10-15kt northerly for the rest of the way (still doing about 8.5kt). Photos 4 and 5 show the before and after of this wind shift.

    We pulled in just south of Adele Island around 1pm for lunch ("Chinese flag" soup with noodles) and a spot of fishing, before we moved further in, to Stilwell Bay. We enjoyed a dip in the beautiful water and a paddleboard around the bay.

    After dinner (hotpot with some fish from the freezer), Lissa and Andrew from Cape Landing (a Lagoon 42), who are undertaking a very similar trip to us, joined us for a couple of drinks. Nathan knows Lissa from when they both used to work for LiveSailDie, when Nathan would drive Lissa around in a RIB to photograph yachting events. It was really nice to be able to catch up with familiar faces who are doing similar things, and share our "war stories".

    Tomorrow we're looking forward to trying to catch some fish and continue exploring the Abel Tasman!
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  • Stilwell Bay - Onetahuti

    10. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We started our day off right by jumping ship to visit Lissa and Andrew onboard Cape Landing - espresso machine in tow! Nathan whipped up coffee for everyone, using the fresh straight-from-the-cow milk we picked up in Nelson. Vela was rather impressed with the cruising catamaran setup and is now "encouraging" Nathan to get a better paying job so it might open up this option in the future.

    Afterwards we headed back to Starling to get a bit of work done before heading deeper into the Abel Tasman for some peace and quiet. I have to say there are a few things that have surprised me about the management of one of our most beautiful national parks... Ski lanes inside the national park, motor boats, jetskis and water taxis screaming around all over the place with no regard for the 5kt rules. I have to say I don't feel it showcases the beautiful nature of the Abel Tasman to overseas visitors in the way that it should...

    So Nathan went for a quick dive to gather some mussels (thanks Lissa and Andrew for the hint!) then we headed for Onetahuti. Inside the Tonga Island marine reserve area we found a much more peaceful anchorage to enjoy, and we cooked up the mussels for a delicious lunch, especially enjoying the big fat orange ones.

    We spent the afternoon relaxing, swimming, and taking a nice walk along the beach, leaving only footprints behind. We were absorbed by the beauty around us, with braided rivers being etched into the sand, music of the tiny waves breaking onto the beach, streams of bait fish no more than a meter into the water, and even a big stingray gliding past.
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  • Onetahuti - Watering Cove

    11. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 23 °C

    The forecast today was for gusts up to 35kt, so we headed off to find a bit of shelter. Vela also had some work to do, so we had to find a spot with some wifi - which unfortunately meant heading closer to civilization.

    The best spot we found with a bit of shelter and some decent reception was Watering Cove, so we put the anchor down and pulled out the laptops. It turned into an absolute scorcher of a day, so we spent most of it hiding from the heat, encouraging the breeze to blow through the boat.

    Nathan's fishing exploits culminated in catching a starfish, and a bunch of seagrass. The waters don't seem to be laden with fish down here, possibly a result of all the motor boats blasting up and down the coast...

    Once most of our work was done and it got a little bit cooler, we took the dinghy ashore and walked 500m up the hill to find a view. We spent over an hour enjoying the scenery and getting artsy with some photography.

    Afterwards we headed back to the boat and Vela cooked up her always amazing pork belly with some potatoes and egg plant on rice.
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  • Fisherman Island

    12. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This morning, Nathan was very keen to head somewhere that might yield a fish for the freezer. So we upped anchor and headed for Fisherman Island - with a name like that we're sure to find something right?

    Fisherman Island is gorgeous, with amazing white sandy beaches and a sheltered little anchorage. Nathan got the rods in the water and opted for the couch fishing method, where he could chill on the squabs in the shade.

    After a while, with next to no action, Nathan chucked the paddleboard in the water and went for an exploration mission. The southern side of the island was truly beautiful, with rock arches, still water and eagle rays cruising the shallows.

    Heading back to the boat, Nathan pulled the line in with the soft bait, and finally enticed a bite. Whatever was on the other end was a reasonable size, pulling line and running all over the place. Vela got the net ready as it got closer to the boat, but unfortunately the hook pulled out and we never got a look at what it was. Best guesses are; a decent trevally, a small kingfish, or a small stingray. We spent the rest of the afternoon thinking about "the one that got away".

    Around dinner time, we made the short jump over to Marahau to meet Amin and Cil who are joining us for the weekend. In hindsight we wouldn't do another pickup from there due to the very long flat beach, meaning pulling the dinghy a long way through the sand - or maybe we'd plan around the tides a bit better...

    We had dinner at Hooked on Marahau and then motored over to Adele Island to spend the evening.
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  • Bark Bay

    13. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    With everybody freshly caffeinated, we made the move out to Bark Bay. We stopped at the reef to try our hand at fishing, with limited success. We pulled in an undersized blue cod and a small Koheru. We opted to fillet the Koheru for a small taste of sashimi, which was delicious even if not very filling.

    We then moved into Bark Bay itself and set up camp for the afternoon/evening. We enjoyed the water and some some drinks in the sun, including delicious local beer and Pina colada's. And after such an exhausting morning/afternoon we took a well deserved nap while hiding from the sun.

    We got a little too competitive with some card games, so Vela took the tension down a notch with a delicious dinner of Kingfish, fried potatoes with Chinese spice, and some cabbage.

    A delicious dessert wine supplied by Amin and Cil and another round of Pina colada's rounded out the rest of our evening.
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  • Bark Bay Beach/Lagoon

    14. januar 2024, New Zealand ⋅ 🌬 21 °C

    After spending yesterday enjoying the waters of Bark Bay, today we decided to explore the beach, lagoon and waterfalls. After waiting for the tide to fill the lagoon, we launched the dinghy and headed for the golden sands of Bark Bay. We motored straight up the lagoon to the swing bridge by Falls river where Vela jumped on the paddleboard to make the most of the flat water.

    We navigated the entirety of the two estuaries before landing on the golden sands and swimming in the warm waters of the lagoon. Amin and Cil both had a go on the paddleboard, but spent more time sitting down or swimming than standing up!

    We headed back to Starling and made some lunch - beef burger patties on wraps (because the burger buns had started to go mouldy). By this time the wind had built, and it was reaching a point where we wanted to move Starling to a more sheltered anchorage.

    We upped anchor as the wind was really getting up, and headed back down the coast for some shelter at Observation Beach, inside Adele Island. On the way, we recorded 34kt of wind at the top of the mast (which is notorious for under reading) and saw 41kt from the now cast at Separation Point. The wind was blowing us along at almost 5kt without a motor or any sails up.

    Fortunately it was much more sheltered at Observation Beach, so we relaxed with a couple more card games while we waited for the tide to improve at Marahau. After a seamless delivery of Amin and Cil back onto dry land, we spent the night at Observation Beach, enjoying a moody sunset which cast some amazing yellow light onto the clouds.
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