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I've had the experience of a lifetime, sailing on board the Norwegian square rigger, Statsraad Lehmkuhl, in the Tall Ships Races Cruise-in-Company. Fredrikstad to Lerwick.
Thanks to the amazing charity, Sail Training Shetland and local sponsors! Les mer
  • Matthew Dorrat

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  • Matthew DorratReisendeTall ships adventure

    Slops chest

    19. juli 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    This afternoon the slops chest was opened. This is the on board shop. Items for sale included alcohol, cigarettes and sweeties. I bought some haribo and Norwegian chocolate.
    Later in the evening we played a lot of card games. Pig, Palace and blackjack.
    The merchandise store should be open in a day or 2. I'm hoping to buy a few things from it.    Les mer

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  • Matthew DorratReisendeTall ships adventure

    Dolphins, knots and drills

    20. juli 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    Our night watch was very quiet, and spent doing nothing more than sitting around after carrying out 1 hour of physical watch duty.
    This time I was on fire watch with Alan.
    We had to visit numerous locations, check them and report back to the Officer of the Watch. The only activity above deck consisted of trainees going aloft and along the yard of the main sail. I also helped clean the Men's toilets, this is red Watch's cleaning role.

    Our second watch was much better, my favourite so far.
    I was on lookout with Ava for the first hour. The wind was nice and fresh and it wasn't raining. Nothing came over the horizon for the entire hour. But we were lucky to spot some dolphins swimming across the Bow. This activity really made me glad to be alive. Living and sailing such an old and graceful vessel is just awesome.

    (some of life's best moments are those in your memory. These are real experiences even if they may lack the physical visual provided in a photo.)

    The rest of the watch involved learning to tie knots.
    Figure of 8, Clewline, clove, sheet bend, bowline, reef.
    Then after that, the entire ship held a fire drill, where the crew practiced with fire hoses spraying into the sea. This was followed by an exercise of abandoning ship. The entire ship's company mustered on deck and survival suits were handed out to all.
    The watch ended with snack time at 3, where pancakes were on offer.

    The ship's merchandise shop was open today! I bought a One Ocean expedition t-shirt.

    We finished the day playing more card games and monopoly.    Les mer

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  • Matthew DorratReisendeTall ships adventure

    Rigs, Staysails and brass polishing

    21. juli 2023, North Sea ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    As we mustered we could see the lights from multiple rigs in the distance. This was the Ekofisk oil field. One of the largest in the North Sea. The main sails were furled and the engine speed increased due to changing wind direction, an oncoming storm and the need to keep a precise course to avoid rig safety zones.
    Our main task involved stowing the staysails. These are sails on the stays, cables that hold the masts in place.
    I held and gave out slack from the sheet for the main topmast staysail. Once the sail was down, a group of us climbed onto the galley roof to fold the sail into itself. We used the seam as a mark of the 'bag' to pack the sail up into.
    We also went over some additional knots but it was difficult because we were tired.

    The second watch involved cleaning the engine cover. It started nice and dry, even a peerie bit warm. But it barely lasted half an hour. For the next hour I was on helm watch. We had to keep to a course of 275°. I had a really interesting conversation with Nico. He explained the vision behind and preparations carried out for the OneOcean expedition. He had a few Holiday recommendations too. Recommending visits to New York and Austin; Cape Town, Mauritius, and Fiji.

    In 2025 Statsraad lehmkuhl will be sailing the Northwest passage!
    Nico's also been to Shetland 14 times.

    The Statsraad is usually chartered by the naval academy then sails to Shetland, followed by fjord cruising, tall ships then back to fjords, Shetland and then dry dock.

    Nico also mentioned watching the Shetland crime drama. And about wishing to watch Oppenheimer in Imax.

    After Helm watch we had another round of 'rope safari' to test our knowledge.

    After coffee I volunteered to do some brass polishing. All we had to do was polish the door thresholds at the entrance to the crew quarters. I worked until I could see my face in it.

    Finally, we were given a talk about sailors' tattoos. Each one is linked to mileage and notable journeys such as rounding Cape horn.    Les mer

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  • Matthew DorratReisendeTall ships adventure
    1

    Tours, timings and movie night

    22. juli 2023, North Sea ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We all mustered at 11:50pm norwegian time. But Blue watch didn't finish until 00:20. But the watches each shifted back 20 minutes to align with British summer time. So it was a very complicated night.
    I was on lookout watch with herman from Southern Norway. He told me the best way to cook lobster.

    Tonight we had been promised a tour of the ship's crew quarters. It's surprising how peerie the cabins are. We started by going aft along the crew corridor to the Captain's stateroom, followed by the crew mess. It was really nice and cosy. We also went to the foremast accommodation underneath the fo'c'sle.

    After our tour, our watch leader's assistant set up a projector to watch a Cape horn sailing film. It focused on an American sailor filming on board the peking square rigger from Europe to Chile, Via Cape Horn. The film Highlights just how people coped in an age before health and safety and modern technology.
    Kristian continued by recounting Statsraad's 2 journeys round the cape. The first time there was no wind and then the second rounding had a very strong headwind, enough to slam ship if off course.

    There was no second watch at 12pm as we arrived Aberdeen this morning.    Les mer

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  • Matthew DorratReisendeTall ships adventure

    Aberdeen

    22. juli 2023, Skottland ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    We have successfully crossed the skaggerak and the North Sea to arrive in Aberdeen. We had to wait until Border Force gave us the all clear to disembark.

    The Shetland trainees had a group photo at the helm. We then left the ship and were met by a welcoming party handing out wristbands and tourist info.
    The wristbands acted as a free pass to all sorts of different activities.
    Firstly we walked to Aberdeen sports village to play badminton. In the afternoon we played Adventure golf and ten pin bowling. I love bowling!
    I got a strike and a few spares, winning overall with a score of 119.

    Had tea at Nando's and chilled with some coffee and hot chocolate at Costa before enjoying watching The Barbie movie.    Les mer

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  • Matthew DorratReisendeTall ships adventure

    Bye bye Aberdeen, Next stop Lerwick

    23. juli 2023, Skottland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Leaving Aberdeen after a short stay. I am disappointed that we couldn't visit any Norwegian ports but I'm looking forward to the voyage to Lerwick.

    Just after 3pm all hands were called to muster on deck. We had a roll call and then were tasked with bracing the sails. Bracing involves changing the angle of the horizontal yards that sails hang from.

    We were meant to leave at 4pm but waited while the Northlink ferry, and a cruise ship had departed. The hours went by but we still couldn't leave. As the pilot was unhappy with the access arrangements on Lehmkuhl. So we had more down time in the banjer. After tea I saw that the carpenter had crafted a new suitable rope ladder, it was eventually put to use when we left after 8pm. The ladder was actually gifted to the pilot after he rejoined the pilot boat.    Les mer

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  • Matthew DorratReisendeTall ships adventure

    Sailing, history and a cold wind

    24. juli 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    Leaving the Scottish coast behind. It's a horribly cold and windy evening. We've got the lights of Peterhead as company.

    Tonight we were told the history and exciting future of Statsraad lehmkuhl.
    First of all some background into the type of ship Statsraad eventually became.

    In the late 1800s Norwegian school ships started to be set up. This didn't begin in Bergen. The aim of teaching people on these ships was primarily to improve the lives of young men.

    Built in Bremmerhavn by an archduke who named it after himself.
    She trained merchant seamen during first world war and was taken by Britain as a victory prize in 1920.
    The following year Kristofer Lehmkuhl who was a cabinet minister (statsraad) bought her for a vey large sum of money. When bought, the ship was state of the art with a diesel engine. 90% of her steel is original.
    School ship.
    Renamed Westwarts & painted black in WW2.
    Supported by another business man.
    Did training in 1960s-70s. There is one guy on board with us who was one of the last boys on ship.
    Late 1970, businessman went bankrupt but did not want the ship to be taken. So it was sold into the Statsraad Lehmkuhl foundation for 1 NOK.

    She only sailed in the summer season. There was no fully employed crew until 2000s. When the Norwegian naval academy signed a contract for use of the ship 3 months every year. Recently Dutch Navy has signed a contract with statsraad foundation too.

    Future is as important as the past.
    One ocean expedition, was a vision from the director of the lehmkuhl foundation.
    The scientific paper from the expedition will be published in the Autumn.

    Future plan for expedition to Northwest passage in 2025.
    After the talk, I asked Kristian if there was any more information about the next expedition and he explained the current plan which will be confirmed soon.
    The ship will leave Bergen in April after the one ocean week, Travel to tromso, Svalbard then Nice for the one ocean conference. After that she will head North to Nuuk in Greenland, followed by Halifax in Canada. And then she will enter the Northwest Passage.

    I was on buoy watch for the last hour of our watch period. It was really cold, but I'm glad I was at the most sheltered part of the ship.

    The 2nd watch was still windy but bright. Although we did have rain in the first hour.

    We are setting sails today. We have set the lower and upper topsails. Stump & most in Norsk. This involved work on the yards. So a number of trainees have been aloft in the rigging.
    My job has involved the ropes on deck, releasing buntlines and hauling sheets.

    In the last hour I was at the helm with Eirin from Norway. We chatted about school, sustainability, learning English and learning Norwegian. Her friend spoke better English but had learned it from watching the Kardashians.
    We started with the course 035° and then the captain told us to adjust to 020° and finally to 025°.

    P. S. I just ate the best cooked salmon ever, for tea tonight.    Les mer

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  • Matthew DorratReisendeTall ships adventure

    Engine room, sailor training & les Mis!

    25. juli 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Tonight's watch was not as dark because we are continuing to move North.

    One of the Ordinary seamen Christian told us how to become a sailor in Norway.
    It generally consists of electrical/mechanical studies in 1st year and
    studying deck and engine for half a year before then having to choose one.
    This is equal to becoming an ordinary seafarer.
    To become an able bodied seafarer, 2 years must be spent on a school ship.

    Next you can do vocational higher education or university.

    Christian sang master of the house from Les Mis. He'd previously been on stage performing in front of thousands.

    I was on lookout with felix from Bergen. His parents are sailing across to Lerwick in their yacht. He has visited Lerwick once before and thinks it is very nice.

    The dawn was lovely. Especially the daylight this far north.

    2nd watch.
    Sustainability talk, engine room tour, taking in sails and wearing.

    We were given a short introductory talk about Sustainability by Sunniva an officer on board. Her knowledge is in navigation but she also has the role of sustainability officer.
    We were told the definition of sustainable development mentioned in the Brundtland report and discussed ways to help protect the environment. We also looked at the 3 pillars of sustainability: governance, environment and Social.
    Sustainability is an important part of Statsraad's current and future plans. Sailing ships like Statsraad are very green at a time when the International maritime organisation is clamping down on the biggest polluters.
    It was all very familiar to me, from my Sustainable development lectures at uni.

    Next we took down the main course, or the mainsail on the main mast. I was on fire watch, so didn't have to do too much of the sail work.

    11 of us visited the engine room this afternoon. Statsraad was one of the first school ships to have an engine. There is one engine and 2 diesel generators. These provide electricity when the engine isn't running. The engine also heats the hot water.

    I resurfaced in time for 3pm coffee break where we ate the best banana bread I've ever had. It's so much more moist. Not dry in the slightest.
    Finally we had to wear the ship. This involves hauling the braces to change the angle of the sails. This is different from a tack because we do it with the wind and have a wider turn.
    I was on the main brann brace or the topgallant in English. It was hard work, but worth it.

    Before tea one of the members of white watch gave a talk about his experience as a young guy on the school ship in the 1970s. He joined statsraad lehmkuhl in Bergen on a voyage organised by his school Oceanic in New York. They sailed from November 1972 for 7 months visiting france, the Gambia, Brazil and the Caribbean before returning to Bergen via the Azores. It was notable for being the first voyage to include women and also a newly installed hydraulic steering system.    Les mer

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  • Matthew DorratReisendeTall ships adventure

    Last watch & arriving in Lerwick

    26. juli 2023, North Sea ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    This watch started like every other but today's is the last watch as we will arrive in Lerwick by mid morning. I had my last physical watch, at the helm with John. We could see Sumburgh head lighthouse and the red lights from the radar domes.

    Earlier we took down the staysails. It was difficult to haul in the mizzen fall. We were all really tired. But eventually got it done. We did the same again for the main Staysail. And I worked with some norwegians to pack & fold the mizzen Staysails.
    You could tell everyone was ready for shore, we were all in high spirits as the last 20 minutes counted down. And we had some great laughs below deck discussing plans for what we'll do first when we moor. I've had an absolute ball. I wish it could have been longer! I've met so many great people. It's sad to leave them soon.

    We were awoken by funny norwegian music at 7:50 this morning. After a quick breakfast we started to give our Banjer a good spring clean. We finally arrived alongside Victoria pier at 9:30 am. We couldn't get off yet. At 10:30 a full muster was held on deck, where the captain gave a short speech thanking and congratulating us trainees on our trip. We all descended into the forward banjer where we each received a diploma and a statsraad lehmkuhl badge from the Sergeant, Mons. It was an amazing feeling to step up in front of all your peers clapping and encouraging you.

    I got selfies with Alan from Newcastle and Hans from Bergen before they left.    Les mer

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