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France to Spain 2019
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  • Kate Boyd

France to Spain 2019

Motorhome adventure to northern Spain via French Atlantic coast Read more
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    Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Adios

    July 3, 2019 in England ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Packed up and off down the road to Santander. We left the van in the ferry terminal and headed off along the promenade. Had a leisurely coffee in the sun and then we walked a couple of km along the front to the Maritime museum. We came here with the kids many years ago. The cost of entry included a cut-price menu del dia in their lovely rooftop restaurant so we idled over that, watching the windsurfers and the sailing lessons before looking round the museum and the aquarium below. It was a very restful way to spend our last day.
    Then all aboard for our mini cruise home.
    Broken night's sleep though Ian said the sea was as flat as Winterbourne pond. I dispute that.
    We treated ourselves to a posh breakfast cos we had a discount card and then spent the rest of the day sitting on deck in the sun trying to spot dolphin. And f **k my old boots we actually saw some playing in the wake waves at the back of the boat! Knowing our luck wildlife spotting, what were the chances of that?
    Brittany ferries pulling out all the stops with accordian players and free cider barmaids wandering the decks.
    Lovely end to a great trip.
    Adiós Espana. Back soon.....x    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    A hill too far?

    July 2, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Forecast not great for today but we set off on the bikes regardless up the Vale of Cabuérniga.
    15 solid uphill miles and, after a couple of thousand feet of climbing and a lot of sweating and swearing, we emerged at a viewpoint.....but the view was in the clouds.
    We had a picnic there in the company of a rather unfetching deer statue.
    Our return journey down into the valley was quicker but we were both numb with cold most of the way. We had to keep stopping for me to put my hands in Ian's armpits as I couldn't grip the brakes (essential).
    Back to the campsite for a hot shower and final camping dinner (curry of course). It is hard to imagine that this is our last night in the van this trip. Feels like home...    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Cantabrian calm

    July 1, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After our night in the fairly busy seaside town, we packed up and cruised on to the north-facing foothills of the Picos nearer to Santander.
    We are in a lovely, rural, unspoilt campsite with lots of space and friendly hosts.
    We jumped on the bikes and spent the afternoon exploring all the local villages. We actually met a man walking in clogs on stilts. They are designed to avoid mud and cow poo apparently.
    Went to a village where the river emerges from the rocks of the mountain and is controlled by a fairy and the village has a list of the dates when the fairy has stopped the flow in the last 30 years.
    Possible the cowbells will keep us awake tonight..    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    The road to nowhere

    June 30, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Moving on to the coast today. There are not many routes through the mountains but we chose a relatively major one. Well half way along, as we went through a steep and windy gorge, the road was stopped. They'd just covered up the signs and said no entry. So we had to take a long and scary, much windier, much narrower, much steeper route up into the mountain mists. In some parts the road had fallen away into the gorge, in others there were rocks which had fallen from above. There was very little traffic so we had no idea if we were going to end up on a dirt track. Anyway we made it down after some angst and about 90 minutes added to our journey. I had thought that the scary stuff was finished.
    On to Ribadesella on the northern coast. Got settled in and then walked a few km into town. Strolled the long promenade to the port and people watched the Spanish families doing their Sunday thing.
    We sipped cold white wine listening to a choir practising in the bar next door.
    Then a steep hike back home for dinner.    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Apologies to the bison

    June 29, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    The bison do exist after all.
    2 years ago 4 of them were introduced into the area round the reservoir along with a bunch of water buffalo. They had been badly treated somewhere and a couple of the rest of the herd had been beheaded by undesirables somehow... So now they have the whole Picos to roam.
    We cycled out along the lake northbound and visited a couple of the villages that had been relocated when the valley was flooded. They had saved their church facades and their bells and we saw some of the old roads and cemeteries peeping out of the water
    Managed to scrounge a coffee out of a very quiet hostel. Hard to keep saying spectacular scenery but it was indeed.
    Back to town with just enough time to visit the ethnographic museum in town.
    Fascinating place. Every house that was lost was photographically archived on the walls along with the names of the owners. Also there was a display on the walls of the Kings of Leon from 10th century to the 13th century. Never realised before now that the band was named after them.
    Back up the hill in the searing heat. Cachophony of jet skis on the lake in the village below, along with Saturday motorbikers screaming around the mountain bends.
    Then the wind whipped up and the clouds rolled in. Cool at last .    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Bison lost in translation

    June 28, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Up early to get a bike ride into the mountains before it got too hot. We swept over the bridge and up towards the dam that supports the reservoir. Then an uphill road to a tiny village called Remolina, which is nestled in between the crags. Had a completely incomprehensible conversation with an old lady as we sat in the square.
    Bit of a slog back to Riano but beautiful.
    We were back in the campsite by 2pm and had lunch in the shade.
    In the late afternoon we went back down to the village and went on a boat ride to the far reaches of the reservoir. We were told we might see bison but, as usual, we saw nothing. We think that the "bison" might be deer....
    Flogged up the hill to the campground again for alfresco dinner and watched the sun set behind the mountains.    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Swapping religion for God's country...

    June 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Had a slightly disturbed night as a group of Belgian motorbikers roared into the campsite late last night and set up a big table outside a cabin near us and drank till the wee hours. However earplugs saved the day.
    Up and away after brekky, still chasing northwards where it is supposedly a wee bit cooler.
    The scenery changed from dry flat yellow plains with scattered towns with storks on belltowers, to rolling green hills, and then at last we were in the mountains in the southern foothills of the Picos. We had a lovely journey through valleys and meadows, where wild horses were grazing.
    Our campsite choice was a bit of a worry. It had a poor website with no recent reviews but it is STUNNING.
    We have mountains all around, a huge reservoir below, a great campsite with a lovely owner.
    Ian BBQd white beans tonight for our Tuna salad.
    Climbed the hills above the campsite after dinner to watch the sun go down. Perfect.    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Double magnet day

    June 26, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The temperature is rising so we wanted an easy day. We breakfasted in the shade and then walked up into Tordesillas. We wanted to see a royal convent : the Real Monasterio de Santa Clara. We had to wait a bit for an English speaking guide but there were only 4 of us, 2 Spanish and ourselves, so it was intimate. Extraordinary security too...our bags were x-rayed and a security guide followed us from room to room to make sure we behaved. It was stunning. Dating back to the 13th century with moorish influence to please King Peter the Cruel's mistress who was from Andalucia.
    Then later on the Queen of Castille, known as Juana la Loca because she was a bit deranged, was imprisoned here for 46 years. She had previously carried her dead husband (Felipe the Handsome) around Spain in a coffin and looked in at him episodically..
    The other big event here was in 1494. Spain and Portugal divided up the world (those lands discovered already) by running a line down the earth between the two poles. In the Treaty of Tordesillas the Spanish kept everything to the west of the line and the Portuguese kept everything to the east. The line was moved a bit west by the Spanish pope (370 leagues) to go around the Cape Verde Islands and consequently Portugal came away with Brazil. Big spoils... Silly old Spain. There was a great museum in the town explaining it all. We had a menu del dia, which was great, in the plaza major to while away a bit more of the hottest part of the day. Then a swim, BBQ and cool evening breezes by the river.
    First time we have felt compelled to buy 2 magnets in one day ....    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Keeping cool

    June 25, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We started to head north to try to outrun the heatwave. Stopped our journey in Medina del Campo where there is a massive 15th century castle - Castille de la Mota. We walked around in the heat with an audio guide. Pretty exceptional stuff for the time.
    Then a quick shop to fill the fridge and we pushed on to Tordesillas. A historic town where Spain accidentally gave Portugal the whole of Brazil in a treaty by mistake.....
    The campsite has a big pool so we swam to cool off, had a beer to cool off, had a BBQ to cool off, and finally tried to cool off in the van with the fan.    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Secret Salamanca

    June 24, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We had a leisurely start this morning, did a bit of laundry and caught up on admin. Also a wee bit of planning to avoid the impending heatwave that's about to strike. Heading North seems to be the best option.
    Then we cycled back into town. Bought some great pasties from the Salamanca equivalent of Gregg's and ate them in a park. Then we went to meet the chap (Mark from Leicester, lived in Salamanca for 16 years, teaches English ) for our guided walk. We were the only clients so it was a bit like seeing the city with a chum except his views on Brexit were a bit dodgy. He told us stuff we didn't know, and walked us to hidden places we hadn't seen so it was great.
    After we finished we went on his recommendation to climb a belltower in a private university where we had stonking views over the city. It was just what we had hoped for.
    We cycled back along the River Tormes to the campsite where our Dutch neighbours had rescued our smalls that had blown away...    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Where is the lake?

    June 23, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Astonishly we woke up at 10am. We had earplugs in and they obviously worked. Loads of tents and vans had left without disturbing us.
    We decided to turn our backs on gilt and religion for once and Ian mapped a 30 mile route to a big lake where we hoped to have a picnic.
    We ended up heading up a gravel road to a water tower, and then past lots of signs that looked suspiciously like no entry signs. We followed a canal, met 2 walkers only, and then reached a sign over a dam that , roughly translated, said "really don't go here we have cameras". All the while the lake was missing.... Dried up we presume. So we took a detour and finally reached a tarmac road with a little traffic. Found a picnic spot in the middle of nowhere, and then Ian acted as a windbreak for a strong headwind home that nearly finished us. More miles than we had intended in the heat.
    Last stretch was along the river. We happened upon a village fiesta with an oom pa pa sort of band and trestle tables and everyone out strolling.
    Home for a rehydrate and a rest and paella and BBQ pork.
    Back to religion tomorrow we think.
    Safer option, or maybe someone is trying to tell us something...    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    The long journey north begins

    June 22, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We left the campsite early (glad...washrooms unclean and odd feel about the place ) and had a short journey on an empty motorway to Salamanca. Our campsite here couldn't be more different. Welcoming, organised, nice bar and restaurant, nice pool, washrooms you could eat your dinner off. We have a huge pitch, nice and private. We spent a couple of hours organising and resting in the heat, and then rode a lovely 45 minute route along the river into Salamanca. We parked our bikes and strolled about in the sun for a couple of hours. Elegant and interesting city, buzzing with families and even a wedding to watch. Decided we will stay an extra day it's so nice. Mindful of approaching heatwave too....
    Not a big fan of Dyson the man but the Dyson fan has been a life saver...    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    To the frontier

    June 21, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Headed off to cross another set of mountains - the Sierra de Francia - this time on a passable road which had a line down the middle....
    Great views across into Portugal - we are very close to the border now. Stopped at a picture book town at the top for coffee - La Alberca. Enticed to buy what we thought were cookies but turns out big slabs of chocolate with walnuts in ...€5 !
    On down the other side and stopped at Ciudad Rodrigo. A historic walled border town. Spent most of its history defending itself against attack from all sides. Even Wellington had a go at it.
    We wandered the deserted narrow streets and climbed the walls. At 6 pm everyone came out to the main square for drinkies so we people watched for an hour or so. Swallows in their hundreds swooped all round the square. We had sussed out our dinner venue and it was a great success. Divine seafood stuffed peppers and the best fillet steak we have ever eaten.
    Campsite poor though and in a dodgy part of town. It is the first time we have felt a bit insecure on our travels...    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Listen to the silence..

    June 20, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Ian had sorted another 30 mile loop ride on the GPS. We set off a bit late. We hadn't set an alarm because we were knackered after yesterday. Soon we were high up in the cool oak woods above the valley and the quiet was deafening. Our only companions were the birds and the frogs.
    On to the next village - Gargantilla - where we heard Ry's masters result. They have a cherry co-operative.
    Rode past a couple more tiny villages and stopped in one that had a sign of a bull in its village sign - Segura de Toro. We parked the bikes and walked down the steep streets. Some one was filming in the village by the church and a friendly lady gave us a leaflet on the history of the village (in Spanish of course).

    Then we found a bar where an old lady used Google translate on her iPhone to tell the barman what coffee we wanted...
    We pedalled on to a small town called Zarza de Granadilla that was compulsorily evacuated in the 1960s for a reservoir to be built, but the water level never reached it so now it remains nearly deserted. We had a picnic in the church square watched by the storks.
    Home across the parched valley.
    Celebratory curry and a fine local wine ended the perfect biking day .    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Cherry suprise

    June 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We headed off from Segovia and paused our journey to look at the almost perfect walled city of Avila from a vantage point on a hill outside the city by a monument built as a defence in 1566.
    Then we drove on a "scenic" route Ian said. Turned out to be another buttock-clenching, nail-biting journey round endless hairpins on a single track road with sheer drops into the valley. All around, terraces shaped the mountainsides and on the endless terraces, endless cherry trees. I wondered why they were so cheap to buy in the supermarket this morning...
    We finally reached Hervas, a lovely small town with a medieval Jewish quarter. We jumped on the bikes and rode into town for a walk around the narrow streets and then a couple of crisp white wines in the square watching the people go by.    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Fountains in the mountains

    June 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Another bike loop today. This one inspired by our Spanish friend Simon who told us to see the palaces outside Segovia in the hills. It was hot and windy but a lovely route. Our first palace was in a small town called San Ildefonso. It was the summer palace of Felipe V. We didn't go into the palace but the gardens were absolutely magnificent. Fountains everywhere and cool shady walks through the woods above the palace. We had a picnic in the shade and continued on our way to the second palace Rio Frio which was built as a hunting lodge for a son who died young. The building was huge but not pretty. The grounds were enormous and apparently full of deer and birds of prey although we didn't see the deer... There were stork nests on special poles. We weren't sure whether we were allowed to bike through the grounds but we blasted our way past the guard on the gate and sailed on into the estate, which went on for a few km on a private road, and then made a dash through the lower gate giving the guard a big Ola!
    Hot dusty and hilly ride back to Segovia, but a great day.    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Segovia splendours

    June 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Biked down a long hill from the campsite and the aqueduct just fills the sky in front of you as you turn a corner. It's a magnificent thing, all held up with no mortar. We marvelled at all 800m of it along with the busloads of tourists on a day trip from Madrid (mostly Chinese using selfie sticks). Then we walked up through the narrow streets to the Alcazar. Also magnificent, beautifully restored and presented. We saw that mostly surrounded by hordes of Spanish school kids - much preferable to the selfie sticks.
    A menu del dia in a quiet back street was just great.
    Then we visited the cathedral. We have seen 3 great cathedrals now and the opulence is near overload.... However these things were built in the 11th and 12th century so that alone deserves respect I suppose.
    Bit of a drag back up the long hill and BBQ with beers in the cool beside the van .
    New favourite wildlife creature is storks. They are on every church bell tower.    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    No rain on the plain...

    June 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Moving on day today. Started with a lovely route through a spectacular canyon - Rio Lobos - where we watched huge birds of prey wheeling around on the thermals. Then on to El Burgo de Osma. We stopped for a coffee and then nearly drove on through but caught sight of the storks on the church belltower and the cathedral spires so we jumped out for a walk about. Very lively Spanish Sunday with everyone in their Sunday best drinking and eating tapas. Then on out over vast rolling plains to our stop in Segovia.Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Cyclocross

    June 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Restless night worrying about bears and wolves we are so deep in the woods...
    Set off on a gentle 30 mile bike loop around a huge lake/reservoir nearby. Had a relaxed stop at a small village to buy picnic supplies and have a coffee. Then off we went again unaware our route was blocked crossing the dam . This meant a choice. An extra 30k or so or a rough bike path through the woods. Ian got the casting vote. Disturbing start through a herd of cows with a massive horned bull in the middle.
    The surface got worse and then unridable sand and stones so it turned into a cyclo-cross event, pushing and lugging the bikes along for several more km than was good. There were no words spoken till we reached the road at last....
    Then things improved. Nice picnic stop and another stretch on the Santander to Valencia bike path to finish. We are friends again now.... Scenery was beautiful.    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Platinum CD reserve team

    June 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Set off in the van from the busy campsite in Burgos and pretty soon on quiet empty roads. We had 2 stops on our journey today. First in a beautifully preserved medieval town called Covarrubias. There was a Norwegian connection as the top banana brought back a Norwegian princess for his wastrel brother. She was so lovely her sister in laws poisoned her...
    Then we went on to an 11th century monastery in Santo Domingo de Silos. Just scraped in to see the cloisters before they shut for siesta or prayers or something.
    Absolutley delicious pintxos in the town square...stuffed peppers (stuffing not determined, however. Black pudding?) and chorizo sausage cooked in cider.
    They told us the Gregorian monks had made a CD of their chants that had gone platinum so we went to a service in the church in the early afternoon but clearly got the B team...some old monk kept blowing his nose really loudly during the singing. We snuck out the back...
    Moved on to a wooded campsite by a reservoir deep in the middle of nowhere.
    Only the birds to keep us company .    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Double monastery day

    June 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Turning our backs on the throngs of camino walkers and tourists visiting the city and its cathedral we headed off in the other direction on our bikes. Very quickly completely on our own in the "big sky" countryside. Our route took us past an impressive monastery . One of the monks was sitting outside with his hood up a bit like he was on the naughty step for something...
    We had a great coffee stop at the top of a hill where our only companions were a couple of Spanish bikers.
    Then on out around the hills and into to an impressive headwind (the windfarms should have given the game away). Some of the descents were a bit hairy with crosswinds. We were both mindful of Chris Froome and made sure to stop before any noseblowing.
    Had a picnic in a lovely small town en route, and then homeward on a cycle track (Via Verde) that runs all the way from Santander to Valencia! We even had a 600m tunnel to navigate with no lights ...
    Once we got back we took a ride to see another monastery just a couple of km from the campsite. We went into this one - impressive church.
    Immediately invaded by about 100 Spanish schoolchildren who swept through like a swarm of noisy locusts. Then we were left in the quiet again listening to the monks singing in the courtyard. Another one of those nearly religious moments ....    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Cathedral overload

    June 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Up and away on an empty road headed for Burgos. The Camino route ran alongside the road for most of the way and clearly there were droves of folk who had made a very early start judging by their progress. All marching along, earphones in, hopefully enjoying inner peace.
    Busy campsite that got very very busy as the day went on. Where did they all come from, and where are they all going?
    We jumped on our bikes and headed in to the city. Beautiful place. Dominated by the cathedral. We climbed up to a great old castle from the 9th century. Marvellous city walls, and wall gates lead to a huge square where the cathedral stands. We went inside for an audioguide. It was so opulent that it was almost obscene. Made us wonder what the poor folk made of it all back in the day. The stuff that fuels revolution ....
    Best part for us was an old wooden casket supposed to contain the remains of El Cid but didn't even get a mention in the guide.
    We had a glass of cold white wine in the square in the evening sun fully expecting to be charged an arm and a leg. €4 for both...    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Where roosters crow after being roasted

    June 11, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Set off along a rather overgrown bike path to a town called St Domingo de la Calzada. Legend has it that a German boy was hanged here for a theft he didn't commit. His parents came to find him still alive (miracle). They went to tell the mayor, who said that the boy was as alive as the roast chicken on his plate. Promptly the chicken sat up and crowed (miracle).
    In the cathedral they keep a live hen and rooster in a gilded cage. They change them every 15 days.
    The cathedral was fascinating, with all sorts of artefacts and tombs dating back as far as the 11th century. We spent ages in there with an audioguide, and consequently missed a huge downpour (miracle). Oh and we had cracking egg and chips in a local hostelry that was full of hikers and bikers on the Camino route.. Great route home with lovely mountain views. Went via some of the bodegas on the way to have a look about. Bit too posh for us in our biking gear...    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    Vine vine pilgrim pilgrim vine vine

    June 10, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Was a bit overcast and drizzly when we woke up - and we were a bit overcast and drizzly after our Rioja fest last night - so for penance we went on a long hilly bike ride. Out into the empty vineyards in the hills around Haro and reached our lunch stop in Nájera which is also a stop on the pilgrim route. Astounded again at the numbers and physical state of folk walking this to prove their faith. Well at least if you're on the pilgrim route you can guarantee a few open cafés.
    The sun came out for our return journey as we left the walking throngs and headed back into the empty hills with the vines stretching off to the distant mountains. A suprise monastery on our return journey, with open doors and peaceful gardens was a lovely stop.    Read more

  • Kate BoydFrance to Spain 2019Traveler

    La Rioja day

    June 9, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Up and away early from Pamplona to navigate the city before the traffic built up. Then out over vast plains and valleys that reminded us of our trip up from Valencia after the volcano.
    The campsite in Haro was packed. Big family groups and kids everywhere. Then we discovered today is a holiday - day of the Rioja . As it's a Sunday, tomorrow is a holiday too. However we found a great spot and settled in. Life administration, laundry and research. Then as the fridge was bare and the supermarkets closed we walked into town and wandered the narrow streets eating pintxos and drinking red wine from the local bodegas. Best mushrooms we have ever eaten.
    They have a festival here at the end of May where everyone throws red wine over each other...    Read more

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