France to Spain 2019

May 2019 - July 2025
  • Kate Boyd
Current
Motorhome adventure to northern Spain via French Atlantic coast Read more
  • Kate Boyd
Currently traveling

List of countries

  • Spain Spain
  • France France
  • England England
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  • 2.9kkilometers traveled
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  • 37footprints
  • 2,233days
  • 221photos
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  • Double monastery day

    June 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Turning our backs on the throngs of camino walkers and tourists visiting the city and its cathedral we headed off in the other direction on our bikes. Very quickly completely on our own in the "big sky" countryside. Our route took us past an impressive monastery . One of the monks was sitting outside with his hood up a bit like he was on the naughty step for something...
    We had a great coffee stop at the top of a hill where our only companions were a couple of Spanish bikers.
    Then on out around the hills and into to an impressive headwind (the windfarms should have given the game away). Some of the descents were a bit hairy with crosswinds. We were both mindful of Chris Froome and made sure to stop before any noseblowing.
    Had a picnic in a lovely small town en route, and then homeward on a cycle track (Via Verde) that runs all the way from Santander to Valencia! We even had a 600m tunnel to navigate with no lights ...
    Once we got back we took a ride to see another monastery just a couple of km from the campsite. We went into this one - impressive church.
    Immediately invaded by about 100 Spanish schoolchildren who swept through like a swarm of noisy locusts. Then we were left in the quiet again listening to the monks singing in the courtyard. Another one of those nearly religious moments ....
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  • Cathedral overload

    June 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Up and away on an empty road headed for Burgos. The Camino route ran alongside the road for most of the way and clearly there were droves of folk who had made a very early start judging by their progress. All marching along, earphones in, hopefully enjoying inner peace.
    Busy campsite that got very very busy as the day went on. Where did they all come from, and where are they all going?
    We jumped on our bikes and headed in to the city. Beautiful place. Dominated by the cathedral. We climbed up to a great old castle from the 9th century. Marvellous city walls, and wall gates lead to a huge square where the cathedral stands. We went inside for an audioguide. It was so opulent that it was almost obscene. Made us wonder what the poor folk made of it all back in the day. The stuff that fuels revolution ....
    Best part for us was an old wooden casket supposed to contain the remains of El Cid but didn't even get a mention in the guide.
    We had a glass of cold white wine in the square in the evening sun fully expecting to be charged an arm and a leg. €4 for both...
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  • Where roosters crow after being roasted

    June 11, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Set off along a rather overgrown bike path to a town called St Domingo de la Calzada. Legend has it that a German boy was hanged here for a theft he didn't commit. His parents came to find him still alive (miracle). They went to tell the mayor, who said that the boy was as alive as the roast chicken on his plate. Promptly the chicken sat up and crowed (miracle).
    In the cathedral they keep a live hen and rooster in a gilded cage. They change them every 15 days.
    The cathedral was fascinating, with all sorts of artefacts and tombs dating back as far as the 11th century. We spent ages in there with an audioguide, and consequently missed a huge downpour (miracle). Oh and we had cracking egg and chips in a local hostelry that was full of hikers and bikers on the Camino route.. Great route home with lovely mountain views. Went via some of the bodegas on the way to have a look about. Bit too posh for us in our biking gear...
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  • Vine vine pilgrim pilgrim vine vine

    June 10, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Was a bit overcast and drizzly when we woke up - and we were a bit overcast and drizzly after our Rioja fest last night - so for penance we went on a long hilly bike ride. Out into the empty vineyards in the hills around Haro and reached our lunch stop in Nájera which is also a stop on the pilgrim route. Astounded again at the numbers and physical state of folk walking this to prove their faith. Well at least if you're on the pilgrim route you can guarantee a few open cafés.
    The sun came out for our return journey as we left the walking throngs and headed back into the empty hills with the vines stretching off to the distant mountains. A suprise monastery on our return journey, with open doors and peaceful gardens was a lovely stop.
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  • La Rioja day

    June 9, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    Up and away early from Pamplona to navigate the city before the traffic built up. Then out over vast plains and valleys that reminded us of our trip up from Valencia after the volcano.
    The campsite in Haro was packed. Big family groups and kids everywhere. Then we discovered today is a holiday - day of the Rioja . As it's a Sunday, tomorrow is a holiday too. However we found a great spot and settled in. Life administration, laundry and research. Then as the fridge was bare and the supermarkets closed we walked into town and wandered the narrow streets eating pintxos and drinking red wine from the local bodegas. Best mushrooms we have ever eaten.
    They have a festival here at the end of May where everyone throws red wine over each other...
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  • Pintxos in Pamplona

    June 8, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We set off from the campsite for the 10k ride along the river into Pamplona. We somehow managed to make an easy route difficult but arrived eventually along with many hiking pilgrims (en route to Santiago De Compostela) following the same path as us. There are clam shell markers everywhere. The city was great, easy to navigate around and there were lots of historic sights to see. Some very weird giant figures dancing in the squares. We had a great menu del dia in the city's theatre. Then we biked around gardens where there are wandering deer and peacocks in the old moats of the city walls and a dramatic 16th century citadel in the shape of a 5 pointed star.
    Finished the day with wine and pintxos in a busy bar. Dad chose one with tuna, salmon, anchovies, octopus, baby eels, egg and peppers. I did not share it until he removed the baby eels....
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  • Over the Pyrenees

    June 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    4 wheel adventure today rather than 2. The overnight rain and thunder cleared to leave a good day for crossing the mountains. The pass we chose was quiet and a little less high than some of the the others but it was still a buttock--clenching, toe-curling journey mostly in second gear, once or twice in first. The van wheezed and stuttered over the top after about an hour of climbing steep hairpins and there was a cyclist reading the map at the top......respect. The wind was so strong we struggled to open the van doors to get out for a look.
    We sailed down the Spanish side and came to rest just outside Pamplona. Ready for a bike into the city along the river tomorrow.
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  • All for one and one for all?

    June 6, 2019 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    The rain fell in torrents yesterday. We knew it was coming so we made it a travel day. We had a brief stop in a town called Orthez famous for a 12th century bridge with a big tower in the middle.
    On to Aramits. One of the three musketeers was supposedly born here but he is fictional....
    Sun came out after breakfast and we had a splendid day on the bikes. Some climbing yes, but no complaints. Pastures and picturesque villages, rushing rivers and snow capped mountains in the distance.
    Spent a happy hour exploring a Roman town Oloron-ste-Marie where two rivers meet. Had a great picnic spot.
    Then lovely quiet undulating route home for a beer in the evening sun. Great day. What motorhomes were made for.
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  • Where is everyone?

    June 4, 2019 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We set off in the sunshine for another 30 mile loop around the pine forests of Landes. Even though our route passed through a few small towns virtually the only person we saw was a nice lady opening up a small cafe who agreed to make us a coffee. Then we found we had forgotten to bring any money.....
    We picniced by a small lake and then flew home along deserted roads. We have never ridden anywhere as relentlessly flat as this. Never thought we would be longing for an undulate ..
    Moving on tomorrow to the Pyrenees. Should be plenty of undulates there....
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  • Shhh France is asleep ..

    June 3, 2019 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had a long drive south yesterday. Lots of "at the roundabout take the second exit" stuff and then some busy busy motorway round the Bordeaux peripherique. We were glad to get to the relative quiet of Landes. Nice campsite with a grand wee pool and a bar. Very laid back.
    We set off this morning for a gentle bike route through the forests to visit a couple of the surrounding villages. So quiet it felt like everyone was asleep with their shutters down. The coffee stop was a challenge but we rose to it although we had to add 5 miles to our loop as as a result ....
    Picnic in a churchyard - often the best locations - and then back home for a swim and a rest. Spent an hour or two planning our journey into Spain (2 weeks after we should have got there) but the journey has reminded us how much we love camping in France.
    Today is world bike day so it is good that we were out on 2 wheels exploring.
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