Oct 10 - Veliko Tarnovo and Arbanasi

This morning, we docked in Nikopol, Bulgaria. This is as far as the ship is going to be able to go due to low water levels. We were supposed to go all the way to the Black Sea, but we are having to stop about 300 kms short. J.J. has had to completely rejig the activities for the next three days.

Rather than visiting Silistra, the activity for today is an all-day excursion to Veliko Tarnovo and Arbanssi. This involves a ~2-hr bus ride each direction. Doug is opting out.

Veliko Tarnovo is considered to be a Byzantine gem and is often referred to as the “City of the Tsars”. It was the historical capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire.

The drive Tarnovo (as the locals call it) was on rather rough roads that passed through some pretty scruffy villages. Our guide for the day was Anna. The soil in Bulgaria is quite fertile, with about six feet of loam. Major crops are wheat, barley, corn (for fodder), sunflowers (for oil), tomatoes, and grapes (for wine).

Our first stop was in Arbanasi a wedding/party/convention venue for washroom break and a snack. The decorating style of the place was over-the-top opulence. And the lights in the washrooms are motion activated, so if you sit still too long, they go out and leave you in total darkness. Lots of hand waving was required to bring the lights back on.

From there we went to Tarnovo to see (but not tour) of the old fortress called “Tsarevets”. It sits high on a hill overlooking the valley. Then we had time to shop in the artisans’ street. The local artisans got smart and congregated close to one another to make tourist shopping easier. There were silversmiths, ceramic makers, wood carvers, stitchers amongst others. I got a little cross-stitch Christmas ornament. I know how long it takes to do that kind of intricate stitching.

Next was our lunch break in a lovely hotel with a beautiful view over the valley. We had a traditional Bulgarian salad of tomatoes, cucumbers, and shaved cheese, followed by chicken on skewers and potatoes, and then honey-sweetened yogurt with walnuts for dessert.

Back in Arbanasi, we tasted brandy made from roses (delicious!) and then toured the house of a wealthy merchant/trader from the 1600s.

Our last stop was at the Church of the Archangels, an Orthodox church from the 1800s. We were treated to a short concert by four performers who sang songs that are part of their religious ceremony.

Back on the bus for the 2-hour return trip. Doug had spent the day reading and exploring the little town of Nikopol on bike with Jenny and David.

We had dinner with Jenny and David – it was Jenny’s birthday. The staff brought a cake and serenaded Jenny on her “18th birthday”. It was a delightful end to the day.Read more