• Day 24 Vigo to Redondela

    19 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Vigo is a rather large city and the first 2 miles were through the edge of town. Imagine walking for 2.5 miles through Oakland or South Side going slightly uphill the entire way. Not very exciting. After getting through town we went straight up and then hit some beautiful forest and country areas with the ocean within view for part of the time.

    It was a short day of only about 11 miles and our last day on the coastal trail. Now we meet up with all of the pilgrims traveling on the central path. There is a cafe where the two trails come together and there were many pilgrims there. We met a young man from Lisbon who is doing the Camino backwards from Santiago to Lisbon. Today was the first day that we didn't see any country animals. :(
    Meer informatie

  • Day 23 to Vigo

    18 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Another easy day of about 13 miles either along the coast or within view of the ocean up until we entered the city of Vigo where we went through an area with working shipyards. The weather was perfect, in the 70's, with a nice breeze. The beaches have been beautiful and surprising. There are topless and totally nude beaches here. ( Zoom in if interested.)

    We walked with two German ladies for a while. One of them had heard of the Camino and wanted to do it. She left her husband at home because he works too much and decided to come alone. She said, as we have heard before, I came alone, but I'm never alone. The two of them caught a bus at lunchtime since they were both having foot issues.

    Note: Eileen took the beach photos.

    After settling into our room, we went out into the square and listened to music while we drank beer and watched the people pass by.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 22 - to A Ramallosa

    17 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Easy, peasy day -- just a little over 12 miles under sunny skies. We split our time right along the coast and up and over some wooded hills.

    We hiked some with Brianna (age 75) again, along with Chris and Christy from New Braunfels, TX. They had hiked the Frances back in 2019. Their collegiate athlete daughter hiked the first week with them back in 2019 but her feet got so bad they had to send her home.

    We went a long way without any cafes but were able to stop for a nice lunch and beverage with our companions.

    Today was a day of horses and bikes. We passed a lot of horses to this morning, then a lot of bikers, and then later a bike race.

    Once settled in our room, we headed out to the patio door a beer and some trip planning, making additional reservations.

    Dinner was pizza and wine , with a short walk along the beach planned yet. Wine and beer have been staples. It could be because we are in beach areas but based on 2 days in Spain, restaurant prices appear significantly higher than Portugal.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 21 Caminha to Viladesuso - Oia

    16 mei 2023, Spanje ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Our first day in Spain! We took a water taxi across the river to reach the Spanish border where we hiked 13.5 miles. The boat driver hit a rock or something as we started our but no apparent damage. We hiked through some forests and roads but always within view of the ocean. The last couple of miles were through fields near the rocky coast. The weather was in the 70's and there was a slight breeze most of the day making for delightful hiking.

    Last night at dinner we met Brianna and Chris from Boston. It is Chris's first Camino but it is Brianna's 4th. She is 75 years old. She did her first Camino at the age of 65. She had a year where she battled and beat a type of cancer and then decided to walk some more, feeling blessed that she can. We spent several miles walking together today. She walks faster than we do (and Chris too, as she left him behind!).

    Our hotel is right near the water so we wandered down to the rocks and soaked our feet (and maybe a little more) in the ocean for a little therapy. Hearing the ocean all day and then again as we go to sleep is therapy too!
    Meer informatie

  • Day 20 Viana do Castelo to Caminha

    15 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    It is our last day in Portugal. Tomorrow we cross over into Spain. Portugal did not disappoint on its final day of 17 miles. We started through cobble stoned country roads between large walls. Behind the walls were fields, gardens, even houses with the old wall as part of the house. Then we hit some forests with large stones and eucalyptus trees. As we moved through this varied views, we frequently hat views of the seas. Finally we ended with a beautiful walk along the coast with a small breeze.

    We met some ladies from the Philadelphia area - Charlene and Jen - and walked with them for a few miles and a girl from the Netherlands. Getting to talk with others makes the walk go faster. They stopped for the day before we did and we probably won't see them again, but it was a nice afternoon.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 19 Esposende to Viana do Castelo

    14 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today was 17 miles through suburban, cobble stone roads, some forests, and some country roads with pigs, cows, and goats, and past a lot of churches. While beautiful, it was a rather boring day. We moveed inland a little because the coast path is beaten up, so that brought warmer weather and hills. There are many pilgrims on the road and we pass each other often wishing each other Bom Camino. - good journey. Many people are in groups or couples, and some travel alone. It is fun when you see people traveling alone pair up, chat and giggle for a few miles, friends being made.

    Our room is near the water and we had a drink by the river in this cute town. Then we went in search of something to eat and found... the golden arches! Yes, we found McDonald's in a mall only minutes from our room. And we enjoyed every bite with beer! Don't judge, we have eaten a lot of Portuguese food. Lol.
    Meer informatie

  • Churches,, churches, churches

    14 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    This is a very small percentage of all of the churches, religious monuments, and vigils that we have seen. The best part is that all of the churches in the center of the town play their bells on the hour and some on the quarter hour. They sound beautiful.Meer informatie

  • Day 18 - to Esposende

    13 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    This was our easiest walk yet - exactly 15 miles and no hills. A bit windy near the end but not bad - and no sand storm. We really weren't even tired when finishing.

    Part of the walk was right along the beach while other parts were through towns and green spaces. We passed by a golf course that was just off the beach and saw a few football matches.

    For several hours, we were accompanied by 29 year old Oleh from the Ukraine. Oleh is living and working in Munich. He went there to complete his master's and then got a job. When the war in Ukraine started, his father lost his job. It was decided that Oleh would stay in Germany to work and help support his family in the Ukraine while his 59 year old father serves in the artillery of Ukraine's army. He can not go back to Ukraine. From this mother's perspective, it breaks my heart. He is walking the Camino looking for an emotional respite as the last year has been emotionally very difficult for him.

    We had lunch at a cafe in Fao, just a short distance before we stopped for the day. The owner was quite friendly and even provided his card with phone number in the event we needed help. Right before leaving, he decorated 2 stones as souvenirs.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 17 Porto to Vila do Conde

    12 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    So when leaving Porto, you have a choice to take the central route which follows roads, towns, forests, roman roads, etc like we have been doing, or to take the coastal route along or near the Portuguese coastline and the Atlantic ocean. We have always planned on taking the coastal trail even though it is a little bit longer and less popular. About a third of the pilgrims take the coastal trail.

    Today we started and immediately felt blessed. How thankful we are to be able to do this together, the air was cool with a slight breeze, the sun bright, the view amazing. The first 10 miles went by quickly. The ocean was beautiful with rocks, surfers, breaking waves, nice beach towns, and we even passed through a working fishing village. All beautiful in its own way. And then, after lunch .... the wind started. For most of the next 10 miles we had headwinds of 17 - 23 miles an hour! It made walking a lot harder. There was a stretch of about 3 miles near the end that was barren, nothing around except sand dunes on either side of the boardwalk. The wind was at 23 mph then and we were getting sandblasted! It was like walking across the desert.

    We thought we were going to walk 18 miles today but somehow did 21! I don't know how we miscalculated so badly. Even so, we are not feeling too bad. We must be getting stronger. Though this trail is less popular, there are many more pilgrims now than in the first half of the trip. We didn't spend much time with any of them yet but today we met two people from Italy, and some from Germany, and Poland.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 16 - more resting in Porto

    11 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 70 °F

    A somewhat lazy day in Porto, a lot less walking than yesterday. But that changes tomorrow, looking at about 18 miles. The weather has been fantastic and the forecast continues to look good.

    We started off with a trip to the big Porto market. The facility was renovated fairly recently so it doesn't look its age. We had some breakfast there and just browsed.

    The next stop was one on the fanciest McDonald's on the planet. It is in a historic location that once was occupied by a cafe. McDonald's was allowed to move in on the condition they maintain the original decor, including the crystal chandelier.

    Since we enjoyed the port wine tasting so much yesterday, we decided to take a 2 hour river cruise with port wine tasting. There were only 6 of us (plus 2 crew) on the boat including a couple from Russia now living in southern Portugal and a couple from England in for a week vacation.

    We ate dinner at a restaurant right next to where we are staying then went across the street to Bonaparte's for a drink.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 15 Rest day in Porto

    10 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    What do you do on a rest day? Take a walking tour of the city of course - only a few miles, seeing the major sights, and learning some history. There were at least 8 countries represented in the group of 25 on our tour.

    While visiting the Se Cathedral, we heard music. The Penn State Glee Club was having a rehearsal in the church. They were performing there in the evening and then three other places in Portugal this week. What a surprise!

    Across the bridge from Porto is Gaia, a town where port wine is aged. We did port wine tasting in two different places. The first was a larger company called Taylor's. The setting was a rose garden with peacocks and a friendly rooster. It was very peaceful and you easily forgot where you were. The second was a family run place called Quevedo with a neighborhood home feeling. Both had good port wine.

    Porto is built in a hill along the river. Gaia is along the river on the other side. There is a lot of walking up hills or taking Ubers which we did to go to dinner and back to our guest house.

    There are two dishes that Porto is known for. Francesinha is a bread with steak, two kinds of sausage, cheese, another slice of bread, covered with a slightly spicy sauce and then can be topped with a fried egg. Jeff has had this twice. The other is tripe stew, yet to be tasted. Otherwise, there is a lot of fish on the menus.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 14 Malaposta to Porto

    9 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Since we were staying in a pretty nice hotel, we decided to sleep in and take advantage of their breakfast before we started, therefore we got a little later start today. There was a light rain when we started and the morning was mostly overcast making for nice hiking. There was also a nice breeze all day even when the sun came out making for a pretty delightful day. Unfortunately, the scenery was pretty boring. Think about walking around your suburban neighborhoods for 17 miles. That's what today was. We saw nice areas, run down areas, some shops, restaurants, and some businesses all on cobble stone roads, then repeat. We had a little bit of eucalyptus wooded area and one monastery for a little variety, but really pretty boring. We added some steps and a hill because we missed an arrow! But walking into Porto made up for it. What a beautiful city! We are taking a two day rest from walking so we can explore the city of Porto.

    We saw our Mexican friends early in the day once but that was it for anyone we knew. Saw very few pilgrims going our way.

    This week in Porto, students at that university are celebrating the end of the year of studies. There was a parade today (before we got here) and the square we had to walk through had thousands of students wearing top hats and canes as well as the traditional school robe. The color of their hat reflected their course of study. They have activities planned for the week.

    Trivia note - JK Rowling spent two years in Porto after her mom died. There were many Portuguese influences that have appeared in her Harry Potter books, including the cloaks that university students wear.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 13 to Malaposta

    8 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Before we talk about today, let us tell you about last night. Casa Catolica is the best pilgrim experience!!. Paulo welcomed us, showed us the kitchen with fresh drinks and snacks, where to do laundry and hang in the garden, our room, the hammocks, and invited us to make ourselves at home. Oh yeah, and dinner was at 7:30. Casa Catolica is between towns so there is no where to go to eat or to shop for groceries. We showered and then socialized with the other pilgrims.

    We met a wonderful couple, Eddie and Elizabeth from Cleveland, Ohio and Fia (Fiona) from Ireland. Fia is only 28 years old and travels for a living. She goes somewhere and works, saves money, and then travels somewhere new. She spent the last two Christmas seasons in Lapland, Finland as an elf in the magical ice castle. On the Camino she spends some nights sleeping in her hammock in the woods or behind an abandoned building. She thinks she wants to settle down and she is using the Camino to figure out what she wants to do. She has been in 27 countries.

    Paulo runs the Alberque. He definitely has a gift for hospitality. He knew everyone staying there by name and would give you the shirt off of his back if you needed it. He usually has about 8 pilgrims a night, but tonight, because of the Fatima pilgrimage, there were 22 pilgrims there last night. He made room for as many as possible, putting mattresses on the floor. He even made sure that Jeff and I had beds and not bunk beds or on the floor, because we were older! There were 25 people for dinner from at least 5 different countries. What an experience! We had meat, vegetables, potatoes, eggs, bread, olives, wine, dessert, and an homemade orange after-dinner liquor. And all for a donation. It was a lot of fun. If you ever want a Camino experience without the walking, volunteer at an Alberque like this one!

    Today was what is becoming a usual day. A lot of street walking, mostly through suburbs, though we did walk on some authentic roman roads from at least the 15th centuries. We did 17.1 miles today and a lot of very tall hills. It was in the low 70's and there was a nice breeze. We are staying at a hotel as there are few accommodations between here and Porto.

    We had a fantastic seafood dinner for two, a bottle of wine, appetizers, and after dinner drink for about $55 .

    Many pilgrims take a taxi from here to Porto because tomorrow involves a lot of main road walking. We intend to walk it all but we reserve the right to take a cab if the road conditions are not safe.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 12 - to Branca

    7 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We hiked 16.8 miles under sunny skies with temps in the low 70s with a wonderful breeze. A lot of it was on roads but we also had some woodland scenery.

    We met a mother and daughter (Caitlyn) from New Zealand. Mom had done the Frances Camino 11 years earlier. Caitlyn had invited her mother along on the Camino and mom jumped at the opportunity.

    Today we saw many hundreds (likely over 1000) pilgrims on their way to Fatima for the annual celebration that takes place on May 13. Most were in large groups supported by vans with food and gear. None of them were carrying packs. Some were singing, dinner saying the rosary, some carrying banners, most just walking with their church groups and socializing. Fatima is going to be hopping on Thursday!

    Twice we passed people playing "American" music - We are the Champions, and Hey Jude. We smiled and started singing along!

    As we neared our destination, we looked for a place to get some minimal food for the morning. We like to have some things on hand because some mornings we have traveled 6 - 8 miles before finding an open cafe. We weren't finding anywhere as we headed out of the small town when a lady in one of the Fatima supply vans asked if we wanted an apple (maca) as we walked by. When i said yes, she opened the back of the van and handed me two oranges, then two apples. She then asked if we wanted bananas and i said yes. Before she got the bananas, c she asked if we wanted cake, which I said yes. She cut us 2 big slices off a pound cake (which we immediately ate) and then proceeded to hand us 4 bananas. So, we weren't able to buy what we were looking for but it was provided - more than enough to see us through tomorrow morning.

    Tonight is our first night in a shared room in true pilgrim fashion. We were to be in a room with 4 but Paulo had to improvise too accommodate everyone. Because of the Fatima pilgrimage, there are tons of people looking for accommodations. I will be sleeping on a fold out couch. A group dinner (28 people) will be served at 1930 (7:30).

    Our roommates included Luis and Fia, asking with a man we never met.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 11 - Sernadelo to Agueda

    6 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was an almost perfect Camino day. There was cloud cover, with a light rain this morning, cooler temperatures, several cafe stops, and only 15.5 miles. With the exception of a section of an industrial zone, the walk went through lots of towns and suburbs. It was all on roads again but today there were plenty of sidewalks and wide berms. The suburbs have refurbished old houses into beautiful neighborhoods.

    Earlier this week someone said that the Camino had a way of hiding pilgrims! Today we didn't see any of our old friends until we reached our accommodations. Depending on when you start, how long you stop, and how fast you walk, many people can be on the trail and never see each other. Last night we were philosophically comparing the Camino to life. (Maybe it was the wine!). Like in life, we have met many people - some just in passing, some for a while, and some for the distance (so far). There are plenty of people that we have seen around, know that they are on the same journey, but have not had the opportunity to speak with them. Then there are those that we got to know and enjoyed their company, but our time with them wasn't to be long. Jeff (California) and Senid (South Africa) were both in their 70's and said they know their limits. They were only doing 10-12 miles a day. Alex (Germany) also was only doing short distances. He is only 50 but had overworked himself the last couple of years and is using the Camino to teach himself to slow down. We knew when we left them that we will probably not see them again but we thoroughly enjoyed meeting them.

    Then there are the people that are currently on the same path as us sometimes even staying in the same places. These are the people that you daily share the highs and lows of each day, encouragement, and even a glass of beer. How long this will go on we don't know. There are many more miles and many more pilgrims to meet. What role each plays for us is yet to be seen. Maybe a few of them will become lifetime friends! Stay tuned as this chapter keeps evolving!

    Today, we meet Luis who spends have his time in northern California and half in southern Mexico. He and his wife have been doing this for 6 years. He says live in Mexico has less stress, 70 -80 degrees year round, and are able to have a housekeeper and a gardener. I think he said this is his 4th Camino. Luis did not appear to be 50 yet.

    We have heard lots of church bells as we travel, some even out of tune. Hearing the bells reminds me (Jeff) of hearing the bells from st. Michaels every 15 minutes when i was young.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 10 Coimbra to Sernadelo

    5 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    It was a pretty boring day. It was shorter than our usual day, only 16 miles today. Unfortunately, all but about 4 miles were on roads. The best part was leaving Coimbra along the river.

    We hate walking on roads. There is not always a berm to walk on and you have to stay alert. But, we still managed to take in a few pretty sights. The people along the Camino are very nice and very aware of the Camino. Yesterday, when we were at intersections looking at our book or our app, trying to confirm which way to go, some random person walking by said "Camino?" and then pointed in the right direction. Today we started up a hill and there were two ladies outside having a chat. As we got closer they started talking to us very excitedly in Portuguese. We thought they were cheering us on. Then they started shooing us away from them and pointing. Yep, we had missed a turn. I don't believe in coincidences so I am thankful for these people being in the right place at the right time!

    We spent some extra time at the cafes chatting with other pilgrims. The Mexicans joined up with a pilgrim from Spain and one from Puerto Rico. They are carrying flags from their countries and they were having fun!

    For those who care, neither one of us took an Aleve today so the aches and pains are getting less!! And on a blister count, it's Eileen - 3, Jeff - 1, all on toes and all healing well.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 9 - to Coimbra

    4 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌙 64 °F

    Another cooler (70s) but mostly sunny day that made it feel warmer. We hiked about 18.75 miles. While there weren't at many elevation changes as the two previous days, there was enough to keep us challenged.

    Our first cafe stop was at the museum at Conimbriga, 7 - 8 miles into our day. There are remains of a Roman settlement there. We stayed at the cafe longer than we should have, closed to an hour - which included a delicious sandwich. While there we spoke with Alex (German) along with Dan and Heather (USA). The Siberians also showed up while we were there. Really haven't spoken with them much and don't know there names - so i (Jeff) decided to nickname them Boris and Natasha.

    Surprisingly we didn't see our Mexican travelers after we left the hostel this morning, and they appeared to be ready to leave shortly after us. Just before heading into our room in Coimbra this evening, we did see one of them on the street, although she was on a phone call so we didn't talk.

    Coimbra is an ancient town with multiple churches dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Wish we were spending an extra day here to explore.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 8 Alvaiazere to Rabacal

    3 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Today was a lot like yesterday - forests, hills, olive trees, vineyards, flowers, small towns, and suburban neighborhoods. And 20+ miles! Beautiful terrain, truly only appreciated with the naked eye. I missed a photo opportunity this morning. An older woman was walking her goats down the road. I didn't want to take her picture without her permission and when we got closer enough, the goats jumped to the field. The picture reflected the old Portuguese. In the next town, there were new builds and rehabs of older buildings taking place and the making of a newer, contemporary Portuguese. We spent part of our day walking with Senti (South Africa), Connie and Lizbeth (Denmark), and Laura and Fortal (Mexico).

    We are starting at a wonderful Alberque and met Alex from Germany. Alex was originally from Essen. He was surprised we knew of it and had been there. Alex is a Packers fan but has friends who are Steelers fans, complete with terrible towels.

    We had dinner with Dan and Heather (Maine). Dan is in the Merchant Marines and basically works 70 days on and 70 days off. This trip is part of his 70 days off - they do not have a return flight booked.

    And green wine is delicious! (It's not really green or from green grapes - look it up!)

    Highlight: A man was getting oranges from his tree and offered us two. They were delicious!!

    Late in the day, we encountered our first rain shower since being in Portugal. It wasn't too long or too hard. Today was much cooler (mid 70s), which made the trek easier.

    It is great that, despite language barriers we are able to communicate with other pilgrims and the locals. Of course, being able to speak English is a great benefit. However, many locals on the smaller towns do not speak English, and the Mexicans we have traveled with know very little.

    Things that I, Jeff, am grateful for:
    - that Eileen and I are physically able to do this, despite it being hard/tiring
    - that Eileen is willing to do this Camino.
    - that we have the means to do it.

    When we get to the last hour or two of these 20 miles days, it is easy to ask yourself "Why?". Not sure that i have a good answer for that yet but I think it is good to test your limits and get out of your comfort zone.
    Meer informatie

  • Day 7 Tomar to Aalvaiazere

    2 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The guide book says that we would climb out of the flat plains into the central province and climb we did - up, up, and up some more. 20 miles with a high of 92°. (Okay we came down some, but every time we came down, we went up more!) We left at 6:00am to get as much of the trek in as we could before it got too hot. A lot of the hills were Pittsburgh type hills but some were straight up, seemingly never ending. We went through very nice forestry areas and some nice suburban areas, as well as little towns. There were many olive groves, aromatic wildflowers, and yards with planted flowers. A very pretty day but very hot. We were blessed with some shade and a little bit of cloud coverage. It could have been a lot worse. And there was only one cafe on the trail.

    We are spending the night at the Albergue Pinheiros run by Carlos. He greeted us with port wine and a very special stamp. Pilgrims carry a passport and get stamps from the places they stay and cafes. I am sure we will not get another stamp as special as Carlos's. He also recommended a place for dinner. Many of the pilgrims staying here went there so we had a great time socializing with our friends from Denmark, Maine, and a new friend from South Africa (Senid, a retired traveling nurse).

    I am thankful...
    ... That we only have one more 20 mile day scheduled.
    ... That there was a gas station/convenience store right when we needed it.
    ... For my husband, whom I love to travel with. We have experienced so much already and I know I wouldn't have done this without him!
    Meer informatie

  • Day 6 - Rest Day in Tomar

    1 mei 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Today was a very necessary rest day. 20 mile days catch up to you. We slept in, had breakfast at the hostel, and spent some time planning our future accommodations. This is not how we planned our trip but there are many more people doing the Camino than in the past. So, where do we stay? There are albergues - shared dormitory type rooms and shared baths and kitchen. They fill up quickly. We have been staying in (and mostly booked ahead) hostels or guesthouses. We have been able to get a private room with a shared or private bath, and shared kitchen. Most of them include breakfast. They have been clean and comfortable, where many pilgrims are staying and average 60E.

    Today was sunny and hot. Tomar is a beautiful town with a lot of medieval history. We took a tuk-tuk around town for a guided tour. Our guide was a local named Monica. This town has been largely influenced by the Knights of Templar and Christianity and yet it also has the oldest synagogue in the world. There are only two Jewish families currently living here but many make a pilgrimage from Israel to worship here.

    Thoughts on our first week:
    There is so much to take in on this trip.
    1) There are snails everywhere. We may lose then when we move away from the river area but some days you had to be careful where you walked so you didn't step on them.
    2) If the people here have a yard, they have an orange tree, and I am jealous! (I also want a kumquat tree!)
    3) There are so many pilgrims from all over the world to meet. This in itself is an experience. Today we met Emma, a 24 year old yoga instructor from the czech republic. Emma was having know issues. We also ran into our friends from Denmark, who decided to take a rest day, also.
    4( Walking through all of the small towns gives one the chance to witness Portugal as it is. Seeing people working in the fields or the industry, tending their own gardens, coming to the cafes with their families for Saturday breakfast, washing their white houses, teenagers hanging out at the hamberquesa, being in a bar where everyone knows each other (except us!), celebrating holidays with parades, and junior hockey teams winning the championship with car honking and cheers in the streets. We don't understand their language, and yet we can relate. This is very different than being in the tourist big cities.
    5) Communicating outside of the bigger cities is a little more difficult but most Portuguese people are friendly and try their best. (Most of their English is still better than my Portuguese). At a tavern we ate at earlier this week, the man spoke no English and his wife, the cook, spoke broken English. When we asked about food, she had a picture of a common Portuguese dish - meat (pork or beef), rice, French fries, and an egg. That is what she would cook for us. We got it, and liked it. If we could speak Portuguese, maybe we would have had more options, but if you only speak English, there is one picture. Lol
    6) Taking an escape from everyday living, enjoying nature, and peaceful solitude, not having any idea what the day or date is. Honest, everyday we ask each other "What day is today?"
    Meer informatie

  • Day 5 - To Tomar

    30 april 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    A little over 19 miles today and that was a push. It was a low energy day. Sure glad we scheduled tomorrow as a rest day. Tomar looks like a fun place to check out - we are in the old city.

    Spent some time with our Danish friends, mostly at a cafe stop that was long overdue. While at the cafe we also met a young couple from Siberia. I bet they were loving the 80s weather with sunny skies.

    It was a challenging day. We both started out dragging and then had to go 14 miles before we came to an open cafe and could get some coffee, juice, cold water and/or beer. Earlier we stopped on a park bench and then later in the shade of a tree to eat what we were carrying. Today we left the river Teo and started up. A lot of ups and downs, but mostly ups, through a few nice neighborhoods and then through the forest. It was a hot, quiet, peaceful day.
    Meer informatie

  • Camino Day 4 - to Golega

    29 april 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 79 °F

    Did a little over 20.25 miles today. It seemed easy helped by the fact it was only mid 70s with a great breeze most of the way.

    Walked several miles through vineyards followed by miles of cornfields. In both cases, we were right in the middle of the fields.

    Met more pilgrims today, two from Bangor, Maine (Dan & Heather) and our friends from Denmark, all struggling to get through another 20 mile day. Our friends from Denmark, Connie and Lisbeth, retired teachers, did the Camino Frances last year. They said that the Frances was more hilly, but was easier to do because there are cafes everywhere and lots of places to stay. You could determine how far you wanted to walk. Here, you have to walk until there is a place to stay, which could be 10 miles or 20 miles, but nothing in between! And there have only been two or three cafes throughout the 20 miles. We have been making reservations 3 and 4 days out and sometimes have to call 2 or 3 places to get a room. Once we get to Porto, things should be different as many people start there.
    Meer informatie

  • Camino Day 3 - to Santarem

    28 april 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 81 °F

    21 miles today and the weather forecasters are as bad here as they are at home. Last night, the forecast was for a cloudy day. We didn't see many clouds and most were in the morning when it was cool. Very little shade, once again. The last 1.5 miles were up hill.

    Today we walked primarily through farmland - some ready to be planted, some recently planted, and we saw tomatoes being planted by a big machine doing several rows at a time. There were so many picturesque moments, but pictures would not do then justice (and if I stopped every time I wanted a picture, it would have taken us another hour!)

    We walked with Jeff from California for a while today and met Connie and Lizbet from Denmark. Jeff is 71 and did the Frances last year as a 70th birthday present to himself. Lots of bikers doing the camino as well.
    Meer informatie

  • Camino Day 2 - to Azambuja

    27 april 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 88 °F

    We decided on a short day, only 12 miles. A couple reasons:. To get a good sleep and adapt to the physical routine, and because it was 91 deg when we stopped hiking and there was zero shade. The next 3 days look to be 20 mile days .

    Today we met up with our Portuguese friends again. They are on a 5 day trip to Fatima. They range in age from 33 - 58 and are all from the same church. This is a true spiritual pilgrimage for them. They tried to convince us to go to Fatima first and then on to Santiago but we don't need anymore extra miles. We won't see them again as they were going farther today and will shortly veer off of our path. Bom Camino!

    We have met the other Americans. Jason is from Florida and we met him at the restaurant last night. We may or may not see him again. He had a plan and walks much faster than us. Today we met two ladies from California as we were leaving the cafe we stopped at, Allison and Jaz.

    I am thankful for:
    - those walking poles!!! When my legs get tired, they are a little extra support.
    - GPS. We follow the camino trail of yellow arrows but sometimes they are hard to find. It is nice to know you are on the right track or if you are off of it before you have gone too far.
    - flowers, animals, and things that I said, "oh, we have that at home!" We are really not all that different
    Meer informatie

  • Camino Day 1 Lisbon.Vila Franca de Xira

    26 april 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 82 °F

    Walked 21.75 miles under sunny skies, 84 degrees with little shade. We collapsed onto beds upon entering our room. Tomorrow is to be 89 deg.

    We left from Lisbon and saw 5 pilgrims from Lisbon who are walking the Camino to Fatima, a much more popular route in southern Portugal. We also passed 2 Slovenians who were biking to Santiago and a Frenchman and a Canadian walking- actually, they passed us. Other than that, it was just the two of us walking through parks, fields, along highways, or over boardwalks.

    We are at Retiro and spoke with Jason from Florida. He is a 40 year old doing his second Camino. He said his flight landed at 8:00AM and he went directly to cathedral to pick up his Camino passport. He obviously walked faster than us, arriving only an hour later.

    This was the second time we went into a restaurant only to be told that the kitchen didn't open until 7:00. That was ok, just gave us some dedicated beer drinking time.

    Things we learned.
    - Stop at the cafes along the way when you see them - we didn't and then they weren't around when we wanted one.
    -. Carry snacks!! (Fortunately, we did!)
    - Carry extra water it fill up at the cafes you stop at. We ran out before we got to our final destination.

    I'm thankful for:
    - the beautiful wildflowers that were in season today.
    - our health. Although we were very tired and very sore, we made it without complications.
    Meer informatie

Creëer uw eigen reisprofiel

Gratis

QR code

FindPenguins voor iOSFindPenguins voor Android