• Seville part 2

    29 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    Flamenco dancer show, neighborhood town of Trianna, Cathedral de Seville rooftop tour.

    We got to explore the cathedral rooftop right around sunset, making for some fantastic views. The higher we climbed on the roofs, the narrower the stairwells became.Leia mais

  • Seville - around the town

    27 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    On the streets of Seville - Jacque!!!, Flamenco dancers, Plaza de Espana from the 1929 World's Fair, Alcazar castle

  • Madrid - part 3

    26 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 61 °F

    Bar/tapa hopping. You work your way up to a usually crowded bar and order a short beer. They usually give you a sample of something. You can also order small plates. Each bar has a specialty. You stand at the bar to eat and drink. If you sit, it costs more. So much fun!Leia mais

  • Madrid - part 2

    26 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ 🌧 59 °F

    Prado Art Museum, Reina Sofia Modern Art Museum, Puerto del Sol, Plaza Mayor, Retiro Park, Royal Botanical Gardens,

    Jeff is definitely more of a Prado guy than a Sofia guy. I like the realism of the classics as opposed to the surrealism found in the Sofia.

    Retiro is a big city park with lots going on including places to eat and drink. We were there twice, including killing time before our train out of town. It was Saturday morning and there were lots of group activities going on.

    The botanical gardens had a wide variety of plants and trees but not much was in bloom.
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  • Jeff's Musings on the Camino

    24 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    This is a work in process but a collection of thoughts to date. They are in no specific order.

    -- People are with us for a season

    I encountered many people on the Camino.  Some meetings were no more than a "where are you from?" and we passed on.  Others I came to know a bit more about:  their name, whether they had done any previous caminos, but, again, we were soon parted.  Then there were those we spent several days with: not entire days but we would walk together some, share cafe breaks with, and eat dinner with.  However, soon our paths would part, usually because one of us would walk a longer day and we would become separated.  Those are the people I would think about:  "I wonder where are Lisbeth and Connie (or Dan and Heather) are now?"

    This caused me to reflect on my life and the thousands of people I have encountered on my journey through it.  People come and go throughout our lives.  Some make a big impression on us and we will always remember them.  Others, we don't even know their name.  Regardless, we are all on our own journeys and will part ways at some point.

    -- We choose what we pack

    As I traveled the Camino, I saw people with all sizes of packs. Some were so small, it caused me to think "They must have sent their pack on ahead and this is just their day pack.".

    As we traveled on, I realized I had things that I didn't really need but I didn't want to just leave them behind. I would rather travel with a heavier load "just in case", even if that meant I had to bear a heavier load and work harder with every step.

    This caused me to reflect a on my life: how much baggage have I carried that served no purpose other than to make the load heavier. How much "stuff" do I have for that "just in case" or "maybe someday" situation. How much easier would life be if I ditched all of the things I carry that have no utility.

    We all have burdens that we have to carry that might not be of our own choosing but how much do we carry that we could jettison that would "lighten our pack" and make our journey easier? This is a question I need to regularly ask myself.

    -- It's not a race or competition

    I typically have a very competitive mindset and I had to work at this on the Camino. I would see people moving faster and feel like I was falling behind. I needed to remind myself that I wasn't competing - we are all traveling at our own pace and there isn't any prize or benefit in being first. In fact, there really can't be a "first".

    This is something I want to keep in mind when the Camino ends and life continues. Although I am at a point in life where competition is not as important, it is still something I want to be mindful of. "Competition" might take the
    form of possessions or experiences (like trips). In any case, I will be happier just moving though life at my place and not trying to complete with anyone else.

    -- Enjoy the moment

    Why would it be that the last leg of a daily journey be the hardest, no matter how far being traveled that day? It seemed this was the case almost every day for me on the Camino.

    As I pondered this, I came to realize it was because I wanted to be somewhere else at that point ("done", wherever that was) and I wasn't enjoying the moment where I was.

    How much suffering have I inflicted on myself throughout life by wanting to be somewhere else, wanting to be "done" or wanting to be starting something different -- rather than just being present where I was. How much pain caused bywishing I had this or had done that?

    I need to constantly remind myself to be present in the moment, wherever I am, in whatever situation I find myself - and not living in the future or the past.

    -- Sun and clouds

    As I journeyed on my Camino, I realized that what I thought I wanted and what would be best might not be the same. Easy enough to understand wanting sunny skies and no rain. Well, I soon changed my tune and became disappointed when the forecasts of cloudy skies were wrong and all we had was sun. When rain was forecast and we only had a light sprinkle. I soon wanted cloudy or rainy days and all we had was sun! The blessing was to be found in the clouds and rain - it made the journey easier.

    All too often throughout life, I have thought I had known what I wanted or what would be best only to learn otherwise. The weather on the Camino served as a good reminder: there are blessings to be found everywhere, even when it isn't what our wishes or plans hoped for.

    -- Getting started

    As with so many things in life, getting started tended to be the hardest. And that was all in my head. Once I put my pack on and took my first steps, the "getting started" burden was lifted and the steps came easy.

    This certainly isn't a new realization for me but it serves as a great reminder for any task or goal that i need to tackle: just take the first step and get started, the rest gets easier.

    -- Eat, drink and be merry

    There were a number of things that made the first days on the Camino hard. Of course, the distances were longer than I was used to and it was hot. But beyond that, I wasn't eating and drinking enough (and that is hard for me to believe, especially the eating part). Once I realized I needed to do a better job of fueling my body, the journey got easier.

    The other thingi discovered is that by taking time to rest (and this could be combined with eating and drinking) my day became easier, but not longer because i was able to perform better.

    I have always believed in the importance of vacations and getting away from the day to day routine. However, I have not done such a good job of taking the time to relax and spend time with people on a day to day basis -- under the guise of being to busy. While I may be at a point in life where I can't legitimately use the "too busy" line, I think i need to be conscious of this and make a better effort of taking time to rest in the company of others.

    -- All journeys must end

    The end of my camino created a mixture of feelings. On one hand, it was good to have achieved the goal and to be done. On the other, I really liked the daily rhythm of the Camino: a fixed routine, ticking off the miles as we walked and the days as we progressed.

    All of our life journeys end at some point. Sometimes we choose the ending and other times it is chosen for us. The end of a journey can bring a wide range off emotions: happiness, relief, sadness, grief...... And many times it is a combination.

    We are all on a number of smaller treks that make up our life journey. Each of these treks will end at some point, as will our earthly life journey. There is nothing we can do to change that.

    Enjoy the journeys, move toward your goals, and cherish the people you meet along the Way.
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  • Day 28 Santiago de Compostela

    23 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    We did it! 411 miles from Lisbon to Santiago. We finished today with a little over 14 hilly miles some in the forest, some on country roads, a little through the city coming into Santiago. We walked with Bryanne the entire way. She has done 4 Caminos (some partial) but has never walked into Santiago with someone, so today we were a Camino family, walking in together. Along the way we passed a lot of people we have seen over and over. It was fun to see many of them walking into the plaza, also accomplishing their goal. One man, Marco, is from Brazil and had walked across Spain to get here. He has been walking for 70 days! And a German couple has walked 10 days with their 7 month old and a 4 year old. Mom carried the baby and dad pushed a stroller. Talk about not letting your kids slow you down! We did miss seeing out Australian friend, Alek today.

    The Cathedral of Santiago is beautiful. They hold a pilgrims mass in English at 12:00 and it is packed. We weren't here in time but we were able to visit the Cathedral later.

    It is kind of surreal. Yesterday I (Eileen) was ready to be done and today I don't want it to be over. We have met so many wonderful people and had so many great experiences. We are very, very grateful!!

    From here we will be touring in Spain -- Madrid, Seville, and Barcelona. We will post pictures from each place, but not on a daily basis. Thanks for following!
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  • Day 27 to Padron

    22 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    Today was another beautiful 13.25 miles along old roman roads that are now country roads through farmland and forest areas. Today we saw real life happening as people were cleaning their houses and working in their expansive gardens. There also were goats and a lot of chickens in the yards. These last two days are more of what we expected the Camino to look like.

    Again, there were many pilgrims and yet many times it seemed that we had the trail to ourselves. The pilgrims all managed to get together at the cafes which were sufficient but not in abundance.

    We didn't meet anyone new today but did catch up with a few old friends that we haven't seen for 3 or 4 days since along the coast.

    We are at a hotel just outside of the town of Padron, so there is nothing here to explore. But the hotel grounds are beautiful and we will enjoy drinks in the garden.

    We had a wonderful dinner at the hotel with pilgrim friends Chris and Chrissy from Texas, Bryanna from Boston, and Alicia from Sweden. It is great baking friends if there Camino! Everyone is looking forward to Santiago!

    Only one day off walking left - under 25 km!!
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  • Day 26 - to Caldas de Reis

    21 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was a fast 13.75 mile hike with only a 15 minute break. We had our latest start to date but ended up getting in earlier than planned to the place we were walking. The weather was beautiful again, with sunny skies and a high of 75 degrees. The terrain was mostly level and primarily on wooded lanes or paths. We encountered many pilgrims on their way to Santiago. To get the certificate for walking the Camino, one has to walk the last 100km. A lot of people just walk that amount making the trail more crowded the closer we get.

    We met Paul, a 29 year old originally from Philadelphia. He now calls Vancouver, BC home but has been traveling and living out of his backpack since December. He has been around the world on this trip, with much of it in Asia and the Pacific. He plans on being back in the USA in a month.

    We spent time this afternoon walking with Alek from Australia. We had met him yesterday. Interesting discovery from today's conversation: he is 78 years old! You would never guess.

    Only 2 more days of hiking planned. Contributing to our shorter hikes:
    - the longer days early in the trip
    - we originally planned on taking 4 rest days during the trip and will end up only taking 3.
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  • Day 25 to Pontevedra

    20 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    12.5 miles today along some country roads and through a lot of wooded areas. It was a beautiful day to hike, in the 70's with a breeze, and beautiful scenery. The nicest day we've had since we left the coast.

    There are many more pilgrims on the trail since the two different paths merged. It is not crowded, but you can always see people in front of you and behind you. It is also an opportunity for locals to sell things along the way making it a little tacky. There was a long stretch through the woods without any where to stop and one local took advantage of it by selling fruit and drinks and set up places to sit. It was a popular place .

    Today we met Alek from Perth, Australia and walked with him for a few hours. He worked in land management and then at the age of 50 he went back to get his PhD in Environmental Science. He said it was the best thing he ever did. You are never too old to do something new, I guess! Nice guy and he knew all about the plants in the area.

    We also learned about two things that we have seen a lot but didn't know what they were.
    The first is a Horreo - a small building found in farms and most country yards. It is a grainery used to store corn, grains, and root vegetables. It is on pedestal legs so rodents can't get to the food and has vents to keep the food from molding. The oldest one dates back to the 13th century.
    The second is a lavior - a public washing area. They are big squares filled with water usually from a spring or other water source and have a covered roof. People used to wash their clothes there. These date back to at least the 17th century. They are in every older town. We did see one lady washing some towels in one.

    We didn't get our full of walking during the day so we probably walked another 2 miles or so during late afternoon and evening exploring the town.

    Only three walking days left!
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  • Day 24 Vigo to Redondela

    19 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Vigo is a rather large city and the first 2 miles were through the edge of town. Imagine walking for 2.5 miles through Oakland or South Side going slightly uphill the entire way. Not very exciting. After getting through town we went straight up and then hit some beautiful forest and country areas with the ocean within view for part of the time.

    It was a short day of only about 11 miles and our last day on the coastal trail. Now we meet up with all of the pilgrims traveling on the central path. There is a cafe where the two trails come together and there were many pilgrims there. We met a young man from Lisbon who is doing the Camino backwards from Santiago to Lisbon. Today was the first day that we didn't see any country animals. :(
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  • Day 23 to Vigo

    18 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    Another easy day of about 13 miles either along the coast or within view of the ocean up until we entered the city of Vigo where we went through an area with working shipyards. The weather was perfect, in the 70's, with a nice breeze. The beaches have been beautiful and surprising. There are topless and totally nude beaches here. ( Zoom in if interested.)

    We walked with two German ladies for a while. One of them had heard of the Camino and wanted to do it. She left her husband at home because he works too much and decided to come alone. She said, as we have heard before, I came alone, but I'm never alone. The two of them caught a bus at lunchtime since they were both having foot issues.

    Note: Eileen took the beach photos.

    After settling into our room, we went out into the square and listened to music while we drank beer and watched the people pass by.
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  • Day 22 - to A Ramallosa

    17 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Easy, peasy day -- just a little over 12 miles under sunny skies. We split our time right along the coast and up and over some wooded hills.

    We hiked some with Brianna (age 75) again, along with Chris and Christy from New Braunfels, TX. They had hiked the Frances back in 2019. Their collegiate athlete daughter hiked the first week with them back in 2019 but her feet got so bad they had to send her home.

    We went a long way without any cafes but were able to stop for a nice lunch and beverage with our companions.

    Today was a day of horses and bikes. We passed a lot of horses to this morning, then a lot of bikers, and then later a bike race.

    Once settled in our room, we headed out to the patio door a beer and some trip planning, making additional reservations.

    Dinner was pizza and wine , with a short walk along the beach planned yet. Wine and beer have been staples. It could be because we are in beach areas but based on 2 days in Spain, restaurant prices appear significantly higher than Portugal.
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  • Day 21 Caminha to Viladesuso - Oia

    16 de maio de 2023, Espanha ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Our first day in Spain! We took a water taxi across the river to reach the Spanish border where we hiked 13.5 miles. The boat driver hit a rock or something as we started our but no apparent damage. We hiked through some forests and roads but always within view of the ocean. The last couple of miles were through fields near the rocky coast. The weather was in the 70's and there was a slight breeze most of the day making for delightful hiking.

    Last night at dinner we met Brianna and Chris from Boston. It is Chris's first Camino but it is Brianna's 4th. She is 75 years old. She did her first Camino at the age of 65. She had a year where she battled and beat a type of cancer and then decided to walk some more, feeling blessed that she can. We spent several miles walking together today. She walks faster than we do (and Chris too, as she left him behind!).

    Our hotel is right near the water so we wandered down to the rocks and soaked our feet (and maybe a little more) in the ocean for a little therapy. Hearing the ocean all day and then again as we go to sleep is therapy too!
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  • Day 20 Viana do Castelo to Caminha

    15 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    It is our last day in Portugal. Tomorrow we cross over into Spain. Portugal did not disappoint on its final day of 17 miles. We started through cobble stoned country roads between large walls. Behind the walls were fields, gardens, even houses with the old wall as part of the house. Then we hit some forests with large stones and eucalyptus trees. As we moved through this varied views, we frequently hat views of the seas. Finally we ended with a beautiful walk along the coast with a small breeze.

    We met some ladies from the Philadelphia area - Charlene and Jen - and walked with them for a few miles and a girl from the Netherlands. Getting to talk with others makes the walk go faster. They stopped for the day before we did and we probably won't see them again, but it was a nice afternoon.
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  • Day 19 Esposende to Viana do Castelo

    14 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Today was 17 miles through suburban, cobble stone roads, some forests, and some country roads with pigs, cows, and goats, and past a lot of churches. While beautiful, it was a rather boring day. We moveed inland a little because the coast path is beaten up, so that brought warmer weather and hills. There are many pilgrims on the road and we pass each other often wishing each other Bom Camino. - good journey. Many people are in groups or couples, and some travel alone. It is fun when you see people traveling alone pair up, chat and giggle for a few miles, friends being made.

    Our room is near the water and we had a drink by the river in this cute town. Then we went in search of something to eat and found... the golden arches! Yes, we found McDonald's in a mall only minutes from our room. And we enjoyed every bite with beer! Don't judge, we have eaten a lot of Portuguese food. Lol.
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  • Churches,, churches, churches

    14 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    This is a very small percentage of all of the churches, religious monuments, and vigils that we have seen. The best part is that all of the churches in the center of the town play their bells on the hour and some on the quarter hour. They sound beautiful.Leia mais

  • Day 18 - to Esposende

    13 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    This was our easiest walk yet - exactly 15 miles and no hills. A bit windy near the end but not bad - and no sand storm. We really weren't even tired when finishing.

    Part of the walk was right along the beach while other parts were through towns and green spaces. We passed by a golf course that was just off the beach and saw a few football matches.

    For several hours, we were accompanied by 29 year old Oleh from the Ukraine. Oleh is living and working in Munich. He went there to complete his master's and then got a job. When the war in Ukraine started, his father lost his job. It was decided that Oleh would stay in Germany to work and help support his family in the Ukraine while his 59 year old father serves in the artillery of Ukraine's army. He can not go back to Ukraine. From this mother's perspective, it breaks my heart. He is walking the Camino looking for an emotional respite as the last year has been emotionally very difficult for him.

    We had lunch at a cafe in Fao, just a short distance before we stopped for the day. The owner was quite friendly and even provided his card with phone number in the event we needed help. Right before leaving, he decorated 2 stones as souvenirs.
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  • Day 17 Porto to Vila do Conde

    12 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 66 °F

    So when leaving Porto, you have a choice to take the central route which follows roads, towns, forests, roman roads, etc like we have been doing, or to take the coastal route along or near the Portuguese coastline and the Atlantic ocean. We have always planned on taking the coastal trail even though it is a little bit longer and less popular. About a third of the pilgrims take the coastal trail.

    Today we started and immediately felt blessed. How thankful we are to be able to do this together, the air was cool with a slight breeze, the sun bright, the view amazing. The first 10 miles went by quickly. The ocean was beautiful with rocks, surfers, breaking waves, nice beach towns, and we even passed through a working fishing village. All beautiful in its own way. And then, after lunch .... the wind started. For most of the next 10 miles we had headwinds of 17 - 23 miles an hour! It made walking a lot harder. There was a stretch of about 3 miles near the end that was barren, nothing around except sand dunes on either side of the boardwalk. The wind was at 23 mph then and we were getting sandblasted! It was like walking across the desert.

    We thought we were going to walk 18 miles today but somehow did 21! I don't know how we miscalculated so badly. Even so, we are not feeling too bad. We must be getting stronger. Though this trail is less popular, there are many more pilgrims now than in the first half of the trip. We didn't spend much time with any of them yet but today we met two people from Italy, and some from Germany, and Poland.
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  • Day 16 - more resting in Porto

    11 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 70 °F

    A somewhat lazy day in Porto, a lot less walking than yesterday. But that changes tomorrow, looking at about 18 miles. The weather has been fantastic and the forecast continues to look good.

    We started off with a trip to the big Porto market. The facility was renovated fairly recently so it doesn't look its age. We had some breakfast there and just browsed.

    The next stop was one on the fanciest McDonald's on the planet. It is in a historic location that once was occupied by a cafe. McDonald's was allowed to move in on the condition they maintain the original decor, including the crystal chandelier.

    Since we enjoyed the port wine tasting so much yesterday, we decided to take a 2 hour river cruise with port wine tasting. There were only 6 of us (plus 2 crew) on the boat including a couple from Russia now living in southern Portugal and a couple from England in for a week vacation.

    We ate dinner at a restaurant right next to where we are staying then went across the street to Bonaparte's for a drink.
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  • Day 15 Rest day in Porto

    10 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    What do you do on a rest day? Take a walking tour of the city of course - only a few miles, seeing the major sights, and learning some history. There were at least 8 countries represented in the group of 25 on our tour.

    While visiting the Se Cathedral, we heard music. The Penn State Glee Club was having a rehearsal in the church. They were performing there in the evening and then three other places in Portugal this week. What a surprise!

    Across the bridge from Porto is Gaia, a town where port wine is aged. We did port wine tasting in two different places. The first was a larger company called Taylor's. The setting was a rose garden with peacocks and a friendly rooster. It was very peaceful and you easily forgot where you were. The second was a family run place called Quevedo with a neighborhood home feeling. Both had good port wine.

    Porto is built in a hill along the river. Gaia is along the river on the other side. There is a lot of walking up hills or taking Ubers which we did to go to dinner and back to our guest house.

    There are two dishes that Porto is known for. Francesinha is a bread with steak, two kinds of sausage, cheese, another slice of bread, covered with a slightly spicy sauce and then can be topped with a fried egg. Jeff has had this twice. The other is tripe stew, yet to be tasted. Otherwise, there is a lot of fish on the menus.
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  • Day 14 Malaposta to Porto

    9 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Since we were staying in a pretty nice hotel, we decided to sleep in and take advantage of their breakfast before we started, therefore we got a little later start today. There was a light rain when we started and the morning was mostly overcast making for nice hiking. There was also a nice breeze all day even when the sun came out making for a pretty delightful day. Unfortunately, the scenery was pretty boring. Think about walking around your suburban neighborhoods for 17 miles. That's what today was. We saw nice areas, run down areas, some shops, restaurants, and some businesses all on cobble stone roads, then repeat. We had a little bit of eucalyptus wooded area and one monastery for a little variety, but really pretty boring. We added some steps and a hill because we missed an arrow! But walking into Porto made up for it. What a beautiful city! We are taking a two day rest from walking so we can explore the city of Porto.

    We saw our Mexican friends early in the day once but that was it for anyone we knew. Saw very few pilgrims going our way.

    This week in Porto, students at that university are celebrating the end of the year of studies. There was a parade today (before we got here) and the square we had to walk through had thousands of students wearing top hats and canes as well as the traditional school robe. The color of their hat reflected their course of study. They have activities planned for the week.

    Trivia note - JK Rowling spent two years in Porto after her mom died. There were many Portuguese influences that have appeared in her Harry Potter books, including the cloaks that university students wear.
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  • Day 13 to Malaposta

    8 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Before we talk about today, let us tell you about last night. Casa Catolica is the best pilgrim experience!!. Paulo welcomed us, showed us the kitchen with fresh drinks and snacks, where to do laundry and hang in the garden, our room, the hammocks, and invited us to make ourselves at home. Oh yeah, and dinner was at 7:30. Casa Catolica is between towns so there is no where to go to eat or to shop for groceries. We showered and then socialized with the other pilgrims.

    We met a wonderful couple, Eddie and Elizabeth from Cleveland, Ohio and Fia (Fiona) from Ireland. Fia is only 28 years old and travels for a living. She goes somewhere and works, saves money, and then travels somewhere new. She spent the last two Christmas seasons in Lapland, Finland as an elf in the magical ice castle. On the Camino she spends some nights sleeping in her hammock in the woods or behind an abandoned building. She thinks she wants to settle down and she is using the Camino to figure out what she wants to do. She has been in 27 countries.

    Paulo runs the Alberque. He definitely has a gift for hospitality. He knew everyone staying there by name and would give you the shirt off of his back if you needed it. He usually has about 8 pilgrims a night, but tonight, because of the Fatima pilgrimage, there were 22 pilgrims there last night. He made room for as many as possible, putting mattresses on the floor. He even made sure that Jeff and I had beds and not bunk beds or on the floor, because we were older! There were 25 people for dinner from at least 5 different countries. What an experience! We had meat, vegetables, potatoes, eggs, bread, olives, wine, dessert, and an homemade orange after-dinner liquor. And all for a donation. It was a lot of fun. If you ever want a Camino experience without the walking, volunteer at an Alberque like this one!

    Today was what is becoming a usual day. A lot of street walking, mostly through suburbs, though we did walk on some authentic roman roads from at least the 15th centuries. We did 17.1 miles today and a lot of very tall hills. It was in the low 70's and there was a nice breeze. We are staying at a hotel as there are few accommodations between here and Porto.

    We had a fantastic seafood dinner for two, a bottle of wine, appetizers, and after dinner drink for about $55 .

    Many pilgrims take a taxi from here to Porto because tomorrow involves a lot of main road walking. We intend to walk it all but we reserve the right to take a cab if the road conditions are not safe.
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  • Day 12 - to Branca

    7 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    We hiked 16.8 miles under sunny skies with temps in the low 70s with a wonderful breeze. A lot of it was on roads but we also had some woodland scenery.

    We met a mother and daughter (Caitlyn) from New Zealand. Mom had done the Frances Camino 11 years earlier. Caitlyn had invited her mother along on the Camino and mom jumped at the opportunity.

    Today we saw many hundreds (likely over 1000) pilgrims on their way to Fatima for the annual celebration that takes place on May 13. Most were in large groups supported by vans with food and gear. None of them were carrying packs. Some were singing, dinner saying the rosary, some carrying banners, most just walking with their church groups and socializing. Fatima is going to be hopping on Thursday!

    Twice we passed people playing "American" music - We are the Champions, and Hey Jude. We smiled and started singing along!

    As we neared our destination, we looked for a place to get some minimal food for the morning. We like to have some things on hand because some mornings we have traveled 6 - 8 miles before finding an open cafe. We weren't finding anywhere as we headed out of the small town when a lady in one of the Fatima supply vans asked if we wanted an apple (maca) as we walked by. When i said yes, she opened the back of the van and handed me two oranges, then two apples. She then asked if we wanted bananas and i said yes. Before she got the bananas, c she asked if we wanted cake, which I said yes. She cut us 2 big slices off a pound cake (which we immediately ate) and then proceeded to hand us 4 bananas. So, we weren't able to buy what we were looking for but it was provided - more than enough to see us through tomorrow morning.

    Tonight is our first night in a shared room in true pilgrim fashion. We were to be in a room with 4 but Paulo had to improvise too accommodate everyone. Because of the Fatima pilgrimage, there are tons of people looking for accommodations. I will be sleeping on a fold out couch. A group dinner (28 people) will be served at 1930 (7:30).

    Our roommates included Luis and Fia, asking with a man we never met.
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  • Day 11 - Sernadelo to Agueda

    6 de maio de 2023, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Today was an almost perfect Camino day. There was cloud cover, with a light rain this morning, cooler temperatures, several cafe stops, and only 15.5 miles. With the exception of a section of an industrial zone, the walk went through lots of towns and suburbs. It was all on roads again but today there were plenty of sidewalks and wide berms. The suburbs have refurbished old houses into beautiful neighborhoods.

    Earlier this week someone said that the Camino had a way of hiding pilgrims! Today we didn't see any of our old friends until we reached our accommodations. Depending on when you start, how long you stop, and how fast you walk, many people can be on the trail and never see each other. Last night we were philosophically comparing the Camino to life. (Maybe it was the wine!). Like in life, we have met many people - some just in passing, some for a while, and some for the distance (so far). There are plenty of people that we have seen around, know that they are on the same journey, but have not had the opportunity to speak with them. Then there are those that we got to know and enjoyed their company, but our time with them wasn't to be long. Jeff (California) and Senid (South Africa) were both in their 70's and said they know their limits. They were only doing 10-12 miles a day. Alex (Germany) also was only doing short distances. He is only 50 but had overworked himself the last couple of years and is using the Camino to teach himself to slow down. We knew when we left them that we will probably not see them again but we thoroughly enjoyed meeting them.

    Then there are the people that are currently on the same path as us sometimes even staying in the same places. These are the people that you daily share the highs and lows of each day, encouragement, and even a glass of beer. How long this will go on we don't know. There are many more miles and many more pilgrims to meet. What role each plays for us is yet to be seen. Maybe a few of them will become lifetime friends! Stay tuned as this chapter keeps evolving!

    Today, we meet Luis who spends have his time in northern California and half in southern Mexico. He and his wife have been doing this for 6 years. He says live in Mexico has less stress, 70 -80 degrees year round, and are able to have a housekeeper and a gardener. I think he said this is his 4th Camino. Luis did not appear to be 50 yet.

    We have heard lots of church bells as we travel, some even out of tune. Hearing the bells reminds me (Jeff) of hearing the bells from st. Michaels every 15 minutes when i was young.
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