South America ’23

September - October 2023
Join us on an epic Sth American adventure! From tango nights in Buenos Aires to samba vibes in Rio, we'll desert-hop in Atacama, get high (altitude-wise) in La Paz, salsa through Colombia, and wrap up with sun-kissed LA. Ready for a wild ride? 🌎🌞🌵 Read more
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  • 77videos
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  • Day 2

    City walk

    September 2, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    In the afternoon, we embarked on yet another extensive walk through the city, exploring its iconic landmarks and absorbing the vibrant atmosphere. Our journey led us to the heart of Buenos Aires, where we marveled at the imposing Obelisco, which stands proudly at the center of Avenida 9 de Julio. While it's especially breathtaking when illuminated at night, even during the daytime, this towering monument commands attention and symbolizes the city's grandeur.

    Our quest took us further to the El Ateneo Grand Splendid bookstore, a must-visit destination for any book enthusiast. However, we couldn't resist a brief detour to admire the magnificent Teatro Colón from the outside. This world-renowned opera house is a true architectural gem, often hailed as one of the finest in the world.

    On our way back, we strolled past two captivating plazas: Plaza del Congreso and Plaza Mariano Moreno, each with its unique charm and history. It was around this point that the wear and tear on our feet began to show, and I couldn't help but complain about the soreness. A day of exploration had led to an impressive 28,000 steps or roughly 21 kilometers, as reported by my trusty phone.
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  • Day 2

    Argentinian BBQ

    September 2, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Argentina's love affair with BBQ, or "asado" as they call it, is truly something to behold. They take grilling to a whole new level, and admittedly their BBQ prowess puts Australia's to shame – though they give us credit when it comes to rugby.

    For dinner tonight, we had the privilege of experiencing a local tradition: a homemade Parrilla, where a lovely Argentine couple welcomed us into their home to savor an authentic Argentinian Asado. The menu featured an enticing array of meats, including black pudding, succulent pork belly, mouthwatering rib-eye, and flavorful tri-tip. Each meat dish was expertly paired with a selection of fine Argentinian wines, making it a gastronomic delight.

    While we, six foreigners, were fortunate to enjoy this feast tonight, it's worth noting that this is a weekly event where the hosts typically gather with family and friends, making it a cherished tradition.

    And here's where things got amusing: as we waited to enter the home, two other guests arrived and struck up a conversation, only to discover they were both from San Diego. What a quirky coincidence! But the surprises didn't end there. Inside, we met another couple who hailed from Brisbane. It's a small world indeed, especially when you're sharing a meal in a foreign land.

    To cap off the evening, we were introduced to an intriguing drink called Fernet Branca. With its potent herbal flavor, even mixing it with Coca-Cola didn't tame its distinctive taste. It was a fitting end to a memorable night filled with culinary delights and unexpected connections.
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  • Day 3

    Tigre Delta

    September 3, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    When Alex said today we were “going with the flow” I didn’t expect that to mean the flow of flood waters. While Tigre, a massive Delta to the north of Buenos Aires, is normally full of sunshine we got a once in a lifetime opportunity to see it in flood. Now it does flood often, about 20 days a year, but today was special because it was a very rare “backwards” flood which meant the currents were going in a different direction to normal.

    While it was cold and wet, we couldn’t have asked for a more fascinating experience as we hopped into a small boat with 2 locals who have spent their lives living in the delta along with 70,000 others who have no cars, and use boats to get around. Daily life here is all about the water, from swimming down to the local shop holding your groceries in one hand above the water, to the fascinating way they build new houses starting with a dock and a BBQ so every weekend they can invite friends and family around to eat good food and build their house.

    We got to see some amazing bird life, go down the smallest tributaries, get stuck in seagrass, and even stop at a restaurant on the water for a coffee.

    Of course what made it special was the people. We have been so lucky so far on our trip to get some really local experiences and Fer was a passionate Tigre local who spent the day telling us stories, from fishing and drinking stories, to life on the delta from its highs and lows. We left feeling not only that we had visited Tigre but that we understood life in the Tigre Delta.
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  • Day 3

    La Carbrera Restaurant

    September 3, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    La Carbrera is one of the most popular restaurants in BA, and it’s not uncommon to wait over an hour to get in. Luckily we had a reservation weeks in advance so we walked right in to start enjoying an expensive wine from a winery Alex visited during his last trip. I let Alex talk me into ordering entrails (pork intestines), and we also feasted on some chorizo and pork steaks.

    The highlight was the ice cream. There is a strong Italian culture in BA and the ice cream here is as good or better than you will get in Italy. This was some of the best ice cream I have ever had!!!
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  • Day 4

    Colonia del Sacramento

    September 4, 2023 in Uruguay ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Today, we left Argentina and crossed the waters by ferry to Uruguay, specifically Colonia del Sacramento.

    Colonia del Sacramento, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a remarkable history. Founded by the Portuguese in 1680, it became a point of contention between the Portuguese and Spanish empires for many years. The town's strategic location on the Rio de la Plata made it a valuable prize in the colonial struggle for dominance in South America. But mostly for tourists to explore now. The remains of the colonial buildings are still being excavated. However, what is left is still stunningly beautiful with the cobblestone streets and pastel-colored buildings. We walked around the entire village to explore (also to fill in Alex's Fog of World). I don't know if it's the cold keeping people away or what, but we basically had the place to ourselves, and it was so nice.

    We stopped at a restaurant called Amor Amor, which was a cute name. There, we went full Uruguay by having the national dish and the national dessert.

    In Uruguay, the "Chivito al Plato" main dish was a flank steak, with ham in top, under a layer of cheese and an egg to top it off. A side of regular salad and potato salad too with a serve of fries. The Chivito is said to have originated in the 1940s at a restaurant in Punta del Este, Uruguay. Legend has it that a tourist from Argentina requested a sandwich made with baby goat (chivito in Spanish), but the chef, lacking this particular ingredient, improvised by using thinly sliced beef instead.

    For dessert, Uruguayans take pride in "chaja," a delightful confection that comprises layers of sponge cake, meringue, and peaches. This sweet treat reflects the nation's love for desserts that balance lightness with a touch of indulgence, making it the perfect way to round off our meal in Uruguay.
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  • Day 4

    Gala Tango #2

    September 4, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    La Boca, where we visited the day after our arrival, is the birthplace of Tango. The music and dance are a blend of the cultures that immigrated to the tenements of that area. Originally, it was illegal, deemed too scandalous for the upper class. Interestingly, it was initially danced only between two men, unlike how we associate it today.

    Our show featured numerous costume changes, which was extremely impressive and well-executed. It concluded with everyone on stage singing the famous Evita song "Don't cry for me Argentina" as a tribute to Eva Perón, whose resting place we will be visiting tomorrow. However, the show ran much later than expected, so it's time for yet another 4.5-hour night of sleep.
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  • Day 4

    Gala Tango #1

    September 4, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    So I'm going to split this into two parts because there were two aspects to this night. Also, I can only upload two videos at a time.

    Tonight, we finally got to experience the famous and proudly Buenos Aires-born dance, the Tango. No one comes to Buenos Aires without experiencing this dance at least once.

    For us, the night started with a wine tasting. Surprisingly, we tried a white Malbec, which we had never seen before. Then, we had a regular red Malbec before trying an Italian wine. Unfortunately, we didn't get the labels. While most people would talk about the wine, we were more interested in the story of our sommelier, who had to escape the tyranny of living in Venezuela.

    Dinner was empanadas, ofcourse, beef cheeks, chorizo steak and then a flan and ice-cream for dessert.
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  • Day 5

    Little Paris

    September 5, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Our last breakfast in BA took us into the French district of this Latin American city - Recoleta. We don't need much convincing to have bakery, but when it's french bakery done this good, how could we deny ourselves.

    Do's Escudos.

    Cafe Cortado, which is a 50/50 split of coffee and milk. Medialunas which is Argentinian version of a coissant. And it's a rule of Alex's that if waffles are on the menu, then they must be purchased, especially when they are covered in dulce de leche.
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  • Day 5

    Recoleta cemetery

    September 5, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    The impressive Recoleta Cemetery. Unlike anything I've seen before this holds 5 hectares of some of the most impressive family crypts and mosoliums. Generations of members share these giant structures which house pioneers, doctors, political figures and military leaders. We spent a good hour here doing a lap around the entire site and still saying wow all the way to the exit.

    Some of the interesting tombs were:
    * Duarte, where Eva Peron lies. The wife of the president who broke all the rules as a first lady to fight for the rights of the working class. There is a rumour in my family history that we are related to her, given my great grandfather's last name was Duarte too. But from the research I've done, it's impossible to confirm that.

    * 19-year-old Rufina Cambecéres, who was a socialite and the only daughter of a famous Argentine writer, died suddenly in 1902. It was raining on the day her casket arrived at Recoleta so it was left in the Chapel overnight. Legend has it that a cemetery worker noticed the casket lid had been shifted, and since Rufina was from a wealthy family, they thought someone might be after her valuables and have robbed the grave. However, when her casket was opened and closely examined, the truth was much worse. None of her jewelry was missing but instead, they found scratch marks on her and all over the inside of the casket: she had been mistakenly presumed dead and was buried alive! Later thought that she had collapsed from an attack of cataplexy, which caused several doctors to believe that she was dead. When she woke up and found herself sealed in a casket, the fright, the terror and the failed attempt of escape eventually gave her a heart attack which became the real cause of her unfortunate death. But no one is sure this story is true.

    * Among other famous graves in Buenos Aires's great Recoleta Cemetery is one unusual tomb that stands out from its neighbors, looking more like a natural cave than a grave. Carlos Guido Spano, an acclaimed Argentinean poet, built this tomb for his father, General Tomás Guido.
    General Guido was a close friend of famed General José de San Martín, and had served with him during the War of Independence. Together they crossed the Cordillera de los Andes, an extremely perilous quest, and were able to combat the Spanish armies and help free Chile and Perú.

    When he returned, General Tomás Guido served as a diplomat in Argentina. He requested to be buried under the mountains that his troops had crossed with great sacrifice to liberate their neighbor countries. His son, Carlos, fulfilled his wishes. The younger Guido had all the rocks for the tomb brought from the Cordillera de los Andes and built the vault with his own hands.
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  • Day 5

    Buen Día Buenos Aires!

    September 5, 2023 in Argentina ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Alex finally realised after 4 days that he couldn’t recreate with me all the memories he had here last time he was in Argentina, and instead we made amazing new and different memories. I will never see BA through his eyes but we shared 4 incredible days together in this city known for bringing people together. While I have shared so many things on here, there are still so many other things that I don’t get time to write, like when we got to do Dulce de leche tasting ( spoiler alert - it all tastes delicious ) or gorging ourselves on Ajfajores, or seeing those 1000 monuments that Alex would have posted every detail about.

    Buenos Aires is a unique city, with so much to love and enjoy. The people are so friendly ( I can’t believe a city with this much crazy traffic has next to no honking - everyone is so polite even if lanes are either just a rough guide or completely non existent. The feel when you turn off onto a cobblestone street where you could be in Paris or Italy is surreal.

    I have to say, as much as I make fun of Alex for his planning, it has been effortless. Even when we needed to shake up plans due to the weather it has been so calm and relaxing just enjoying ourselves and being in the moment.

    Our holiday only gets more adventurous after this, I can’t wait to see what’s to come.
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