The best views are truly from the top of

A lovely communal breakfast start to the day, which also meant that we all got to experience sunrise together, and pretty much all started walking together.
It was always going to be a challenging day for me with more hills, so I soon lagged behind, but that meant I soon had the Americans from yesterday for company. They are easy company.

We came to a standstill for peak hour traffic as a shepherds herded his flock, and we were entertained throughout the journey by the often rhythmical clanging of the bells of the sheep, cows and horses we passed. (This allows shepherds and farmers to find them when the gig and clouds come in and visibility is low.)

I've always said someone watches over me, and today was no different. The coffee and cheese van on the side of the road-infamous on this route, as its the only food/drink source on a 17.75km stretch. Its run by an elderly french man. Not only was it darn good coffee, but it is his last day for the season today! Tomorrow's pilgrims will walk without this treat.

The trail then led up to the Virgin of Biakorri settled on a rocky mound, it is worshipped by shepherds.

We passed the Thibault cross- the protectress of shepherds- though it is hard to find much information on this.

We then passed through the border from France-signified only by a cattle grid and the Fountain of Roldàn. Roldán, also known as Roland, was a warrior in the army of Charlemagne. The region of France and Spain I have travelled through is the Basque region. People who live their identify as from either the north or the south-not France or Spain, and so I guess this border is irrelevant to them as they are united as one.

The trail led up to its highest point at 1420 metres. (Not the highest point of the Camino, but the highest for today.)

Today, the sun shone, and we walked into a fierce headwind for much of the way.

I walked with lots of different people.
Bettina and Nikolai from Germany. She is an English teacher, and he is a doctor. I spent a lot of time talking with Bettina.

Stafan the Finn. He makes me laugh. His wife did not want to walk, and is still working while he is retired.

Bronte the 22yr old Aussie. Her spirit of adventure is infectious. She is so lovely.

Michael from America who is my age, and a retired police officer. (Despite that he's actually ok) he is carry a bit of extra weight and is finding it tougher going, but fair play to him! We now that when he goes home his wife will not recognise him.

Fiona the Irish woman. We spent a great length together today. She is 58 and on her first Camino, and easy to be with.

There was a point today when I was walking alone, after a particularly steep climb into a headwind, where I was genuinely struck by just how significant this is for me. Though neurosarcoidosis is with me everyday, I've allowed myself the grace to forget the true impact it had for so long. Then days like today it hits me. I cried, for the realisation that not so long back I could never have contemplated this walk. I could never have managed it. I wouldn't choose the path it took me down, but I live everyday now grateful for what I have, for my health and my sight, so I will always be grateful to it in a strange kind of way

We walked into the monastery at Roncesvalles at a little after 1pm. It is a lovely place, and wat more modern than I had expected. The accommodation is good, and we sleep in booths of 4 people- to bunks.

I am sharing with Andre a Frenchman who is quiet. There is also A French woman whose name I have forgotten, and her 18 year old grandson Niko. How incredible must that be for them both, and he will forever have this memory of s rare and special thing shared with his grandmother Oh and I win the lottery....ie I scored a bottom bunk!

The routine is the same each day and despite only being the second day, I have fallen back into it. Walk, arrive, make your bed, shower, handwash the laundry, repack bag for the next day, relax, eat, and sleep. The bonus today was the laundry had an electric spinner so though handwash, my clothes dried quickly.

Before dinner tonight I attended the Pilgrim's mass. An experience to be had despite my non denomination. I put Google translate on as the service was in Spanish and I think a little in Latin. Hmmm....I'm not sure the translation of 'keep a potato in your heart' was quite correct, nr adding Hey babe to part of it. But as Pilgrim's, we were given a blessing for safe travel to Santiago.
Tonight at dinner, I met Karlin and Eric from America. Their story is actually quite tragic. They had 3 children. One son lost his life to accidental overdose, soon after they also lost their daughter to an accidental overdose. They are carrying ashes of both children and scattering them both together at significant points along the Camino. I can not comprehend how hard this journey is for them.
I also met an Irish couple. I'm thinking I'll be avoiding walking with them. She complained constantly through dinner, about everything. Including attempting to draw people into political debates about the monarchy and brexit. Politics has no place on the Camino.

Not quite half ten here, and sleep time for me.

Steps today 34481
Distance 16.64 miles
Total distance 36.38/57.5kmRead more