The Camino Frances

So last night was a night of next to no sleep. My fitbit says 2 hrs 45. I did manage another 40 ish minutes on the last train trip so that helped.
I arrived in Saint Jean Pied de Port with excitement: at last, it felt like I was actually going to do this. (Mind that changed numerous times throughout the day!)
The forecast did not bode well with heavy rain forecast until mid afternoon.
Saint Jean is a pretty little place. Surprisingly, it does not have a real camino feel to it-as such, even finding the start point was difficult.

First stop was the Pilgrim's office to get my first stamp. (Throughout the journey, you collect stamps to show where you have been. Some are so ornate and elaborate... some are not. In order to collect a Compostello in Santiago, the requirement is that the last 100km heading into Santiago, you must collect 2 stamps minimum each day in your pilgrims credential -or pilgrims passport. They are a fun thing to look back on.
The first pilgrim I met today was a young guy from Australia. More specifically, his reply was...'oh its a small place you won't have heard of.' Well, guess what, it was Albany! The country town in West Aust where I did the country placement of my nursing training.... back well before he was even born, I hasten to add! Not sure who was the most surprised.
We parted ways as I wanted to head onto the supermarket for some supplies and something for breakfast.
After much back tracking, I finally found my way out of Saint Jean. Despite some initial light rain the weather held out. It did however cause much hilarity as I struggled to get my rain poncho on over my back pack with the poles still attached to the bag. No sooner had I finally succeeded than the rain stopped.
The trail instantly went up as I left town. It continued up, and at every turn I kept thinking it couldn't go much further and it did. It's 850 metres rise over 6.5 km to where my accommodation is.
It was a solitary walk. I did see another pilgrim at all. Most had stopped overnight in Saint Jean so had left earlier. I didn't head off till almost 12.00

The scenery was incredible. The shades of green covering the rolling contours of the hills reminded me of a large piece of green velvet draped casually over, its folds cascading down, with the light catching it reflecting the shades of light and dark.

The hill climbed on, and more than once I found myself questioning what the heck I was even doing attempting this. My knee niggled, but my feet were good. Matilda and I had ironed out any adjustments, and she sat just right with my hips taking her weight. Still I just wasn't feeling it. Perhaps a distinct lack of sleep? A distinct lack of caffeine- only one cup in the last 30 hours... yes me the 12 ish cups a day girl. Perhaps it was also the lack of company. Mind my Camino last year started the same.
The first stop was at 7.75 km. Orrison. It's one of only two accommodation options before Roncesvalles tomorrow- the second being one kilometre further on and the one where I am staying tonight.
There was a small group of pilgrims sat outside, and so I joined them for the first coffee since the airport yesterday. Michael is my age, and from USA. He's walking alone as his wife didn't want to do it. Bill and Luann- husband and wife from Michigan . Farmers in their 76th year, and Michelle from Canada in her 70s also. It was lovely chatting and swapping stories it was easy company. I'll see them again tomorrow night no doubt as we are all at the same place.
I bid them farewell to walk the last kilometre alone-with them joking that I should have stopped at Orrison, I reminded them I had a head start on them tomorrow!
The path climbed further upwards, and as soon as it turned a corner, the wind picked up-really picked up. (Blew my cap off my head kind of picked up) walking it to a head wind was no fun.
The albergue tonight is lovely. The owner purchased it as a shepherds hut and cow shed in 2019. He's done a great job of renovating it, and there are 4 of us in each room, with no bunk beds.
It's a little strange in that we had to leave our poles and boots in the room outside-that's standard practice, but we also had to leave our packs put there, and take what we wanted out of them up to our rooms in large plastic boxes. He also has rules about no drinks in the room- not even water. He charges 5 euros for the washing machine and 5 euro for the dryer. Needless to say most of us chose to handwash instead. (Standard price this year is 1-2 euros across all the listed albergues)

He is however a lovely host, and we had a good evening meal with the twelve of us sharing a sit down meal.

There are 3 other Aussies. Bronte from Melbourne who is on a gap year after study. Maria and her daughter Sheynee. They said they were from West Australia. I asked where. They said Perth. I asked where. They said Fremantle, and I laughed asking where.... how small is the world! Maria's parents lived in Palmyra where I grew up! Maria also taught enrolled nursing at Tafe in Albany!
There is Stafan (not to be called Stefan) from Finland. A German couple Bettina and I can't recall his name. Fiona from Ireland. A couple from Israel. Two sisters from Taiwan. A really good mix and we all got on well. For some it is their first Camino, and for others their eighth!
Yes a great end to the day
Breakfast is included and is at 7.00 so a lateish start by the time we finish.
The good news is tomorrow is only a climb of 600 metres, but over 16 miles.

Today
26709 steps
12.89 miles. Total distance so far 19.74 milesRead more